Toy4x4 Digest          Fri, 17 Jan 97 00:30:03 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue  43
 Today's Topics:
 "opposing" shocks on 4Runner
 86 22RE timing chain cover
 Bio
 camden superchargers
 chirp, chirp
 Full Floater plus disc brakes!
 headers
 HORN WIRING (2 msgs)
 IFS parts for sale
 Lockers and Lift Qs (2 msgs)
 Low Fuel Light
 Personal Information
 question
 Rancho RS9000
 Shock mounting on 4Runners (3 msgs)
 SuperChargers
 Tacoma (4 msgs)
 Tacoma's
 Timing Chain
 Timing Chain removal (2 msgs)
 Toy4x4 Digest V1 #42
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:47:12 -0600
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: "opposing" shocks on 4Runner
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Ewong wrote:>The reason is correct - its to help reduce unwanted axle movement - in>particular the>tendency for the axle to> 1 - rotate up/down (pinion gear cimbs the ring)> 2 - rotate left/right (one wheel pushes harder then the other)>>This tendency is normally described as axle "tramp" in car parlance (aka>Mustangs and Camaros)
 In the 4x4 truck arena we call it axle wrap, I've got a kinked set of
 rear springs at home to show you just how bad it can be when You've
 built your spring pack to soft, didn't have traction bars and give
 a little too much of the long slender pedal on the right trying to
 climb that obstacle.
 The kinked springs pitched the pinion up a bit too high and the pinion
 bearing got toasted on the 300 mi. drive home ... Ouch !
 -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/
 Decatur, AL
 '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT
 Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
 SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 97 08:26:02 MST
 From: chott@aicd.sps.mot.com (Jim Chott)
 Subject: 86 22RE timing chain cover
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org>I also have a '86 22RE, automatic 4Runner that I HAVE changed out the>timing chainand associated sprockets. You DO have to remove the head>to access the timing chain cover. I would strongly recommend getting a>toyota service manual for your truck for your specific year. I have one>and could not have done the job with out it. Once you have it all back>together, you have to set up the timing, and rocker arm gap, which>this manual shows you how. I spent about $300 dollars on parts and>gaskets. The dealership wanted about $1100 to do the same job.
 I changed the timing chain on my 85 22RE and did NOT have to remove
 the head.  I went the other way and dropped the oil pan.  You do have
 to remove the valve cover to get at one of the bolts that holds the
 timing cover on.  My truck is a straight axle so you may have more trouble
 getting your oil pan off with the IFS.  At any rate, the head does not
 have to come off for any other reason.  The timing chain cover is sort of
 clamped between the oil pan and head, so I reasoned that only one had to
 come off, I think it's your choice which one.  I didn't want to mess with
 something that didn't leak (the head gasket).
 Jim Chott
 rzaa80@email.mot.com
 1985 4Runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 17:00:23 -0800
 From: Patrick Kullenberg  Subject: Bio
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Name:Patrick (Pat) Kullenberg
 City & State:Signal Hill , Ca
 Country:USA
 E-mail address:kullenberg@worldnet.att.net
 Toyota (s) year & model: None at present (shopping for summer purchase)
 Are you a TLCA Member (Y/N/Number?):no
 Age:61
 Occupation:Eng Test Pilot - McDonnell Douglas (soon to be Boeing)
 Marital Status:M
 Hobbies:Driving trips, computers, retirement planning
 How did you find out about the Toyota 4x4 Mailing List:Net browsing
 General info about your vehicle, self, etc.:currently have a Sub Outback
 (wifes car) and am considering a 4Runner.  Planningon retireing to the
 mtns of western NC in the next 2 yrs.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:47:14 -0600
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: camden superchargers
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Raymond Kwong Gee  wrote:>I am a new member to this list and this is my first question to all.>Has anyone ever installed a camden supercharger on their 22RE Toyota>engine?  If yes, I would like to hear your comments.  Northwest Off-Road>Specialties, in Bellingham, Washington sells this unit but I want an>unbias opinion.
 I don't have one but I'll give you my take on it anyway. For the
 amount of money you've got to put into the super charger and the
 engine modifications necessary to your engine,
 Why not just drop in a V6 of some sort and be making
 more power from an engine in stock condition than from an engine that
 is being highly tweaked .... you can just imagine which engine (the
 stock V6 or the *highly* modified 22RE) is going to last longer...
