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Upside Down Forks - Step By Step -Project Honda CRF230F - Part 12.1
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Upside Down Forks - Step By Step -Project Honda CRF230F - Part 12.1
May. 01, 2006
By Rick Sieman
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Upside Down Forks - Step By Step
Part 1
Uncorking the CRF
Part 2
Works Performance Rear Suspension
Part 3
BBR Exhaust
Part 4
Sidewinder Chain and Gearing
Part 5
Notes & Maintenance
Part 6
Installing A Battery Tender
Part 7
Tire Swaps and Wheel Wiring
Part 8
Front End Fix - Solving the Weak
Part 9
Questions, Feedback and What We've Learned about the Forks
Part 10
Eliminating The Key & And More Comments From Owners
Part 11
Questions, Answers and Work on the Forks
Part 12
Finally, We Get The Forks Done!
The task at hand; installing modern upside-down forks on the 230.
First we had to remove the 43 mm forks. The fender is held in place with 4 bolts.
Removing the number plate gives you a clear shot at the triple clamps.
Take the bar clamps off.
Cable guide is removed next.
Brake cable holder is taken off.
Four nuts hold the axle cap in place.
Axle can now be removed.
With the axle loosened, the wheel can be removed.
With brake removed (two bolts) the forks are bare.
Loosen and remove all the fork pinch bolts.
With the forks out, all that's left is the triple clamp.
You'll need a big socket to get the triple clamp holding nut free.
Top clamp goes first.
Remove the stem locking nut.
After the remaining parts are taken out, all that remains is the steering head.
Here's the forks we used, a set of 97 CR125 items. You can use 97 thru 06 CR125 forks to duplicate our efforts.
The new forks weighed 20 pounds with oil and axle.
The 43 mm forks weighed 119 with no axle.
If the bearings are supect, replace them.
You'll have to make a spacer for the stem. Measurements are 1.187in I.D., 0.340 inch wide and about 18 th inch thick.
Buy new races. You'll have to buy bearings with the races. Our Honda dealer was out, so we bought some 2004 YZ 450 parts instead.
The races had to be cut down to fit the CRF230 steering head.
Here are the dimensions of the modified races.
Tap out the stock race with a blunt drift and a hammer.
Take it easy and tap all around the race to free it.
Top race is now free.
Here's the modified race ready for installation.
Another view of the modified race.
Install the new races in the 230 head.
Tap the races in place with a block of wood.
Same with the bottom race.
Grease the bottom bearing properly.
The top bearing also gets greased.
Pop the bearing into the top race.
Now the bottom triple clamp can be slid home.
Make sure the stem goes cleanly through and is seated properly.
Put the dust cover over the bearing and the install the spacer.
Tighten the jam nut down, taking care that the forks still move easily.
Place top clamp in place.
The washer and the top nut in place over the stem.
Triple clamp in position.
Slide the bars home and bolt 'em into place.
Slip the fork tubes up into the triple clamps.
Forks in place.
Stock CRF230 brake will bolt home.
Slip the axle into bottom of the forks and through the wheel.
Use a wheel that will accept the 20 mm axle size.
Our wheel came from a '97 CR250.
Wheel bolted in place.
Brakes bolted home and the wheel is ready for a tire.
Maxxis tire was mounted on the rim.
Put the fender back on.
Cut the bottom mounts off the number plate to get it to clear the black box mounted on the steering head.
Black box rubs against the number plate when the forks are turned from side to side.
The number plate now fits cleanly. One bolt holds it in place.
Bend the stock brake line guide back, then bolt it into the existing mount on the lower triple clamp.
Use a pair of zip ties on the fork leg to secure the brake cable.
Completed fork assembly.
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