| DIRE WARNINGS AND THINGS YOU OUGHT TO KNOW If you choose to email a question to this forum, then you must conduct yourself accordingly. Therefore, the following rules are in order: 1. Do not write your email to me IN CAPS. If you do so, I will print out your question and do terrible things to it. 2. Do not request a personal email response. Since I get thousands of questions each month, trying to answer them all would cut deeply into my leisure time, which I value more than your current state of confusion. 3. Try to spell at least in a semi-correct fashion. If you choose to mangle the English language, expect no mercy from this quarter. You might be mocked severely. 4. Do not ask for me to send you copies of my many manuals and literature. I am not in the library business, nor do I want to spend the bulk of my day at the copy machine just because you're too lazy to ask your dealer, or look around a bit. 5. Don't bother me with truly stupid questions, like how to get 50 more horsepower for a buck and a half 6. Now that you know the rules, think carefully and have at it! Oh yes … I’ll leave your email unedited, for what it’s worth. *** |
SUBJECT: Do it Yourself Workbench Tech - Build Your Own Bike Work Stand
Article URL: http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=331447
Aloha Rick,
I'm a General Contractor by profession and have been riding bikes since childhood, mostly dirt back in the 70's and 80's, (Remember the Santee Sand Pits and when you could ride all day chasing jack rabbits next to Miramar NAS?) and later in life, street bikes (after the nasty divorce and no one said I couldn't). I've gotten back into dirt riding again here in Hawaii (well... mostly rock riding) and love the three CRF's that I have out in the work shop (very reliable bikes).
My point here is that I've spent some time looking over your plywood work stand and found a few places that need some clarification. I made a 3D shop drawing using my CAD software as to get all the measurements that you specify correct. Is there supposed to be 21-1/4" of overhang at the horizontal end of the bench? If so, how about using the 12"x96" fall off (saved for "later") for a 12"x18" piece similar to "A" (without hinges), except it can be attached with a 12"x12" square piece, then cut diagonally to form two triangle gussets? Not as clean as a piece that is 18"x24", but it would help the front tire from bowing the plywood deck and use up some of the leftover plywood.
Another idea I have is a parts drawer where you have your holes cut in the sides. I can send you the shop drawings, complete with dimensions if you wish, just let me know where to send it. Thank you again for all the time, dedication and devotion that you have given to the riding community over the lifetime of your career. Because of you and your CRF project bike articles, I have returned to my roots of riding and have experienced the thrill of my youth all over again ~ except with a little more pain the next morning.
With much Aloha,
Blue.
Hilo, Hawaii
Much thanks, Blue. Your ideas on the work bench make a lot of sense and would improve the performance. Good luck with your CRF and keep the shiny side up.
***
SUBJECT: Project TTR 230 - Getting the Forks Dialed In
Article URL: http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=502260
I was wondering what the difference in length on the bikes are with the new forks? Do you have any pictures of this side by side? I just got a 2006 230 ttr and wanted to try all these mods. If i were to not do them all at once which order would you get them done and what can be done by itself without risking damaging the bike?
Kyle
Dayton, OH
Don't worry about changing the length of the bike. You have plenty of adjustment in the rear wheel axle slots. By changing the size of either sprocket, you can move the rear wheel ( and change the wheelbase ) an inch or more easily. I would definitely do the fork swap first, as the TTR230 forks are truly wretched.
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SUBJECT: RESTORING AN OLD RM250
Hi rick
I just got this 76 RM 250 from a guy in Mo, and he just gave it to me, I sold him the 82 CR 250 rolling chassis, pipe and other parts, I know about RM,s but Its missing parts like carb, pipe,stator coil, cdi unit to get it running, basically a parts
bike Is it worth it to get the parts to get it running, or just to get
something thats in better cond and then have a peace about it as far as
riding goes, I mean its kind of a challenge to get the parts but I feel
kinda worn down to look for the things I need i know theres alot of RM
stuff out there from the late 70's so im not concerned about that, I
guess Ill just get the things I need and then see if it goes after i do
all this to it, Ive seen redone ones and they arte sweet looking, I like
the late 70s KX 250s too evern more than the RM's but I guess one thing
at a time, hope your carrousing around on the back trails on that
triumph, Take It easy ok Rick, Kirk, but it just the thing of listing
things I need and then assembling it and see if it runs,
Kirk
Kansas
Actually, there are a lot of RMs around. Your best bet would be to get a 250 that has a thrashed motor and use it as a parts bike. In fact, anyone restoring an older bike should use this technique.
