Your Jeep Questions Answered by Jeep Creep
No Jeep recalls this month.
Previous Jeep Creep
The rear axle in my 2003 TJ (Dana 44) is bringing fluid up and out around the yoke shaft. I replaced the seal and oil slinger but it is still doing it. I also made sure the breather tube was clear. Any ideas?
Yeah, Shane, you either have a bad seal or the bearings have gone bad. Since you’ve already replaced the seal, my money is on the bearings. But you could have also installed the seal incorrectly.
Upgrading a TJ
I have a 1998 TJ with 4.0 5-speed and a 1999 RT Dakota 2-wheel drive with the 5.9L engine and an automatic transmission. What do I have to do as far as putting the 5.9 in the TJ? Will my transmission in the Jeep mate with the 5.9L out of the Dakota?
Myrtle Beach, SC
Rick, you’ll have to do some research on this subject. I could tell you the information that I found on Advance Adapters’ website, but I think you’d enjoy it more if you found it yourself. Click on www.advanceadapters.com, and if you can’t find the specific information you seek there, give them a call.
Mini Six-Banger Mileage
What sort of mileage should I expect to be getting with the 3.4L engine? I have a 1986 Jeep Comanche with the 2.8L four cylinder engine and I am thinking about upgrading to the 3.4L with a 4-barrel carburetor.
Well, Dave, a carburetor might work in Florida but here in the West EFI (electronic fuel injection) rules! If you go wheeling anywhere that you’ll find hills, rocks, or fallen logs, I’d strongly suggest forgetting carburetion and go with EFI (likewise with the 3.4L V6). It would probably be cheaper to use a GM 4.3L (they’re more plentiful), it would accommodate more aftermarket products, and you’d have more power for the interstate and off-roading. Either way, I suggest you also click on www.advanceadapters.com.
I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler 4.0. I am having starting issues. I will explain the best I can. When I get in the vehicle and turn the key to the on position, the check engine light does not come on. Whenever I wait anywhere from 1 to 5 minutes the ASD and fuel pump relay will start clicking. Then about a minute of that and I will then hear the TPS turn on and the check engine light will come on, and the Jeep will start. I have replaced the ASD and fuel pump relay, crankshaft position sensor, cam sensor, and PCM/computer. I have cleaned or replaced all ground connections under the hood—maybe not all but as many as I could find—and I have replaced the positive and negative cables for the battery. I have checked all fuses with an ohmmeter and they seem fine. I have had the Jeep at two different shops now and no one has been able to fix this little problem. This has been an ongoing problem for about 6 months now. After countless hours of research and cleaning electrical connections I am unable to locate the problem.
It sounds to me, Charles, that you may have a bad ignition, a bad connection, or a bad ECM. Start with making sure the ignition grounding point is clean and shiny. Second step would be installing a new ignition switch, making sure its connector in the steering column is clean, bright, and shiny. If the problem persists, start at the new ignition switch and check each circuit coming out of the steering column.
YJ Axle Swap
I have a ‘92 YJ Wrangler and I am looking to do a rear axle swap (a Ford 8.8-inch from around a ‘98-01 Ford Explorer). I also want to beef up my front axle to a similar size and strength. Can I use a front axle from the same Ford or what? What do you suggest for a front axle swap?
Andrews AFB, MD
Well, Zach, I don’t think you’d like to slide an IFS axle under your Jeep, would you? I suggest you call Dynatrac or check their website (www.dynatrac.com). I installed one of their heavy-duty Dana 44 units under my JK Unlimited and I’m very happy with it. They make one tough product!
I have an ‘86 CJ7 that I bought last year. A previous owner had replaced the original steering wheel with a Grant and removed the turn signal cancelling cam and all its parts. I replaced the broken turn signal switch and ordered a new cancelling cam. When I reassembled the parts, the cam is pushed too far down on the column by the retaining plate and spring-loaded clip so it activates the horn constantly. When I remove the new cam, the horn works only by pushing down on the steering column. While this may seem to work, it is not how it’s supposed to be. The Chilton manual provides an exploded view of the column and the order of reassembly, but it doesn’t explain about the horn issue. Any ideas what may be wrong?
I have a Grant wheel on my ’82 CJ7 and I remember it had some initial horn problems as well. What you need to do, Dave, is order the correct parts from your Grant steering wheel supplier. The Jeep OEM parts won’t work properly.
I have a 1988 Jeep Wrangler with 31-inch tires. How many mpg should I be getting, and what can I do to get more power out of this rebuilt 4.2?
San Antonio, TX
Well, Mark, personally, I’d forget the 4.2L and go with a V8 like I did in my ’82 CJ7. However, that’s not what you asked. Since you failed to tell me what gear ratio you have, or which transmission, I have no way to estimate your mileage expectations. I will tell you to install EFI on the 4.2L for more power, more dependability, and probably better mileage.
I am having a miserable time finding engine paint for my 1980 360 Jeep motor, preferably in a spray can. I hear it’s blue but no one can tell me for sure or give me a paint number. Can you help or at least send me in the right direction?
Stop by your local NAPA dealer, Scott. They have their own brand and Krylon, both in rattle cans. And they should be able to help you with the correct color as well.
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As usual, each month, I’m shouting out a huge THANK YOU to Paul Schupp at Rock Lizard 4x4 in Kingman, Arizona, for his invaluable assistance in answering many of the Jeep Creep questions.