Toy4x4 Digest          Tue, 17 Mar 98 00:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 768
 Today's Topics:
 32's on a Tacoma (3 msgs)
 9000 shocks (2 msgs)
 Admin:  Switch to Majordomo
 Battery cables
 bearings and rings (3 msgs)
 Bio
 books (3 msgs)
 Ckutch slave cylinder
 Dana 60 / Toyota 8" mods (5 msgs)
 Digest mode
 Double jointed shackle set up / Mazda spring swap?? (2 msgs)
 Finally fixed my exhaust
 LOCKERS (5 msgs)
 OEM Shop Manual (2 msgs)
 Oxygen sensor Check
 Performance Products??? (3 msgs)
 Please take me off of your contact list.
 rear suspension ideas (2 msgs)
 Repair Manuals
 Tacoma Grille
 tires fitting & 1" body lift Q
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #765
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #767
 travel (3 msgs)
 Uh-oh..
 wanted: LockRight (3 msgs)
 water pump for 22R-TEC
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 16:31:25 -0600
 From: "Steve C."  Subject: 32's on a Tacoma
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Lance Morin wrote:> Hey Steve,>> I noticed you run 32x11.50x15's on you 96 Taco, but you don't mention a lift> of anykind. Just wondering if you do have a lift and how the tires size is> working out for you with rubbing and all. I've got a 1998 Tacoma ext cab V6> 4x4 bone stock right now. It doen't have the off-road package or 31's even,> but I'm looking to put some 32's on it by this time next year probably. That> and a rear lockright should set me up for some better times. I've not done> much 4 wheeling in this vehicle, but enjoyed a bit more in my stock 95> pre-Tacoma 4 banger with 31" tires.>> Lance Morin - 1998 Tacoma Extended Cab V6 4x4 (stock)> siralf@cyberramp.net
 I did not need to lift my truck to fit these tires.  I will get rubbing
 on the rear of the front fender plastic and slightly on the frame at
 full lock and compressed.
 I have had more fun with this setup in 2 outings than I have ever had
 with my 31 inch street stock tires.
 - --
 Steve Capuano			1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
 stevecapuano@geocities.com	32x11.50x15 BFG MT
 Houston, Texas			Rear LockRight  K&N filter
 Edelbrock headers
 NRA lifetime member		Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 19:48:10 -0500
 From: Chris Caldwell  Subject: 32's on a Tacoma
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Steve C. wrote:> I did not need to lift my truck to fit these tires.  I will get rubbing> on the rear of the front fender plastic and slightly on the frame at> full lock and compressed.> I have had more fun with this setup in 2 outings than I have ever had> with my 31 inch street stock tires.> --> Steve Capuano                   1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4> stevecapuano@geocities.com      32x11.50x15 BFG MT> Houston, Texas                  Rear LockRight  K&N filter>                                 Edelbrock headers> NRA lifetime member             Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 Hey Steve, are you running the Toyo 7" alloy wheels?
 Chris C.
 caldwell@vol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:09:45 -0600
 From: "Steve C."  Subject: 32's on a Tacoma
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Chris Caldwell wrote:>> Hey Steve, are you running the Toyo 7" alloy wheels?>> Chris C.> caldwell@vol.com
 you betcha I cant afford new rims too....heh heh...
 - --
 Steve Capuano			1996 Tacoma ext cab V6 4X4
 stevecapuano@geocities.com	32x11.50x15 BFG MT
 Houston, Texas			Rear LockRight  K&N filter
 Edelbrock headers
 NRA lifetime member		Dynomax 2.5" cat back
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 19:03:53 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: 9000 shocks
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 It's up to you, how much abuse you can take from stiff suspension.
 I would only use the 9000's if you want lower settings on the street.
 I only had the 5's in the front before, but I think that the adjustable
 9's are nearly useless off road. Stiff shocks only limit travel if you're
 mov'n fast, so I see no draw back to the 5's. Let me also note that my
 9's have been loosening their adjustment. Apparently from road
 vibrations. My spring rates are relatively soft too, so the ride is not
 too rough. They used to have metal knobs, now they're cheap plastic. I
 would recommend the 5000's if you go with Rancho at all.
 Just my experience. Jon Brandt
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 19:22:16 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: 9000 shocks
 To:  Nobody else makes shocks with that much travel except doetch tech and they
 are $$$$$$$$$$
 The 9012's have 14" of travel.  I have trail masters now and I like the
 ride, wouldn't want it any stiffer though..
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Jon Brandt  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Monday, March 16, 1998 7:05 PM
 Subject: RE: 9000 shocks>It's up to you, how much abuse you can take from stiff suspension.>>I would only use the 9000's if you want lower settings on the street.>I only had the 5's in the front before, but I think that the adjustable>9's are nearly useless off road. Stiff shocks only limit travel if you're>mov'n fast, so I see no draw back to the 5's. Let me also note that my>9's have been loosening their adjustment. Apparently from road>vibrations. My spring rates are relatively soft too, so the ride is not>too rough. They used to have metal knobs, now they're cheap plastic. I>would recommend the 5000's if you go with Rancho at all.>>Just my experience. Jon Brandt
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 22:52:05 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Admin:  Switch to Majordomo
 To: Toy4x4 List  If all goes as planned the Toy4x4 List will be running on Majordomo by
 Tuesday evening.   We don't expect the switch to be very noticable, but
 please be patient if we experience difficulty.   The address you use to
 post will remain   and  the admin address will remain
.
 Thanks,
 Scott
 List Admin
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:29:41 -0600
 From: Robert Stein  Subject: Battery cables
 To: Toyota list  - ----------------------Quote----------------------------->  fix cured the problem.  Do not buy the cables from the dealer.  Mine>  wanted over $100 for the pair and the universals from Napa are better>  quality anyhow.  David Gibbs> Just a little thought, I replaced mine with marine type connectors, with
 wing
 nuts on the top.   This makes it easy to add/remove accessories, and
 easy
 to
 check for loose connections.  I have not had a single problem with them
 working themselves loose.
 - - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 - -------------------End Quote---------------------------
 While on the subject , I have SEVERAL really neat "Post Adapters" that
 will allow you to go from a standard top post  setup to
 a stud type setup. These adapters are all brass with 2 tightening
 "bolts" and 1 combination tightening bolt/stud. They are GREAT for
 accessory hookups and the ALSO have a grease fitting so you can fill
 them with di-electric grease so they won't corrode :)
 If ANYONE is interested in a set , contact me personally and I'll make
 you a GREAT deal on a set .....If asked , I shoot a pic and post on my
 web page .......
 Sorry for the bandwidth, but it looked like a good place to jump in :)
 - --
 Robert Stein        rjstein@lawtonok.net
 FAX (405)355-1476   rrbbs@juno.com
 Lawton,Okla         rjstein@wolverine.cameron.edu
 http://www.lawtonok.net/rjstein
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 18:47:18 -0700
 From: "Baltzly, Michael R(C05422)"  Subject: bearings and rings
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'" >A month ago someone posted that they were going to install rings and
 rod>bearings while the block remained in the truck.  Please let us know
 how>successful your efforts were, i.e.  oil consumption, power increase
 etc.
 I replaced my rings and rod bearings around the end of January.  I
 only have about 1100 miles since then and I was going to wait a little
 longer to get a better feel for the oil consumption, but I can tell
 you how things have gone so far.
 My truck is a carbureted 1985 longbed, 209,000 miles, completely
 stock.  It was burning around 2 quarts of oil per tank of gas.  When I
 floored the gas pedal to enter a freeway I could see a huge blue cloud
 in my rearview mirror.  My oil got black 2 miles after it was changed.
 I bought 20-50 oil by the case at Costco.  Other than that, the
 engine ran fairly well.  When I replaced the rings I filled the
 crankcase up with 20-50 and had burned about 1/4 quart after 500
 miles.  At that point I had the oil changed with 10-30 and I have not
 burned a noticeable amount in 600 miles.  It is hard to read the
 dipstick when the oil is hot because it has stayed clear rather than
 get black.  I don't put out any blue clouds, and I can feel real
 compression holding me back when I let off on the throttle.  Power is
 up noticably.  I think that the operation was a success.
 Notes on replacing rings
 - --------------------------------
 First, let me say that I am not a top banana mechanic compared to many
 people on this list, so please feel free to correct me.  Second, sorry
 about the length of this post.
 |From what I have seen and heard, when 22R engines are burning
 significant amounts of oil it is always coming through the rings.
 Some other engine families have problems with valves or valve seals,
 but you are kidding yourself if you think that your 22R's heavy oil
 consumption is going to be helped by a valve job.  The best solution
 is to remove the engine from the truck and have it bored, measured,
 and rebuilt to perfection.  Another alternative is to just replace the
 rings.  This is a lot cheaper, and also a lot easier if you don't have
 a crane and an engine stand.  Of course, if the engine is in bad
 shape--like if it has been run without oil or water--then simply
 replacing the rings won't help much.  I have owned my truck since new,
 so I knew that it hadn't been abused.
 The parts that I bought were:
 Hastings moly rings		$48
 Clevite 77 rod bearings		$15
 Felpro gasket set		$80
 The only tools needed are basic wrenches and a torque wrench, which I
 had, and a ring compressor, which I borrowed from Pep Boys.
 I think that the hardest part of the job is removing the head.  At
 least that is part that is mostly likely to throw your back out.  I
 didn't have a hoist or any help to lift the head, and I was barely
 able to manhandle it.  I had to take the exhaust manifold off first to
 lessen the weight.  It is essentially impossible to remove the intake
 manifold while the head is in the truck because there are studs along
 the bottom that are inaccessible.  Some things that I wished that I
 had known:
 *  There are two AIR pipes on the exhaust manifold that wrap around
 the back of the head.  You need to loosen the bolts on these pipes
 under the INTAKE manifold to get enough slack to be able to take the
 pipes off the exhaust manifold.
 *  There is a bracket for a heater pipe that is bolted to the back of
 head and must be loosened.
 *  Number all connections, then video tape your engine compartment
 before taking things apart.
 *  After you think that you have removed everything from the intake
 manifold, you will discover two large hoses that connect to the very
 bottom.
 *  Pull straight up on the head or you will break the plastic timing
 chain guides.
 I found that the only way that I could lift the head off is by
 standing in the engine compartment in front of the engine, where the
 radiator usually goes.  I am 5'10", 155 pounds and I barely fit.  If
 you are much bigger you can probably deadlift the weight of a 22R head
 even while reaching across the grill, so you may have an easier time
 than me.
 Now that the head is off, check out how the cylinders look.  You
 should be able to see crosshatching still in the bores.  Look
 especially at how much of a ridge there is at the top of the cylinder
 bores.  If the ridges are very big then you will need to remove them
 before you can push the pistons out the top.  I had so little ridge
 that I just took a piece of 600-grit emery paper on my fingers and
 wiped it around a couple of times to get rid of the carbon buildup.
 If your bores have major ridges then I doubt if just replacing the
 rings will do much good--time to think about pulling the engine to
 have it bored.
