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Toy4x4 Mailing List Digest v1n657

Publish date: Jan 15, 1998
By: ORC STAFF
Source: Off-Road.com

Toy4x4 Digest Thu, 15 Jan 98 12:30:02 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 657
Today's Topics:
20r and weber tweaking (2 msgs)
3rd members
4-wheel parts wholesalers (3 msgs)
Cam timing-was: 20r and weber tweaking (
Coil over shocks (4 msgs)
follow up on starter problem
Front Knuckle rebuild kits
HiLux's (4 msgs)
HTML?
hub lock and knock ??s (9 msgs)
Moab 98'
Mud Tires
NWOR
NWOR springs (2 msgs)
Power steering swap
Repair Manuals (2 msgs)
Souther Nevada Land Cruisers
Stereo Post (4 msgs)
Tall Sammy and lift laws (was: hub lock and knock ??s)
TJM Bumper (2 msgs)
V6 Headgasket Recall (2 msgs)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:26:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: 20r and weber tweaking
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Okay here's the truck--'84 22r w/ 20r head, 38mm weber, big exhuast,
ect. It runs great when it's warmed up, but lately has been real
temperamental when you first start it up.
I don't know anything about webers (we just bolted it on, and got a shop
teacher to adjust it), but is there a fast idle/cold idle adjustment?
Right now, it only starts when you don't give it gas.. two cranks and it
fires to life (even in 10 degree weather) and holds a perfect
900-1000rpm for about 30 seconds then it get's really cranky. It starts
slowing way down, and idling really lumpy. Then it dies. So you gas it
and hold it. After a few minutes, you can ease off the gas, and
sometimes it'll hold a lumpy idle, other times it'll just die again.
Once the truck is warmed up (without any kind of carb or intake heaters
it does take a good ten minutes or more) it holds a perfect idle. Any
ideas how to get to fast idle when we start it, and hold this fast idle
until the carb is actually warmed up?
Also, once it's actually warmed up, sometimes it's hard to start. More
often then not it starts better without pushing the gas in first, but
sometimes you have to really pump it a lot to get it started. Over all,
it's kinda acting up.. any ideas? I'd assume the carb is still in
decent shape and clean, as it's only about 2years old.. but I dunno.
It's always been a bit temperamental when the weather isn't perfect.
Another thing I was wondering about was valve float. How do you know if
you have it? His truck has an aftermarket cam (downey says it's good
fro 1500-5000 or 5500 or something) and I'd think that between that and
the 20r head it'd actually want to rev up to 5000+.. But when you drive
it, it seams to peak around 3500-4000, and power drops off big time
after 4000. By 4500 the poor motor is screaming bloody murder and
starting to really slow down. That's as high as we've taken it (in
gear). Amazingly, it still has excellent bottom end grunt, and always
has. Any ideas why this is? Any ideas about getting it to rev higher?
_______
Jonathan Albrecht __. /_/__|__\__
albr9619@uidaho.edu __/__|\___ |_.--.__,--;
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619 :--.__|.--.|,---- ~'(__)'`(__)
`'`'`''`'`'`''``'`'`'`'`''`'`'``'`
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:20:34 -0800
From: "Michael Henry" Subject: 20r and weber tweaking
To: >Another thing I was wondering about was valve float. How do you know if>you have it? His truck has an aftermarket cam (downey says it's good>fro 1500-5000 or 5500 or something) and I'd think that between that and>the 20r head it'd actually want to rev up to 5000+.. But when you drive>it, it seams to peak around 3500-4000, and power drops off big time>after 4000. By 4500 the poor motor is screaming bloody murder and>starting to really slow down. That's as high as we've taken it (in>gear). Amazingly, it still has excellent bottom end grunt, and always>has. Any ideas why this is? Any ideas about getting it to rev higher?
Well, my 22R with the Downey cam does pretty much the same thing. I've
revved it to over 5,000 but it is definitely not happy there. Natural shift
point is somewhere around 3,600. Near as I can tell it boosts the midrange
and retains the low end at the expense of high RPM smoothness and power. I
also have found that the Weber I am running doesn't really want to breathe
well at the high RPMs. It definitely shouldn't be valve float. Depending
on what valve springs he is running, they could be stacking somewhat but I
also really doubt that. Seems to me that it is just the nature of the
Downey cam.
Michael Henry
Forestville, CA
henry@sonic.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:21:23 -0800
From: Jason Wilson Subject: 3rd members
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On my '85 are the front and rear third members exactly the same? I know
they're interchangeable, 8" and all that, but a mechanic at a local 4x4
shop said that the front one has a different model number than the rear.
Is he just full of it, or is there actually a difference between the two?
Thanks,
Jason Wilson
'85 x-cab, 33" thornbirds, 3.5" suspension lift, and other goodies.
http://www.clemson.edu/~jgwilso
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:16:12 -0800
From: Jason Wilson Subject: 4-wheel parts wholesalers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Good news!!! I found a shop a couple of miles away that said they'll
install my gears for $65 per end if I bring him the third members. I think
I'll be ordering some 4:88's from somewhere real soon. Where's the best
place to get the gears from. Four-wheel parts wholesalers told me $150 for
each end. Not bad I guess. How's their service. I've never gotten
anything from there, and I know some of you have.
Thanks,
Jason Wilson
'85 x-cab, 33" Thornbirds, 3.5" lift, and other goodies
http://www.clemson.edu/~jgwilso
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:53:50 -0600
From: John Vargas Subject: 4-wheel parts wholesalers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
65 dollars seems pretty cheap. Check their quality of work or reputation of
the shop.
As far as ordering the gears from someone, my favorite shop is Reider
Racing, ask for Anthony 1.800.522.2707. They made me a very good deal :)
150 is just for the gears you need to get the installation kit too.
Depending upon whether you go with the slim kit 30-40 to the full kit 150 -
200.
You'll need a installation kit for the front and rear.
Good luck if i can answer any questions you can email personally. As i just
set up mine.
