From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 31 95 Aug EDT
 1903 
Date: 31 Aug 95 03:56:03 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Tires for Range Rovers?
> share regarding alternate tires for the Range Rover, particularly
> wider tires than the 205.

 ...
> My requirement is for driving in *very* deep, soft sand.  The 205's
> work OK however I have been in some scary situations with them even

Rick, I have done extensive experimenting with tires on a RR plus
raising the beast. The big problem with Range Rovers, especially the
more recent models, are the very tight, snug wheelarches which are
supposed to give this car its elegant sedan-like appearance while at the
same time allowing for sufficient axle and wheel articulation offroad.
The result is a construction which severely limits the size and type
of tyres you can use without major modifications to suspension and  body.

I tried out a variety of springs, shocks, propshaft extensions, and
6 or 7 different types of tires; some worked, others didn't, and some caused
outright damage. Based on my experiences, the conclusions are:
If you want to fit anything alse than the standard 205/75 tires and at
the same time do *not* want to cut away parts of the wheel arches you must
at the very least fit the strongest, highest stock springs available for
the RR, being the front diesel springs and the rear HD english police
spec. springs (don't have the parts numbers at hand but I can give them
to you if you're really interested). The spoiler, if fitted, must either
be removed or 1 1/2" must be cut away at the inner ends. Having done this,
the maximum you can fit is 225/75 or, at the very most, 235/75. With an
additional minor modification, i.e. raising the rear suspension by an
additional inch via a distance piece between spring and top spring mount,
and bending around the sharp inner rear wheelarch edge, you can also
squeeze in 235/85 (equivalent to 7.50x16).  But that's where it ends.  And
in all cases you will have to adjust and limit steering lock so the wheels
won't brush against the radius arms on full lock.  Anything wider/bigger
*will cause damage* when the axles go on full articulation offroad.  Don't
be fooled by Range Rover yuppie cruisers with big fat monster tires.  The
most articulation those cars ever get is running up a curb, and even that
is done very carefully.
Since you want to drive in deep sand you definitely don't want an aggressive
tread. A used, 3/4 bald, wide tire at minimum inflation pressure would
actually be ideal. The Michelin XS are excellent but very expensive, and
useless on tarmac (loud and fast-wearing, wander). BFG All-Terrains are
a good compromise. There have been extensive tire discussions on the list,
maybe someone has a thread archived or FAQed and can forward it - I don't.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

From Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Thu Aug 31 9:36:29 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 9:36:29 BST
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Not specifically relaed to Rovers, but...
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> to me that this would be a good one... 
>   Pardon the digression, Alan
Dead easy! You dont even have to go to a scrapyard.You just find
someone that makes number plates,tell 'em what you want and hand
over the readies.Depends on the style though.Before(I think)'73,
correct me if I'm wrong folks,the plates were silver letters on
a black ground.Or white letters on a black ground.These can still
be had for vehicles of the appropriate age.As soon as I've got some
spare cash(I wish!)mine will have such a set.Later ones are black
letters on a white ground at the front,black letters on a yellow
ground at the rear.And there is square or oblong.Series Rovers
with headlights in the rad grille panel would typically have
square plates front and rear,the white or silver on black variety,
the front one screwed to one front wing under the sidelights,the
rear one under the rear lights.Late 11A and 111,with headlights
in the wings,like my 11A,have an oblong one fastened above the
front bumper,centrally,and a square one under the rear lights.
Take your pick!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

From Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Thu Aug 31 09:45:19 1995 
Date:          Thu, 31 Aug 1995 09:45:19 +0000
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject:       Re: UK registrations
On 30 Aug 95, Duncan Brown wrote:

>     Anyway, with the very orderly, if somewhat confusing, rules for
>     British plates, what can we tell about the Lotus 7 driven by Patrick
>     McGoohan as "The Prisoner"?  It was KAR 120C
Area: AT - no idea
year: C - see earlier post... (mid 60's)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

From Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Thu Aug 31 10:15:36 1995 
Date:          Thu, 31 Aug 1995 10:15:36 +0000
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject:       Re: Right-of-ways
On 30 Aug 95, Alexander P. Grice wrote:

> While us folks in the US have witnessed the reduction of off-roading
> opportunities through closure of national forest trails, I never realized
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> the front door, through the kitchen and out the back door.  Apparently,
> *going around* the house was not even considered.  Sheesh....
Ah, the problems of "rights of way" and "Tresspass".

Under Scottish law, there is no "right of way", nor is there "tresspass" - 
if you insist on travelling some route, you must make reparation for 
"damaged caused".  There would be no right of way through a house and the 
walkers (each of them!) would have to pay for repairs to the home-owners.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

From Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Thu Aug 31 11:26:56 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 11:26:56 BST
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Uncle Joe Strikes Again!
Now *there's* a subject heading to strike fear into the
stoutest heart!And you can all come back!Cowards!
The problem is as follows:
Two vehicles,my '70 88" diesel,and a friends '67 88"
petrol,mine with headlamps in wings,his with them in
the proper place.Both have the same fault,developed
independantly(or perhaps not,they have been parked
next to each other).The indicator warning lamp(the
little green one housed in the switch unit with the
rubber tyred cancelling wheel in it)is on all the time.
Mine glows faintly,his is at full brilliance.Turn off
the electrics,light goes out.Use the indicators,lamp
goes out,then flashes normally.
Remove the earth from the switch unit,lamp goes out,
as would be expected,since the circuit has been broken.
Looking at the circuit diagram(Yes,I did,just goes to
show how desperate we are getting),the only place the
lamp can get a feed from is the flasher unit itself.
Does anyone know whether the flasher unit has a
separate contact for the warning lamp,which may not
be fully opening "at rest" so to speak.Or indeed,
before we both start ripping our respective dash panels
apart,has anyone any other bright ideas?
I might add,mine has been this way for about a year,and
that we are talking home market vehicles here.The NADA
circuit diagram definitely *does* show a separate feed
for the warning light.The home market one doesnt.
Just shows a single wire from the flasher unit O/P
to the switch.
Any contributions gratefully received.Particularly
in my mates case,since he's getting a bit bored
driving round with a bright green light glaring
evilly at him all the time.His wife says it makes
him look like th Thing from Twenty Thousand Fathoms,
and its frightening the dog.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

From Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Thu Aug 31 12:36:06 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 12:36:06 +0100 (BST)
From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: UK Reg plates
The advantage of having a Q-plate is that your vehicle is exempt from
the new MOT emissions tests, or at least it is in our local garage.
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

From azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Thu Aug 31 12:41:24 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 12:41:24 UNDEFINED
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject:  Tyres and Rims
>> Tyres on the 16" rims should always be fitted with tubes. The rim is not
> >designed for a tubeless tyre and doesn't have the bead retainer that 
stops
> >you peeling the tyre from the rim under heavy side loads. With radials be 

>    I just bought 5 brand-new 16" Land Rover Genuine wheels (well, OK,
>  Dunlop makes 'em, but they came with a Land Rover piece of cardboard
>    >stuck in the center!)  I was told they were intended for use with
>   tubeless tires.  Does your statement above apply only to the
>  original (1960's/70's) wheels, or also the brand new ones?

My 1984  90 is on the original 16 inch rims. It has 3 tubes on, but the tyre 
place put a tubeless on the 4th corner before I checked. It works fine.

From Haas <marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk> Thu Aug 31 14:13:01 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 14:13:01 +0000 (BST)
From: Haas <marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk>
Subject: Welding Land Rover chassis...
I have just been told by a chap who runs an independent Land Rover repair business in SE London that Land Rover chassis are constructed from a high-carbon steel which becomes brittle when arc-welded, and that I should therefore use a MIG when welding my new front chassis legs on.  A friend who has professional welding training agrees that if the chasssis is made of such steel, the advice given is sound.

The question I have is: is this true?  Is my  LR chassis made from high-carbon steel (it's a 1970 LWB)?  If so, is it possible to buy suitable rods which would allow arc-welding without the aforementioned embrittlement?

I ask because I don't particularly want to buy a MIG at the moment, hiring is too much bother (arranging transport, planning exactly when to do it...and then it rains all day!) and is relatively poor value for money.

Thanks for any advice.

Marcus.
(1970 109 2.25 petrol Station Wagon, now severely denuded...)

From Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Thu Aug 31 15:01:16 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 15:01:16 BST
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown (fwd)
Forwarded message:
>From Mailer-Daemon Thu Aug 31 14:57 BST 1995
From ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Thu Aug 31 9:57:34 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 9:57:34 EDT
From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Subject: Re: Transmission Brake Rehab
I. Harper asks how to remove the transmission brake hub...

I have just completed this operation.  If your brake is as well lubricated as 
mine was, it should slide right off.  Sounds to me like something is binding, 
or the proper fasteners haven't been removed.  Don't worry about losing the 
bolts into the transfer case.  They are retained by a flange on the driving 
member.  By the way, don't lose the all-metal lock nuts.  They are a weird 
size - 5/16 20 or 22 pitch.  Right in between a course and fine thread.  If 
all six bolts have been removed and it still won't come off, try this:

Remove the 4 U-joint keeper bolts and loosen the prop shaft.  These bolts are 
retained as well, as you shall soon see.  Remove the castellated nut from the 
output shaft.  Now the whole shooting match will slide right off.  You can 
then un-contort yourself and crawl out from under your truck and figger out 
why the dang thing won't come apart while your body is in a normal position 
and the light is better.  

The next thing you should do is pry out the old output shaft seal, take it 
down to the local bearing store, and buy a replacement.  This rascal is 
undoubtedly why the transmission brake is shot anyway.  Check the wearing 
surface on the shaft.  If there is a groove you can catch your fingernail in, 
get a speedy sleeve and fit it.  Bearing store will have this, too.  Take the 
driving member with you to ensure right size is acquired.  I found it very 
useful to remove the backing plate and completely degrease at this point.  
Remove and clean mechanism of adjuster and expander.  Lightly lube with grease 
before refitting.  If you disassemble the oil catcher from the inside of the 
backing plate, note you will need a new gasket.  I made my own, and now have 
enough gasket material left over to last 5 or 10 years, acquired at a cost of 
$1.50.  You'll also need a new felt washer for the output shaft.  Good idea to 
keep some of those things laying around.  Degrease the speedometer housing on 
the transfer box while you're at it.  

NOTE THIS: I was most surprised to find that there is a groove machined in the 
bottom of the housing designed to drain oil away from the oil catcher via the 
OUTSIDE of the backing plate.  (Pretty swift, huh?)  Mine was completely 
gunked up with dirt/oil/mud that it heretofore had gone unnoticed, and 
blocked.  You can bet I will make sure that sucker remains open from now on.

To quote Mr. Haynes.  "Reassembly is the reverse of removal."  Factory manual 
sez don't tighten up adjuster bolts right away.  turn adjuster so that shoes 
are firmly against hub and are centered.  Then tighten nuts.  Back off on 
adjuster a couple of clicks, and the hub should turn.  Lifting one wheel 
slightly off of the ground help in the adjustment process.  Or leave the prop 
shaft unhooked until brake is adjusted.  Just don't try it parked on a hill.  
Torque castellated nut to 85 ft/lb.

Good luck.

Scott Fugate
1970 IIA
1989 Range Rover

BT

From Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Thu Aug 31 08:30:00 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 08:30:00 DST
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: EZ Bleed and Number Plates
As posted previously, I used a modified reservior cap and small pump to 
pressurise the reservior which then allows you to go from wheel to wheel and 
bleed until fluid runs clear. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the 
reservior or you'll be starting over with a system full of fresh air.  A 
really handy pump is the Mityvac kit which can be used  to suck or blow and 
has multiple uses outlined in the manual that comes with it. eg tune ups, 
brake servos, etc

If you are lucky maybe some of our British subscribers could send you old 
plates. An alternative is to purchase a new set from any one of various 
suppliers, see UK auto mags. This way you could even have a vanity plate!

Trevor Easton

From Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com> Thu Aug 31 7:51:21 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 7:51:21 PDT
From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Oil issues
 Since filling sumps with oil is a major passtime for landrover owners.
I was wondering if any one had some easy/clean method for defying
gravity, and pumping oil into our beloved Land-Rovers.
My current method is to use a cheap plastic pump which tends to
blow the filler hose off, and takes a lot of arm work.

Any one out ther have an easier way ???

Thanks
Russ

From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Thu Aug 31 08:00:30 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 08:00:30 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Discovery A/C... Dual air.
FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Discovery A/C... Dual air.
Some have complained about the Discovery's A/C being "wimpy". Well, it's not
the best, (I live in Arizona where it gets to over 120 degrees F, 45
Celcius?) I had dual air, and noticed that with the rear A/C turned on, the
air blowing out of the front vents was not as cold as when the rear A/C was
turned off.

Just an observation...

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

From Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Thu Aug 31 16:51:14 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 16:51:14 BST
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Welding LR chassis...
I've drilled, cut and welded a few LR chassis now...

It certainly worked like mild steel.

Either that or *very* special high-carbon steel, that is stronger
than mild steel but retaining the same working properties!  
(I wish).

Attempt at explanation follows;  correct if wrong, anyone!

When welding anything you create a heat-effected region that will be
stronger but more brittle than the surrounding metal.  The more carbon
there is in the steel, the more this effect shows itself.
The heat-effected region causes stresses that can lead to premature
failure of the component, usually in the heat-effected but otherwise
unaltered material on either side of the weld itself...

Welding up high-carbon steel by any method is usually followed by
heat-treatment to relieve the residual stresses and return the metal
to its prior state with the carbon finely and evenly distributed 
within the iron.

I'm not sure how using MIG welding will alter this although MIG tends 
to heat the base metal less than stick welding, and is (depending on 
the operator) usually less likely to leave slag inclusions in the
weld.  If I wanted to weld hi-carbon steel without heat treatment, 
I'd consider using oxy-acetylene and letting it cool slowly.  Perhaps 
this is the wrong approach?

In summary, tho'

If your Landrover chassis isn't mild steel, I'd be surprised.
Even if it isn't, there must be half a million out there with
major chassis work undertaken with stick arc welding machines.
And mild steel rods.

Perhaps Landrover will confirm the chassis material?

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Thu Aug 31 10:52:45 1995 
Date:          Thu, 31 Aug 1995 10:52:45 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Oil issues
 Russell Burns asks:
>  Since filling sumps with oil is a major passtime for landrover owners.
> I was wondering if any one had some easy/clean method for defying
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> blow the filler hose off, and takes a lot of arm work.
> Any one out ther have an easier way ???

Back when I did more automotive work than I do now, I got a couple of 
pumps for lube oil. One from Sears the other I don't remember where, 
but Central Tractor sells them I know. Also most auto parts houses 
can get them. They were about $20 US and fit on a 5gal pail of lube. 
I used them mostly for gear oil. They have a metal cover that replaces 
the pail lid. A extendable center tube fits down into the pail and 
has a manualy operated pump on the top. A hose about 5 feet long ends 
 in a u-shaped metal tube that fits nicely in filler holes. These will also fit 30 gal 
drums if you have *really* bad leaks.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Thu Aug 31 11:28:30 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 11:28:30 EST
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Subject: Discovery Rear A/C & Taillights
Just replaced the RH taillight assy on 95 Discovery.  It was 
necessary to undo the upper hinge points of the jumpseat -- 
no big deal, but your access to change a burnt out bulb is 
the same.  Seems like the rear A/C would make changing a 
bulb in the LH side even worse.  If the rear A/C is nothing 
more than some ductwork and a fan (no compressor), and since 
it forces LH jumpseat out into the cargo area several 
inches, I'm glad I didn't elect to get the rear A/C.

Hank

From NADdMD@aol.com Thu Aug 31 12:17:29 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 12:17:29 -0400
From: NADdMD@aol.com
Subject: Dings in a new Galvinized Frame: Follow-up
Bother!
This is the second attempt at this note.  The first was eaten by the AOL mail
server.  No back up copy.

1.  I'd like to thank everyone who sent me input.  I learned a great deal
about frame evaluation.

2.  Last night I spent a fair amount of time measuring all the factory specs
on the frame, including diagonals.  In addition, I ran the frame with a
framing square looking for possible problems not detected by measurement
alone.  Today, I called my local garage (they work on ALL our vechicles from
the Ford tractor to the 1963 Dodge horse van to a 1986 Volkswagen GTI, to our
1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee.  They are presently doing some work on my 67 88"
SIIa.  They say "It's sorta like them old Jeeps we used ta see.  It's got
them front axles like Toyota uses.") I HIGHLY recommend them not only for
LR's but any other vehicle with a four stroke engine. (For anyone in the
Baltimore Region who wants their name/number, just e-mail me).  Their
opinion: " If it measures out to spec and is square, AND the damage is out at
the end of the support AND there's no visible damage to the galvinized
coating, don't worry about it."  In their experience, when done correctly,
galvinized heavy gauge steel can be pounded nearly to a 45 degree angle
without cracking the coating.  They also felt that in more cases than not,
minor damage was to be expected on chasses that are shipped.

