Toy4x4 Digest          Thu, 12 Feb 98 12:30:03 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 709
 Today's Topics:
 3.0 Head gasket related questions...
 A couple of questions
 Annoying Sounds and Brake Light
 Another tow strap Q (2 msgs)
 Automatics, for Yuppies? I think So!
 automatics-manuals (2 msgs)
 Dan Quezada
 Diesel pump leak
 Downey Lift (2 msgs)
 electric cooling fans
 Emissions Control System
 Engine Swap
 Fw: Engine Swap
 GEARING SWAP Question (3 msgs)
 Hawse fairlead for Warn winch
 Help
 Inboard shocks?
 Intake manifold splooge 22R-E
 Leaking axle
 looking for photos (5 msgs)
 Manual Hubs
 manual hubs with ADD?
 Not the Pulley bearing
 On the tow strap thread (2 msgs)
 Performance Products
 Posi
 Problems w/shims (2 msgs)
 Sagging Rear (not a 4Runner!) (3 msgs)
 Scott: available 80's yoyos
 Snatch Strap Safety
 Snow ratings
 Stock Gearing (5 msgs)
 subscribe from mailing list
 The great auto vs. standard debate (2 msgs)
 towing
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #708
 Tranny lever hitting Transfer lever
 Using IFS lift parts in combination (2 msgs)
 which gasket?
 Winch Warn M5000
 xmission fluid
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 08:24:37 -0800
 From: "Wayne"  Subject: 3.0 Head gasket related questions...
 To:  Jason,
 Just got my 91 back from Toyota (head gasket had blown @ #6 cyl, water in
 oil, the whole bit) They put in the following parts under what they have
 listed as a KITSPA1..V6 Recall
 Gasket Kit, Cylinder                                               95.66
 F.I.P.G., Oil Pan
 10.02
 Wire, Sensor
 4.79
 Sensor, Knock Control                                           79.62
 Injector Set, Fuel
 158.48
 Shim, Valve Adjusting (a bunch of them)     (ea.)   4.18
 Seal, Valve Stem                         6 @ 3.28 & 6 @ 3.63
 Bolts (head)
 71.68
 Oil, antifreeze and some other misc stuff
 Additionally, I had them do the following:
 Water pump
 98.45
 Thermostat
 10.95
 Rad Cap
 15.65
 T-Belt Idler Bearing
 59.69
 T-Belt Tensioner
 91.26
 Crank Seal
 8.97
 Spark Plugs
 18.36
 They did not have to mill my heads or block. I had already had the timing
 belt done and I had to have my exhaust manifolds done a couple years ago.
 Had the work done at Riverside Toyota in So. Calif. Hope this gives you (and
 others) some of the info on head gasket replacement.
 Wayne 91 x-cab 3.0L>At 88K my 93 3.0 lost the head gasket [for real this time...]>I have a few questions as I'm not too sure about this dealership:>1) They said that the valves will not require readjusting after the head
 are removed. If i want them checked/shimmed, it will run me $120. Is this
 correct, and should I have it done?
>Jason Matthews>93 V6 X-cab>4' Pro-Comp [the shop loved that, took tires off to work on it :)]>33" Mud-Rovers>>>>>> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 15:09:05 EST
 From: "David Akers"  Subject: A couple of questions
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hey guys,
 I have a couple of questions for ya.  Well, the first one is
 not, it is something that I have for sale.  I have American Racing
 Wheels for sale and I think that they are type 8 but not sure.  They are
 15X10 and were used for about a year.  I paid a little over $600 for
 them and I am asking $300 or best offer.  I have a picture of them at
 this address:
 http://members.wbs.net/homepages/g/u/t/gutter227.html
 If the address doesn't work let me know but it should work.  The next
 question that I have is that I have been looking at suspension lifts for
 a while now trying to figure out which one to consider getting.  I have
 narrowed it down to two kits.  I have been looking at Superlift and
 Pro-Comp.  I had almost decided to get the superlift but noticed that a
 lot of you all have pro-comp.  I was wondering if some of yall could
 tell me the pros and cons between the two.
 The last question is about my truck.  With all of this talk about
 headgaskets it has gotten me thinking.  I own a 1988 4Runner SR5 V6 with
 142,000 miles on it.  I got it in 1993 and I haven't had any major
 problems with it except for the power steering pump.  I don't know
 wother the previous owner knew about it or even had it fixed about the
 headgasket.  The question is eventhough I am not the original owner and
 it being ten years old do you all know wother a dealer will fix it under
 warranty.  If someone could let me know I would appreciate it.
 Thanks,
 David
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 10:31:58 -0500
 From: ERiAN  Subject: Annoying Sounds and Brake Light
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 My '90 ToY 4Runner just recently started doing some weird things. First off
 the front left tire makes this really annoying sound when i'm driving slow,
 sounds like a grinding, but this isn't my main concern, my main concern is
 my dash Brake light, it keeps coming on and going off, and when it's on, my
 Cruise Control doesn't work. I've checked the brake fluid and it's all
 good, so what else could this be? a short in my system? Maybe this is
 related, and maybe not, but also when i have my headlights, heater, wipers
 and stereo on and if i press the power locks when the doors are already
 locked, my lights dim and my amp to my stereo shuts off, then turns back
 on, is my alternator bad, or what? Thanks.
 Erian McKinley
 =========================================================
 Erian McKinley			'90 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4
 erian@erian.com			31x10.50 BFG's
 Frederick, Maryland		K&N Air Filter
 =========================================================
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:31:28 -0600
 From: Steve Harron & Jennifer Lippold  Subject: Another tow strap Q
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 09:44:44 -0800> From: Chris Geiger > Subject: Another tow strap Q> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>> I carry about 8' of safety chain and a shackle that fits it. When I go> down to Los Angels I use the chain to lock the truck.
 Chris don't tell me this!  I'm moving to LA in a couple of months! :-)> ------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 12:44:41 -0800
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: Another tow strap Q
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Steve Harron & Jennifer Lippold wrote:> Chris don't tell me this!  I'm moving to LA in a couple of months! :-)>> ------------------------------
 Just don't leave valuables like your garden hose out at night!
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:58:21 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Automatics, for Yuppies? I think So!
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Not to get any conflicts going, but in more cases than not an> automatic pulls> through with more advantages.
 [-->>  ]  Sure Automatics have more advantages, but so do the
 manuals....-))> Automatic:> -more torque most of the time due to a torque converter able to be> turning the> trani at a speed other than that of the engine without burning up like> a> clutch. Allowing more power off the start
 [-->>  ]  This conflicts with my experience.  All autos I've driven are
 a pain to get going in hard condictions.  In soft stuff, you have to
 push, and push on the gas, and suddenly the tires start spinning, but to
 fast and you just dig down.  In very slippery condictions you are doomed
 to take of in 1-st gear, and the torque at each wheel is simply to much,
 and you just spin all tires (no mater how slowly and carfully you push
 the gas pedal).  With a manual, you can take off in any gear, and you
 can control the torque with the cluch.> -one less distraction while driving
 [-->>  ]  Absolutly.  But shifting gears becomes an unconsius act very
 soon.> -can spin the tires easy without having to dump a clutch and wear it> out.