John
At 04:16 PM 1/15/98 -0800, you wrote:>Good news!!! I found a shop a couple of miles away that said they'll>install my gears for $65 per end if I bring him the third members. I think>I'll be ordering some 4:88's from somewhere real soon. Where's the best>place to get the gears from. Four-wheel parts wholesalers told me $150 for>each end. Not bad I guess. How's their service. I've never gotten>anything from there, and I know some of you have.>>Thanks,>Jason Wilson>'85 x-cab, 33" Thornbirds, 3.5" lift, and other goodies>http://www.clemson.edu/~jgwilso> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:09:57 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: 4-wheel parts wholesalers
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 15 Jan 1998, Jason Wilson wrote:> Good news!!! I found a shop a couple of miles away that said they'll> install my gears for $65 per end if I bring him the third members. I think> I'll be ordering some 4:88's from somewhere real soon. Where's the best> place to get the gears from. Four-wheel parts wholesalers told me $150 for> each end. Not bad I guess. How's their service. I've never gotten> anything from there, and I know some of you have.
I ordered my trutracs and a rear installation kit from them. It came
quick, no hassles. I was a little perturbed that I spent nealry $1000
there in december and they still charged me $5 for their catalog, which
did not have the $10 coupon in it as promised, but other than that,
they've been pretty good.
Budget a few $$ for things like crush sleeves, etc, if you're not going to
completely rebuild it. The genuine toyota crush sleeves are quite a bit
thicker than the ones 4wpw includes in their kits, though 4wpw does use
timken bearings, which have a good reputation.
You'll also need new pinion nuts and pinion seals (or at least you ought
to, if you're gonna bother tearing the diffs apart). I suggest going to
Toyota for all of these if you don't buy a kit.
I just finished building the front diff, but still have to do the rear.
I'm using extra third members so I'll have no vehicle down-time.
The $65 is an excellent price.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 16:29:00 -0500
From: Rosenberger Bud Subject: Cam timing-was: 20r and weber tweaking (
To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}" I have pasted in 2 former posts about cam timing from this and another
list that may help.
Jonathan Albrecht wrote:>I don't know anything about webers (we just bolted it on, and got a shop>teacher to adjust it), but is there a fast idle/cold idle adjustment?
I have a book on Webers at home and I'll look at it and see if I can
help. The exact number would be helpful. I'm assuming it has an
electric choke.>Another thing I was wondering about was valve float. How do you know if>you have it?
You'll know! You don't! Basically there you are minding your own
business at between 5-9000 rpm (depending on the engine) and it all goes
mushy. Power loss and it sounds terrible. Especially if you have an
interference engine! Ouch!
His truck has an aftermarket cam (downey says it's good
fro 1500-5000 or 5500 or something) and I'd think that between that and
the 20r head it'd actually want to rev up to 5000+.. But when you drive
it, it seams to peak around 3500-4000, and power drops off big time
after 4000. By 4500 the poor motor is screaming bloody murder and
starting to really slow down. That's as high as we've taken it (in
gear). Amazingly, it still has excellent bottom end grunt, and always
has. Any ideas why this is? Any ideas about getting it to rev higher?
Did you install an adjustable cam sprocket? I think you are retarded (
your timing not you! :))) Actually, it is advanced but that wasn't as
funny!
Hope this helps!
Bud
Jim Brink Wrote:
A little-known secret amongst 22R builers is adjustment of the CAM (not
ignition) timing. For better overall performance, advancing the cam
timing approx. 3 degrees seems to be the magic number. I've found some
22Rs off as much as 3 degrees retarded from the factory--thus explaining
why some run better than others. I understand LC Engineering has a
really nice adjustable cam sprocket with a variable-adjustable keyway.
It costs about $95.00. Supposedly Toysport has them too. Last time I
checked, TRD was out of stock and did not have an ETA on when more would
be in. The others I have played with just have slots for 0 degrees
(stock) or 3 degrees adv. or ret. A friend of mine from Australia who
owns an auto repair and dyno. shop made up mine on a jig he built just
for this purpose. Seems Australians want more power out of the're 22Rs
as well. I do not know the actual horsepower/torque increases but
seat-of-the-pants driveability is noticeably improved. Remember, for
every gain, you loose something else. Advancing the cam will give you
better low-end response, hurting the top-end and vice-versa. I have not
really played with this modification with aftermarket
headers/exhaust/carburation, etc. so I can't really speak for which
combination works best. Thats your job!
Christopher P. Myer wrote:>Jeff asked about my procedure for degreeing the cam on the 2xR, so I>figured that this might be useful for others on this list. He wanted>to know if the wheel could stay mounted on the engine. Unfortunately, it>doesn't stay mounted, and it is a little bit of a pain in the butt to>install. It is, however, very important to know when the valves are>opening and closing, so it's worth the pain.>>Based on your exact setup (what accessories you have and whatnot) your>installation may be a bit different, but here's the basic rundown:>>Put the timing mark on TDC (or close to it) and make sure that the dowel>in the cam timing gear is 12:00. If it's not at 12:00, it will be at>6:00 and you'll need to turn the crank another full revolution. Always>keep in mind that the cam turns once for each two turns of the crank.>>Remove:> Fan shroud> Fan> Crank Pulley (this may turn the engine off of TDC a bit, but> that's not a big deal at this point. Just try to get it> close.)>>Install the timing wheel on the end of the crank. Note that these are>made for wimpy little crank pulley bolts (or for the 3-bolt setup of>most domestic applications) so you'll usually have to bore out the>center of the timing wheel the first time you use it. At this point>you'll have to check clearances. You want to ensure that the timing>wheel isn't hitting anything. You may have to remove accessories, add>washers, etc. to ensure that this works. Confession: I didn't want>to pulley the crank pulley off, so I had to build a big round spacer>out of 3/4" plywood. This was a lame way to do things, but it worked.>Go ahead and tighten the degree wheel down well.>>Get a piece of really stiff wire (like coat hanger wire) and cut a>piece off that is about 3" long. Put a loop in one end. You're going>to find an appropriate bolt (one of the bolts in the water pump is>usually good) and bolt this wire to the block. Put two 90 degree bends>in the wire so that the end points at 0 degrees on the timing wheel.>>Here is where it gets a bit tricky. The pointer we just made has to>point EXACTLY at 0 degrees. There are two ways to find that:>>1.) Remove the head (yes!) and use the dial indicator. This is more>labor intensive, but it is actually easier and there is less room for>error. Don't try to find TDC with the dial indicator. Find a point>that is before and after TDC and use these to extrapolate TDC. Put the>piston as close to TDC as you can and zero the dial indicator there.