 Once you have the head off, dropping the oil pan and removing the
 pistons is easy on a live axle truck.  The oil pan is a tight fit next
 to the front differential, so you need to lift the engine a couple of
 inches relative to the axle to get it off.  The manual talks about
 unbolting the motor mounts and jacking up the transmission, however I
 found it easier to leave everything together and jack up the frame on
 the passenger's (short) side to get the clearance.  If you have a lift
 you probably don't need to worry about this.  I have never looked into
 how hard it is to remove the oil pan on an IFS truck.  Once the pan is
 off, you will be looking right at the big ends of the rods.  If the
 timing mark is at TDC then the rods for cylinders 2 and 3 will be
 hanging down where you can get at them easily.  I removed and replaced
 the pistons one at a time.  They are not numbered, and you don't want
 to get them mixed up.  Just unbolt the rod bearing cap and push up on
 the rod until the piston pops out the top.  Then take the old rings
 off the piston, clean off all of the carbon, check the piston and rod
 for unusual wear, and put on your new rings.  I had a ring expander,
 but I found that I could do a better job by carefully spreading the
 rings with my thumbs.  Snap new bearing halves into the rod and cap,
 oil up the cylinder bore and piston, then use your ring compressor and
 a hammer handle to tap the piston (with the mark toward the front)
 into the bore.  Be careful and don't force the rings.  If they don't
 want to start then compress them again and try to line the compressor
 up better next time.  After the piston is started down the bore, you
 will be best advised to crawl under the truck and pull the rod the
 rest of the way to seat it on the crank.  You don't want to bang the
 rod or rod bolt into the crank and nick it.  Use some oil or assembly
 lube on the rod bearings so they aren't dry on the crank.  Put the cap
 on the rod with the mark facing the front, and torque it down.  Then
 swing the engine around for at least one revolution to make sure that
 nothing is binding.  Do this same procedure to the other 3 pistons,
 then turn the engine over a few times by hand and check the torque on
 the rod bolts again.
 If you ever had any thoughts of replacing your timing components you
 will never get a better chance to take the front cover off than now,
 when the head and oil pan are already off.
 This would also be a good time to send your head off for a valve job.
 Put everything back together in the reverse order that you took it
 apart and fill it up with fluids.  I used the cork/rubber oil pan
 gasket that came in my Felpro set.  I had genuine Toyota FIPG material
 (and plenty of silicone) but the gasket seemed like an easier and less
 messy solution.  It hasn't leaked yet.  Try to get everything hooked
 up and timed well enough so that the engine will start quickly and
 keep running.  You want to get oil pressure right away to the new
 bearings.  The engine may seem a little rough at first, but will
 smooth out quite a bit within a few miles.  The package of rings had
 some break-in instructions that said to drive in top gear at 35 mph,
 then floor it until 50 mph and repeat 10 times, then drive normally.
 Good luck.
 Mike
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1993 18:45:01 -0800
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: bearings and rings
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Baltzly, Michael R(C05422) wrote:>  Some other engine families have problems with valves or valve seals,> but you are kidding yourself if you think that your 22R's heavy oil> consumption is going to be helped by a valve job.
 I've seen quite the contrary.  Valve seals are often the source of
 burning oil on Hondas and Toyotas.  Especially ones that have sat for
 months on end without running.  A simple valve seal job on a
 decent-to-well maintained Honda or Toyota at about the 180-200,000 mile
 interval will often keep the vehicle running great for another
 100-150,000 miles.
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 22:49:16 -0800
 From: "Jay Biery"  Subject: bearings and rings
 To:  It may not be necessary to have your crank turned.  I'd measure it first.
 I am doing a frame up restoration of my 85 22R-E.  It has 152,000 miles on
 it.  Since I bought the truck used with 120,000 miles on it, I had no idead
 how the truck was cared for over the years.  Therefor, I decided to rebuild
 the motor.  To my surprise the motor had little to no wear.  All crank,
 rod, and every other engine part was pristine.  The only thing I needed to
 do was rings.  The cylinders were fine too!.  I am impressed.  Make sure
 you get the correct rod and crank bearings because there are several sizes
 offered.
 Also, I have rebuilt a nissan engine with the motor still in the chassis.
 It was not the easiest thing, but it worked.
 ~Jay    85 SR5 Extended
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 15:03:50 -0800 (PST)
 From: Rogelio Ordway  Subject: Bio
 To: Toy4x4  - ---Toy4x4-Request  wrote:>> Personal Bio Info>> POST TO THE LIST ONLY>> toy4x4@tlca.org> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++>> Name:Rogelio Ordway>> City & State:Coulee Dam, WA>> Country:USA>> E-mail address:rordway@yahoo.com or tacobender@hotmail.com>> Toyota (s) year & model:1996 Tacoma>> Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):n>> Age:18>> Occupation:student>> Marital Status:single>> Hobbies:motorcross, 4wheeling, basktball, hunting>> How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:internet>> General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:signed up for the United
 States Marine Corps, hope to fix up my toyota into a 4wheeling rig as
 soon as possible>> _________________________________________________________
 DO YOU YAHOO!?
 Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 18:08:34 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: books
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Mon, 16 Mar 1998, heather or kevin wrote:> Does anyone have the Toyota Owners Bible?  I saw it listed from Amazon and> haven't seen it around here.  I already have the Haynes manual and don't> want the bible if it's hype.  Hype isn't worth 30 bucks to me.> 				Thanks> Administrator:  Love the list and the great info it provides---its your> list--your rules> 				Kevin Boline> This book is GREAT! Especially for those jsut getting into things, and
 want to know history and such like. Like the Cruiser, and trucks you
 never though Toy made, ect. If you're looking for tech, its nothing like
 the list, but it makes great reading for you Toy geeks out there. My local
 dealer sells it, just about every book store...I'm in Sac. Calif. If you
 can't find it, try mail order.
 Jon Brandt
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 18:15:08 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: books
 To:  I saw it at the dealer...
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
 Brandon Miller
 Sacramento CA
 email - miller@csus.edu
 home page - http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Jon Brandt  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Monday, March 16, 1998 6:12 PM
 Subject: Re: books>>>On Mon, 16 Mar 1998, heather or kevin wrote:>>> Does anyone have the Toyota Owners Bible?  I saw it listed from Amazon
 and>> haven't seen it around here.  I already have the Haynes manual and don't>> want the bible if it's hype.  Hype isn't worth 30 bucks to me.>> Thanks>> Administrator:  Love the list and the great info it provides---its your>> list--your rules>> Kevin Boline>>>This book is GREAT! Especially for those jsut getting into things, and>want to know history and such like. Like the Cruiser, and trucks you>never though Toy made, ect. If you're looking for tech, its nothing like>the list, but it makes great reading for you Toy geeks out there. My local>dealer sells it, just about every book store...I'm in Sac. Calif. If you>can't find it, try mail order.>>Jon Brandt
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 18:25:12 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: books
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jack Alford wrote:>> I'll be happy to sell you my copy of the Toyota Owners Heresy, I mean hype,> ...> uh no that's bible for $15 + shipping ...