 My $.02 ...
 -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/
 Decatur, AL
 '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT
 Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
 SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 00:27:37 -0500 (EST)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: chirp, chirp
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-01-16 12:25:17 EST, you write:> I to have a chirping something when it is>      cold, however. Goes away pretty fast.>>  						Bruce
 My 90 Toy has a chirping sound too.  Sounds like it comes from somewhere
 under the dash.  I just tell my friends that the squirrel under the hood is
 hungry and I need to feed him!
 David
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 13:48:43 -0800
 From: richardy@dense-pac.com (Richard Yabuki)
 Subject: Full Floater plus disc brakes!
 To:  If anyone is still interested in rear disc brakes for trucks or runners
 there's good news and bad news. Good news first, talked to Ollie down at
 Summers Bro's racing and he said that their full floater rearend is ready
 to go and for another $500 he will put disc brakes on the rear also. Now
 for the bad news, you guessed it $, the price for the full floater is $1100
 but, for what Downey was going to charge for the brakes alone, you could
 have a disc brakes and a full floater in the rear! I didn't really ask him
 if he could just do the rear disc brake conversion alone, I was on my lunch
 break and had to get back to work. I guess I could call and see what he
 says when I have time or if anyone would like to call direct and speak to
 Ollie his # is (909) 986-2041 and tell him Richard referred you.
 Richard Yabuki   Member # 5134
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 23:53:51 -0700
 From: "fourxtoy@mail.thuntek. net"  Subject: headers
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I am about to purchase a header from Downey for my '83 22r. Has> anyone had much experience with header wrap? Good or bad please let me> know what you think. One magazine article said the wrap will void the> warranty on some headers, I wonder if overheating could be an issue.>> I purchased a Tri-Y header from Northwest Offroad for my '86 4Runner
 and noticed quite a bit of horspower gain when accelerating and just
 around town driving.  The warrenty stated that using header wrap
 would defenitely void the warrenty.
 FourXtoy@ThunTek.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 18:25:54 -0700
 From: Jeff kufeldt  Subject: HORN WIRING
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 GOOD DAY ALL YOU TOYOTA FANS . THIS IS MY FIRST E-MAIL FOR YOU ALL.
 I HAVE A 1990 4RUNNER. ITS AN AWSOME MACHINE WITH ONE PROBLEM.THE HORN
 SOUNDS LIKE THE ROADRUNNER FROM HELL.YOU KNOW THAT BEEP BEEP!
 WELL ANY WAY , I TORE A HORN OUT OF AN OLD CHEVY BOOGIE VAN (THINKING A
 HORN IS A HORN);AND I AM HAVING TROUBLE WIRING IT INTO MY TRUCK.CAN
 ANYONE OUT THERE TELL ME HOW ONE WOULD GO ABOUT THIS? KEEP ON TRUCKIN'
 JEFF K. EDMONTON .
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 18:30:37 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: HORN WIRING
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I AM HAVING TROUBLE WIRING IT INTO MY TRUCK.CAN> ANYONE OUT THERE TELL ME HOW ONE WOULD GO ABOUT THIS? KEEP ON TRUCKIN'> JEFF K. EDMONTON .
 First off, WHY ARE YOU YELLING AT US?
 I also have a Chevy horn in my 4Runner (1988).  That is until tomorrow.
 I ordered the Hella twin air horn set.  :)  Commuting will never be the
 same.
 Anyway...The reason your having trouble wiring it up is this.  The
 toyota horns use two connectors (one + and one - ).  The + is always hot
 (it always has 12volts).  When you hit the horn button, the horn is
 grounded and makes noise.
 The Chevy horn has only one connector.  It is for the + (positive).  The
 negative connection is made when you mount the horn.  The case grounds
 itself when it touches metal.
 So, you'll have to use your imagination to mount this...here are some
 steps to follow.
 1)  Your going to need to connect the Positive wire from the truck to
 the connector on     the Chevy horn.
 2)  The negative wire from the truck you'll need to connect to the case
 of the horn.