 [-->>  ]  It is easier to spin tires with a manual.  Just rev the engine
 upp a bunch and let go....;-))  Sure you do wear the clutch out. It is
 one of those wearing up parts, just like your brakes.  Overheating
 Automactics is also possible..> -Automatically shifts at the best RPM for the given load, speed, and> accelerator position
 [-->>  ]  Automaticly always shifts at the wrong points. ..;-))   With a
 manual YOU deside when to shift....  I like that.
 [-->>  ]  Hey, you forgot the most important parts....  Automatics are
 better in deep water.  With a manual you are stuck in the gear you enter
 the water in.  Water has a habbit of getting into the cluch, and
 inbetween the disk (if you decluch) , making your cluch unenaged until
 it dries up again.
 When going step uphill the automatics can shift down to a lower gear,
 without ever loosing torque at the wheels.  Impossible with a manual (it
 takes to long to shift)
 [-->>  ]  Automatcis are easier to take off on a step inclines,  but
 hair raising when going down..>> Standard:> -better mileage (hardly enough to cry about)> -you can wind out the gears (good for the engine)  :)> -get the fun of replacing the clutch
 [-->>  ]  Better engine braking.  A VERY good feature in slippery
 condictions, and off-road.
 - - Constant look-up, in all gears,  no slipping in the converter.  It
 only starts slipping under very, very heavy load.
 - - Cheaper
 - - Its far easier to "rock" the truck for and aft.  Simply a MUST in deep
 snow, and many other cond.  Shifting between first and Reverse is faster
 than with auto.> In my opinion an automatic is better for torque and off-roading.> I have nothing against standards but I would not buy one when there is> a more> advanced way to off-road and have fun.> [-->>  ]  In my opinion a manual is better for torque and off-roading.
 I have nothing against automatics but I would not buy one when there is
 a more
 advanced way to off-road and have fun.
 [-->>  ]  Runar....;~)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 03:55:20 -0800 (PST)
 From: Michael Ken Chen  Subject: automatics-manuals
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 one thing i would like to say cuz someone was compairing these...
 is that... manuals for me by far are better when i am in the ice/snow.
 and that is cuz i have so much better control by down-shifting (breaking
 is a bad idea in ice/snow.) downshifting can control your speed better.
 yeah i know you can downshift on auto, but it is not the same cuz you
 don't have a clutch.  oh and yeah i got a toyo cuz i go into the mts a lot
 so a manual is by far better for me.  =)  however, i wish i had a
 tip-tronic like a porsche then i can eat when i want.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 10:04:35 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: automatics-manuals
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Michael Ken Chen wrote:> =)  however, i wish i had a> tip-tronic like a porsche then i can eat when i want.
 Amen Brother!  I hate spilling tacos/burgers/fries/etc in my lap just
 because it's time to shift again!  :-)
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 14:04:49 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: Dan Quezada
 To:  Sorry to post to the list, Dan could you resend me those Surprise Canyon
 pics?  I lost them.
 For everyone else, I have been making little changes to my page almost
 daily, check it out.
 http://gaia.ecs.csus.edu/~millerb/4x.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 22:51:54 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: Diesel pump leak
 To: klimakom@uni-x.se, mcarl@uni-x.se, Toy4x4@tlca.org> Diesel pump is leaking and I can not demount pump until i got> specifications in settings for pump.
 Before removing pump check the leak is not from the Banjo Type Fuel
 fittings. It is common for them to loosen. I think you want to know how
 to remove the pump not how to set the timing. Let a diesel mechanic do
 the timing you cant do it at home without a very good knowledge of how
 it works.
 Here's how to Remove the injection pump
 1. Remove Timing Belt Cover
 2. Remove Timing Belt
 3. Remove Air inlet Hose between air cleaner and Turbo or Manifold
 4. Disconnect Throttle Cable and remove throttle quadrant
 5. Disconnect injection pipes from injectors and Pump Remove retaining
 clamps and remove pipes from engine (Hold the injector with a spanner
 while loosing pipe or pipe/injector may be damaged)
 6. Remove the throttle linkage rod
 7. Disconnect fuel hoses and wireing from pump
 8. On Auto models remove the kickdown linkage to the transmission
 9. Remove the bolts retaining the bracket to the injection pump and the
 block then withdraw the bracket
 10. Remove the pump drive sprocket from the front of the pump DO NOT
 ROTATE THE SPROCKET or the timing will need to reset
 11. Check the timing marks on the pump body and the rear of the front
 engine housing are aligned. If they are not aligned make new marks so
 pump can be installed with correct timing
 12. Remove the nuts retaining the injection pump to the block
 Installation is the reverse procedure of above
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:39:04 -0600
 From: Jason King  Subject: Downey Lift
 To: toy 4x4 list  I am looking to lift my '95, and I was wondering if anyone had any
 suggestions/advice/expirence?  I was looking at the Downey mega travel
 "grand slam kit" (inculdes everything).   I live in Colorado, and I do
 alot of rock crawling, and I want to run 33s, and I am regearing w/
 airlockers.  Any help would be appreciated.  Please reply privately.
 ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
 Jason King
 e-mail  kingj@ucsu.colorado.edu
 95 Toy 4x4 PU extended cab 32x11.50 Dunlop Rover RVs
 American Racing Rims,Pioneer Premire CD player,
 MB Quart mids,Rockford Fosgate Amps,12 in Solo-Baric
 Raven camper shell,w/ 97 4-runner rack,CB, more to come...
 ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:51:43 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Downey Lift
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jason King wrote:>> I am looking to lift my '95, and I was wondering if anyone had any> suggestions/advice/expirence?  I was looking at the Downey mega travel> "grand slam kit" (inculdes everything).   I live in Colorado, and I do> alot of rock crawling, and I want to run 33s, and I am regearing w/> airlockers.  Any help would be appreciated.  Please reply privately.
 "Please reply privately"  ??   Why the hell are you on a mailing list
 then?  Isn't the point to SHARE info?
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 11:05:11 -0800 (PST)
 From: rick99@jps.net (Rick Murray)
 Subject: electric cooling fans
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I recently saw an ad in a 4x4 mag for an electric cooling fan.
 It seems to me that the stock fan, at highway speeds, adds quite
 a bit of drag to an already-over-taxed engine.  This may improve
 my highway performance, as well as making deep-water fording a
 little easier on the engine compartment (can turn it off temporarily).
 Anybody have any experience with these ?
 How does it tie into the existing wiring ?
 Do I have to get rid of the fan shroud ?
 How does it attach to the radiator ?
 A/C condenser get in the way ?
 TIA.