>Turn the crank one way until the piston is down a set amount, say .400",>and note the reading on the degree wheel. Now turn it the other way>until it goes past TDC and drops again to .400". Note this reading.>Say that you get 44 degrees ATDC for one and 36 degrees BTDC for the>other. TDC is when the marker is pointing to 4 degrees, ie, the>pointer is off 4 degrees. Turn the crank until the pointer is at 4>degrees ATDC and then move the marker until it points to 0 degrees.>Install the head and you're ready to time the cam!>>2.) Use a positive stop to identify TDC. Less labor intensive, but>since you're working "in the dark", you worry that you're doing it>right (at least I do.) The trick here is to make a positive stop that>the piston will hit and stop the movement of the engine. You can buy>these or, if you're a tightwad like me, you can make your own. Simply>take an old spark plug, bust the guts out of it (this is a pain!) and>then tap the body of the plug for a bolt. You then screw this down>into the #1 spark plug hole. The trick here is to run the bolt in to>a point that will stop the movement of the engine when you turn it over>by hand. You note that point and reverse the rotation of the engine>and turn it until it stops again. Note this reading. Say that you get>44 degrees ATDC for one and 36 degrees BTDC for the other. (Wow, this>is sounding familiar! See #1 to figure out what to do from here.) A>free hint here: Remove the cam gear from the cam so that you don't have
to>turn the cam and valve train while finding TDC.>>You can also stick the dial indicator down into a spark plug hole, but>that makes me very nervous, given the extremely shallow angle that the>spark plug on the 2xR engine intersects the top of the piston. Probably>an ideal method for a hemi-head engine like a 4AG or 3T.>>Some tips for checking the cam timing:>>a.) Check the timing on the valve keeper. Try to put the probe of the>dial indicator such that it is exactly parallel with the stem of the>valve. Check to ensure that no part of the valve train comes in contact>with the dial indicator as the valve opens and closes.>>b.) Make sure that all of the other valves are completely loosened.>This way you won't have to push all of the valves as you turn the engine>over to check the timing.>>c.) Most cam timing cards call for the valve lash to be set to exactly>0 when checking valve timing. Note that this means that your actual>lift will be a little less than what you measure.>>d.) The only thing that can ruin your whole day is if you accidentally>bump the wire marker you made and move it. Keep that in mind as you>make the marker and then again as you're turning the cam through its>rotations.>>e.) When installing and removing the cam gear, make sure that the dowel>on the piston is exactly at 12:00. Putting this gear back on scares>even experienced mechanics if they haven't installed one on a 2xR>before. You have to use leverage to pull up on the gear until the>chain tensioner collapses, giving you enough slack to slip the gear>onto the end of the cam. I use a crow bar with one of the teeth on>the hooked end broken off. It takes a lot of force, and it collapses>with a sudden "pop". To put the gear on the cam, you have to have>the two timed PRECISELY! If it doesn't slip right on, you need to>turn the cam and/or crank until they are lined up correctly. (Ok, so>that's one hand on the pry bar, one on the gear, one turning the cam,>one finger checking alignment inside the cam gear. A very understanding>spouse or significant other is invaluable at this point.)>>Dilemma of the procedure: To what do I fasten my nifty magnetic base of>my dial indicator? Heh, if you find something good, let me know so I>can use it! Since the head is aluminum, that doesn't work. If you>have a header, you can usually use the base of the header to check the>exhaust side. On the intake side, I loosened my intake manifold bolts,>slipped a big heavy carpenter's square in the opening between the>manifold and the head, and then tightened the bolts back down well>enough to hold the square firmly. This was kind of lame but I made it>work well enough.>>I hope this is helpful. I also hope that somebody saves this,>corrects any oversights, and posts it on a web site somewhere (hint>hint!)>>Christopher P. Myer
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:19:25 -0000
From: runars@isbank.is
Subject: Coil over shocks
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I Say the best way to get that sag out, and actually inprove the stock
ride, would be by getting some light duty coils, and do a coil_over
setup. That is to squize in those light duty coils between the leafs (U
bolt plate) and the chaisses.
runar> -----Original Message-----> From: Bob Bascom [SMTP:bascom@erols.com]> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 1998 3:20 AM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Re: Coil over shocks>> s0baker@usuhsb.usuhs.mil wrote:>>>> My '87 4Runner has butt sag. I have seen all the various fixes ways>> to get rid of it (new springs, blocks, shackles, add-a leafs, etc)> and>> was wondering why nobody uses the coil over type shocks. Couldn't>> you take out a leaf or two then add shocks that have the built in> coil>> over springs? You would probably have to run one of those thingies>> that keep the axle from twisting under acceleration. Any ideas>> one why nobody (at least on this list) does this? LAter>>>> Bakes>> 87 Runner> I have coil over shocks on the front of my '87 4runner. They didn't> change the ride height but they did compensate for to soft of shocks> and they helped with the body sway a little bit. I used some cheap> coil springs from pepboys.>> Ryan Bascom> '87 4runner> bascom@erols.com> TLCA# 5943
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:56:48 -0600
From: Jack Alford Subject: Coil over shocks
To: runar wrote:>I Say the best way to get that sag out, and actually inprove the stock>ride, would be by getting some light duty coils, and do a coil_over>setup. That is to squize in those light duty coils between the leafs (U>bolt plate) and the chaisses.
Putting a set of coils on top of the leafs, could definitely cure the sagging
rear end of the truck. But improving the stock ride by increasing the
overall spring rate of the rear end of the truck just can't be done as far
as I'm
concerned. Harsh rides come from spring rates that are too high, when was
the last time you heard someone claim, my truck's ride is just too soft ?
- jack
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:07:54 -0000
From: runars@isbank.is
Subject: Coil over shocks
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Well, softer ride is what they say those that put this in. I understand
it in this way.
Leafs have high friction inside. Coils have very little friction
inside. Friction in leafs increases as the pressure on them increases.
Putting in add-a-coils, releases some load from the leafs, and puts it
on the low friction coils, and therefor the improved ride.
There is more to ride than pure spring rate. Also it is common to
remove a leaf from the spring pack to even improve things, (put more
load on the coils, reduce the leafs rate).
Actually I'm only guessing here, but they do say that this improves the
ride. Even a better way is to ad propper airbags, like 600kg,
firestones.
Personly I have this coil setup, but I do have a very harsh ride. I
however consider that to be because of the thick, old and tired leafs,
including the 1/2" thick and short add-a-leafs that are there too, and
of course the long add-a-leafs, that are gone halfway up through the
leaf above them.
Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From: Jack Alford [SMTP:alford-jw@redstone.army.mil]> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 1998 2:57 PM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Coil over shocks>> runar wrote:>>>I Say the best way to get that sag out, and actually inprove the> stock>>ride, would be by getting some light duty coils, and do a coil_over>>setup. That is to squize in those light duty coils between the leafs> (U>>bolt plate) and the chaisses.>> Putting a set of coils on top of the leafs, could definitely cure the> sagging> rear end of the truck. But improving the stock ride by increasing the> overall spring rate of the rear end of the truck just can't be done as> far> as I'm> concerned. Harsh rides come from spring rates that are too high, when> was> the last time you heard someone claim, my truck's ride is just too> soft ?>> - jack
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:51:55 -0600
From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
Subject: Coil over shocks
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jack Alford wrote:>> Harsh rides come from spring rates that are too high, when was> the last time you heard someone claim, my truck's ride is just too soft ?
I hear it on a regular basis right here on this list. Too soft, too
mushy, bottoms out too easily, etc., etc.
Jeff Delzer
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:10:13 EST
From: Kconnoll Subject: follow up on starter problem
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I'd like to thank everyone for the advise I got, although I had fixed the
problem before I recieved any of your mail. It turned out to be the starter
itself, the solenoid was fine. The motor wouldn't spin at all when I hooked
it up- and was still drawing over 400 amps. I picked up a rebuilt one at
schucks for 35.00- pretty good considering Al's had the exact same starter
(rebuilding company, part #, etc) for 50.00. The guy working there said
they could match Schucks price but he would only be able to get a one year
warrenty (The Schucks one was a lifetime warrenty)
Also, for anyone who has to take your starter out in the future- The
easiest way I could find (and I tried many) is to get it with a ratchet from
underneath, using 2 3" extensions and a u joint. The bolts holding the
starter on are different, or at least mine were. There was a piece of
threaded rod with a nut on it and a real bolt. When I took the starter off
the threaded rod piece was on the bottom. After trying to get the new starter
back on, and not being able to get the top bolt started, the thought came to
me to switch these two fasteners. I threaded the rod into the top hole, hung
the starter on it, and finished with the nut and then the bolt for the bottom.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:32:49 -0500
From: "Eli Madden" Subject: Front Knuckle rebuild kits
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Brian wrote -
************************************
On a related note, does anyone know of a seal 'kit' that is fairly
inexpensive? I know NWOR has one, but for obvious reasons I'm not ordering
from them... I'm going to be doing f&r r&p's this summer, or as soon as
either poowertrax releases their electric lockers, or I get tired of waiting
for them and just put in detroits. I figure the knuckles could use to be
re-sealed at the same time, since I'll have it all apart.
- - - Brian
********************************
I believe Downey sells them for about $60. I don't have my catalog at work, but I'm pretty sure......
Eli
emadden@inacom-vt.com
'83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 13:09:39 -0300
From: Ryan Dias Subject: HiLux's
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I was wondering how a guy would go about geting a HiLux, when he (I) live
in Canada. Are there any available through the dealer (of course none on
the lot), and what are the engine options (3.4L, 2.7L, deisel). If you
cannot order one through one of the Canadian dealers, US?, abroad (ie;
Aussi)? And if it came from abroad about how much would it cost to ship it
over to N. America?
Thank you!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 07:01:45 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: HiLux's
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Fri, 16 Jan 1998, Ryan Dias wrote:> I was wondering how a guy would go about geting a HiLux, when he (I) live> in Canada. Are there any available through the dealer (of course none on> the lot), and what are the engine options (3.4L, 2.7L, deisel). If you> cannot order one through one of the Canadian dealers, US?, abroad (ie;> Aussi)? And if it came from abroad about how much would it cost to ship it> over to N. America?
Isn't Hilux just another name for the pre-tacoma pickup trucks?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:20:06 -0000
From: runars@isbank.is
Subject: HiLux's
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
No, Hilux is not a pre-tacome pickup. It is in America, where trucks
are for sport use only....hehehe..
Hilux is still in production, and for '98 there is a brand new model
(actually close to 30 of them..). The Toyota Austailia site has info on
them. The new hilux looks kind of like a mix up of the Tacoma and the
current Hilux. They have finally (unfortunatly) dumped the live front
axle alltogether, and the torsion bar setup is now standard on all
models, (live axles used to be on the low-grade diesels, as far as I
know). They also have a SR5 double cab, with electric everything, meant
for the recreational wheeler. And they aint going to sell it in the
states....! (as far as I know of, but that aint very far anyway...).
The Tacoma is made in the states ain't it?
So today Toyota line of pickups are something like
Hilux,
Tacoma,
T-100
Land Cruiser 70,
Dyna (almost a light duty truck, cab chasses design).
Not sure if the still make the HiAce with a bed.
For 4wd SUV they make
LC 80-series, to be replaced in '99 with the 100 series.
LC 90-series (Prado),
LC 7X-series Actually there used to be two series of these, the heavy
duty ones (leaf sprung, 6cyl-gas/big diesel engines), and the light-duty
one (coil sprung 4cyl gas/diesel engines).
4Runner,
FunRunner (RAV4),
And one could add the SR5 double cab to this list...
Runar, probably forgetting something...> -----Original Message-----> From: Eric Johnson [SMTP:ej@off-road.com]> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 1998 5:02 PM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Re: HiLux's>> On Fri, 16 Jan 1998, Ryan Dias wrote:>>> I was wondering how a guy would go about geting a HiLux, when he (I)> live>> in Canada. Are there any available through the dealer (of course> none on>> the lot), and what are the engine options (3.4L, 2.7L, deisel). If> you>> cannot order one through one of the Canadian dealers, US?, abroad> (ie;>> Aussi)? And if it came from abroad about how much would it cost to> ship it>> over to N. America?>> Isn't Hilux just another name for the pre-tacoma pickup trucks?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:32:47 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: HiLux's
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 15 Jan 1998 runars@isbank.is wrote:> No, Hilux is not a pre-tacome pickup. It is in America, where trucks> are for sport use only....hehehe..>> Hilux is still in production, and for '98 there is a brand new model> (actually close to 30 of them..). The Toyota Austailia site has info on> them. The new hilux looks kind of like a mix up of the Tacoma and the> current Hilux.
