Toy4x4 Digest          Fri,  6 Mar 98 12:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 747
 Today's Topics:
 2wd rear spring plates/ u-bolts
 92 4Runner rewiring... (2 msgs)
 95 1/2 Tacoma for sale
 A-C
 ADMIN: & Beach stuff - take it private already!
 E-Mail Address Change
 Exhaust noise (2 msgs)
 Front Drive Shaft
 Heater Options (3 msgs)
 K&N Filters
 My passenger door handle won't work
 Mystery Emision Fitting
 Near Roll over, animated gif
 noises
 Platinum Plugs
 recall
 Roof Rack
 Seat belt locking up
 Sticking Windows
 stuff I see for sale
 Subject: Gasoline.....THE FINAL WORD(S)
 TJM Bumpers (2 msgs)
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #745
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #746  Bad vibes
 Which Lift??? (3 msgs)
 WHO'S GOT GAS?
 Why bother with high octane gas?
 Years & Gears (2 msgs)
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 15:38:00 -0600
 From: Mark Kitlinski  Subject: 2wd rear spring plates/ u-bolts
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org" > I plan to flip my u-bolts soon and was thinking of welding a mount to> the front of the axle tube, but want to see Brandon's idea first before> I decide.>> Jay Kopycinski    '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 I mounted mine more along the lines that you hinted at above.  Mine are
 actually on top of the axle, but if you wanted to run Rancho 9012's (I'm only
 running 10 inch travel ones, I forget the number off hand) you could probably
 move it down a bit and fit them in.  I have a couple of pics of the rear end
 on my homepage, I think you can see it pretty well.
 That swap would probably go good with your 2wd Mazda springs, as you can get
 tons of travel out of the shock by laying it down like that.
 - --
 Mark Kitlinski
 '85 Xtra cab
 Kitlinski@worldnet.att.net
 http://www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/2580/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 07:00:09 -0800
 From: "Farrales, Deo"  Subject: 92 4Runner rewiring...
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Hey guys,
 I posted this message yesterday on the OFC BB I didn't get much response
 (yeah, I know, I should've posted hear first but I was at my girlfriends
 house and she doesn't get this mailing list)
 Well, here's what I'm trying to do... (BTW, I have a 92 Runner)I want
 to have full time power to my CB and power windows.  As per Chris
 Geiger's
 suggestion (thanks again Chris!), I purchased a seperate fuse box to
 connect directly to the battery.  Now, that leads me to my two
 questions:
 (Remember that this is coming from a very electrically UNeducated person
 :-) )
 - -  What's the best way to run the wire from the battery, through the
 firewall, into the truck?  I followed the wires that go inside the truck
 and they seem to go through a rubber boot thingy that, I guess, protects
 the inside of the truck for stuff like engine noise.  Is it as easy
 as running the new wire through this rubber boot into the inside of
 the truck.  If so, where does that lead to? (seems like somewhere behind
 the glove compartment)  Is it easy to access? Someone mentioned to me
 that they ran a wire throught the firewall by following the hood release
 cable.
 - -  Chris told me that, for the power windows, I need to cut the black
 w/ orange stripe wire that comes from the relay in the driver's side
 kick panel and wire it into the new fuse box. Well, I was looking at
 my Chilton's (saving up so I can buy Toyota's repair manual) and it
 shows the power widow/lock master switch leading to the door control
 relay then connecting to the intergration relay with the black/orange
 wire.  Is this the wire?  This is where I get lost in the electronic
 terminology.  The integration relay shows it connecting to a 10A fuse.
 Is the the integration relay the fuse box?  If so, then I was looking
 at the correct wire.  It is the black with orange stripe wire connecting
 to the top of the fuse box (with a few other wires in the same
 vicinity).
 (please respond directly as well as to the list... I'm in digest :-) )
 Excuse my electronic ignorance, but I'm trying :-)  I'd appreciate any
 advice given.  Thanks...
 ~~Deo ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 11:12:47 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: 92 4Runner rewiring...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, Deo@Guittard.com>  What's the best way to run the wire from the battery, through the> firewall, into the truck?