 ##################################################################
 Rick Murray                                22R motor ; 3-inch lift
 84 Toyota 4Runner SR5                    33" BFG M/Ts ; 4.88 gears
 Rancho Cordova, Ca.                   Rancho 9000's ; on-board air
 http://www.jps.net/rick99/             Marlin TCase #67 ; TRD LSD
 ##################################################################
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:50:06 -0600
 From: "J. MacDonald Russell, Jr."  Subject: Emissions Control System
 To:  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD379B.99584780
 Content-Type: text/plain;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 I have a 1981 Toyata SR5 Shortbed 4x4.  5 or  6 years ago, my brother =
 had to have a new engine.  The shop put in a 21RU that has been running =
 fine.  I believe it is parts interchangeable with the 22R, because I =
 have not had any problems with any parts from my local parts store.  =
 Anyway, I have a hole or crack or something in the pipes that bolt on =
 the rear of the exhaust manifold and wrap around the engine.  When =
 accelerating, this hole or crack makes a sound like the exaust manifold =
 is leaking.  I am looking for either an on-line document or a =
 publication that will show me how to remove or replace the pipe, and how =
 to either remove or tune up the emissions control system.  I hope that =
 this request is not illegal in any way.  Help!
 Thanks,
 Mack Russell
 - ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD379B.99584780
 Content-Type: text/html;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a 1981 Toyata SR5 Shortbed =
 4x4.  5=20
 or  6 years ago, my brother had to have a new engine.  The =
 shop put in=20
 a 21RU that has been running fine.  I believe it is parts =
 interchangeable=20
 with the 22R, because I have not had any problems with any parts from my =
 local=20
 parts store.  Anyway, I have a hole or crack or something in the =
 pipes that=20
 bolt on the rear of the exhaust manifold and wrap around the =
 engine.  When=20
 accelerating, this hole or crack makes a sound like the exaust manifold =
 is=20
 leaking.  I am looking for either an on-line document or a =
 publication that=20
 will show me how to remove or replace the pipe, and how to either remove =
 or tune=20
 up the emissions control system.  I hope that this request is not =
 illegal=20
 in any way.  Help!
 
Thanks,
 
Mack =
 Russell
 - ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BD379B.99584780--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 12:42:01 -0800
 From: "Vic & Lorelei"  Subject: Engine Swap
 To: "Toy4x4 List" >From: Hollister >Subject: Engine Swap>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>At 04:14 PM 2/11/98 -0800, you wrote:>>Having a 350 under the hood of a toy does not mean over>>heating problems.>I agree.  I have had no problems with overheating.  I have an>expensive>aluminum radiator, with a 17" fan with no fan clutch.  Works fine.>Scott
 As well I am running a 350. I used a 78' Camero 3 row rad and cut it down to
 21" I run an electric fan that doesn't come on in town at all. I ran without
 a fan for 6 months. As soon as I hit the trail it comes on but till then I
 dont need it.
 When approaching a four-way stop,
 the vehicle with the largest
 tires always has the right of way.
 http://www.cnx.net/~vsery/
 vsery@cnx.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 98 10:52:51 PST
 From: "MICHEL PRINCE"  Subject: Fw: Engine Swap
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 - ----------> Date: Wednesday, February 11, 1998 07:24:53> From: HammerHead1> To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: Fw: Engine Swap>>>> ---------->> Date: Tuesday, February 10, 1998 22:28:34>> To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org>>>>>> 	I'm very interested in an engine swap. I've chickened out on the swap =>> twice in the past fourr years.>> I built the nuts out of a four cylinder and had great results. I put over=>>  sized valves in a 20R head and shaved>>  the head .060. I used a Crane cam, I ported and polished the 20R intake =>> (had to do two, I ground through a>> water jacket-ha ha) , and  used a 38 DGS Weber carb. I put the head on =>> a .030 over-bored 22R block. I had>> to run high octane gas but it ran like a raped ape. This was a costly eng=>> ine build and I don't want to do it>>  again. I've since bought another 4SKINRUNNER with a stock motor.>> 	I don't want to deal with the over heating of the V8, my truck sits>> idli=>> ng at boat ramps alot. This>> leads me to the V6 swap. I have a great donor motor ( Chevy 229) with a =>> TH 250 trans. I don't know any>> information on this motor. I've heard it is the same (physical size) as =>> a 4.3. It is the same as a 262. Is a 262>> a 4.3? I'd also like to cut the cost of the transfer case adapter and fin=>> d a TH 350 already mated to a NP 205,>>  NP 208 , or some other usable case. If I may have to get drive shaft wor=>> k done anyway there would be no>>  difference in adding GM yokes on each end. I also want to keep my Toy =>> AC. I feel confident that I can fab a>>  bracket for it but feel even more confident on the swap if I can also =>> purchase one( it doesn't exist) I want>> bolt in motor mounts in case I ever have to go back to the Toy 4. Will =>> a TH 350 even bolt up to a 229?>> I need any and all information on this 229 motor. Please help, this is =>> keeping me awake at night.>>>> HammerHead1@worldnet.att.net> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 10:46:00 PST
 From: "Andrew Pachon"  Subject: GEARING SWAP Question
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Is there anyone in here running 35's?  If so what gears are they running
 and how do you like them?  Did you install them yourself?  If so was it
 a seriously difficult task?  I have access to a serious work shop with
 just about everything I could ask for and I was contemplating this task
 for the upcoming summer ( A fool and his money soon part)  Please
 respond to this post if you have 35's or if you have done a GEAR SWAP.
 Thank you for your time...
 Andy
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:58:37 -0500
 From: "NUNES, ROB"  Subject: GEARING SWAP Question
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  A. I run 5:29 with 35" BFG-MT W/ Alcoa's. They are a perfect match for a
 1986 22RE. It has a Downey clutch and their Heavy flywheel.
 B. I bought the 3-rd member already set-up with the 5:29 gears and a
 Detroit Locker in the rear. Swapped in the 3-rd member by my self, very
 easy job.> ----------> From: 	Andrew Pachon[SMTP:wetwork999@hotmail.com]> Reply To: 	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Sent: 	Thursday, February 12, 1998 1:46 PM> To: 	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject: 	GEARING SWAP Question>> Is there anyone in here running 35's?  If so what gears are they> running> and how do you like them?  Did you install them yourself?  If so was> it> a seriously difficult task?  I have access to a serious work shop with>> just about everything I could ask for and I was contemplating this> task> for the upcoming summer ( A fool and his money soon part)  Please> respond to this post if you have 35's or if you have done a GEAR SWAP.>> Thank you for your time...>> Andy>> ______________________________________________________> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com> ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 12:27:29 -0800
 From: "Brandon Miller"  Subject: GEARING SWAP Question
 To:  I am running 35's with BFG's too, with 5.29's.  I installed the lock rights
 but paid $50 for each end for a shop to set up the gears.
 There is a lot of mods involved with 35's but well worth it.  I have a 2"
 body lift, Con-fer shacklles and a 4" suspension lift.  I also have some
 custom fender modifications for clearance.  By the way they still rub...
