DON'T ASK! June 20065

Nov. 01, 2005 By Rick Sieman
DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: BREAK IN FIASCO

Dear Mr. Know it all,
Thank you very much for the very informative article on how to cold seize your new motor. This article just shows how much bad info is on the net. There are two major clues not to follow these break in instructions.

In the second sentence the author said he scoured the web. That means he took the info that fit his logic.

The name of the guy detailing the procedure is Freez, which is not only spelled wrong but is also what your new motor will do if you follow these instruction.

However this info is not entirely false. YZ490 owners should follow it word for word.
Brad Johnson

Thanks for the informative email, Brad. Your logic about the YZ 490 is dead nuts on. Funny stuff.

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SUBJECT: 1987 HONDA CR250

I own a 1987 Honda CR250. It had been sitting in my brother in law's garage for 2 years when I convinced him to give it me. After replacing the top end gaskets, rings, water pump shaft, cleaning the carburetor, putting carburetor settings back to factory specs, and adding fresh gas/oil mixture I got to run. However, it does not idle when the engine warms up and the choke is off. When it's cold and the choke is on it idles fine. I've tried adjusting the air screw and even went to a smaller main jet (168 suggested by my Clymer manual). The spark plug is a little wet around the rim, but the electrode is a dry, tanish grey.

Also, I'm new to 2-stroke dirt bikes and was wondering if it's normal to have seepage where the expansion chamber connects to the exhaust manifold. The current expansion chamber is pretty beat up and needs to be replaced but even with a new one, is this to be expected? It's making an oily mess down the front of the engine.

Thank you,
Rocky Hernandez

The 87 CR 250 is not set up to idle, period. The air screw has no function over the ability of the bike to idle. A lot MX bikes are like that. As far as the leaky exhaust goes, the pipe can be made healthy once more. There are several companies advertising in Cycle News that rebuild pipes for around $35. When you get the pipe ready, clean the manifold free of grease and oil and use an exhaust sealant. Problem solved.

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SUBJECT: SUZUKI RM 80

Rick
My son's 1998 RM80 seized up because he ran it with almost no coolant. After rebuilding the engine, the mechanic told me to use 40:1 mix instead of the 20:1 the manual calls for. What should I do?

Thanks.
Allan San Martin

The mechanic is correct. Although I prefer to use 32:1.

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SUBJECT: NEED TO KNOW THE YEAR!

Hello Rick,
I was wondering if you could tell me what year this bike is that my husband and I have purchased! Its a Yellow Yamaha 80cc with no stickers or writing! It has a mono shock on the back and the front fender and number plate are all one piece! Its in excellent running condition and all the plastic is on it! Its been fun trying to get it all back Yellow since a couple of Kids had spray painted flames on it! With it being in running condition and the Year ?? What would the value of this be?

Thanks,
Kimberly Shears

Your YZ 80 could be most any year, as the YZs were yellow for a long time. Try this: look at the steering stem directly behind the front number plate. There should be a stamping, or a metal plate, that should tell you the year of manufacture. If it was built in say 10/76, then it's probably a 77 model. Most of the bikes were built in the fall for the year to come. I can't give you a value without knowing the year.

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SUBJECT: CR 125

Hello
I have a 2002 CR125R and it has ran perfectly fine for months now. I stuck with a 40:1, i did not change the gas/oil ratio . But now it all of a sudden fould plugs in 30 mins. Im sure its not the jetting. Cause it ran perfectly fine one day before this started happening. I went through 5 plugs in one day. I really have no idea what it is now. My local mechanic said that i overheated the bike and i damaged the crankshaft oil seal on the clutch side. So now he says the tranny oil is getting into my head because of the vacuum caused by the piston. Do u think this is the problem? Or could it be something else? Since im gonna rebuild it soon they say to go with a 2000 CR125R head on my bike. Would this help, how?

And what pipe would be the best for my bike. I either want to get a FMF Factory Fatty, SST, or a Pro Circuit Works or Platinum. I want more bottom end. Would i have to get a 2000 pipe if i get a 2000' cylinder head? I know this is alot of questions but i really need help.

Thank you in advance
Junior 125

Listen closely Junior. A real live mechanic told you what was wrong and you refused to listen to his diagnosis. You should pay attention to what he said. As far as modifying your bike, forget it. Fix the thing up with stock parts and just ride it. You're never going to get much low end power out of any high-strung 125. Don't waste any money on any aftermarket pipe on a three year old bike that you're not going to race in the pro class.

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SUBJECT: KX 100

i bought my grandson a brand new kx 100. we broke it in and rode it until it had about 2 hrs. on it. i pulled the plug, ngkr6252k-105. as i expected it was black, sooty, not real oily or gooey. i changed the plug, put the same kind in. we rode it on the track for about another 4 hrs. i pulled the plug again. it looked just like the first plug. should i lean out the carburetor slightly? a friend of mine who has been racing forever, said that 32:1 is too much oil. he said to run it at 36 or 40:1? if this is o.k., should i still lean it out slightly or wait and check the plug after a couple of hours and if it still is black, then lean it out? or should i go to a ngk br9eix? also, what can i do to give his bike a little more power, a pro-circuit pipe and silencer? if so, will i have to rejet, the main and the slow jet, then willl i have to lean or richen the carb?? by the way, i put a twin air air filter in the bike!! thank you so much,

brady clifton

Your friend who has been racing forever has it all backwards. If you lean out the ratio (go from 32:1 to 40:1), it will richen up your jetting. Less oil equals more gas. More gas to the same amount of air means richer. Lean out the jetting a bit and retain the 32:1 ratio. By the way, nice punctuation.

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SUBJECT: OLDER KX 250

I have a 87 kx 250. It usually starts on the 3rd or 4th kick, but on occasion when I have stopped for a break (after riding about 45 mins) and tried to restart the bike, it would not kick over. I usually end up flooding it. What sort of thing(s) might be the problem? Thanks.

Reese

Sounds like you have a leaking fuel needle and/or a poorly adjusted float. Try that first.

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SUBJECT: XR 100 STUCK THROTTLE

hey i have a 1995 xr 100 and the throttle is stuck wide open the whole time it is running and i have worked on it messing around with it to try to vigure out what it is but everytime i try it still dont work

No Name

It's Mister Hey to you, buster. So you're riding around on an XR with a stuck open throttle, eh? You don't think that an inspection of the throttle cable would help, do you? Nah. Just keep riding.

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SUBJECT: VALUE OF 1978 250 HERCULES

I was wondering the value of a 1978 hercules 250 it is in fair to good condition runs strong.

Thanks
Brian Hall

Tough question. The Hercules is not a popular collectors bike. And getting parts would be a nightmare. My best bet would something in the $700 range ... unless you can find a fan.

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SUBJECT: FOULING YZ 125

Rick,
I have a completly stock 2001YZ 125 and was using book recommended BR9EG fouled about 20 plugs and can never get in a decent day of riding due to fouling. My plug is always black and wet and I have to change my packing due to sponge of oil. I went to the dealer and got the BR8EG plugs and he said should help.

Do you recommend the BR8EG or the BR8ES ? Also what oil premix ration i.e. 30:1 - 40:1 ?....I do not ride hard MX track, more on the trail side....and if you know the proper carb settings ?

Any assistance would be appreciated. Great site and info.

Tks in advance,
John

I would simply lean the jetting out until the black plugs ceased. For trail riding, the warmer B8 is the correct plug.

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SUBJECT: OEM PARTS DEALER FOR 81 XR200

This may sound like a dumb question, but I can't seem to find any parts listings for the pro-link suspension on the early 80's XR200.

I bought the old bike for my son, and we broke the lower shock link bolt (the one that attaches the link to the frame) on it's first ride. The (large) Honda dealer here in Renton WA can't seem to figure out how to order any parts for the rear suspension (they must think it never breaks or wears out--according to their computer this bike didn't come with a rear suspension).

They use the same online fiche that BikeBandit and others use...It's got lots of parts, but not a single one from the rear suspension (the girl at the parts counter said "well, I could spend all day looking for this...) meaning it wasn't worth their time. Remember when the person behind the parts counter knew more about the machine than the manufacturer?

I've looked and looked, to no avail. Surely the great Super Hunky has a crystal ball that can suggest an OEM parts dealer that actually wants to sell parts? At this point, I'd pay a hefty price for it (the part, not the crystal ball)!

Thanks,
Mike Sharp

You should have no trouble finding the parts, as the XR 200 has not changed much in years. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if the link from the CRF230F fit. It's worth investigating.

