I can honestly say Kayline is a first class business. They're constantly developing new products for various applications and you can be assured that Kayline will always stand behind their product. Their tops are made with quality Hoartz OEM-approved sport topping fabric and the windows are made of 40 gauge AS-6 vinyl that's DOT approved. Each Kayline top is stitched with durable polyester thread that will not rot.

The thread and binding used on all Kayline tops match the top fabric color for a professional look. No need to worry about the rain since the seams are sealed to prevent the leaking of water through needle holes. All hardware parts are powder coated or plated to prevent rust. With all of these features, you're getting a well-designed top for your rig.

Fortunately, Kayline just came out with their newer Fast-trac model for the full size Blazer (76-91). They should have the Fast-trac model available for the older GM models soon. This top attaches to the vehicle using Kayline's Fast-trac system, which eliminates the use of snaps. The bed rails bolt to the body using the existing holes for the hard top. There is some drilling required to install the channel around the rear of the cab and the channel on the tailgate. This top also has zip-out side panels and a zip-out rear window.

The side panels and rear window come off in seconds. You can also roll the rear window up if you don't want to fully remove it. A handy storage bag is included for the sides and rear. Kayline tops come in many colors. Choose from black, white, blue denim, almond, charcoal, black denim, ultra white, spice, dark tan and red. We decided on the charcoal which seemed to match the best. Another option is the tinted windows. Most other companies don't offer this. We got this option to keep the sun out of our eyes and to hide any valuables from thieves.

A great feature that grew on us is the rear corner windows. This really helped on both the street and trail since it eliminated all blind spots. If you don't care for the corner windows, Kayline can custom make your top without them. Putting the Pig on a Diet
Besides beating the heat, a soft top will help trim some of the fat off the heavy Blazer. A soft top only weighs about 35lbs, and the hard top weighs over 300lbs. Remove the rear glass window and lose even more. Leaving over 300lbs. in the driveway gives you a noticeable gain in performance and climbing ability! Not to mention just being able to access your gear easily, and it's just plain more fun!

Usually with a soft top, you expect to sacrifice a significant amount of comfort to gain all of the good things that come with having a soft top. Kayline has proven that you really can have the best of both worlds: protection from the elements when the weather gets sour, and the huge 'fun factor' that goes along with a soft top. In only a couple of minutes, the Kayline top can change from fully enclosed to fully convertible.

The top can be neatly folded and the entire top folded back onto the tailgate. If you prefer an open air feel but don't want the sun beating down upon the back of your neck, the top can also be transformed into a canopy. The rear window and side windows can be removed and stored in the included vinyl bag. We really like this option since you get almost the same amount of air through the vehicle, but don't have the sun directly on you. This also works great for children that have to sit in the back on a hot day. The vinyl top is well crafted and fits the Blazer perfectly.

The vinyl has a cloth backing that makes the inside look quite nice, and helps to cut wind noise. The bows and hardware are all steel, and the rails that must be mounted to the vehicle are made of aluminum. The packaging was excellent. Everything inside the large box was wrapped and secured well with no loose parts. On the Road
These tops really are quiet going down the road. There is no flapping or snapping: in fact, the only real noise is the ratrtling of the original caged nuts that hold on the hard top because they aren't tight. Putting some bolts in them eliminates that problem. Having the rear corner windows definitely reduces blind spots and helps with parking.

The overall appearance of our rig with the Kayline top seemed to improve also! On the Trail
We had a chance to put the top to the trail test. We hit the Colorado mountains and found some narrow trails with trees galore. The sharp branches managed to scratch the paint but never harmed the top. One of the passengers in the back seat asked what material the top was made of and was amazed it never tore. The rough trails required a crawling speed so it was great to unzip the sides and get some air. Once again, the rear corner windows helped when we were backing up in a wooded area.

We gave the top a good test on the trail. Needless to say, we never had any problems with the top tearing on the thick branches. Notice the "cool" kids in the back from the shade provided by the top. Click picture for larger image

Going Topless
To remove and install the top it's a snap. For open air 'wheeling you can zip out the sides and back. This is nice since you still have the upper portion of the top providing shade. The back windows can also roll up and be secured with the supplied straps. The top easily comes down for a convertible look. Just simply unzip the sides and lay the entire top down across the back of the tailgate.

Installation
Any do-it-yourself-er can install this top in a half a day. Installation took one person about four hours, including a trip to the hardware store for more 1/8" drill bits. Tools Required
3/8 wrench
7/16 wrench
1/2" wrench or socket (to remove shell)
drill
1/8, 3/16, 3/32, 1/2 drill bits
8' tape measure
#2 phillips screwdriver
Before you begin installing the top, here are a few tips to make installation easier. This top should be installed where the temperature is above 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Below this temperature, the top may shrink, making it difficult to install. It is normal for a top to contract and wrinkle when stored in the shipping carton. The top will relax and wrinkles will disappear within a few days of installation as fabric adjusts to shape of mounting hardware.

Since you have to drill a few holes before this installation is complete, we recommend having a couple 1/8" drill bits handy. We broke a bit during this installation. When drilling through the cab the drill bits often went through the first layer of sheet metal, caught more metal inside the cab structure and broke off. One trip to the hardware store and we were back in business. Warning: Do not leave the top on your front lawn! We didn't want to lay it on the cement and accidentally scratch a window, so the front lawn seemed to be a better place for it. The Kayline top was only on the green grass for about 1 hour. The end result a day later was a large brown spot on the lawn. The top had burned the grass since it was so hot that day. Needless to say the wife was not too impressed we managed not to scratch the windows! Removing the Old Top

The hard shell is removed using ropes and eye bolts. Recently we used ratchet tie-down straps which made it a cinch. Click picture for larger image

The shell has to be removed from the Blazer. First, remove all bolts and disconnect the interior light on the drivers side. Remember to get the hidden bolts in the rear behind the interior panels (click here for pic) . Our top was removed using ropes and eyebolts then lifted to the ceiling. This method doesn't take up floor space and can be done easily by one person. 2x4 blocks of wood were used to lift the high enough to get the eyebolts and ropes attached to the shell. We later found the common ratchet straps work better than the ropes and one person can do this by himself. After the hard shell is removed, you're ready for the new top.