What I basically meant to say is that the Hilux is just another name for
the japanese-made toyota pickup; in the states you can't get 'em anymore
because they went to the US-made Tacoma, but prior to 1995 a new toyota
pickup in the US was the same vehicle sold as the Hilux elsewhere. Now,
outside the US, there were more options available, like the double-cab.
Something like 70% of all 'japanese' vehicles sold in the US are actually
built in the US, because of taxes, tariffs, etc.
And the guy who originally asked the question was in Canada, so that
further clouds the subject :)
Of course, they still make flatfender Jeeps in India. I'd love to have a
'97 CJ-3. :)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:36:24 -0600
From: John Subject: HTML?
To: Post to Toyota List I think my last few posts were in HTML. If so, I just realized it and
appologize. If not, forget I ever mentioned it;-)
John
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:43:21 -0000
From: runars@isbank.is
Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>Question Two: When it is cold and I get into my truck I often times>>hear two to four "thunks" from somewhere in the axles or springs,, my>>guess is that something is getting water on it then freezing and when>>I jump in the car the movement breaks the ice free,, has anyone else>>ever witnessed similiar sounds??>>> [-->> ] After I take off in a freesing day, there are so many crackes
and squicks that I have no way of finding out where they come from. And
it is not just in the Hilux, every automobile makes this sounds. The
whole body/chassis of automobiles flexis a little when the move, and on
freesing days it has to crack up the fressing joints.> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:32:21 -0600
From: John Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jeffrey Delzer wrote:> KIBO GROUP ARCHITECTURE wrote:>>>> 1981 4x4 long bed>>>> Question One: Is it bad to drive around for short distances>> with my hubs locked but the tranny still in two low>> It's just fine to drive all winter in 2Lo with the hubs locked. You> might see a very slight reduction in gas mileage and very slight> increase in front drive line wear, but for the sheer convenience of it,> I'd definitely recommend locking your hubs and leaving them locked till> spring. That's what I used to do when I lived there. Now, driving in 4Hi> on high traction surfaces is another story, of course.>> Do you really mean 2Lo or do you mean 2wd? Only an altered transfer case
has 2Lo. 2wd (2hi?) with locked hubs is fine. 4Lo with unlocked hubs is
not from what I've read here on the list (at least not for long periods).
John
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:38:05 -0800
From: Locke Christman Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" >1981 4x4 long bed>>Question One: Is it bad to drive around for short distances>with my hubs locked but the tranny still in two low....with the>Montana icy winter well under way I have spent the last two weeks>in and out of 4-high so much that I am getting lazy about jumping>out and un-locking the hubs.>[Locke Christman] Don't you mean Transfer case in 2 high? If I lived there>I would probably keep the hubs locked all winter, as long as all of the front>end components are in good shape and properly lubricated. This just means>that the front axles, gears, and drive line are always turning. It won't>hurt anything but could affect your gas mileage a little. Just keep it in 2>high on pavement.>>Question Two: When it is cold and I get into my truck I often times>hear two to four "thunks" from somewhere in the axles or springs,, my>guess is that something is getting water on it then freezing and when>I jump in the car the movement breaks the ice free,, has anyone else>ever witnessed similiar sounds??>[Locke Christman] Yeah, I noticed the same thing in my '80 4x4 with the>freezing rain we had here in the Portland OR area last weekend. I figured>it's just ice on suspension components.> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:57:42 -0600
From: breeze@cysource.com (Jeffrey Delzer)
Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
John wrote:>> Jeffrey Delzer wrote:>>> KIBO GROUP ARCHITECTURE wrote:>>>>>> 1981 4x4 long bed>>>>>> Question One: Is it bad to drive around for short distances>>> with my hubs locked but the tranny still in two low>>>> It's just fine to drive all winter in 2Lo with the hubs locked. You>> might see a very slight reduction in gas mileage and very slight>> increase in front drive line wear, but for the sheer convenience of it,>> I'd definitely recommend locking your hubs and leaving them locked till>> spring. That's what I used to do when I lived there. Now, driving in 4Hi>> on high traction surfaces is another story, of course.>>>>>> Do you really mean 2Lo or do you mean 2wd? Only an altered transfer case> has 2Lo. 2wd (2hi?) with locked hubs is fine. 4Lo with unlocked hubs is> not from what I've read here on the list (at least not for long periods).
You're right, John, that didn't make any sense. I did mean "2WD with the
front hubs locked." Good catch, thanks. As for 4Lo with hubs unlocked, I
don't think there's a problem with that, either. Anytime you're in Low
range you probably aren't talking about a lot of miles. A lot of hours,
perhaps, as you pick your way down a trail, but no one drives down the
highway in Low range, do they? (now someone will pipe up with a "I had a
friend once..." story. :)
Jeff Delzer
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:15:57 -0600
From: John Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Jeffrey Delzer wrote:> A lot of hours, perhaps, as you pick your way down a trail, but no one drives> down the> highway in Low range, do they? (now someone will pipe up with a "I had a> friend once..." story. :)> There was, in fact, a recent thread about this where someone related to us how
they trashed their front differential by doing this. Was it Steve C.? I don't
remember but, this should bring the culprit out of the woodwork.
John
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:54:09 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> highway in Low range, do they? (now someone will pipe up with a "I> had a>> friend once..." story. :)> Yes I have a story like that, There was this guy with a Sammy I saw at
pismo about 5 years ago it was bright yellow and lifted to the sky it
looked so great from a distance. He was parked near the beach, I just
had to go look at it. Upon closer inspection it was a big joke under
that truck. It had a huge (like 4") home made body lift, and a home made
spring over lift. It looked like the guy that welded it together was
blind, it was that bad!
He also had the most dangerously long shackles I had ever seen, they
were like 6" long. So this gave him room for his 40" tires. I asked him
what he did to solve the gearing problem (going from 27" to 40" tires is
a huge jump) he says he just doesn't use hi range any more. He just uses
low range all the time and locks the hub's if he wants 4WD and unlocks
them for 2WD. Never did see him on the dunes. The truck was so tall a
good wind is all it take to roll it over. Wish I had a camera that day
Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:02:28 -0000
From: runars@isbank.is
Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I once calculated that a stock sammy could do a maxium 55 mph in low
range (in fifth at 6500 rpm...)
However, truks like this sammy is the reason why you Yankies should
consider putting up rules on how to modify trucks. One sammy like this,
that cruises over few school kids is a very good reason to bann all
modifications....