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SUBJECT: YZ125 2003 FOULING PLUGS LIKE THERE'S NOT TOMORROW

Rick,
I just picked up a low time 2003 YZ125 and it's fouling plugs like crazy. 3 a day is common and it's getting expensive. I had it into the dealership and they claim they leaned it out. The next time I road it everything was fine. A week later my son road it and fouled yet another plug after riding for only 15 minutes. He doesn't ride as hard as I do but he rides hard enough that it shouldn't foul plugs. I plan to try a hotter plug to see if this helps but I have a feeling something else if wrong. If I let the bike sit without immediately turning off the gas fuel will drip (almost flow) very quickly from the overflow line. Could there be something wrong with the float? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Bill DuCharme

It's obvious that you have a leaking fuel inlet needle and seat. Fix that and your problem should go away.

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SUBJECT: CT 175 STALLING

Rick,
I've got a 1973 Yamaha CT 175 that stalls out when it gets hot. Got any ideas as to the problem?

Jennifer Howard

Sounds like the coil is going bad. I'd have a shop bench check the coil.

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SUBJECT: DON'T ASK!

i was wondering do you know the top speed of a 2002 rm 125

Slimjim

Yes, I do.

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SUBJECT: DRZ 400

Rick
I have a 2002 DRZ 400. I've ordered a Stage Two HotCam for the intake. The guys at HotCam say I should take my old intake and use it on the exhaust side for some significant power gains, BUT, I will loose the decompression feature that was built into the stock exhaust cam. What does this means in terms of starting my bike (electric start only). Will it just have to crank more? Not crank at all?

Mike Belleville, IL

The decompression was used primarily as an aid to kicking the bike over. With an electric start, you should notice no difference in the starting.

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SUBJECT: 2-CYCLE OIL

I have a 2001 ya125 (stock) and a 2001 KDX 200 (also stock). I have been mixing Yamalube 36-1 with premium gas, but would like to switch to Amsoil synthetic 2-cycle oil (50-1). Have you had much experience with the Amsoil 2-cycle oils? Is the switch ok, or should I stick with what the bikes are used to?

Thank you so much for your time, the forum information is great!
Ken Lehman

I used Yamalube for many years with great luck at 32:1 ratio. I have no experience with Amsoil, but I personally don't like ultra lean ratios.

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SUBJECT: SINCE 1972

Rick,
Since 1972 I have been reading your editorials. I truly enjoy your insight, wisdom and wit, it makes your articles so down to earth and real. I got into bikes probably around 1968 and have been since. My first "dirt bike"? well a dual sport from the vintage era a 1972 TS-125J "Duster", then I moved on to the love of my life that endures to this day, the 1972 XL250 Honda, in fact I have a 1975 XL-125, 175, and a 1972 XL250 and a 1974 XL-350 all in incredible sanno condition, they can be viewed in the gallery at http://www.oldrice.com/xl_page.htm under Dave the Motosportman's bikes. Please take a look! I do all my own engine work and have become quite adept at restoration.

Recently I bought a 2005 XR650L. A bike I believe to be the great grandson of the infamous XL line. It is quite a bike - although heavy - as proclaimed to be, but it also weighs about the same as my 74 XL-350! so It does not bother me as I am a casual trail rider.

Well just thought I would taek a few minutes of your time, and hope to hear back from you. Like I said I always admired you and your articles. Spent 30 years in the Navy and alotof the times while away from home those articles brought a smile to my face. Thanks! and take care.

All The Best
Dave

Good site, Dave. XL people will love this one. I've included your site address in the column.

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SUBJECT: CLUTCH QUESTION

What type of clutch do I need for a 11 Horse Motor on an off-road go kart?? It is chain drive.

Thanks so much!
Kyle from Tennessee

This comes under the heading of a dumb-assed email. No motor type, size or year. Kid, go to your room and stare at the corner for a month or so.

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SUBJECT: HOW FAST?

Hey I got a question to ask you and please answer it 100% correctly. I wanted to ask you this question because it looks like u know a lot about dirt bikes. Well my question is what's he max-speed of a Yamaha 125yz

Ryan

Exactly? How about 61.2542278901 miles per hour. Get a life, kid.

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SUBJECT: DYING

Hi Rick,
I have a Question for you, I have Suzuki DS100 and when i start it, it dies if I don't sit there and give it gas the whole time. What do you think the problem is? Is it the carbuerator? One more question, my carbuerator is leaking a lot of gas our of the overflow tank. Why is it leaking so much? I had it rebuilt.

Thanks,
Matt

You don't think the carb slobbering gas all over the floor could have anything to do with it, do you?

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SUBJECT: IGNITION OUTPUT VOLTAGES

Hi Rick.
I was wondering if you happen to know what voltages the charge coil, pulse coil, and cdi unit would produce when kicking bike over and when running? I have a 1983 IT250 and it has a nasty miss at the top end, just as you are about to climb a big sand dune. It defiantely sounds like a ignition misfire. Performing a resistance test shows nothing, so I would like to use my Peak Reading Volt Meter. Any help from you would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
Mike

Sorry Mike, but I don't have any data on that. Your only option would be to take an existing properly functioning ignition unit and take the readings off that.

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SUBJECT: BROKEN SPOKES

My son has a Honda XR100 that has about 6 broken spokes on the back tire. How can you replace these? Or do you have to buy a whole new tire?

Thanks for your help. This is his first dirt bike.
Debbie Reese

Simple. Just remove the tire, remove the broken spokes and replace them with new spokes. Then adjust all the spokes. Oh yes, replace the tire.

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SUBJECT: ENGINE BREAK-IN QUESTION

Dear Mr. Sieman,
I am a long time reader and fan. I just have one quick question. I know that before new bikes are shipped out from the factory they are started and run up to redline in each gear on a dyno to ensure that there aren't any engine defects. I was wondering if this adversely affects engine life? I have always been a strong proponent of careful break-in and warm-up procedure on my bikes, and was curious as to whether or not this was harmful. Thanks.

Ian Westcott

I've been to many factories and the bikes are started and run. But not to high revs in each gear. Do a proper break in on your bike.

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SUBJECT: BREAKING IN A 2000 CR 125

Dear sir,
I have a cr 125, in a shifter kart, that has been sitting for over 5 years. The motor was crate from honda, & has not been broke in. I have a manual, & it does not address this.

Also i have been told at least 5 different ways to do it. Your help will be appreciated.

Thanks
Dave

Like any motor, the break in should done thusly: Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly before you take off. Then, ride at a moderate speed for a half hour or so, letting it cool down before riding again. Repeat for the first three or four hours of operation, then drain the engine/trans oil. You are now ready to run the engine to the redline a few times, letting the engine cool down properly between each run. You are now ready to let it run hard.

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SUBJECT: TT 225

Hi,
First time emailer (to you)!

I have a 2001 Yamaha TT-R225. I had it major serviced at a Yamaha dealer in the spring of 2004, and it ran great all year. Last fall we put it in storage (drained the fuel tank, took the battery out for trickle charging) and felt pretty smart. About 1 month ago we got it out, set it up - fueled it up and [tried] to fire it up.

Granted, it is a cold blooded motor, and it was only about 40 degrees F, but it simply would not start. Turns over (electric start), has good spark, fuel lines drains fuel out (line to carb).

Now, that it is warmer - here is what it does if you let it set for hours. It may start - with full choke at about 60-65 degrees. It may run - poorly (because of the choke), and you may be able to ride it. As you are riding it (1-3 minutes), it will go slower, and slower, until it just stops. Then it won't start again, unless you let it set for hours or days and it is at least as warm.

I am planning on disassembling the entire fuel path, carb, etc... what do you think is going on???

Regards,
New Guy

You drained the tank, but did not drain or properly clean the carb. Your bike displays all the symptoms of a badly plugged set of jets, especially the pilot jet.

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SUBJECT: HOT XR 650

Gaday,
Just woundering if you could help me with a ? Are xr650r 's prone to overheat at idle?

Can you get thermo fans for them?

Thanks
Crooza

Yes, the early 650s tended to overheat at idle, or at ultra low speeds in tight woods. They improved somewhat, but are not perfect. I haven't seen any fan kits yet.

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SUBJECT: PLUG IT

Dear Mr. Super Hunky,
My husband and brother-in-law are modifying a Suzuki rm125 for use in a shifter go-kart. For days they have been arguing about the coolant plug. Apparently, the original plug is missing and the lack of threads in the hole has them stumped. My husband prefers to leave the hole 'corked' up like the previous owner did. Fearing a cork blowout, my brother-in-law is insisting they create a custom metal plug.