 There is a small hole near the where the steering wheel goes through the
 fire wall, poke a hole in the black plastic insert and run your wires
 through there. I have a bout 15 wires going through that one hole on my
 truck.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 13:23:48 PST
 From: "Terry Parker"  Subject: 95 1/2 Tacoma for sale
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I hate to sell this truck but getting married and need to get a more
 roomy vehicle. What would be a good asking price for this truck? Any
 help or offers would be greatly appreciated.
 95 1/2 Tacoma LX
 Black w/ Oak interior
 50K miles
 3.4l v6 extra cab 4wd
 Downey 3" lift front and rear
 K&N air filter
 Smittybuilt dual tube rear bumber w/ trailer hitch
 Genuine Toyota bed liner and bug shield
 All black genuine Toyota paint including bumpers and grill (Custom
 painted)
 no chrome
 32"x11.50 BFG A/T's on 8" Eagle aluminum 5 spoke wheels
 Kenwood AM/FM cassette w/ 10 disk cd player
 2 100W Kenwood amps
 Boston accoustics 6 1/2" speakers w/ separate tweeters in front
 Mpact 10" bass w/ mid range speakers in rear
 Complete alarm system w/ keyless entry
 Excelent truck, have had no problems what so ever.
 Make an offer and I will reluctantly consider.
 I paid 19.5K off the showroom floor, all customizing came later.
 What should I ask for it?
 Terry Parker  Mesquite Tx.
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 06:31:34 -0500
 From: Ed Ruf  Subject: A-C
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 07:57 PM 3/5/98 -0600, Robert Stein illustriously expounded:>>Hit A-C button next to fan speed lever and it lights up when the fan>comes on. Compressor doesn't :(>I've checked the fuse, it's good, hot wired the compressor clutch and>it's good.>Anyone have any suggestions on where to go now and what/where is this>A/C Amplifier it shows ? Might the problem be in there ?>It's coming up FAST on what looks like a H O T   Oklahoma summer and I'm>getting prepared early  ....
 I'd check:
 1. A/C amplifier setting. On my '86/'87s it's in the back of the glovebox.
 Just unsnap the cloth from the back of the glovebox from the dash. It's
 left of center just above the opening, IIRC. There's a small pot screw for
 adjustment. Hmmm, actually, unless it's REALLY out, you can check it
 another way. The amplifier sets the min rpm at which the compressor clutch
 will stay energized. Turn the fan and A/C on. Open the hood and the raise
 the engine rpmwith the throttle and look to see if the clutch engages.
 Otherwise, I don't remember which way the adjustment goes on the pot.
 2. Freon charge. There is a low pressure switch in the system. Below it's
 set pressure the clutch isn't allowed to be energized.
 Ed
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 10:56:08 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: ADMIN: & Beach stuff - take it private already!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Yeah, lets stop talking about irrelevant issues, like trail closures and
 lift laws and the like, and concentrate on issues that really matters to
 4wheelers, like stereos, thermostats and liftkits.....
 Excuse me....!
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	daves8@juno.com [SMTP:daves8@juno.com]> Sent:	Friday, March 06, 1998 12:49 AM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	Re: ADMIN: & Beach stuff - take it private already!>> Proper 4x4 etiquette is not appropriate to a 4x4 list?>> Sorry, I don't see that one.......>>> Dave Schoenberg, Arvada, Colorado-----Who else gives advice like> this???> '81 Toy/'86 EFI engine/5-spd/xfer--an' I did it all myself, with NO> Liquid Nails!!> Brakes and heater both work exceedingly well, thank you.> Thank You for subscribing to "Dave's Automotively Mechanical Humor> Line".> DaveS8@Juno.com>>> On Thu, 5 Mar 1998 00:45:41 EST   writes:>>In a message dated 98-03-04 22:51:44 EST, you write:>>> Why is this discussion no longer heading anywhere?>>DRM033 answers:>>........... In the list rules, it says that this is a TOYOTA list,> and> we should "try" to stick to this topic.  If it goes too far from this> and/or is no longer relevant to the list, it should be taken private.> Simple.  This discussion has gone to just a difference of opinions> -one> side says he was right, another says he was wrong.  I don't see where> this is going anywhere, and is not relevant to the majority of the> list.>>>> _____________________________________________________________________> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 10:34:18 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: E-Mail Address Change
 To: charley@arriscom.net, , jlc@boullion.com,
 Please note that my e-mail address will now be eli@computeralt.com
 It has been emadden@inacom-vt.com
 Yes, this is a mass mailer so I apologize if you received it in error.