Just my 2kr's worth...
Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From: Chris Geiger [SMTP:cgeiger@gte.net]> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 1998 7:54 PM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Re: hub lock and knock ??s>>>> highway in Low range, do they? (now someone will pipe up with a "I>> had a>>> friend once..." story. :)>>>>> Yes I have a story like that, There was this guy with a Sammy I saw at> pismo about 5 years ago it was bright yellow and lifted to the sky it> looked so great from a distance. He was parked near the beach, I just> had to go look at it. Upon closer inspection it was a big joke under> that truck. It had a huge (like 4") home made body lift, and a home> made> spring over lift. It looked like the guy that welded it together was> blind, it was that bad!> He also had the most dangerously long shackles I had ever seen, they> were like 6" long. So this gave him room for his 40" tires. I asked> him> what he did to solve the gearing problem (going from 27" to 40" tires> is> a huge jump) he says he just doesn't use hi range any more. He just> uses> low range all the time and locks the hub's if he wants 4WD and unlocks> them for 2WD. Never did see him on the dunes. The truck was so tall a> good wind is all it take to roll it over. Wish I had a camera that day>> Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:25:21 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 15 Jan 1998 runars@isbank.is wrote:> I once calculated that a stock sammy could do a maxium 55 mph in low> range (in fifth at 6500 rpm...)>> However, truks like this sammy is the reason why you Yankies should> consider putting up rules on how to modify trucks. One sammy like this,> that cruises over few school kids is a very good reason to bann all> modifications....
Oh, believe me, we have PLENTY of rules. This guy was probably violating a
half-dozen of them.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:06:31 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: hub lock and knock ??s
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
runars@isbank.is wrote:> I once calculated that a stock sammy could do a maxium 55 mph in low> range (in fifth at 6500 rpm...)
adjusted for the 40" tire size that would be about 4300 RPM's But I
don't think he had the power to drive on the freeway with all that wind
resistance. They only have a 1300cc engine.> However, truks like this sammy is the reason why you Yankies should> consider putting up rules on how to modify trucks. One sammy like> this,> that cruises over few school kids is a very good reason to bann all> modifications....> People like this give us all a bad name.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:47:13 -0800
From: "Bob Williams" Subject: Moab 98'
To: This is the place I have camped at the last two years during the Easter
J**p Safari. It's a nice place to stay. Some restrictions though. They
like to have one vehicle per camp site, you might be able to talk them into
allowing two, you might also have to pay extra. No dogs in the tent area.
No working on vehicles in park (although I needed to make some minor
repairs, and the guy that works the desk was nice enough to let me use his
shop a couple of times the week I was there). There's a place to wash pots
and pans, and best of all, hot showers and clean restrooms!
The cost in 97' was $18.00 per day, but I don't know what it will be this
year. I called them, and they are still closed for the winter, will begin
taking reservations Feb. 1st per the recorded message. Below is the
information about the camp site. There are other nice places to stay too,
I just happen to like this one. (Note, the area code for that portion of
Utah has changed since last year, it used to be 801).
MOAB VALLEY RV & CAMPARK, 1773 N. Hwy 191, Moab, Utah 84532, 435-259-4469.
Closest to Arches National Park, free cable TV, grassy tent sites, Good
Sam. 50 RV sites, 40 hookups, 55 tent sites. Open March 1 through November
1.
For more information about the whole town of Moab, (with regard to the
Easter Safari) check out http://www.4x4now.com, and go to the Moab section.
Thanks to Chris Geiger for being so kind as to prepare a list of folks who
will be going to Moab this year. I plan to arrive about mid-day on Monday,
and leave for home on Saturday morning. Hope to see a lot of you all there.
Feel free to contact me by E-mail if you have questions.
Bob Williams Las Vegas, Nevada
94 4Runner SR5, 22RE, 5Spd, 4" Procomp lift,
4.88's, lockers, Marlin Dual T-Case, BFG 33's
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:44:30 -0400
From: stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov (Stuart Banks)
Subject: Mud Tires
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Howdy all, I promise I'll shut-up about tires and just go buy some soon :)
but all the responses have been really informative, so here's another
question. The other day someone suggested that I look at Buckshots. Have
any of you'll used Buckshot Radial Mudders? How do these compare to the
Super Swamper Radials for general on and off road use? At this point I
think I will go with either the Super Swamper Radial (31 x 9.5-15) or the
Buckshot Radial Mudder (31.5 x 9.5-15 (approx.)) Thanks much.
******************************
* stuart.banks@gsfc.nasa.gov *
* Stuart Banks *
* 84 4Runner 230 K miles *
* 78 Celica 195 K miles *
* 89 MR2 115 K miles *
******************************
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:55:14 -0500
From: "Wilbur M. Yegge" Subject: NWOR
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In late response to the question about NWOR springs...all I can say is
that i put a full-size floor jack(ya know the long handled with the big
wheels) with a 12 inch block on it and slid it under the U-bolts....i
topped it out without lifting a tire..i estimate the u-bolts were at the
very least 3 feet off the ground. That cant be a very accurate measurement
of wheel travel because the leverage was being placed well inside where the
tire would contact. They do ride stiff though...not as bad as my old
Rancho's though....i will be taking two of my 4 rs5000's off the front
though. Thought my lack of swaybar would need two shocks per wheel in the
front...but it dont. Having Skyjacker 4inch rear springs probly help the
articulation some...but NWOR aint the worste spring out there...and im
counting on that stiffness to hold my new V6. And that winch im dreamin of to.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 13:28:48 -0000
From: runars@isbank.is
Subject: NWOR springs
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
The special arch in the OME is that they have a flat axle seat area.
This has something to do with not prestressing the leafs when thighting
the Ubolts. It's suposed to make the spring smoother and longer
lasting.
Also the OME springs are pre saggered, that is OME guaranties that the
lift will stay. OME are probably the highest quality leafs ever made,
but on the stiffer side I belive (havent tried them myself). Tefoln
pads between leafs, greasanble shackle pins, bla,bla...
Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From: DRM033 [SMTP:DRM033@aol.com]> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 1998 4:11 AM> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Re: NWOR springs>> In a message dated 98-01-14 19:23:11 EST, you write:>>> The Alcans and OME run more because they use more leaves>> and use a more complicated manufacturing process......such>> as the special arch OME uses in their springs.......>> When you mention special arch, do you perhaps mean when they arch the> springs,> they do not use a rounded arch, but a series of small "bends" instead?>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------> David Moore DRM033@aol.com> 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,> 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000> TLCA #5662> Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 07:41:09 -0700
From: "Jay Kopycinski" Subject: NWOR springs
To: Toyota 4x4 List DRM033 wrote:>> The Alcans and OME run more because they use more leaves>> and use a more complicated manufacturing process......such>> as the special arch OME uses in their springs.......>>When you mention special arch, do you perhaps mean when they arch the springs,>they do not use a rounded arch, but a series of small "bends" instead?
Kinda...... the OME springs are not a constant arch they have a longer
flat area in the spring at the middle of the overall arch.
Jay Kopycinski '85 Toylet (ROKTOY)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:22:44 -0800
From: Dan Merrick Subject: Power steering swap
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Kurt:
I did a power steering swap in my brother's '91 4X4.(4cylinderEFI) It was
pretty easy.
I purchased a used "kit" from Toyota Truck Recyclers in Rancho Cordova,
California. It was about $300, but this was a few years ago. The kit had a
6 month warranty, not bad for used parts!
The kit came with everything you need: pump, steering box, fluid reservoir,
fluid cooler, brackets, idler pulley, and the "add on" pulley that bolts to
the crank pulley. They even included a crusty used belt, though I would
replace all the belts when you do the swap. Don't forget that you will need
some vacuum hose, probably about 4 to 5 feet, that runs from the power
steering pump to the EFI intake manifold. This allows the EFI to raise the
idle when you are turning the wheel while idling. Find a similar truck with
power steering to locate exactly where the vacuum lines go. It makes it
much easier.
The toughest part of the installation is getting the steering input shaft
(from the steering wheel to the steering box)to the proper lenghth. There
are splined ends and u joints with pinch bolts, one near the box and one
under the steering wheel. You may need to loosen the pinch bolts at both
ends and slide the splines out a little to make the shaft the right length.
You may also have to remove the steering wheel and re-center it. Check the
bearing in the idler pulley, and if it is in questionable shape, replace
it. Check all the power steering hoses, as now is the easiest time to
replace them. Don't forget power steering fluid(or ATF)!!
Well, I am getting out of breath.. I think that was everything. There are a
few Toyota salvage yards in California that I know of, and many of them can
ship you the parts. If you want their phone #'s, email me and I'll track
them down.
Dan Merrick>Hey all I have a 92 extra (all stock), and want to install power steering>to a truck that came w/out it. what do i need to do out of the ordinary.> I know about the brackets/pump/belt, but wonder if the gear box needs>to be swapped. Also what other than a toy truck can i scavage the parts>from.> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:43:07 -0500
From: Chris Caldwell Subject: Repair Manuals
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Chris Geiger wrote:>> I have a set (one for body and one for engine) for my truck and they> are the best I have seen. For doing electrical work they cant be beat.> If the manual says the wire you are looking for is white with green then> that's what color the wire is every time (for me anyway) The only> problem is they call for special tools all the time, so I like to use> hayys manual find how to do things with out all the special tool
So Chris, are you talking about the Toyota Service manuals?
Chris Caldwell
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:02:43 -0800
From: Chris Geiger Subject: Repair Manuals
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Sorry brian fart, yes I was talking about the Toyota manuals.
Chris Caldwell wrote:> Chris Geiger wrote:>>>> I have a set (one for body and one for engine) for my truck and they>>> are the best I have seen. For doing electrical work they cant be> beat.>> If the manual says the wire you are looking for is white with green> then>> that's what color the wire is every time (for me anyway) The only>> problem is they call for special tools all the time, so I like to> use>> hayys manual find how to do things with out all the special tool>> So Chris, are you talking about the Toyota Service manuals?>> Chris Caldwell
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 08:58:22 -0800
From: joel.cooper@lvvwd.com
Subject: Souther Nevada Land Cruisers
To: If there is any one that lives in Las Vegas, NV and would like to
check out the Southern Nevada Land Cruiser Association, a member of
TLCA, we meet the second and last Wednesday of every month at Dennys
on Sahara and Rancho at 7:30pm. You dont have to have a Land Cruiser
to belong to the club just a Toyota 4 x 4. Hope to see you there.
Tell them Joel Cooper sent you.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 07:23:07 -0800
From: Chris Subject: Stereo Post
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, "cau960@airmail.net" - --------------419BBDE1BB98681795CFF39B
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit> I have A Jensen CD player w/det. face plate. When I crank it, the LED dims and> brightens w/the music. Any advice is very much apreciated.>> Same with my Alpine. I don't think it's anything you could fix. The> only thing you could do is run better wires to the stereo from the> battery. Even that won't probably help. You'll probably have to live> with it.>> Scott> --> I don't have a problem with this but I have wires comin off my batter going to my
amp, And I think I had a ohm meter and found the wire under the dash with the most
power and used that one for my stereo..........But I am not sure its been a while.
Hell I might be running my stereo off the battery.......To much of a pain in the ass
to take apart and see.
Chris Austin Jr.
- --------------419BBDE1BB98681795CFF39B
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I have A Jensen CD player w/det. face plate. When
I crank it, the LED dims and

brightens w/the music. Any advice is very much apreciated.
Same with my Alpine. I don't think it's anything you could fix.
The

only thing you could do is run better wires to the stereo from the

battery. Even that won't probably help. You'll probably
have to live

with it.
Scott

I don't have a problem with this but I have wires comin off my batter going
to my amp, And I think I had a ohm meter and found the wire under the dash
with the most power and used that one for my stereo..........But I am not
sure its been a while. Hell I might be running my stereo off the
battery.......To much of a pain in the ass to take apart and see.
Chris Austin
Jr. - --------------419BBDE1BB98681795CFF39B--
------------------------------
Date: 15 Jan 1998 08:09:38 -0600
From: "Youwer, Mark (AZ15)" Subject: Stereo Post
To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" (IPM Return requested)
DG RM125 wrote:>> I have A Jensen CD player w/det. face plate. When I crank it, the LED dims
and> brightens w/the music. Any advice is very much apreciated.
Same with my Alpine. I don't think it's anything you could fix. The
only thing you could do is run better wires to the stereo from the
battery. Even that won't probably help. You'll probably have to live
with it.
