Part III

Shovel, ya know that metal pointy thing with a wooden handle. A shovel is an invaluable tool when you are stuck. It can move snow, mud, sand, and rocks, be used as a pry bar in a pinch, dig a fire pit, a poop hole, and fight a fire. A decent round pointed shovel costs about $20 and yet I am always amazed that I run into people in the backcountry that don't have one. An ax should also be a part of your basic four-wheeling accessories. An ax can be used to clear a trail, chop brush or wood for traction, provide campfire fuel and the blunt end used as a hammer for things like tent stakes.

A specific shovel / multipurpose tool that has gained a following with the four-wheeling crowd is the Max by Forrest Tool Company. The Max has been around for years, used by professional foresters and fire fighters. These tools are not a novelty item, but are genuine high quality working tools. The Max is a Hudson Bay style ax that has an attachment point for converting the ax into a shovel, pick, mattock, rake and hoe. All attachments store neatly and compactly in a small carrying case. One Max takes the place of at least four separate tools. On a recent winter outing our trail group had crossed a snowy side slope during mid morning. Upon our return in late afternoon we found that the side slope had turned icy. The first Jeep to cross, slide partially off the trial. We scratched at the frozen ground furiously with our shovels trying to find dirt for traction as we watched the sun quickly going down. The thought of crossing the icy side slope in the dark wasn't pleasant but our shovels weren't up to the task of efficiently chopping through the icy snow very quickly. A mattock pick would have made short work of the task. We slowly and nervously crossed the side slope after dark. Monday morning I was on the phone with The Forrest Tool Company and a few days later a Max Multi Purpose Tool arrived.

Tire chains are like shovels, an invaluable tool for adding traction in mud and snow yet I run into people every year stuck in the snow or mud without them. Chains are more expensive than shovels and not as universal, the same shovel can fit any vehicle but, chains don't. When buying chains don't shop on price. Buy the best chains you can find. The cheap ones are best used as an emergency tool to get you 30 feet back up onto the blacktop after you've slid into the ditch. Cheap light duty chains can break or wear out in a matter of hours from heavy-duty use. A broken chain link from light duty chains, excessive speed or excessive tire spinning can do body damage and rip off brake lines in just one revolution. Speeds should be kept under 30 mph. Be judicious with throttle, speed and spinning of the tires. I have a set of home built heavy duty chains that have seen years of use. I have had to replace a few links on occasion.

Chains can be used on all types of tires including radials. Tire chains should be kept snug tight on properly aired tires. Do not air down when using chains as excessive side-wall flex around the chain may damage the tire. The most common tire chain tightners are like large rubber bands with hooks that fasten to the chain side link. Common rubber bunges work as well. Make sure that you fit the chains onto the tire and check for proper fender, shock, spring, etc. clearances. Axle deep in goo and 20 miles from pavement is a poor time to discover the chains won't fit or they won't clear something. Do this after you purchase the chains in the comfort of your driveway before storing the chains in the vehicle. I leave my chains in the vehicle year around. I know guys who like to remove them after getting home from a trip and 9 out 10 times they forget to take them on the next outing. Several styles of tire chains are available. The most common is the ladder style with a twist link or V-bar cleat for added traction.

Rud chain makes a very interesting design called "Grip 4 x 4" that uses a diamond pattern chain that crosses the center of the tire much like a tractor or heavy equipment style tire chain. This diamond pattern provides better traction and keeps the chain from bunching up. The "Grip 4 x 4" uses a heavy cable instead of the standard link chain for the sides. The design of the cable and attaching mechanism allows the chains to be installed quickly and easily without moving the vehicle or crawling underneath. Rud chain was kind enough to send a set to Off-Road.Com for evaluation. The chains arrived and with a few inches of fresh snow we were eager to hit the trail. I installed both chains while squatting beside the tire, without moving the vehicle, and without crawling underneath, before Victor, my trail partner had finished one tire with conventional chains while laying on his back underneath a goo dripping Cherokee. These chains are slick! They provided great traction and showed no signs of wear or fatigue after about four hours of deliberate abuse. The convenience of the easy on/off design makes this an ideal chain for 4x4 use as it is wise to only use the chains when truly needed to keep wear at a minimum.