Any advice that I can use to cork them both up?

Appreciate your time.
cft

There is some pressure in the cooling system, no doubt about that. Go for a real plug, not a cork.

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SUBJECT: WIDE RATIO GEARBOX

Hi Rick,
Well, I have a few questions about Honda dirtbike transmisssions and have no idea where to go to get the info. There use to be wide ratio gear sets availible for the cr500's. I haven't seen any of them for sale for years, I have searched ebay, the net, etc for quite some time and haven't been able to find anything. So, my question to you is, is it possible to use gears out of one of the 4-stroke XR series bikes (I have heard their transmissions are wide ratios) and create a wide ratio setup for a cr? Is there any other way that this could be done?

Thanks for your time!
Kelly.

Nope. The XR series and the CR trans are not interchangeable. The reason you don't see the CR wide ratio gears available anymore is because the CR500 is not made or sold anymore.

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SUBJECT: DIRT BIKE EVOLUTION PROJECT..PLEASE HELP!!

Hi,
My name is Robin James and I'm doing a project on the evolution of dirt bikes. Unfortunately I waited until the last minute to do my project, and my 5-7 page paper is due Thursday. I was wondering if you would possibly be able to e-mail me some information about the first dirt bike and the evolution of them up to todays time period. I basically have to outline the years from 1940-now.I've emailed and called companies and nobody seems to care enough to respond, so if you can help me it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Robin

Nobody - including me - cares because you waited until the last minute. Basically, I hope you get an F and have to repeat the year.

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SUBJECT: GUIDE

Rick,
Good to find your site! I started reading Dirt Bike in 1971 until about 1985. Pretty much the time frame of my career with dirt bikes. Then came along marriage, kids,responsibility, that old chestnut.

I am planning to get bikes for me and my teen sons and enjoy the magic again, but 20 years absence has left a blank as to what bikes to look for. I like your Ultimate Vintage Dirt Bike Guide, but with all the four stroke technology (whoda thunk) I don't know what to look for. What about a guide for fairly late models to choose from.

I heard some of the early aluminum frame bikes reminded one of the old Yamaha 400's. Scary.

Dave Kramer

I don't have the interest in compiling such a guide. But thanks for the pleasant thoughts.

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SUBJECT: FORK OIL

Hir Rick.
I have just replaced the fork seals on my 1991 Yamaha YZ125, and was wondering how much oil i should put back in, or where i can find out... Thanks.

Surfkid

Good timing. In the July issue of ORC, I'll have a tech article on how put oil in your forks. Meanwhile, try six inches of oil level, springs out and the forks compressed.

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SUBJECT: FUEL MIXTURE FOR THE HONDA 250 2 CYCLE ENGINE

Rick:
My boyfriend just built a go-cart from the ground up. It was great watching all those pieces of metal and scrap parts turn into a new toy! We purchased a Honda Odessey 250 cc, 2 cycle engine for it and fired it up tonight. However, the air was full of dense smoke which leads us to believe we need a leaner fuel mixture. Can you provide us with some guidance? What fuel mixture should be used for this engine? THANKS much!

JT
June Taylor

As with most any two stroke, try a 32:1 ratio. However, you might have a worn out motor. Check the top end for worn rings.

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SUBJECT: HUSKY OR 1979

What is the value of a 1979 Husqvarna, with original fenders, etc... Good shape and starts like a dream. Thanks.

Jean

It's not a true vintage bike, so figure on about $1000, depending on how it looks.

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SUBJECT: RE: TEN WORST DIRT BIKES OF ALL TIME

That was by far the funniest thing I have read in a looooong time, and I don't even ride dirt bikes.

Scott

Thanks for the feedback. Anyone interested in vintage bikes should read this.

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SUBJECT: 1975 HONDA MT 250 ELSINORE

Rick,
My father and I have a 75 honda MT, but the motor is shot. I found one that is similar, but the difference is that on the new one there are 2 spark plugs. The one on our bike has only one. Is there a way to modify ours to fit? or do I have to find another motor? Which would be the easiest way of going about it?

Thanks,
Jeff

If the motor is from a 75 MT, then don't worry about the extra plug. It's just that - an extra plug. Run your plug wire to the center plug.

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Subject: Honda v Kawasaki

Hi Rick.
I am trying to decide between a very clean 2003 Honda CR250 and a new Kawasaki KDX200. The KDX is only slightly more expensive (this is in South Africa so prices don't make as much sense as the US). I will probably do more Enduro / trail riding than motocross; weigh in at under 200 pounds, about 1.8metres tall.

I am surprised that a second hand Honda is almost the same as a new KDX - what advise can you give?

Thanks
Karim

Go for the KDX. It's a good all around bike and much more suited for enduro and trail riding that the CR 250. When new, the CR 250 cost about $1200 (US) more than the KDX, which would explain the price differential.

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SUBJECT: RE-RING IT

Hey, great site....I started riding on old British bike many moons ago also, but have little experience with 2 strokes...however Ive just re ringed my sons 87 yz80( as well as new back brakeshoes, front end seals etc..) he bought a few weeks ago.What Im interested in is the likely ring life in this machine..the manual says re-ring every 2 races, and at the moment he's giving it heaps for 2 or 3 hours a pop at the local(ish) riding area.Ive bought a new piston, 4th oversize, for when it does eventually give up the ghost again, but was wondering if theres any way you could predict life between re-rings or rebores,

thanks,
Dean

It all depends on how clean the kid keeps the air cleaner. If he takes care of the bike, he could get a full year of riding figuring a few times riding each month.

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SUBJECT: SMOKIN' XR

Rick;
I have just discovered Don't Ask while trying to get info on a problem I have with my 1985 XR250 Honda, your wealth of knowledge and experience may be able to help me, it's a tricky one so I'll try to give as much info as possible.

I bought the bike for $150 Australian with a dead motor (dropped valve, smashed piston etc) but otherwise in mint condition, I rebuilt the engine with a new Wiseco piston .040" over, rebored the cylinder (.0025" clearance), rebuilt the head (lots of welding, new guides, seats, valves and stem seals) new timing chain and new gaskets, while I was at it I ported the head, welded on extensions to the cooling fins, match ported the headers, bumped the compression to 12:1 (we've got good fuel over here!), fitted a second hand alloy muffler, opened up the airbox and fitted a twinair air filter.

The bike goes hard, I regularly outrun mates on their newer, bigger bikes (2001 XR400, 1998 XR250), which annoys them greatly as I've spent 1/8 of the cost of their bikes.

All was good for about 1500 miles and then the bike started to smoke at idle, performance did not drop off at first but the smoking quickly developed until it became chronic and started to foul the plug at idle, under power the smoke clears and the bike runs fine.

When the motor was cold it dosen't smoke at all, I guess wherever it's pulling oil from is to small a gap for cold, thick oil to get through.

I figured it was probably pulling oil through the valve stem seals or around the outside of the inlet guides so I pulled the motor down again, the stem seals looked fine but the guides were a little loose (not wobbly, just fairly easy to knock out) so I refitted them with heaps of loctite and some sealant under the flange that sits against the head, re-cut the seats, honed the bore lightly and put it back together again.

All was good until this morning, I got caught in traffic on the way to work and the bike got fairly warm and started smoking at idle again, I let it cool down then fired it up again - no smoke until it warms up (the bike did 100 miles since I had it apart).

I'm assuming the loctite has let go and it's pulling oil around the guides again but I would appreciate your input before I pull it down again so I only have to do it one more time.

I am a qualified Automotive Machinist and Engine builder by trade, I own my own machine shop and have twelve years experience behind me so as you can imagine this is driving me nut's, not to mention becoming embarrassing.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and may stop me from burning what is otherwise a very nice early XR.

Thanks,
Tony

No doubt about it, the valve guides are worn and letting oil into the combustion chamber, Replace 'em.

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SUBJECT: SUZUKI PE 175 X (MOD 1981)

Hello I'm interested in buying some spare parts for the motorcycle in the "subject" that is as coming from the parts catalogue:

PART NO DESCRIPTION Q/ty
44100-40520-163 Tank, fuel (yellow) 1
68110-40510-76P Tape Set 1
12200-40500 Crankshaft Assy 1

Please let me know:
1.Availability
2.price
3.shipping & handling
4.way of payment (cash on arrival)

Thanks in advance
John Xagoraris (GREECE)

What do I look like, a used parts store? Read the rules.