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: Andrew Pachon  To: Toy4x4@tlca.org  Date: Thursday, February 12, 1998 10:48 AM
 Subject: GEARING SWAP Question>Is there anyone in here running 35's?  If so what gears are they running>and how do you like them?  Did you install them yourself?  If so was it>a seriously difficult task?  I have access to a serious work shop with>just about everything I could ask for and I was contemplating this task>for the upcoming summer ( A fool and his money soon part)  Please>respond to this post if you have 35's or if you have done a GEAR SWAP.>Thank you for your time...>>Andy>>______________________________________________________>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:29:15 -0800
 From: "Roger Brown P.E."  Subject: Hawse fairlead for Warn winch
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Tony wrote:>> Roger, I highly recommend not installing a hawse fairlead even for minor
 winching.
 First you will not ever know when you might be doing a hard pull.  If
 you do that hard pull at an angle you will curl your cable.  I think it
 was my first time using my winch I was high centered on both axles and
 had to pull at an angle and curled the cable pretty good.
< Subject: Help
 To:  Darren wrote:
 I did the same on my 85 Toy 22re,and i picked up a few MPG.I'd look for
 something else.What size pipe did you use?I used 2 1/4" to the muffler,a
 dynomax,with the stock 2" tailpipe.Check your fault codes.Or ask Jim
 Brink,he knows just about everything. ;-)
 Jim,
 If you really know just about everything; ( I am assuming you do!); could
 you please tell me the winning numbers for this weeks Washington State
 lottery so I can buy another Toyota 4-wheel drive to add to my collection. I
 will also buy you one too. I have promised lockers to the guys that I wheel
 with so I am sure they would appreciate it also! Please e-mail me direct
 with the numbers if you wouldn't mind. I should also have enough left over
 to buy Dave Schoenberg some liquid nails & a couple turdmostats so he won't
 feel left out.
 Thanks,
 Dan Smith
 prism@premier1.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:37:19 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Inboard shocks?
 To: j_s_stevenson@hotmail.com
 Hmm - I dunno know if its relevent to this list - but
 discusisng an inboard shock arrangement would be cool.
 A few years back there was an advertiser in Off-Road
 that sold a bolt in setup for a psuedu inboard shock
 setup ment to be used with a solid axle.
 The shocks were palced in a horizontal position, in
 a vertical row, parallel to the axle and under the bed.
 The three bilstiens per side were actuated by an L shaped
 bar that was attached to to the stock lower shock points
 via a link bar.
 The idea was to get pre-runner travel w/o cutting holes
 in the bed (it was a chase truck so they needed the space.
 They used "off the shelf" bilsteins insted of fancy
 super duper coil overs - hence they needed 3 per side
 because of the leverage factor of the arms.
 As much as an A Arm setup is kinda neat - there is
 still the inherent "lift" aspect for rock crawlin
 where a solid axle excells.
 I was actually leaning towards a DeDion type rear
 setup for my "fantasy" rear suspension.
 And while we are on the fantasy stage - use Hewland
 "quick change" diffs - you can change gear ratios
 in seconds with one of those - w/o draining the oil!
 (well - if you use one of the fancy pump cooled ones)
 Torsen type diffs are now avail for the Richmond
 version of the quick change case.
 One *major* advante of the inboard setup -
 esp if you located both SPRINGS and SHOCKS
 in the inboard rocker - is that one can then
 utilize the "third" spring concept to control
 roll seperate from compression.
 Then one can make the truck "roll" stiff (aka
 wont lean in corners) but compression
 soft (can do jumps and have mondo travel)
 For roc cralwing - stiffen the compression
 and soften the roll (allows axle twist
 and keeps the body out of the weeds).
 Hmm - using air bags or hydrulic pressure
 valves (via moog swithces) - active suspension?
 Now *that* would be a major advantage - a
 button marked PreRun/RokCrawl!
 Also - take a *close* look at Sonni Heiddiger's (sp)
 rocktoy that was feature in FourWheeler a while back.
 There a solid axle suspension taken to some
 interesting territory.
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 11:23:07 -0800
 From: Scott Muir  Subject: Intake manifold splooge 22R-E
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"  Jerald Josephs wrote:> I agree with Scott Muir that it might be the EGR system or at least one part
 of> it.
 8)
 James Brink:>Yes, to some extent. There is no oil residue in the EGR system.
 8(
 When I was in here, I had to clean up the EGR tube. It had a LOT of carbon in
 it,
 (like it had reduced the inner diameter of the pipe to a 1/2).  It was however,
 drier
 than the 'splooge' in the plenum etc.  I also know that I was having some
 blow-by
 on #3 and #4 rings and the 22RE had a slight oil drinking problem.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 22:54:45 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: Leaking axle
 To: aph120@psu.edu, Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The "valve thingy" is called a breather. As the diff heats up pressure
 in the diff releases. Under the cap is a ball bearing or bit of rubber
 and a spring. This is ment to stop water getting in. But if you go near
 water relocate the breather up above the water to be sure. For oil to be
 thrown out you world need a lot of pressure or have overfilled the diff.
 Did you fill the diff on a flat lever surface?. Normally the diff leaks
 from the hub seals when the breather becomes blocked that's common.
 However some oil is always leaking through the breather but it should
 never be enough to run down the diff if it is get it checked.To be sure
 go see a diff specialist and get it checked.
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 11:55:54 -0600
 From: alford-jw  Subject: looking for photos
 To: Toy4x4  Can anyone point me to some photos of a coil-sprung 4Runner rear
 axle that shows the rear axle well ? I'm specifically looking for
 pics of how the panhard rod mounts to the frame and to the
 axle housing ... If you know of any just email them directly to
 me please. Thanks.
 - jack
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:07:20 EST
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: looking for photos
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-02-12 13:03:57 EST, you write:> Can anyone point me to some photos of a coil-sprung 4Runner rear>  axle that shows the rear axle well ? I'm specifically looking for>  pics of how the panhard rod mounts to the frame and to the>  axle housing ... If you know of any just email them directly to>  me please. Thanks.>>   - jack
 What, you been thinkin' of swapping one into a truck too?
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 18:25:50 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: looking for photos
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Swapping in rear coils/airbags is very common up here.  Its the only way
 to get a decent suspension.
 There are two ways to mount the panhard rod, the right way and the wrong
 way.  The wrong way is easier however.
 The Wrong way.  Built a tower up from the axle. Mount one end of phanard
 rod to the top of the tower and the ofher just below the frame member on
 the other side.
 The Right way, is to built a tower down from the frame. Mount one end of
 phanard rod to bottom of tower, and the other about 2"-4" above
 centerline of axle.  A proper built tower needs two new frame
 crossmembers.  One that goes straight between the framerails, like all
 crossmembers do.  Then another that goes from close to bottom of tower,
 and up to the opposide frame member.  Those xtra cross-members are to
 distribute the forces from the phanard rod between the frame rails.
 Tower and crossmebers form a triangle, wich corners are the
 frame-members, and the lower tower end.
 Good luck
 Runar.