 Geez, this is the second time you've offerd to sell that book, Jack.
 When do you start paying people to take it?  :-)
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Toyota Std. Bed 4WD
 Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com
 ************************************************************************
 TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
 Visit http://www.off-road.com Putting Off-Road, Online!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 20:00:46 +0000
 From: sbever@jeffnet.org
 Subject: Ckutch slave cylinder
 To: "Christopher M. Zajac" ,> Date: Sun, 15 Mar 1998 13:40:48 -0800> From: "Christopher M. Zajac" > Subject: Ckutch Slave Cylinder> To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" > Bolted to the bellhousing.  A small cylinder that has a pushrod going to
 the clutch fork which sticks out the side of the bellhousing.> I had my clutch inspected by a shop and was told that my master and> slave cylinders need to be replaced. I found the master cylinder but I> have no clue where the slave cylinder is. I can't find any referance to> it in a Hayes repair manuel either. I need help!!>                                      Chris Zajac
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 17:56:01 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: Dana 60 / Toyota 8" mods
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Mon, 16 Mar 1998, Darren Floen wrote:> A Dana 60 has a 9 3/4" ring(crown) gear,vs.8" for a Toy.Everything else> is very beefy.I run one in my Pro Street Dodge,and it easily handles the> estimated 550hp my 440 is making.Then again,so did my old Mopar 8 3/4> rear.If i ever upgrade the rear in my Toy it will be with an 8 3/4,to> retain the dropout 3rd member.An 8 3/4" rear could easily handle any> size tires most people run on a Toy,with most engines as well.>> Darren> Exactly, bigger is not better. Enough said.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:31:43 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: Dana 60 / Toyota 8" mods
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 A dana60 is still a much stronger rearend,but it is overkill,imho.
 Darren
 Jon Brandt wrote:>> On Mon, 16 Mar 1998, Darren Floen wrote:>>> A Dana 60 has a 9 3/4" ring(crown) gear,vs.8" for a Toy.Everything else>> is very beefy.I run one in my Pro Street Dodge,and it easily handles the>> estimated 550hp my 440 is making.Then again,so did my old Mopar 8 3/4>> rear.If i ever upgrade the rear in my Toy it will be with an 8 3/4,to>> retain the dropout 3rd member.An 8 3/4" rear could easily handle any>> size tires most people run on a Toy,with most engines as well.>>>> Darren>>> Exactly, bigger is not better. Enough said.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:36:37 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: Dana 60 / Toyota 8" mods
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-03-16 21:13:08 EST, you write:> Exactly, bigger is not better. Enough said.
 Well, the ring gear on the Toy is not usually the problem.  I personally
 trashed a pinion gear, and I have heard of several others.
 But, most of the time, bigger IS better.  Do you see many people swapping in
 Toy axles for heavy applications?  No.  More 14 bolts, 60's, & 44's.
 The issue for swapping generally goes way beyond R&P strength, but also
 carrier strenght (affects locker strength), tube strength, brake size, full
 floating capabilities, housing strength, bearing size, etc.
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 www.netmatter.com/traxx
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 18:55:19 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: Dana 60 / Toyota 8" mods
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Toyota imported a foreign idea, which American manufactures, for the
 most part haven't cought on to; quality
 I don't know of a stronger axle, for the size than the Toy 8"
 All I meant was that size is not the only factor.
 END
 On Mon, 16 Mar 1998, DRM033 wrote:> In a message dated 98-03-16 21:13:08 EST, you write:>>> Exactly, bigger is not better. Enough said.>> Well, the ring gear on the Toy is not usually the problem.  I personally> trashed a pinion gear, and I have heard of several others.>> But, most of the time, bigger IS better.  Do you see many people swapping in> Toy axles for heavy applications?  No.  More 14 bolts, 60's, & 44's.>> The issue for swapping generally goes way beyond R&P strength, but also> carrier strenght (affects locker strength), tube strength, brake size, full> floating capabilities, housing strength, bearing size, etc.>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------> David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com> 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,> 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000>                         TLCA #5662>          Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club>               www.netmatter.com/traxx> --------------------------------------------------------------------->>>>> ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 23:55:46 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: Dana 60 / Toyota 8" mods
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-03-16 22:15:14 EST, you write:> Toyota imported a foreign idea, which American manufactures, for the>  most part haven't cought on to; quality
 Yep, Ford design.>  I don't know of a stronger axle, for the size than the Toy 8">>  All I meant was that size is not the only factor.> I think that is what I said.
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 www.netmatter.com/traxx
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 18:14:24 -0500
 From: "J. Brashear"  Subject: Digest mode
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Please place me in digest mode again, all the messages clog up my in box.
 One who does not read good books has no advantage over one who can't read.
 --Mark Twain
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 12:27:29 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: Double jointed shackle set up / Mazda spring swap??
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>The point here is that you have a what seems to be a 3 or 4 link> locating system, which is another ball game.
 My springs run on a 4 link. In terms of double shackles with one fixed
 mount the engineering is the same>that extra 1/2" of travel will never be noticed of missed.
 It's a lot more than M-= inch. But depends on the length of the pivot
 shackle.>So, if you can get the tire to stay on the ground, but it spins>uselessly with no real "traction", what has it gained you?
 If you compare a rig with single shackles and take it to the point that
 a tyre lifts then add double shackles and try again. You will find you
 are not spinning the tyre at the same point in travel. Eventually you
 will be in the same situation but this 4+ inches down>If you are talking about shackles at each end of the leaf spring,>then I see advantages. If you are talking about two linked shackles> at on end of the spring, I see few advantages and many>Disadvantages.
 It is true that shackles on both ends  is a better system with more
 travel.>A system like this might provide a slight increase (slight) in
 traction,
 At the extremes of travel no traction is gained. At a point where extra
 travel is in operation more traction is present.>what about the fact that the spring is no longer positively located>to the frame?