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SUBJECT: SUNSET TRIPPER

What ever became of Triumph of Burbank and the "Sunset Trippers"? Any known survivors of either? Were the "Trippers" done by any other Calif shops also?

Wayne Roberts
Ft. Lauderdale, Fl

They sold the Sunset Tripper into the mid-70s. I had a chance to buy the bike that I raced in the Mint 400 in 1970, but passed on it, much to my everlasting regret. I don't know where any of the bikes are at this point in time.

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SUBJECT: 1983 PW50

my pw50 is making a small pinging noise, like a piece of metal clinging, but i think that most of that is normal until yesterday when it just started making the loudess pinging noise, when me and my sons were on it a little too much weight i am sure but, so i shut it off, and started it back up and it ran fine at idle but if i gave it some throttle is started pings really load again and i let the throttle go back to normal idle but it would not stay running, so then i let it cool down. i then tried it again and it started but the load pinging noise was gone, i rode and it had the same power before this happened, i seem to run fine, but it will not hold and idle, it just quits. what do ya think, i am sure it could use a rebuild.

thanks
brent

It sounds very much like you have old or bad gas in there. What you're describing sounds like ignition pinging. If your fuel is fresh, chances are you have some crud or water in the float bowl of your carb.

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SUBJECT: JETTING QUESTION

i need help with some exaust issues on a 1989 cr 125r. i bought a fmf fatty pipe and silencer. do i have to change the jets in the carb? it has a 165 main and a 60slow. if you have any answers please let me know.

thank you,
brian

Let's see ... you bought the pipe from FMF and you're asking me the jetting that works best with their pipe? Something is wrong here. You don't think that FMF knows, do you?

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SUBJECT: KDX 200

I have a 1997 KDX 200 that I blew the engine on. I am thinking of boring it out to be a 220 engine. Do you know what I would need to do to the carb? Also I was looking at buying a 2000 KDX 220 engine if it was too much to fix mine. Will that bolt on to my KDX 200?

Thanks,
Chad

The 200 and 220 engines are virtually identical except for the carb size and the bore. Take it from there.

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SUBJECT: 1991 HONDA CR 80R

I was wondering what would make the right side of the crankcase cover blow a hole from the inside out in a perfect circle shape. What is weird about this to me is it had allready blown the hole and was still shifting gears fine even after we noticed the damage. Can you possibly return an answer for me?

thanks much,
Michele (Michigan)

Sounds like the crankcase vent hose got pinched or clogged up. When that happened, the hole appeared, as if by magic. It'll shift fine until it runs out of oil.

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SUBJECT: HEAT RANGE

Hello
My son has a 2002 ktm 50sx pro senior lc. I am not very good with 2 stroke engines, the question I have is regarding the spark plug, It says to use a ngk br10eg, this plug seems to fowl out quite a bit. I talked to my neighbor and he ended up putting an b8es plug in and it seemed to solve the problem, my experience with 4 stroke cars tells me I could run a chance of melting a piston by changing 2 heat ranges on the plug I have been putting octane boost in the fuel in hopes to not have this happen until I know if it is safe, am I running a to hot of plug? if the br10eg plug is the right plug what are the basic things I should check firsts to solve this problem thank you for your time Jason Mayberry I ask because I am a family of 5 with an income of 10.00 an hour It is hard for me to just take it to the shop and have them fix it.

thank you again
Mayber

Chances are your son is not riding the bike fast enough to keep the colder 10 plug clean. If he is riding the bike hard, he could indeed smoke the top end. Try a B9 plug first as a compromise.

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SUBJECT: TURN SIGNALS/BRAKE LIGHT/REAR BRAKE

Dear Mr. Hunky,
On my bike, '75 Aermac-Harley SX 175, the turn signals do not work nor does the brake light with the rear switch. The switch has been junk awhile, and I've been relying on the front one - which as you would have guessed - shorted out and started frying fuses. So now I can't street w/o a brake light. And I've already tried a new flasher and cleaning connections/brake switch terminals.

My question: What does the rear brake switch have to do (if anything) with the signals not working? Also, I am thinking of replacing the rear brake cable since I'll probably have to take the thing apart anyway. When should you replace the rear brake cable? What about the brake shoes while I'm at it?

Thanks,
Nick

Finding switches for your old H-D would be nearly impossible, so trying to track down new OEM parts would be an exercise in futility. Your best bet would be to trace down the dead short/s in your system and start from scratch. Pick up an auto brake switch (a few bucks at most auto parts stores), the universal type. Run fresh wire all the way around from the battery on back. As for the turn signals, same thing there.

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SUBJECT: 1982 XT 125 CARBURETOR PROBLEMS

Rick,
I recently got back into dirt bikes after a 2 decade hiatus, and was at a friend's house to drop off my YZ 250 at his garage (he's storing my bike since my apartment doesn't provide a place) when he mentioned he was having an issue with his 1982 Yamaha XT 125. The bike had been sitting for some time before he received it from a co-worker at our office.

Symptoms:

1. Non-existant idle. It would simply die if you didn't continually blip the throttle.

2. After riding it for several hours, we noticed a "moderately" high amount of carbon fouling on the plug. Performance didn't seem to suffer, but there was a fair amount of carbon on it.

Maintenance steps we have performed on the bike thus far:

1. We checked and replaced the fuel line and inline filter.

2. We checked the screen inside the petcock to make sure it was clean and we had good gasoline.

3. We took the carb apart and cleaned it as best we could using carb cleaner, toothbrush, small soft bristle brass brush, and canned air to blow out all the jets and the carb, taking care to ensure all the parts were clean, and no jets were plugged from dirt, or gummed up after several years of non-use.

Not so good stuff I found:

As I was cleaning the carb, I noticed the seating area for the jet (I assume that piece of the carb would be called the "main" jet seat, anyway) had a small piece missing from the side of it. To describe this as best I can considering my lengthy abscence from bike maintenance, I guess if you could picture an ice cream cone someone has taken a small bite out of, that would describe it best. It's a very small piece, and it looks as if it has been missing many years, as the metal at the fracture point is no longer shiny...

The bike "seems" to run well otherwise, and is in suprisingly good mechanical and cosmetic shape considering its advanced age, but the idle just doesn't seem to work well at all.

Workaround steps:

1. I adjusted the idle circuit as much as I could, but had to resort to using the cable adjusters to get anything near an idle that works. However, it still dies if left idling for more than a short period of time.

Questions:

1. I have no idea what the proper range of sparkplugs are for this bike, so what range/models of spark plug should be used for this bike?

2. Would using a hotter plug (assuming it's within theproper range for the bike) reduce the carbon fouling? (I plan on having him run some injector cleaner through the bike to see if it removes some of the carbon that has built up over the years) I haven't changed the clip position on the needle because I simply forgot...I guess my long abscence has caused a lapse of memory...

3. Would the missing part of the jet seat area interfere with the idle of the bike?

4. As it is an older bike, I initially assumed partswould be hard to find. However, I have been able to find some 28mm Mikuni carbs on eBay for a reasonable price. Would it be better to just bite the proverbial bullet and buy a new carb?

Thanks for taking the time to read this, and thanks for the years of entertainment you have provided to us, the readers, when you rip our grammer, spelling, and knowledge.

"True" caustic wit is an artform, and you sir, are a DaVinci.

P.S. What's the difference between a "Butt Kisser" and a "Brown Noser"? (see below)

Depth Perception

I suspect that your problem might stem from simple thing like a tired old plug. Try a new B8E, because that's what the bike is happiest with. Yes, a thing like a cracked or broken main jet holder would make your bike run erratically, especially at idle. A small leak will display the traits you described. Instead of buying a new carb, fix the old one with a dab of JB weld. You can thread the stuff when it hardens.

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SUBJECT: GEARING CHANGES

Hi Rick,
i currently have a 1988 kawasaki kx125 and would like to know what the fuel/oil ratio is. I am converting it for road use and was wondering what kind of top speed it will do (should i fit a smaller rear sprocket).

Regards
adam

Unless you live in Bangladesh, I can't see how you are going to make a 125 MXer street legal. Should you somehow get it licensed, run the biggest countershaft sprocket and the smallest rear one you can find. Even then, you won't be breaking 80 mph. Use 32:1 for a ratio.