***
SUBJECT: MESSING WITH A TTR-125 EXHAUST
would tempering with the exaust on my ttr-125 mess up the
engine
DR Ryder
Arizona
If you do something like removing the baffle without rejetting, the bike will run lean, perhaps dangerously lean. If you work on bike like you spell, chances are you'll melt the bike into a huge glob of hot metal.
***
SUBJECT: 1980 KDX175 LEAKER
i have a 1980 kdx175 kawasaki and gas keeps leaking from the
carb. i was told that i may need a tune up but im not sure how to do
that and cant seem to find a manual ANYWHERE!!! can you help me at all
if all else fails i have an extra carb but not sure how to instal it.
this is my first dirt bike so please forgive the ignorance thank you,
sara
Paskenta, CA
You're not trying. I did a quick search on eBay Motors and found numerous KDX manuals for sale. Get a Clymer or Chilton manual and learn how to replace the float needle to stop your fuel from leaking out and destroying humanity as we know it.
***
SUBJECT: KX450F POPPING OUT OF GEAR
BIKE STARTS AND SOUNDS GREAT,NEW CLUTCH JUST PUT IN.PROBLEM IS SOMETIMES WHEN SHIFTING TO 2nd THERE IS 2 TO 3 SECOND DELAY AND THEN CATCHES,THEN POPS OUT OF GEAR, SOMETIMES IT STAYS IN SOMETIMES IT DOESNT.
KX250F
Richmond, VA
The dogs on the back side of your gears have become rounded and allow the gears to jump out of their slots when under heavy power. By the way, QUIT TYPING IN CAPS!
***
Hold on - more questions and answers loading...
Article Title: Project Yamaha TTR230 - Part 2 - Dirt bike chains and sprocketsArticle URL: http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=444151
I have 2005 ttr230 looking for 12c/s and 50 rear can't find the 12 anywhere , anybody know of a place to find one? any advice or thoughts on the gearing looking for some bottom torque?
Jpac
Clayton, NJ
Simple. Contact Sidewinder Sprockets and they'll have what you need. www.sidewindersprockets.com
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SUBJECT: KTM 520 WITH BIG BLUE FLAMES
g,day i have a ktm 520 2000 model i just changed water pump seal and now bike wont start it poping through exaust and shooting out a blue flame it was doing this before i started but it did start now it wont run at all any ideas thanks
wayne
Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Two things come to mind: A bad head gasket and your timing is grossly off. Possibly a combination of both.
***
SUBJECT: PITY THE POOR PARTS MAN
Just had one of those customers. I am (still) a small eng. mech, but still have to do the phone and/or counter. Man sends Wife in for a spark plug. I ask, "For what?" "A generator." I ask, "What engine?". Says, "Troy Bilt." But what engine is on it...Briggs, Techemseh, Honda, Kawasaki, blah...blah. "You guys have worked on it twice, now." (unless the engine model/type/code/spec number is on the old work order hard copy, I don't know) So I ask "How long ago since we worked on it?" "About 6 months".
So I go through this years hard copy under the 'R's' (last name). "Nope, nothing here." Well, maybe it was last year." Same thing. "let me call my husband." Hands me one of those postage stamp sized cell phones (I hate cell phones...don't own one) "You guys did warranty work on it." Shit, warranty hard copies are in different files. He DID say "It's a Briggs." I ask "Flathead or overhead?" "I don't know!" "Can you look?" "It's not with me." Sooooo, I figured Briggs uses 2 plugs...one for flathead (short reach) and a long reach for O.H.V. "Let me sell you both, then just bring back the incorrect one." "Okay!" ........."I also need a fuel filter." M.F.S.O.B!!! I gotta go spackle the hole in the wall from my head.
Later, Bro.
Dave Fruhling
Oregon
Good one. The life of a parts man can be brutal at times.
***
SUBJECT: 84 RM 250 TIPS
I am picking up an 84 Rm 500 to race in a vintage class. Any up grades you could recomend for this bike woul be nice. I can not convert the front brakes to disk but I would like to help the bike cornner. I am 52 years old 6 foot tall and 155-160 lbs.