 It is, I'll send you the pics that will help.>There would have to be an increase in sway, unless the link resting>on the frame was pinned down.
 That depends on the pivot shackle design and mount. I convert the stock
 mount to a bearing drive and the shackle itself locks into the frame
 under normal travel.>I see what you are trying to say about leverage from opposing>springs and such, but if that is such a big concern just use a super> long spring.
 The length of the spring has little bearing on forced articulation.>Longer springs will wrap easier but you are already using some sort>of bizarre link system that I assume is to control this.
 The wrapup is a function of the spring rate. When adding longer springs
 most go for lesser rates and a linkage to control induced wrapup. With
 shackles on both ends I go for a V link. With a shackle on one end I
 stay away from linkages but use a higher spring rate, often with a V
 link with quick disconnects for the trail. I don't think a V link is
 bizarre>newer air ride trucks suffer severe rearend hop(unloaded)because>because the trailing arms that the axles mount to are not secured at> the rear, such as would be the case with buggy springs and double> shackles. The rear axle rotation would try to extend the shackles> under acceleration, just as the front would do in reverse gear. What> is done to combat this?
 The axle hop is caused by the spring rate not the links. If the rate is
 too high as in unladen this is the only thing the axle can do. . On a
 tension shackle such as the "velvet ride" shackle, addresses wrapup
 effectively due to the torsion effect. As I said in my last post I'm not
 a fan of buggy springs due to the stresses. Buggy springs go on the
 fixed eye which puts them under compression during wrapup. With Double
 shackles on the trailing edge, wrapup is per stock and is a function of
 the spring rate. Wrapup will cause the main shackle to move not the
 pivot shackle>Do you use crossover?
 I'm using a double pivot crossover setup.>What type of leaves are you using(brand-custom)?
 I use Superlift a lot but my springs are custom made.
 James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:36:34 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: Double jointed shackle set up / Mazda spring swap??
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-03-16 20:31:57 EST, you write:>>  The wrapup is a function of the spring rate. When adding longer springs>  most go for lesser rates and a linkage to control induced wrapup. With>  shackles on both ends I go for a V link. With a shackle on one end I>  stay away from linkages but use a higher spring rate, often with a V>  link with quick disconnects for the trail. I don't think a V link is>  bizarre> I think part of the problem is I (and maybe others) are unsure of what you are
 calling a "V link".  If you could explain this, I would appreciate it.
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 www.netmatter.com/traxx
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 10:37:55 -0800
 From: "Richard Aguinsky"  Subject: Finally fixed my exhaust
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My exhaust was cracked at the Y bent pipe that goes
 between the manifold and the cat. All my exhaust was
 welded on so I couldn't replace the Y pipe alone.
 At a muffler shop they wanted arround $200 to change the
 only the pipe and weld it back to the cat.
 I ended up buying everything (even the cat) except the
 muffler and tail pipe at Kragens, all for only $170,
 including the cat.
 $88 for the cat (gaskets included)
 $56 for the Y pipe (next time it cracks it'll be easy)
 $19 for the pipe between the cat and the muffler.
 $ 4 for Y pipe gaskets. Better at the dealer, these are crap.
 and for later on:
 $19 for the muffler
 $19 for the tail pipe
 The hardest part was sawing off part of the muffler welded
 to the pipe. Now I put a 1 3/4" clamp.
 I remember reading in the list that it is difficult to
 seal well the gaskets in the cat, so I went to Orchard and
 bought 1/4" screws, coarse, #8 and really pressed the
 gaskets. No leaks what so ever.
 The gasket to the manifold was leaking, since the Toyota
 dealer was closed, I ended up stacking two gaskets together,
 the old and new ones. I know this sounds weird, but it worked.
 I'm not into performance nor noise, just a stock truck
 as quiet as can be.
 Thanx for all the info I received from the list. I sending
 this email for my 2 pennies worth.
 rich
 '87 4runner
 191000 miles young
 now with a new and quieted exhaust.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:45:04 -0600
 From: Michael Woodruff  Subject: LOCKERS
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Going to blow some $$$ this Saturday when 4Wheel parts has their March
 maddness sale.........I'd like to know which lockers you guys are happiest
 with.  My truck is an 85 SR5 4Runner.  THANKS!!!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 19:57:00 -0800
 From: "Todd and Terry Steele"  Subject: LOCKERS
 To:  Michael Woodruff wrote:>  Going to blow some $$$ this Saturday when 4Wheel parts has their
 March>maddness sale.
 The Fresno store had their sale 2 days ago????
 ........I'd like to know which lockers you guys are happiest>with
 I use EZ Lockers front and rear.  They work well for me.  They do bang quite
 a bit on pavement though.
 Todd
 His:  87 Toyota 4X4, Marlin Tcase #180, EZ Lockers F/R, Warn MX8000, Custom
 rear bumper and nerfs, Ramsey F bumper, Trailmaster/Superlift 4", 33-9.5 BFG
 MT's.  Custom Body by Sierra Nevada.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:51:44 -0800
 From: "Sandy and Terry"  Subject: LOCKERS
 To:  I gotta vote for the Detroit Soft Locker.  It is strong and uncomplicated,
 not as many $$$ as an ARB, and there is no plumbing, no air compressors.
 It's always there and will always remind you of its presence.  Some don't
 like the street manners but then it's a truck.
 While your at it get the EZ Locker for the front and don't forget about gear
 ratios.
 Two years ago I took advantage of the March sale and got gears, lockers, Pro
 Comp II lift, Warn Premium Hubs, nerf bars all installed out the door for
 just under $2800.