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SUBJECT: MORE GEARING

Rick,
You mentioned in a response to another writer's email that you run the largest countershaft sprocket and the smallest rear sprocket that Kawasaki sells for the KDX, on your KDX. Do you recall what the sprocket tooth count is on these two sprockets?

I am thinking about a change to a 14 front and 43 rear, which I think will yield a 17% change from original in final drive ratio, and wondered if this was close to the set up you are using.

Craig

I use a 15 countershaft sprocket (given to me Larry Roesseler when he worked for Team Green) and a 43 rear. This gave me an outrageous top end. Hope this helps.

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SUBJECT: 1988 HONDA NX 125

Hey thanks for reading it even if you don't feel its worthy to answer.

My sons honda nx 125 loses spark intermitantlly, it is not the kill switch on the handle bars, can you give me a way to test the cdi unit, the ign coil, and or pickup coil? ohms or otherwise? I am an auto mechanic and like teaching my son to fix everything on his own. if you could help with a little info or specs it would be greatly appreacited. thanks.. if you every need any info on autos, let me know ...

thanks
steven marshall

Do a bench check on the CDI or the coil by hooking a battery to it and leaving on while you take a reading. You'll need to refer to a workshop manual to get the correct readings and time for a proper bench check, as I don't have anything on the NX 125.

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SUBJECT: ZUNDAPP

Super-Spunky,
I read the warnings about bad grammar, etc. I teach writing at the college level, so it is possible that you'll only make fun of my bike. I may even show off by using a semicolon. I have a 1968 100cc Zundapp ISDT replica. I've had it for a few years and it's my favorite. I was going to sell it a few months ago to help finance my Norton Commando project, and I started taking photos of it to email the buyer. I had to email him and tell him that if he has always wanted one of these (since he raced enduro in the 70s), he'd understand why I just couldn't part with it.

My question, Rick, is that I can't find any source of information about this bike. I've bought a few Zundapp ads on ebay from 67-68 with Dave Eakins screaming along on the bike I've got, but I've never been able to track down much else about its popularity, availability, and value. I've tracked down an engine workshop manual, but not one for the frame/suspension. What I really need is advice on rebuilding the pneumatic fork system. I also need to locate new front and rear shoes; yesterday I slid around a sharp, dirt road corner to find myself almost riding up the red laquer paint on the trunk of my neighbor's 54 convertible Coupe DeVille, which had just eased onto the road.

I look forward to absorbing whatever oozes out of your brain regarding my beloved Z. One more thing: Cosmetically the bike is rough but original. Is this a case where it's more valuable to pepaint, stripe, etc? Or should I not molest it?

Lost in Rural Arkansas
Jason Masters

Jason, you're not trying in the right places. I did a GOOGLE search on the Zundapp 100 and came up with no less than 32,000 possible sources. While I only accessed a few pages, in the first page I found the Zundapp owners club. You should do the same.

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SUBJECT: WATER LOGGED

Dear Rick,
My son has a Yamaha TTR125. I continually told him that it is not a submarine but he insisted on going through water, deep as well, up to his knees. He has suffered the consequences of his actions when the bike did not start and I checked the oil and drained it. More water than oil came out, actually a congealed mixture came out after the water which was a mixture of Oil, and sand. Oh no. the sand has obviously created a paste like abrasive sludge that has prematurely worn everything in the crankcase. After flushing the crankcase 3 times and then adding good oil and changing the plug and drying out the air intake galleys and emptying the fuel and refilling with fresh gas, the bike now starts, but smokes badly at all revs. What is the least expensive fix for this situation. Thanks.

Worried Dad

There is no cheap way out. It's time to split the cases and rebuild the engine. Sorry.

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SUBJECT: BARSTOW TO VEGAS MAP

From a faithful Dirt Bike magazine reader era 1969 to 1980's. I was talking to a old dirt bike riding buddy (1970's) and the name Super Hunky and Dirt Bike magazine came up. Searched for your name on the internet and there you are. I remembered back in time when I had read the articles about the Barstow to Vegas race. Unfortunately I have heard that today the old race route is, shall we say, not an environmentally responsible route to take and is essentially off limits.

Is there an off road route that would somewhat replicate the old race that can be ridden on dual sport bikes? I currently ride in some awesome areas north of Phoenix Arizona and would like to get my old buddies together for old time sakes and do the Barstow to Vegas route. I am 50 years old now and have many, but not enough two wheel toys and am looking for some adventure. It is great to see that you are still around shoveling out your wisdom.

Thanks,
Greg

I have a limited number of Barstow to Vegas posters for sale on my new Website, www.superhunky.com. Send me your address and I'll mail you one for free. These have several legal routes shown.

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SUBJECT: EARNING IT

Rick-
Hey. I'm a 14 year old girl and love to ride. I need a new bike though because I was forced to sell my old one... long story. But it's finally time to get a new one. My mom and I were looking at some 125's and 250's. My ability to ride either one isn't the concern... it's the fact that we're having trouble finding somebody to finance my mom so that I can get one. She just went through a divorce and finding somebody willing to give her a loan is difficult. Any suggestions on what we could do to find somebody to finance a bike for us or are we just SOL?

Thanks

You're being horribly selfish. Your mother is going through a rough time, both financially and mentally. A real supportive daughter would get off her dead ass and earn enough money to buy her own bike. Of course, that's just my opinion.

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SUBJECT: DIFFERENT STUFF

hey hunk, is a clutch from a 01 dr200 zook the same as a yam ttr125? wanting to put a rekluse clutch on it and cannot get an answer.
Ron

Are you nuts? Your answer is short and sweet: NO.

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SUBJECT: CHAINS

Hey Rick, I have a quick question about chains.

I have a 1992 Yamaha RT 180 and the chain has been damaged due to falling off (and becoming bent). I have not yet priced the chain however the chain on it is a 428 DID. I happen to have a brand new 10 foot roll of 400 type chain, Can I use it? I can't visibly see a difference when comparing the 2 chains but I don't want to cause further damage.

Thanks in advance,
Nick

Nope. Stick with the stock sized 428 chain.

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SUBJECT: ARE THE NEW 4-STROKES WORTH THE COST?

Cheers Rick,
My name is Stanley, last time I wrote it was about the 60 plus motorcycles in my backyard. Time has past and now I only have one motorcycle a 1979 CX500 which is not the best dirt bike (especially since it is a street bike) but with the cylinders out in the air it is one of the easiest cycles to maintain (valve adjustments every 3-6k miles.)

Since my CX500 is easy and inexpensive to maintain would you recommend that anyone purchase a new KX,RM,YZ, or CR 4-stroke that needs the top end (piston, valves, springs, etc..) replaced after about 50hrs or at least 2 times a year? Wouldn't a person be better off with a DR,XR, KLR, or other easy to maintain non-competition motorcycle? Would you recommend that a person who is shopping for a new/used motorcycle look into the maintenance cost before they make the purchase?

Thank you for your opinion.
Stanley

The sad fact of the matter is that most people never think about maintenance when they get a bike. In fact, most bike owners only work on their bikes when they have to.

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SUBJECT: FORKED UP!

Rick,
I was wondering if you could tell me if I can fit a pair of showa forks from a 1997 CR250 onto my 1995 CR250, If so will I need to change anything like triple trees, axle, whatever? Also I can't seem to find showa on the web only a jap site that has no link info. Thanks,

Mike

Yep. Go right ahead and swap.

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SUBJECT: NAME THAT YEAR

Hi Rick,
Recently I inherited a Honda CR250 bike. The pink slip indicates a model year of 2004, but a sticker on the bike says 2003. Does the VIN# hold information about the model year and, if so, how can I decipher the VIN#?

I am a 60 year-old Grandma and have no use for this bike. I am interested in selling the bike but don't have a clue as to how to set the correct asking price. After market equipment includes a pipe, sprocket, and air filter. By now you have probably guessed that I do not have a clue as to either the importance or function of the after market equipment.

Help! and thanks.
Sue
a.k.a Meadowlark

It's a 2004 model. The tag indicates when the bike was built, which is usually in the fall of the actual model year. If the bike is ultra clean and has not been abused in any way, figure about $4000 for it. The sprocket and air filter don't add much to the value, while a "name" pipe like FMF, etc., will add about $100 to the resale.

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SUBJECT: XR 100

What is the best gear ratio for improving low end torque on a XR100?

My son is starting to hit the tracks and I want to give him a little more low end.

Just changed the back sprocket to 52 tooth because it was worn. This helped out but I think he will need more. I just don't want to over kill.

