Welcome to this month's issue of Jeeper Creeper. 

Being somewhat new many of you I thought an introduction is in order.  I've been associate with Jeeps since my first ride in a ?Seep? in the early 1950's to recently moderating Off-Road.Com's ShortWheeBase Jeep Forum. 

If it's a Jeep, related to a Jeep, started its life on a Jeep platform or licensed by Jeep? I like it.  I have my tastes.  I like some Jeep models better than others.  To me, Jeep is still the model that helped win WWII.  It should not just slip into history and fade away like all old soldiers. 

My current Jeep's a 1983 CJ7.  About the only thing that's still original, or has not been replaced is the front axle.  I'm a firm believer that you are your own best mechanic.  You can do almost any job on a Jeep that you have the inclination to tackle.  Jeeps aren't rocket science.  They are about the simplest and easily maintained vehicle in the automobile market, today.  Maintenance is just a matter of

The more you learn and understand your Jeep the more you free yourself from the mechanic, the transmission shop and the tow truck.  It's a freeing feeling.

Jeeps are easily personalized.  We've all seen Jeep Low-riders and Jeep Monster Trucks, with every variety of modifications known to man.  The diversity of the Jeep world is unlimited.  Around this diversity of thought, form and function has grown up large aftermarket slate of manufactures making Jeep related products.  The upgrades and products are almost endless in scope and usage.  Often these companies start in the garage due to a need that is not met.  It's all for the love of driving a Jeep.

This brings me to my own personal thoughts on upgrading a Jeep.  Though I'm sure yours will differ, I offer this list as points to ponder.

I believe in Function over Form and even more importantly safety is the foremost concern.  The upgrade should be:

With that said, it's on to some of this months Ask the Jeep Creep questions.

I Have a Jeep Cherokee diesel 1986 and I'm having problem with the fuel delivery system, do you know where I might be able to get information such as diagrams showing how all this works and how it comes apart and gets put back together.
Adrien

Adrien, your Cherokee diesel is a fine vehicle and your desire to maintain and understand it is laudable.  A good overview is the Amc Jeep: Cherokee, Comanche, Wagoneer, Wrangler: 1984-1987 Gas and Diesel Shop Manual, by Kalton Lahue.  The book is not cheap but it has the information you want.  It will serve you well for the life of the Cherokee.   Keep an eye on Ebay.  You may be lucky enough to find one less expensively.

I own a 98 Jeep Cherokee and recently noticed the fan runs for several minutes after I turn the engine off. Is this normal or should I be concerned? I think this is to cool the engine but I don't recall it running like this before.

Tom, you're right!  The electronic circuits will turn the fan on and off independent of the ignition.   If the engine is turned off and it's hot, above the temperature limiter, the fan comes.  The fan stays on until the engine cools down to below the threshold limit.  It's not uncommon for an owner to be leaning over the engine and have the fan come on.  Of course that scares the devil out of the owner and they can't get out from under the hood fast enough.  If the engine is hot when you're working under the hood be prepared for it to come on.

I'm very new to the world of Jeeps. I have been a car driver for a long time and was ready to sit higher and see what's going on in the world. I bought a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Very clean, older owners.....well.....I have a problem with the oil sending unit, which I guess is pretty common. Now I have a wonderful clunk when I turn left. It sounds like I'm driving over a manhole cover. I have just had it 2 weeks and I know it's older but what's next? The clunk...a u-joint issue? I really want to like this...help me!

Linda

Linda, for some reason all models of Jeeps are notorious for bad oil senders.  Simply replacing the sender with a new one should take care of the problem.  The ?Clunking? sound you describe is a little harder to define.  It could be the front axle U-joint.  The clue is that the noise only happens when you make a turn.  But it also could be a bad ball joint.  Ball joints make sharp metallic noise when going over a bump or a pothole.  If the joint is devoid of grease it can make noise during a turn.

I would approach this by lifting the front tires off the ground and slowly rotating them, comparing them left side to right side.  If you feel a bind as the tire is rotated you've likely found a bad wheel bearing or a bad U-joint.  If you don't feel even a slight bind then the problem is most likely in the ball joints.

