Toy4x4 Digest          Thu, 17 Apr 97 00:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 132
 Today's Topics:
 20R head on 22R block
 20R head on a 22R
 20R head on a 22r block
 20R head on a 22R block. Why?
 4Runner not starting
 ARB bull bars (2 msgs)
 Bio (3 msgs)
 Body lift or no lift?
 clicking but not starting
 Creaking pedal (4 msgs)
 Diff Breathers
 Diff drain bolt size?
 Door Adjustments
 drain plug
 Dueler ATs
 Engine swap (2 msgs)
 fallen arches
 Flat Towing
 Flywheel and PP alignment (2 msgs)
 gear ratio's
 getting off
 Getting to the 22R Oil Filter
 headers
 Hose Clamps
 Input shaft and Pilot Bearing (2 msgs)
 K&N filtercharger
 K&N Filters (3 msgs)
 Main Bearing Retainer (2 msgs)
 manual tranny strength
 O2 Sensor
 Personal Bio Info
 please cancell my subscribtion to this newsletter.
 shackle length v. lift heigth (2 msgs)
 shackles and procomp 85 4RU (3 msgs)
 shifting trouble
 Speedo Inaccuracies
 Subject: Body lift or no lift?
 Subject: Oils and changing
 Timing & Clutch (3 msgs)
 To Poly or not to Poly (4 msgs)
 torque rod (3 msgs)
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #130 (3 msgs)
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #131
 Toyota LIST (2 msgs)
 Toyota Locking Diff.
 track bar / laddar bars
 Track bar designs (3 msgs)
 tranny's
 Transmission upgrade
 Tru-Tracks or Detroit Locker
 Ventilation Noise?
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 08:54:53 -0400
 From: Michael Greenway  Subject: 20R head on 22R block
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 The 20R head is direct bolt on to a early 22R block. I have a 81 22R and it
 already had the dual timing chain. I did not have to change covers. You
 must use the 20R intake manifold and gasket but use a 22R head gasket.
 Cam is the same on both. The advantages of the 20R is the smaller
 combustion chamber (higher compression) and it flows better. If your
 compression is too high you can use a 2MM thick head gasket. You will
 need the 20R Weber adapter plate.
 Hope this helps
 Michael Greenway TLCA #3000
 76 FJ40, 81 mini, 86 4-Runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 97 10:29:07 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: 20R head on a 22R
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Well, I have done this, and yes it works well when set up properly,
 and the 20R & 22R cams have the same specs & the same part number
 from most MFGR's.   The 20R head will bolt on, use the 22R head
 gasket, the 20R intake, either exhaust gasket (same), mill .100, and
 use pre 85 pistons for max benefit.  I have the fourwheeler article
 that I scanned for someone, that I can send to anyone interested.
 (can't post it - it's copyrighted, I'm sure.)  You'll nedd an
 adjustable cam sprocket to re-gain the timing difference by the
 mlling, you'll need to grind the bracket by the distributor (to
 clear the differnet angle of the distributor)... I can give more
 details if anyone gets serious.
 - - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:45:17 -0400 (EDT)
 From: "Tim Jackson (CS)"  Subject: 20R head on a 22r block
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org> I had some questions about this too.  AFAIK 20R engines use a dual> timing> chain, right?  How does this work on later model single timing chain> motors?>> You must use the 20R's timing cover, oil pump, oil pump drive, and>> water pump.
 You can use a 22R timing cover, oil pump, oil pump drive, and water pump
 as well.>> I've seen the 20R head and it looks like it has larger intake valves.> True?>> Actually, 22R intake valves are slightly larger but 20R's can be>> modified to accept the 22R intakes.
 The valves from the 22R head are 1.5 mm larger than those from the 20R
 head.  Also, there is a slight difference in the length.  TRD says make up
 for this by machining the seat and 'sinking' the valves lower into the
 head.  They claim this makes it flow even better.
 As for the swap to 22R valves,  I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT! It makes a huge
 difference and it is not that expensive.> I had some questions about this too.  AFAIK 20R engines use a dual> timing chain, right?  How does this work on later model single timing> chain motors?
 As long as your bottom end is 85 and older......Go ahead and switch to the
 double-row timing chain.  It is a direct bolt on, lots more durable and
 just a couple of dollar more.
 I have snapped 2 single-row chains and both times I bent all but 2 of the
 valves.  Hence the project started over.....> Which intake, exhaust, and head gaskets do you use?  20r, 22r, or are> they all the same?
 You need to use the 22R head gasket to accommodate your pistons.  The rest
 are from the 20R gasket set.> If it matters this is for an '86 California 22r w/a downey header, and> Weber carb/stock intake manifold.
 For an 86' you have to be careful.  I am assuming that your 86' 22R has
 flat-top style pistons.......  If you bolt a stock 20R head on this stock
 block, the compression ratio will actually 'LOWER'.  The combustion
 chambers on the 86 -> newer style engines using flat-top pistons are much
 smaller than those from the later 22R heads.  You have to do considerable
 machining to get the ratio's backup around 9:5 or 10:1.(but it still isn't
 that expensive and well worth it)> Oh, one more thing.  If I get a chance to look for one, what cars and> trucks used the 20r?
 They put 20R's in almost everything.  Just be sure to find one with that
 has been machined to accept a mechanical fuel pump.  They used a lot of
 electrical fuel pumps on the 20R's and some of these engines had a
 block off plate where the mechanical fuel pump fits and some did not.
 my $.02
 aj
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 07:26:34 -0400 (EDT)
 From: Spinnetti@aol.com
 Subject: 20R head on a 22R block. Why?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 20 heads are a direct bolt on the 22r block. They will only work on early 22r
 motors with the double row timing chain unless you upgrade that too. The 20R
 ports are better, and the heads without the mechanical fuel pump port are
 preferred, like used on the Celica. (Using a electric fuel pump is more
 efficient). The double row timing chain setup is more durable than the single
 row. I think the 20R may have smaller chambers for slightly higher
 compression too. I have used this combo several times, and it works great,
 but its no miracle.
 Dave S.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:22:44 -0500
 From: pmadden@sulzerorthousa.com (Paul Madden)
 Subject: 4Runner not starting
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Had a similar prob. last year removed starter and brought it to a local alternator shop to have tested the counter girl  said these starters rarely go bad and it was most likely that the two copper L shaped  contacts inside the starter which the bendex plunges to contact were worn,bought the new contacts for $3-4 opened the starter and low and behold worn contacts, replaced same and it started right up. No problem ever since. Hope this helps.
 PGM
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 15:58:35 -0400
 From: "Chad Daniel Zimmer"  Subject: ARB bull bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Does anyone have the ARB bumper? How do you like it and how hard was it to
 install.  i.e. did everything fit or did you have to do some grinding and
 welding.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:16:12 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: ARB bull bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Does anyone have the ARB bumper? How do you like it and how hard was it to> install.  i.e. did everything fit or did you have to do some grinding and> welding.
 I have TJM bumper that is similar to the ARB, I like it and it works well
 for me. It took me 2 hours to install and was easy to do. You can see
 pictures of it on my web page.