Eric Watkins

An XR 100 isn't going to have bags of torque, no matter what you do to it. Just gear the bike where it's easiest for the kid to ride and leave it at that. At this level, conditioning and skill are the most important things he can have.

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SUBJECT: HONDA XR 200R

With price as no barrier... is it possible to make a Honda XR 200R street legal? If so, could you please direct me in how to go about doing so?

Thank you,
Matt

You can do it cheaper than you think. All you need is a dead XL 185 and the title that came with it. Use the XL frame and all the stuff that came with it, and bolt all of your XR stuff on. Simple as that.

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SUBJECT: KILL BUTTON

Hi Rick,
My question is my Son has a 1989 Kawasaki kx80 dirt bike, we bought it used and the engine stop button has not worked since we got it. I took the button apart and everything looked ok with that. Next i bypassed the button and touched the two wires going to the button and their was still no shut down of the engine. I traced the wires down to under the gas tank, one of the wire looks like its just a ground wire the other one goes into a small black box in the same location. After looking at the owners manual I am pretty sure this black box is called the cdi unit.

My big question is should i replace this unit and see if that is the problem or is there other things i should check? The bike runs great there are no other problems, it starts on the first kick with no problems while its running. If you you could help me with this problem it would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

Brace yourself for the price of a new CD unit! Your best bet is to trace the wire from the kill button to the CD unit and check to see if it's frayed or broken internally. Also, the button should short out on the bars metal.

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SUBJECT: GUTLESS CR 125

Hey,
I have a 1999 Cr 125 that i have owed for 6 months i love the bike i have no problems with the bike except for the fact it is a bit gutless up top. In a 5th gear pinned situation i get owned by Crf 230's and Xr 200's (is this because they have an extra gear ?) i think my Cr tops out at around 100km/h (it runs 14 51 gearing) but in acceleration i kill them does my Cr need a top end rebuild? or should i put less teeth on the rear sprocket ?? your help is greatly appreciated

Mark

The bottom line is that your 125 has very little top speed, about 58-62 mph is the real number. The mild-mannered 230 has a six speed gearbox and a top end in the mid-70s. So there.

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SUBJECT: OIL IT UP

Dear Sir,
I read your replies on a regular basis and i am astounded that one single human being can carry so much knowledge. As i take my hat off to you though i have a question which i cannot seem to get help with. I recently purchased a 2004 KTM 400exc but im having trouble finding out exactly how much engine oil it should take, some say 1100ml others say more, please help.

Thank you
Jon Barber

Play it safe and put 1200 ml in your bike. And change the oil often, like every three rides or so.

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SUBJECT: KAWASAKI KX 100

Dear Rick,
I have a 1997 Kawasaki KX 100, and it has some problems. My main concern is that when I put it in third gear it bogs down and dies I have tried to change the idle, i cleaned the air filter, and i remixed my fuel I seem to figure out what the hell is wrong with it. I haven't bought it yet but im hoping to if i can figure this problem out, anyways thanks for your time even if i dont hear from you.

Dale Cardwell

You gave me precious little information to go on, but I suspect you have something in the float bowl of your carb that's momentarily blocking the main jet when you run through the gears. There's nothing in the trans that would make a particular gear bog the engine.

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SUBJECT: 1978 MAICO 440 MAGNUM

Dear Rick,
Am a long time fan of you and your journalism sine the very beginings of Dirt Bike Magazine and wanted to ask a true Maico-master a couple of questions on a possible purchase I am thinking of making. Am seriously looking at a 1978 Maico 440 Magnum for vintage racing. The machine has been completely restored by an ex-Wheelsmith Engineering employee.

What were the weakest points of this model and what are some of the fixes you might recommend. Any info, however brief, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton for your time.

Rob Loubier (had the priveledge of meeting you in person briefly in San Felipe in 1989 while riding a Chris Hanes Baja off road tour trail ride)

The 78 440 is not legal for vintage racing. Anything up to 1974 is vintage legal. You could race the bike in the evolution class, but as good as the bike is, you'll be up against a bunch of 490 Maicos, which are markedly better than the 440. As far as weak points on the bike, make sure you have the small clutch in it, a Yamaha front brake, install a good air filter and put Works Performance shocks on instead of Girlings. Say hello to Chris for me if you see him.

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SUBJECT: HONDA 250 MXER

Hi Rick
I am getting back into riding after many years away. I just want to trail ride and have some fun in the woods. I just scored a 88 honda cr250 that was very well cared for which I like a lot but I was wondering if there is some way to smooth out the powerband some. The bottem end is a bit sluggish and then when the good power starts to come on it just hits really hard. If your not careful and the back tire hooks up it has almost gone over backwards on me a couple times . its almost like it just skips the midrange and goes from a sluggish bottom end right to an explosive top end. Is that the way these motors were meant to be? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Parkhurst

The 88 CR 250 is a motocross bike with not much low end power to speak of. It's all mid-range and upper rpm. Sorry, that's the nature of the beast.

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SUBJECT: CARB OVERFLOW HOSES

I have a 1989 Yamaha YZ250RWR. I have recently rebuilt the carbureator. I threw out the old carb vent hoses because they were old and cracked up. What is a good place to get replacement hoses for Carbs?

Best Regards,
Scott

Most any auto parts or good hardware store will have what you need. I get mine at Home Depot.

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SUBJECT: BULTACOS, RIDINGSTYLES, AND CR500S

Dear Mr. Hunky,
Thank you for your information on the CR 500 and KX 500. But I still have qustions about the CR 500. In your response you mentioned that the CR500 has below average suspension, headshake, and is a brute of a bike. Taking all this into account I am still intrigued by this machine and am very interested in getting one to ad to my collection.

I can get suspension mods to help with the suspension and a steering dampener can help with the head shake so I don't think those two aspects will be that much of a problem. I have to ask again, Just how powerful is this bike? Can this bike be ridden safely in the woods? Does it run hot when ridden at a slow speed? As for you recommending ktms, I realize that the open class ktms are good bikes but I am just not interested in them(except for the ktm 550). Since the 500cc two stroke has lost it's poppularity these bikes can be had for a low cost which is one of the reasons why this bike has peaked my interest.

My second question is about riding styles. I have been involed in bicycle freestyle and bicycle trials since I was 10 years old. Because of this my riding style is a little different than the standard off roading style. I almost never put my feet down(except for those times when I need to in turns) I also don't put my feet down when I come to a stop, I always standup and balance. I use pivots, flip turns, floater turns, jap zaps, tail taps, bunny hops, 180 bunny hops, abubicus, nose wheelies and various other techniques to navigate in extra tight terrain. I have been told that this is the wrong way to ride any off-road bike. I have never been injuried and I rarely fall or crash. There was one instance when I was riding with a few other people and one of them was a msf instructor(I did not know this guy) I rode up a wall that was more than six feet high and was maybe 5 degrees short of completly vertical. I made it all the way up with out a problem and when I rode back around he told me that it was wrong for me to have riden up that wall. I have been doing things like this for years and it makes getting around in tight terrain alot easier.

I asked him did he know what trials was and he said yes, then I asked if you know what trials is than how can object to me riding this way. He gave me a whole bunch of jibberish which I am not going to waste time in writing. In the group that I ride with I am the only one who does not have a whole bunch of injuries, I all ways make sure that I am in balance and in control. What I am asking is, is it alright to ride a regular off road bike like a trials bike? I find it odd to teach trials techniques and then tell people not use them or to experement and create your own techniques.

My final question is about the Bultaco Sherpa T 350 and Bultaco Alpina 350. I am very interested in getting one of these bikes but I don't know what to look for. If you can, can you tell me which ones out of the Sherpa model line 49 through 199 are best? Is there anything I should look out for? And which Alpina models out of the model 85 through model 116 are best. To things a little more clear about the alpina, I plan to turn it into to a trials bike.

Thank you very much
Tim

Trust me on this Tim, the CR 500 is all wrong for woods riding. It has a blast of power that would have you fighting the bike all the time. There are plenty of better bikes for the trails. The Sherpa T is a pure trials bike, while the Alpina has a saddle and larger tank and is much more suited to trail riding than trials competition. The latest model of the Sherpa is the best to have.