 Terry Johnson>  Going to blow some $$$ this Saturday when 4Wheel parts has their March>maddness sale.........I'd like to know which lockers you guys are happiest>with.  My truck is an 85 SR5 4Runner.  THANKS!!!> ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 10:05:36 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: LOCKERS
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I like my detroit soft locker in the rear and EZ locker in front. I have had> a lockrights front  and  rear on my last truck and I like the full Detroit> locker much better. Much better on street performance and stronger then the> lockright type. Also there is a defect in all lockright spring assemblys> that will cause the locker lock up and not unlock. The Detroit EZ locker is> the same as the lockright unit execpt for the springs. The EZ locker uses 2> springs but the lockright uses 4 springs, one inside the other on each side.> These two springs get stuck and cause the locker to have problems unlocking.> I also notice much less of the bang snap noises (almost none) that the> lockrights have.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html> I'd like to know which lockers you guys are happiest> with.  My truck is an 85 SR5 4Runner.  THANKS!!!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 22:27:57 -0800
 From: "Tim"  Subject: LOCKERS
 To: >The Fresno store had their sale 2 days ago????> The Fresno store already had their sale?? darn.  Anyway, I vote for the
 detriots.  I've got one in the rear and it does chirp but once you get used
 to it, it's not that bad at all.
 Tim Stucky
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 16:11:00 -0800
 From: kkuo@wimsey.com (Kenneth Kuo)
 Subject: OEM Shop Manual
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hi all,
 I inquired a local reputable Toy dealer for an OEM shop manual for '89
 4Runners/pickups, and was awestruck to hear that I'd have to pay $140(Cdn)
 for one. Although for a lot less $$ I could buy a Haynes or Chilton version
 but I'm told the OEM version is much more detailed and easy to
 cross-reference, especially on parts numbers. Still, that's a lot of dough
 for any manual.
 Does anyone know of other sources of OEM manuals besides Toyota where I can
 obtain one for less ? Much appreciated !
 Kenneth Kuo
 kkuo@gvrd.bc.ca
 Vancouver, B.C.
 '89 4Runner/22RE/5spd
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 18:08:29 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: OEM Shop Manual
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Kenneth Kuo wrote:>> Hi all,>> I inquired a local reputable Toy dealer for an OEM shop manual for '89> 4Runners/pickups, and was awestruck to hear that I'd have to pay $140(Cdn)> for one. Although for a lot less $$ I could buy a Haynes or Chilton version> but I'm told the OEM version is much more detailed and easy to> cross-reference, especially on parts numbers. Still, that's a lot of dough> for any manual.>> Does anyone know of other sources of OEM manuals besides Toyota where I can> obtain one for less ? Much appreciated !
 Downey Off-Road Mfg. sells the OEM repair manuals at a regular retail
 price but it may be cheaper to get them mail order from Downey than
 locally in Canada.
 562/949-9494
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Toyota Std. Bed 4WD
 Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com
 ************************************************************************
 TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
 Visit http://www.off-road.com Putting Off-Road, Online!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 17:54:57 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Oxygen sensor Check
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Tim Norstad  asked:
 I was wondering if anyone has experience checking the oxygen sensor
 using the diagnostic port.  Can a voltage reading be taken off of the Ox
 connector?  SNIP
 - ----
 Yes - you can connect a voltmeter to the Ox and Grnd connector in the
 test port - or you can tap ino the wires at the Ox sensor
 (on later model 22REs - under the drivers seat)
 Look for a scrolling voltage approx 0 to 1 volt.
 You can pay $100 or more for a simple LED meter - get the cheapest
 there is becuase the Ox sensor really meaures only two values -
 rich and lean. The ones that have all sorts of colors
 and stuff - are just for looks.
 THERE IS NO CORRELATION BETWEEN THE VOLTAGE AND HOW RICH/LEAN
 THE READING IS!!
 The Ox sensor can tell you only that the mixture is rich or lean!
 It can NOT tell you that the air fuel ratio is 14:1 versus 16:1!
 Thus, the brand *H* meter that has the 30 LEDs on it - bunch of %$#@!
 But hey - if you thik it looks cooler - go buy it.
 Here's a web site that tells you how to make your own:
 http://www.students.tut.fi/~eppu/dev/EGO-bar.html
 For more *interesting* EFI readings - here's another site:
 http://www.supras.com/m_offer2.html
 Now - there are meters that *can* tell you what the air fuel
 ratio is - *exactly* and they cost $$$
 Horibida and Motec have 'em. The *special* O2 sensor
 used cost about $300.
 There has been discussion of a way to get two regular 02
 sensors to give a faily accurate reading - but that
 dicussion ranks up there with "how to make my 2WD into 4WD" -
 If you have to ask - you cant do it.
 Speaking of *honest* 02 meters - I believe that either MSD or
 Eldebrock made a meter that had *only* 2 leds - red and green.
 Now that was being honest (but probably everyone bought the
 meters that had 10 LEDs).
 Make sure that any volt meter you use has a fairly high input
 impedence - most "digital" meters should be OK for that.
 Basicaly - as the 02 meter weras out it gets "lazy" - i.e.
 it does NOT scroll back and forth very quickly.
 I hav replaced meters with over 100K mile son them and have
 notice NO difference in apprent driveability or fuel economy.
 If the 02 sensor is "broken" it probably wont register a
 voltage or "stick" in a certain voltage. Jim Brink would
 know more about this than I.
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 17:46:14 -0800
 From: Chris Stull  Subject: Performance Products???
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have an '88 Toy with 31" tires and in about a month a rebuilt
 stock 22-RE! I have some questions about some performance products I
 found in a magizine. I don't really want lockers or a winch but I had
 some other things that I was wondering about. First, I know lower gear
 ratios are a big helper. As I said I have 31" tires and it has a table
 for gear ratios to tire size...it says I should get 4.56 gears ($220
 plus kit with gaskets and bearings-$139 and installation). Is it worth
 the extra five or dollars (according to the magizine) to get 5.71 if I'm
 not planning on upping the tire size? Do I have to get the gears for
 both the rear and front (IFS)? They also have sway bar polyurethane
 bushings said to improve handling for $21.90. Is it worth it? Jacob's
 Ultra Coil is listed at $141.90...does it do all it says it does? For
 the money it costs, is it worth it? Lastly, I found a Dynomax Super
 Turbo for $149.50. I have a new plain jane muffler and I was wondering
 if it was worth the switch. Thanks for any replies.