 Thanks
 Eli Madden
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 10:05:22 -0500
 From: redline1@juno.com (Kurt m Steiger)
 Subject: Exhaust noise
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hey guys (& GALS)  I have a problem w/ my exhaust!  When the motor is
 cold my exhaust sounds like there isn't a manifold on the engine at all.
 I had a pin hole in my other system right where the collector is, this
 truck i can't find a hole anywhere.  Anyone got an idea what my problem
 is.  I am considering a complete new system if i have a bad manifold
 gasket or pipe.  I need to keep the convertor and also want to keep the
 cost low.  Would love some feed back on what to use ( how much can i do
 myself ie. no welding) no problem doing the bolt on thing.  AND the
 bright side to all this is i get a new exhaust and my wife is none the
 wiser on the costs involved.
 thanx in advance!
 _____________________________________________________________________
 You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
 Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
 Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 13:35:00 -0800
 From: "Smith, Patrick S."  Subject: Exhaust noise
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  One way to hunt down exhaust leaks is to partially block the tail pipe (not
 enough to stall it) and then put A FEW DROPS of auto tranny fluid (ATF) in
 through the carb.  Unlike oil, ATF produces a whiter smoke and makes it
 easier to spot leaks.  Works best if you have another set of eyes watching
 the exhaust from underneath.
 ----------
 From: redline1@juno.com
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Subject: Exhaust noise
 Date: Thursday, March 05, 1998 7:05AM
 Hey guys (& GALS)  I have a problem w/ my exhaust!  When the motor is
 cold my exhaust sounds like there isn't a manifold on the engine at all.
 I had a pin hole in my other system right where the collector is, this
 truck i can't find a hole anywhere.  Anyone got an idea what my problem
 is.  I am considering a complete new system if i have a bad manifold
 gasket or pipe.  I need to keep the convertor and also want to keep the
 cost low.  Would love some feed back on what to use ( how much can i do
 myself ie. no welding) no problem doing the bolt on thing.  AND the
 bright side to all this is i get a new exhaust and my wife is none the
 wiser on the costs involved.
 thanx in advance!
 _____________________________________________________________________
 You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
 Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
 Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 98 12:16:44 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: Front Drive Shaft
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>I goofed.....should be:>'80     4.37
 OK, does anyone with an '80 have a set of gears that you have taken out in
 favor of a lower set ??  I'd like to buy a set of 4.37's if anyone has 'em.
 - - Brian
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 06:49:20 -0500
 From: Chris Knight  Subject: Heater Options
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"  Does anyone know what kind of heaters were used on VW and Porsche
 vehicles? Since these were air cooled I might be able to use the heater
 off one of them. If anyone has knowledge of this It would really be
 helpfull.
 Thanks in advance!!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 12:45:22 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Heater Options
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The myths state that the old VW didn't get warn until after about 1 hour
 of driving......;-))
 Runar> -----Original Message-----> From:	Chris Knight [SMTP:Ckhone@concentric.net]> Sent:	Friday, March 06, 1998 11:49 AM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	Heater Options>> Does anyone know what kind of heaters were used on VW and Porsche> vehicles? Since these were air cooled I might be able to use the> heater> off one of them. If anyone has knowledge of this It would really be> helpfull.> Thanks in advance!!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 09:19:07 -0500
 From: "wolfer1"  Subject: Heater Options
 To:  Chris wrote:
 Does anyone know what kind of heaters were used on VW and Porsche
 vehicles?
 The VW's used 2 different types of heaters. They had heat exchange
 box's which were the stock exhaust manifold. These always leaked and
 you had the smell of the exhaust in the VW. The other type was a gas
 heater. I hope this helps
 Domenick
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 08:45:03 -0800
 From: Dan Merrick  Subject: K&N Filters
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>------------------------------
 I have had a K&N stock replacement filter in my truck for a few years now.