 3)  This is the last, and hardest part.  You need to mount the horn so
 that no part of     the case (of the horn) touches any metal part of the
 truck.  To mount mine I used     a very short plastic sleve around the
 bolt of the horn, along with some plastic     washers.  That way when
 you attatch horn (using the bolt)  The case is not            actually
 touching the metal on the truck. This is easier done that described.
 You     may decide this is just too much work and go get a horn with a
 case that is not       the ground (or negative).
 To make my installation trickier, once I got my horn mounted and working
 properly I tried to reinstall the grill.  I have an SR5, so my grill has
 the chrome plating on the plastic grill.  You guesses it!  It conducts
 electricity really well.  So I tried to put the grill on, and the horn
 went off.  I ended up using some plastic tape on the grill to insulate
 it from the case of the horn.  Overall a pretty lame way to put in a
 horn.  Plus it doesn't sound all that much better than what Toyota had
 in there.  I'm sure my Hella air horns will be a significant
 improvement.
 Scott
 - --
 Scott A. Wilson            __o          __o          __o         __o
 Santa Clara, CA          _'\<,_       _'\<,_       _'\<,_      _'\<,_
 swilson@pacbell.net     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)    (_)' (_)
 http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:59:05 -0600
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: IFS parts for sale
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I've got some parts left over from my IFS-to-solid axle conversion
 if someone wants 'em let me know, I'll put 'em on you cheap!
 Here's what I've got left:
 - Right and left half shafts (both have good cv boots)
 - Brake rotors (2) - good shape - lots of rotor left
 - Upper A-arms
 - Piece that links upper/lower arms w/spindle on it (2)
 - wheel bearings w/axle hub
 - skid plate
 email for prices
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:20:35 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Lockers and Lift Qs
 To: "        -         (052)DRM033 (a) aol.com"  David:
 In order to truly answer your Q, one has to be asked of you - WHY?
 In other words - why are you attempting to get 4" + 3" = 7" of lift?
 Usually the answer is so that you can mount tyres sized 44" or larger.
 First - even it the "kit add" worked - there  is NOT enough room in the
 fenderwells
 to have those big meats move through that range of motion. You might get the
 lift, but you definately CANT have the travel.
 Second - even if the lift worked - the FIREWALL of the truck will probably
 interfere - as
 well as the leading edge of the doors.
 OK - so far we have (assuming you do the labor) ~ $500 for the Downey Kit and ~
 $500 for
 the ProComp (Im guessing) Add another ~$500 or lots more for labor (assuming
 you find
 a shop willing to engage in what in many states is an illegal lift for a road
 certified vehicle).
 OK - cut apart the fender wells and fenders
 OK - Hammer / modify/weld the firewall and the door (prabaly ahve to convert to
 sucide doors
 or take them off or something
 Be prepared to break parts - the torsion bars mounts, A arms mounts etc are not
 going to take
 the stresses associated with big tyres
 Lets assume that the brakes can actually STOP those tyres
 Perhaps spend $$ on new brakes
 Get Mondo rear springs for the rear -
 either fabricafe a subframe assembly to lower the spring mounts OR
 get very little travel (spring has too much arch)
 I you REALLY want those monster meats -
 Id swap the front axle to a solid axle......
 Some additional suspension geometry points
 Unless the piviot points are moved -
 turning radius will be the State of Kansas
 cornering will get "dangerous" as the tyre "tips" with such a relatively
 short swing arm..
 (if you look at IFS race trucks that have 33"-35" tyres - the A arms go all
 the way to the
 center of the truck - and the engine is moved to the passenger compartment to
 make room for the suspension)
 Do some reading - start with Herb Adams Chasis Dynamics
 then try Paul Van Volkenberg's RaceCar Engineerg
 read all of the Carrol Smith books
 THEN you can ask me again - why it wont work
 EWong
 - ------------
 I was really interested in the specific problems that could come from such a
 combination.  My line of thinking was that the ProComp lift I have (4 in)
 basically retains the stock geometry of the lower A arms, and the tortion
 bars are not changed.  This being so, I figured that a kit such as the Downey
 long travel kit (example only)  could possibly work.  I was looking for
 someone who knew the actual workings of the Downey kit and could think this
 out a little better.  I guess I figured since the ProComp kit was essentially
 a copy of the stock setup, unly lower, a long travel kit might work.  If you
 could address this question I have, I would love to get this out of my head
 if it won't work.
