The Dana 60 is definitely the king of front axles but did you know you can make it stronger by upgrading the stub shafts? The axle normally comes with 30 spline stub shafts (outer shafts). The inner shafts are already 35 spline so you basically just need to purchase the outer shafts. Both shafts are the same length and can use the existing u-joints. We decided to also buy new inner shafts and u-joints since our inner shafts were the older style and tapered down a little in the center. The newer Dana 60 inner shafts don’t taper down like this. We wanted the shafts strong as possible plus this meant less down time for the K5.

Click picture for larger image	Click picture for larger image
Here's the old 30 spline being compared to the 35 spline.	Notice the older inner shafts (bottom) taper down in the middle. We've been told that 1980 and older shafts taper down like this.

Click picture for larger image	Click picture for larger image
The 35 spline Warn hubs utilize an allen screw to keep them where you want them.	They also have this blocker which can be removed. The blocker ring just makes it more difficult to engage the hubs.

Along with the outer stub shafts, you will also need new hubs. Unfortunately, there’s not too many choices for lockable hubs. Unless you have a shop make a custom set, Warn is the only company that makes them. The Warn hubs are actually made for the 9" or D60 full float rear kit but fit the D60 axle fine. The 35 spline hubs used are Warns part # 38787 (single hub). The pair of hubs is part # 38786. These do have lock screw on the dial and a positive blocker ring. The blocker ring and set screw are mods specifically for the intended rear axle application. Most rear axles are bent and this creates a circular motion on the end of the shaft as the axle spins and this circular motion tends to unlock locking hubs by pushing the gear out against the spring pressure. On a front end, any misalignment is taken up by the spindle bearing fit and the locking hub clearances, plus its got a ujoint between the tube and spindle so the spring pressure on the gear is enough to keep it engaged. The blocker ring makes a solid stop for the rear hub gear to hit against and keep it from coming unlocked. For a front axle, the blocker ring is not necessary, and neither is the set screw. The blocker ring makes it difficult to lock the hubs because you have to rock or move the vehicle so the splines line up. Since this is such a pain, we removed the blocker ring so the hubs work just like normal hubs. The set screw is in there for the same reason, just to keep the dial from rotating and unlocking. Instead of having a "click" when you turn them to lock or free, there's nothing. The allen wrench and set scew is used to keep the hubs in the selected position. The set screw is also a pain but some guys like the screw since it makes it harder for someone to mess with the hubs. Others just put loctite on the screws and the hub dials will never move. Installation:

First thing was having our local driveshaft shop put the inner and outer shafts together with the new Dana 60 u-joints. Yes you can do this yourself but we prefer to have a professional shop do this. Englewood Driveshaft in Denver, Colorado did the work. We also elected to paint our shafts to protect them from rust. Of course we couldn’t keep them just black. Had to get the ol' blue paint out and paint the u-joints. This actually makes it easier to see if the joints are turning.

The old shafts are removed by removing the caliper, hub/rotor, backing plate and spindle. A six prong hub socket is needed to loosen the hub nut. Some gear oil might leak out when the shaft is removed. One way to keep the oil at a minimum is to jack one side up at a time. The front axle will be tilted and the gear oil won’t leak out.

Click picture for larger image	Click picture for larger image
After taking off the brakes, hub, and spindle, the old shaft is removed.	Not much clearance inside the spindle but it does fit.

The oil slingers (looks like a plate with a hole in it) are removed from the old shafts and installed on the new shafts.

The new shafts are carefully inserted in the axle. We tried to keep the shaft from sliding inside the bottom of the axle tube. This could contaminate the carrier with dirt/debris.

The front corner is then put back together. Backing plate, spindle is carefully installed over the new shafts. There's not much room between the spindle and the new 35 spline shaft but it does clear.

Click picture for larger image	Click picture for larger image
This was the 30 spline shaft before it was removed.	Here's the 35 spline shaft installed.

The hub/rotor is installed next. The spindle lock nuts and lock is torqued as instructed:
--Using a 6 prong hub socket, rotate the wheel and tighten the adjusting nut to 50ft lbs and then back it off 90 degrees.
--While continuing to rotate the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 35 ft lbs and then back it off 3/8 of a turn.
--Install the lockwasher and outer locknut. Tighten the outer locknut to 65ft lbs. Bend one ear of the lockwasher at least 30 degrees over the inner nut and 60 degrees over the outer nut.
A new lockwasher had to be installed since the old one had definitely seen better days! There's a new modern style with the pin on the locknut. Either one works pretty well, but the newer one will usually last longer.

Before the 35 spline hubs are installed, we elected to remove the blocker ring. This comes out really easy and is not needed for the Dana 60. You can keep it in but it just makes it more difficult to lock the hubs.

The main body of the hub is installed along with the large and small snap rings. We used the locking rings that came with the Warn hubs and kept the stock rings as spares. The large o-ring is inserted in the new hub dial and finally installed. The screws are installed with small o-rings which make the hub more resistant to water. A final check is performed to make sure the hub is engaging/disengaging properly. When the hub is locked, it should rotate the u-joint and shaft.

Click picture for larger image	Click picture for larger image
35 spline hub body installed.	Hub dial is bolted on.

Too Strong???

Now with stronger 35 spline stub shafts, you would think that the axle is bullet proof right? Not exactly. The shafts and u-joint should be able to handle the major stress that will be placed on them but now the locking hub or ujoint could be the weak link. The locking hubs will hold up when the wheels are fully turned but the joint might fail under stress. But, when you're more straight on, the hub will most likely break. We actually like having a fuse in the drivetrain that's easy to get to and doesn't take much time on the trail to replace. We plan on purchasing an extra hub (maybe two) just in case this happens. If you don't like the idea of the hub being the weak part, you could always purchase the full time drive flanges as mentioned above. The Warn kit comes with everything you need to put it together. The only problem with the Warn flanges is that they don't have a spring or spacer to keep the stubshaft seals pulled tight against the spindle. This means that it's not water tight and a spindle and outer bearing are prone to water damage if a deep water crossing is encountered.

35 Spline Parts Source:

314 County Road 110, #2
Glenwood Springs, CO 81601
970-945-7777
www.offroaddesign.com