Twenty years ago I used a logging chain as did most folks for towing a vehicle out of the mud or snow. The problem with chain or cable is that the metal doesn't have much give. Even the gentlest tug on a chain produces an abrupt jerk that is inefficient and can break equipment. Nylon tow ropes/straps work by storing the energy caused by stretching the material to the point that it then releases the energy once it stops stretching, much like a rubber band. The effect allows the nylon to absorb shock and multiply energy making it a very smooth and efficient way of extracting a stuck vehicle or a smooth, jolt free tow.

I own both tow ropes and tow straps. Both seem to work equally well but I have found that tow straps are more compact and easier to store. I like a strap with looped ends about 20' long. For four-wheeling a rating of about 20,000 lbs. working load should be considered a minimum. Ratings below 20,000 lbs. are best suited for flat towing, as they are not up to snuff for heavy work when extracting a stuck vehicle.

A safe and suitable tow point is a must. Never attach to steering components or flimsy bumpers. Any vehicle that is intended to see off highway use must be equipped with sturdy tow points both front and rear. The receiver style tow shackle is great for those having a receiver hitch on the rear and/or the front. Tow hooks work well also but must be mounted correctly. When retrieving a stuck vehicle, try with little to no slack and a very gentle throttle. If more is needed, increase the slack to a few feet and a slight increase in throttle. Spinning tires and excessive speed is generally to be avoided, let the energy in the nylon do the work. Safety is a must. Never stand in line with the strap and bystanders should be at least 30 feet to the side. Never use a weak, damaged or frayed strap. The energy in nylon straps/ropes that break have been known to smash windshields and decapitate people. Yuck! Place at least one heavy coat, blanket or sleeping bag over the rope, in the event that the rope/strap breaks the coat, blanket or sleeping bag will absorb some of the energy and lessen the effects.

High lift jacks are a four-wheeling icon and for good reason. These sturdy well made tools have gotten many four-wheelers out of a tight spot, pun intended. High lift jacks can be used to lift a tire for changing, lift a vehicle that has been high centered, and used as a hand winch. I have seen them used to straighten a bent steering rod, used as a spreader to lift a smashed roof form a roll over and stretch and mend a broken barbed wire fence after a 4 x 4 slid through and broke it.

The Hi-Lift Jack Company makes two styles of jacks and several lengths. The casting and steel jack is slightly stronger than the all steel jack. I own both and have not a problem with either one. The jacks are made in 36", 42", 48" and 60" lengths. The 48 inch is the most common for four-wheelers. The shorter 36" and 42" is best suited for very low sitting vehicles like a stock Samurai and the longer 60" for vehicles with a higher ride height. When choosing a high lift remember that the jack lifts from the bumper and must have enough height to take the compression out of the suspension and then lift the tire a minimum of 6" and preferably 12" or more off the ground.

When using a high lift jack always have the handle in the full upright home position before switching between up/down positions. More than one jack operator has gotten smacked in the jaw when the handle flies up under pressure from the weight of the vehicle. I was hit in the arm from a flying handle when the operator switched positions with the handle in the down position. The jack handle came out of the socket, flew over the top of the truck, and hit me as I was standing at the back of the vehicle. Always store the jack with the switching mechanism in the up position to prevent damage to the switch. Make sure the jack bumper rest sits squarely and firmly under the bumper or it could slide off the bumper. Hi-Lift does make a bumper hook for attaching to bumpers that don't have a flat base. I have welded short pieces of half inch round steel in parallel about 2" apart under my bumpers to keep the jack from sliding. Carry an eight-inch square or larger piece of three-quarter inch plywood to use as a base to keep the jack from sinking while lifting in sand, snow or mud.

The jack can also be used as a winch by laying the jack horizontally and attaching a chain to the eye at the top of the jack and another chain to the footrest. While it is slow and you only get about four feet pull before you have to reset, it will rescue a stuck vehicle. Care must be taken that the chain does not slip off the footrest. The eye at the top can also be rotated perpendicular to change the jack into a giant C-clamp.

My high lift jacks are permanently mounted in each vehicle. The Cherokee's is attached to the cargo roof rack, the CJ7's is mounted on the rear tire carrier and the Suburban's is stored under the rear seat. The jack won't do any good when forgotten in the garage.

Other basic trail tools that all off-roaders should have:

• Flash light & extra batteries
• Hand tools & repair manual
• Mechanics wire (bailing wire)
• Electrical & duck tape
• Shop rags
• Penetrating oil
• Leather gloves

• Fire extinguisher
• Map & compass
• First aid kit
• Food & water
• Survival kit (matches, candle, space blanket, mirror, etc.)