Scott
Wouldn't a capacitor fix this??
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:05:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Miami Beach Bum Subject: Stereo Post
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Same with my Alpine. I don't think it's anything you could fix. The> only thing you could do is run better wires to the stereo from the> battery. Even that won't probably help. You'll probably have to live> with it.
Lemme guess - the LED dims when the bass hits, right? Makes sense because
lower frequenies require more power, and if the LED dims in a system
without an external power amp, you're pushing the receiver to its
capacity. The only way to fix this, is to buy a more powerful amplifier
for the speakers .... you'll NEVER see your LED dim again.
I've never thought of putting a cap inline with an in-dash receiver... but
it probably would work. A cap is the way to go, but they get expensive
... for me I'd rather spend that $150 on accessories for my Toy.
But hey - if you have the cash... go for it.
- --
Doug
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:54:02 -0800
From: Derek Luymes Subject: Stereo post
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Really this has nothing to do with Toyota's except that they come with a
small alternator. You can do a couple of things.1 Get a bigger
alternator or 2 get a couple of stiffening caps, or also called
lightning caps. Your stereo demands more power when the bass hits (this
is when your deck and lights dim right) your batery puts out a steady
current but can't all of a sudden put out a large punch of it like the
stereo demands. That is why the caps are the best and cheapest bet they
are wired in close to the amp(s) and put out a burst of power when
needed. This will also make your stereo sound a lot better (no
distortion in the dash and door speakers when the bass hits.) If you
plan on making your stereo bigger and you already have this happening
get a bigger alternator the stock one may die easy, like the 2 I went
through. On a personal note I have 2 1/2 frad caps in my toy plus a high
amp alternator I also run 550 watts RMS of power through my amps, my
lights don't dim and do distortion is heard.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:06:39 -0800
From: Locke Christman Subject: Tall Sammy and lift laws (was: hub lock and knock ??s)
To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" Eric wrote:>>Oh, believe me, we have PLENTY of rules. This guy was probably violating a>half-dozen of them.> No Doubt!
I agree that we have plenty of rules regarding lifts and related mods
and I would be the last to advocate more. The problem is that the rules
that we do have (or that seem to always get proposed) are often based on
knee-jerk reactions by politicians or "concerned citizens" that don't
know what they're talking about. It would be nice if we had a uniform
set of rules that are based on knowledge of how to do lifts and other
mods correctly and safely. From what Runar has described in past posts
regarding the rules in Iceland, they may seem a bit restricting in some
ways, but they are also very well thought out, and developed based on
knowledge and a two way dialog between regulators and enthusiasts.
Just my $.02>Locke>> ------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:34:54 -0800
From: John McCool Subject: TJM Bumper
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I purchased a Downey Pre-Runner bumper and am not very satisfied with the
quality. They provide a skid plate to replace the stock one and don't cut
a hole to allow access to the oil drain plug. Also, the grille gaurd has
very poor quality welds and a poor paint quality. Installing the grille
gaurd requires removing the front tow hooks from the frame. The grille
gaurd then covers one of the tow hook mounting holes. I could drill a new
mounting hole to resolve this problem though. I guess I'm just not too
satisfied due to the lack of overall quality of the Downey components and
the oversights such as the lack of an oil draing plug access hole and the
necessity to remove my tow hooks.
I am considering sending the Prerunner bumper kit back to Downey and
purchasing the TJM bumper instead. Does anyone have any experience with
the TJM bumper? Does anyone have any experience with Downey in general?
There Prerunner bumper? I'm thinking the cool looks of the prerunner
bumper is not worth the negatives of the design flaws in the kit. Also, is
the TJM bumper going to provide more protection from impact than the stock
bumper? ( The stock bumper is still used with the Downey Prerunner bumper
kit ).
Any commments or suggestions would be appreciated.
John
97 Tacoma 4x4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:38:05 -1000 (HST)
From: Eric Johnson Subject: TJM Bumper
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Thu, 15 Jan 1998, John McCool wrote:> I purchased a Downey Pre-Runner bumper and am not very satisfied with the> quality. They provide a skid plate to replace the stock one and don't cut> a hole to allow access to the oil drain plug. Also, the grille gaurd has
Which drain plug is this? I recently pickup up a used downey prerunner
guard, and the skid plate doesn't go anywhere near any oil plugs, but this
used one may have been modified.The skid plate on mine stops at the front
end of the lower control arms.> very poor quality welds
Agreed.
Mine was full of water too. I drilled some drainage holes near the bottom.> and a poor paint quality. Installing the grille> gaurd requires removing the front tow hooks from the frame. The grille> gaurd then covers one of the tow hook mounting holes. I could drill a new> mounting hole to resolve this problem though. I guess I'm just not too> satisfied due to the lack of overall quality of the Downey components and> the oversights such as the lack of an oil draing plug access hole and the> necessity to remove my tow hooks.
I haven't installed mine yet (I'm still painting it) but at least on mine
I don't think I need to move the tow hooks. Maybe we have slightly
different verions of the guard?> John>> 97 Tacoma 4x4
oh, that explains the difference in the models we have :)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:31:19 -0700
From: Brian_Madorin@infinity.com
Subject: V6 Headgasket Recall
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
About a month ago I remember seeing a posting from someone that said it was
rumored that Toyota had come up with a new headgasket design that was
superior to the one that they have been replacing. It went on to say that
Toyota was going to put this new gasket design even in trucks that they had
already done a replacement (at no charge).
Like I said the posting said that this was a rumor.
Has anyone heard any news that this might be true?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:38:51 -0800
From: Scott Wilson Subject: V6 Headgasket Recall
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
Brian_Madorin@infinity.com wrote:>> About a month ago I remember seeing a posting from someone that said it was> rumored that Toyota had come up with a new headgasket design that was> superior to the one that they have been replacing. It went on to say that> Toyota was going to put this new gasket design even in trucks that they had> already done a replacement (at no charge).> Like I said the posting said that this was a rumor.> Has anyone heard any news that this might be true?
I haven't heard a peep. I'm having my HG done right now, so I've
talked very recently with the service writters...they didn't mention
anything of the sort to me.
Scott
- --
_____
/_/_|_\__ Scott Wilson TLCA #5261 CA4WDC #13393
| _ _ : 88 4Runner SR5 V6
*/_\---/_\' Santa Clara, CA
(_) (_) http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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