 P.S. the pahnard rod should be close to laterial.> -----Original Message-----> From:	alford-jw [SMTP:alford-jw@exchange1.redstone.army.mil]> Sent:	Thursday, February 12, 1998 5:56 PM> To:	Toy4x4@tlca.org> Subject:	looking for photos>> Can anyone point me to some photos of a coil-sprung 4Runner rear> axle that shows the rear axle well ? I'm specifically looking for> pics of how the panhard rod mounts to the frame and to the> axle housing ... If you know of any just email them directly to> me please. Thanks.>>  - jack
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 11:48:45 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: looking for photos
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have a digital camera and can snap a few shots after work today and
 send them to you tomorrow
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 alford-jw wrote:> Can anyone point me to some photos of a coil-sprung 4Runner rear> axle that shows the rear axle well ? I'm specifically looking for> pics of how the panhard rod mounts to the frame and to the> axle housing ... If you know of any just email them directly to> me please. Thanks.>>  - jack
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 16:40:51 EST
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: looking for photos
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 98-02-12 13:28:45 EST, you write:> Swapping in rear coils/airbags is very common up here.  Its the only way>  to get a decent suspension.
 BIG SNIP>  Good luck>>  Runar.
 Thanks for the information.  I was looking to just find me a 4Runner axle and
 steal the parts I can use from there, making the rest.
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 David Moore                       DRM033@aol.com
 90 Toyota Truck - 4" ProComp, 33" Swampers,
 4.88's, rear ARB, TJM bumper & Ramsey #8000
 TLCA #5662
 Traxx In Motion 4 Wheel Drive Club
 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:06:05 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: Manual Hubs
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Paul Tom wrote-
 *************************
 My question is if/can I leave the manual hubs locked in 2wd and
 drive around safely?  Then when I knew I wouldn't be needing 4WD (summer)
 I'd just leave it unlocked, but then when I know I might need 4WD
 (winter) I'll lock the hubs before I get into mud/dirt/snow/rain.
 *******************************
 I do it all the time! It's perfectly fine. Just remember that with the hubs locked in you will be
 spinning the axles, diff, and driveshaft, as well as part of the transfer. The manual for my
 truck even recommends that you do this every now and then (well, they give a more
 exact figure) to lube things up.
 It all basically comes down to longevity versus laziness. Longevity shouldn't be affected
 too bad, so I'm usually lazy! If I think I'm gonna need 4WD I just leave the hubs locked in.
 Snowy days, looking for trails, etc etc.
 I also have driven with the hubs unlocked and the transfer in 4-lo. As long as you don't
 gas it too hard it should be fine. It's nice if you just need to crawl along but don't want to
 get out and lock the hubs. (Laziness again) I did this last summer when I was driving
 through crowds of people at the Bread and Puppet Festival in Glover, Vermont looking for
 a campsite.
 Ok, quick story here. When I was waiting to get in to the festival I pulled up to give the
 ticket lady my money. It was on a slight-up slope. My truck was PACKED full of stuff and I was still in 2-HI. Anyways, I hand my lady the money and she thanks me and then yells
 back to warn the car behind me that they were too close and I might roll back. I just
 smiled and pulled out, zero roll, zero wheelspin. I mean, come on, if you can do hill starts
 on a 45 degree angle.....and this was before I knew about key starts!
 Eli Madden
 Williston, Vermont
 emadden@inacom-vt.com
 '83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4 w/31s
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:49:01 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: manual hubs with ADD?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Yes you can. A locked warn hub is the same as the live add hub. The add
 hub is just a bolt on flange.
 Driving around with the warn hubs locked will be same as driving around
 with add hubs.
 Chris Gegier 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 Paul Tom wrote:>         I am thinking of converting my ADD front end to Warn premium> hubs.  My question is if/can I leave the manual hubs locked in 2wd and>> drive around safely?  Then when I knew I wouldn't be needing 4WD> (summer)> I'd just leave it unlocked, but then when I know I might need 4WD> (winter) I'll lock the hubs before I get into mud/dirt/snow/rain.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 10:58:38 -0800
 From: Scott Muir  Subject: Not the Pulley bearing
 To: "Toy4x4@tlca.org"  DAVE SCHOENBERG wrote:>No, No, No,  neither engine bearings or oil pump will squeal- they'l>knock like crazy but that's it.  I think the timing chain would only>knock, too.    I've replaced many timing>chains over the years and never heard one squeal.
 I'm just catching the tail end of this one, but HM2C, (here's my 2 cents)
 Last year this time, my engine was squeeling.  (refer to "stuck pig" in the
 digest search engine).  Again, I can't say absolutely it was the timing chain,
 but
 when I got it open, one of the guides had snapped at the bolt eye and was
 free to move around.  It's an 85 22re with about 270K Km's on it.
 I can't really remember how bad the sound was, but it made people look
 at stop lights.  I seem to remember it was a little intermittent and was
 loudest when the engine was first started on cold mornings. (frosty am's
 for instance)  If you do end up doing the chain, I recommend getting the
 OEM chain and parts.  I have a couple of friends who didn't and ended
 up changing to OEM shortly thereafter.
 Scott.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 06:55:04 -0800
 From: "Don M. West"  Subject: On the tow strap thread
 To: Toyota 4x4 mailing list  Chris said:>> I couldn't help the poor guy because I couldn't attach my "closed">> loop strap to his "closed" loop attachment on his frame.>>I carry about 8' of safety chain and a shackle that fits it.
 I can vouch for Chris' chain as that's what we used to get me out of a mud
 bog at Hollister. That's when I decided to change out my bumper to a tube
 type with a nice Warn tow shackle.
 I've also purchased a good tow strap, with closed loops. I've seen chains
 at hardware stores. OSH has stuff supposedly CHP approved...this may be
 what Chris is referring to? As this stuff says it's rated for towing. What
 I've wanted to do is get some and some hooks with shackle/cotter type ends
 so I can attach the chain there, then hook the chain onto itself after
 passing through the loop. The hardware store's just been out of the hooks
 I'd need...I ought to get it before I NEED it *:) BTW...Chris, what length
 of chain do you receommend? I don't need to carry more than I need.
 Hey, speaking of chains, any of you Calif folk get checked for snow chains
 when going to the Sierra? I don't have chains for my 31" and I hope to get
 up to the snow before Spring.....more stuff I guess I need to buy, eh?
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:59:27 -0800
 From: Chris Geiger  Subject: On the tow strap thread
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Don M. West wrote:>  That's when I decided to change out my bumper to a tube> type with a nice Warn tow shackle.
 So when do I get to test the new pull hook?> OSH has stuff supposedly CHP approved...this may be what Chris is> referring to?
 Yep that's the cain I purchased, it has the highest working load of all
 the chain the OSH stocks.> Chris, what length of chain do you receommend? I don't need to carry> more than I need.
 I think 6' is about all you need. I have never needed more.> Hey, speaking of chains, any of you Calif folk get checked for snow> chains> when going to the Sierra? I don't have chains for my 31" and I hope to> get> up to the snow before Spring.....more stuff I guess I need to buy, eh?
 Don don't do it! I won't be there to pull you out when you get stuck.