 I am happy with the performance, though the performance gains were minimal
 on my 22R. It will save you money in the long run, as you can clean,
 re-oil, and re-use the filter forever. They also have a million
 mile/lifetime warranty. When a K&N filter is very dirty, it still flows
 better than say, a Fram filter. The massive K&N filterchargers (like Downey
 sells) work well too, especially with a cam and exhaust mods. But those
 kits are $$$ and aren't good in deep water, as well as making your truck
 louder, since you can hear the air entering the filter because you have
 eliminated the air box.>>do the K&N filters make that much of a difference? I am thinking of =>getting one if the response is positive... Thanks!> ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 10:03:32 -0600
 From: "B. Baldwin, BWSC Marketing"  Subject: My passenger door handle won't work
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  I just got my '88 pickup and the passenger door won't open from the inside.
 It works fine from the outside. It feels exactly the same as the driver's
 handle (the same tension, etc.), but it doesn't open the door. Taking the
 door panel off didn't reveal the problem. Any suggestions?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 10:44:43 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: Mystery Emision Fitting
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Ok, here's a tough one......
 I'm reconnecting all the hoses and wires on my '87 22R.
 I know where everything goes except for one part.
 There is a brass hose connection, about as big around as a
 pencil and an inch long. It is just to the right of the carb as
 you stand in front of the vehicle and face the engine. I know
 it used to have a hose on it because it isn't dirty.
 Also, I broke the top connection off the red plastic BVSV (?) valve.
 At least I think that's what it is. It has three small hoses that connect to it,
 one on top, and two on one side. Anybody know what the full name
 of this thing is so I can buy the part somewhere? Do I even need that
 top connection?
 Thanks in advance! Please e-mail me direct at emadden@inacom-vt.com
 as I am in digest mode and I could really use an answer before the weekend.
 Thanks!
 Eli Madden
 Williston, Vermont
 '83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4 w/31s and 189,000+ Miles
 emadden@inacom-vt.com
 New e-mail address will be
 eli@computeralt.com starting 3/6/98
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 11:58:22 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Near Roll over, animated gif
 To: Toy 4x4 List  I FINALLY got the video that the guy shot of me doing my little stunt on
 Truck Hill many moons ago.   It's now an animated gif, so you guys can
 check it out.
 For lack of a better place I put it on top of the 'Hollister - March 1'
 trip report.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__       Scott Wilson TLCA #5261  CA4WDC #13393
 | _     _ :     88 4Runner SR5 V6
 */_\---/_\'     Santa Clara, CA
 (_)   (_)      http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 07:43:18 -0700
 From: "Jeffery Zicko"  Subject: noises
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 hello everybody
 I just wanted to thank every one that confirmed it was my
 u-joints.  I replaced the joint i thought it was coming from and now
 my toy is running better then ever.  The old joints caps were rusted
 and the needle bearings were all messed up.  it seems like the truck
 has a bit more kick then it did and i don't even have to press on the
 gas very hard. So thanks again for the reply's.
 jeff zicko
 jzicko@alert.alert.com
 92' toy 4X4 extnd cab p/u
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 08:28:55 -0500
 From: "John Aird"  Subject: Platinum Plugs
 To: "Toyota Mail List"  Ok here is one for all you Engine techs.
 I took my 95 V6 4runner to the dealer for the 30k check up,( I know Dealer
 is bad but it is under warranty still) among the list of stuff they checked
 was to replace the Plugs. I asked if Platinum plugs could be put in and they
 told me No. They said the heat range was not right. Now I know ive heard
 some of the Toyota guys out there that are running these platinum plugs,
 what's the Deal? Is the dealer full of it??
 Thanks,
 John Aird
 jaird@vwc.edu
 Computer Services
 Virginia Wesleyan College
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 13:49:09 -0500 (EST)
 From: The Extreme  Subject: recall
 To: 4x4 list  There was a question about a recall for a truck in here I read, I had mine
 recalled, a 1991 4x4 v-6, it took about 2 days or so and it runs like gold
 now, so anyone fitting the recall years of I guess it is 1990 to 1995
 with a v-6 engine make an appointment and take it in, it is worth it for
 free.......they may try and tell you there are other things wrong with the
 truck, but it is also wise to get all the belts replaced and most of the
 fluids checked while they have the engine apart anyway.....that is about
 it..anyone with questions please email me....
 also, what is a good replacement exhaust for a truck, and I want more
 horsepower without having to put on headers, any exhausts out there for
 me???
