"The Fire In The Monster" Powerplant Chapter One, Engine Lower End Page 2

""The Fire in the Monster""

Mar. 01, 2000 By Patrick J Chicas
     With the gear sets in the second part of the puzzle is the shift forks and shafts. You must have your trusty manual to refer to in order to make sure you have the forks in the right position!

These two forks go on the longer shaft toward the rear of the engine.

Position the assembled forks and shafts with the forks riding in their proper position on the slider gears. DO NOT slide the shafts into their mounting holes yet, rather rest them on the edge away from the bearing you see in the center. Slip the thick washer on the end of the shift drum and drop it in it's bearing. Slide the shift fork shafts into position with the detent arm roller resting in the smallest and highest position (neutral). And the shift fork pins in the grooves in the drums. Attach the detent spring as shown.

   NOTE: Take your time during these steps, again it's easier than most people think. But if you miss a step you could do some serious damage to some very expensive parts.

Properly installed detent arm and spring.

Properly installed shift drum and forks. Properly installed dezert babes.
  With the transmission installed we are ready for the crank that has been on ice in Mom's freezer since yesterday getting nice and shrunk up to slide right into place... Mechanics Foreplay!    Now it's time to slap this beast together!

Carefully lay a 1/8" bead of high temp silicon RTV on all the mating surfaces of the RIGHT side case.

Pull the freshly iced crank from Mom's deep freeze.
Moron Disclaimer: Avoid the urge to stick your tongue on it.
With a couple of wood blocks underneath for support and to keep the ends of the shafts off the work bench the frozen crank will slip right in..

Gently line up the bearings with the shafts starting with the input shaft, then the crankshaft and finally the counter shaft. take EXTRA care here so you don't trash your bead of silicon. It should slip down over the frozen crank with little more than a few taps with a nylon mallet.

Place all the case screws in their holes. They should all stick up about 1/2" If they don't you screwed up. (Note: The two Phillips head screws hold the balancer seal retainer and must be tighten with your hand impact driver). Tighten the screws working out from the center. After the crankcase is together wipe the excess silicon spoogey from the outside. To get to spoogey from inside the crankcase stick the corner of a clean shop rag under the rod end and rotate the crank halfway, repeat for the other side.

If you remember that nifty trick to keep the spring loaded goodies in the shifter pawl from exploding... Take the assembly, put it over the end of the shift drum and push, voila! It will all slide neatly into place without a fuss.
Note: These little doodads WILL explode! Be careful!

Pawl properly installed. After the retainers are screwed down install the shift drum bolt and washer from the left side and carefully screw the access cover in. The cover is sealed by an "O" ring and does not have to be installed with much torque. A little blue Loc-Tite on the retainer screws. Then set them with your trusty hand impact driver.
   With the all the case screws set, now is when I generally prefer to put the engine in the frame. It's easier to handle without all the heavy gears etc. Also with the motor mounted securely it's far easier to tighten the large fasteners on the ends of the shafts. Click Here for Page Three! Click Here to go back.

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