 Chris Geiger '93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offorad.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 16:40:21 -0300
 From: sscrawf@nbnet.nb.ca (sscrawf)
 Subject: Bio
 To: Toy4x4 >Personal Bio Info>>POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org>+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>>Name:>>City & State:>>Country:>>E-mail address:>>Toyota (s) year & model:>>Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):>>Age:>>Occupation:>>Marital Status:>>Hobbies:>>How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:>>General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:>> Thank you for information sent but please remove me from the mailing list
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 19:01:35 -0600
 From: "ARTHUR RUMPF"  Subject: Bio
 To: "Toy4x4"  - ----------> From: Toy4x4-Request > To: anrumpf@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Bio> Date: Sunday, April 13, 1997 9:47 PM>> Personal Bio Info>> POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>> Name:Art Rumpf>> City & State:Albuquerque, NM>> Country:USA>> E-mail address:anrumpf@worldnet.att.net>> Toyota (s) year & model:1982 SR5 4X4>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):>> Age:45>> Occupation:Electronics Tech>> Marital Status:M>> Hobbies:Four Wheel Drives>> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:Off-Road.Com>> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:Vehicle: 4.56 gears,
 31x11.50x15 tires, air locker (rear only), aftermarket turbo, 1987 tranny
 and transfer. Just bought a 1985 22RE FI motor (needs rebuilding). Future
 plans: Lift kit, marlin crawler, taller tires new engine. Also have 1976
 F-150 4X4, 1978 and 79 jeep wagoneers. Ford and one jeep have holley
 projection kits (great stuff). Most four wheeling in NM and CO with one
 trip over the Mormon Trail in Utah. Have lots of experience wrenching. I do
 all my own work. Hope to stop wrenching and start four wheeling agin this
 summer.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 22:12:58 -0700
 From: "Chad"  Subject: Bio
 To: "Toy4x4"  - ----------> From: Toy4x4-Request > To: chad@whidbey.net> Subject: Bio> Date: Wednesday, April 16, 1997 08:57>> Personal Bio Info>> POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>> Name:Chad Jones>> City & State: WA>> Country:>> E-mail address:chad@whidbey.net>> Toyota (s) year & model:'79 Land Cruiser FJ40>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):Y, haven't received my # yet.>> Age:21>> Occupation:Child Care provider>> Marital Status:Single all the way>> Hobbies:Rollerblading, Snowboarding, Bowling, and WHEELIN' of course>> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:TLCA>> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:> ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 08:59:29 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Body lift or no lift?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Oh yeah, if you do plan to go for that setup, and a suspension lift, make> sure that it will work with stock rims.  Rancho and the superlift> superlink are the only two I know of that do (as I said before).
 I have a pro comp lift and it works with the stock wheels but there is no
 room for snow chains in front.
 Chris Geiger '93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 08:14:54 -0400 (EDT)
 From: BCSTOY@aol.com
 Subject: clicking but not starting
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Just a recap on starting related problems:
 Three things are related to clicking without cranking:
 i)- battery terminals/battery and its cables.
 ii)- starter and its solenoid (connections and internal conditions of the
 starter/sol).
 iii)- ignition switch and its connections.
 iv)- Safety cancel/neutral safety switches.
 These conditions tend to happen in that order that is (i) is more common than
 (iii).
 Possible causes to (i);
 battery is weak, its connections are corroded or the connections at the
 starter are
 corroded. It is also possible that the cables inside have created that white
 stuff thus
 preventing the current from reaching the starter. If yout truck have fusible
 links you
 should check its connections also and touch the terminals/cables to see if
 they are
 hot.
 Given that (i) is not causing the problem:
 weak starters tend to just click particularly when they get hot. Most of the
 time
 it is related to a weak solenoid. This is attached to the starter and makes
 the drive
 pinion engage to the flywheel so cranking can take place. Remember also that
 weak connections at the started will make it appear as if you have a bad
 battery
 or a bad starter that's why you must make sure that things in (i) are not
 messing
 things up. The solution here is to replace the starter because the solenoid
 is
 expensive.
 If after inspection neither (i) or (ii) are causing the problem, go to (i):
 At the steering wheel the ignition switch has all the connections for starter
 (white/
 black wire) ignition (yellow wire) , accesories (white wire). Sometimes the
 whole
 black assembly where the wires attach to gets loose so it could cause
 problems,
 in which case you could bypass the switch and manually touch the wires to see
 if the truck will start easily (DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU HAVE PROBLEMS
 IDENTIFYING THE WIRES, AND ALWAYS CHECK YOU MANUAL TO MAKE
 SURE YOU KNOW WHICH WIRES ARE FOR STARTER AND IGNITION).
 Also, check you fuses to make sure that the wires that power the circuits for
 igntion and starter are ok.
 As I said before, keep in mind that (i) and (ii) are the more common causes
 of clicking but not starting.
 I have had some weird cases where a starter will pass a bench test however
 when
 is under load and in the vehicle will not crank it at all. This is due to the
 fact that
 electrical components will work fine until they get hot.
 One more thing for those that have a safety cancel switch is this switch is
 defective
 it may not allow the truck to start in which case you will need to bypass
 this switch
 too. If your truck has an auto tranny a deffective neutral safety switch will
 also
 prevent the truck from starting.  So make sure that you can take a continuity
 test
 on these components. To identify the wires feeding these switches follow your
 wiring
 diagram.
 Hope this does not confuse you'll more.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:06:24 -0700
 From: Frank Di Giovanni  Subject: Creaking pedal
 To: Toyota 4X4 Mailing List  Lately when I push the clutch pedal in to shift gears and then let out the
 clutch, it seems to make a creaking noise, like the spring under the dash
 is dry or something. I put more lube on it but it did not do anything.
 Anybody know what is going on? Thanks in advance, Frank
 _______________________________________________________
 Frank Di Giovanni             shoalseeker@geocities.com
 http://www.geocities.com/Baja/1228/pics.html
 1990 Toyota  4 Runner  SR5  V6  4X4   2dr.
 BFG All-Terrains,Trailmaster Invader sk,Warn combo winch bumper,
 Smittybuilt nerfbars, k&n air filter, Hi-lift jack, cb radio, wilson antenna,
 Aurora ignition, differental breathers
 ________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:44:46 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: Creaking pedal
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Lately when I push the clutch pedal in to shift gears and then let out the> clutch, it seems to make a creaking noise, like the spring under the dash> is dry or something. I put more lube on it but it did not do anything.> Anybody know what is going on? Thanks in advance, Frank
 Mine used to do this too.  It went away after I put in a new clutch,
 changed out the master cylinder and greased the pivot for the clutch
 pedal.  Oh, btw, you don't need to be worried, the creaking noise itself
 doesn't mean the clutch is going out or anything.
 __
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:48:19 +0100
 From: Earle Rother  Subject: Creaking pedal
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>Lately when I push the clutch pedal in to shift gears and then let out the>clutch, it seems to make a creaking noise, like the spring under the dash>is dry or something. I put more lube on it but it did not do anything.>Anybody know what is going on? Thanks in advance, Frank>>_______________________________________________________> Frank Di Giovanni             shoalseeker@geocities.com> http://www.geocities.com/Baja/1228/pics.html> 1990 Toyota  4 Runner  SR5  V6  4X4   2dr.> BFG All-Terrains,Trailmaster Invader sk,Warn combo winch bumper,> Smittybuilt nerfbars, k&n air filter, Hi-lift jack, cb radio, wilson antenna,> Aurora ignition, differental breathers>________________________________________________________> Frank,
 I think I have the same problem - It is almost like a poping sound on mine.
 I know it is near the clutch master cylinder. I have rotated the push rod
 from the clutch to the cylinder - this solved the problem for about 2 weeks
 now it's back. I also have tried the lube method to no avail.
 Earle Rother
 ewr@appsig.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 17:32:01 -0400
 From: Ed Ruf  Subject: Creaking pedal
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 01:48 PM 4/16/97 +0100, you wrote:>I think I have the same problem - It is almost like a poping sound on mine.>I know it is near the clutch master cylinder. I have rotated the push rod>from the clutch to the cylinder - this solved the problem for about 2 weeks>now it's back. I also have tried the lube method to no avail.
 I found the popping sound to be caused by the dust boot on the end of the
 master cylinder. The cure was a little white lithium grease similar lube on
 the rod were it goes through. This will let the slip through the boot,
 without the boot distorting in and out, which is what is causing the
 popping sound.
 Ed Ruf   (egruf@visi.net)
 1986 Toyota 4x4 SR5 PU @ 122K, 3.5" Rancho susp. lift, RS-7000's, 31x10.5
 BFG-A/T, K&N
 1987 Toyota SR5 4Runner @ 118K, KYB GasSprings, 30.5x9.50 Cooper Disc.
 1982 Honda XL600R Thunderin' Thumper
 1986 Yamaha FJ-1200SC @ 15K
 2 yr old, 110#, pure bred white GSD, Kaiser Klaus III, AKC# DL569628/04
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:44:11 -0700
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Diff Breathers
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  john skaggs wrote:> To anyone that may be doing the Diff Breather changeover, using Ni$$an
 parts.> Here in Ohio there is not a very large selection of Japanese junk yards> (see they do last longer), so I went to the dealer for the part, I had a
 hard> time finding a person at the counter that was smarter than the counter:-)> But ayway here is the part # 38323-C6010.  These fit perfectly, on my 85
 4Runner> solid axle.  Don't know about IFS.> Hope this can help someone.>> Oh, the price for these was $ 4.00 each
 John, I finally picked up those parts, and was pleased the see that they
 definitely fit correctly (at least in the rear axle, haven't tried the
 front.