Thanks Art
Washington, DC
The RM500 is a real brute and is much easier to ride with a one-tooth countershaft sprocket. Also, install Boyesen reeds and use a Metzeler tire up front.
***
SUBJECT: WHAT KIND OF KAWASKI IS IT?What is this thing, Super Hunky? I saw it on Craigslist.
Bert Carrier, Jr.
How about a 1972 Kawasaki 100 G4TR. Here are some specs on it:
Model: Kawasaki 100 G4TR
Year: 1972
Category: Enduro / offroad
Engine and transmission
Displacement:
99.00 ccm (6.04 cubic inches)
Engine type:
Single cylinder
Stroke:
2
Power:
11.50 HP (8.4 kW)) @ 8000 RPM
Torque:
11.45 Nm (1.2 kgf-m or 8.4 ft.lbs) @ 7000 RPM
Compression:
7.0:1
Bore x stroke:
49.5 x 51.8 mm (1.9 x 2.0 inches)
Fuel system:
Carburetor. Mikuni VM19 sc
Fuel control:
Rotary valves
Ignition:
Fly wheel magneto
Starter:
Kick
Cooling system:
Air
Gearbox:
10-speed
Transmission type
final drive:
Chain
Clutch:
wet plate
Physical measures
Dry weight:
84.0 kg (185.2 pounds)
Overall height:
1,062 mm (41.8 inches)
Overall length:
1,948 mm (76.7 inches)
Overall width:
840 mm (33.1 inches)
Ground clearance:
239 mm (9.4 inches)
Wheelbase:
1,270 mm (50.0 inches)
Chassis and dimensions
Rake (fork angle):
62.5°
Trail:
100 mm (3.9 inches)
Front brakes:
Expanding brake (drum brake)
Rear brakes:
Expanding brake (drum brake)
Speed and acceleration
Top speed:
107.0 km/h (66.5 mph)
Power/weight ratio:
0.1369 HP/kg
Other specifications
Fuel capacity:
9.46 liters (2.50 gallons)
Comments:
Bike has dual range gear box giving 10 gears.
***
SUBJECT: 97 RT100 RUNNING WILD
Hello.
I have a 1997 RT100 Yamaha that I just took apart,
cleaned up and put back together. I cleaned the carb, replaced the plug,
cleaned everything up and put back together. Well, now it just idles
itself up to max! When first started (cold) it idles just fine. Once it
warms up, though, it will start running itself up to max. This is
without touching the throttle. I checked the cable. it is not pinched or
in a bind. When it is idled way up, I hit the kill switch, and really
have to press on it hard to get the bike to kill. When idling normal, a
simple swith of the kill switch and it dies. The idler screw has no
effect on the idle, whatsoever. Any suggestions?
Helpinkids
Plainville, KS
It sounds like you have a serious air leak. Check the intake for cracks or poor seating. Also check the carb top.
***
SUBJECT: 75 DT175 SEARCH FOR A MANUAL
Okay here it goes, I have a 1975 DT175B and was wondering were
I could find a manual dealing with only this bike, not one thousand
other bikes. So far I can find nadda, and I need this so I can figure
out the wiring harness on it so I can put the turn signals back on
(didn't have them when I bought it). So I am going to buy a set of turn
signals but I do not know which ones are right for the bike, or if my
bike even has the flasher still. any suggestions?
Faith G.
Sherman, TX
Once again, we referred to our old Yamaha enduro specialist, Matt Cuddy. Here's what he had to say:
Anyone can call Speed & Sport and get a Yamaha shop manual for about thirty bucks, Clymer/Chilton manuals cover a lot of years for the Yamaha 175. Unless the wiring harness is torn apart, there are two wires on each side of the seat-loop of the frame that have female connectors that go to the turn signals. You can get STOCK Yamaha turn signals from just about any MC salvage place on Earth. Again, when I couldn't find an NOS Yamaha part, Speed & Sport did the trick. http://www.speedandsportinc.com/
***
SUBJECT: Article Title: Upside Down Forks - Step By Step -Project Honda CRF230F - Part 12.1
Article URL: http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=328679
Is the 20mm axle the stock axle from the 230? I have a 2008CRF230F, and I want to change the front forks. Am I able to fallow this exact post to do it? With the stock wheel, axle etc? thanks.
