Father's day is over and I didn't get a new Jeep.  I kept hinting, and hinting.  The kids just didn't get it? I guess it's a Jeep Thing or, like the rest of us they have to work for a living.

Summer is here on the Palouse!  The heads are on the wheat and soon it will turn very, very gold!  That's the color of money out here on the Palouse, that and the green/brown of peas and lentils.  It's a good place to live!  You've all got to come to eastern Washington State.  It's a nice place to live and vacation!

Does anyone remember the old camel bag?  It was a rubberized burlap bag that was slung over the front of a truck/car that held a couple of gallons of water.  When you were running down the road and the engine overheated you'd pour the contents of the camel bag into the engine and keep on going.  Next time you watch the Grapes of Wrath you'll see them hanging off those vintage trucks and cars.  That's the next purchase for my Jeep.  It won't do a whole lot, but I think it adds character, kind of like the blitz cans on the back.  Sometimes you have to just make a statement!

This month is a good time to get ready for the heat of summer.  Check the engine coolant.  Change it if it's not been changed in the last two years.  New engine coolant will help keep the water pump lubed, lower engine temps and keep scale from building up in the radiator and engine.

Check your radiator hoses for weak areas.  Replace as necessary.

Clean out the fins in the radiator.  Bug splatters are acidic and will destroy a radiator in no time at all.  And guess when it will go?  Yep, it will fail on the hottest day of the year.  If you blow it out once a year and even put a light coat of flat black paint on the radiator fins it will go a long way to keeping the radiator healthy.  Many radiators rot from the outside in, not form the inside out.  And it only takes a little time, a couple of bucks and effort.  It can save you a BIG tow bill, or even the price of an engine.

Look at your oil.  Change it for the right viscosity for the expected heat in your area.  Winter's over!  Get with the program!  Protect you Jeep!

If you've got an Automatic Transmission check the ATF for burned or dark fluid.  If it's dark or burned, change the filter and the ATF.

Don't forget the belts and pulleys.  When a belt dies, or an idler pulley is squealing, it's going to be a bad day.  Why not just replace them on a bi-yearly basis?  It's worth the money and the piece of mind.

Remember that you're your own best mechanic!  You can do most of the work yourself to keep your Jeep reliable and on the road (or off it, if that's you style).

Enjoy a trouble free summer.  I know I will.

 LEVE Note:  Remember when you send in your questions DO NOT CHANGE THE SUBJECT LINE.  If you do change the message line the email will be put in the trash by my email filter.  I'll never see it.

So, keep the questions coming, and I'll attempt to keep answering them.  I may not answer every one of them, but I do read every one that is sent to me.  With that said, it's on to the ol' Jeep mailbag.

Hi,

Well it is time to replace those piece of ---- fender flares on my 2000 Wrangler. I have factory 15x8 with 30's. 

 I don't have any examples to check out in my area. I've read plus and minus about Bushwhacker, Xenon, and Bestop flares.

I will not be painting my replacements and I want to keep the "look right" for stock white TJ.  Quality and fit is very important.  I guess I want it all.  Any Thoughts?

Thanks,

Terry

Hi Terry,

Fender flares are a difficult thing to discuss.  After all they're plastic, and cost a whole lot and are often instantly destroyed if you scrape a tree (or a parking meter).  Flares leave a bad taste in my mouth!

Aside from having the guys at the Islamabad 4X4 Club make you a set of handmade metal flares (which are too cool for words) then I think I'd go with Xenon or Bestop. 

If you're replacing the flares due to fading the try touching up the flares.  You can oil 'em, paint 'em or use heat.  Krylon makes "Fusion" paint for plastic that seems pretty good.  It will coat nicely and form a coat that can be somewhat flexed.  The stuff's about $4 a can at WallMart.  If painting won't cut it, try a heat gun or a propane torch to renew the flare.  Heat seems to restore the original finish to the flare.  Just apply the heat to the flare and like magic it will have it's nice black finish again as you work across the flare.  Of course, you can't over heat the flare, as it's plastic and it can melt or catch fire.  But this DOES work for simple restoration.

LEVE

Jeep Crew,

 I am the owner of a 99 Jeep Wrangler.  I have an automatic transmission and  4x4 capabilities.  The Jeep has spent its first 30,000 miles in Nebraska.  I  bought it last year with 24,000 miles.

 My point is, I've never had the need for the 4 wheell drive living in Nebraska.  I just recently moved to Southern California and have the following question.  While I'm driving up the 405 Freeway, the Jeep doesn't  want to go any higher than 55 miles an hour.  Since this stretch of Freeway is roughly 7% grade, should I be using my four wheel drive? 