3.  As for Atlantic British, I was quite satisfied with their response to
this whole situation.  They suggested without prompting that I check the
squareness and dimentsions of the frame.  Further, they faxed me the factory
specs.  They were not opposed at all to return of the frame or to the
possibility of replacement of outriggers which were damage.  All they asked
was to check the frame first.  In addition, they provided this all in writing
which they also faxed to me.  Again, I found their customer service very
acceptable.  

4.  AB imports the frame from England, it came with my brake drum shipment.

5.  Boring MD is in northern Baltimore County, up where foxhunting is avidly
pursued.

Again, I'd like to thank everyone for their comments, they're much
appreciated.
Look for my future postings as my restoration progresses.

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring MD (Baltimore County) USA
NADdMD@aol.com
(410)429-4964

From jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben) Thu Aug 31 12:52:07 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 12:52:07 EDT
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: importing from UK - info in Bristol Needed.  
Hello, 

I am importing a vehicle from UK to US.   I am getting it at Avon LandRovers
in Bristol.  A recent post on this group led to some unfavorable comments
about the Avon integrity.
? Do you have any experience with them?

Do you know any LR fans in Bristol, who might be willing to take a quick
look (if nothing else, to confirm that all work was done as described)?

I am getting the AA or RAC to give me a report, can you recommend a better/
cheaper alternative?

Any help is greatly appreciated, as I need to resolve this one way or the
other in the next couple of days.

Jan
jib@big.att.com
(908)872-9641 

PS. Ian, thanks for your advice.

From vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Thu Aug 31 19:38:16 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 19:38:16 +0200
From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte)
Subject: Life-time Tool Warranty
Hello fellow readers,

Though the following does not relate specifically to British cars, you may
find it amusing to read.

In 1970 I bought my first car, a rather rusty small vehicle of French origin,
a Renault R4 of 1963.
Almost everything needed attention or replacement, including most
of the bodywork. 
Mechanical work was also involved, especially on the brakes and the suspension.
It was already clear to me, then (at the age of 17 - a year before being able
to attend driving lessons) that working on cars would probably become a 
lifetime commitment. So, I started buying  tools whenever they were required.

One of the tools I bought then was an open  10 x 11 mm ring spanner by Belzer. 
You need such a special tool to unscrew the brake pipe from a brake cylinder
(there simply is no other way to do the job properly). 

A few weeks ago I helped one of my colleagues with a brake job on his 
Nissan Vanette. I saw him put this same spanner on a brake line nipple - 
and one of the jaws broke off.
The same guy told me then that there was a lifetime warranty on Belzer, so, 
just to see what would happen, I went back to the store where I bought it 
about 25 years ago.
(No, no, I could _not_ find the bill any more...).

They told me that, in principle, this lifetime warranty thing was true,
but they could'nt help me because they since had changed to selling a different
manufacturers' products.

So I decided to mail the tool directly to Belzer in Germany to see if, and how, 
they would react. This was about four weeks ago.

Much to my surprise, I received a telefax from them today, a very nice letter 
stating that they had investigated my claim. 
(Without formally confirming or denying the warranty claim - they just didn't
mention it) they are going to send me a new one, free of charge...
.. and hoping that il will serve me equally well over a similar period of
time...

Thanks, Belzer!

Bert Palte
Soest, The Netherlands

(Yes, of course, I have another one, in 3/8"  x 7/16" size,  for my British
cars).

(Disclaimer: I have no personal interests in B.)

From Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com> Thu Aug 31 11:38:38 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 11:38:38 MDT
From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: '94 D90 Limited...?
Anthony Verriello <verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com> asks:

>Can anyone tell me if there is a way to identify a 94 D90
>originally set up as a limited production black/leather or
>one thats been painted and had leather installed?

Not exactly, but...

When I first started looking at the '94 D90 that I eventually
bought, the salesman told me it was a "limited", but he never
mentioned it again after that. Mine is optioned as follows:

  Alloy wheels (obviously)
  Hardtop (probably not part of the "limited" package)
  Rear safari cage
  Beluga Black Paint
  Leather front and rear seats
  Spare tire cover
  Aluminum fender protection plates
  Chrome "A-frame" front bumper guard w/2 Hella-500 lights

Mine is #1930, which is only 28 away from a '95 I've seen mentioned here
in the digest (jpappa), so mine was definitely near the end of the '94
production run.  Until you (Anthony Verriello) mentioned it, I'd never
heard anybody else talk of the "limited" D90, other than the one
reference by the salesman, and we all know they'll say anything...

How many were made?  Were they the last '94s made?  Does it sound like I
have one?  If so, so what?

My "limited" didn't cost extra.  In fact, because LRNA was trying to get
rid of remaining '94s to make room for the '95s, I got $$$$ off the
sticker; drove away for just under $30K !

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin

From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> 31 95 Aug EDT
 1914 
Date: 31 Aug 95 14:06:33 EDT
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Re: Uncle Joe Strikes Again!
1. Replace the flasher unit. You probably are getting some
current feedback through its heating coil or a funky contact.

2. Re: The Thing From 20,000 Fathoms:

  Don't all LR owners look like that?

  Tongue in cheek... -Alan

From paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Thu Aug 31 07:43:52 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 07:43:52 +1000
From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash)
Subject: Re: Funny Questions...
>      I have a question from David Bobeck..."Does anyone have any secrets 
>      for keeping there Rover from tipping over it's "High-Lift" jack when 
>      lifting from the front bumper?"

A couple of large-ish rocks placed in front of (or behind) the rear
wheels will do the trick.  Because the handbrake acts on the prop
shaft, the rear wheels are free to turn in opposite directions, 
which is what happens when the jack topples.  Chock the wheels and
it won't topple.

The toppling action is a feature, not a bug, BTW.  It is useful for
getting a stuck vehicle out of deep ruts (lift & topple at front and
rear).

	paul
--
   Paul Nash <paul@frcs.alt.za>       turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy
       14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA

From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> 31 95 Aug EDT
 1914 
Date: 31 Aug 95 14:13:28 EDT
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Re: Welding Land Rover chassis...
Re: MIG vs. stick welding:

Rover chassis are relatively common mild steel. The rule I've always
followed with this stuff is to hit it with a magnet. If it sticks, stick-weld is
OK. If not, then find out what it is and go from there.

Personally, I have a MIG I use as a wire-feed (gasless) welder for
chassis repairs. Hasn't boken yet... -Alan

From "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Thu Aug 31 14:56:44 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 14:56:44 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: company's address (British Leyland)
This came from a friend at work- DB
Thought you might find all this interesting, particularly
          the WWW address at bottom.  (Forwarded from
          STUMPERS-LIST).
                                   --BillC

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

In response to Mai Po~ldaas' question:

< we have a patron who is interested of address of British Leyland
< Public Limited Company. Can you somebody help, please?

Rose-Ann Movsovic responds:

< To cut a very long story short (which would involve the entire history of
< the ailing British car industry), suffice it to say that the company which
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
< is owned by British Aerospace, unlike most other "British" car companies
< which are owned by US or French companies)

< Rover Group Ltd
< International House
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
< B37 7HQ
< UK

Since I am the resident Rover W*mb*t, this calls for an update correction. 

While British Aerospace acquired the Rover Group in 1988, they sold it 
last year to BMW.  Honda, which had a 40% interest in the company and 
marketed Land Rover Discovery in Japan under their badge, was also 
interested in taking over the Rover Group, but was so miffed by BMW's 
successful bid that they sold all their interest.

Land Rover, the 4WD division of the Rover Group, has been since its 
founding in 1948, immensely successful (more so today than ever), and its 
profits have often been used to prop up the ailing car division.

The Rover Group has an official home page at http://www.rover.co.uk
but so far it consists only of engineering employment opportunities.
The Personnel Dept address:
 Gaydon Test Centre
 Banbury Road
 Lghthorne
 Warwickshire CV35 ORG

Land Rover Ltd is at Lode Lane, Solihull, Warwickshire.  This was the site
of the original Rover car factory, but has for some time been devoted
solely to Land Rover. 

Some other web addresses:
http://sun1.bham.ac.uk/D.Hejcman.mes/ROVER/rover.html
(an unofficial Rover Group page, showing locations of all Rover plants 
and operations).

http://www.du.edu/~tomills/landrover.html
(links to all known Land Rover and Rover Group web sites, and a history 
of Land Rover)

http://www.du.edu/~tomills/lrtfm.html
(a picture of me and my Land Rover)

T.(eutonic) F.(ourwheeler) Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

From Bennett Leeds <bennett@mv.us.adobe.com> Thu Aug 31 12:33:55 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 12:33:55 PDT
From: Bennett Leeds <bennett@mv.us.adobe.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery Questions (was: Newbie Questions)
I am inches away from purchasing a Discovery. I've got two questions:

1) The dealer is offerring a 100K mile/7 year bumper to bumper  
extended warranty from GE, with a $50 deductible. He says it's $1500,  
but naturally I expect that reflects at least a 100%, if not more,  
markup. How much do think this is worth?

2) I drive dark moutain raods at night regularly, and so want to put  
"fog" lamps on. To do this on a '95 I either need to get a belly pan  
for $150 or get a brush bar and attach them to that. Any thoughts?  
The brush bar is $575 from the parts department - don't know what the  
dealer wants for it. Someone mentioned the '96s will have a fog lamp  
option. Considering the price involved to get the lights should I  
wait for the '96s?

Also, I've got dealer invoice on the car and factory options from  
Edmunds, but not on the dealer added things like brush bars, etc. If  
you know them and can share them with me, I'd appreciate it much.

Thanks!
- Bennett Leeds
bennett@mv.us.adobe.com

From kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood) Thu Aug 31 13:16:14 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 13:16:14 -0700
From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Subject: Re: Discovery Questions (was: Newbie Questions)
On Aug 31, 12:33pm, Bennett Leeds wrote:
> Subject: Re: Discovery Questions (was: Newbie Questions)
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> option. Considering the price involved to get the lights should I
> wait for the '96s?

Perhaps you saw my "testimony" about the brush bar vs deer. As with most
anything posted these days, I received a fair amount of flack from an offroad
list for being totally insensitive to the plight of deer (and who cares about
my ongoing living family). I would suggest getting one. Besides, it lends a
certain style to the already cool car.

> Also, I've got dealer invoice on the car and factory options from
> Edmunds, but not on the dealer added things like brush bars, etc. If
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> bennett@mv.us.adobe.com
>-- End of excerpt from Bennett Leeds

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

From lenagham@bachman.com Thu Aug 31 17:05:50 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 17:05:50 EST
From: lenagham@bachman.com
Subject: Aftermarket EFI info
From bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Thu Aug 31 18:00:57 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 18:00:57 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: D90 oil change
Sounds like a silly post huh? Well, today was the first time I changed the
oil on my D90 myself. What a mess!! When I took out the drain plug the oil
shot over 3 feet ouyt of the whole! It bounced off my drivers side tire and
made quite a mess. Is there some trick I have missed? I used to be an
auto-mechanic about 10 years ago and I have changed alot of oil. I can't do
another oil change like this one. I live in a condo and making a mess in the
parking lot is a big no no. I cleaned it all up with kitty litter. It also
tool 7 qts of oil. My book said 6. Any way I would appreciate any help.
                                        
                                   -=>Brian<=-

From GARCAY@aol.com Thu Aug 31 18:58:05 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 18:58:05 -0400
From: GARCAY@aol.com
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Hello All !

I have a friend who is currently rebuilding a Rover and is looking for :
   INDIVIDUAL REAR JUMP SEATS (FOUR) S11-S111 88 
   STATION WAGON (not bench seats)

Anyone who has a set of four for sale or trade will be greatly received !!!
If you know where a set can be purchased for not too much money, I would
greatly appreciate knowing where.

Thanks!!

George Arcay (for Greg Long)
Alexandria, Va.

From "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu> Thu Aug 31 16:43:02 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 16:43:02 -0500
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Unisyn dual carb tool FS
Thanks to all who have helped me clean my shelves of old tools. But  
there at the back is a Unisyn, designed for dual Solexes or SU's or  
whatever where you need to read and match the vacuum on two separate  
throats. This is a real piece of 60's-70's automotive history and I  
have tuned many a MG sprite, Porsche, dual Weber and Solex set up  
with it. Heavy die casting with a rubber seal on a plate about 2  
inches in dia. which sits on the top of carb. A float in a glass tube  
reads the vac and you go from one carb to the other. I will take  
25.00 and include shipping on it. 

	The piston ring compressor seemes still to be for sale too. 

		John Friedman 

From TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Fri Sep 1 07:24:18 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 07:24:18 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Child restraints
Anyone had any experience fitting child restraints into the back seat of 
a LWB, particularly 110 County?

Thanks.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

From "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu> Thu Aug 31 20:13:18 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 20:13:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: 109 stuff.
	Does anyone in New England know of or have a pair of door posts 
for a 109 station wagon - they are the only things we're really lacking 
for the resto project that starts next week (plus and engine, though) - 
the "t" posts, by the way.  Again, it will be for sale or could be built 
to one's specification...

Frank Twarog
Burlington, VT

From "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu> Thu Aug 31 16:43:02 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 16:43:02 -0500
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Unisyn dual carb tool FS
Thanks to all who have helped me clean my shelves of old tools. But  
there at the back is a Unisyn, designed for dual Solexes or SU's or  
whatever where you need to read and match the vacuum on two separate  
throats. This is a real piece of 60's-70's automotive history and I  
have tuned many a MG sprite, Porsche, dual Weber and Solex set up  
with it. Heavy die casting with a rubber seal on a plate about 2  
inches in dia. which sits on the top of carb. A float in a glass tube  
reads the vac and you go from one carb to the other. I will take  
25.00 and include shipping on it. 

	The piston ring compressor seemes still to be for sale too. 

		John Friedman 

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu Aug 31 17:13:50 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 17:13:50 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Discovery Questions
 Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com> writes:

>Perhaps you saw my "testimony" about the brush bar vs deer. As with most
 anything posted these days, I received a fair amount of flack from an offroad
 list for being totally insensitive to the plight of deer (and who cares about
 my ongoing living family). I would suggest getting one.

 Now Clayton, certainly I didn't want to hurt your feelings by offering
 another perspective to your 'testimony'.  We all like you and your's very
 much and are glad you're safe from the attack of that mean deer!  (I already
 said I was 'Just Jealous', didn't I?)

 While you're outfitting your Disco with protective devices giving you the
 confidence to continue speeding around Georgetown country roads Sunday
 mornings, consider that you may have been just lucky *this time*, nothing
 more!  Next time, while turning to your wife at 60 mph, it may be a child
 on a bike caught in your bull bar; or maybe just another deer which next
 time jumps on your bonnet and comes through the windscreen.  Forgive me, but
 somehow it makes me ill to think of all these nice vehicles needing armour
 to manage highway obstacles.  I always thought of Rovers as slow and easy
 going trucks, recognizing obstacles ahead and effecting a defensive maneuver
 like slowing down and stopping, but then that's just me!

 It's not the bar that's alarming, it's the change in driver attitude that's
 frightening.  I'm not concerned about a few deer, there seems to be an
 overpopulation of them in California anyway (they were probably teenages
 anyway crowding the bank daring each other to jump... you know the type! :)

>Besides, it lends a certain style to the already cool car.

 How can you tell how cool the car is after attaching the bull bar?  All of
 these type of off-highway vehicles look more alike by adding bull bars (as
 do passenger vehicles with bras!).  Are we now supposed to recognize
 vehicles by the type of bull bar they have on?  One thing that always
 impressed me by Range Rovers was how civilized they looked when cleaned up
 and driven in the city, certainly not by carrying around the iron gate to
 the pasture on the front bumper.

 Happy holidays (for the US!  Others, well...),

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

From JCassidyiv@aol.com Thu Aug 31 22:07:07 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 22:07:07 -0400
From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Subject: Oiling Frames
I know someone posted a message regarding spraying "bar and chain" chainsaw
oil onto their frame.  What kind of sprayer are you using-can you use just a
simple plastic garden-type pressure sprayer.  We're hurtling into fall and
I'd like to spray the frame soon-anything for a little extra protection.
Cheers,  John Cassidy

From jpappa01@interserv.com Thu Aug 31 20:53:18 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 20:53:18 PDT
From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Subject: Re: 	Misc.
- A lot on D90 hood latches. Similar to hoopla on D110 hood latches. Yes, one 
problem is convoluted path that cable takes. Main problem is internal wire 
inside outer jacket is some sort of mild steel which, yes, *CORRODES!* Just 
received a bulletin from LRNA that newest cable assy's feature *STAINLESS* 
inner wire in addition to `95 models being easier to pull anyway... These 
should be easy to retro to `94 models and if you're in for warranty 
replacement be sure to ask for the stainless one...