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SUBJECT: YAMAHA ENGINE SWAP ADVICE

OK, Here is my current situation: I have a 1973 Yamaha CT-1 with a bad fourth gear and no street parts left. the gas tank is totally screwed up with a bad dent and rust inside but the bike does run clean and crisp. I am being given another CT-1 that is beat to use the transmission parts from and being offered an old air cooled YZ 250. it has a bad CDI box and is seized from sitting too long. it got water down the crank and the bearings and seals are now wasted. the frame and suspension are in decent shape. do you think an engine swap would be wise? I was thinking it would make a nice and light bike that I could throw around trails no problem. Please go easy on my crappy letter and the fact that a decent new bike is in order. I am 17 as of June 12th and have little cash so that is why this swap looks promising. do you think the engine will fit? advice please!!!!!

Tony

Your current situation is sad. You're trying to make one decent running bike out of a bunch of junk. The price of a new CDI unit alone worth more than your entire bike. I beg you, take up something sensible, like eel juggling.

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SUBJECT: 1974 POWER DYNE MX250

hi ri
i just bought a 1974 Power Dyne mx250.the bike had been in storage for 20years and is in great shape.i saw the bike on your "ultimate vintage dirtbike list".i was just wondering if you could tell me alittle about the bike,that no one seems to have heard of?was it a good or bad bike?how rare are they?whats the average worth?and where can i find more info on them,i have searched the web with little success.

thanks,
Lee

The Power Dyne was a rip-off of the Yamaha of that period. It was horribly unreliable and did things like the rings sticking in the exhaust ports. They're not worth much, except as a curiosity.

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SUBJECT: RE: YZ125 1989

hi, i have a yz125 1989 model, i think its air cooled but my mate thought it was water cooled so we fillled up the radiator with water and it all went strait into the engine piston and all, what should i doooooo?

thanks :)
David

Hmmmm. My best bet would be to carefully mix some concrete with the water (50:50 ratio), pour it in the engine and let it get good and hard. That should solve your quandary.

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SUBJECT: WHICH PLUG

Rick,
First off...stupid question I am sure! I own a 1974 Yamaha MX 125A I have not had spark plugs in it since...well, I cannot remember the last time! Since then the plugs have been misplaced and the bike has not run in ages. I cannot for the life of me find a single soul to work on this thing! I have had it since the time of my childhood and still hold onto it for sentimental reasons. All I would like to accomplish is to make it run...With that having been said, what type of spark plug goes into such a bike and in all of your infinite wisdom do you know of any places that still work on bikes of this day and age? Thanks for your time and effort! Trevor - Haslet, Texas

Easy. Try an NGKB9E and you'll be a happy camper.

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SUBJECT: WOW! THANKS!

Hi, Rick,
Ben Niven here. You may not remember me and my YZ490 questions from the vast numbers of them you apparently receive, but you did take the time to e-mail me back personally a few times a couple years back. I was, at the time, interested in converting an '84 490 for marginal road-legal usage. You advised me to get rid of the bike before getting seriously hurt, saying that a sharp turn was east to north and that they handled like a three-legged table falling down a flight of stairs. You also answered a question I e-mailed you about a CZ400 motocrosser I saw for sale. It's a wonder we didn't get together for a neighborly game of tennis at some point in there.

Well, I got rid of the bike. I fell off a big extension ladder while painting our barn and hurt my foot. After I got off crutches, I couldn't kick-start it anymore. I sold it to some ding-dong for a small sum and while I had misgivings about that (ill-advised misgivings, you might say), I don't really miss the bike now.

Anyway, the reason I'm writing is that I want to belatedly thank you--I think--for including one of my past bikes in the April 2004 "strange bikes" article on the Off-Road dot com site. I'm referring here to the GT380 triple with RM125 suspension. I posted those photos to the "reader's rides" section of Rat Bike dot org, a site I find pretty entertaining. On that site's message board, someone asked about wooden motorcycle frames and one of the responses led me to a link to that "strange bikes" piece. Scrolling down, I thought "Holy crap! There's my old GT! Famous at last!"

That thing was a title-less $75 bike I bought to dink around with in college (mid-late 80s). In stock form it sounded cool and would do cool burnouts, but wasn't much to yell about apart from that. After putting the homemade expansion chambers on it, lighter RM forks and stiffer, taller RM shocks, it would do easy wheelies in the first four of its six gears. It didn't "handle," per se, but was reliable enough and fun enough to take it to Finger Lakes State Park, near Columbia, MO several times. With some imagination and bravado, you could entertain yourself for a weekend on the trails and on the motocross track. Back then there weren't any crazy astro-spiral quintuple acid-bath jumps or any of that other supercross bulls**t. I think it succumbed to crankcase seal deterioration, and I gave up on it. But it was a well-spent $150 or so overall; I had a good time on it and it made for some good stories and some priceless looks from kids on real motocross bikes out maintaining their identities at Finger Lakes.

Later on, I tried a similar but less extreme treatment with a Yamaha XS650. Stock suspension, bike stripped down a bit, homemade upswept pipes, etc. You didn't want to jump that one, but it was fun on hills and trails once it was geared down a bit. I could see where a person, once upon a time, could have fun off-road on a stripped down British twin. that one's on the Rat Bike Zone's "reader's rides" page too, covered in mud and drooling chain lube all over the pavement below.

So, glad you thought it was strange enough for your piece. Keep flying the flag of proper capitalization, punctuation and spelling in "Don't Ask," take care and say hello to the missus and the KDX, etc.
Ben Niven

Wow! So you're the guy who made that wide bike! Congrats on some cool home made engineering.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: 1974 HUSKY 250WR BING MADNESS

Hi Rick.
I'm dating myself when I say I remember fondly reading your column as an avid teenage SoCal motocross rider from the late 60's/early 70's. Remember the old CMC? Anyhoo, I'm back into vintage Huskys (my first new bike was a 1971 Rickman Zundapp), recently purchasing a 1974 250WR. My problem is that I cannot seem to get the Bing carb dialed in, even after replacing the slide and main jet. It starts rough (yeah I follow the starting ritual and fire it up okay), then loads up, barely idling. If I flash the throttle, I can keep it alive but it just won't stay lit. Excessive white smoke come out of the expansion chamber during warm up. Through the gears it runs rough and sputters, sounding like it is running rich.

I know what a decent 250 should feel like and this is way off on power. When I turn off the petcock and let the gas run out, the engine starts to run lean, and for a few "lean" moments runs exceptionally clean, then starts to run out of gas. What am I missing here? Is the float bowl sticking or is there some other mysterious problem I am not seeing. My web research shows there are three jets -- idle, main, and needle. I find it hard to believe all three circuits are out of whack as the engine runs poorly through all gears and at all rpm ranges. I have decent spark. The timing has been set to factory and the main seals have been replaced. The top end is new with great compression.

The question is how to best approach dialing in the Bing? What insidious problem would cause such symptoms to appear? Should I consider a Mikuni swap like those found on vintage CZs? Any thoughts?

I just want to take this Husky to Ocotillo Wells and Giant Rock for a great weekend getaway while the desert spring flowers are still blooming and it isn't so dang hot!

Keep up the great writing. I applaud you for not suffering fools and would-be-grammaticians . . . er is that grammaticists. Take yer pick. (My spell checker doesn't recognize either word but does recognize mortician -- thanks Bill Gates.)
Jim Filanc
Wildomar, California

P.S. -- my next resto project -- a Falta 250 CZ. I'm second owner since 1978.

I went through all my old Husky jetting specs, and came up with a set of numbers. Here they are:

195 Main Jet
2.85 Needle Jet
35 Pilot Jet
Air Screw 1.5 turns
Needle Position 3

If that doesn't do the trick, then I would suspect sucking gearbox oil past the seals.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: WATER DAMAGE

hey whats up rick, I have a question for you. I kinda ran my bike ('01 YZ250F) into a canal. We got it out in less than a minute so it wasnt in there too long. We got it home, drained the oil, took the gas tank off, took the spark plug out and cranked it to shoot the water out, then flipped it over and let it drain. since then I have changed the oil about 4 times to make sure no more water is in the engine. That same night we were able to start it with one crank, by hand. since then it has been starting up fine, and sounds as good as it did before going in the water. Is there anything else that I shouldve done or that I should do??

thanks dude
Scott

You did the right thing. I would drain the oil a few times more, after about 20 minutes of riding, and then again after an hour or so.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: PROJECT YAMAHA

Hello,
I have recently became the owner of my 1st project bike. It is a 1983 Yamaha IT250K. I am an auto mechanic but this is my first 2 stroke rebuild. With the bike came a Yamaha shop manual to which has been my bible for this rebuild. I searched the internet over and have spent a ridiculously stupid amount of money ( The bike was free ) on all O.E.M. parts. I have replaced all cables, frame and swing arm bushings, clutch pack, all bearings, seals, brakes, sand blasted and repainted the frame etc, etc, etc. The goal is a like factory new bike The cylinder and piston were good and still in spec. so I just lightly honed the bore and am now awaiting the rings ( there on back order ) which is all I need to complete the build.