 I have a  monthly section called 'Cheap Tricks' on the 4runner pages at
 off-road.com. For next month or the month after I think I'm going to put
 together a full instruction set for making some cheap diff breathers, using
 that part and the VW filters that I think Jack Alford came up with,
 complete with pictures, etc. If its ok with you, I think I'll give credit
 to you and Jack for the idea...
 - --
 - -- ej@blarg.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: 16 Apr 1997 08:29:18 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Diff drain bolt size?
 To: "Eric Johnson" , "Toyota 4x4 List"  Subject:                              Time:  8:30 AM
 OFFICE MEMO         Diff drain bolt size?                 Date:  4/16/97
 Eric Johnson  wrote:>After changing my engine oil (and imitating Hazelwood in my garage) I went>to change the oil in my rear diff last night and begin work on a breather>(using the Nissan parts that John Skaggs told us about) when I realized>that I don't have a wrench or socket large enough for the drain plug.>>How big is that thing? Must be 25 or 26mm (hmm... 1" maybe?). Even my big>22mm torsion bar wrench wasn't big enough. Anyone know offhand what size>socket I'll need?
 The ones on my truck are 24mm. I use a 15/16" six point socket on it.
 _____________________________________________
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 Gilbert, AZ
 ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
 http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
 Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club            TLCA #3243
 _____________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:08:12 -0400 (EDT)
 From: TXPakRat@aol.com
 Subject: Door Adjustments
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Chris,
 I had one of the doors adjusted on my Runner right after I bought it new
 in '90.  I believ that the door can be adjusted a slight amount by the hinges
 and the striker.  I was told that the hinges have a little play in they to
 allow for adjustment.  You might try supporting the door (open of course!)
 and loosen the hinges.  You could then try to adjust them in the direction
 needed and retighten.  The striker also has some room for adjustments.
 Again, this is what was explained to me my the people (dealership) who did
 the adjustment, so I could do it myself in the future if needed.
 Bob
 Pack Rat
 TXPakRat@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 17:46:17 -0500
 From: Steve Capuano  Subject: drain plug
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>> NRA lifetime member>>(good for you! I'm still on the year-by-year plan)>-->>- ej@blarg.net>>> Trust me we need alot more responsible gun owners to register with the NRA.
 Keeps us separate from the Communist Dictatorships.
 Steve Capuano
 capuano@hypercon.com
 NRA lifetime member
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 17:39:42 +0000
 From: David Booth  Subject: Dueler ATs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The other day someone mentioned that in their experience the Dueler
 ATs did better in the mud than the BFG ATs.  I'm in the market for new
 31x10.50s right now and can't decide.  I've had both tires before and
 they both seemed to work just as well in the desert around Moab.  I
 haven't driven the BFGs in deep snow or mud so I don't know how they
 compare to the Duelers.  Mepco told me that they feel the Dueler AT is
 a better tire for Moab than the BFG AT.
 Does anyone else have experience or an opinion to add?  Thanks!
 ------------------------------
 Date: 16 Apr 1997 09:36:39 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Engine swap
 To: "Toyota 4x4 List"  Subject:                              Time:  8:36 AM
 OFFICE MEMO         Engine swap                           Date:  4/16/97
 kristjan@hugvit.is wrote:
 snip>If I install a small block onto the IFS can I>strengthen it or do I need to go for a straight>axle swap?>>Is the 7.5" fron diff strong enaught for the engine.>I've got 5.29:1?
 I'd be worried about blowing up the ring gear.
 You have three negatives against you here.
 Large tires
 7.5" (weaker) gear set
 5.29:1 (weaker) gears>Can I use the toy power strearing?
 Yes, the Toy box will work. You can use either pump as well.>Can I use the toy brakes?
 Yes, just plump in the vacuum assist to the V8 intake.
 _____________________________________________
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 Gilbert, AZ
 ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
 http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
 Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club            TLCA #3243
 _____________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:42:55 MST7MDT
 From: "Alan Anderson"  Subject: engine swap
 To: kristjan@hugvit.is, Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Date: Tue, 15 Apr 1997 11:29:34 +0000
 From: kristjan@hugvit.is
 Subject: Engine swap
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I've finally had it with the 22RE engine.  I wan't
 more power.   As I see it I have two choices,
 22RE+turbo or a bigger engine.  I've tested a identical
 car to mine, which is 92 double cab, with a vortex 4.3
 v6 but I wasn't happy with the torque and how i worked
 on the lower rpm's.  I have located a chevy 1976 350
 from a blaser and it's supposed to work well.  Some
 questions came up and I was wondering if u guys could
 help me out.
 Has anyone tested the NWOR V8 kit to install a small
 block chevy with the toy 5 speed transmission?
 No, but I have the Advanced Adapters kit in my '85 toyota SR5
 If I install a small block onto the IFS can I
 strengthen it or do I need to go for a straight
 axle swap?
 As a rock crawler I would say to go for a straight axl swap
 but on an IFS truck it is not nessesary, you do however need a
 2-3in. suspension lift
 Is the 7.5" fron diff strong enaught for the engine.
 I've got 5.29:1?
 I have had no problems with mine
 Can I use the toy power strearing?
 yes, you can make brackets for the toy power steering pump or you can
 remove the toy "flare-nut" on the steering box end of the pressure
 line and put it on the chevy line with a new 23 degree flare on the
 end of the hose th hold it there and to seal the joint
 Can I use the toy brakes?
 yes
 Thanks in advance.
 no problem, if you have any more Q's ask me!
 kf
 (__)
 (oo)  Kristjan Finnsson, Software Engineer
 /-------\/   Hugvit hf, Skutuvogi 1A, IS104 Reykjavik
 / |     ||    Tel: +354 5688070, Fax: +354 5888057
 *  ||----||    kristjan@hugvit.is
 ^^^^    ^^^^
 Nice drawing!
 - ------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 15:22:54 -0400
 From: "Chad D. Zimmer"  Subject: fallen arches
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I noticed that the right side rear of my 89 pickup sits 1 - 1.5 inches
 lower than the left side rear. I assume that my spring is sagging from
 age, a camper shell, and from hard wheelin. What can I do to level it
 up? Would add-a-leafs help cure the problem or should I go the boneyard
 and find some used springs. I don't want to buy new springs because I
 plan on lifting it in the future and don't want to waste my money.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 00:28:34 -0700
 From: "Michael Medart"  Subject: Flat Towing
 To:  I was flat towing my '88 X-Tra Cab last weekend
 behind our motorhome when a friend noticed that
 the front driveshaft was turning (man. hubs, unlocked).
 When I flat tow it I always put the tranny in neutral and,
 because there's no *marked* neutral on the transfer
 case lever I put it where I've seen "N" marked on other
 Toys, between "4-Hi" and "4-Lo", confirmed by putting
 it in gear and letting out the clutch.
 When I got home I tried putting the transfer case
 back in "2-Hi" and just the tranny in neutral and of
 course, the front driveshaft didn't spin at all.
 My question:  With the #1 priority of transfer case
 longevity and the #2 priority of minimal front end wear,
 which would be the best tranny/transfer way to flat
 tow?
 Also, is it just my imagination, or are my *SECOND*
 set of Downey rear springs sagging too?  And way too
 soon, I might add...
 Anybody have experience with National Springs in regards
 to their durability and suspension travel, and of course,
 price?
 Thanks in advance...
 __________________________________________
 Michael Medart, Ventura, CA bigblue@anacapa.net
 1988 Toyota 4x4 X-Tra Cab V-6, Rancho/Downey
 lift, 4.88 gears, Detroit E-Z locker, ARB Air Locker
 Rancho RS 9000's w/remote, Con-Fer shackles/
 skid plates and roof rack, 33" BFG Muds. RTI: 651
 __________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 19:03:52 +0000
 From: sbever@jeffnet.org
 Subject: Flywheel and PP alignment
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  My Haynes manual says something about marking the PP and the flywheel
 to ensure alignment (22RE).  Is this only if reusing the worn clutch?