- Have driven three Grand Cherokees which were traded with LRMW lately - and 
couldn't believe how loose (all were `93 models - two Laredos and one Limited 
- all V8s) and tinny they felt. All rattled, creaked and groaned. The highest 
mileage one was 41,000. The lowest? 650 miles!!! On a GC Limited Orvis 
edition. Traded on a Disco. The wife absolutely despised the Jeep - they had 
originally traded their `90 Rangey on the Orvis!! So it was no surprise that 
they came back to auntie Rover...

- Latest Land Rover Gear item is a really neat Gerber multi-purpose tool which 
comes in a slick black ballistic nylon sheath with LR logo sewn-in. This is a 
cool tool! At all LR Centres...

cheerz
Jim - Rover and out

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C Diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #1958

From iharper@afm.org Fri Sep 01 00:20:27 1995 
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 95 00:20:27 EST
From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Zenith Jets
Further to the discussion about Zenith Carbs and altitude changes, what 
are the correct jets for different altitudes?  (i.e. at sea level, 1000ft, 
2000ft, 3000 etc.)  Is the main jet the only one that needs to be changed 
or should all be changed?

Since I now understand that you cannot change the mixture in a Zenith 
without changing the jets, is it possible, while travelling through 
mountainous regions to temporarily compensate for the richer condition of 
the higher altitude?  Should you jet it for the higher altitude and then 
just put the choke on as you descend??

Ian Harper, Stratford, Ontario.... iharper@afm.org

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

From Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Thu Aug 31 21:27:59 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 21:27:59 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Plasti-Dip
> I'm giving some serious thought to trying an appliance epoxy on mine,
> just to givi it a stable coating, thn blowing a few dollars on a leather
> cover... yuppie wimp that I am...<grin>

I'm going to go for one of those thick rubber covers with all the bumps on 
it.  As I get older, gripping the thin steering wheel causes some serious 
stiffness and pain in my fingers, and I think the resulting thickness will be 
pleasing.  The other advantage is that they just slip on -- no lacing 
required.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

From Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Thu Aug 31 21:28:04 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 21:28:04 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Tyres and tubes
>     I just bought 5 brand-new 16" Land Rover GenuineFrom RICKCRIDER@aol.com Fri Sep 1 03:55:05 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 03:55:05 -0400
From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Subject: Rovers and Ham (radio, that is)
CQ, CQ, CQ.......Calling all Hams............

Have noticed amateur radio call signs attached to the signatures of several
of us on the list.   Probably a common thread in there somewhere since most
ham types are generally the gadget / tool/ 'by God I'll fix it myself' types
  ..................

Would like to see posted responses from any and all ham radio operators on
the list......perhaps we can share common problems and solutions concerning
our toys......such as mounting,  RFI,  antennas,  road noise,  etc.

I've designed and fabricated a *really nice*  overhead console.....takes the
place of the sunvisor gizmo in the series Rovers.......looks and works
great.....and holds loads of radio gear and speakers.    

Let's share our knowledge.......
Cordially:    (and 73)
Rick Crider   KD4FXA

Monroe  NC.......USA
(704) 289-6303
' 66 SIIA   109"    (Hugo)........      and for sale.............
' 73 SIII     88"     (Jesse)
' 88  Range  Rover
............and way too many Alfa Romeos.........

From RICKCRIDER@aol.com Fri Sep 1 04:31:25 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 04:31:25 -0400
From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Subject: ...."SHOQ's" .....
Hi All:..............
"SHOQ's"  =  'Stupid Hopeful Owners Questions'

Posted a 'For Sale'  ad (for my 109" SIIa) in the local 'Truck Trader'
tabloid......one of those you see on the racks at most all (USA) convenience
stores......paid the extra $ for a front cover spot.
Boy........was I overrun with calls.......No one has written a check yet
though.   Some of the more amusing questions I've posted below.   The
response in '( )' are not necessarily my *actual* responses to said
questions.........

*Is it like the one in the Born Free movie?  (I've never seen Born Free)
*Is it like the one in the 'The Specialist' movie?  (Yes, but sans the
dynamite)
*Is it automatic?   (Huh?)
*Does it have air conditioning?  (Are you kidding?)
*Why is there a tire on the hood?  (It's a 'bonnet', and that's where it
belongs.)
*Who was the original owner?  (Hell, I was nine years old in 1966.....)
*Is it Four Wheel Drive?   (Thanks for calling.....bye now.)
*Would it be a good college car for my son? (Yes, if he's in Sarajevo.....)
*Is it easy to repair?  (Yes, if you're good with pliers and coathangers....)
*Is it a kit car?   (Well.......you could call it that.........)
*Are parts readily available?   (Does the UPS truck pass your house?)

Yes folks....these were real questions......not made up merely for your
amusement.  In all fairness though.....I did have some very legitimate
calls.....some from previous LRO's who knew exactly what to ask.

See Ya......
Rick Crider   KD4FXA
<rickcrider@aol.com>

From sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Fri Sep 1 11:18:23 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 11:18:23 BST
From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: Films
Hi, I was watching Carry On Camping the other night and I spotted a series 1.
I think it was a long wheel base with a soft top (removed apart from the
sticks).  It was used to carry the campers off somewhere.

Another one to add to the list!

Steve Reddock.  Lightweight V6

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Fri Sep 1 06:33:35 1995 
Date:          Fri, 1 Sep 1995 06:33:35 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Misc.
>  Jim <jpappa01@interserv.com> writes:
>  Latest Land Rover Gear item is a really neat Gerber multi-purpose tool which 
>  comes in a slick black ballistic nylon sheath with LR logo sewn-in. This is a 
>  cool tool! At all LR Centres...

Gee, I wonder if you can get just the pouch. I bought a Leatherman 
(which the Gerber is a *quality* knockoff of). I do a lot of work on 
computers and the Leatherman has pliers cloeser to needle a nose 
style. The Gerber seems like it might be better in you LR kit though, 
 it seems a bit heftier. But I wouldn't mine having the sheath you mention.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Fri Sep 1 06:40:23 1995 
Date:          Fri, 1 Sep 1995 06:40:23 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Unisyn dual carb tool FS
John Friedman writes:
> Thanks to all who have helped me clean my shelves of old tools. But  
> there at the back is a Unisyn, designed for dual Solexes or SU's or  
> whatever where you need to read and match the vacuum on two separate  
> throats. This is a real piece of 60's-70's automotive history and I  
Snip,

[Unasked for testimonial]
I have one of these tools and used it on my BMW. I can highly 
recommend them.. I'm keeping it on the theory that someday I'm going to 
get another Beemer.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Fri Sep 1 06:45:13 1995 
Date:          Fri, 1 Sep 1995 06:45:13 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Oiling Frames
John Cassidy asks:
> I know someone posted a message regarding spraying "bar and chain" chainsaw
> oil onto their frame.  What kind of sprayer are you using-can you use just a
> simple plastic garden-type pressure sprayer. 
Snip

John,
I posted that. I haven't done it myself. There were places  in VT 
where I lived that did it. I imagine it would be worth a try. As 
someone mentioned you may have to enlarge the holes somewhat. If you 
heat the oil some it might noe be as much of a problem.
You will want to drill holes in the door channels and other places to 
get at hiiden areas. You can get plastic plugs (like the ones used 
on the rear cross member) to put in the holes.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 01 95 Sep EDT
 1908 
Date: 01 Sep 95 08:18:13 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: D90 oil change
*WHOooosh*...  splat!

> oil on my D90 myself. What a mess!! When I took out the drain plug the oil
> shot over 3 feet ouyt of the whole! It bounced off my drivers side tire and
> made quite a mess. Is there some trick I have missed? I used to be an

And I thought my old 109 left big spots  :-)

Did you already have the oil filler cap off? If you leave it *on* , the
oil usually blubs out gradually and doesn't come shooting out like that.
Additionally blocking the crankcase ventilation (not forgetting to unblock
it afterwards) also tends to slow down the rush of oil. Another method
altogether is to get (or make) yourself a simple device to suck most of
the oil out via the dipstick tube before removing the drain plug. For this
to work the oil has to be relatively hot, or you'll be there a long while.

Better luck next time!

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Fri Sep 01 08:50:22 1995 
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 95 08:50:22 EST
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Subject: Draining Oil
Has anyone heard of some sort of spigot that replaces drain 
plugs?  This might be the way to go, since copper crush 
washers should really only be used once.  (I've haven't 
changed mine yet through 1st 3 changes, but will next time!) 
 I think the spigot thing may have been offered by one of 
the quicky-lube type shops.

Hank

From "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Fri Sep 1 14:23:02 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 14:23:02 +0100
From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: Re: importing from UK - info in Bristol Needed.
Hi Jan,
       Avon landrovers is about 10 miles from my house, although I
know nothing about them and have never visited their site.  I first
saw their adverts for vehicles a couple of years ago - had they been
around longer I would probably have heard.  More recently I have noted
that they are selling parts too.  As far as I know it's the usual
farmer's field full of LR's for sale.

You're very brave buying across the pond - Let me know if I can help
you.  I know my way around leafers and coilers, but don't offer any
guarantees!  The AA/RAC inspections are well regarded over here.
--
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Best Regards,
Steve.

Dr Steve Methley	       *****     *****
HP Labs, Filton Road, 	       ***  /_  __ ***   email:	  sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com
Bristol, BS12 6QZ, UK	       **  / / /_/  **   or	  sgm@hpl.hp.co.uk
direct line: +44 117 922 8751  ***    /    ***   fax: 	  +44 117 922 9286
switchboard: +44 117 979 9910  *****     *****   or		      8920

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Fri Sep 1 08:54:08 1995 
Date:          Fri, 1 Sep 1995 08:54:08 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Draining Oil
AHnk writes:
> Has anyone heard of some sort of spigot that replaces drain 
> plugs?  
Snip

Sounds dangerous if you go off road.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From ASFCO@aol.com Fri Sep 1 09:56:59 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 09:56:59 -0400
From: ASFCO@aol.com
Subject: Re: Amateur Radio Callsigns
Being rather new to the digest I have noticed several HAM RADIO CALLSIGNS
 which have appeared in various sigs.  I would be interested to find out just
how many land-Rover owners are hams as well, besides it will give me practice
in getting e-mail and downloading info.
                                           Thanks         73
               Steve Bradke     WA2GMC             72 ser lll 88
                                                       

From Michael Turpin <ccaamet@ucl.ac.uk> Fri Sep 01 15:11:23 1995 
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 1995 15:11:23 +0100
From: Michael Turpin <ccaamet@ucl.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: importing from UK - info in Bristol Needed.
Jan,

Last year I bought a '84 110 2.5D Station Wagon from Avon Land rovers.

(Yes, Steve, it is the usual farmer's field full of LRs with a couple of
barns for workshops).

When I first looked at the vehicle I pointed out a few minor defects which
they said that they would correct.  The only fix that I didn't particularly
like was the patching of the holes in the bottom of the front doors.  They
welded a couple of plates straight over the holes and these rub on the
bottom of the door frame.

When I picked the LR up, one of the rear bench seat cushions was missing so
they said that they'd get a new one and send it on.  I think it took around
two months and a lot of phone calls before I received one. 

Also, they offered to underseal the vehicle for me (for a small fee) which I
agreed to.  It must have taken someone all of ten minutes to slap a coat of
underseal on.  Quite a lot of it is already peeling away!
(Preparation?...what's that!)

The car was to have a new MOT certificate when I picked it up, but they
hadn't had time to get it tested before I arrived.  So, I went along to the
testing centre with Barry from Avons.  No probs. apart from the emissions
test which it eventually passed with the air filter removed!

Having said this, I bought my 110 for around =A31000 less than I could have
from any local dealer, which made it roughly the same as a private sale but
with a year's warranty.  Also, they didn't try to hide anything, they even
put the car up on their ramps so I could take a better look at the chassis.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Mike

____________________________________________________________________________

                        Michael Turpin
                        Network Operations Section,
                        Network Group,
                        Information Systems Division,
                        Kathleen Lonsdale Building,
                        University College London,
                        Gower Street,
                        WC1E 6BT.

E-Mail: m.turpin@ucl.ac.uk                            Tel: 0171-380-7828

From ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Fri Sep 1 10:59:29 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 10:59:29 EDT
From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Subject: Insurance for U.S. Series Rovers
Gang,

The article on insurance in the September LRO Magazine has reminded me to  get 
around to a subject I've been meaning to do, but have neglected.  That is - 
How do you U.S. citizens insure your Series Rovers?  I currently am carrying 
liability only on mine, but I wish to perhaps add collision and comprehensive. 
 Problem is, how much is a 1970 British vehicle worth?  All I know is that, 
after three and a half years worth of "rolling restoration" mine is worth more 
than the $1,700.00 I paid for it.  How much?  I have saved my receipts, but I 
believe the old boy is worth more than the sum of his parts.  I have 
considered getting an appraisal, but where do I find a certified vehicle 
appraiser who knows anything about old Land Rovers?  There sure aren't any in 
these parts (American Iron predominant here), and I can't afford to pay for 
any of the hired gun appraisers who advertise in Hemming's to come to town.  
"Vintage Car" policies require you to drive your vehicle only for shows and 
parades, etc.  My truck still works for a living, albeit on weekends only.

How have other folks dealt with this conundrum?  From reading the LRO article, 
I'm at least glad we don't have to deal with the crap our fellow enthusiasts 
in the UK have to put up with.  Reporting "performance" mods such as roof 
racks and new wheels - Sheesh! 

Have a happy Labor Day weekend.  Dove hunting season starts in Tennessee in a 
little over an hour.  See y'all Tuesday!

Scott Fugate
1970 IIA 88
1989 RR

BT

From jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Fri Sep 1 08:55:36 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 08:55:36 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Bouncing Deer and Bars
You wrote: 
 

  Clayton Kirkwood <kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com  writes:
 
        Perhaps you saw my "testimony" about the brush bar vs deer. snip

 MC: Now Clayton, certainly I didn't want to hurt your feelings by offering
  another perspective to your 'testimony'.  

  snip

  MC: Next time, while turning to your wife at 60 mph, it may be (snip) another   
   deer which ...jumps on your bonnet and comes through the windscreen.  
 
Michael, not to hurt your feelings but I thought deer bounced off windscreens :)  
So doesn't this call for a windscreen area roll bar with a heavy gauge wire mesh 
grill? :)
 
  MG:It's not the bar that's alarming, it's the change in driver attitude that's
  frightening. 

This out to bring out the best in all those others out there with bars :)

       CK: Besides, it lends a certain style to the already cool car.
 
   MC: How can you tell how cool the car is after attaching the bull bar? 

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900

I would have thought an architect very familiar with the prinicples of style, 
design and appearance :)

Cheers,

Jeremy

P.S. I've taken your attitude to heart and made my bar deer friendly by welding 
diamond grate across the bars.  That way it can bounce off and its head won't get 
stuck and go through the radiator :)

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Sep 01 09:08:16 1995 
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 1995 09:08:16 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Bull Bars and Deer and Whatever else :-)
 Hey Tiffany,

>Hey..before you get angry at me I'm not having a go at you.  ...I'd
 choose a bull-bar any day.

>Sorry If I've offended you in anyway I just thought you might like to hear
 someone else's point of view.  When we're driving we watch our speed and we
 try to avoid obstacles at all costs but I'd still prefer to have some
 protection on my vehicle - just incase.

 No offence to be taken here :)  You've made my point "watch our speed and
 try to avoid obstacles at all costs".  (I should never have picked up this
 thread. Problem is, I just don't know when to keep my mouth shut!)

 Glad to see you back on the net.  With so little traffic from AU/SA we'd
 thought roo's buggered the whole bloody lot!

 PS-  Like reading your travel logs, and finding the places on the map.

 Michael Carradine         ?           '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                _\    __      http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                          [__[__[__]
 _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Sep 01 09:25:53 1995 
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 1995 09:25:53 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Insurance for U.S. Series Rovers
>"Vintage Car" policies require you to drive your vehicle only for shows and 
>parades, etc.  My truck still works for a living, albeit on weekends only.

 An insurance broker at a booth at the local British Car meet in Hayward, CA
 a few months ago provided policies such as the following:
    --  comprehensive and liability insurance
    --  driving not more than 2,500 miles per year
    --  no driving to work
    --  vehicle to be garaged (carported?)
    --  agreed-to replacement value (he took photos)
 For a $7,000 vehicle value, using 'A' rated (or better) insurance cmpanies,
 the annual premium was quoted at $180.  [For more information contact Barlow
 Insurance Brokerage, 1515 Tanglewood Drive, Corona, CA 91720, (800) 484-9880]

 Michael Carradine         ?           '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                _\    __      http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                          [__[__[__]
 _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________

From Bennett Leeds <bennett@mv.us.adobe.com> Fri Sep 1 09:46:15 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 09:46:15 PDT
From: Bennett Leeds <bennett@mv.us.adobe.com>
Subject: Re: Brush/Bull guard testimony
I've got my own deer/vehicle story.