Brad
St. Catherines, CANADA
It all depends on which fork you choose. If you use the conventional fork from a mid-80s CR125, then you can use your stock wheel, axle and such. If you opt for a more modern upside-down fork, you'll have to go with another wheel. The series of articles tells exactly what works with what.
***
SUBJECT: MY FAN BASE WITHERS AWAY
Hey u suk and i tell u why. My minibike was runnin crapy and you gave me a smartass ansir so u can go **** yurself. So there mister no it all.
The FAST ONE
San Diego, CA
Ahh, it’s so sad when you see bright young people leave the fold. And I tried so hard, too.
***
SUBJECT: AIR COOLED KDX 200
Thanks Super Hunky.
Once more, I didn't take your advice, when will I ever learn? I got a great deal on a 1986 KDX200 (air cooled) I just couldn't turn it down, you know? I swapped a 1974 Honda XL250 for it, even up. Don't you just love Craigslist? So I am now a semi-proud KDX200 owner. I plan to give it the once-over before I take it out on the trails. I want to freshen up the top end, and make sure the suspension linkage and brakes are good to go.
On another note, I had a great weekend riding the 1985 IT200. I decided to part out a 1987 YZ250 that I've had a lot of problems with, so I did a front end swap with the IT. The forks, disc brake, and wheel are a direct bolt-in swap, and the bike handles like a champ, and I can lock up the front tire if I want to. You might want to let your readers know that this is a good way to move about 10 years forward in brake technology on the 84-85 IT200 bikes.
The IT ran pretty well, except for the fact that the carb is constantly leaking out of the overflow tube, draining my expensive premix all over creation. The float arm has grooves worn into it from where the floats contact it, and I think that it may be preventing the needle valve from closing all the way. Does this theory make sense to you?
Bert Carrier Jr.
Actually, the air cooled KDX was a good bike. They did have a small problem with the shock rubbing through the air box in some years, but they covered most of them under warranty. Keep an eye on it though. Your front end swap makes a lot sense. Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha all used KYB forks, which means that you could swap the front ends between brands. Re the float, just replace the float needle and your problem should vanish.
***
Article Title: Project Honda CRF230F: It's all about the Forks
Article URL: http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=576076
How much oil is going in the front suspensinon? 0.35 L ?
Magneum
Hofn, ICELAND
The manual calls for 12.9 US ounces per leg in the stock forks. Of course, you can put in a small amount more if you're heavier.
***
SUBJECT: MELTING 2001 RM125
Hi Rick, my son rides an '01 Rm125. It's the second RM125 we've
owned, the other was an'00 and it was stock and bullet proof. This one
has been ported by a local guy here in Washington State and runs good at
a very high rpm and it's as fast as a stock 250f. It has siezed twice in
the last four rides. The ring melts into the piston, no cylinder damage,
and the ground tip on the plug melts off...both times. We use 92 octane
pump gas. Before rebuilding again I would like to ask you for any advice
to what the problem could be. Thank you and I hope you are doing well
these days.
Ray Weber
Tacoma, WA
It sounds like you're running horribly lean. If the bike was ported and they didn't richen up the carb, that’s the problem. Thanks for the good thoughts. Yep, I'm riding again, but very, very slow.
***
SUBJECT: KAWASAKI KX100 LEAKING OIL
well im very new to mx. my first bike was a kawasaki kx100.
well when i started riding it was fine but then i pull it up the garage
and i see oil all over my chain and sprocket and its coming from the
exhaust. i stopped putting in 32:1 and was at 40:1 but its still doing
it. do u think its the piston and rings going bad. and when i cut off
the gas line its stops. and also its not comming out of the tip its
coming out of the part were it welted on there. please help thank you
Corydagangsta
Green Bank, WV
Ah yes, Mister Gangsta. Since your email is rather garbled and confusing, I can only guess at your problem. I assume that your leak on the chain area comes from a section where the pipe joins. The fact that your bike didn't leak when you first got it could mean that the previous owner simply cleaned the area up and when you rode it for the day, the spooge started dribbling from the pipe. You could be jetted way too rich, or the top end could be worn out. Take the bike to a shop and have them do a compression check. And please don't tell them your "cool" nick-name.
***
That's right - there's more! Wait for Page 3...