I recently bought a 1989 Jeep Wrangler, 5 speed 6-cyl, 4 wheel drive. I am trying to get it road worthy, but one of the problems I have is that when I step on the brakes, the headlights dim, and the blinkers only blink about6 or 7 times per minute- any suggestions?

thanks,

Ben Galloway

Ben, this problem is very common and strongly misunderstood.  Many batteries and alternators have been replaced because anything else is the above the scope of the owners electronic knowledge.  Sit down and think what's happening.  You only see the problem when you slow and brake.  That isolates the problem to the brake system.  There are two parts to the system.  One is mechanical and one is electronic.  If the engine is not properly tuned and running at idle the engine RPM will descend below about 700 RPM when braking and cause a problem similar to what you are experiencing.  The reason is the alternator is not turning fast enough to provide the power needed.

The second problem can be electrical grounds.  Often an owner thinks ? a ground is a ground is a ground.  That is incorrect.  The Jeep usually has three grounds:

?        Battery to Engine block

?        Engine block to Frame

?        Engine block (or frame) to body

If any of these grounds are missing or compromised by rust then the power requirement goes up.  As this happens, the alternator/battery cannot keep up with demand increased by ground resistance.  Flashers slow down, and lights dim in response to such a bad ground.

Try doing the following:

I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 6-cylinder.  Spark plug wire had a slice in the cap and started arcing.  The check engine light came on.  I replaced the bad wire but the light remains on.  Is there any way that I can reset it or do I have to take it to the dealer to be reset?  Thanks for any info. You can give me!  This is a great site!

John, thank you for the kind words.  Do you have a Scan Tool?  If not I'd advise buying one.  These tools are available for about $150 and up at your local auto parts stores.  The prices fall as new scan tools come into the marketplace.  For the price of a dealer charges to throw your Jeep on a diagnostic scope a couple of times, you can buy that Scan tool.  A Scan Tool is used to recover ECM codes triggered by problems.  Check with your local auto parts stores.  Some of them will scan the computer for free.  You buy the sensor indicated by the fault code and everyone's happy! 

I'd suspect that the energy leak in the plug wire triggered a cylinder misfire code.  Though you did fix the initial problem, the engine may be experiencing other problems due to the misfire.  This would be dependant upon how long the Jeep was driven with the misfire.  As example, when misfiring the cylinder exhausts raw fuel into the catalytic converter system.  The catalytic converter doesn't take kindly to raw gas.  A rich engine condition will plug a catalytic converter very quickly.  This plugged converter causes problems with the output Oxygen sensor.  Then the emissions diagnostics in the ECM throws another code.  This keeps the Check Engine light on.  If you do not recover the code then you work blind and throw parts at the problem until it is fixed.  You'll find the purchase of a Scan Tool would be far less expensive to recover the code and besides, their fun to play with!    If you're a geek, like me, you can download freeware OBDII compliant software.  Then buy cables and install the software on you Handheld or Laptop computer and scan away!  In any case, a Scan Tool will point you in the right direction to quickly repair the Jeep and get the check engine light to be turned off.

Hi mr. Creep.  l have a question involving 2003 Jeep Liberty tire pressure maybe you can help me with-here goes.... On the GOODYEAR tire max pressure is rated @ 44 psi while the sticker inside the glove box recommends tire pressure @ 33 psi.

Is 33 psi the correct pressure for this vehicle and why so much lower than max pressure?
The tires tend to squeal when going around even slight turns when set to recommended psi.  Any info you have will be appreciated and valued.   thanks a bunch- Dan

MAX tire pressure is just that.  The tire rating is load dependent and directly proportional to the gross weight of the vehicle and load.  Let's say you go to your local home supply center and load the Jeep with seventy concrete paving blocks.  Then you look at the tire sidewalls.  The sidewalls are splayed out and the springs sag under the weight.  If you pump the tires up you'd have to increase PSI in the tires to cure the splay.  If you pump up the pressure above 44 PSI then the tire is in danger of rupture.  To continue to raise PSI increases risk.  The tire rating has been exceeded.  So what to do?  Remove some weight.