I was driving home late from work one night, doing about 30 MPH up a  
fairly twisty mountain road cut into a hillside, so there was a steep  
slope up at my left and a steep dropoff on my right. All of a sudden  
I see the eye of a deer coming down the hillside (my left) at quite a  
clip. He was very close when I first saw him - maybe 5-10 feet. He  
was going too fast down the hillside to stop before the road.

In a split second I just knew we were going to collide - that there  
was no way for me to avoid it. I had this same feeling 15 years ago  
when I was in an accident. Just before the impact you know you're  
toast.

I hit the brakes and turned the car to the right, hoping that he'd  
turn also so that we'd bump side to side which would be better for  
him - he might not be seriously hurt. 

Well, my car stops and there's no bump, no deer, just a rustle in the  
bushes to my right. 

The inescapable conclusion is that he jumped over my car! I've since  
found out that deer can jump 5 to 6 feet (hence some people put dual  
6 foot fences around their vegetable gardens). He might have been  
able to slow enough to go behind my car, but I strongly doubt it. I  
was slowing down by braking, which would make that harder.

I was driving a little RX-7, so jumping over isn't such a big deal.  
Had I been in a Discovery (which is where I'd rather have been), I  
wonder if it would have caught the roof rack, tipping me over. I hope  
to never find out.

BTW, if you see one deer, even off in the distance, keep alert as  
they usually travel in packs and they don't look before crossing.

- Bennett Leeds
bennett@mv.us.adobe.com

From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Fri Sep 01 12:54:35 1995 
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 95 12:54:35 EST
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Subject: Insuring Series Vehs
Added my '60 109 SW to my USAA insurance when bought in 
Florida about 7 years ago.  Since I was Navy, I called back 
to Nevada DMV to get new plates for her from that state, 
where I had my "residence of record."  No inspections, and 
the prettiest plates in the USofA.  USAA simply asks what 
value you place on the veh, presumably that's what they pay 
if totaled, or upper limit of repair.  Of course, the higher 
value you give, the higher the premiums.  Other questions 
you have to answer include miles driven per year, with 
USAA's lower limit being 2000.  So I said $12,000 veh, 2000 
miles per year.  That's pretty close to my "investment" to 
date, and I don't think I've gone over 2k per year, except 
maybe the year I moved to DC area. 

Became a civilian in Maryland, and by law had to get their 
license, registration and plates.  Based on infrequent 
driving (for which I kept a log several years), vehicle age, 
and likely difficulty passing the Maryland veh inspection, 
registered her as "Historic."  No inspections in that or 
"Street Rod" category in Maryland, the caveat being only 
"occasional" driving other than events, etc.  Have kept same 
$12k/2k miles on insurance ever since.  I figure the $12k 
may be a fairly safe replacement value, as I would 
DEFINITELY seek out to reacquire as similar a veh as 
possible should my L-R get really squashed.  Also, I get her 
onto the roads only a few times per month -- enough to 
splash the oil around for mechanical health reasons.  So I 
feel pretty legal.

A guy once left a card on the windshield as an appraiser 
(still have it if anyone wants name. etc), but I simply save 
all the stuff RN and AB send about vehs for sale to make 
sure my declared USAA value will continue to cover possible 
replacement.  That may be the easiest, broadest, most 
reasonable "proof" of value that may be out there.  My 
household insurance is for "replacement," not for loss, so I 
guess I have a personnal philosophy at work.

Regards,
Hank

From skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore) Fri Sep 1 13:06:51 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 13:06:51 -0400
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Subject: Re: D90 oil change
>Sounds like a silly post huh? Well, today was the first time I changed the
oil on my D90 myself. What a mess!!....snip
>Any way I would appreciate any help.
                                        
Yeah, Brian-

I marked a milestone this past oil change - nothing spilled!

I use a tub that's about 1.5ft high, slide it under the oil pan, but 
offcenter, realizing that the oil does in fact pour out quite fast when the 
plug is first removed.
I make sure that I angle my hand/wrist in such a way as to hold onto the drain 
plug from the top side, not from the bottom or the outside surfaces.  This way 
my hand doesn't get covered with oil.
When it it done draining, I replace the old crush ring, and screw the drain 
plug back in.
BTW, 6 quarts without the filter change, 7 with.

Bill Skidmore

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Sep 01 10:17:20 1995 
Date: Fri, 01 Sep 1995 10:17:20 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Bouncing Deer and Bars
 Jeremy Bartlett <jjbpears@ix.netcom.com> writes:

> CK: Besides, it lends a certain style to the already cool car.
  MC: How can you tell how cool the car is after attaching the bull bar? 
  JB: I would have thought an architect very familiar with the prinicples of
      style, design and appearance :)

 Exactly, you just can't see the bloody Disco (or whatever) through the bars!
  
> JB: P.S. I've taken your attitude to heart and made my bar deer friendly by
      welding diamond grate across the bars.  That way it can bounce off and
      its head won't get stuck and go through the radiator :)

 You better be at Palo Alto so that I can inspect the modifications!  Actually,
 I liked your earlier suggestion better (sorry I deleted it) --the one about
 sloping the bar to throw the game into the back and preping it for the freezer.
 If you had many litte horizontal triangular bars in front, the game could be
 neatly sliced.  No need to remove the game, by the time you drive home through
 the valley it'd be jerky!  Maybe we can all get bull-bar licenses from Fish &
 Game, and chase the buggers through fields and woods ...after all, that's what
 4x4's are for.  Ah yes.. the return of metal grilles, deer-bar recipes, etc.

 Clayton, Jeremy, we can work out the deatils over a brew at Palo Alto!  (I
 understand they are awarding little deer stick-ons to attach to the deer-bars,
 or the fenders of Rovers without bars.)  I'm slow, but I'm coming around!  qB)

 Michael "PC? NOT!" Carradine     ?        '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                       _\    __   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                                 [__[__[__]
 __________________________=Oo+__(o)___(o)____________________________________

From grea@net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) Fri Sep 1 11:06:30 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 11:06:30 PDT
From: grea@net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.))
Subject: Gone Roving.
I dont know if this will make it to the list as I've just unsubscibed.
Before I go Roving for the next couple of week, I have one trivial question
that must be cleared up. Jeff Gauvin writes that one of the options 
of his D90 is "Beluga Black Paint".
Seems to me that "Beluga" is Russian for "White (Belo of Byelo) Whale"
What does this colour "White Whale Black" paint look like? 
Is this an oxymoron equivelent to the "Dodge Ram"?
G.

From dimitry@uask4it-101.Eng.Sun.COM (Dimitry Struve) Fri Sep 1 13:01:01 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 13:01:01 +0800
From: dimitry@uask4it-101.Eng.Sun.COM (Dimitry Struve)
Subject: Unisyn dual carb tool FS
I still have my Unisyn bouncing around in my toolbox. I am sure
it hasn't been used for 15 years. But I intend to keep it forever.
Perhaps I'll polish it and put it on the mantlepiece.

-Dimitry

From JHobbs151@aol.com Fri Sep 1 15:59:10 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 15:59:10 -0400
From: JHobbs151@aol.com
Subject: LRO
I need help in finding a few good sources for purchasing a Land Rover. I have
just recently become interested in the Land Rovers and wish to purchase an
older one in the next few months. I can count on one "finger" how many LR I
can remember seeing in my neck of the woods (Tennessee). From what little I
have read about them on the WWW and here, they seem to be a very rugged and
dependable on-road/off-road vehicle. How expensive are they to maintain and
what does the average 2-door model cost on the used market. I am not even
familiar with models, etc. to be more specific. I have been pricing used
Jeeps for several months but have decided too many people drive them and
well, I like the look of the Land Rover that I saw much better. Any
help/assistance would be greatly appreciated. Also, if someone can give me
some book titles on LRs that I can further "wet my appetite on" I would be
totally thrilled.

Jay Hobbs
jhobbs151@aol.com
73023.2374@compuserve.com

From jpappa01@interserv.com Fri Sep 1 19:53:18 1995 
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 19:53:18 PDT
From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Subject: Re: 	Misc.
- The Black 1994 D90 *WAS* a *limited* model - only 100 were made and were 
introduced in the Summer of 1994. They had grey leather seats - the first D90 
to offer the rear bench seat - also in leather. They were the only 100 `94s 
with black paint. A few of them came through with port-installed A/C and 
fender protection plates. It also introduced the stainless A-frame bull bar 
and matching SS running boards. Remember that black was not a regular 
production code until `95 - which replaced the Arles Blue color of the `94 
models. Regular `95 MY black D90s have same equipment as every other D90...

- The builders plate number between 19XX and the first `95's - also 19XX. The 
units are basically built in production batches... My `95 D90 is one of the 
earliest ones - an ex-LRNA factory D90. Latest build number at LRMW is 28XX. 
Latest models feature steering wheel chest pads with LR logo embossed into 
it...

- To the fellow discussing the 7/100 extended warranty for $1500 and saying 
that the *markup* is probably 100% if not more... Absolutely false. I can tell 
you with 100% certainty that the dealer cost of this warranty is well over 
$1000... The perception is still widespread that the dealer markup on 
everything is a zillion percent. It isn't. The profit margin in most models of 
Land Rover is approx. ten percent. Parts/accessories about 15-20%. Aftersale 
products such as extended warranties, etc. about 20 - 25%. $1500 for 7/100,000 
of peace of mind is cheap money in my book. One visit to the shop for a major 
uncovered repair will vaporize the cost of an ITT/GE extended warranty. They 
also give you the luxury of putting the extra coverage on at any time within 
the original factory warranty... 

cheerz
Jim - Rover and out...

`67 2A 88 5.0L Hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L Hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C Diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 #457/500
`95 D90 #1958
`

From JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com Thu Aug 31 16:19:00 1995 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 16:19:00 -0400
From: JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com
Subject: D-90 warranty issues
Greetings,

I thought I would write to compare notes on some warranty
issues.

I just had the D-90 in for it's 7500 mi. service.  ($232.31)
 I asked the local dealer to look at the A/C, misc. oil
leaks, and zippers on the top (tilt?).  When I returned to
pay settle the bill, the service writer informed me that the
techs had "tightened the oil pan bolts, replaced the seal on
the tranny drain plug, and charged the A/C."  (about now,
you are asking yourself, So what's the problem?)  The writer
also informed me that a local upholstery shop had installed
ONE zipper in the top.  (ahh, you say)  He finished by
saying that the truck was washed and ready to go.

By the time I came back to pick up the truck that evening,
this zipper thing had started to bother me.  While in the
lot, noticing that the truck had not been washed, I happened
across my salesman.  I asked him to check on Land-Rover's
policy on zippers for the D-90.  He informed me that their
policy is to replace the offending zipper, and ONLY the
offending zipper.  My question is, of course, is this what
other dealers are doing?

Sincerely,

p***ed off, or p***ed on?

Jim Cirbus
94 D-90
Sunbury, OH

From w1eox@ix.netcom.com (Yves Feder) Sat Sep 02 06:28:25 1995 
Date: Sat, 02 Sep 1995 06:28:25 -0400
From: w1eox@ix.netcom.com (Yves Feder)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
 
>Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 03:55:05 -0400
>Subject: Rovers and Ham (radio, that is)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
>Cordially:    (and 73)
>Rick Crider   KD4FXA
 
Hi Rick!!! I'm Old Buzzard W1EOX (lic. since 1953) - owned several 88's and
now with a 1963 109 truck (nice picture of it btw in the early summer issue
of "Aluminum Workhorse".

I basically have 'im outfitted as a test bed for various radio projects,
although the mainstay rigs are an ex state police lowband 90W radio with
remote control head (set up on 52.49 and 52.525, very active 6m stuff here
in S/NEng) and an Alinco 45w two meter rig. All kinds of other stuff is in
and out of the Beastie from time to time - collapsible poles for VHF
mountaintopping with various yagis, AM gear (various old military rigs) and
6 permanently mounted antennas HF through 220/440.

The usual comments from the gang at the Killingworth dump (excuse me, the
"recycling center/compactor site") are along the lines of "hey, whaddya pick
up with all those antennas? Russia?!!!" to which of course the answer is, ayuh!

Enjoyed your comments about the 109 ad too!!! (especially your replies)

73
Yves (Al) W1EOX
ex K2CUI / K1TJP
Yves A. (Al "Al") Feder
w1eox@ix.netcom.com
Home of "Tiny Radio Theatre"(tm) AND
Eric, the Mad Megalomaniac Bull Cavy

From Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Sat Sep 2 21:27:57 1995 
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 21:27:57 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: LR books
Jay Hobbs:  I have a few L-R book titles in
            http://www.cs.monash.edu.au.~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Books/index.shtml

---

Does anyone have recommendations re forward-facing fold-up seats to
mount in the rear of a SIII LWB HT ?

There are various ones advertised in LROI.

Does anyone down-under know of a local product
(I want seat-belts and RTA approval).

Lloyd
Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA
tel: 61 3 9905 5205      fax: 61 3 9905 5146      email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au

From Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com> 02 95 Sep EDT
 1918 
Date: 02 Sep 95 18:40:49 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com>
Subject: FOR SALE Bellview (Land Rover) winch 
FOR SALE, 

BELLVIEW (LAND ROVER) electric winch. Pull rating 8,000lbs All cables etc. Comes
mounted on original bumper. Original optional equipment as on eraly series
vehicles.

Asking $150, plus shipping, approx. $40

Mark  603-357-3401

From LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil> Sat Sep 2 18:49:14 1995 
Date:     Sat, 2 Sep 95 18:49:14 EDT (2249Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  SIII / Thermostat.....
Rick,

Just went thru a temp question with my '72 Petrol SWB.  The temp "gauge" 
started creeping up into the borderline red zone.  Flushed the system, changed 
the thermostat, had the radiator flow tested, still slowly creeping up.  
Changed the temp sending unit, ordered a new temp gauge, all the time, the 
return hose water temp 160-170 degrees F.  Finally got ready to change the temp
head, jockeyed with the voltage stabilizer on the back of the speedo, and now 
it reads "correctly", (or at least what it did when I bought it) at the upper 
edge of the letter "N".

I still keep my eye on it, check the temp with a meat thermometer chucked into 
the filler neck once a week or so, esp. with the high temps we have been having
here in VA.  So, it sounds like you are doing the right things.  But I might 
suggest investing $4.00 +/- in a thermometer to measure the temp of the water 
at the return (top) hose to be on the safe side.

Regards,

Larry

From JDolan2109@aol.com Sat Sep 2 19:27:58 1995 
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 19:27:58 -0400
From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Subject: Stranded by AOL
Thanx to wonderful AOL, I'm getting my mail as unreadable, 'Mime' encoded
files. Everything!!! My computer, like my '61 LR is a *bit* dated. Just like
most people when it comes to vehicles, they (AOL) say replace-upgrade. The
first thing I'll replace is them. I'm only able to decipher bits of the list
(as data forks), as I can't support their conversion software. My only
recourse might be to leave the list, find a new provider, and try again. 
I did have a nice vacation to Colorado. 4600 miles and 13 states. Me and
Binky, the Airedale dog. Didn't go to Breckenridge. Did go to Sturgis, SD
(Harleys).
Someone asked about spraying bar and chain oil on the chassis. My suggestion
is (was): 'cut' the oil with a _slight_ bit of diesel fuel (not much,
experiment to obtain optimum (heaviest possible) viscosity). This will enable
the oil to spray more easily and penetrate more extensively. The diesel will
act as a 'carrier' and dissipate. Try using one of those 'plunger' charging
type sprayers. If there's an old orchard or farm or such around you'd
probably find an old one there. They tended to erode the orifice of the
nozzle after extended use (making it actually better for chassis oiling!),
and sometimes are 'laid aside' but not discarded. If you use an old sprayer,
clean it well, as it might have been last used for DDT or such!
Hope to see folks at Stowe, stop by if you're in the neighborhood.
See 'ya on the old road...
Jim  '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's   (thinktank?)
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!
P.S. Anyone with any knowledge/experience with older Mac's (sys 6.7 = max)
and decoding Mime documents, please email direct, if inclined. 

From LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil> Sat Sep 2 19:23:16 1995 
Date:     Sat, 2 Sep 95 19:23:16 EDT (2323Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  Insurance for U.S. Series Rovers
Scott,

Have to agree with Hank on USAA.  I originally financed with them.  They had to
go thru about two or three books to find out what a Series Land Rover was, but
once they did, no questions as to value or insurability.  I have $100
deductable for liability and comprehensive.  The cost is relative to any other
vehicle I have insured with them in the last 15+ years.  Best of all, all over
the phone!

I guess the best way to go is per a later posting (apologize for not getting
the name), work with an agent you feel comfortable with who respects what we
have "invested" in.

BTW, I am using my '72 SWB as a daily driver and USAA is insuring it as such.