 4WPW has chains for about $50From what I have seen they only give you a
 ticket if you get stuck.
 Get stuck and they ask to see your chains, if don't have them you get
 $100 ticket.
 Chris Geiger 93 4Runner http://geiger.mcl.ucsb.edu/offroad.html
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 10:26:52 -0500 (EST)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: Performance Products
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I decided to buy new Bilsteins for my 4Runner. I ordered them from
 Performance Products on monday as well as some sway bar urethane bushings.
 Yesterday, I got a new catalog from them with a 15% off on orders over
 $100. I immediately called them and they credited my account. So, If you
 are about to order from Performance Products, wait for your new catalog so
 you can get that 15% off. Thanks to Performance Products for being nice.
 15% off is sure making those TJM bumpers real attractive....
 Cheers,
 Karl Bellve, Ph.D.
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 Phone: (508) 856-3785
 Fax  : (508) 856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:44:49 -0600 (CST)
 From: "Bruce Burden"  Subject: Posi
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>> I want to buy posi for my truck...........> Well, just to be technical, a "posi" isn't a locker. A
 posi is some type of limited slip differential, depending on
 which manufacturer offered it.
 Lock-Rights and such are automatic positive locking
 differentials.
 Both have their plusses and minusses.>> My friend has a Loc-Rite and he says it makes strange noises and clunks> on corners and stuff...> "Strange"? Well, I guess that is in the ear of the
 listener :-) I would be very worried if my Lock Rights were
 totally silent on turns.
 With an automatic locker (Detroit Locker, EZ Locker,
 Lock Right) you will get clunks, clicks and chirps. It is
 the nature of the beast. This is simply the dog clutches
 ("clutch" is sort of misnomer. It is simply ramped steel
 teeth that (dis)engage with each other) working. The
 advantage of a this type unit is, under acceleration, no
 axle will be allowed to turn slower than the ring gear.
 This means no more one wheel spinning wildly, one tire
 stopped.
 With a limited slip differential (older GM "posi"
 units, Ford, Dodge(?), Auburn), you have clutch packs
 that bias the torque on the axles. However, x% of 0 is
 still 0, so if one wheel is in the air, it is the one
 that will turn, NOT the wheel on the ground. Now, there
 are also geared limited slip differentials that apparently
 will achieve full lock on the two axles. The GM "guv-
 lock" by Eaton(?) is one such unit. Limited slip diffs
 have the advantage that they are true differentials,
 as opposed to lockers, which lose the differential ability.
 You also have manual lockers. These units can be
 cable (Toyota), electricly (Toyota, Power Trax) or
 air (ARB) activated. These units are true differntials
 until activated, when they become lockers (when NO
 difference in RPM between the axles is permitted).
 Their disadvantage is cost (ARB) and the manual operation
 (it is difficult to turn a totally locked vehicle). On
 the positive side, however, they operate as true, open,
 diffs on the street.
 Now, my Xcab Tacoma has Lock Rights, and it will
 chirp the tires in a turn, it clicks pulling into parking
 spaces, the rear end wiggles with gear shifts (5 speed)
 in turns or suddenly lifting off of the gas in a turn.
 However, it also means all 4 tires have to spin before
 I am stuck. I can live with that :-)
 Bruce
 - --
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bruce Burden            bruceb@isd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
 512-432-8944            Network Verification          14231 Tandem Blvd.
 Auto answer(4 rings)                                  Austin, TX 78726
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 10:28:00 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Problems w/shims
 To: jvargus@austin.ibm.com, Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Anybody have problems with the front side shims on a ifs diff?
 A trutrac with new bearings was installed and we've ordered all the toyota
 shims and yet they are still to thick. I've heard off having the original
 shims milled a couple of thousands of an inch, any other suggestions. Or any other aftermarket shim kits available?
 I am not referring to the pinion shims.
<< Subject: Problems w/shims
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>>>> Anybody have problems with the front side shims on a ifs diff?> A trutrac with new bearings was installed and we've ordered all the toyota> shims and yet they are still to thick. I've heard off having the original> shims milled a couple of thousands of an inch, any other suggestions. Or any other aftermarket shim kits available?> I am not referring to the pinion shims.> <<<>> There was a post on this - sometime in the last month or two.> If you install a tru-trac in the IFS front - the OEM IFS front shims dont work and you need> to get a different shim - also OEM. Call the Dyneer/TruTrac people - they should be> able to help. My installer found this out also - as the shims that came with the> bearing kit didnt work either.
 I didn't have any trouble with the shims, but the stock bearing doesn't
 work - there's a special part number you need for the bearings. Maybe that
 s the problem?
 4WPW gave me the part number, and it worked well. I can look it up when i
 get home if anyone needs it.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 13:10:23 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: Sagging Rear (not a 4Runner!)
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Mike wrote-
 ************************
 My problem is that there is an asthetically
 unpleasing sag in the rear end that i'm planning
 on curing with a 2' or 3' body lift on the back.
 Are there any other things that I could do other
 than this? What are my options?
 *************************
 A body lift won't cure this. Sounds like your rear springs are shot if it does this with no
 load. A body lift in the rear would raise the bed, but not change the angle. Maybe a body
 lift on the rear part of the bed would change the angle of the bed, but the cab would still
 be at a funny angle, and a different one than the bed. Check the springs.
 Eli Madden
 Williston, Vermont
 emadden@inacom-vt.com
 '83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 18:29:13 -0000
 From: runars@isbank.is
 Subject: Sagging Rear (not a 4Runner!)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Go to a wreckyard, find low ratio coils and squize them between the
 frame and the U bolts.
 This is the result
 Runar.> -----Original Message-----> From:	Juha Sarimaa [SMTP:JUHA.SARIMAA@health.gov.au]> Sent:	Monday, February 02, 1998 9:55 PM> To:	runars> Subject:	Re: Coil springs> Sensitivity:	Confidential>> Runar,>> You've done it?>> Yes, on the weekend.  Took some measurements and then went to a> wrecker and> found two pairs of likely springs.  Ended up fitting the set from the> Datsun.>> You like it?>> I did this for a friend and he definitely likes it.  For $30 he got 2"> of> lift and the ride is better now if anything.  For a better ride I> would> probably pull one leaf or so out but my friend is happy with it the> way it> is.>> Seeya.> Juha.> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 10:24:05 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Sagging Rear (not a 4Runner!)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Mike wrote-> ************************>  My problem is that there is an asthetically> unpleasing sag in the rear end that i'm planning> on curing with a 2' or 3' body lift on the back.> Are there any other things that I could do other> than this? What are my options?> *************************
 Eli, was correct...a body lift won't help you.  A body lift lifts the
 entire truck, so it'd still be saggin' in the back.
 The easiest (and in my opinion, the best) thing you could do is a
 shackle lift.  I'm WAY too lazy to write the whole speil again...so
 check I wrote it up on my web page...the shacke lift page is at
 http://www.off-road.com/~swilson/shackle
 Other options would be to get some lift springs ($), or blocks (yuck).
