(by
Rick Colombo COLOMBO@fndcd.fnal.gov & Dan Romanenko romanenkod@gtephx.att.com
June 1993 )
A suspension lift
leaves the body to frame mounting the same. The additional
"clearance" arises from the increase distance from the frame
to the axles (i.e. when vehicle at rest). The geometry for the
drivetrain & steering will be altered.
A body lift has
spacers which are inserted between the frame and body. There is no net
increase in ground clearance (w/ the same tires before/after body lift).
The geometry of the drivetrain / steering is not affected.
A good rule to
thumb is to not lift more than you need for tire clearance.
Suspension lift:
- Increases the center of
gravity more than body lift (remember the engine/frame is lifted too) - Suspension/handling
performance will change, for the better or worse depends on too many
factors to list. - Avoid blocks, they are
dangerous and increase spring wrap. - You may have problems
with:
- shocks (you usually
need longer ones)
- driveshaft(s) (may
not be long enough)
-
transmission/transfer case (may need shims)
- front-end alignment
(may need larger shims)
- may need *dropped*
pitman arm
Body lift:
- The kit is cheap, but
there are a few modifications which raise the cost:
- lowering the
radiator (especially if you have a shroud)
- lowering clutch
linkage (for manuals, don't know about automatics)
- gas filler neck
- steering column may
not extend enough (the gear box is on the frame)
- brake lines (from
the master cylinder to the frame)
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