 - -Chris-
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 17:05:52 -0600 (CST)
 From: "Bruce Burden"  Subject: Performance Products???
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>     I have an '88 Toy with 31" tires and in about a month a rebuilt> stock 22-RE! I have some questions about some performance products I> ratios are a big helper. As I said I have 31" tires and it has a table> for gear ratios to tire size...it says I should get 4.56 gears ($220> If the table lists 4.56, you don't want 5.71. 4.88 perhaps.
 Talk to other Toy owners with 31's and a 22RE, and see what
 they run.>> Do I have to get the gears for> both the rear and front (IFS)?> If you plan to use 4WD, yes.>> ? Lastly, I found a Dynomax Super> Turbo for $149.50.> I don't think just changing the muffler is worth anything.
 Changing the entire exhaust system from the cat back, yes.
 Else... shrug.
 Bruce
 - --
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bruce Burden            bruceb@isd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
 512-432-8944            Network Verification          14231 Tandem Blvd.
 Auto answer(4 rings)                                  Austin, TX 78726
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 18:34:30 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: Performance Products???
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Mon, 16 Mar 1998, Bruce Burden wrote:>>>>     I have an '88 Toy with 31" tires and in about a month a rebuilt>> stock 22-RE! I have some questions about some performance products I>>> ratios are a big helper. As I said I have 31" tires and it has a table>> for gear ratios to tire size...it says I should get 4.56 gears ($220>>> 	If the table lists 4.56, you don't want 5.71. 4.88 perhaps.>     Talk to other Toy owners with 31's and a 22RE, and see what>     they run.
 stick w/ the 4:10's assuming that's what you have. If you have to ask,
 you don't need them. People, stop buying stuff for the hell of it! What a
 waste. If you want to buy cool accessories...send me an ARB! I would use it.
 Jon Brandt
 p.s. your speedo will be slightly off, big deal...figure it out and
 compensate, so you don't get tickets. Probably off by about 12%, but
 figure this into the milage part of the equation for correction.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:55:50 -0600 (CST)
 From: flip@dfwmm.net
 Subject: Please take me off of your contact list.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 12:30 AM 3/4/98, you wrote:
 Please take me off of your contact list.
 Thank-you.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 12:22:18 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: rear suspension ideas
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Say you want to play with a Toy IFS.
 TonkaTuf3 is going this route. Check the post in the back issues. I have
 converted a few toys using the Jag rearend, which also has inboard
 disks. It's a relativly simple swap.
 James Stevenson (TonkaTuf)
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 19:48:13 -0700
 From: Rob Boyle  Subject: rear suspension ideas
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I was wondering if anyone has explored the option of moving the rear
 springs closer together. meaning new spring mounting points fabbed on
 the inside of the frame rail, rather then under the frame rail. this
 combined with new perches welded on the axle housing. This would allow
 more travel  out of a given spring wouldn't it? Also, would it be doable
 to cut out part of the box frame where the back tires rub, if you
 reenforce it on the other, inboard side. I'm picturing 3x4 square tubing
 welded to the inside of the frame rail with spring and shackle mounts on
 this. any thoughts on this?
 Rob Boyle
 85 4runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 18:19:40 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: Repair Manuals
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 James Volkerts wrote:>> I'm having problems with the A/T (A340H) in my 85 XtraCab and I'm having> a problem finding the correct repair manuals.>> Does anyone out there have a manual that contains a troubleshooting> section for a A340H or A340E ECT (electronically controlled trans)? If> you have the manual would you please let me know the publication numbers> or other identifying characteristics that will enable me to purchase the> correct manual?
 I can get you the publication part number and ordering information
 tomarrow P.M.
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Toyota Std. Bed 4WD
 Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com
 ************************************************************************
 TLCA - Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) - CA4WDC
 Visit http://www.off-road.com Putting Off-Road, Online!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 15:20:18 -0800
 From: "Dave Smith"  Subject: Tacoma Grille
 To:  If you look in the owners manual that came with the truck, it specifies
 where the screws are for the bugger.  There seems to be at least a half
 dozen at the top right when you open the hood.  Thats about all I can
 remember off hand.
 Dave Smith
 dsmith@addicted.com
 1997 Tacoma 4x4 X-Cab LX V6
 Date: Sat, 14 Mar 98 20:51:46 -0700
 From: "Brent M. Dombrowski"  Subject: Tacoma Front Grill
 To: "Toy4x4"  I've got a '97 Tacoma, V6, extra cab.  I would like to take the front
 grill off to get to the horn.  I poked and prodded, but could not figure
 out how to get the grill off.  Anybody out there know?
 bd
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 15:26:41 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: tires fitting & 1" body lift Q
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>  Chris, I know several people would swear that you can't fit 33"s on a> Toy by just turning the T bars & a 1" lift  :)
 Yah and people said I could not take my truck on the Rubicon too!
 BTW to fit 33" tires on my truck required fender triming (I still need to trim
 more off). Please don't anyone think that you can just put a set of 33" tires on
 with just a 1" body lift. There were a lot of considerations, triming and modifing
 to do, it's not just 1" and put on the 33" tires. When I get all the bugs worked
 out and the exact amount to be trimed off I plan to create a "how to get 33" tires
 on you toyota using only a 1" body lift and replacement springs" web page. I have
 also found that the adjustment of the tbars can help for clearence but does not
 make room for larger tires. It's best to remove the tbar adjuster and see what
 happens when the tire goes all the way up into the fender well. If you hit
 somthing with this test, it's only going to be worse off-road!
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 20:11:01 -0700
 From: Allan Davis  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #765
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My OME kit cost roughly $1250 for 4 springs, shocks, new greaseable
 shackles, greaseable pins for the other side of the springs, a steering
 stabilizer, and U-bolts.
 I believe the truck was raised about 2" over stock.  I can't be certain
 because my 15 year old springs were sagged, broken, and generally in
 poor shape.
 Allan
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:41:55 -0800
 From: David Gibbs  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #767
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 David Gibbs Wrote: On my 88 V6 the local (Sacramento, CA) Toy dealer
 informed me
 that they will replace it free every 80k...