Regards,

Larry

From Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca> Sat Sep 2 18:21:48 1995 
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 18:21:48 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Amateur Radio Callsigns (and more brake questions)
My callsign:

VE6JRJ - Calgary, Alberta, Canada
63 Series IIa 88" SW

Also:
  Does anybody know what the brake line flares are like in older LR's? I 
have to replace the pipe between the brake master and the stop 
light/splitter mounted on the right hand frame rail. It looks like the 
end going into the switch is a British Flare (kind of flying saucer 
shape, looking in profile) and the master cylinder end is a normal North 
American type flare (like a Y shape in profile). I wanted to know if this 
was correct or if both ends were supposed to be the British type! By 
looking into the master, it looks as though both ends are going to be 
different. Anybody?

Thanks,
Rob

From Hal Leininger <halgram@slip.net> Sat Sep 2 17:23:20 1995 
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 17:23:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Hal Leininger <halgram@slip.net>
Subject: Palo Alto British Car Meet
Can someone post when this will be? 

From David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Sat Sep 2 19:37:05 1995 
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 19:37:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Hi Yves
I am another old time ham.  Thirty five years.  Commercial training 
originally and now an Educational Psychologist.  I have an interresting 
air operated mast that I use with my 64 IIA.  It climbs from about 8 feet 
nested to 40 feet by pumping in air from a small compressor.  Mostly I am 
on 2 meters with it for Red Cross work.  I have been working for the 
American Red Cross in radio on the Island Kawai two years ago, Russia and 
Finland last year and just this June in New Orleans for the flood.  You 
can see a picture of my 88 in Jimmyp WWW page along with a few other 
Manitoba Rovers. 73 Dave VE4PN

From Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Sat Sep 2 18:16:41 1995 
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 18:16:41 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: New Galvinized Frame
> I would second Jory's vote for returning the frame.  For the jack that 

I'll third it.  If it's noticably bent/damaged, return it.  As Jory said, if 
it was in shipping, it should be insured.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

From Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Sat Sep 2 18:16:23 1995 
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 18:16:23 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: aired down???
> Ummmm ....
> Roger did you say you aired _down_ to 45psi?
> If so, from what?!

Yep.  From 55-60psi.  (What the tyres are rated for for best mileage on the 
highway.)  (On the Mendocino run, I don't think I aired down at all.)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

From Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Sat Sep 2 18:16:06 1995 
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 18:16:06 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Where to take the kids in what (was: Discovery Shops)
>  Question: Are Land-Rover dealerships 'Discovery Shops*', or vica versa?

Or, if you have wee kids, are they 'Discovery Zones*'?  (Visions of children 
crawl over a brand new disco with melted chocolate bars, as Dad talks the 
price down...)

> -Michael 'Just Jealous' Carradine

P.S., Saw a Unimog in the Truck Trader.  I can get more info if you want.

*The Discovery Zone is a chain of (basically) indoor jungle gyms you can take 
kids to.  Actually, very affordable and very good for kids, developmentally.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Sat Sep 02 18:15:48 1995 
Date: Sat, 02 Sep 1995 18:15:48 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Palo Alto British Car Meet
 Hal Leininger <halgram@slip.net> writes:

>Can someone post when this will be?

 Re: Palo Alto British Car Meet

 Sunday September 10, 1995, starting at 9:00 AM (I think!)
 On the east side of El Camino Real, across from the
 Stanford Shopping Center.

 Michael Carradine         ?           '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                _\    __      http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                          [__[__[__]
 _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________

 

From JCassidyiv@aol.com Sat Sep 2 23:03:22 1995 
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 23:03:22 -0400
From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Subject: RR electrical probs
I posted a message last week about my oil level warning light flashing when
the dipstick reads normal level of oil.  Well, I haven't replaced the sensor
yet.  Now, there are two new electrical problems;
1.)  The low beam headlights dim significantly when the windshield washer is
used.  The high beams seem unaffected.

2.)  The transmission temperature warning light came on twice today, both
times after the vehicle had been sitting for at least 1-2 hours.  Ambient
temperature about 75 degrees F and after normal around town/highway use.

Those of you who are electrically minded please help!  It seems like the
electical system is slowly disintegrating each time I turn the key!(possibly
some Land Rover concoction to get me to go to the dealer and purchase a new
one?!)
Cheers!  John Cassidy

From Thouge@aol.com Sun Sep 3 00:00:59 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 00:00:59 -0400
From: Thouge@aol.com
Subject: clutch help
After wading through the river, water to the top of the transmission tunnel,
and then sitting overnight, the clutch in my SIII will not disengage.  We
have spent the last two weeks checking the hydraulics, removing the floor,
seats, etc. to check the throw out bearing and clutch plate.   Everything
seems fine...  Rovers North says the clutch is stuck and to get the vehicle
going in fourth gear and 'rock' the vehicle with the throttle.... still no
luck.  I need help, I'm going into Rover withdrawal.

Todd Houge
Springfield, Missouri USA
'73 SIII 88"  

From jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg) Sun Sep 3 00:41:02 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 00:41:02 -0400
From: jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg)
Subject: Multi purpose tools. (Was Re: Misc.)
>>- Latest Land Rover Gear item is a really neat Gerber multi-purpose tool
>>which

> Gerber makes good stuff, a 'merican company, although they were bought out by
> Solingen or somebody.

The Gerber tool is pretty nice, I bought one (not the official Land-Rover
model) for my father a couple of x-mas' ago.  However, take a look at the
offerings from SOG, particularly the para-tool, before buying the Gerber.
I think it's a better tool.  (The newest model even uses a gear system to
increase leverage on the jaws.)

The SOG handles won't close all the way when the pliers are in use, which
prevents the nasty blood blister that occurs when you cut through that
piece of wire and catch the fatty part of your palm between the handles.
Trust me, not 15 seconds after watching my father do this, I took the tool
from him (in disgust at his clumsiness) and did it to myself.

SOG comes with a hard plastic sheath, but a nylon case is available for
about $7 direct from SOG.  One nice feature of the nylon case is that it
can be mounted horizontally on your belt for a lower profile look.

Gerber was bought by the company that manufactures Fiskars scissors.  Don't
know the name.

Regards.

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg         Purple Shark Media             Rowayton, CT
                        jeff@purpleshark.com
                                *****
Look what happens when you love someone, and they don't love you.
                                       --Warren Zevon, The Heartache
==                                                                 ==

From Sekerere@aol.com Sun Sep 3 01:01:05 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 01:01:05 -0400
From: Sekerere@aol.com
Subject: Gaitors and Locks
Just catching up on LRO-D for the past couple fo weeks after our trip to
Africa. Pleased to say that "the beast" now has brand new reconditioned
swivel balls, and all the parts to go with them. Thank goodness for the used
ones that I bought as we had to cannibalize some parts. There is a bright
yellow/orange tailgate wired on for the time being, as I brought back the
wrong latches. Now we just have to do the Transfer and Transmission seals,
the exhaust downpipe and the pinion seals. List never seems to stop. Anyway I
have a couple of questions/problems. Somewhere in one of the lists someone
mentioned that they had the template for the Series gaiters and after talking
to the South African dealers I think I want to try to make myself a set
rather than buy them, unless someone can suggest some off brand ones. Also I
just received my door locks from a dealer in South Africa and find that they
are substantially different to the ones I have on the beast-so much so that I
cannot fit the drivers door with the one I bought for it, and I had to modify
the one for the safari door. The ones I have do not have the lock attached to
the handle and it is in the top left-hand corner as you look at the lock from
an outside vantage point. Somehow there is no way that the lock and handle
fit onto a Series IIA door without doing major cutting of metal. Firstly am I
just being dense or did the guy send me locks for a Series III or later?
Secondly is there anyone who would need this lock and handle-it is brand new.
By the way Arizona LROs give me a call sometime about the Arizona LR
Association you are trying to start-I would be interested.

Chris Whitehead
SeriesIIA -SWB 1966 (The Anti-Christ)- and money pit right now!!!!!!

From bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Sun Sep 3 01:21:46 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 01:21:46 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: 9th anual Hampton Classic
The offroad clinic today in S.Hampton was a blast! Not too difficult
compared to what I have done; but, really fun. I am still coughing up dust
from the track. Real dry. too make it fun I did the course as fast as was
sane.(insane for most) hahaha! The nick named me the dust cloud! I beat the
heck out of my D90! What a blast my wife and i had. It was a winding course
with a variety of obstacles. from mougles on angles and curves, too 75 deg
inclines with a hair pin turn at the top and a 80-85 deg decline. All on a
soft dry sandy course.
some poor owner goofed and rolled his 94 Range Rover on the track! ouch!
turned out he has big bucks though, so no biggy. The figure about 12,000.00
worth of dammage. He just did all the wrong things at one time. 3rd year
there too. No other dammaged vehicles. Some got stuck here and there causing
some traffic jams. I did the course 3 times for fun. the best part was it
was all free.

Then the trail ride(snore) was nice. the best part was a 15 yard mud
pit(natural). I waited till the other driver was way clear. The i looked to
my wife and said ready? She said yup. Put it it low 3rd and punched it! Mud
Everywhere! hahaha! it went right over the top of the vehicle!(we had no top
on)hahahaha! I won dirtiest truck! Power washed and still muddy. You know
what i will be doing tomarrow! Inside, outside, and underneath.

                                        
                                   -=>Brian<=-

From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 1 05:40:16 1995 
Date: Fri,  1 Sep 95 05:40:16 PDT
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: Re: Amateur Radio Callsigns (and more brake questions) 
Rob,

I have a '68 IIA.  As I recall both ends of this pipe have the same 
flare; perhaps yours has been changed some time in the last 32 
years?  They should both be the "flying saucer" shape. 

I looked at the instructions for my flaring kit recently; this 
refers to the flares, both single and double, as being "SAE" 

standard.

I recently posted details of a British manufactured tool to produce 
these flares; let me know if you would like details.
-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

From JCassidyiv@aol.com Sun Sep 3 11:25:00 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 11:25:00 -0400
From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Subject: Koenig Winch For Sale
I 'm posting this for a friend of mine.  He has a Koenig winch for sale
 that's in excellent shape.  It is the type that drives off the front of the
engine.  Price is $750.  Please E-mail if you're interested.  Serious
inquiries only.  The winch is located in Maine. 
Cheers!  John Cassidy

From GARCAY@aol.com Sun Sep 3 12:39:54 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 12:39:54 -0400
From: GARCAY@aol.com
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Hi All!!

I posted a request last week for anyone who might have or knows of four (4)
rear fold-up jump seats(not bench seats) for an ' 88 rover wagon that you'd
be willing to sell or trade. Any news out there ? My friend Greg, whom I
placed the ad for is desperate !!!

Thanks

Hope to from someone
                                                      George Arcay
                                                      Alexandria, Va.

From Kefi@aol.com Sun Sep 3 14:33:49 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 14:33:49 -0400
From: Kefi@aol.com
Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally
Hi all,

I and three or four other members of the Yankee Rover Club of Connecticut are
planning to attend the Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally.  We are planning to caravan
down to Va. and would like to know if anyone from the northeast or Canada is
driving down.  Maybe we could meet and all drive down together.  
 
Reply to me at Kefi@aol.com.

Thanks,

 Art Patsouris

From "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk> Sun Sep 3 19:21:21 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 19:21:21 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Re: ... (and more brake questions)
In message Sat, 2 Sep 1995 18:21:48 -0600 (MDT),
  Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>  writes:
> 63 Series IIa 88" SW
...
> end going into the switch is a British Flare (kind of flying saucer
> shape, looking in profile) and the master cylinder end is a normal North
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> looking into the master, it looks as though both ends are going to be
> different. Anybody?

I had to remove a rear cylinder with a stuck pipe. So i ordered a kit and
changed the pipe from the rear T-piece along with the cylinder. By checking
the rest of the kit i can see both flying saucers and y's.
Does this help?

BTW. My brother and i did maint. on the rovers last weekend. Anyone remember
my drum removal problems?. Well instead of getting hi-tensile bolts from
abroad i decided to get violent. A hydraulic jack against the spring and a
hammer took it off with the sound of a very big church bell and landed in my
brothers lap. Changed shoes and cylinder and the drum is back on. Didn't
look bad inside.

sv/aurens

From Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM> Sun Sep 03 15:29:36 1995 
Date: Sun, 03 Sep 1995 15:29:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: On the road again...
All,
    Tomorrow (monday the 4th) I head up from VA to Rovers North- about a
    14 hour drive.  I'm going to swap the engine and transmission in my
    vehicle (a 1960 Series II 88 with canvas top.)  This is one of those
    dicey timing exercises: don't want to replace them if they still
    have life in them...but can't wait so long that the vehicle can't
    make a 14 hour trip in one day!  Wish me luck.  Look for me on the
    highways.  Come rescue me if I break down...heh heh...

    If all goes well, I'll be back home by Saturday or Sunday, and will
    be at the BRLRC meet in Edinburg, VA the following weekend...and at
    the Mid-Atlantic rally at the end of the month!  (Still have to
    check with the wife on that one; asking her right before I abandon
    her alone with the kids for a week while I traipse up to VT didn't
    seem prudent...)

    Psyching myself up for a flaming hot right foot by the time I get
    there,
    Duncan

From Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca> Sun Sep 3 16:21:28 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 16:21:28 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: ... (and more brake questions)
 
On Sun, 3 Sep 1995, Soren Vels Christensen wrote:

> I had to remove a rear cylinder with a stuck pipe. So i ordered a kit and
> changed the pipe from the rear T-piece along with the cylinder. By checking
> the rest of the kit i can see both flying saucers and y's.
> Does this help?

So your saying that at the T end of the pipe there was a flying saucer 
and at the wheel cylinder there was a Y? If this pipe you have is a 
proper Land Rover part, then that explains what I was seeing. It just 
didn't make sense, and I can't just buy that part at my local store. I 
will either have to have one made up at a brake place, or order the 
actual Land Rover part. 

Thanks,
Rob

From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> 3 95 Sep EDT
 1920 
Date:  3 Sep 95 20:44:21 EDT
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Re: Rovers and Ham (radio, that is)
I stand proud with the porcine members of the list...<grin>

As a matter of fact, anybody got a good suggestion for mounting
a 2 meter/440 antenna without punching holes in the old aluminum
beast? 

    Your humble servant, Alan/N1TWY

From JDolan2109@aol.com Sun Sep 3 22:02:25 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 22:02:25 -0400
From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Subject: Back and reading
Thanks for the help with the mime decoding. First Spenny suggested it and
then Todd Houge. Problem 'solved'. So I can read the digest again. It was
just such a surprise finding that condition upon return from vacation. And
when I followed AOL's suggestion, it just compounded the problem.
Now if I can just figure out what those red and yellow knobs do...

See 'ya on the old road...
Jim  '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's   (thinktank?)
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! 

From jpappa01@interserv.com Sun Sep 3 19:09:35 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 95 19:09:35 PDT
From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Subject: Re: 	Lucas
John:

Sorry to hear of your Lucas experiences on the `87... Perhaps its time to have 
a go `round with (here comes the dreaded word...) *GROUNDS!* I'd go through 
the engine bay, and also pop the back of the instrument binnacle off. Just do 
a quick looksee for connection integrity. Terminal corrosion can be cured by 
removing terminals, smearing spades with some electrical grease, and 
refitting. Also make sure that all fuses are seated firmly and that fuse 
holder ends are electrically clean.

Those symptoms sure do sound like one or more bad grounds. Also, and I'm sure 
that you've already done this - check battery cable integrity and terminal 
cleanliness/tightness. 

And no - its not a plot to get you to buy a new Rover!! You already did that - 
beforehand!! John, feel free to call me at work and I'll try and patch you 
through to Bill Mauro - our RR guru in the hopes that he might be able to 
steer to towards some diagnostic procedure(s) short of you bringing the truck 
down.

Hope that you're enjoying the `87 - despite the problems you've had. It's 
still a Range Rover! Talk soon.

cheerz
Jim

From David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Sun Sep 3 21:42:24 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 21:42:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Rovers and Ham (radio, that is)
On 3 Sep 1995, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> I stand proud with the porcine members of the list...<grin>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> beast? 
>     Your humble servant, Alan/N1TWY
Well Alan, I used the hole normally filled by a plastic plug on the top 
of the fender.  The holes usually are reserved for the mirrors but I was 
able to mount a Larson 5/8th in the hole and leave no marks on the 
vehicle that can't be filled with the plug should I want to sell.  
Another good spot for the antenna is on the safari rack on a triangle 
plate across the corner of the rack.  On my unit I have a chrome ball on 
the side wall back of the station wagon window and I have mounts that go 
on the safari top ladder for mounting an air operated mast.  The mast 
goes up to 40 feet with no guy wires when using a 13 element 2 meter beam 
but I also use an inverted V on it so it is like having some guying.  
Dave VE4PN

From David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Sun Sep 3 21:46:28 1995 
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 21:46:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: sand ladders
I had some great luck today.  At a garage sale I bought two sand ladders 
like on the Camel Trophy for $5.00.  The fellow thought they were very 
long steps that needed to be welded on to be of use.  The neat thing is I 
used them before I got home.  I came across a Dodge Caravan down to the 
frame in soft sand.  I put the two under the front drive wheels and he 
drove out with little trouble.  They are going to be a nice addition to 
my safari top.  Dave VE4PN

From GElam30092@aol.com Mon Sep 4 01:00:33 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 01:00:33 -0400
From: GElam30092@aol.com
Subject: Accessories for the Discovery
I am currently in training for the sheriff's dept. volunteer group.  I plan
to join the 4WD Posse upon completion of training.  The 4WD Posse
participates in search and rescue, getting "ground pounders" to the right
spot, showing the "flag" when necessary, guarding access roads during fires,
etc.  By showing the flag, an example is a drive by shooting in a local town
which is about 1 square mile.  There were ten 4WD vehicles asked to maintain
a Sheriff's presence for the rest of the day.  

