pictures for details. Newer D60 front uses pins
to mount caliper. My 95 F250 has this type mount and looks like it
has more clearance with a std alum 16" factory wheel vs another
similar rim I currently have on my green bronc which has the same
brake setup as the older D60 fronts (D44 front 8 lug). Anyway, it
looks like you'd need a backspacing in the area of 2.75" (with some
grinding) and that would take a heck of a steering pump/box to drag
a tire through that huge arc on the rocks/street. Only other option
is use Ch*bbie knuckles/caliper/caliper bracket. It can then be
done with 3" backspacing according to some guys on pirate4X4
message board. Back to the
Index.
11.3). Ring and pinions will
also interchange with other reverse-rotation Dana 44's. The
differentials, however, are different and will not
interchange.
3.2 What kinds lift kits are available for my Bronco?
3.2.1 Rear suspension
All full-size Broncos came with leaf spring rear suspensions. Lift
options for rear leaf suspensions are: blocks, add-a-leafs, or new
springs. Blocks are the cheapest option, but may cause axle wrap
problems. Add-a-leafs create lift by adding more springs to the
spring pack. They help reduce axle wrap problems and can increase
load carrying capacity, but they may damage the exising spring pack
if the curvature of the add-a-leaf is different than the main pack.
New springs will produce the best ride and suspension travel, but
they are also the most expensive.
3.2.2 78-79 Front Suspension
78-79 Broncos used a front suspension with a straight axle and coil
springs. Lifts for the front of these Broncos will include new coil
springs, a track bar drop bracket or adjustable track bar, and
radius arm drop brackets or degreed C-bushings.
3.2.3 80-96 Front Suspension
Ford used the Twin Traction Beam front suspension for these years.
There are 3 basic methods used to lift TTB front suspensions 4" or
more: drop brackets all around, drop brackets for the axle pivot
and extended radius arms with stock radius arm brackets, and
modified TTB housing with extended radius arms and stock axle pivot
and radius arm brackets. 2" lifts are also available for TTB front
ends. These lifts can be accomplished two ways. The first is with
longer springs or spring spacers and new alignment bushings. The
second uses drop brackets similar to 4" lifts.
3.3 Should I get extended radius arms for my TTB Bronco
lift?
Extended length radius arms are options for many lift kits for 1980
to 1996 Broncos. They typically double the cost of the lift kit.
The advantage of extended radius arms is more downward wheel
travel. Upward wheel travel is usually limited by either the bump
stops or tire-to-sheetmetal interference. Downward travel on TTB
suspensions is limited by binding in the radius arm bushings.
Longer radius arms allow the suspension to droop farther before
binding occurs. Another advantage can be increased strength. Drop
brackets place more leverage on the frame, and can cause breakage.
Since extended radius arms use the stock drop brackets, the are
less stressful to the frame. However, if the radius arms are poorly
built, they may end up being a strength liability. The stock
suspension travel will be adequate for most Bronco owners. Broncos
with stock radius arms and a drop bracket lift kit can score over
700 RTI on a 20 degree ramp (don't ask me where I heard this, I
can't find the reference now). This is a respectable score. If your
Bronco is used off-road extensively on hard, uneven surfaces like
rocks or rutted trails, you will benefit the most from the
additional wheel travel provided by extended radius arms. Broncos
used mostly on the street or in mud will gain little advantage
compared to the cost of longer radius arms.
3.4 Why can't I find a lift for my 1980 Bronco?
1980 was a transition year, and Ford experimented with a lighter
frame. Many manufacturers don't list a lift kit for 1980 Broncos
because of differences in the frames throughout the 1980 model
year. Lifts for newer Broncos will fit, but may require some
modifications.
3.5 How can I remove the slop from my steering?
Older vehicles tend to develop slop in their steering
mechanisms. The TTB front suspension is notorious for eating
tie-rod ends. The first step in fixing the slop is to
determine where the slop is occurring. Have somebody move the
steering wheel back and forth while you watch the steering
linkage. Start with the shaft from the steering wheel to the
steering box. Watch for slop in the rag joint. Next
check for slop in the steering box itself. The pitman arm
should track the movement of the input shaft. Next watch the
tie rod ends. There should be no slop at all in these
parts. On older Broncos, more than one problem is
likely. If there was slop in the rag joint, it should be
replaced. Slop in the steering box can often be fixed by
adjusting the sector shaft backlash adjustment screw. This is
a screw sticking out of the top of the steering box with a locking
nut on it. Refer to a repair manual for the adjustment
procedure. This adjustment often produces dramatic results.
Slop in the tie rod ends can only be fixed by replacing them.
It's a good idea to purchase high quality, lifetime guaranteed
steering parts, first because they are a safety item, and second
because you will probably replace them again if you plan to keep
your Bronco for more than a few years. Another common problem is
worn suspension bushings, especially radius arm bushings. Replacing
these bushings with high quality rubber or polyurethane parts may
help reduce the slop in your steering.
3.6 Can I do anything about the excessive tire wear on my '80
and newer Bronco?
The TTB suspension is widely thought to be inherently bad for tire
wear. While this may be true to a degree, many tire wear
problems are simply due to worn steering components. If you
are having tire wear problems, perform the checks listed above in
section 3.5. If your tie-rods are worn, you will need to
replace them and get an alignment. Don't rely on the
alignment shop to tell you if your steering components need to be
replaced, unless you are confident that the shop knows what they
are doing. Some shops will simply do the alignment, collect
their $50 and send you on your way. The alignment is
meaningless if your tie rods are worn, and you will continue to
have tire wear problems. Also, frequent tire rotations will
help extend the life of your tires. Back to the Index.