 No matter which lift you do you need to remember to do two things
 afterward....(1) get longer shocks for the rear, and  (2) raise the arm
 on your brake proportioning valve.  I talk about both of these on that
 web page.
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.off-road.com/~swilson
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 18:04:09 -0500
 From: redline1@juno.com (Kurt m Steiger)
 Subject: Scott: available 80's yoyos
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Not sure where u live, but when i lived in Chicago there were no vintage
 yoyos anywhere.  Now i live in Atlanta and see several 4-sale every
 month.  i would be more than happy to keep an eye open 4 u.  Also a good
 source the local library, most of the larger library get out of town
 papers.  Just wait 4 the sunday paper and go wild.
 Hope i helped, & let me know if u want me to skim the papers 4 u.
 _____________________________________________________________________
 You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
 Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
 Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 08:26:43 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: Snatch Strap Safety
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Brian Rau wrote-
 *****************************
 but his car only had the "closed" type frame
 tie-down points on it, no "open" tow hooks like your typical 4x4 would
 have.  I couldn't help the poor guy because I couldn't attach my "closed"
 loop strap to his "closed" loop attachment on his frame.  In such a
 situation, what does one do?  Is there anything like a mondo heavy-duty
 carabiner that can be used for this?  Or do I need to buy a new tow strap
 with an open metal hook?
 ************************************
 I have a rear tube bumper with no hooks and I just loop the strap back through itself. This still requires a hook on the other vehicle. However, those tie down points have kinda rough edges which wouldn't be too good for your strap, so check em out real close before you loop around them. A slight tear will greatly reduce the strength of the strap.  A way to get around that is to get a short section of chain and use it to connect to the rough/enclosed tie down point and then attach the strap to the chain.
 Make sure the chain is rated REALLY high. Snatch straps can generate a LOT of force.
 You shouldn't buy straps with hooks, cuz that hook will become a cannonball if something breaks. Remember, snatch straps generate a HUGE amount of force.
 I've heard stories of trucks actually coming off the ground when they get yanked by someone with enough speed with a snatch strap. That gives an idea of how much force we're talking about.
 Vehicle recovery can be one of the most dangerous parts of the sport. Be careful. Think first. Remember, you're not really stuck as long as the vehicle runs and you aren't hurt. It's hard to walk-out when you're unconcious. And emergency helicopters sure are expensive! Ambulances don't do very well on trails.......
 Eli Madden
 Williston, Vermont
 emadden@inacom-vt.com
 '83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4 w/ 31s
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 12:31:30 -0800
 From: Ken Emanuel  Subject: Snow ratings
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Don M. West wrote:> Hey, speaking of chains, any of you Calif folk get checked for snow chains> when going to the Sierra? I don't have chains for my 31" and I hope to get> up to the snow before Spring.....more stuff I guess I need to buy, eh?
 My co-workers hassle me about driving around a 4WD here in the city of
 Sacramento.  However due to their lack of 4WD, our ski trip for today
 got cancelled.  I had to go to class instead, what a let down!!
 Anyways, as I understand it, an "R1" refers to snow tires,
 "R2" is snow tires with chains or 4WD, and "R3"---does this mean 4WD
 with snow chains on ALL tires, or just two?  I imagine that buying four
 chains for a 31" can be expensive.
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 Ken Emanuel                     Emanuel@csus.edu
 '87 Xtra Cab SR5    (22R-E)
 http://webpages.csus.edu/~sac75830/toystuff.htm
 *-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 21:51:52 EST
 From: "james stevenson"  Subject: Stock Gearing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In Australia we get
 4.11 in the V6
 4.30 in the Diesel
 4.88 in the 4cil Petrol
 Tyres on all models vary from
 29 in (6 or 7 inch wide on 16 spilt rim)
 30 in  SR5 alloy rims
 31 LTD Edition Models (probably Australia Only on these)
 A diesel with 33's BFG rubber is spot on 4.88 remember when you
 calculate gears to actually measure the tyres as very few tyres actually
 measure the same as they say.
 ______________________________________________________
 Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 11 Feb 1998 18:18:15 -0500
 From: redline1@juno.com (Kurt m Steiger)
 Subject: Stock gearing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 YES.....
 My 87long bed has auto,31's, and pulls just below 3000rpm's on the
 digital tach @ 65mph.  I think all auto's come w/ the 4:10 not an option.
 could be wrong(HAVE BEEN BEFORE.)
 kurt
 _____________________________________________________________________
 You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
 Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
 Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 08:24:14 -0500
 From: Dan Newby  Subject: stock gearing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 When the original poster said VIN thats what I said aslo. I remembered that
 you were supposed to check the first few digits of the VIN to see if it was
 made here in the US or Japan. Yes, you need to check the axle code on your
 sticker, but that is still what this dealer was talking about. It doesn't
 tell you what ratio the axle is, just what axle type you have.  Thats what
 they told me anyway.
 Dan Newby
 newbyd@ipix.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 04:38:19 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: Stock gearing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Check your axle code to know for sure. My '87 auto came with 4.30s.
 ej@off-road.com   http://www.off-road.com/~ej
 On Wed, 11 Feb 1998, Kurt m Steiger wrote:> YES.....> My 87long bed has auto,31's, and pulls just below 3000rpm's on the> digital tach @ 65mph.  I think all auto's come w/ the 4:10 not an option.> could be wrong(HAVE BEEN BEFORE.)> 					kurt>> _____________________________________________________________________> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 04:39:40 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: stock gearing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 No, the axle code DOES tell you the ratio. Your dealer doesn't have the
 information we do. seriously.
 ej@off-road.com   http://www.off-road.com/~ej
 On Thu, 12 Feb 1998, Dan Newby wrote:>> When the original poster said VIN thats what I said aslo. I remembered that> you were supposed to check the first few digits of the VIN to see if it was> made here in the US or Japan. Yes, you need to check the axle code on your> sticker, but that is still what this dealer was talking about. It doesn't> tell you what ratio the axle is, just what axle type you have.  Thats what> they told me anyway.>> Dan Newby> newbyd@ipix.com> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:26:12 -0500
 From: Ken Kyle  Subject: subscribe from mailing list
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Hello :
 Please remove the following:
 kkyle@oxhp.com
 Thank you
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 08:51:32 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: The great auto vs. standard debate
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 DGRM125 wrote-
 ***************************
 Not to get any conflicts going, but in more cases than not an automatic pulls
 through with more advantages.
 Automatic:
 - - -more torque most of the time due to a torque converter able to be turning the
 trani at a speed other than that of the engine without burning up like a
 clutch. Allowing more power off the start
 - - -one less distraction while driving
 - - -can spin the tires easy without having to dump a clutch and wear it out.
 - - -Automatically shifts at the best RPM for the given load, speed, and
 accelerator position
 Standard:
 - - -better mileage (hardly enough to cry about)
 - - -you can wind out the gears (good for the engine)  :)
 - - -get the fun of replacing the clutch
 In my opinion an automatic is better for torque and off-roading.
 I have nothing against standards but I would not buy one when there is a more
 advanced way to off-road and have fun.