You have to pass a required number of hours of training including the same
firearms training that the deputies are subjected to as well as defensive
tactics, OC spray (yes..we were sprayed), first aid, mechanical restraints,
 traffic control, etc.  For the 4WD Posse, your vehicle has to be white (for
easier spotting in the From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Mon Sep 4 18:44:40 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 18:44:40 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Bull Bars and Bambi and Skippy
Mike writes.

costs".  

While this philosophy is truely exemplary, in all situations not just road
kill it fails to take into account one over-riding factor. The animal.

Damage to vehicles at least here in OZ is not restricted to frontal impacts.
A good friend has had a ute (non L/R) written off following a roll-over
after being hit in the side by a large  Roo.   'Ol Skip head butts the car
knocks himself out and falls under the rear tyre.... and over we go.  Seen
lots of badly damaged panels on curb side of cars following "Run ins" with
Heavy metal affected skippys, even seen one skip stagger up shake his head a
few times and hop rather unsteadily away after totalling both passenger doors
and the rear quarter panel on a Land-cruiser.

Trouble with Roos is that the literally just Jump out in front of you....

Now Buffalo (before they all got shot :-( are different, they sort of swagger
out and stand there... 
Usually just over the crest of a hill or around that blind sweeper.
Aint no bull bar made gonna save ya from one of those suckers....  Even the
road-train drivers didnt like to tangle with the big ones   (Road-train= 3
tri-axle semis all linked together 120+ meters long 100+ ton and untill
regulations changed speeds up to 160+ KMH).  Plenty of Kenworths and Macks
with twisted chassis in the wreckers in Katherine about 10 years back. 

Now where was I...
Oh yeh Roo/Bull bars..   There is a distinction between the two you know.
Basically none of the bars over here look much like what you see in
LRO-magazine under the title "Brush guard".  The traditional "Bull-bar"
consists of 4 I (i) beam uprights with plenty of tubular cross bars to fill
in the gaps and a big box or C channel bumper.They are  basically flat flat
in profile and slope slightly away from the vehicle.
Sometimes called Mack type bars. Most of the modern "sculptured" bars seem to
be based on this pattern (ie are perpendicular to the ground in profile).

The Roo bar by contrast is typically made from almost exclusively from
tubular material, with the exception of the bar that replaces the bumper
which usually is of a solid box section. They are much cheaper and lighter,
but are designed so that one bar in the middle protrudes a long way forward
of the vehicle.   (if the bar is laid on the ground with the vehicle side
down it will present a triangular profile side on).   The idea of this is to
push the offending animal down and under the vehicle rather than up and over
the bonnet and thru the window..   (There was something on the media a few
months ago about some guy who was killed when a roo came thru the screen and
couldnt get out, anyone over here remember the details?)  

>  Glad to see you back on the net.  With so little traffic from AU/SA we'd
>  thought roo's buggered the whole bloody lot!

Nah, just been out dodging Elk and red-deer at Bundaleer (near Jamestown) (on
private land) and Roos at Burra.

Well I've rambled on too long already.  Any questions????

-- 

  Daryl

From sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Mon Sep 4 10:34:44 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 95 10:34:44 BST
From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: Heretic!
CC'd from my posting to the UK-lro thingy.

 Subject: Heretic!

 Hi all, yesterday I was pootling along the A32 (just north of Portsmouth) and
 I came across some of those orange castrol arrows which mark motor sports
 events.  Never one to pass motor sport I pulled in.  It turns out that it
 was the tail end of a gymkhana being run by Hants & Berks ROC.  After lurking
 for a few minutes I started talking to a couple of the organisers.

 The long and short of it was that if I joined the club I couldn't enter any
 competitions.  Apparently my lightweight isn't good enough for them.

 The problem lies with the engine.  A year ago I went playing in the mud at
 Cannock and sucked an air filter full of water into the engine.  It got me
 home but not much further.  Time for a new engine.

 After weighing up lots of alternatives I decided on a Ford V6 for the following
 reasons:

 I needed to tow a heavy trailer (about a tonne and a half).
 I needed more performance.
 Fuel economy would be nice.
 I was at the time a student & therefore broke.

 I picked up a second hand 2.8 Granada lump with all the fitting kits & other
 bits from a bloke who wanted something different in his lightweight, for what
 seemed to be a reasonable price.  The fact that it appears to have had ring
 sealant or something similar in it is a minor problem as the engine gave up a
 few months later.  Thanks for that, mate!

 The V6 is actually easier to fit than the V8 (the other obvious choice) and
 only requires a quick lump to the footwell with a hammer, rather that lots of
 cutting and welding.

 I now have an engine which provides a reasonable amount of power & torque.
 Enough in fact for me to leave most cars in a cloud of tyre smoke at the lights
 if I choose.  I also managed a whole 23 MPG whilst towing a trailer (only half
 a tonne or so) from Birmingham to Portsmouth, and I wasn't hanging around
 either.

 So I haven't destroyed my Land Rover with the power, they can after all cope
 with a V8.  Externally it looks standard, apart from the larger exhaust pipe.
 It makes no more noise than standard.  Off road abilities are improved,
 although I suspect the front axle weight is up a bit.

 This is not good enough for the Association of Rover Clubs (the ARC) however.
 I have defiled my Land Rover, it is no longer pure and therefore cannot take
 part in anything to do with the ARC.

 Why not?

 Land Rover themselves have done the same thing, first with VM engines and now
 a BMW lump.

 I could understand them objecting to modified vehicles in general if they were
 a concourse club or similar.  They are quite happy with Hybrids and other
 modifications, even though these vehicles are also implying that (here's the
 heresy) Land Rover designers aren't perfect and the cars can be improved.

 Is there anybody out there an the committee of the ARC who would like to
 comment on this?

 I cannot fault the Hants & Berks ROC however.  They where very welcoming and
 friendly (even to a heretic who turned up on a motor bike) and would have
 happily taken my money to join, but not let me enter the competitions.  They
 were bound by the ARC's rules however.  I believe that the Range Rover Register
 have had to leave the ARC for exactly this reason.  Isn't it time that the
 ARC realised that Land Rovers are the best even after they have had engine
 upgrade?

 Steve Reddock, Lightweight V6 (and proud of it!)

From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 04 95 Sep EDT
 1905 
Date: 04 Sep 95 05:43:25 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Accessories for the Discovery
> Is there anyone out there with any experience with these types of
> accessories?  Is there a source that you might recommend?  Any help is
> greatly appreciated.

There are a number of special catalogues from Land Rover as well as
aftermarket suppliers for custom Discovery/Range Rover add-ons such as
police lights, rifle & ammo boxes, gun racks, loadspace mount for anti-
aircraft gun (oops, sorry, that's for the Defender 130)... Don't know
if LR dealers in the US have these catalogues, but maybe they can get
them for you.

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

From Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Mon Sep 4 10:52:00 1995 
Date:          Mon, 4 Sep 1995 10:52:00 +0000
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject:       Re: Bull Bars and Bambi and Skippy
On  4 Sep 95, Daryl Webb wrote:

> Well I've rambled on too long already.  Any questions????
Yes,

Why are they called BULLbars? 

If the idea is to avoid tangling with 'Roos call them roobars.
If the idea is to avoid tangling with flora call them bushbars.

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Mon Sep 4 19:46:20 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 19:46:20 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Bull Bars why???
Ian Writes:
> Why are they called BULLbars? 

Sort of a generic thing I guess.  In The good old days the large flat 4 post
type were the "Bull bar".  Supposed to protect you from Bulls....  Calves and
small cows yes, Bulls...  all 1100+Kg   yeh right...  The commercial ones look
nothing like the mobile railway tracks seen on Bull Catchers.
  
> If the idea is to avoid tangling with 'Roos call them roobars.  

They are/were

> If the idea is to avoid tangling with flora call them bushbars.

Never a term used much here in Oz probably due to the prevelance of the more
robust Bull/Roo bars.  Have heard people use the term "scrub bar" but not
often. 

cheers

-- 

  Daryl

From Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Mon Sep 4 11:35:19 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 95 11:35:19 BST
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Bull Bars and Bambi and Skippy
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>      ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
> Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
>  <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>
I suspect that this is the advertising industry,currentley hoist
bt its own dewberry-firkin,at least over here.We've had them called
Nerf bars,nudge bars,brush bars etc.But how much more MACHO is the
term BULL bar.London again<sigh>.So now the press doesnt like 'em.
Surprise,surprise.You've only got to go to an agricultural show,
and look at a fully grown two ton Hereford bull to realise that
front bumper mounted field gate or no,hit one of these beasts,
and you're *dead*.
Question.Do our African friends call 'em Rhino Bars,or have they
got more sense?

Cheers
Mike Rooth

From Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk> Mon Sep 4 09:32:11 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 09:32:11 GMT
From: Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Land Rovers!
Hello!

Do you cater for the American market mainly, or can you also accomodate UK based 
enquiries? If not, have you any suggestions on where I can post UK based 
queries?...Thanks.

Gerald.

From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Mon Sep 4 20:46:24 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 20:46:24 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Bull Barset al
Miek tells us quite correctly:

> Surprise,surprise.You've only got to go to an agricultural show,
> and look at a fully grown two ton Hereford bull to realise that
> front bumper mounted field gate or no,hit one of these beasts,
> and you're *dead*.

That would seem to be the basic fact that some of the advertising people in
London (or Sydney or New York) have yet to grasp.  Still for as long as I
can remember the bigger more robust "field gates " have been called "Bull-bars"

Still such things are of some use at least for the overlander.    It is
actualy possible to "hit" a Bull at speed and survive.  I'll never forget the
size of the dry-cleaning bill after we *just* clipped the tail of a big buff on
the Arnhem highway many years ago....  Just caught the last 6 or so inches of
the tail with the Bull-bar at about 120Kmh.  He was none too impressed, the
noise sure woke up everybody in the car....

cheers

-- 

  Daryl

From Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Mon Sep 4 12:22:43 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 95 12:22:43 BST
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Bull Bars and Bambi and Skippy
> If the idea is to avoid tangling with 'Roos call them roobars.
> If the idea is to avoid tangling with flora call them bushbars.

And for those which will only ever tangle with pedestrians...!?

All the best,
Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

From "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za> Mon Sep 4 13:39:49 1995 
Date:          Mon, 4 Sep 1995 13:39:49 GMT+200
From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za>
Subject:       Re: LR books
Hi Lloyd & LROs

You wrote:

> Does anyone have recommendations re forward-facing fold-up seats to
> mount in the rear of a SIII LWB HT ?

I am currently constructing just this for my 110 Hardtop. It is a 
design as you go job so I am not yet sure what it will look like. So 
far I've made four seats and backs. This was done taking a 495x395 
(300x395 for the back) 17mm chipboard, putting a piece of packing chipped foam (sponge) on 
top and covering with aritficial leather. All this was from scrap 
materials.

For the rest I am not yet quite sure. Thinking of making a 25mm angle 
iron frame to fit these on and then .....
                               _
                              /  /
                             /  /
                            /_/
                              /
           +------__<>O  <---- Folding gadget
           |------____ /   +----- Sliding rail with bolts
           |              /    |
           L______/     V
[======T===T=======================]

                                 100mm space for easy entry/exit
       |                           |                         |
       |                          V                         |
       +--------------------+       +--------------------+
       |                      |       |                      |
       |                      |       |                      |    
       |                      |       |                      |
       +--------------------+       +--------------------+
       []                     []     []                     []
       +--------------------+       +--------------------+
       |                      |       |                      |
       +--------------------+       +--------------------+
       |                                                     |

Let me know if you get any better ideas

Greetings

Gawie
Gawie van Blerk
---------------------------------------------------------------
Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work)
         : gawie@pixie.co.za (home)
URL      : http://www.pix.za/0/business/bloemfontein/gawie.html
Tel      : 27+51+404-2421
---------------------------------------------------------------

From Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com> 04 95 Sep EDT
 1908 
Date: 04 Sep 95 08:27:38 EDT
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject: Lock-Rite diff on Disco
About a week ago I installed a Lock-Rite locking diff in the rear of my
Disco.The install took about 6 hours ( never been inside a diff before) and
invlved removing the spider and side gears and replacing them with dog clutches.
Once done I took the vehicle out for a quick trial run. On the street there was
no change except for a mild clicking noise as ththe outside wheel unlocks so
that it can travel faster in a turn. This is not an objectionable sound and is
minimized be using a heavy diff lube such a Lucas (no relation) oil stabilizer.
I found a road construction site that provided an 18" embankment so tthat I
could get two wheels of the Disco off the ground (the acid test). I stopped the
vehicle going uphill with the right front and left wheels hanging in mid air and
with the center diff lock off just idled up the embankment. The second test was
a steep 30' uneven slope about 15" high. normally this obstacle requires a good
bit of momentum to overcome due to getting cross axeled. The Lock-rite equipped
Disco just crawled up with no tire spin or drama, and with much more control.
I can heartily reccomend this product for the auto box Disco. The company is
conducting tests on other Rovers ( I believe they already have a unit for the
RR). The series vehicles had some problems initially due to the slop in their
drivetrain but the company had devised a solution to this and is currenty
testing it.
The units run about $400 and for someone with a bit of mechanical experience
installation will not be a problem. you do not have to reset the pinion as you
use your original carrier. The phone # for the company is:
			1-800-Lockers
								
The units come with a one year warranty and unlike some other difflocks are
simple and robust like the vehicles we love. Just think now I can get stuck
where NOBODY ELSE can get to!

				Mark Ritter 94 Disco

      ps. Tell Lock-Rite you saw it on the Rover-Net

From Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Mon Sep 4 13:36:12 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 95 13:36:12 BST
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: LR SIII HT forward facing seats
> > Does anyone have recommendations re forward-facing fold-up seats to
> > mount in the rear of a SIII LWB HT ?

In case you missed it, I'll repeat that the rear seat from one of the
older, smaller Suzuki jeeps (the kind that kept falling over going round
corners) fits nicely between the wheel boxes of a LWB, facing forward or
turned around to face backwards.  The back of the seat folds down as
required and you could add a pivot on the front to allow the seats to
fold up near the front of the load-bed if required.

Fitting is simple, using a few blocks of wood and bolts.  Ours is bolted
onto the load-bed and is removeable in its entirety by undoing the bolts,
leaving the pickup bed flat and 'untouched'

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

P.S. Getting in and out is accomplished by climing over the seats!

From Dr Peter Ramsay <RAMSAYP@geology.und.ac.za> Mon Sep 4 15:15:19 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 15:15:19 +0200 (SAST)
From: Dr Peter Ramsay <RAMSAYP@geology.und.ac.za>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Hi all

Greetings from sunny South Africa!  Since BMW took control of Land 
Rover in South Africa they have been causing quite a bit of trouble 
for the smaller, non-BMW approved service garages and threatening 
these guys with legal action because they use the trade mark "Land 
Rover" or similar such as "Landy" in their business name.  Most of 
these companies have been around much longer than the relatively new 
BMW-Land Rover take over.  Could anyone in the group know if this is 
happening in other parts of the world and if so how successful are 
the Land Rover service garages in opposing the BMW action.  I would 
appreciate any correspondence.

Best wishes

Peter

PS. Proud owner of a 1984 110 V8 pick-up fondly refered to as "The 
Brick with an Aircraft Engine".
**********************************************************************
Dr Peter J Ramsay
Marine Geoscience Unit
P O Box 18091
Dalbridge, 4014
Durban
South Africa
Tel (+2731) 811260
Fax (+2731) 2602280
**********************************************************************

From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 04 95 Sep EDT
 1909 
Date: 04 Sep 95 09:58:51 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Introducing: EUROLINK
Just thought I'd throw this in here, in case it interests anybody. As the
subject matter implies, it is of primary interest to European-based
LR owners and European LR clubs.

The following is a draft letter from and by Krister Bergknut, Hon.Chairman of
the Swedish Land Rover Club ("Svensk Land Rover Klubb") but who is currently
resident in Norway and also closely affiliated with the Norwegian LRC.
I'm forwarding this 'as is' to let the Internet roverheads know what's going
on at committee level in the European LR club scene...