 Also, as far as these long travel kits, I was mainly interested in a strength
 increase over the stock parts.  My question about the ARB in the IFS I did
 not explain clearly.  I understood that the IFS R&P and the rear R&P from a
 Toy 2x4 were the same size, 7.5 in.  In the Downey catalog, the part # for
 the R&P from these two examples are the same.  My thinking was that if these
 were the same, that an ARB that fits one, would fit the other.  I was
 wondering if anyone else had looked into this.  If this were true, the only
 other possible problems could come from fitting the ARB in the carrier, or
 from the weaknes of the CV joints & axles.  Anyway, I just want to get this
 settled, so I can stop turning it over and over in my head.  Thanks for the
 reply!
 David Moore
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 00:44:48 -0500 (EST)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: Lockers and Lift Qs
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-01-16 09:16:32 EST, Ewong wrote:> In order to truly answer your Q, one has to be asked of you - WHY?>  In other words - why are you attempting to get 4" + 3" = 7" of lift?> I appreciate the reply, bit I think you jumped a little too far ahead of me.
 The main reason was that I already have the 4 in IFS lift, and am reluctant
 to ditch all this and put in a solid axle.  Why this much lift?  Well, I
 really want 36 in tires (44's are not even a thought), and I really DON'T
 want a body lift.  If someone can tell me another way to get 36's on my
 truck, I will be glad to listen.
 As far as the cost factor, I really wouldn't expect to pay someone to do
 the work when I can do it myself.  Anyway, I was mainly interested in things
 such as whether there would be any mechanical problems with such a setup.  I
 know many people scream about "home-made" lifts, but how do you think the
 first lift was done?  I still fail to see reasons why such a combination
 would not work, keeping in mind some "reasonable limits".  Maybe I am just
 stupid... still, don't worry, I am not planning on trying this idea out any
 time soon.
 I really appreciate the info about putting the rear diff in the IFS front.
 I may go that way.
 Thanks,
 David
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 10:37:05 -0800
 From: Paul Whitaker  Subject: Low Fuel Light
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 When I had my Toy 88 pickup, my low fuel light would come on when I
 would be on severe incline's facing down in local off-road area's, then
 would go back up to 2-3 gallons once level and turn off.  I think Toyota
 makes the fuel guage look like you have less gas than you really do so
 that you won't try to push it to the limit.  For fear of people seeing
 your "Toyota" on the side of the road!>> Alright!  I just got my low fuel light to come on!  Needle on the gas> gauge was in the middle of the E-line, and the light wasn't on yet.> This is usually about when I chicken out and filler up.  But before I> did I went to a loading dock on the back of building (near a gas> station)  and backed my 88 4Runner SR5 up the ramp so it's butt was> pointing up to the sky and let it sit there for a minute.  After 30sec> to a min. the light came on.  With the rear end elevated the fuel gauge> needle was almost touching the bottom of the E-line.>> I filled it up and it took 14.9 gallons in a 17.2 gal. tank.  But the> light wasn't coming on with the truck level, only with the rear> elevated.  I'd estimate the light will come on with 1-1.5 gallons left.> I feel a little more reassured know it works.>> Scott>> --> Scott A. Wilson  #5261     __o          __o          __o         __o> Santa Clara, CA          _'\<,_       _'\<,_       _'\<,_      _'\<,_> swilson@pacbell.net     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)     (_)' (_)    (_)' (_)> http://users.uniserve.com/~rcomber/scottw/scottw.htm
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 00:25:55 -0700
 From: Steve Feiler  Subject: Personal Information
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Name          : Steve Feiler
 Location      : Fort Collins, Colorado
 Country       : USA
 E-Mail Addr   : stevef@holly.colostate.edu
 Toyota Owned  : 1986 Std. Cab 4x4
 TLCA Member   : No (Not Yet)
 Age           : 24
 Occupation    : Student/Pizzeria Manager
 Marital Status: Single
 Hobbies       : Skiing, Skydiving, Offroading
 Find Out About: Internet Searches
 Vehicle Info  : 1986 Toy 4x4
 22R Engine, 154k miles
 5-Speed Manual Transmission, 4.56 gears
 4" Trailmaster Suspension Lift (Still IFS)
 33x12.5x15 Goodyear All-Terrains on Black/Chrome rims
 Custom Front Bumper
 Custom Rear Bumper
 Single Large Tube Roll bar w/6 lights custom built
 Custom rebuilt rear suspension (leaf setup)
 Alpine CD w/10" Subs, Amps, etc.