 *****************************
 Automatics have disadvantages that you didn't mention.
 - -Can't roll start the vehicle
 - -Less Compression braking
 - -Seals can fail and leave you stranded
 And standards have benefits you didn't mention.
 - -Excellent compression braking
 - -More reliable
 - -Better acceleration if you know how to use it
 - -More responsive if you know how to use it
 As far as replacing clutches, well, yeah you do have to, but they usually let you know they are going long before they fail and strand you.
 I was out wheelin with a Ch**y inside a Landcruiser frame and body (it was ALL Ch**y, so
 it dosn't even deserve being called a Chevota) and he almost got stranded because the
 auto blew a seal and dumped it's fluid, stopping all movement. Luckily, he was able to
 push the seal back into place and he had some tranny fluid in his boonie box. He still
 wouldn't give me a tug out of the hole I was in and left, saying he didn't trust the seal. I
 LOVE MY HI-LIFT. It took a few hours, but I made it through the trail.
 I might go with an auto on a mud truck, but for trails and street I'll take a standard. In the middle of nowhere I wouldn't trust an auto.
 Eli Madden
 Williston, Vermont
 emadden@inacom-vt.com
 '83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4 (with a 5 speed)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 04:42:49 -1000 (HST)
 From: Eric Johnson  Subject: The great auto vs. standard debate
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I was out wheelin with a Ch**y inside a Landcruiser frame and body (it was ALL Ch**y, so> it dosn't even deserve being called a Chevota) and he almost got stranded because the> auto blew a seal and dumped it's fluid, stopping all movement. Luckily, he was able to> push the seal back into place and he had some tranny fluid in his boonie box. He still> wouldn't give me a tug out of the hole I was in and left, saying he didn't trust the seal. I> LOVE MY HI-LIFT. It took a few hours, but I made it through the trail.
 Lets campare apples to apples - comparing a toyota manual to a chevy auto
 is kinda unfair to autos... :)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 21:54:38 +0100
 From: "Hanko"  Subject: towing
 To:  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BD3800.EC984700
 Content-Type: text/plain;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 Those things that are shaped like a horseshoe and have a threaded =
 pin (metal) are called a clevis.  These are very handy, and with chain =
 and tow strap, can be used in most situations.  I find two straps and =
 clevis to be better in most situations for pulling out cars because =
 strap doesn't tend to damage bumper or body like chain sometime does.  =20
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BD3800.EC984700
 Content-Type: text/html;
 charset="iso-8859-1"
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    Those=20
 things that are shaped like a horseshoe and have a threaded pin (metal) =
 are=20
 called a clevis.  These are very handy, and with chain and tow =
 strap, can=20
 be used in most situations.  I find two straps and clevis to be =
 better in=20
 most situations for pulling out cars because strap doesn't tend to =
 damage bumper=20
 or body like chain sometime=20
 does.   
 - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BD3800.EC984700--
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 07:57:52 -0800
 From: deasterly@trinitytech.com (Doug Easterly)
 Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #708
 To:  please take me off your list thanks
 doug...
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 08:56:17 -0500
 From: "Eli Madden"  Subject: Tranny lever hitting Transfer lever
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Barney McNamara wrote-
 ************************
 I also had a problem
 with my tranny lever knocking the xfer case out of 4-low, but that
 may have been due to worn out shift lever bushings. I bent the xfer
 lever with a torch,
 **************************
 AH! So that's how you bend it! Mine does the same thing and I hadn't figurerd out how to bend the darn thing without breaking it. Cool. You learn something new on this list every day!
 Eli Madden
 Williston, Vermont
 emadden@inacom-vt.com
 '83 SR5 Shortbed 4x4
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 09:19:37 -0800
 From: "Roger Brown P.E."  Subject: Using IFS lift parts in combination
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Darren wrote:>> It doesn't even look like the truck in this pic is at max droop.What
 does the front end geometry look like at rest?Scary.> Picture of the radical toe-in is at:>> http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/4x4/FrankRaines/Images/Jan31/fr_013198-02.jpg
< Subject: Using IFS lift parts in combination
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Darren wrote:>It doesn't even look like the truck in this pic is at max droop.What>does the front end geometry look like at rest?Scary.
>> Picture of the radical toe-in is at:>>>> http://reality.sgi.com/rogerb/4x4/FrankRaines/Images/Jan31/fr_013198-02.
 jpg
 This is what happens during heavy throttle and decent traction to an IFS
 truck. Look at the opening shots of a couple of Rick Russell video's and
 you'll
 see a Pathfinder snap something under a similar condition. Not pretty by
 any means...
 - jack
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 11:01:38 -0500
 From: "penny"  Subject: which gasket?
 To:  I am taking the head off a 20r motor to put on my 22r, and putting a spare
 22r head back on the 20r. which headgaskets should i use for this ? will
 the 20r be a "double dog" with the 22r head on it?
 and aproximately how much h.p. will the 22r get from this swap
 w/header/weber?
 do i use the 20r cam also?
 Jimmy 82Toy4x4 L.B.
 purnrgy@quancon.com
 http://www.geocities.com/baja/6397/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 98 10:52:43 -0400
 From: Sampa  Subject: Winch Warn M5000
 To: "Toyota 4x4 Digest"  I'm installing a Warn M5000 on my Toy Hilux-Doublecab. I pay really cheap
 for it, considering that a new M8000 (what I really wanted) costs about
 US$1.000 here in Chile. Because of the low capacity of this winch in
 relation with the weight of my truck, I want to build a pulley, to double
 its capacity. DOES ANYBODY HAVE A PICTURE OF A PULLEY, TO HAVE AN IDEA OF
 HOW TO BUILD IT?. Please let me know.
 Thank you very much
 - -------------------------------------------
 Somewhere in the heavens...they are waiting
 Sampa...the MacEvangelizer
 - --------------------------------------------
 1995 Toyota Hilux 4WD 4-Door 2.4EFI 22RE
 31x10.50x15 Pos-A-Traction Radial Trac +
 Gabriel GasRyder LT
 Raised Differential Breathers - Snorkel
 2 x 5gal. Extra Gas Tanks
 - --------------------------------------------
 www.geocities.com/baja/dunes/2802/index.html
 - --------------------------------------------
 - ---      jpgw@entelchile.net  CHILE      ---
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 06:59:41 -0800
 From: "Farrales, Deo"  Subject: xmission fluid
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Hey guys,
 Got a question for a friend of mine...I know this one has been brought
 up before, but the archives was no help.  He's got a 95.5 Tacoma 4cyl
 and he changed the xmission fluid last night.  He used StaLube (I think
 thats how it's spelled) and now it sometimes shifts rough.  I remember
 reading a thread about problems with the synchro's, but is that
 something that needs some time or is there an additive out there to cure
 it?
 (please respond directly as well as to the list...digestmode :-) )
 Thanks,
 Deo F.  92 4Runner V6
 97 TJ 4-banger
 Bay Area, CA
 http://www.off-road.com/~fakawee
 ------------------------------
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