***********************
BEGIN of forwarded text
***********************

"The Future of EUROLINK
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

The future of EUROLINK was discussed in Hunderfossen when the Norwegian
Land Rover Club celebrated its 20 birthday.
Some 25 people from seven countries and 15 LR clubs took part in the
discussion. ARC was represented by Andrew Stavordale, secretary.
LRO had sent Sue Combridge to cover the event and she was as well involved
in the discussions about EUROLINK.

The aim of EUROLINK is to link Land Rover owners in Europe, and the rest of
the world, together.
This will be done in three ways:
- encourage one or several clubs to arrange an annual meeting where the
"grand Finale" is the first Saturday in August. With a fixed date like that
You can plan Your vacations several years ahead.
- keep a current and updated list of Land Rover Clubs in Europe and the
rest of the world. It was very clear in the meeting that this is an
important task.
- keep a list of events over the year in different countries.

Please send a complete address of your club, with telephone and
telefax-number and e-mail address if there is one. Add the mobile telephone
number of some person available for contact - you might need an instant
contact if you are in a foreign country and need assistance!
This list of addresses might be regularly published in LRO and by ARC. We
will try to make it available in Internet.

The celebration of 50 Years Land Rover was discussed and the meeting came
to the following conclusion:
There will be many opportunities to participate in celebrations in England
1998, for those who wish to go there and can afford it. A EUROLINK meeting
in England can never compete with existing arrangements.
The Dutch and/or German Land Rover Clubs have suggested that they arrange a
meeting to celebrate Land Rover 50 Years somewhere in Holland or Germany.
This suggestion was strongly supported by ARC, and Andrew Stavordale
promised the full support from ARC.
We will do our best to get full support from Land Rover - of course."
------------------------------------------------------------------------

*********************
END of forwarded text
*********************

FYI, Krister Bergknut can be e-mailed at krister.bergknut@postbox.postnet.se
Maybe someone would like to offer him and the EUROLINK project a 'niche' in
one of the established and well-known Roverweb-sites? Or what about
http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/ ? (you out there, Terje? Quit lurkin'...)
Would seem like the appropriate place to me.
BTW this EUROLINK thing is an *inter-club project* at committee level,
so don't bombard poor Krister with individual mails. Instead, get in touch
with your club, find out if there's interest, and have someone of at least
committee status, preferably the Prez or Secretary, get in touch with
Krister. The idea is to organize and concentrate, and not to scatter and
dissipate efforts.
Another example of what EUROLINK is supposed to be about: One project
discussed at the meeting in Norway (though Krister hasn't mentioned it
above) was to organize competitive events in the manner of 'Trophys' where
mixed crews are teamed up from different clubs and nationalities; so, a
winner would be "Team so-and-so", and not 'Club A' or 'Country B'.

Enjoy,

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

From steve gross <sgross@enet.net> Mon Sep 4 08:20:03 1995 
Date: Mon,  4 Sep 95 08:20:03 PDT
From: steve gross <sgross@enet.net>
Subject: RE: Soft tops on the D90
Regarding repair or replacement of the Tickford top on the D90, the official policy of LRNA is to replace snaps that break 
locally.  If a zipper breaks or any other damage occurs, the top is to be replaced with a reconditioned Tickford (Not 
Bestop).  There is a special part number for reconditioned Tickford tops.  

-steve

Stephen C. Gross
Pilot B737
America West Airlines
Phoenix, AZ

From Sanna@aol.com Mon Sep 4 11:55:37 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 11:55:37 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo
Well, I've bitten my tounge long enough.  Two subjects not, as of yet,
introduced in this thread are 1) offensive use of a Moo Bar, and 2) hitting
Bossie without one.

Of the first: During an end-of-the-day, heated argument with the owner of a
car wash (details withheld), he had one of his minions roll sand-filled
plastic barrels (oil drum- size, partially filled) accross the drive to close
off the entrance (he does it every night).  However, I was trapped on the
inside, and after breaking it off with the owner, I exited straight through
one of the barrels at about 20 mph.  I took the obstruction in the right side
of the bar, exploding the barrel and throwing it about 80 feet.  The only
mark to my RR was a slight black scrub on the wing, where the bar flexed back
on impact and touched the body.  The bar sprung back to it's original
position after absorbing the shock, and the black rubbed off later with a
cloth.

The second:  Back in the early '70's I was driving my IIa (no Moo Bar)
through open range in Nevada, when a calf jumped in front of 'ol Lulubelle.
 I took her square on at about 45 mph, tossing her on the hood, off the
windshield, and then back to the pavement when I braked.  Except for an
enormous amount of **** all over the screen & hood ( she lost all bowel &
bladder control), the Rover was unscathed.  The calf, however, did not fare
so well.  After driving some 20 miles to find the rancher, he put her away
due to a broken back.  Anyway, it all turned out OK (except for the calf).
 The rancher had veal for a month, Lulubelle was undamaged, and I had a good
time filling out the insurance form to replace his livestock.

Tony

-

From mgunson@ucla.edu (The Gunson's) Mon Sep 4 09:07:54 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 09:07:54 -0700
From: mgunson@ucla.edu (The Gunson's)
Subject: Skid Plates on Discovery
I'm about to purchase a Discovery.  My question is this--Do I need a skid
plate if I plan on truly abusing my vehicule in the dirt?  The dealer
yesterday said that he could order a Camel Trophy Skid Plate and that it
would have no effect on the air bags because the crumple zone is higher than
the plate.  He said I really don't need it though.  I've read that the skid
plate interferes with the airbags.  Please help.  If I can save money by not
getting the skid plate and still have the assurance that I'm not going to
ruin my car then great.  If the skid plate messes up the airbags then my
mind is made up for me.  Thanks for your help.

Mike.

________________________________________________

"Nothing to the supramental sense is really finite; it is founded on a
feeling of  all in each and of each in all."

                                                                            
   -Sri Aurobindo

From "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca> Mon Sep 4 12:15:00 1995 
Date:  Mon, 4 Sep 1995 12:15:00 -0400 
From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca>
Subject:  Discovery Oil changes 
While we're on this topic of oil changes, I thought I'ld pose a
question.

I will be doing an oil change, shortly, on my Discovery and just for the
heck of it, I decided to read the owner's manual. Everything looked quite
typical except for one thing; the manual says that you are to refill the
sump with oil BEFORE you change the oil filter. Apparently this is to
prevent the oil pump from being drained.

I've never before seen such a requirement. Is it in fact necessary? Am I
likely to do any more damage on this vehicle as compared to any other
vehicle if I change as usual (i.e. empty oil, change filter, refill oil)?
How much of the old oil is in fact left in the vehicle to contaminate the
new oil?

I asked the dealer about this and they were surprised to see it. I guess
they don't do it this way!

Cheers,

  -Christian
   '95 Discovery

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Mon Sep 4 11:28:51 1995 
Date:          Mon, 4 Sep 1995 11:28:51 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Series swivel pin preload
Has anyone out there in Roverdom checked the swivel pin preload *after* 
fitting the swivel seals? Out of curiosity maybe?
A couple of years ago I rebuilt mine and I guess I set it a might high. 
Anyway, the steering was a bit stiff, and seems to have gotten a little 
stiffer, but I didn't have time to take it back apart.
I want to put in some more shims but I'd rather not have to pull out the 
seals right now. So I'm hoping someone might have an idea what the preload 
is, on average, with seals in place.
If not, I guess I'll just mesure it before, and then add shims to lower it a 
few pounds. 
Thanks

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Mon Sep 4 11:37:46 1995 
Date:          Mon, 4 Sep 1995 11:37:46 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: 
Mike writes:
> I'm about to purchase a Discovery.  My question is this--Do I need a skid
> plate if I plan on truly abusing my vehicule in the dirt?  The dealer
> yesterday said that he could order a Camel Trophy Skid Plate and that it
> would have no effect on the air bags because the crumple zone is higher than
> the plate.  He said I really don't need it though.  I've read that the skid
Snip 

Why would you buy a $30,000 car and then "plan on truly abusing" it? 
Buy a jeep.
However, if you are intent on abusing it, then a skid plate will certainly 
help it to last longer; however, even a skidplate won't protect it from real 
abuse.
If you are a careless driver, or a careful one but drive alot in very rocky 
terrain, then a skidplate is probably warranted.
The "Camel Trophy Skid Plate" sounds like a name tacked onto something so 
they can charge you more. I'd do a little price comparison. 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Mon Sep 4 11:41:42 1995 
Date:          Mon, 4 Sep 1995 11:41:42 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Discovery Oil changes 
Theoretically, I suppose it is better for the engine, since when it starts 
there is less time for it to run with no oil (that's when the most damage is 
done to an engine). My solution is to disconnect the switch to coil wire and 
crank the engine until the oil light goes out.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Grahame.Harden@BRI.NRC.CA Mon Sep 4 13:18:02 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 13:18:02 -0400
From: Grahame.Harden@BRI.NRC.CA
Subject: Deseasiel
The joys and more joys of the UK's great rush to become a Euro-Law
society... OK, so I've got a gripe because my heap fails to meet
Brussel's modern motoring requirements. Smoking diesel, to me a 
Landrover, to the police... some revenue. Question is, pump or
timing? Here's what I've seen: The head's been off (last time to
collect a dropped insert), the bores, pistons, rings are all within
acceptable parameters. When I nailed it back last, she had new injectors,
etc. The pumps done 50K miles, no water has got that far since I've
had the car. The smoke pours out regardless of timing.

I'd like to avoid having Lucas strip the pump, if it's not the 
problem, but I feel it is.... anybody want to agree? Other 
things I should look at, I mean I haven't had the timing cover
off to check the chain, gearing to the pump etc., at 50K...
seems not worth the hassle. Anybody tell me what wear the system
can tolerate.

The symptoms on the road: Cruising on the level, no smoke at all!
Slight foot down and/or perceptible gradient... great black clouds
of soot. Up a mountain pass... Jesus! Overrun is OK, no smoke.
When cold, not too bad just unburnt diesel on the level. Sounds
to me like advance?? on the pump. The valve guides are OK on overrun,
bores fine on the level. Crankcase pressure is nought, no water
used. The engine is quiet (well....) smooth and well up on go.

Thing is, you floor the pedal in neutral and you can't breath.
Since this is how they test emmissions here in the UK, I've
got a problem. 

I've been running the heap in Finland for the past 2 years, and 
Australia before that, so as a foreign vehicle it could spew out
enough to cause the next global winter. Actually it wasn't soooo
bad in Finland, they use the heavily refined diesel, but still
way beyond the likes of the British MoT man. Has anybody tried
adding oxygenates to diesel fuel? Thought of mixing 10% MTBE
in the fuel just for the MoT... all I want is that piece of paper.

Cheers for the help,   Grahame

From "John Groome" <johng.iafrica.com@minnie.iafrica.com> Mon Sep 4 19:15:10 1995 
Date:          Mon, 4 Sep 1995 19:15:10 +0200
From: "John Groome" <johng.iafrica.com@minnie.iafrica.com>
Subject:       Re: LR books
>From:          "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za>
>To:            Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>> Does anyone have recommendations re forward-facing fold-up seats to > mount in the rear of a SIII LWB HT ? 
>I am currently constructing just this for my 110 Hardtop. It is a design as you go job so I am not yet sure what it will look like. So far I've made four seats and backs. This was done taking a 495x395 (300x395 for the back) 17mm chipboard, putting a pi
ece of packing chipped foam (sponge) on top and covering with aritficial leather. All this was from scrap materials. 
>For the rest I am not yet quite sure. Thinking of making a 25mm angle iron frame to fit these on and then .....                                _                               /  /                              /  /                             /_/        
>To:            Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com
                       /            +------__<>O  <---- Folding gadget            |------____ /   +----- Sliding rail with bolts            |              /    |            L______/     V [======T===T=======================] 
>                                 100mm space for easy entry/exit        |                           |                         |        |                          V                         |        +--------------------+       +--------------------+     
>To:            Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com
   |                      |       |                      |        |                      |       |                      |           |                      |       |                      |        +--------------------+       +--------------------+        
[]                     []     []                     []        +--------------------+       +--------------------+        |                      |       |                      |        +--------------------+       +--------------------+        |         
                                            |        |                                                     | 
>Let me know if you get any better ideas 
>To:            Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Greetings 
>Gawie Gawie van Blerk --------------------------------------------------------------- Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work)          : gawie@pixie.co.za (home) URL      : http://www.pix.za/0/business/bloemfontein/gawie.html Tel      : 27+51+404-
2421 --------------------------------------------------------------- 
>Let me know if you get any better ideas 
>To:            Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com

Hi

I have been thinking of something along the same lines.  I have a 
SIIa hard top and need something for my kids to sit on.

I was thinking of a few bucket seats mounted on a steel frame of some 
sort.  I saw a landy with this sort of set up at Goldreef City.  It 
only had one seet in the back but it could clearly have up to 6 seets 
installed in this way.

Best wishes

John
John Groome
PO Box 12628
Benoryn
1504
South Africa

Tel : +27 11 973-3403
Fax : +27 11 973-3283
Cell: +27 82 442-6281

From LAW142@aol.com Mon Sep 4 14:55:31 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 14:55:31 -0400
From: LAW142@aol.com
Subject: IMPROTIMG LAND ROVERS INTO THE U.S.
I HAD A GOOD RESPONSE TO MY FIRST OFFER OF INFORMATION ON IMPORTING LRs INTO
THE U.S.   IF YOU STILL NEED INFORMATION JUST ASK.  I IMPORTED A 1969 SIIA
109 SAFARI 5DOOR WITH A PETROL ENGINE.  I HAD NO PROBLEMS AND NO SPECIAL FEES
OR MODIFICATION REQUIREMENTS.

DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A CAMEL TROPHY STICKER FOR MY LR AND A
PATCH TO SEW ON  A HAT OR JACKET?

ARE THERE ANY SERIES LAND ROVER OWNERS IN TEXAS?

CAN ANYONE HELP ME FIND THE ARTICLE IN LRW ABOUT THE DO IT YOURSELF SNORKLE
(RAISED AIR INTAKE)?  I NEED TO BUILD ONE FOR MY LR SIIA  3.5LITRE
V8(1978ENGINE).

From Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Mon Sep 4 11:22:42 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 11:22:42 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Insurance for U.S. Series Rovers
>     --  driving not more than 2,500 miles per year

How would they know if the Odometer doesn't work?  8^)  This wouldn't work 
for me, since, although I rarely drive it much regularly, I do a lot more 
than this when going on holiday.

>     --  no driving to work

Does it include finding me work downtown or near Bart? 8^)

>     --  vehicle to be garaged (carported?)

Obviously, this guy doesn't live in SF!  8^)

>  the annual premium was quoted at $180.  [For more information contact

Wow!  That's what I pay *per month* on my 109"!  Maybe I *should* give this 
guy a call!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

From bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Mon Sep 4 15:11:28 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 15:11:28 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: Hampton CLassic off road clinic
Anyone interested in going to this next year can contact:

Winnie Kelly  1-800-386-9226

I met someone from Colorado was at this years event.
                                        
                                   -=>Brian<=-

From "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com> Mon Sep 4 13:36:39 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 13:36:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Jeeps And Other Mistakes
Yes, Clayton, $39 for the 7500 mile physical is right.  That's about what 
I paid, too.

Cheers!
John
'95 5spd Discovery
San Francisco, California

On Wed, 30 Aug 1995, Clayton Kirkwood wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> On Aug 30,  8:44am, Stuart Williams wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
> -- 
> Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Mon Sep 4 18:49:27 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 18:49:27 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Exhaust wrap
Just got back from Penlan Farm and the site of the Mid-Atlantic Rover 
Rally...used the teeter-totter as a ramp and fitted a new SS front pipe 
wrapped with fiberglas tape.  This stuff is *great*.  On an 85 degree run 
home, my feet were *much* cooler and happier.  It also seemed quieter.  The 
only negative fact is that I didn't wear long pants, sleeves and gloves 
fitting the stuff :-(  Anyway, I'd reccommend it to anyone trying to keep 
their feet cooler - it really works.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

From Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au> Tue Sep 5 11:16:23 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:16:23 +0930
From: Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au>
Subject: Re: IMPROTIMG LAND ROVERS INTO THE U.S.
At 02:55 PM 4/09/95 -0400, you wrote:

>I HAD A GOOD RESPONSE TO MY FIRST OFFER OF INFORMATION ON IMPORTING LRs INTO
>THE U.S.   IF YOU STILL NEED INFORMATION JUST ASK.  I IMPORTED A 1969 SIIA
>109 SAFARI 5DOOR WITH A PETROL ENGINE.  I HAD NO PROBLEMS AND NO SPECIAL FEES
>OR MODIFICATION REQUIREMENTS.    <SNIP>  ......etc

No insult meant but next time try not to SHOUT! It makes it much easier to read.