 Alpine Alarm w/radar/other sensors
 Nissan Bucket Seats, Center Console
 Grant GT Steering Wheel, Tachometer added
 Also for sale if interested...  :)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 23:13:12 +0000
 From: *************** P A U L   N G U Y E N ***************  Subject: question
 To: TOYOTA CLUB  i'm thinking about upgrading my air filter element and exhaust system.
 i've heard some good things about the K&N air filter system.  i am
 wondering if this would be a worthwhile thing to do.  all i really want
 to know is if there is any real noticeable difference in power for a
 later model toyota (1993 4cyl).  if anyone has any info about this topic
 please lemme know. thanks.
 -paul
 (pkn7564@acs.tamu.edu)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 14:14:48 -0800
 From: twogrls@ix.netcom.com
 Subject: Rancho RS9000
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 You wrote:> thinking of upgrading my shocks to the RANCHO RS9000's.  that way i could> set them on soft setting for the streets, but still have the ability to> set them on stiffer settings for my rare off-road incidents.  i would> like a 2-3 inch suspension lift but...   well, i can't afford it right> now being a college student, heh.
 If you can wait save your pennies and get the 9000's. I have them on my 94
 extra cab and love them. they especally make a differance with the tires
 aired down offroad and on long highway drives. I would like the in cab
 adjuster so that I can play withthem more but its not high enough on my
 priority list.
 Make sure you consider any future lifts you want to do when sizing the
 shocks. you do not want to shell out that kind of money and then have them
 be too short in a year. They were easy to install and I shopped the ads in
 all the offroad magazines and ended up getting mine from Desert Rat they had
 a sale a year ago and I picked up a set of four for $200 plus shipping.,
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 Mike Pelland						1994 Red Extracab Toyota
 twogrls@ix.netcom.com					31X10,5 BFGs, Lockrite
 San Antonio, TX 						Ramsey Winch, RS9000;s
 Tread lightly, TLCA Member				etc., etc., etc.
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 ------------------------------
 Date: 16 Jan 1997 08:30:16 U
 From: "Jay Kopycinski"  Subject: Shock mounting on 4Runners
 To: "Toyota 4x4 List"  Subject:                              Time:  1:28 PM
 OFFICE MEMO         Shock mounting on 4Runners            Date:  1/15/97
 Daniel Richard Webster  wrote:>I noticed that the shocks>are mounted on different sides of the axle and pointing in different>directions...>Now my question is, did Toyota do this for any reason, other than to save>money by using the same shock/spring mount?>I was wondering, can this cause the axle to be twisted with one side>moving forward, and the other moving back if both tyres hit a bump at the>same time?
 Ed provided some very good info on this setup. I have several other
 observations I can add. On the passenger side, the shock pretty much
 has to be angled backwards due to the gas tank location.
 Seems the driver side shock could be mounted either way. I think,
 however, that (what I'll call) backwards leaning shocks have a
 poor geometry due to what may be dead spots in the dampening
 action. I think this could occur when the axle is compressing,
 moving both backwards and upward. Seems there could be a range
 or ranges of motion where the shock length changes little or not
 at all.
 Nonsense?
 Jay Kopycinski   '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)
 Gilbert, AZ
 ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 10:55:16 -0800
 From: Paul Whitaker  Subject: Shock mounting on 4Runners
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I was wondering if any of you have tried the Downey rear-end shock mount
 kit which you weld the barcket up top, so that you can mount the shocks
 in the back supposedly for more travel in the back.  Or is the stock
 setup adequate with longer travel shocks?  I am planning my new trucks
 suspension when I get it (85 or later), I plan on seeing you Jay and
 Jack at the Rubicon this year(hopefully).