Step 1. Body Aluminum. Mount rear body aluminum to the top edge of body and use the supplied bolts and place them through the existing holes in top of body. Butt front body aluminum to rear body aluminum and attach to the body using the same procedure as above. Front and rear body aluminum should be in line with each other from front to rear.

The side rails are mounted using the existing factory holes. Click picture for larger image

Step 2. Tailgate Aluminum. Mount tailgate aluminum to tailgate just above rolled edge (approximately 1/4" down from top edge of tailgate). Using tailgate aluminum as a template, mark and drill 1/8" holes. Secure to tailgate with supplied sheet metal screws. Butt right side of tailgate aluminum to left side. Mark and drill holes and secure using same procedure as above.

The top requires some drilling. The tailgate channel is installed. Click picture for larger image

Step 3. Cab Aluminum. Remove rubber weatherstrip from rear of cab. Save for future use with your hard top. Place end of left cab aluminum at this point. Mark and drill 1/8" holes using cab aluminum as a template starting at the bottom and working your way to top center of cab. Install one screw at a time, keeping front of cab aluminum as far forward as possible and bending where needed to follow contour at rear of cab. Butt end of right cab aluminum to cab aluminum just installed and secure to cab using same procedure as above.

The cab aluminum is used as a template and holes are drilled around the cab. Supplied screws are then used to secure it. Click picture for larger image

Note: To prevent rattling, we reinstalled the shorter bolts that go to the hard top around the cab. Step 4. Bow Mount. Measure 34 1/2" from rear of cab and mark for position of bow mount. Place bow mount in notch in body aluminum at this point. Using bow mount as a template, mark and drill two 5/32" holes, one at the front outside of bracket and one at the rear outside of bracket. Secure with #14 x 1/2" hex head sheet metal screws. Repeat for the other side.

Holes are drilled for the bow mounts and these are mounted on the bed rails. Click picture for larger image

Step 5. Bows. Secure bow release bracket to bow mount by placing 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" hex head bolt through one side of bow mount, the bow release bracket and the other side of bow mount. Secure with 1/4- 20 lock nut. These items must pivot so do not over tighten. Repeat for other side. Place bow sleeves over rear bow halves. Slide rear bow halves together. Mount rear bow into center set of holes in bow release bracket by placing 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" hex head bolt through one side of release bracket, rear bow and then through the other side of release bracket.

Secure with 1/4-20 lock nut. Again these items must pivot so do not over tighten. Repeat for the other side. Slide bow sleeves over front bow halves. Place front bow into front of bow mount so that the large holes in bow are facing towards the front of vehicle. Place 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" hex head bolt through one side of bow mount, front bow and through other side of bow mount. Secure with 1/4- 20 lock nut. Once again these items must pivot so do not over tighten. Repeat for the other side.

Our little assistant shows off the frame. Click picture for larger image

Step 6. Horizontal Rods. Mark and drill a 1/2" hole 1" above body seam at upper rear corners of cab centered from side to side. Pull front bow forward and insert small end of horizontal rod into hole in front bow. Insert the other end into 1/2" hole just drilled.

Almost on! The sides are secured using Kaylines exclusive channel system. This was easy to install or remove. Click picture for larger image

Step 7. Installing Vinyl Top. Place convertible top vinyl side down on top of cab. Insert sewn in plastic at front of top, into slot in cab aluminum. Pull top over support bows. Snap front and rear bow flaps to their respective bows. With the rear bow in the unlocked position clip K-locks to body aluminum. Make sure that the closed end of the last K-lock fully captivates the end of the body aluminum.

Slip sewn in plastic into slot in tailgate aluminum. Zip side panels closed. Slip sewn in plastic at front of side panels into slot in cab aluminum. Zip rear curtain closed and slip sewn in plastic at bottom of rear curtain into slot in tailgate aluminum. Partially unzip each side of the rear curtain. Reach in and pull the rear bow into the locked position making sure that the K-locks and sewn in plastic remain in cab aluminum, tailgate aluminum and body aluminum. Press hook and loop together at rear of side panels.

The whole process was easier than we thought, plus the top looks great. Click picture for larger image

Note: When installing the soft top the surrounding temperature should be 70 degrees or more. If it's colder, one trick is to put a space heater in the vehicle with the top draped in place. This should get the inside of the truck warm enough which will make the vinyl top soft and pliable.

Step 8. Have Fun!Once the top is on, your installation is finished. You're ready to go out and enjoy your new soft top. If you want to reinstall your hard top, the aluminum rails will need to be removed from the body. It's a small price to pay for the fun and weather protection you get with the Kayline top.

Here's the top with the windows removed. Click picture for larger image

Other Kayline Tops 1976-1991 Blazer/Jimmy Cab Curtain/Tonneau Cover

This cab curtain/tonneau cover combination is a fast-trac design. You can use the two pieces together or either one separately. The belt rails bolt to the top of the bed of the vehicle using existing holes for the hard top. There is some drilling required to install the channel around the rear of the cab and the channel on the tailgate.

Old Syle Tops (still available)

76-91            69-72

200 E. 64th Ave Denver, CO 80221 1-800-525-8118 Local:(303) 427-4242 Fax:(303) 430-7241 www.kaylinetops.com Email:blaker@rmi.net