 Patrick Gers
 pgers@orion.ramapo.edu
 1991 4x4 V-6
 Grizzly Double/Single roll bars
 Ram nerf bars
 Manik full brush guard
 Rancho RS 5000 shocks
 Hella 500 driving lights
 Bushwacker Flares
 31-11.50 Yokohama Super Digger V's
 Alloy American Racing Rims 15x8
 GTS Headlight/Tailight blackouts
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 10:47:25 -0800
 From: "Richard Aguinsky"  Subject: Roof Rack
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 greg: i normally drive a toyota camry and have my 4 runner for fun and
 mainly for work.
 last year i rebuilt the roof on my house and i brought ALL the materials
 on my 4 runner little by little.
 the 4x8 plywood went on the roof. I have some tulhe bars, i mounted
 one on the metal cabin, forward, close to the windshield and the other
 on the fiberglass gutter.
 I loaded the plywood so the mayority of the weight would be forward
 and the rear one to hold in place. no problem.
 when i got home, i would climb on the fiberglass roof and put the
 plywood on the roof of the house.
 the only damage i did, was that the metal roof is higher than the
 gutters and i made some dents on the metal because i had the
 wrong tuhle racks (from my previous renault fuego).
 and if anybody is wondering about the weight: go to home depo and get
 15 4x8' 1/2" roofing plywood, the scattered-glued type which is heavier.
 and if anybody is wondering for MORE weight, lower the rear seat and
 fill it up with shingles, i believe that i fitted 17 bundles of
 30 year asphalt shingles. the rear was at the lower limit, the
 tires were half way down by the weight.
 this truck is tough!!!!!
 rich
 '87 4 runner
 191000 miles young
 Greg wrote:
 I have an '88 4Runner, and I am thinking of putting a rack on it.  I
 already have some gutter-mount cross bars for it, and was going to put
 the
 rack on top of the bars.  My question is, how strong are the gutter
 rails
 on the fiberglass top?  Will I break them by putting some gear and a
 bike
 on top?  What have you other 1st gen. 'Runner guys done?  I'm not in
 favor
 of mounting a rack through the top with bolts.
 Thanks,
 - -Greg
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 05 Mar 1998 08:16:22 -0500
 From: Bob Bascom  Subject: Seat belt locking up
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 
 Afonso, Carlos M wrote:>> I'm having a problem with my seat belt locking up on me at any time, and> worse is that when I let it in to get it to unlock it won't release, so I> have to undo the belt and let it all back in and then try again.  It's> becoming a big pain to have to take my belt off and on over and over before> it finally releases, but it isn't long before it locks up again.  Did I> mention that this all happens as I'm just driving along and not braking.  If> any one can help, please do, I hate driving without a seat belt.>> --Carlos
 Take apart the rathet part at the bottom and see if there is anything
 stuck in it. My belt used to do that till I found out there was a marble
 lodeged in the ratchet part.
 Ryan
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 11:22:45 -0600
 From: "Tong, Donald L"  Subject: Sticking Windows
 To: "'bmiranda@loudoun.com'" ,
 Bill,
 I read your post in the Toy 4x4 Digest.  Sorry, but I don't have a
 definitive answer.  I can, however, commiserate with you.  I've been
 having the same problem with my '91 4R since September.  I thought it
 was a cold weather only problem, but when I started to take things apart
 on a warm day, it still happened intermittently.  I sure hope I'm right
 'cause I'm going to Mammoth next week and would hate to get caught with
 a rear window that won't come up.
 First, I assume you're having the problem regardless of whether you use
 the key switch or the switch on the center console.  If that's not the
 case, you might want to check the switches first.
 In my case, I know it's not the switches because it happens with both.
 I also know it's not the motor because I disconnected the motor and
 verified that on occasion, power was not being supplied by the relay.
 (On a '91, the relay is located behind the left-side panel, aft of the
 storage compartment.  I suspect a '90 would be identical.)  The relay
 unit is actually about six relays, and the dealer charges $300 for a new
 unit.