 Paul
 Jay Kopycinski wrote:>>                       Subject:                              Time:  1:28 PM>   OFFICE MEMO         Shock mounting on 4Runners            Date:  1/15/97>> Daniel Richard Webster  wrote:>>>I noticed that the shocks>>are mounted on different sides of the axle and pointing in different>>directions...>>Now my question is, did Toyota do this for any reason, other than to save>>money by using the same shock/spring mount?>>I was wondering, can this cause the axle to be twisted with one side>>moving forward, and the other moving back if both tyres hit a bump at the>>same time?>> Ed provided some very good info on this setup. I have several other> observations I can add. On the passenger side, the shock pretty much> has to be angled backwards due to the gas tank location.>> Seems the driver side shock could be mounted either way. I think,> however, that (what I'll call) backwards leaning shocks have a> poor geometry due to what may be dead spots in the dampening> action. I think this could occur when the axle is compressing,> moving both backwards and upward. Seems there could be a range> or ranges of motion where the shock length changes little or not> at all.>> Nonsense?>> Jay Kopycinski   '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)> Gilbert, AZ> ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 10:55:49 -0800
 From: Paul Whitaker  Subject: Shock mounting on 4Runners
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I was wondering if any of you have tried the Downey rear-end shock mount
 kit which you weld the barcket up top, so that you can mount the shocks
 in the back supposedly for more travel in the back.  Or is the stock
 setup adequate with longer travel shocks?  I am planning my new trucks
 suspension when I get it (85 or later), I plan on seeing you guys, Jay,
 Jack and whoever else at the Rubicon this year(hopefully).
 Paul
 Jay Kopycinski wrote:>>                       Subject:                              Time:  1:28 PM>   OFFICE MEMO         Shock mounting on 4Runners            Date:  1/15/97>> Daniel Richard Webster  wrote:>>>I noticed that the shocks>>are mounted on different sides of the axle and pointing in different>>directions...>>Now my question is, did Toyota do this for any reason, other than to save>>money by using the same shock/spring mount?>>I was wondering, can this cause the axle to be twisted with one side>>moving forward, and the other moving back if both tyres hit a bump at the>>same time?>> Ed provided some very good info on this setup. I have several other> observations I can add. On the passenger side, the shock pretty much> has to be angled backwards due to the gas tank location.>> Seems the driver side shock could be mounted either way. I think,> however, that (what I'll call) backwards leaning shocks have a> poor geometry due to what may be dead spots in the dampening> action. I think this could occur when the axle is compressing,> moving both backwards and upward. Seems there could be a range> or ranges of motion where the shock length changes little or not> at all.>> Nonsense?>> Jay Kopycinski   '85 Toylet  (ROKTOY)> Gilbert, AZ> ryna10@email.sps.mot.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 08:55:32 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: SuperChargers
 To: "        -         (052)rkgee (a) acs.ucalgary.c"  Ray:
 Cant say I have installed the Camden unit
 I do understand that it wont work with the Rancho Lift kit on the IFS trucks
 Also LC Engineering (Lake Hasuva AZ) is working on an Eaton based kit.
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 04:40:13 -1000
 From: Josh Lohmann  Subject: Tacoma
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>Have you checked to see if your rotors are possibly warped?  Also have>you had the alinement checked?>Scott
 Do you think the rotors could be warped on a 3 month old truck? The local
 Toyota shop has done a 4 wheel alignment, which still didn't work.
 Thanks for your input!
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 08:42:36 -0800
 From: lorie@intercoast.com (Lorie Ritchie)
 Subject: Tacoma
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>>Have you checked to see if your rotors are possibly warped?  Also have>>you had the alinement checked?>>>Scott>>Do you think the rotors could be warped on a 3 month old truck? The local>Toyota shop has done a 4 wheel alignment, which still didn't work.>>Thanks for your input!
 You could try and have your tires checked for being out of round.  There
 are places that can shave the tires to make them true.  We had this problem
 years back and truing the tires helped.  Regards Lorie
 lorie@intercoast.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 11:12:47 -0600 (CST)
 From: "Bruce Burden"  Subject: Tacoma
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>> Do you think the rotors could be warped on a 3 month old truck? The local> Toyota shop has done a 4 wheel alignment, which still didn't work.> I would think that warped brake rotors would be felt as
 a pulsating sensation when you lightly apply the brakes. I
 wouldn't expect warped rotors to show up at a particular
 speed range.
 And, no I have neither a vibration at speeds up to 85MPH,
 nor a clicking speedo. I to have a chirping something when it is
 cold, however. Goes away pretty fast.