 When installing a new PP and Disc on a turned flywheel, as long as I
 line up the dowels, I can't imagine it matters which of the three
 holes go to any of the 3 dowels, does it?
 Scott
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 23:11:18 -0700
 From: James Brink  Subject: Flywheel and PP alignment
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 sbever@jeffnet.org wrote:>> My Haynes manual says something about marking the PP and the flywheel> to ensure alignment (22RE).  Is this only if reusing the worn clutch?
 Used only when removing the clutch for other service.>> When installing a new PP and Disc on a turned flywheel, as long as I> line up the dowels, I can't imagine it matters which of the three> holes go to any of the 3 dowels, does it?
 You got it.
 - --
 Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
 brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
 Stock 4.10 gears
 Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 19:20:55 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: gear ratio's
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Does anybody know the gear ratio's of a 5spd in a 1986 22r toy p/u?  I'm
 mostly curious about 5th.
 Thanks,
 __
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 23:11:18 -0400 (EDT)
 From: BCSTOY@aol.com
 Subject: getting off
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 One more trick besides the bolts buy a $20.00 gas torch at home depot heat
 the drum up and with the 12 mm bolts bolted on the drum it should come off
 May be now you don't need the bolts anymore just a ball pen hammer.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 08:32:19 -0400
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Getting to the 22R Oil Filter
 To: "        -         (052)toy4x4 (a) tlca.org" ,
 Seth:
 This may be stating the obvious - but there is an "access" panel
 in the pass side wheel well.
 Take out the two 10mm bolts and "flip" the panel down - you
 dont need to take off the rubber flap.
 Use a "cap" style filter wrench (I assume that you have a stock filter,
 A/C, and stock type tyres (235/75R15)) and a LONG
 extension and remove the filter from the engine.
 I think a u joint swivel helps here too.
 EWon
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 22:17:04 -0500
 From: bmonster@dkeep.com
 Subject: headers
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Does anyone have any preferance between the Downey 4-1 header and the
 NWOR tri-y.  They both claim to be the best, but I was hoping that
 someone out there has some experiance with them.
 bmonster@dkeep.com
 /**********************************************************/^M/* Bmonster                                               */^M/* bmonster@dkeep.com                                     */^M/*                                                        */^M/* Sent from Dragon Keep                                  */^M/**********************************************************/^M=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 Dragon Keep International * (352)375-3500 * dkeep.com * http://www.dkeep.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 08:55:50 -0400
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Hose Clamps
 To: "        -         (052)Toy4x4 (a) tlca.org"  Michael Rowe wrote:
 I popped it off and the clamps were marginally tight. I
 guess the hose shrank with time/heat where it slipped over the tee. I
 tightened it and viola...no more gurgling.
< The input shaft on my 5 speed '88 4Runner (22RE 4Cyl) seems slightly
 worn where it mated to the pilot bearing. Is this normal at 150,000
 miles or should this be sleeved, or machined, or replaced (ouch)?
 I am hoping it can just be put back together...but I can't imagine it
 spinning in the bearing is good, as the bearing is the thing that is
 supposed to spin....
 Will it howl? Should I lube it or leave it dry (as factory
 recommends)?
 Scott
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 23:19:20 -0700
 From: James Brink  Subject: Input shaft and Pilot Bearing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 sbever@jeffnet.org wrote:>> The input shaft on my 5 speed '88 4Runner (22RE 4Cyl) seems slightly> worn where it mated to the pilot bearing. Is this normal at 150,000> miles or should this be sleeved, or machined, or replaced (ouch)?>> I am hoping it can just be put back together...but I can't imagine it> spinning in the bearing is good, as the bearing is the thing that is> supposed to spin....>> Will it howl? Should I lube it or leave it dry (as factory> recommends)?>> Scott
 Scott,
 As long as there are no big gouges in the input shaft, do not worry.
 Does the new pilot bearing fit well on the input or does it cock from
 side to side? If the fit is good and the splines on the input are not
 damaged, there should be no reason for concern.  I like to put a LIGHT
 coat of grase on the shaft end where the pilot rides. No need to pack it
 with grease.
 Have Fun!
 - --
 Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
 brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
 Stock 4.10 gears
 Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 15:16:51 -0700 (MST)
 From: Eric Madsen  Subject: K&N filtercharger
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Wed, 16 Apr 1997, Jack Alford wrote:>> I installed the K&N FilterCharger.  I'm very pleased.  I noticed huge> improvement in responsiveness.  The one thing that concerns me with it is> water being sucked into the engine.  I took it through brushless car was> that sprays the undercarriage and stuff and thought about getting water> into the engine prior so I kinda drove fast over the spray and then I shut> down once I was in position in the car wash.  I drove out when it was> finished and checked under the hood.  It was wet inside the engine> compartment around the filtercharger cone.  I don't go through car washes> anymore.  I don't drive through streams or rivers (as of yet) except when> the roadways out here in Western Washington get overtaken by flooding:-(.> But this is the only negative aspect I've noticed about the K&N.
 This may or may not affect performance, but with the open filtercharger
 setup, you are taking in hotter air from the engine compartment.  The
 stock setup takes in cooler air from outside.  That's another potential
 shortcoming.
 eric
 Eric Madsen, Applications Engineer
 Pacific Numerix Corporation
 7333 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd #280, Scottsdale, AZ 85258
 Phone: (888) PNC-2121 | Fax: (602) 483-8526
 E-mail: eric@pnc.com | Web: www.crl.com/~pacnum/pnc.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 06:05:32 -0700
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: K&N Filters
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Frank Di Giovanni wrote:> I'm sorry Jack I have to disagree. Up here in Canada a yoda filter ia $20> can. for the V6, replacing it 2 times a year( for dirt roads) it works out> to $40 not including taxes. A  K&N filter was $49 Can. when I bought it 1.5> years ago, and I have washed it twice now and reoiled it. I'll probably use> it for the life of the truck. Does anybody know how long the filters last> before they deteriorate (sp) ?
 Yes, I believe they have a 100,000 mile warrenty.
 Scott
 - --
 Scott A. Wilson            __o          __o          __o         __o
 Santa Clara, CA          _'\<,_       _'\<,_       _'\<,_      _'\<,_
 swilson@pacbell.net     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)    (_)' (_)
 http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:25:03 -0400 (EDT)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: K&N Filters
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Wed, 16 Apr 1997, Scott Wilson wrote:> Frank Di Giovanni wrote:>>> I'm sorry Jack I have to disagree. Up here in Canada a yoda filter ia $20>> can. for the V6, replacing it 2 times a year( for dirt roads) it works out>> to $40 not including taxes. A  K&N filter was $49 Can. when I bought it 1.5>> years ago, and I have washed it twice now and reoiled it. I'll probably use>> it for the life of the truck. Does anybody know how long the filters last>> before they deteriorate (sp) ?>> Yes, I believe they have a 100,000 mile warrenty.
 Actually, I think it is 1,000,000 miles.
 Dr. Karl Bellve
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 17:43:18 -0500
 From: Steve Capuano  Subject: K&N Filters
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 06:05 AM 4/16/97 -0700, you wrote:>Frank Di Giovanni wrote:>>> I'm sorry Jack I have to disagree. Up here in Canada a yoda filter ia $20>> can. for the V6, replacing it 2 times a year( for dirt roads) it works out>> to $40 not including taxes. A  K&N filter was $49 Can. when I bought it 1.5>> years ago, and I have washed it twice now and reoiled it. I'll probably use>> it for the life of the truck. Does anybody know how long the filters last>> before they deteriorate (sp) ?>>Yes, I believe they have a 100,000 mile warrenty.> Hey all, its a MILLION mile warranty!!!
 Steve Capuano
 capuano@hypercon.com
 NRA lifetime member
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 18:43:45 +0000
 From: sbever@jeffnet.org
 Subject: Main Bearing Retainer
 To: Toyota 4x4 List  As there is no gasket between the main bearing retainer and the oil
 pan (88 4Runner, 22RE), is permatex Hi-temp Black the right thing to
 use to seal it up?  Any tricks?