My question is this. The book calls for a pre mix of 20 to 1. 12 to 1 for break in. When I took this thing apart the exhaust system was almost completely plugged from what my guess is a heavy oil mixture. I will be using Klotz R50 oil and 93 octane gas. Can I run lets say 32 to 1 or 40 to 1 and if so do I need to rejet the carb (# 380 is the main jet size now ). I live in north carolina close to the coast at sea level and will mainly be riding in warm weather 70 to 90 degrees or so. I won't be racing but will run this thing as hard as my nerves will let me. Any advise would be of great help to this 1st timer.

Thank You
John

Run a 32:1 mix ratio and, yes, you might have to run a slightly smaller main jet. Break the fresh parts in carefully.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: XL 600

Hi Rick,
I happened upon this guy selling a 1986 Honda XL 600. the bike has rebuilt/ modified everything except for suspension. the engine is bored to 640, with a high compression piston and a better crank, the intake and exaust valves have both been enlarged, the
engine is ported and polished. the bike has a full super trap exhaust on it. all in all it only has about 800 miles on it. the only weak spot it the braking and suspension.

all in all I am extremely impressed with this bike, its the cleanest I have seen for 86. the guy selling it used to be the mechanic at a local Yamaha dealer whom is very involved with local racing, and he is including a ton of extra parts. i'm picking it up for 1500. the suspension is not bad, but I have 1997 CR500 forks and triple trees, I was wondering if
it is possible to swap them out?

I personally wouldn't touch the bike. The bored-out 600s had a terrible track record in Baja racing.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: RIDING BAJA

RICK:
I rode hard as a kid on into the '80's in Texas when my kids came along. Regardless, me and my buddies used to wait on every issue of (was it Motorcross Action?) where you did your editorials. Never forgot the description of that guy named "Poole". Ever since then we always describe taking one another out by "pooling" them or being "Pooled".

Anyway, all grown up now. Got back into riding, kids, 5th wheel, whole shootin' match. Remembered any article you wrote couple years ago essentially saying "Baja: Just do it before you die". It inspired me. I now have tentative commitments from about 15 of the guys that I ride with now. We want to do a Baja Ride in March 2006. Am trying to find that article to reprint, hoping to cinch the deal with them but could use the inspiration of a master word smith. Is that article something you remember and if so, could email to me? Thanks in advance for your help not to mention your hard work for the sport as well as your sense of humor.

Randy Zorro

No problem, Randy. The article on Trail Riding in Baja is on my website: www.superhunky.com By the way, that guy named Poole ended up marrying my sister. That'll teach him.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: RICKETS

HAY SOOPER CHUNKY MY 125 WULL BEET ANY 250

Just kidding man, put your eyes back in your head. Over the course of my 30 years of trail riding, I have managed to squirrel away quite a few bikes. I keep almost everything I get my hands on, so when the revolution hits and our only remaining source of currency is orange soda pop and vintage dirtbike (that's right, dirtbike is one word) parts, I will be king.

The last new bike I bought was over ten years ago (KDX 200) and I am leaning toward taking the leap again. I am no motocross rider, mostly due to the fact that I am built like a silver back gorilla. Strange thing is...I drink at least a six pack of beer a day, eat mostly

cheese burgers and potato chips, yet the weight STILL wont come off (must be my thyroid).

Anyway, I am going for a big bore four stroke and was thinking the KTM 525 EXC or the XR 650r. My question is, which one of these do you prefer (mostly Oregon trail riding) and is there any other bike in this category worth taking a look at?

Have a good day Rick.
Scott.

The 525 KTM is brute, make no doubt about that. Still, it will require a lot more work to keep it happy than the XR 650. You won't like XR 650 at all in stock form. With the power-up kit in, the bike comes alive. If you just want have fun and not work much on a bike, the XR is the way to go. The KTM is 50 pounds lighter and is probably the fastest bike you can buy today.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: LEAKS

Rick,
I hope to god you could help me with this. I just bought a 1999 YamahaYZ400F. I was doing some woods riding last weekend and ended up losing all my coolant. I filled it back up and started the bike, after a couple minutes the bike started to over heat. I took the cap off the radiator to make sure it was circulating and it was. I rode the bike for alittle bit and stopped for about 30 seconds. Coolant started to come out from the over flow tube again. I called a couple mechanics and they said with that bike I have to keep moving. I understand that but stopping for only 30 seconds and having it start to over heat is a little rediculous isnt it?. Do you think theres something else that could be wrong or is this normal?. Please let me know, this is bothering the hell out of me.

Thanks
John

Sounds like you got a head gasket leaking. Check that first.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: HOLIDAY DIRT BIKE RIDING AREA

Hi Rick,
If you're still answering emails, I have a question for you. Back in the late 60's and early 70's I use to ride at a place north of HWY 138 between Gorman and Lancaster. It was the best place for many types of terrain. I recall it being called "HOLIDAY". Another section was called Bean Canyon. I know that there was some question back then as to the legality of riding there. We never did get hassled then. Since then I've gone on to Hungry Valley and other designated parks through the years.

Recently, a buddy of mine was out there again and asked me to join him that weekend. I was jazzed to re-live my youth! He went out the day before and that afternoon called me to say a retired "sheriff" came by his camp and hassled him and his buddies, threatening them each with a $450 ticket! Do you know what the specific law is about riding out there? Some of the riders who were out there actually own land right in the area and were equally upset by the "sheriff's" hassling. We are thinking of buying land out there so we can ride legally but are not sure of the laws.

Thanks,
"Chairpilot"

Only about 2 ? percent of the land in California is available for riding, and only if you have a green sticker on your bike. You can ride on the land you own. That's why I live in Baja.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: YAMAHA YZ250F

Hi,
I have read your rules, and I've tried to adhere to them. I have a Yamaha YZ 250 F, 2003 model with a problem i hope you can help me with. When closing the throttle, the bike takes ages ( about 5 seconds) to go down to idle speed. Other symptoms are fuel exploding in the exhaust when the closing the throttle.

Do you have any ideas what is wrong? The problem appeared after I changed the throttle cable, so I probably caused the problem but don't know how I did it or what i did wrong.

Regards,
Espen

Yep. You have an air leak.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: CHINESE BIKES

Hi Rick,
After reading your comments about Chinese motorcycles I agree 100%. I have a short description of another aspect to consider when talking about these machines.

A young man in my community recently purchased a mystery make 150cc Enduro. It lasted less than three weeks. While riding it over a speed bump in a parking lot, the frame failed at the steering head. The forks and triple clamp separated from the rest of the bike, sending the rider right on his head, then on to the hospital. His hospital stay far exceeded the cost of a real motorcycle.

It does not surprise me that importers, operating on the fringe of the law, get away with selling cheap knock offs to ignorant buyers. Someday, we will likely see much higher quality bikes coming from China. At present however, these machines are very suspect, as you have pointed out, OEM parts are next to impossible to get because in most cases the distribution network is non existent.

Chinese Motorcycles. Buyer beware.

I have always enjoyed your articles and value your advise. Keep up the

good work.
Regards,
Steve Davis

Couldn't have said it better, Steve.

DON'T ASK!

SUBJECT: THE STABLE

Dear Rick,
Thank you for all the laughs. Can I ask how many bikes you personally own, how many actually run at this instant, and the your daily machine. I had a 1990 KDX 200, and also found it wonderful. Also I have to wait to next month to get my copy of you book, but why do the big 5 sell bikes that are just so obnoxiously loud. I know 99% percent off the idiots would automatically change pipes to make them louder anyway.

Frankly, what do we expect if we ride bikes that are so loud. Rick, it is all about stealth, period. I live in the suburbs and my son and I place quietness, the first criteria. I liked what you wrote about pocket bikes, and I felt it was neat they were available, until you explained. I like the way you think. I was sorry you had health problems, and I apologize for joking about you still kicking. Can you still ride a lot, and does it bother your back?

Thanks,
Jay Cobden in Rhode Island

I have a KDX 200, a big XR, two 1970 Husky 400s that I'm restoring, and a brand new Honda CRF 230F. Oh yes, there are a whole bunch of leftover parts in the garage. The back doesn't bother me, but the knees are hurting.


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