 Bruce
 - --
 - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Bruce Burden            bruceb@isd.tandem.com         Tandem Computers Inc.
 512-432-8944            Network Verification          14231 Tandem Blvd.
 Auto answer(4 rings)                                  Austin, TX 78726
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 10:00:12 -0800
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Tacoma
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Do you think the rotors could be warped on a 3 month old truck? The local> Toyota shop has done a 4 wheel alignment, which still didn't work.>> Thanks for your input!
 Yes, it is possible.  It depends on how the rotors have been treated
 though.  Well, then again, it's possible they were installed at the
 factory not perfectly true...   If Toyota will pay for it, I'd probably
 go ahead and have them turned.
 Do you notice any other warped rotor symptoms other that the vibrations
 at freeway speeds?  More vibration when applying the brakes at around 45
 mph?  A surging feeling as you truck is coming to a stop at a light?
 Just a thought.
 Good Luck,
 Scott
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:56:34 -0700
 From: johnson@gc.maricopa.edu (Wayne M. Johnson)
 Subject: Tacoma's
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Jan 15th Josh Lohmann wrote:>I have a 97 Tacoma Ext. Cab V6 4x4.>I was wondering, Is any one having any problems with vibrations at 60-70mph>in their Tacoma's? I have the 31's (Good Year Wranglers) and have had it in>the shop two times for what feels like out of balance tires. The shop says>that it is the brand of tires, but that they are not out of balance or out>of round. They have balanced and rotated the tires which still does not>correct the problem. Is anyone else experiencing the same thing?>The speedometer cable also makes a clicking sound when it gets below>freezing. Anybody know what causes this?
 Josh,  I have a '96 Tacoma XCab 4cyl that has had the same problem from day
 1.  I have talked to many Tacoma owners who have had the same problem.  I
 have also been going round and round with the dealer, and the Toyota
 Customer assistance center in Torrance.  It has been 7 months now.  I've
 had it in the shop 5 times for tire balancing, and once they replaced the
 tires (it originally had Firestone ATX, and they replaced them with the
 Goodyear Wranglers).  There was a Toyota Tech Service Bulletin sent to the
 dealers on this shaking problem, and they associated it with the Wranglers
 suggesting the dealers replace the tires.  They also mentioned replacing
 cab mounts, and some driveline stuff.  The Toyota dealer in my area has
 done nothing but balance my tires, and then replacing them with the ones
 Toyota suggests the dealers replace!?  I've talked to one guy out East whos
 Tacoma has the same problem, his local dealership  went a little further
 and replaced his set of tires with some Michelins, and he reports to me
 that the problem has gone away.
 I was referred by Torrance to their regional office in Denver.  The guy who
 called me said he was going to take this to their technician and get back
 to me.  That was like 2 months ago.  There's no way to just call Denver
 either, the only phone you can get to Toyota is the 800 number to Torrance.
 I was then contacted by my dealership about "getting me into another
 vehicle".  That turned out as the dealership wanting me to literally trade
 my vehicle in for a new one, taking the depreciation on my truck and then
 renegotiating a deal to buy the new one (I spent 6  grueling hours with the
 salespeople when I bought the truck the first time - and certainly didn't
 want to do it again)!  The sticker price on the new vehicle was even lower
 than the sticker on the truck I bought 6 months earlier!  This is how
 Toyota deals with lemons.
 Getting Toyota to take responsibility for their product is an ongoing
 nightmare.  Talking to people on the phone in Torrance gets you a different
 representative every time, and nothing happens.  Toyota has done an
 excellent job of keeping the customers out of reach of anyone in their
 corporation who can actually take charge of the problem and do anything
 about it.
 Keep in mind that I am a dedicated 5 time Toyota owner.  My last vehicle
 (which I traded in for the Tacoma) was an '83 4x4 which was the best
 vehicle I (or anyone I've known) has ever owned!   You'd think Toyota would
 take care of a loyal customer.  It appears they don't give a s--t, and I am
 completely dismayed about Toyota's claims of customer service, and claims
 of customer satisfaction.  Every time I see a Toyota commercial on TV my
 blood pressure rises! ;-)
 So Josh, good luck on getting Toyota to fix your Tacoma.  They sure haven't
 tried to fix mine.  Let me know" what they do for you".