 Thanks,
 Scott
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 23:14:18 -0700
 From: James Brink  Subject: Main Bearing Retainer
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 sbever@jeffnet.org wrote:>> As there is no gasket between the main bearing retainer and the oil> pan (88 4Runner, 22RE), is permatex Hi-temp Black the right thing to> use to seal it up?  Any tricks?>> Thanks,>> Scott
 I use either the Fel-Pro RTV for gasket-less flanges or the Toyota FIPG
 (Formed-In-Place-Gasket) maker. The latter is available from the dealer
 and works great for most applications where a gasket is not used.
 - --
 Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
 brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
 Stock 4.10 gears
 Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 15:49:26 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Chris Willoughby  Subject: manual tranny strength
 To: list Toyota4x4  I hear you on the 79 to 83 tranny, I had mine rebuilt 50k miles ago, and
 already it is making horrible bearing noise that goes away only when
 placed in 4th gear.  I have heard its because there is a large force
 directed out of the transmission on the input shaft bearing while in 1st to
 3rd and 5th gears, and that this causes abnormally fast wear on the input
 shaft bearing.  I am at a loss as what to do to correct this problem, I
 would like to put a newer model tranny 84 and newer, and not throw $600
 down just to rebuild a poorly designed tranny that will wear out in a
 year or two.  Maybe my only option is to fix the tranny and sell my 82,
 and buy an 85 (want to still have solid axle)  The 5 sp tranny cant
 handle a 22R, and DEFINITELY NOT A V6 or V8!!!!!!!!!!, put in a domestic
 tranny!!!
 +=========================================================================+
 |     Chris H Willoughby                          ________                |
 |	Center for Neotectonic Studies                /\  \____________   |
 |	Mail Stop 169                                   \  \  \           |
 |	University of Nevada, Reno                OoOooOOooO\  \/         |
 |       Reno, NV 89509                                       \ooOoOOOoo   |
 |	  (702)323-7346 (h),  (702)784-1764 (o)   ............\           |
 |							       \.......	  |
 |       email:	   chrisw@seismo.unr.edu                                  |
 |	website:   http//:www.seismo.unr.edu/neotectonics/Willough.html   |
 +=========================================================================+
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:23:11 -0400
 From: djstracher@bbn.com (David Stracher)
 Subject: O2 Sensor
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>David Stracher wrote:>>>> Just brought my 93 Forerunner 3vz in for a new short block due to damage>> caused by a blown head gasket. While the car was at the dealer, I figured I>> would have them put in a new O2 sensor. The manual calls for replacement at>> 80,000 miles and the owner manual clearly states that Toyota would do this>> for free (parts and labor).>>>> The dealer claims that this only applies in California (even though the>> manual clearly states "except CA"). Although, they have stated that they>> would check with Toyota USA>>>> Has anyone had any experience with this? Is there a TSB or some other memo>> I can steer the dealer towards.>>>> Any help would be appreciated.>>>> Thanks in advance,>>>> Dave Stracher>> djstracher@bbn.com>>>No TSB on this subject, just show them your Owner's Guide/Maintenance>Booklet. It says so right there (I believe there is even a listing in>the table of contents--"Free oxygen sensor replacement." California has>different requirements for emissions control device warranties,>depending on wether the vehicle was originally certified for 50, 70, or>100,000 mile durability standards.>--
 Jim Brink and Scott Wilson ---
 Thanks for your input on this. I showed the dealer the owner's manual and
 they claim that I was the first one to ever bring it to their attention. I
 ended up calling Toyota USA to find out the scoop. They clearly statedd
 that Toyota policy is to replace the O2 sensor free at 80K. They put a note
 to the dealer in my car's history computer file that get's downloaded to
 the dealer nightly. (you already knew that Jim:))
 I was curious about the "except California" notation, but Jim you were
 right on top of that.
 Thanks,
 David Jay Stracher
 Systems Engineer
 BBN Corporation
 (617)873-2353  (Phone)
 (617)873-4523  (Fax)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 21:15:04 -0700
 From: Nick Munson  Subject: Personal Bio Info
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Name: Nick Munson
 City & State: Sacramento, CA
 Country: USA
 E-mail address: norcalnm@gvn.net
 Toyota (s) year & model: 1997 Tacoma Extended Cab
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?): N
 Age: 52
 Occupation: Programmer/Analyst
 Marital Status: Divorced
 Hobbies: Camping, Fishing, Prospecting, Computing.
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List: From a friend
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.: New Tacoma is stock except for
 shell. I pull a small tent trailer with it. Not into drastic off road, just
 what I can get to with the stock machine.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 22:24:26 -0700
 From: Gary L Lundquist  Subject: please cancell my subscribtion to this newsletter.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 23:31:43 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: shackle length v. lift heigth
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-04-16 16:12:38 EDT, you write:>>  I'm not sure.  If you lengthen the shackle, then the truck raises up about>  1/2 the additional length of the shackle.  And the shackle (and end of the>  spring) are 1/2 the additional length of the shackle lower than before.>  Right?>>  I figure 2" longer shackle raises frame about 1" higher.  So the end of>  the shackle, being 2" longer will sit 1" lower.>  __>  Jonathan Albrecht
 The lift not being equal to the change in shackle length is due to the fact
 that the shackle sits at an angle.  There is no change in the force applied
 to the spring (at rest), so the spring is not changing position.  There may
 be some leveraging factors I am missing, but that is pretty much it.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 23:12:49 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: shackle length v. lift heigth
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I wrote:>>  I figure 2" longer shackle raises frame about 1" higher.  So the end of>>  the shackle, being 2" longer will sit 1" lower.
 David countered:> The lift not being equal to the change in shackle length is due to the fact> that the shackle sits at an angle.
 No, I think it's because the front end of the spring is just a pivot, and
 the axle is attached in the center of the spring, not at the end of it.
 Draw it up on paper--it makes sense.  If you'd like I can draw up a quick
 .bmp> There is no change in the force applied to the spring (at rest), so the> spring is not changing position.  There may be some leveraging factors I> am missing, but that is pretty much it.
 Right, not really any more force on the spring (asside from minor
 increases from the different angle/position of the spring).
 I still feel that if you lift a truck with a 2" longer shackle, the truck
 isn't lifted a full two inches.  It may not be exactly 1/2 that, but it
 will only be about 1-1.3" higher.  If the shackle is at roughly the same
 position (nearly perpendicular to the ground), and is 2" longer than
 stock, but the truck only sits 1-1.3" higher...the bottom end of the
 shackle has GOTTA be lower.
 I'm pretty sure of myself on this one, but I could be wrong.  I'm
 open to comments.
 __
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: 16 Apr 1997 09:32:56 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: shackles and procomp 85 4RU
 To: "Toyota 4x4 List"  Subject:                              Time:  8:46 AM
 OFFICE MEMO         shackles and procomp 85 4RUNNER       Date:  4/16/97
 rob and karen boyle  wrote:>thank you for your responce, Jay Kopycinski. I had allready made the lift>shackles before I got your responce. Mine are  close to what you suggested.>I used 2''x 5/16 stock w/ braces and holes at 6.5 '' on center. 3/4 bolts>fit tite in the new energy bushings. the truck sits dead level. (thats pro>comp 4'' lift up front, black diamond add a leafs in back)  the draw back I>noticed is reduced departure angle.
 I don't believe you lost any departure angle. In effect what you did was
 leave the lower spring eye where it was originally but pushed the
 shackle mount on the frame (and the frame and body) higher.
 Am I thinking straight?
 _____________________________________________
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 Gilbert, AZ
 ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
 http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
 Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club            TLCA #3243
 _____________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:41:40 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: shackles and procomp 85 4RU
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>fit tite in the new energy bushings. the truck sits dead level. (thats pro>>comp 4'' lift up front, black diamond add a leafs in back)  the draw back I>>noticed is reduced departure angle.>> I don't believe you lost any departure angle. In effect what you did was> leave the lower spring eye where it was originally but pushed the> shackle mount on the frame (and the frame and body) higher.>> Am I thinking straight?
 I'm not sure.  If you lengthen the shackle, then the truck raises up about
 1/2 the additional length of the shackle.  And the shackle (and end of the
 spring) are 1/2 the additional length of the shackle lower than before.
 Right?
 I figure 2" longer shackle raises frame about 1" higher.  So the end of
 the shackle, being 2" longer will sit 1" lower.