But the squeal is another matter.   If you air up the tires to MAX PSI you will find the Jeep much easier to steer.  The reason is the footprint of the tire has decreased.  There is less tread on the ground.   This is not a good idea.  The front end will feel as if it's floating and in effect it is.  This can cause the Jeep tires to break loose from the pavement very easily and handling problems ensue.

How long has it been since the Jeep's had a front-end alignment?  A slow speed squeal is an indicator of front tires being out of alignment.  Excessive tire wear will result if the problem is not corrected quickly.  Have it checked out!

Hi, I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee.  The Brake fluid was low , so I filled and discovered still no brakes. The Master Cylinder area gives a air mush sound. I was told to bleed the brakes.

I could not find the brake nib to back off to bleed manually. How do I bleed the brakes? Or, do I have to take it to the dealer for service?

Thanks, Tom

Brakes are a safety issue, a really BIG safety issue.  There is NO room for error doing this job.  The first thing I would be concerned with is not fixing the brakes.  The first thing I worry about is why the brake fluid was low.  If you don't know the cause of the problem bleeding the brakes is a band-aid that only masks the original problem.   If you're lucky you'll be only replacing the fluid again in short time.  If you're not lucky you'll be replacing the Jeep when the brakes fail due to leaked fluid.

I would put the Jeep on a Jack and start pulling off wheels, one by one.  You want to see the brake assembly.  Then look for weeping around the calipers.  Weeping will show up as a darkened area.  It's going to attract and keep dust near it.  It may be quite dirty.  If you see weeping, it is a sure sign of a part failure in that wheel assembly.  You must fix this or you endanger yourself and others on the highway.

After you have found the cause of the fluid loss you do need to bleed the brakes.  Bleeding brakes on any vehicle can be difficult if you've never done the job before.  I recommend a small tool called a hand vacuum pump with a vacuum gauge attached.  When you do bleed your brakes, do the job in the following order:

Steps to be taken on each of the above steps (without a vacuum pump):

1.  Open the bleeder screw and attach a clear line from the bleeder screw into a jar.   You want to see what's coming out!
2.  Top off the master cylinder.
3.  Have a buddy slowly depress the brake pedal.
4.  When the pedal reaches the floor close the bleeder screw.
5.  Release the pedal.
6.  Reopen the bleeder screw.
7.  Reapply pressure to the brake pedal.
8.  Make sure the Master Cylinder is ALWAYS full of fluid.  You don't want the lines to suck air when bleeding the Master Cylinder.

Continue steps 1-8 until you see a constant flow of fluid with no air coming out of the bleeder screw.

When the Passenger Side Rear wheel line has been bled, do each of the other lines in turn. When no air is trapped in the lines you're done and the brakes should NOT be spongy, but firm when the pedal is depressed.  

If you have anti-lock brakes the above procedure may, or may not work and all bets are off.

I am just about at my wits end...

I have a 1988 Jeep Wrangler 4.2L 5-speed.
The engine was replaced may 2001.
Everything was fine until June 2002 very hot dry summer (near 100 most every day)
I do not think it is the engine.
Primary symptoms are hard starting and cutting out while I am driving.  Sometimes after cutting out, it starts right
away, but usually not.

I've been told (by several shops),
1) maybe the ecu;
2) maybe the carb;
3) maybe the vacuum system
4) maybe the fuel pump
since last July (2002)
I have replaced, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, carb with no real difference.
It started and ran great all winter long (and it was a cold winter this past year).  Once the temps got above 70, the problems returned.

I have found no pattern to the cutting off..  Sometimes it happens immediately; sometimes it runs great (very rarely).  But usually dies 3-5 times on my 4 mile drive to work and again in the evening on the drive home.

Any suggestions?
--------------------------------------------
Michael

Yes.  Thank you for the great description of the problem.  You've got a little more detective work to do on this Jeep.  You've got to find out what is missing when it dies.