 If you play with it and listen carefully, when you activate the window
 to go one direction, you'll hear two clicks from the relays.  When going
 the other direction, you'll only hear one.  (I think it's one click
 going up and two coming down, but I could have it backwards)  This is
 normal, because the "default" when power is applied to the window is to
 raise(?) the window.  When lowering the window, the second click is a
 second relay being activated to reverse the polarity of the power going
 to the motor.
 Since that second relay is about the only thing I see different about
 whether the window is going up or down,  I think the problem is
 oxidation on the contacts of that second relay.  I really have nothing
 better to explain it.
 I've got the Toyota manual and therefore have the wiring diagrams and
 diagnostic procedure.  What I really don't like is that (a) the
 diagnostic procedure for the relay is "check the rest of the wiring, and
 if it's okay, then the problem is the relay", and (b) the relay is shown
 in the schematic as a black box.  However, knowing what's supposed to
 happen when, I figure that as a last resort I can build and wire in my
 own relay box.
 If you have need of the schematics and diagnostic procedures, send me a
 fax number.
 Donald Tong
 donald.tong@unisys.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 10:26:58 -0600
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: stuff I see for sale
 To:  I don't know anyone selling these parts or anything about them ... blah ...
 blah
 8" 3rd Member 4:10 gears($75)
 http://www.classified2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P12+C239+A0+R11070+Q54495904
 Misc. Engine parts (good prices $10-100):
 http://www.classified2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P12+C239+A0+R9176+Q54495904
 81 Tranny & Transfer case ($150)
 http://www.classified2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P12+C239+A0+R12583+Q54495904
 89 rear axle (description leads me to believe it's complete hub to hub for
 $100)
 http://www.classified2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P12+C239+A0+R9067+Q54495904
 - jack
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 08:47:03 -0500
 From: Randall_Gary@tmac.com
 Subject: Subject: Gasoline.....THE FINAL WORD(S)
 To: Toyota Users Group >>if oxygenation has the negative effect on mileage that I have read about.
 YES!
 Gary Randall -- Brunswick, Maine
 '85 2200 RE
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 09:15:34 -0500 (EST)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: TJM Bumpers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I want to take advantage of the 15% off offer at Performance Products and
 get a TJM front bumper. I am deciding between the steel TJM 13 ($689) or
 the aluminum TJM 13 ($1159) or 15 ($1059). My wife doesn't like the steel
 look and I don't like the way steel rusts in the northeast (US) at the
 first drop of salt on the road. I prefer the look of the 15 versus the 13.
 My wife likes the 13. My wallet likes the steel 13 ;-). However, the
 aluminum bumpers are about $500 more but are they worth it? Does anyone
 have one? Are people happy with the strength and durability of the steel
 ones (including its ability to not rust)?
 Any advice would be appreciated. The discount ends March 15. Quoted prices
 do not include the 15% off.
 Cheers,
 Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 Phone: (508) 856-3785
 Fax  : (508) 856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 11:58:55 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: TJM Bumpers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The Aluminum ones are for show (gotta have an extra brace just to support the
 winch).  If yuo plan to use it, get the steel.  I have the T17 steel with
 optional loop (loop attaches where the lights are in the pictires).  I love
 mine.  A friend has the T13 steel on his Ford Ranger & it looks pretty good.
 I like the flat front of mine cause when I am winching I can pull up to a tree
 & use it as a brace.
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 www.netmatter.com/traxx
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 In a message dated 98-03-06 09:21:59 EST, you write:> I want to take advantage of the 15% off offer at Performance Products and>  get a TJM front bumper. I am deciding between the steel TJM 13 ($689) or>  the aluminum TJM 13 ($1159) or 15 ($1059). My wife doesn't like the steel>  look and I don't like the way steel rusts in the northeast (US) at the>  first drop of salt on the road. I prefer the look of the 15 versus the 13.>  My wife likes the 13. My wallet likes the steel 13 ;-). However, the>  aluminum bumpers are about $500 more but are they worth it? Does anyone>  have one? Are people happy with the strength and durability of the steel>  ones (including its ability to not rust)?> ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 16 Feb 1998 15:20:25 -0500
 From: redline1@juno.com (Kurt m Steiger)
 Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #745
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 OK OK....