 __
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 23:15:56 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: shackles and procomp 85 4RU
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-04-16 12:46:20 EDT, you write:> I don't believe you lost any departure angle. In effect what you did was>  leave the lower spring eye where it was originally but pushed the>  shackle mount on the frame (and the frame and body) higher.>>  Am I thinking straight?>>  _____________________________________________>  Jay Kopycinski
 I agree. I think the "lower departure angle" thing is kinda like an optical
 illusion.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 06:53:05 -0700
 From: "Joe 'Coerce the code, not the data' Brower"  Subject: shifting trouble
 To: "Donn E. Downey"  Donn,
 Yes, this is exactly the advice I needed -- I'm no mechanic, so it didn't
 occur to me that there might be some type of special lubricant to help worn
 synchronizers.  Great tip!  I'll be picking up a quart of this ASAP.
 Hmmm..  I wonder if TWO quarts would work better?  :-)
 At Tue, 15 Apr 1997 16:00:28 -0400, dedowney@colby.edu wrote:>It's funny you brought that up.  I just bought my '87 4x4 with 113Kmi.  It>does the exact same thing.  I talked to dealers, trusted mechanics,>not-trusted mechanics, etc., and the concensus was bad synchronizors.  It>just got a new clutch, so thats not the problem.  I was told to drain a>quart of tranny fluid and put in one quart of GM Synchromesh fluid.  It is>am apparently superior synthetic fluid ($10/ qt.) that i was told will>perhaps help the problem a bit, and not to worry about it until it gets to>where you cant get the thing into gear, which could be 100Kmi from now.  So>i put in the fluid, it helped a bit, and im jsut going to run it until i>need a rebuild.  that seems to be the only option for us poor souls.  So let>me know what you think, or what you decide to do.  Hope that helps.  take it>easy...
 Joe Brower
 Senior Programmer/Analyst, QUALCOMM Incorporated
 jbrower@qualcomm.com
 voice#:    619.658.4716      http://www.cynic.com/JB.html
 cellular#: 619.977.4483      Mac/Win 3.1/Omnis/Oracle/CDE!
 =======================================================================
 Those with brains bear the burden of thought.
 =======================================================================
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:55:08 -0500
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: Speedo Inaccuracies
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Bud wrote:>I have a question for all and Scott(?) in particular.  How do you move>the front axle 1" forward and why?  I assume for tire clearance?  Are>there any ill affects to doing this?  I get that>"mudflaprubbingonthebigtires" sound at full lock sometimes and an extra>inch would help!  I plan on new springs(3 " lift) this summer so maybe it>doesn't matter.  Thanks to all for your help!
 You drill a hole 1" forward in the main leaf of the spring pack and
 slide the rest of the springs forward to line up with the new hole.
 If you plan on doing this buy some GOOD 3/8" drill bits, spring steel has
 to be the hardest steel in the world. I ruined 3 what I thought were good
 drill bits doing this on my truck. You also have to be concerned about your
 draglink. I think Jay ended up drilling his latest front springs with a
 carbide burr in his drill press, I'd give that a try.
 If your only reason for moving the axle forward is because the tires are
 hitting the mud flaps just take them off, it's much easier. I moved my
 front axle forward because under severe compression the tire was chewing on
 the inside of the fender, which even with the axle moved forward an 1"
 it still does to some extent ...
 -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/
 Decatur, AL
 '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT
 Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
 SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 19:20:41 +0000
 From: "Mike Williams"  Subject: Subject: Body lift or no lift?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On 16 Apr 97 , Scott Wilson   wrote:
 **Question**  Do they make nerf bars for body lifted trucks so that
 when they attatch to the frame they'll still be at "normal" level?
 (i.e. if I bought normal nerfs for my 4Runner w/a 2" body lift, the
 bar would be 2" below where they should be, when compared to the cab.
 Scott you might try Smittybilt for the bodi-lift nerf bars, they used
 to make them a couple of years ago but I don't know if they still do.
 Mike Williams
 ======+++++++++++++======
 mwill@ctos.com
 ===++++++++++++++===
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:45:16 -0400
 From: grandall@tmac.com
 Subject: Subject: Oils and changing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Paul suggested that synthetic oil provided no advantage in winter
 other than viscosity.
 Over the years I've run Chevy small block V-8's and noticed that a
 white, wax like substance would form under the oil cap and on the
 underside of the valve covers in the wintertime.  I assumed it was
 from water condensing on cold surfaces.  I tried a number of different
 oils and additives over the years with no change.  My '85 22RE had the
 same problem but not as noticeable as the V-8's.  I attribute that to
 the fact that my wife's V-8's had a lot of trips under 5 miles while I
 usually drove my Toyota over 10 miles at a time.
 The wax buildup disappeared in both vehicles when I switched to
 Mobil-I.  This is the first V-8 we've run over 100,000 miles and the
 Toyota has 125,000.  I try to change the oil around 3,000 miles but
 run over sometimes.  Now, I don't know that the synthetic oil is
 responsible but I don't think I'll switch back to regular.
 Gary Randall - Brunswick, Maine
 randall_gary@tmac.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 97 15:56:21 CST
 From: "Brian Gallus"  Subject: Timing & Clutch
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 It's definitely great to have Jim on the list!
 Actually (sorry about this... ) it's a 22re.  Sorry I didn't mention
 that.  I've never been inside one, but most of the small engines I've
 owned in the past have used timing belts, so...
 Anyway, I haven't checked the TPS yet, but I'll do that soon.  I did notice
 that when I shorted the check block per the factory manual, it really
 didn't make much difference.  I checked timing w/o it jumped just for
 kicks.  What's the purpose of making this loop???
 As to the clutch, thanks for the info.  Unfortunately for me, it may not be
 that simple.
 My boss just bought a new house in a development with lots of clay and
 water.  We have been talking about cruising out to the newer areas (roads
 are marked... not yet suitable for highway vehicles) and seeing how bad the
 mud really was.  Well, found out last night.  Picture this, two guys in
 business suits and way overpriced dress shoes staring at a mud whole and
 actually being stupid enough to think they can make it through w/o a huge
 dry-cleaning bill.  No, we didn't make it.  Buried the Runner up to the
 bumpers and had to jump out to walk to his house and get his truck and hook
 up a tow rope.  So there I sat, shoes and socks off, suit pants rolled up
 to the knees, tie getting in the way and freezing my a#@ off!  Got the
 thing out, drove the block to his house and took some pictures, cruised
 home (never seen so much mud fly in my life) changed clothes and went to
 the car wash.  Took over an hour and $15 in quarters to get the big stuff
 off - it's by no means clean yet.  It's amazing how much mud and clay that
 the front skid plate will hold!
 Oh, everyone in the office has gotten more than a few laughs out of this
 one.  Dumb thing to due, especially in a suit, but incredibly fun
 nonetheless!
 Anyway, point of the story is that my clutch is not happy.  At nearly 170k
 miles, along with the righteous abuse it took last night (gotta love that
 smell!), it's been slipping a bit.  So I will most likely be replacing it
 in the next month.  I think I can limp it along on the highway until I get
 a new in place.  So I replace all the bearings and check the fork when I
 tear into replacing the clutch!
 Thanks again!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 97 15:56:21 CST
 From: "Brian Gallus"  Subject: Timing & Clutch
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 It's definitely great to have Jim on the list!
 Actually (sorry about this... ) it's a 22re.  Sorry I didn't mention
 that.  I've never been inside one, but most of the small engines I've
 owned in the past have used timing belts, so...
 Anyway, I haven't checked the TPS yet, but I'll do that soon.  I did notice
 that when I shorted the check block per the factory manual, it really
 didn't make much difference.  I checked timing w/o it jumped just for
 kicks.  What's the purpose of making this loop???
 As to the clutch, thanks for the info.  Unfortunately for me, it may not be
 that simple.