Once you find out which of the three is missing you've narrowed down the problem to ignition, fuel system or aspiration.  A couple of clues are:

Another clue you've mentioned is the problem seems heat related.  This leads me to think the problem is electrical.  If an electric sensor is marginal, then when the ambient under hood temperature increases the part fails.  You turn off the engine and the part ?heals? itself as it cools and the cycle repeats.  It can be frustrating.

Look into the TBI to see if you've got fuel squirting.  If you have no fuel squirting, and no spark check the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor.  It is responsible for starting the interaction of the whole system and can shut down the system right quickly.  This part is also subject to heat failure. 

If you don't have an OEM Service manual or a aftermarket (Chilton or Haynes) manual on the engine, it is time to buy one.

I need help on distributor installation for ?77 304.  I'm not sure of rotor placement after TDC.  All my jeep will do is turn over and back fire through the exhaust. Thanks for any help you might have.

Well, you do have a problem.  Make sure the distributor has not been installed 180 degrees out.  Here's how I time an engine without a timing light:

The engine's now statically timed. If there's still a timing problem it is in the distributor advance mechanics or the timing Chain/Belt and gears.

Hi I have a 1976 cj5 and I put on a 4inch lift and applied the rear shims and the skid plate drop.  I want to know if there is anything else I can do to eliminate the vibrations and extreme pitch so that I wont brake my u-joints and I also don't want to have to lower the engine.  Do you have any ideas?

Thanks very much.

Seth

Yes.  You've got a very large lift and a very short drive shaft.   There is not much length and this makes getting the correct drive shaft angle difficult.  Remember the drive shaft angles should be about one degree of true. 

One degree out of true helps needle bearings rotate and lube the bearings and caps.  If the angle is more than three degrees the u-joints will bind and fail as they bind and twist.  The larger the angle, the faster the u-joint fails. 

Each u-joint must cancel each other.  This means that if the angle at the transfer case is measured at 11 degrees, the u-joint angle at the axle must be ?10 degrees.  So to find the correct angle on your Jeep I'd try the following:

Now chances are that the driveline is too short to make this angle.  If it is the best choice is to have a local driveline shop construct and balance a new driveline with a double cardan joint in stalled.  The cardan joint adds another joint to the driveline, but lets a shorter driveline work in the project.

May I suggest reading:

Tom Wood's Driveline 101 at http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html . 

It's all you wanted to know about driveline angle phasing but were afraid to ask.

Now, a word about axle shims.  Shims a point of failure on the trail.  The axle shims can move and become dislodged.  This is not fun on the trail.  May I suggest you grind off the old perches and weld the new ones in their place to reflect the proper angle?  Once the new perches are welded to the axle tube, there is no chance of the shims being dislodged.  You have now eliminated a point of failure.  A part is normally going to fail at the point of time it is under most stress.  That point of maximum stress is usually on the trail.  The more you can harden your Jeep the more you'll be driving it back to the trail head, and not relying on others for a tow.

Dear Jeep Creep,

I am having problems with the zippers in my jeep wrangler.  They keep getting stuck.  And now when they zip it is not closing. It is not closing at all.

PLEASE HELP ITS GETTING COLD SOON!

Thanks,

Lisa

Lisa, remember how a zipper works.  It is a series of teeth that are affixed to a flexible material.  As the zipper pull is moved, teeth are forced to interlock with one another.  If the teeth don't interlock you have a problem.  The teeth need to be able to interact with each other smoothly.  Friction is not your friend.  So, you have to determine just what the problem here is, the teeth, the pull or the flexible material the teeth are affixed to.

If the pull moves easily in some parts of the zipper then you are half way home.  Slowly move the pull to an area where the zipper is having problems.  Look at the teeth on the zipper.  If they are not lined up equal distance from each other the zipper will not work.  If this is the problem, the zipper is damaged and you have only two choices.  You can choose to live with the problem or you can replace the zipper.  If you choose to replace the zipper an inexpensive fix is to go to a local marine boat top repair shop in your area.  They are experts on awful zippers from working on gunk-encrusted boat top zippers.