Could I travel any faster? 

 If so, should I leave the four wheel drive engaged all the time, or just on certain roads?  I'm eager to push the Jeep through Malibu Canyon, again is the four wheel drive better for the overall performance of the Jeep?  A Nebraskan living in California who just so happens to be a naive but proud Jeep owner.

AARON

Hi Aaron,

Using 4WD on dry pavement isn't a good idea.  It won't help you up the hills and will cause excessive wear and tear on the front end components and transfer case.. 

Being a Nebraska flatlander the hills and mountains in California can be a little unnerving.  If you've got larger tires, or a 4 cyl. engine there's not a lot you can do but regear and perhaps use a larger throttle body on the engine. 

LEVE

Hello...I have a 94 wrangler with a 4 cylinder engine. My oil pressure is going up to 80 psi when I drive on the hwy at around 70 mph. Is this too high and if so what could be causing this. The oil level is good and this is something I have noticed happening recently. Normally in the past it has sat around 60 to 70 psi. The engine has 140k miles. Pleaser let me know what I may need to do. Thank you

Hello Jim

First, Jeep oil pressure senders are famous for having problems reporting the right oil pressure.  That's where I'd start, by replacement of the sender.  Then once you've done that then replace the oil filter.  They can have the bypass valve stick and cause problems.  Let me know if these ideas help.

LEVE

Hello,

I have a 1997 Jeep SE completely stock, base model steel rims, no bells and whistles.

I just aquired 4 fairly new 30x9.5 tires, free from a relative. Can I put these on my Jeep or do I need bigger wheels?

Thanks

Adam

Hi Adam,

Throw those puppies on that Jeep.  It should be OK.  Free is good!

LEVE

Hi

Thanks for your time

How long does a typical jeep engine last?  I saw a 94 Cherokee with 120 000 miles in the paper and hesitated..... i have limited funds and would really like to buy something that will last a couple years if not more and not be something that constantly is a problem.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Slippery Pete

Hi Slippery Pete,

Ya gotta love that name!  Do a compression check on the engine before you buy.  Compare it with the specifications of that year... it should be about 145psi to 150psi, and no more than 10% difference between cylinders.  Also look for oil in the air cleaner, it's a sign of blowby. 

Will it last a couple of years?  It should if you regularly change oil and filters.  I do mine every 2k... without fail and of I've over 250,000 miles on most of my Caravans and Jeeps.

LEVE

LEVE Note:   I've got to figure out a lively LEVE moniker for myself? suggestions are welcome!   I really like that 'Slippery Pete'?

Dear Jeep Creep,

I was hoping you could give me some suggestions. I have a 97 Jeep Wrangler with a 4.0.

I'm have a long crank issue. After getting a tune up I was told it was the fuel pump check valve not holding the fuel pressure. I went ahead and replaced the pump myself but I'm still having the same problem...I have to turn the ignition switch on and off about three time to avoid the long crank then it will start no problem. a little rough idle at first them smoothes out. 

I would appreciate any advice

Thanks,

Jose

Cheers Jose,

Long crank times can be a problem to identify.  It could be a problem with the fuel pump.  When the ignition is turned to RUN the pump will run a couple of seconds to pressurize the fuel line and shut off.  So, try just turning the ignition key to RUN and listen for the pump to come on.  If it's noisy it may need to be replaced.  Then after the pump shuts off try to start the Jeep by turning the ignition key to START.  If the Jeep starts right up, it's a good be the fuel pump is the problem.  You may want to throw on a fuel pressure gauge to see if the pumps within specs.  But, as it's new, I'd bet this won't gain you much.

If not, then I'd be looking at the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) as the culprit.  It can be flaky as well as it's wiring harness and connectors.  This is a known problem.  In you're case, this is where I'd start, by examining the harness and wiring and then perhaps replacement of the CPS.

LEVE

Hello,

I have a 1998 Jeep Wrangler Sport.  I cannot figure out how to take the doors off....do you know?

Thanks:)

G'day

Sure, carefully remove the nuts on the bottom of the door hinge pins.  Be careful or you could mar the paint if the wrench slips!

Then put a little lube on the hinge pins and start opening and closing the door to get the lube working. 

Now just start lifting up on the doors as you open.  This should let you remove the doors.

If not, then get a floor jack and a length of 2"X4".  Open the door to about 20 degrees and cut the 2"X4" to just fit between the floor jack and the bottom FRAME of the door (not the door edge lip).  Now slip the 2"X4" between the door and the jack.  Start lifting on the jack and the door should pop right up.  The weight of the Jeep will loosen the door.