 My boss just bought a new house in a development with lots of clay and
 water.  We have been talking about cruising out to the newer areas (roads
 are marked... not yet suitable for highway vehicles) and seeing how bad the
 mud really was.  Well, found out last night.  Picture this, two guys in
 business suits and way overpriced dress shoes staring at a mud whole and
 actually being stupid enough to think they can make it through w/o a huge
 dry-cleaning bill.  No, we didn't make it.  Buried the Runner up to the
 bumpers and had to jump out to walk to his house and get his truck and hook
 up a tow rope.  So there I sat, shoes and socks off, suit pants rolled up
 to the knees, tie getting in the way and freezing my a#@ off!  Got the
 thing out, drove the block to his house and took some pictures, cruised
 home (never seen so much mud fly in my life) changed clothes and went to
 the car wash.  Took over an hour and $15 in quarters to get the big stuff
 off - it's by no means clean yet.  It's amazing how much mud and clay that
 the front skid plate will hold!
 Oh, everyone in the office has gotten more than a few laughs out of this
 one.  Dumb thing to due, especially in a suit, but incredibly fun
 nonetheless!
 Anyway, point of the story is that my clutch is not happy.  At nearly 170k
 miles, along with the righteous abuse it took last night (gotta love that
 smell!), it's been slipping a bit.  So I will most likely be replacing it
 in the next month.  I think I can limp it along on the highway until I get
 a new in place.  So I replace all the bearings and check the fork when I
 tear into replacing the clutch!
 Thanks again!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 17:52:42 -0700
 From: James Brink  Subject: Timing & Clutch
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Brian Gallus wrote:>>      It's definitely great to have Jim on the list!>>      Actually (sorry about this... ) it's a 22re.  Sorry I didn't mention>      that.  I've never been inside one, but most of the small engines I've>      owned in the past have used timing belts, so...>>      Anyway, I haven't checked the TPS yet, but I'll do that soon.  I did notice>      that when I shorted the check block per the factory manual, it really>      didn't make much difference.  I checked timing w/o it jumped just for>      kicks.  What's the purpose of making this loop???> Jumping the check connector returns the ignition timing to its base
 setting, like disconnecting the vacuum advance from a conventional
 distributor.
 - --
 Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
 brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
 Stock 4.10 gears
 Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 08:57:32 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Kevin Valentine  Subject: To Poly or not to Poly
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 To Scott and the others who are well informed about bushings:
 What is a good brand and where can they be had?  How much should one
 expect to pay for the poly bushings?  Is it a big job to install these say
 on the leaf springs,  etc.?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:22:13 -0400 (EDT)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: To Poly or not to Poly
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Wed, 16 Apr 1997, Kevin Valentine wrote:> To Scott and the others who are well informed about bushings:>> What is a good brand and where can they be had?  How much should one> expect to pay for the poly bushings?  Is it a big job to install these say> on the leaf springs,  etc.?> Well, no, except for the rear leafs. I had to burn my old rubber bushings
 out. They appeared to have fused with the metal tube that surrounded the
 bolt.
 Dr. Karl Bellve
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 17:25:41 -0700
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: To Poly or not to Poly
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Dr. Karl Bellve wrote:>> On Wed, 16 Apr 1997, Kevin Valentine wrote:>>> To Scott and the others who are well informed about bushings:>>>> What is a good brand and where can they be had?  How much should one>> expect to pay for the poly bushings?  Is it a big job to install these say>> on the leaf springs,  etc.?>>>> Well, no, except for the rear leafs. I had to burn my old rubber bushings> out. They appeared to have fused with the metal tube that surrounded the> bolt.
 I've found a much better (less smelly and faster) way to get 'em out.
 Take the toughest flat head screw driver and POUND (you'll need a BIG
 hammer) it in to the eye, right at the point where the circle (the eye)
 meets itself.  You essentially open up the eye, and the bushings either
 slide right out, or can be forced out with MUCH less effort.  I've done
 both my 4Runner and my friend Toy p/u this way with great results.
 As far as the rubber being fused with the metal tube that the bolt goes
 through, it's supposed to be.  On most of 'em its fused to both that
 center metal sleeve, and the thin one on the outside, you just remove
 and throw away the whole thing.  The new poly urethane bushing set
 should come with a new metal sleeve for the bolt to go through.
 IMHO, the ride I got from the poly, far outweights the effort it took to
 figure out how to do it.  Now that I told you the easy way, you should
 have an easier time.  After I learned how to do it on my truck, changing
 the bushings in my friends truck was a snap.
 About brands, as far as I've heard, theres no big difference.  Anyone
 heard different? Mine were Energy Suspension, and my friends were so
 other brand.
 Oh yeah, if you do it, make sure and get some really coarse sand paper
 and sand the bushings really good, then grease 'em up really well with
 the grease provided with the poly set.  This will insure they won't
 squeek.
 Hope this answered you questions.
 Scott
 - --
 Scott A. Wilson            __o          __o          __o         __o
 Santa Clara, CA          _'\<,_       _'\<,_       _'\<,_      _'\<,_
 swilson@pacbell.net     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)    (_)' (_)
 http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 23:22:19 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: To Poly or not to Poly
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-04-16 13:40:56 EDT, you write:> Well, no, except for the rear leafs. I had to burn my old rubber bushings>  out. They appeared to have fused with the metal tube that surrounded the>  bolt.>>  Dr. Karl Bellve
 I have found that an air chissel will take care of that stubborn metal
 sleeve.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:38:25 -0400 (EDT)
 From: SKeene8194@aol.com
 Subject: torque rod
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-04-16 01:39:14 EDT, you write:
<> Don't drive without the torqe rod.    Your axel WILL rotate, snapping
 Brake lines, driveshaft. and steering linkage.....  THe least that can
 happen is to mess up your alignment and give poor and dangerous
 handling.
 My 81 is raised 3" with springs.  The torque rod is attached to its
 original location.  No extensions.  I've had the alignment checked
 twice recently and it is dead on.
 Downey sells an adjusable torque rod that is bent to allow larger lifts.
 4-5" or more I think.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:26:23 -0500
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: torque rod
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 SKeene8194@aol.com wrote:>>Do I need to rotate the axle or can I just lenghten the rod?>If the truck was driven this way, the axel may have already rotated.>You may have to take it to an alignment shop to find out.>Have them check Castor angle.    Set it right and reconnect t>he torque bar.
 The torque rod has nothing to do with the front axle 'rotating' and
 staying in that position as both of you mention. If your front axle
 is somehow 'rotated', I'd think you have other more serious problems
 than the torque rod. The torque rod's job is to limit the axle housing
 rotating during braking/accelerating. If your truck is pulling to the
 right under braking than that is from the lack of the torque rod which is
 caused by the drivers side only draglink. As you brake the suspension compresses
 which causes the draglink to move which in turns causes the wheels to turn
 a bit. How much they turn depends on how fast your going and how hard you
 depress the brakes.
 The answer to your problem is to lengthen the rod and preferably put a heim
 on the axle end of the rod or convert to cross-over steering, which does
 not suffer from the same malodies as stock Toyota solid axle steering.
 -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/
 Decatur, AL
 '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT
 Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
 SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 19:20:41 +0000
 From: "Mike Williams"  Subject: torque rod
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On 16 Apr 97 , Gerald Crandall  wrote:>> I recently purchased my 1983 SR5 pickup. It has about a 2 to 3 inch> lift. I am currently running 235\70R15.  I noticed that the torque rod> was disconnected. It lacks about .50 inch of lining up to the mount.  Do> I need to rotate the axle or can I just lenghten the rod?
 Push - Pull - Sweat - Grunt  The stock torque rod on a solid axle
 Toyota with a 3" lift can be connected but it is no fun.  Rancho
 makes an adjustable torque rod that is easier to install.
 ................ I am> contemplating slightly larger tires , will that affect the position of> the torque rod also?
 Tires shouldn't affect the position of the torque rod but suspension
 changes sure will.> If the rod is left disconnected what ill effect will it have?
 Well, I would think that if you are driving without your torque rod
 connected you would feel its negative affect.  I drove my truck once
 around the block without the torque rod connected and the difference
 was very noticeable.  Whenever I hit the brakes, my truck's front
 axle would try to roll (under ?) and the truck would immediately
 pull to the side of the road (not an experience I would like to try
 at highway speeds).
 **I have seen a couple solid axle trucks that are driven without
 torque rods or any other device to stabilize the axle, but from my
 experience the torque rod definitely needs connected at both ends.