7.3 Is there anything I can do about the cracks near my rain
gutters on the upper rear part of the cab?
Ford issued Technical Service Bulletin 951409A on this topic, dated
7/17/95. There is a repair kit that can solve this problem, part
number F5TZ-9850223-A. This problem is reported to be eligible for
warranty repair on 92-95 Broncos. Refer to your local Ford
parts/service department for up to date info. (Thanks to list
member David Eyre)
7.4 Did I really see a 4-door Bronco, or should I have my
exhaust system checked for leaks?
You probably did see a 4-door Bronco, but it's not a bad idea to
check your exhaust system anyway. :-) A company named Centurion
manufactured a conversion vehicle which was a crew cab pickup cab
grafted to a Bronco back end to create the equivalent of a Ford
"Suburban". While not technically a Bronco, the Bronco community
has adopted the Centurian as one of its own. The vehicle came in
half ton and one ton configurations. The C-150 is built on an F-150
SuperCab chassis and the C-350 is built on a stretched F-350
regular cab chassis. Centurion Vehicles
P.O. Box 715
White Pigeon, MI 49099
(616) 483-9659 Back to the Index.
Big Bronco page. It's a good idea to do the
rear axle at the same time and upgrade the master cylinder to match
your new brakes.
10.3 Can I put 8 lug axles on the back of my Bronco?
While it is possible to upgrade to 8 lugs through the use of custom
axle shafts on your 8.8" or 9" axle, it is probable that a Dana 60
or Ford 10.25" axle from an F-250 or F-350 will bolt up with few
modifications. You will definitely need a custom driveshaft to mate
to the larger pinion yoke on the new axle, and the braking system
should be upgraded to match the new larger drums. Otherwise this
should be a farily simple swap.
10.4 What would be the axle of choice for durabiltiy and cost
on a Dana 60, 14 bolt, or some other choice?
Not D60. Hard to find them stock with steep gears, setup/lockers
cost the same/more and axle shafts are realy not much better off
over 8.8/9". I'm using one because I had all the stuff for it and I
have 4 of them, so I'm not too worried about axle shaft breakage
(won't cost anything and trail fix is very easy with detroit rear).
If you want durability, get 10.25 or 14 bolt. Neither will probably
ever break. I give the edge of overall durability to 14 bolt, but
it's mostly hearsay (and seeing what the big mud guys run) as I've
only seen one 10.25 break a major part and it was under the most
extreme conditions. For me, welding and fabrication was free and
the price difference between 14 bolt and 10.25 was 400$ (plus 200$
on locker). If you can find a 10.25 with 4.56's already (like I
found 2, 14 bolts) then all you need is to drop in locker (no gear
setup needed) and stuff rear in. This IMO, is the easiest way to
get a real stout rear. All depends on costs of different axles in
your area. In the future, if they start getting more 10.25's at my
"get rears for 75$, U-pull it place", I will prob run one in my
trail bronc. ..I am thinking 14 bolt is probably cheapest up
front and the locker is much cheaper plus I could install it
myself. You can install a locker in 10.25 yourself also, just
need a new set of carrier bearings and re-use whatever shis were
already in there. ..The dana 60 would be more of a bolt in, but
more $$ and less strength.....am I correct on this? Yes!!
Also, you will need U-bolts and backing plates from 10.25 donor
truck for either that diff or 14 bolt since tube is 3.5 dia vs
8.8/9"/D60 which is 3".
10.5 What is the difference in axle shaft strengths of common
Bronco differentials (or common swaps)?
Going from 19 spline (1.121 in. dia.) to 30 Spline (1.255 in. dia.)
gives you 40% more strength. Going from 30 spline to 35 spline
(1.500 in. dia.) gives you 71% more strength. The whopper is going
from 19 spline to 35 spline gives you 240% more strength. These
figures assume like material strengths.
10.6 How can I tell what gear ratio I have and/or if it is an
open or posi differential?
First to check for diff status. Rotate one drum, the other drum
will spin opposite direction if open and the same direction if
posi. Now Rotate drum one revolution. Yoke will rotate half the
number of times of gear ratio if open diff or the exact number of
ratio if posi. Diff tags can not be trusted, they may have been
swapped. Back to the Index.
pre-filter. I had been
using an Edelbrock air filter cover, over an Edelbrock 1406
carburetor. The diameter of the air filter it takes is 13¾
inches outside, 11¾ inches inside. K&N makes a foam
pre-filter, model 25-3750. It measures 14x4 inches. It is to be
treated with oil, just like the K&N air filters. Thus it has to
be used with a K&N air filter. The air filter which fits the
need is model E-1690. It is four inches tall and has the same
diameter dimensions of the Edelbrock cover. This pre filter can be
removed, washed, re-oiled, and put back on several times before the
air filter has to be cleaned. This adds an inch to the height of
the original air filter which came with the filter cover.
12.3 How to tell a 351-M from a 351 Windsor.
On 351 Windsors and other small block Ford engines
(221/260/289/302), the upper radiator hose attaches to a thermostat
housing on the front of the intake manifold. On 335 series engines
(Cleveland and M-block) the upper radiator hose attaches to a
thermostat housing on the top of the block, just in front of the
intake manifold. If you can see all the valve cover bolts, small
blocks have a total of six bolts while 335 series engines have
eight bolts. If you look along the top flange of the valve cover
(toward the intake manifold), small blocks have one bolt in the
middle, 335 series engines have two bolts between the ends.
Back to the Index.
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