 Does this depend on mileage or what?  Why would they do this?  I'm not
 complaining,  it just sounds too good to be true.
 Kevin, my truck had over 100k on it when I had it done.  The dealer was
 not very clear on why.  I have 2 guesses of my own:  either the life of
 this part was inadequate and caused emissions problems, or it is related
 to the exorbitant price and lack of aftermarket support.  This also may
 apply to the 4 cyl. sensor.  Both 88 trucks I have owned (4 and 6 cyl)
 had the 4 wire sensor.   David
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 14:19:05 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: travel
 To:  I just ordered new mounts for longer rear springs and I would like to know
 what people payed for their rear longer springs, wether it was pick n pull,
 wreckers, etc.  I am leaning toward the T100 springs but I have no idea how
 I can get my hands on a set, any chance anyone out there has some that they
 replaced?
 For the front I would like to get some X012 rancho's but I can't decide
 between the 5's and 9's - opinions?  Has anyone put shock hoops on their
 toys?  I can't decide whether to fab something out of channesl or have
 someone bend some hoops and tie them together over the engine.  I need
 longer shocks and I figure I might as well get the longest while I am at it.
 Thanks!
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
 Brandon Miller
 Sacramento CA
 email - miller@csus.edu
 home page - http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb
 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 18:26:48 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jon Brandt  Subject: travel
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The adjustable shocks can come in handy when you're messing around
 experimenting with spring rates, lift hights, ect.
 The gas shocks offer better control, even for the same stiffness of oil.
 But you don't always need DAMN stiff shocks, like on the road.
 I had 5000, now have 9000's all around. I really loved them at first.
 Then aI thought they were gimicky, cause settings 1 and 5 are useless
 extremes. I still like them, though, cause I wouldn't want the high
 setting ALL the time. They could improve them though, scrap the 1&5 and
 make the settings closer together.
 Has anyone tried the adjustable Doesch Techs?
 Jon Brandt
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 18:46:18 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: travel
 To:  So you think that they are worth the extra $ over the 5000's?
 Keep in mind my suspension is fairly stiff so 1 and possiblly 2 would be
 useless
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Jon Brandt  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Monday, March 16, 1998 6:28 PM
 Subject: Re: travel>The adjustable shocks can come in handy when you're messing around>experimenting with spring rates, lift hights, ect.>>The gas shocks offer better control, even for the same stiffness of oil.>>But you don't always need DAMN stiff shocks, like on the road.>>I had 5000, now have 9000's all around. I really loved them at first.>Then aI thought they were gimicky, cause settings 1 and 5 are useless>extremes. I still like them, though, cause I wouldn't want the high>setting ALL the time. They could improve them though, scrap the 1&5 and>make the settings closer together.>>Has anyone tried the adjustable Doesch Techs?>>Jon Brandt
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 20:03:50 -0600 (CST)
 From: Tony Do  Subject: Uh-oh..
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Oh no, guys..
 I took out the TPS on my '86 22RE to check it out, but after I put it back
 on and started the truck, it accelerates *real* roughly, I mean, it
 idles putt-1/2 second-putt..  (slightly exaggerated, for lack of better
 detail.)  But I can't imagine it being driveable like this.  What did I
 do?  I'm panicking now because if my dad finds out I ruined it he'll kill
 me!!
 How can I fix this?  I *really* need a way out this time.
 Thanks,
 Tony
 _____
 __  /_______ _______ _____  __   Tony Do - Franklin, WI USA
 _  __/_  __ \__  __ \__  / / /   e-mail
 / /_  / /_/ /_  / / /_  /_/ /    ... tonyd@execpc.com  [home]
 \__/  \____/ /_/ /_/ _\__, /         mr2td@hotmail.com [away]
 /____/      WWW site
 ... http://www.execpc.com/~tonyd
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 19:07:51 -0500
 From: schein@juno.com (Dan Schein)
 Subject: wanted: LockRight
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Does anyone have a new/used LockRight to fit the rear of my 86 4x4 Hilux
 that they want to sell?
 - -Dan
 - --
 Dan Schein Esq. -=- schein@juno.com -=- Reading, PA USA
 http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/1978
 Member of TLCA (#6687) and the Keystone Cruisers chapter
 Proud owner of Jo, a 1978 Fj40 Toyota LandCruiser
 86 Hilux, 73 Hurst/Olds, 88 Honda Civic, 93 Pontiac Transport
 _____________________________________________________________________
 You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
 Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
 Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 18:33:31 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: wanted: LockRight
 To:  Got one for the front in the diff with new 5.29's and actually it is an EZ
 locker if you are interested.....
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Dan Schein  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Monday, March 16, 1998 6:26 PM
 Subject: wanted: LockRight>Does anyone have a new/used LockRight to fit the rear of my 86 4x4 Hilux>that they want to sell?>>-Dan>-->Dan Schein Esq. -=- schein@juno.com -=- Reading, PA USA>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/1978>Member of TLCA (#6687) and the Keystone Cruisers chapter>Proud owner of Jo, a 1978 Fj40 Toyota LandCruiser>86 Hilux, 73 Hurst/Olds, 88 Honda Civic, 93 Pontiac Transport>>_____________________________________________________________________>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]> ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:55:31 -0500
 From: Darren Floen  Subject: wanted: LockRight
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, miller@csus.edu
 Nevermind,Brandon.Now i see that it's for a 7.5............
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 18:21:59 -0800
 From: Jim Brink  Subject: water pump for 22R-TEC
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Agustinus Gunawan wrote:>> I need to replace my water pump soon.> I called a local Toyota dealer, they said remanufactured water pump for 22R-TEC was not available. Only for 22RE are available.
 They are the same regardless of turbo, nor. asp., or EFI/CARB.
 - --
 Jim Brink, Toyota/ASE Certified Technician	1986 Toyota Std. Bed 4WD
 Manhattan Beach, CA				32x11.50/15 BFG M/Ts
 ToyTech@Off-Road.com
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