 Mike Williams
 ======+++++++++++++======
 mwill@ctos.com
 ===++++++++++++++===
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 97 12:42:55 PDT
 From: "Bryan Young"  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #130
 To:  I will be out of the office until April 23, 1997. If this is an urgent
 message, please forward your message to ArceM@ul.com. Thank you. Bryan Young
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 07:27:02 -0700
 From: "Dan Vargas" Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #130
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> The procedure for bleeding the brakes has already been discussed before> 1) bleed the wheel farther away from the master cylinder rear passenger
 side.> 2) bleed rear driver side wheel.> 3) bleed front passenger side wheel> 4) bleed driver side wheel.>> What you are doing is forcing the air out at each of the lines.>> If the brakes remain spongy after all this work. Then you may have to
 bleed> the> master cylinder too. And if the problem remains then the master cylinder> may need to be replaced.
 I've also heard that you need to bleed the rear proportioning valve too.
 Is that right?
 The proportioning valve must also be bled to get all of the air out of the
 brake lines.  There is a bleeder plug on the valve for this reason.
 Sequence: right rear, left rear, prop valve, right front, left front.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 13:56:31 -0400 (EDT)
 From: Jason Lee Arnold  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #130
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 summer is almost here and I won't be in school so please
 "unscribe" me!
 Jason Arnold
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 97 12:43:21 PDT
 From: "Bryan Young"  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #131
 To:  I will be out of the office until April 23, 1997. If this is an urgent
 message, please forward your message to ArceM@ul.com. Thank you. Bryan Young
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 16:35:58 +0100
 From: Earle Rother  Subject: Toyota LIST
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>>>> NRA lifetime member>>>>(good for you! I'm still on the year-by-year plan)>>-->>>>- ej@blarg.net>>>>>>>>Trust me we need alot more responsible gun owners to register with the NRA.>Keeps us separate from the Communist Dictatorships.>>>Steve Capuano>capuano@hypercon.com>>NRA lifetime member
 STOP! please!
 this is a TOYOTA LIST! lets keep it on subject...
 Earle Rother
 ewr@appsig.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 20:11:54 -0500
 From: Steve Capuano  Subject: Toyota LIST
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>STOP! please!>this is a TOYOTA LIST! lets keep it on subject...>>>Earle Rother>ewr@appsig.com> Yes this is a Toyota List and it is also a free speech forum where a mild
 tangent can be discussed.  I happen to believe in the Constitution of the
 United States of America and will voice my opinion when the chance arises.
 This is not an ongoing thread that has been wasting bandwidth, so calm down
 and enjoy life.
 Steve Capuano
 capuano@hypercon.com
 NRA lifetime member
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 20:33:53 -0500
 From: Steve Capuano  Subject: Toyota Locking Diff.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The local dealership said that to try and install a Toy Locking Diff that is
 an option on the new Taco's would be very labor intensive and expensive.
 They also said that vacuum servos and other devices needed to be installed
 also.  All that to have a locking diff on the new Taco.
 I think that the Lock Right is looking real good about now.
 Steve Capuano
 capuano@hypercon.com
 NRA lifetime member
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 17 Apr 1997 00:17:32 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: track bar / laddar bars
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I haven't looked under my truck, but I have a question for people who have
 added rear  devices to reduse axle wrap.  Do you use just one of these or
 two?  Is the gas tank in the way on the passenger side?
 I saw Jay's page and what he has there on the subject.  I was considering
 something similar, with two  (actually 4) mounting points on the axle, and a
 single frame mount, I guess this would be a Y design.  How does this sound?
 Can some one help me?
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: 16 Apr 1997 09:42:30 -0700
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Track bar designs
 To: "Toyota 4x4 List"  Subject:                              Time:  9:41 AM
 OFFICE MEMO         Track bar designs                     Date:  4/16/97
 I've had a number of people ask about my track bar design so
 I've put a bit of info in the tech section on my home page
 (address below).
 It doesn't give specifics on mounts but does explain one
 and two link ladder track bar designs. I'll try to add more
 later if there is interest.
 Hope you find this info useful.
 _______________________________________
 Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 Gilbert, AZ
 ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
 http://www.netzone.com/~jayk
 Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club            TLCA #3243
 _______________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 12:43:04 -0400 (EDT)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: Track bar designs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On 16 Apr 1997, Jay Kopycinski wrote:> It doesn't give specifics on mounts but does explain one> and two link ladder track bar designs. I'll try to add more> later if there is interest.>> Hope you find this info useful.>> Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)> http://www.netzone.com/~jayk> Arizona Lo-Rangers 4WD Club            TLCA #3243
 Nice web page.
 Dr. Karl Bellve
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 11:19:36 -0700
 From: Locke Christman  Subject: Track bar designs
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Jay,
 This is probably a dumb question, but what is a Heim joint and where can
 a common example be found?
 Locke
 lac@feico.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 17:53:49 -0500
 From: "Larry D Walls"  Subject: tranny's
 To: "Toy4x4"  Someone wrote" the 4spd tranny's lack the strength for v6 or v8
 conversions" I don't know about the v8 swap, but I've had a 30 over 231 v6
 bolted up to my 4spd 1980 Hilux since bringing it back from Japan in 1990.
 The only problem I've had is keeping clutch's in it, I change the oil 3or4
 times a year so maybe that has something to do with it. Most everyone that
 I know that used the 5spd always had bearing problems like someone else
 said, so maybe I've been lucky so far.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 09:07:18 -0700
 From: callahan@CCIT.ARIZONA.EDU (Phil Callahan)
 Subject: Transmission upgrade
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The 5 speed in my '83 is in need of a rebuild and the
 local parts store has quoted me $950 with core for a
 rebuilt with a one year warranty.  I understand that the '79 to
 83 transmission is problematic in that it is inherently weaker
 than the newer ones.  It is also a one-piece tranny and
 bellhousing that would limit a possible upgrade to a 4.3 V6
 in the future.  Given the expertise of this newsgroup, does
 anyone have any suggestions as to which model/year tranny I
 should be looking for, given that I will using the 22R, but
 anticipating a 4.3 upgrade in the future?
 thanks
 phil
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 15:22:10 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: Tru-Tracks or Detroit Locker
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In the next two weeks I plan on installing 4:88 gears and lockers front
 and rear. I plan to use the Tru-Track up front but as still unsure about
 the rear.
 Here is my question to everone:
 If you have a Detroit locker in the rear, are you happy?
 Does anyone on the list have a Tru-Track in the rear? Are you happy,do you
 wish you had used the Detroit? Has there ever been a time you needed more
 power to a wheel then the Tru-Track could transfer?
 Has any one person had one and switched to the other? Why did you switch
 and are you happy now?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 10:01:37 +0100
 From: Earle Rother  Subject: Ventilation Noise?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>> My question has to do with a rather odd gargling noise in the dash.  I>am>>> assuming it has something to do with the ventilation system, especially>since>>> in only occurs when the temp. selector is between hot and cold.  You>>> essentially have to have it shoved completely one way or the other to>avoid the>>> noise.  Also, it happens during acceleration, or more accurately,>anytime the>>> engine RPM in raised.  Which is to say that at a calm idle, it most>often goes>>> into hiding.>>>>>> Just curious if anyone has any ideas or similar experiences, and what I>should>>> do to go about fixing it.>>My '88 V6 does the same thing occasionally. Only when the lever is moved>enough to open the heater valve do I hear this. I had a problem with>loosing a small amount of coolant over the course of 3K mile oil changes. I>was stressed thinking that my head gasket was going again (just replaced 14>months ago). I had a feeling it was a hose leak or something. After looking>all over the hoses I couldn't find it. Finally one cool dry day I pulled in>the driveway and I smelled coolant. I popped the hood and saw a small drip>off of the coolant hose right near the ground strap from the air plenum and>firewall. I had placed a tee there for a Prestone backflush kit when I>redid the head. I popped it off and the clamps were marginally tight. I>guess the hose shrank with time/heat where it slipped over the tee. I>tightened it and viola...no more gurgling.>>Michael Rowe>m.rowe@mail.utexas.edu
 Michael I have the same noise in my heater core - I assume it's air being
 forced through the valve - I need to bleed the system of air.
 Did you replace the head gasket or did you have someone do it for you? If
 you did it was it that hard? PITA?
 thanks,
 Earle Rother
 ewr@appsig.com
 ------------------------------
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