 - ------------------------------------------------------------
 Wayne M. Johnson-Lab Science Technician/Adjunct Faculty
 Geology and Applied Sciences Department
 Glendale Community College
 6000 W. Olive Avenue
 Glendale, Arizona   85302
 (602) 435-3217, Internet: johnson@gc.maricopa.edu
 - ------------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 97 09:34:27 -0600
 From: Philip Farrish   Subject: Timing Chain
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, Ed.Wong@astramerck.com> Phil>> I have an 89 4Runner witn 220K on it -> Uh - why did you have to replace the chain at 140K?>> If you see Jack - tell him I cant really send a check until later in
 the month..>>> EWong> Well this is the deal:  A buddy  of mine has an 88 4Runner and his cam
 sprocket BLEW up at 134,000. I think his chain cut into the water jacket
 and got hung up,  causing the mishap.   Why I don't know.  That made me
 think about mine.  All these people on the net talk aout changing it
 around 130k,  So I just decided to do it.  All the parts I replaced
 looked good as new.  The tensioner barely had a groove in it.  The
 guides looked new.  Another friend of mine has an 85 4Runner and it has
 256k.  He doesn't seem woried about the chain either. (LIKE YOU)  The
 only advise I have to give anybody is to change your oil regularly,and
 listen for funny noises in the engine.  If I heard anything out of the
 ordinary, I would pull the valve cover , and look at the guides.  You
 probably can see the with a flashlight.  If they are cut into, it prob.
 means that your chain is cutting into the water jacket.  (Replace the
 chain)
 Phil
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:19:28 -0500
 From: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 Subject: Timing Chain removal
 To: "        -         (052)BCSTOY (a) aol.com"  Frank
 Nice tip on dropping the pan instead of pulling the head.....BUT
 On my IFS 88/89 4Runner - I cant drop the pan w/o pulling the axle out..
 (I was repacing the thrust bearings)
 EWong
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 14:56:14 -0500 (EST)
 From: BCSTOY@aol.com
 Subject: Timing Chain removal
 To: Ed.Wong@astramerck.com
 I think you still can do it but you may have to losen the engine mounts and
 lift the engine up to give you enough room to get the oil pan out. I have
 done
 it in 2wd and solid axles 4bys but not in IFS.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 06:49:36 -0600
 From: "Edward C. Fisher"  Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #42
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 At 12:30 AM 1/16/97, you wrote:>>I believe it was GM that first discovered that simply placing the shocks>(or more appropiately called dampers) in opposite directions in the>front to back planes solved much of the axle tramp problems for basicly>no cost. (on leaf sprung live axles)>>EWong>>------------------------------> Affirmative.  1967 Camaros experienced wheel 'hop' under hard acceleration.
 1968 Camaros and later have opposing shocks to clear that problem.
 Ed F.> - ------------------------------------------------------
 Edward C. Fisher                 E-Mail: edwd@ti.com
 Process Engineering Team         Phone: (214) 995-6305
 DMD Components Group             Pager: (214) 410-4669
 Texas Instruments, Inc.          MSGID: EDWD
 - ------------------------------------------------------
 ------------------------------
 Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 23:03:36 -0800
 From: "Craig Blanchette"  To:  This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
 - ------=_NextPart_000_01BC0338.566BF9A0
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
 I have a 1982 Toyota Short box. I am putting a chevy drivetrain into the
 vehicle. Either a 350 or 400, auto, 205 transfer, and then modified
 driveshafts to connect to the toyota axles. Has anyone done this? I need to
 know what problems I am going to run into and would appreciate any advice
 that you could give. Thanks Craig Blanchette at blanchet@cnx.net
 - ------=_NextPart_000_01BC0338.566BF9A0
 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a 1982 Toyota Short box. I am =
 putting a chevy drivetrain into the vehicle. Either a 350 or 400, auto, =
 205 transfer, and then modified driveshafts to connect to the toyota =
 axles. Has anyone done this? I need to know what problems I am going to =
 run into and would appreciate any advice that you could give. Thanks =
 Craig Blanchette at blanchet@cnx.net
 - ------=_NextPart_000_01BC0338.566BF9A0--
 ------------------------------
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