 Enough on the gas/water thing i run my truck till the trip odometer reads
 300miles which almost always equates to 15 gallons, way past the 1/4 tank
 thing.  I never have a problem of any sort.  Also the higher the octane
 the lower the combustion rate.  when the YOYO pings you are preigniting
 the gas so try a higher octane.  there is no cure for the
 humidity/condensation thing, you are gonna have water everywhere but
 outerspace.(& they think they found water on the moon now!)  Back in high
 school i worked in a full service station, anyway when the tanks get low
 or empty there is still several hundred gallons in the ground so you are
 not likely to get water in your tank.
 So i rambled enough.
 Kurt Steiger
 92 extra 4x4
 _____________________________________________________________________
 You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
 Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
 Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 12:31:15 -0800
 From: David Gibbs  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #746  Bad vibes
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Bad vibes- someone may have already mentioned this but here it is.  Try
 wiggling your drive shafts.  If they wiggle narrow it down to t-case
 output, slipyoke, or rear end.  Check all 4 rims for mud packed in.
 Have you done anything to the clutch or flywheel lately?
 David Gibbs
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 07:21:17 -0800
 From: Brian Gallus  Subject: Which Lift???
 To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Jacques Wrote:> I am looking into getting a suspension lift for my '94 std cab 4x4...> You can reply to me personally so the list doesn't get all tied up.  I> appreciate all suggestions .> Jon Responded:
 Be warned, these lifts arguably weaken the suspension and commonly
 develop alignment problems. They are also costly and involved. They are
 definately not a 2-3 bannana job.
 Sorry Jon, but I'd have to disagree!!!  I won't argue that these kits do
 put some more stress on *certain* components, but I don't think that
 it's necessarily safe to say that they "weaken the suspension".  Two
 reasons:
 The stock IFS Toy doesn't have a cross-member for the rear a-arm towers.
 This is a design flaw and often results in spreading of these mounts.
 Believe me, I've been there and they are a pain to straighten.  Both
 Rancho and Pro-Comp come with rear cross-members that arguably
 "strengthen" the frame.
 Secondly, some of these kits, at least the Rancho for sure, improve on
 the stock wheel geometry.  I can't speak in mechanics talk here, but
 I'll tell you that my 4Runner handles, drives, rides much better with
 the kit than w/o.  Aligments have NEVER been a problem (with the
 exception of the first alignment on my 86 - bent frame and poor
 alignment shop.  Fixed by another shop.) nor has steering or any other
 component.
 As for installation difficulty, I am by no means a mechanic.  I
 installed the Rancho kit with help from my father (who is no mechanic
 either - believe me... ) in four - five days taking our time (ie - one
 weekend and a couple of hours a night after work).  During that time I
 also installed new poly bushings in the lower control arms, new CV
 boots, inner tri-pod rebuild kit, extended breathers, new brakes,
 rotors, hubs, painted EVERYTHING (including the frame), low profile
 upper snubbers, etc.  Like I said, I'm NO mechanic, but I didn't find
 anything particularily difficult about the kit.  The instructions are
 decent and the most difficult aspect of installing the kit was getting
 the rusty bolts off the old components!!!  Other than drilling 5-6
 holes, everything is completely bolt on and relatively easy to do.
 Now, I'm not saying that anyone should go out and install a kit on their
 vehicle if they have absolutely no mechanical skills, but I don't think
 that we should scare people into thinking that it's harder than it
 really is.  If you take your time, pay attention to details and double
 check your work (and read the manual FIRST), I see no reason why this
 has to be a difficult job.
 just my opinion....
 bkg
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Gallus				87 4Runner SR5
 BrianGallus@DynaMark.com		33's, 4.88's, TrueTrac
 Vadnais Heights, MN			3" Rancho, 2" body
 Minnesota Toyx4's #95 /  MN4WDA  / TLCA #5581
 http://www.off-road.com/~MNTOYX4
 - ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 13:41:21 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: Which Lift???
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Fri, 6 Mar 1998, Brian Gallus wrote:> The stock IFS Toy doesn't have a cross-member for the rear a-arm towers.> This is a design flaw and often results in spreading of these mounts.
 I don't necessarily agree that this is a design flaw.  I've always thought
 that I would be more likely TO bend the A-arm mounts in if the rear
 cross member catches on something.  I guess it depends on what you're
 doing with your truck.   If you run dunes and jump all of the time, a
 rear cross-member might be a good idea, but I certainly wouldn't call
 not having one a "design flaw."