One the doors are off, clean out the hinges and pins and lube them.  If the doors won't come off easily after that, then the doors/hinges will need alignment.  The tub does flex, and that causes some mis-alignment problems.  But that's another Email.

LEVE

Hello I am looking to buy a 2004 SE for towing a small pop up camper (1500lbs) or a small bass boat (1500-2000 lbs). With only a 2000lb rating for towing ( i should be close to that) do I need a anti sway system or brake assisted trailer? I will only be towing for short trips on the weekend, can the 4 cyl handle it?

Amy,

This is a case of the tail wagging the dog.  The Wrangler isn't a tow vehicle, plain and simple.  Its wheelbase is just too darned short.  Lots of people do us 'em for that, but I'm not one of them.  At highway speeds the trailer can soon overwhelm the Jeep and start pushing it all over the highway when braking.  Then you're in trouble.  It can also cause the Jeep to start swerving in the lane, again you're in trouble.

I get lots of mail telling me I'm wrong on this, that the Jeepers tow trailers all the time.  Well, IMHO, it's not a case of if, but when.  At sometime they'll find themselves in trouble with several thousand pounds hurtling down the highway behind them.  That's not a good feeling.

Oh, and the 4 cylinder engine would be woefully underpowered for that use, even if it were a good tow vehicle.

LEVE

Dear Jeep Creep:

I recently lost one of my fog lights off my 97 Jeep Wrangler.  Can I replace this myself?  I know if I take it somewhere to have it done, they will charge me an arm & a leg. (I am female).  Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Angie

Angie,

Of course you can do the job yourself if you've got the proper

So the question is, do you have these items?  If so, it's simply removing the remains of the fog light and installing the new one and plugging it into the harness.

Easy as eatin' pie!  Trust me...you can do this!

LEVE

Hi Jeep Guy,

I am so thankful for this website and for the opportunity to email you for help.  Thank you for providing this service!!  My husband and I have been going crazy trying to figure out what's wrong with our 1991 Jeep Renegade.  If we had the mechanical knowledge, we would take the whole thing apart and clean and check every single piece - down to the bolts.  I hope you can help us.  We've taken the Jeep to many mechanics and not one has been able to figure out what's wrong.  We're running out of money, and it's our main mode of transportation.  Here's the problem:  Sometimes it starts up, and sometimes it doesn't.  Sometimes it suddenly and quietly dies in the middle of the freeway and we don't realize it until we're losing speed.  (Tank full of fuel & Electrical still works).  Other times it will run great for a week.   When it dies while idyling, it shutters.  Many times after we've driven it for ANY length of time, park it, and turn it off, it won't start back up for anything.  Eventually we end up towing it somewhere.  Then, it starts up for the mechanic.  It's like that cartoon WB frog that only dances for it's owner!  The mechanic said the fuel pump worked great.  He drove it around the block a few times.  Then we took it home and it wouldn't start!  We waited a few days, trying off & on, but it wouldn't start.  We towed it to the mechanic and the same scenario played out again.  It seems to act like this more often when it's warm - especially on hot days (but it acts like this in any whether).  Now it doesn't run at all.  It cranks, but doesn't turn over all the way.  Also, the new battery keeps draining.

Here's what we've personally done to it recently to try to fix the problem:

1.) tested the alternator (works fine)

2.) new fuel filter

3.) fuel injection cleaner via gastank

4.)new battery & negative cable metal piece (was corroded)

5.)tune up & oil change

6.)pulled apart power supply to fuel pump and cleaned it off

Here's what we can remember that we've done in the 4 years we've owned it, even though the repairs probably don't have to do with the problem:

1.) new radiator & thermostat

2.) new exhaust manifold

3.) new left front motor mount

4.)tune-ups/oil changes

5.)new shocks

6.)new clutch

7.)new cadallidic (sp') converter & tail pipe

8.)new valve cover

9.) fixed 3 oil leaks

10.) fixed rear universal

11.) new brakes

12.) new pvc valve (because oil was blowing into air filter)

13.) new water pump

We don't know anything about fixing our Jeep, but we're actively learning.  We determined to fix it because we're keeping it long term.

Thank you for your blessed and helpful advice,

Faith and Aaron

Hi Faith,

Wow, that's quite a laundry list!  The problem is likely the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) sensor.  When it fails to start see if it's got spark or fuel.  If it lacks EITHER it's likely the CPS sensor.  If this sensor fails it shuts down ignition and the voltage to the fuel pump.

If you've got fuel but not spark, or spark but not fuel, that isolates the problem to the ignition or the fuel pump.  My bet is on the CPS sensor or the Coil failing.