If the teeth do line up correctly, then simply applying a lubricant to the zipper will help.  Some of the things that would work well are:  Saddle Soap, light machine oil and softened bar soap.  I'm sure you get the idea.  By doing this you keep the teeth lubricated as well as keeping the material the teeth are affixed to soft and pliable.  That all adds up to a good working zipper even in extreme conditions. 

Put that Soft Top on a maintenance schedule.  Examine it carefully about every five or six months for holes, discoloration, mold, mildew, rips, tares and a working zipper.  Do a through cleaning of the top, inside and out twice a year.  This is a case of a stitch in time saves nine!

Hey Jeep Creep

I am looking to install a 3inch lift on my 2003 Wrangler X; with 33X10.50 tires.  The lift kit I am considering includes AT shock absorbers with boots and four replacement coil springs. Springs feature factory spring rates and ride characteristics are pre set and stressed to prevent settling. Kits include extended quick disconnect anti-sway bar links for the front and extended anti-sway bar links for the rear. Kits include a transfer case
lowering kit to reduce driveline angles; rear track bar relocation bracket and extended polyurethane bump stops. Is this all I will need for the suspension itself or do I need things like, brake line extensions and so on.

Thanks Alot
Matt Grice

Matt, a lift kit is very nice, but you NEVER know exactly what you need until you're well into the project.  Most kits include basics to get the Jeep in the air.

Ask yourself a few questions about the kit and its components. 

But you're correct you'll, likely need longer brake lines to accept the new flex.  Remember when you do a lift you put greater stress on all steering and front-end components.  Each added stress has to be accommodated.  Do a little more research on lifts, and lift kits.  There's no one answer that fits all.   Look at the individual parts of each kit, and see if the kits add up to the sum of its parts.

JeepCreep....you may be the guy I've been looking for. I have searched high and low and have ended up no where. I work on cars, mostly Chevy's and Ford's. I have a very close friend that owns a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2WD 4D. His instrument panel's odometer is digital. I know that this subject is tricky especially if you try to either reset or set back miles on a vehicle. I am not asking for that reason. What I am asking is, I know Jeeps keep a memory of the actual miles. Is there a way to either replace just the memory chip or whatever it is that stores the original mileage to a lower mileage, or if you replace the entire cluster with a panel that displays lower miles, will a Jeep read the lower miles or the stored miles? Like I said I have searched high and low and have turned up nothing. And again, this is just a question. Thanks.

Gary

Gary, you're correct the ECM does store the odometer reading.  If you're serious about this you may want to contact the good people at Jeep-Prog at: http://www.spidoshop.com/jeep.html they have a tool that should do what you want. . 

Hey jeep creep,

    I have an 87' YJ to replace my 89' XJ as my off roading vehicle.  Since my XJ is in the water alot, the YJ will be too.  I am curious as to whether I can put a snorkel on the YJ, which is carburated.  If not is their any other solution to preventing possible hydro lock?

Chip, you've got to keep your powder dry!  There is no solution to preventing hydro lock in the cylinders except to keep the water out.  There was a Jeeper about 4 years ago who was working on a spark plug that would evacuate the water incase of ingestion.  I haven't heard a thing about that idea.  I suspect it never came to fruition.  There are many Jeepers who make their own snorkels out of PVC pipe.  It's cheap, looks good when done and works.  Don't forget to extend axle and transfer case breathers. 

Other advice I can think of is:

?         If the YJ has an automatic transmission, drop the transmission and relocate the vent.  If you don't you'll be replacing the transmission after the first water crossing.

?         Do more of research on waterproofing the ignition.  Learn about judicious use of RTV and dielectric spark plug grease.  That's a common point of failure for a Jeep running in water.

?        You may also want to look at an electric engine fan to replacement the mechanical engine fan.  Then you can switch it off during water crossings.  This prevents fan blades from deformation and destroying the radiator.