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                    Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5               (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 16:14:33 -0600 (CST)
 From: gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg S. Francis)
 Subject: Which Lift???
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>I don't necessarily agree that this is a design flaw.  I've always thought>that I would be more likely TO bend the A-arm mounts in if the rear>cross member catches on something.  I guess it depends on what you're>doing with your truck.   If you run dunes and jump all of the time, a>rear cross-member might be a good idea, but I certainly wouldn't call>not having one a "design flaw."> I am running the 3" Rancho IFS lift on my '88.  I find it hard to believe
 that catching the rear crossmember on any thing at a reasonable off-road
 speed would bend the a-arm pivots, that thing is sturdy.  What I would call
 a design flaw is that with the Rancho kit, the bottom of the front diff
 hangs about 1/8 inch below the front and rear crossmembers!  I had a
 special skid plate welded up that runs under the crossmembers and protects
 the diff.
 - -Greg
 Greg S. Francis
 University of Texas @ Austin
 School of Architecture
 gfrancis@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
 TLCA Member #5558
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 10:03:07 -0600
 From: john_j_harville@amoco.com
 Subject: WHO'S GOT GAS?
 To: Toy4X4@tlca.org
 Water will indeed lay on the bottom of your gas tank. Thanks, Ed Ruf
 for clearing this up. Thought this was a rudimentary fact that
 everyone knew. If it were the other way around, that Valdez' oil spill
 may have gone unnoticed for a while, eh? Anywho......you may rebut all
 you want about it. The fact remains that you should buy your gas from
 a reputable station (did someone say Amoco?) who maintains there
 systems(tanks, filters, water separators, etc) to avoid large doses of
 foreign matter(particulate, water, etc.) into your tank. Even if you
 get some......which is going to happen.....it's not the end of the
 world.... unless somehow you get so much water that the LEL(lower
 explosive limit) is such that when the fuel/air mixture is sprayed
 into your combustion chamber it will not ignite. This is not going to
 happen with a few drops here or there. You may get a hesitation or a
 miss that will possibly go unnoticed, but no "biggie".
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 08:01:58 -0800
 From: Barney McNamara  Subject: Why bother with high octane gas?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Barney missed again:>>I believe water floats on top of gas, and this wives tale is related>>not to crud at the bottom, but water on the top of a tank of gas.
 Ed responded:>It's the other way around. Many hyrocarbons are liter than water.>Remember an oil slick floats on top of water.
 Well, I'm wrong about the water on top of the gas, but I'll stick
 to my story about some impurities floating on the gas and getting
 sucked into the engine when the tank goes low. I don't consider it
 a problem to run my gas tank low, but I do try to minimize the
 number of gas stations I visit to reduce the chance of running into
 a station with a leaky tank, and contaminated gas.
 I also use the lowest octane I can buy that does not ping. I run 87
 in most of my cars, but one needs 89 to avoid pinging while climbing
 steep hills. My truck lumbers along just fine on 87.
 ______________________________________________________________
 Barney McNamara              JENNY - 83 Toyota Short Bed
 ( barney@flowpoint.com )     stock 22R motor ; 3" body lift
 Santa Cruz, Ca.              8" alloy rims; 31" BFG A/Ts
 homepage: http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/barnhome.htm
 ______________________________________________________________
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 16:36:21 EST
 From: DRM033  Subject: Years & Gears
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 With all this talk about gears, I was wondering if the package had anything to
 do with gear ratio's.  I have an 81 SR5 with all the best (22R & 5 speed) &
 those cool TRD colors.  I thought maybe that this package would have lower
 gears than what was listed (3.90's right?)
 I guess I will have to get dirty & just find out for myself.
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 www.netmatter.com/traxx
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 11:52:37 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Years & Gears
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> With all this talk about gears, I was wondering if the package had anything to> do with gear ratio's.  I have an 81 SR5 with all the best (22R & 5 speed) &> those cool TRD colors.  I thought maybe that this package would have lower> gears than what was listed (3.90's right?)>> I guess I will have to get dirty & just find out for myself.
 ...or you could read the axle code.... :)
 ------------------------------
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