Article Title: Project Honda CRF230F - Part 1
Article URL: http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=380749
i have a 2008 crf230f, and im gona do what you did in part one. which is take the baffle out and remove restrictive inlet out from the top of the airbox. i have a question for jetting my bike. i have a k&N airfilter so im not sure if i need to still use the 132 main jet like you did or use the 135 main jet since i have a K&N airfilter. can you help me out ?
Hondaman
Thomasville, NC
If you do any of the breathing mods, absolutely go with the richer jetting to play it safe.
***
SUBJECT: KAWASAKI KX85 RAN BONE DRY
out on 200 kx 85 and rad run dry and the bike wont start could
you help me
Wont Start
Belfast, IRELAND
Think long and hard on this, Mister Start. When your radiator ran dry, the engine no longer had the ability to cool itself. Chances are that you melted parts in the top end and turned the piston into an ashtray.
***
SUBJECT: REPLACING OLD TX125 FORKS
Sir,
Thanks for your time to read this question from a newbie
like me. I am reviving my father's Old and rusted Suzuki TS-125. The
front fork shocks are really useless now because of rust. I am looking
for 2nd hand replacements because they are cheaper than brand new ones.
Some offer me with Yamaha DT and Kawasaki KMX front shocks. But my
problem is their diameters. Will the DT or KMX fit to my TS-125 triple
clamp? What is the diameter of ts-125 front (fork) shocks? and what is
for DT and KMX. Thanks alot Sir. This is my first time to write a letter
to a site like this.. because I am really looking for an answer from a
professional like you.
Mike Rupnix
Muntinlupa City, PHILIPPINES
Measure the fork tube diameter of any KYB fork of the same diameter and it should slide right into the triple clamps. The stock TS 125 fork diameter is 30 millimeters. A DT is a Yamaha enduro bike of that period. There is no such thing as a KMX. KYB forks are found on Suzukis, Yamahas and Kawasakis of that era.
***
SUBJECT: WIDE RATIO MINI GEARBOX?
Is it possible to install a wider-ratio gearset in the
transmission of a Yamaha (or any brand, really) small-displacement MX
bike (for example, a YZ85 or CR85). I ask this because I like the small
size and good power-to-weight ratio of these bikes, but the close-ratio
trans is murder anywhere but the track. I want a more "enduro"-like feel
to it, where I'm not revving the guts out of the engine to get up to
50-60 mph. Any other suggestions about this are always welcome. Thanks
in advance.
Joachim
Lipetsk, RUSSIA
I'm not aware of any wide ratio gearboxes for the 80-85 MX bikes. All you can do it go up one tooth on the countershaft sprocket. This will give you a greater top speed and take away a bit of the hit down low.
***
SHAMELESS PLUGS:
BLACKWATER 100
Welcome to a celebration of The Toughest Race In America, the notorious Blackwater 100. Held every year in Davis, West Virginia, the race was designed by Dave Coombs to be a real test of survival. While the race is no more, the tales of this legendary race seem to grow with each passing year.
What we have here, is a collection of hundreds photos, stories and copies of some of the actual programs. These images tell you more about the nature of the grueling course than the many tales that circulate.
Included in this great collection are stories about the race by Rick Sieman, who competed in this event numerous times. You’ll also find a story and test on the legendary 760 Maico, the first bike ridden by Rick in the Blackwater race.
The Blackwater 100 is a two CD set. On Disc 1, you’ll experience a slide show with some classic bluegrass country music to accompany the images. Just put the disc in your computer, go to MY COMPUTER and hit the BLACKWATER 100 button on your screen. Make sure you turn your sound on for Disc 1.
On Disc 2, you’ll find the same images, but these are in Picassa 3 format and literally hundreds of photos are there. This means that you can stop any image, or copy what’s on the screen, make it bigger (or smaller) and print out anything you see. Just go to the bottom of the screen and a very simple menu is there.
Cost for the CD set is $20 plus $5 for Priority Rush mail. Paypal, checks or money orders OK. Paypal address is: superhunky@gmail.com Mailing address:
Rick Sieman
36607 W. Costa Blanca Dr.
Maricopa, AZ
85238
Go to www.superhunky.com for more info on other products, including posters, CDs and the Monkey Butt book Email: www.superhunky@gmail.com