LEVE

MY 1985 CJ-7 IS A ROAD HUNTER, LOVES TO FOLLOW  TRUCK RUTS ON THE HIGHWAY.  I AM RUNNING 31 10.50 15'S  WITH A SMALL LIFT 2 IN. THE STEERING IS  TIGHT , IT LOVES TO WONDER FROM 1 LANE TO THE OTHER.  IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO TO KEEP IT IN 1 LANE?

CARL 

Hi Carl,

The castor is likely off.  It may need shims.  A 2" is right on the ragged edge for seeing problems.  Try addressing the castor.  This should lesson the bump-steer you're experiencing.

LEVE

I purchased a 98 Cherokee Sport about a month ago, it has 144,000 miles on it and the trans and engine are solid. Dispite the condition of the engine and trans every thing else from the suspension and steering to the fuel pump asembly.  My question is, is it worth fixing those things, and if so what are the limits and capabilities of my Cherokee as far as my 4x4 system is concerned compared to say a new Rubicon or a Liberty and just In general as an overall solid bad ass truck.

Thank you,

Matthew

Matt,

The Cherokee can't compare to the new Rubicon.  It's by far the best out of the box 4X4 capable Jeep that's ever been offered by Jeep.  That's not the same case for the Liberty, though it is a good Jeep.

If you're up to fixing problems one at a time, then the Cherokee is a great vehicle.  It is worth fixing problems as they occur.  Look at the price and payments of a new Jeep (your choice).  Even at half the payment price, that's a heck of a lot of part and upgrades you can do to the Cherokee.

Remember that the problem with the Cherokee is that it's Uni-body and not mounted on a ol' time frame.  That limits what you can and can't do with lifts and adds to expense and upgrade difficulty.  But upgrades are doable. The Cherokee's a very robust Jeep, and that's the key, it's a Jeep!

LEVE

Aloha JeepCreep,

I've learned a lot just spending an hour reading through your archives...what a great resource!  Thank you!

Here's my question...I inherited a 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grand from a friend who recently left Hawaii for a job on the mainland.  The Jeep wasn't running when I got it.  The original owner said that the Jeep started getting hard to start and then would occasionally stall on him, but he could always get it started.  The check engine light would also stay one all the time.  He took it to a dealer and they kept it overnight to test it out in the morning.  The next day they informed him that the Jeep had died during their test drive and had to be towed back to the dealership.  When they hooked it up the diagnostic machine it showed that the ECU had failed and had to be replaced.  He couldn't afford the $700 repair quoted him so he had it towed to his house.  The Jeep has only been sitting maybe 3 weeks total since the dealer had it.

I found a used ECU guaranteed not to be DOA on eBay and got it for $100.  Thinking the problem was solved, I installed the new ECU as per the instructions in my Haynes manual and went to start up my new Jeep.  Same thing as before...Jeep won't start.  The starter kicks in and the Jeep sounds like it's trying to be started without getting enough gas.  Now I'm not sure whether the dealer was lying about the problem being the ECU or the person I bought the used ECU off eBay sold me a bad ECU.  I contacted the seller and he assured me it was pulled from a working Jeep and said it had been test before being sent.

So now I'm wondering if the ECU can be test when it's not in the Jeep.  What I'm wondering is, can I take it to a shop and have it tested or is there anyway I found test it with a voltmeter or something?  This way I can figure out if it's the ECU or whether I need to look elsewhere.  I was thinking maybe an O2 sensor or crankcase sensor could be the problem.  What would your wise words of wisdom be?  I'm really frustrated with this problem since it seemed to be a simple fix.  Thanks for the help and Mahalo Nui Loa from the 50th State!

Take care,

Barb

Hi Barb, 

Sorry for the lateness of this reply, I've been fighting virus' on the computer... you wouldn't have liked an email with a virus!

There is no real good way to test an ECM for the average guy, except to do just what you did... substitute it.

So now you know it's not the problem you've got to drop back to basics to find the problem.  Divide the problem into three areas:

When the Jeep's not running, which of these items don't you have?

Air is kind of a given... it's usually there unless the filter is clogged.  So for now, ignore the air.

That leaves Spark and fuel.

If the engine drops like the ignition has been turned off, the problem is likely spark related.

If the engine coughs and sputters/backfires, the problem is likely fuel related.

If the problem seems electrical (and I think it is), I'd look at the Crankshaft Position Sensor and its wiring harness and connector.  This causes long crank times, intermittent shut down and no-start conditions.  Often the connectors are just corroded and can be cleaned to restore function.

Now you've got a place to start (no pun intended). 

LEVE