Cheers  :-)

Tiffany Downing

********************************************
Co-ordinator, International Student Programs
TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA
Phone:   (61 8) 226 3202
Fax:     (61 8) 226 3655
E-Mail:  tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
********************************************

From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Mon Sep 4 22:24:58 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 22:24:58 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Frames
Following several threads on frames, I heard a rumor a while ago that Steve 
Walker Frames was picking up lock, stock and bushings and moving to the US 
to resume operations.  Anyone hear anything?
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

From "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@ACC.ROANOKE.EDU> Mon Sep 4 22:38:43 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 22:38:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@ACC.ROANOKE.EDU>
Subject: needing parts
Hello rover lovers.  Haven't written in a while since I haven't
been working on my rover.  I am off and running once again on its
restoration.

     The transmission is in pieces on my shop table and two gears
have been ordered.  While I am heavily involved with the tranny
does anyone out there have an overdrive they would like to part
with at a reasonable price?  I hope so.  It would be much easier to
go ahead and install it now than later.

     Also what is the best treatment for the frame while I can
easily get to it?  It is still partially painted but needs some
attention.  It is still in excellent shape and I want to keep it
that way.

     Last thing, I need front springs.  The current springs are
custom made from 2-ton Dodge truck leaf springs and are way to
stiff.  I guess I should tell you that the patient is a 1961 Series
II 88".  Thanks for any and all help!  Now we'll see if I can get
the tranny back together....

                                                  Thanks
                    
                                                  Stuart Moore
                                                  Roanoke College
                                                  Salem, Virginia

                                                  '61 Series II 88"
                                                  '59 MGA Roadster
                                                  '68 MGB-GT
                                                  '74 MGB Roadster
                                                  '39 Studebaker
                                                      Champion

p.s. Someone posted mail a few days ago about an Electric wench
already mounted to a LR bumper for $150.00.  I somehow lost that
message.  If you still have it let me know.  I'm interested.  Or
call me at (540)389-2454.  Thanks.

From Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com> 04 95 Sep EDT
 1922 
Date: 04 Sep 95 22:48:13 EDT
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: Illegible ASCII Text
Is it just me or has anyone else had trouble decifering the ASCII text that
has been on this forum lately. It has been a while since anything came across
that has not taken me a while to decifer/recognize. If it is just me, or CIS,
I will try to make adjustments. I have not had this problem on messages sent
through Compuserve, just those from LRO-Digest.

 I hate missing all the pictures especially after the effort that is put into
them.<g>

 Rob Dennis
 Atlanta, GA USA
 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 04-Sep-1995

From David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Mon Sep 4 22:01:09 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 22:01:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Techy Question
For you technical types in our midst a couple of questions.  What are the 
two studs on the front engine cover of the IIA for?  They are on the 
right hand side about level with the lower rad hose and on my vehicle 
they have a nut and lock washer on them but they don't hold anything on, 
in fact they look like something is missing!  I suspect a pump of some 
kind might mount there but I have never seen one in my 8 Land Rovers.  
Second question.  I was always taught that to time an engine with a 
vacuum gauge you set the timing for max " of Hg and then backed off just 
a tad.  Today I did a timing light set up and I was way too advanced.  I 
reset the igniting to about 3 degrees BTDC and all my misfire left and no 
ping but the vacuum dropped 3" of Hg.  It is still between the 17 and 20 
required of a properly tuned engine however.  
So far no one has responded to my trade of a diesel pump for a good Solex 
carb and manifold.  I also have a new Zenith rebuild kit if someone wants 
to trade a Solex kit for it or has something to trade otherwise about 
$10.00 should do it.  Dave VE4PN

From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Tue Sep 5 12:37:49 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 12:37:49 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Discovery Oil changes
Christian asks:

> I've never before seen such a requirement. Is it in fact necessary? Am I
> likely to do any more damage on this vehicle as compared to any other
> vehicle if I change as usual (i.e. empty oil, change filter, refill oil)?

While I cant speak for the disco I assume that the oil system is basically the
same as early rangies and other 3.5 V8's.  
It is rather too easy to drain the oil pump dry if you are not carefull.
(= quick).  I dont know about refilling the sump first, but I always  fill
the new filter and fit it immediately the old one is out the way.  I made the
mistake of letting her drain just a little too long (no oil in sump) a few
months back when I forgot to have the filter handy, cant have been more than
a minute or so, but on refill no oil pressure........
It was possible for me to reprime the pump without resorting to pulling it
down and packing with white petroleum grease, but not a job I'd like to
repeat.... 

 How much of the old oil is in fact left in the vehicle to contaminate the
> new oil

No Idea, 16 X what ever is in the lifters, and a couple of hundred ml for oil
galleries and good luck I guess. 0.5 - 1L I suppose? 

-- 

  Daryl

From Omar_Ghattas@PTARMIGAN.WARP.CS.CMU.EDU Mon Sep 04 23:48:53 1995 
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 95 23:48:53 -0400
From: Omar_Ghattas@PTARMIGAN.WARP.CS.CMU.EDU
Subject: 1996 U.S. Discovery engine?
I've heard that for the U.S., the 1996 Discovery will come with a 4.0L
V8, as opposed to the 3.9L of the 1995 model. Does anyone know
anything about this engine? Is it identical to the 4.0 of the current
Range Rover? 

The 1995 U.S. Disco and Range Rover engines differ little on paper (same
bore, stroke 1mm longer in the 4.0; 3947cc vs 3950cc displacement; max
horsepower of 182 for the 3.9 vs 190 for the 4.0; similar max
torques), but I understand that the Range Rover 4.0 engine has
redesigned fuel management, pistons, connecting rods, etc, and is thus
more refined and quieter. 

So is the 4.0L Discovery worth waiting for? Any other changes worth
mentioning? 

Many thanks,
Omar

========================================================================
Omar Ghattas                                 ghattas@cmu.edu
Computational Mechanics Laboratory           (412) 268-2949 (office)
Carnegie Mellon University                   (412) 268-2940 (secretary)
Pittsburgh, PA 15213                         (412) 268-7813 (fax) 

From "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com> Mon Sep 4 21:13:00 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 21:13:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Illegible ASCII Text
It's not just you, Robert.  The problem is probably the default line 
lengths and tab stop spacings.  These tend to lose a lot in translation.  
That's why we get weirdness instead of the pictures the authors/artists 
intended.

Shears!
John
San Francisco, California

On 4 Sep 1995, Robert Dennis wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Is it just me or has anyone else had trouble decifering the ASCII text that
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
>  Atlanta, GA USA
>  73363.427@Compuserve.com
>  04-Sep-1995

From rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Mon Sep 4 22:23:08 1995 
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 22:23:08 -0700
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
>From: jpappa01@interserv.com
>Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 19:53:18 PDT
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>and matching SS running boards. Remember that black was not a regular
>production code until `95 - which replaced the Arles Blue color of the `94
>models. Regular `95 MY black D90s have same equipment as every other D90...

My 1994 Bluga Black, Grey Leather Trim (Really black leather, dispite what
it says on the window sticker), optioned D90 is  number 1892.  Despite the
flyers floating around in late Aug./Sept, black D90's didn't make it to So.
Cal until Jan./Feb. of '95.  I know a few '95s actually beat the Black '94
into the San Diego dealership.  One day the SD dealership actually had 3 on
site.  Mine and someone elses in for 1000 mile check ups and some accessory
installs.  (Heard the someone elses one was obtained through
"connections"). The dealers also had one on the sales floor.  Kinda of hard
to make a "Limited Production" pitch that day.....  Fortunately, no one
bothered to add the stainless stuff to mine.
At both the SD and San Jose dealerships I got a number of "Where did you get
the Black D90?" questions. (Mission Viejo)  They seemed to be on the edge of
their seats waiting for theirs to arrive.  The saleman/owner of the Mission
Viejo dealer ship claimed the "Limited"  addition models were being held
back
as incentive for dealers to move to exclusively LR dealerships.  The
numbers he gave me were 80 Limited Addition D90's for 83 dealerships.  ( I
still ended up paying significantly less than sticker, probably wasn't
completely suckered anyway.  Actually had better deals going but liked the
Black.)  It did bum me
out that Bluga Black became a "standard" color in '95.  Did make it much
less limited.  Little things like cheapening "limited" additions like that
should be avoided in LRNA hopes to build customer loyalty.

>- The builders plate number between 19XX and the first `95's - also 19XX. The
>units are basically built in production batches... My `95 D90 is one of the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Latest models feature steering wheel chest pads with LR logo embossed into
>it...
Damn, I knew I should have waited.... ( Smiley for the humor impaired => :-) )

Thanks for the info.

-Rick
'94 D90

>cheerz
>Jim - Rover and out...
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>`95 D90 #1958
>`

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Mon Sep 04 22:05:34 1995 
Date: Mon, 04 Sep 1995 22:05:34 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Illegible ASCII Text
 Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com> writes:

>Is it just me or has anyone else had trouble decifering the ASCII text
...snip...
>I hate missing all the pictures especially after the effort that is put into
 them.<g>

 It's the same problem as in some text messages.  Endeavor to keep your lines
 at less than 80 characters total (78 is even better!).  Hard returns at each
 line help too.

        (\__/)  .~    ~. ))
        /O O  ./      .'
       {O__,   \    {
         / .  . )    \
         |-| '-' \    } ))
        .(   _(   )_.'
       '---.~_ _ _&

 Warning: Squirrels!

From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Tue Sep 5 15:28:57 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 15:28:57 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Trialing Regs
Steve points out that ARC Rules permit modification to Land-rovers for
trialing but do not permit the use of non-Rover powerplants:

Perhaps you could negotiate with the club to be allowed to run in the trial
but not "compete"? (ie not be "officially scored) Just a thought.

Here in Sth OZ we are really just getting started trialing wise.  We are
currently basing our "guidelines" on ARC Regs for lack of a better starting
point.  It will be many years before we graduate to the big league, at the
moment it is purely a "clubby" thing and not really taken all that seriously
(of course I say this, I got stuck and required winching during the last
trial:-(. 
One problem we will face is classifying engine mods.  Holden GM and to a lesser
degree Ford 6 and 8 cyl conversions are very common.  But should a 2.25L
holden 6 run in the same class as a 2.25L LR 4cyl or should it run in the
same class as a 3.3L holden 6, or 4.1L Ford six????

Currently these questions are academic for us but will pose a problem in the
future.. 

Maybe not however, we are finding that most of the top place getters in our
trials are driving standard rover fodder typically sIIa 109's and 80" SI's.
The occasional Disco/Rangie and Stage 1 pop up in the winners circles too.

oh well best of luck
-- 

  Daryl

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 5 06:36:18 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 06:36:18 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Smoky Diesel
Grahame Harden writes concerning his smoking diesel,
I don't currently drive a diesel so I can't give you many 
suggestions, but here are a few.

Make sure your air cleaner is not restricted, maybe attach a vacum
guage to the air intake to see what it reads. I don't know what it 
should be, but a little investigative work should find the answer. A 
quary where I used to work had little dash mounted vacume guages on 
their trucks so they'd know right away when an air filter needed 
changing.

If you do rebuild the pump, install a *good* fuel filter/water 
seperator. Even small amouts of water are bad for a pump. Racor is a 
very good filter. It filters dirt out down to a couple of microns and 
has a centrifugal action that seperates the water from the fuel and 
forces it to the bottom where it can be drained. You can also get 
them with a warning light to alert you to high water level.

Awhile back I asked about the timming chain-to-gear conversions and 
someone replied after he'd done his diesel that way, the MoT said it 
was the cleanest oil burning LR they'd seen.
Good luck.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 5 06:59:47 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 06:59:47 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Disco abuse
> What??? I bought my 30,000 D90 to use offroad. Thats what the Rigs where
> desiegned to do. Only Yuppies buy LR's and never use them in the dirt and
> mud. Thats not abuse its use.
> A Jeep? Why so you can get stuck?

Brian,
Read my reply carefully. Sure it's designed to be used off road. In 
fact I'm pissed at all the people who don't, because they're the ones 
that complained about SUV's rolling when they didn't know how to 
drive them and so drove up insurrance. What I was addressing was the  
statement "plan on truly abusing" it. I drive my Land Rovers many 
miles off road, but I don't *intentionally* (which is what you're 
doing if  you "plan" on it) abuse them because I want them to last.   
Even Land Rovers aren't indestructible. 
One of mine has been *unintentionally* abused a few times and it shows. 
But I only paid $700 for it. 
It's no skin off my nose if he wants to abuse his Disco, I just hate 
to see fine tools abused, that's all, hence my suggestion for a jeep 
if he wanted something to abuse.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Tue Sep 5 12:58:35 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 12:58:35 BST
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Deseasiel / Smokin'
Re:  Diesel problems...  Usual discalimers!!

I'm assuming it's a 2.286 diesel?
And first used post-August 1 1979 so is subject to full emissions 
test thingy?  (pre-this is not such a problem)

> I'd like to avoid having Lucas strip the pump, if it's not the
problem, but I feel it is.... anybody want to agree? Other
things I should look at, I mean I haven't had the timing cover
off to check the chain, gearing to the pump etc., at 50K...
seems not worth the hassle. Anybody tell me what wear the system
can tolerate. <

How many miles has the engine done?  Our latest had done 80K 
miles and despite some wear on the timing components, most 
notably the skew gear, everything was within spec.  Worth
bearing in mind, though, was that the engine had been regularly
serviced and treated nicely.  

If the engine (as well as pump) has done 50K then it should be 
fine in that respect unless it's been abused.  The only thing
worth doing as a matter of course if you have the thing apart is to
change the timing chain.

Even if everything is worn badly, you should be able to take up a 
huge amount of wear by twirling the pump about.  That doesn't cure
the smoke but when the timing drive is under load (and assuming the
chain isn't really loose) the error should be consistent, meaning you
can compensate for it.  From what I've seen so far, worn timing 
components seem to naff things up at idle rather than under load,
once you've done the adjustment.

> Other
things I should look at, I mean I haven't had the timing cover
off to check the chain, gearing to the pump etc., at 50K...
seems not worth the hassle <

If the components aren't worn and the engine is running at all
reasonably (smoke or no smoke) then the gearing to pump etc. is 
very probably OK.  If you get things a tooth out on any component 
it is fairly obvious.

Now - the nitty gritty.  

Black smoke under acceleration or load;  probably either injectors
or an over-advancing / over-delivering pump.

> The engine is quiet (well....) smooth and well up on go. <
                                            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If the engine seems to have enough power or 'go' then you
are probably getting too much fuel in it for some reason.
A properly adjusted 2286 diesel has no power or 'go'!!!
(that's why people alter 'em)

If the timing was too far advanced then there would be a lot
of diesel knock going on at higher revs.  Anything above 20 in 
2nd should be painful/impossible if the timing is far enough 
advanced to make that much black smoke.

If the arrow bolted to the block is pointing at the scribed mark
on the pump flange then things shouldn't be so badly out.  1-2mm
either side of the mark is an 'acceptable' adjustment.  Bear in
mind that this may have been tampered with by a p.o.

Injectors are 'cheap' (a tenner each to overhaul + washers etc.
on refit) and quick and you can usually do an exchange, fitting
them to the LR in the car park of the injector place.  Injectors
can last ages (50K+), but can go wrong in less than 15K miles for 
reasons unbeknown to me.

The pump is more expensive (75 quid or thereabouts to overhaul, 
assuming no bits are missing), but can make the most remarkable 
difference to the performance of the engine.  They tend to wear
so they over-advance, letting in too much fuel to the engine
too quickly, causing black smoke.  A good p.o. trick is to tweak
the maximum flow screw *very* slightly to get more power.  That
causes huge smoke when the engine gets a bit worn!

Other things - how old is the LR?  If it is (I think) post-1979
Series then it may have the infamous LR servo-assist brakes fitted.
The vacuum for the brakes is created by installing a butterfly
valve in the air inlet line just before the inlet manifold.  It is
actuated from the throttle linkage so it shuts when your foot 
comes off the accelerator - that creates low pressure to make the
brakes work marginally better.  The same effect causes the engine
to chuck out the most amazing amount of smoke.  Remove the valve
unit for all emissions/MOT tests.  The brakes will still work;
you just need to push very hard (so it will still pass the MOT)

No crankcase pressure probably means that the rings / valves / 
guides are OK, which could also be a source of black smoke.

Check the airfilter is filled to the correct level.  Discard the
airfilter for the MOT test if the garage doesn't mind.  Otherwise,
empty it of all the oil.  Get as much air into the engine as possible.

Adding a commercial smoke-stopper to the fuel will help reduce the
emissions, believe it or not.  Look out for 'cetane boosters', but
avoid cleaning agents if you can for the test itself, 'cause they
chuck out all sorts of stuff.  For the same reason certain types
of fuel will be (marginally) better for the test.

You can limit the maximum rpm of the engine by tweaking the 
throttle stop on the pump.  Press the accelerator whilst watching
the lever motion to work out which one it is.  If the thing has a 
no-fiddle cap wired on it (required by some MOT stations to check 
adjustment) then you'll have to carefully break the wire so
refitting looks 'genuine'.  Screwing the bolt in (CW) by about
10-15 turns should limit the engine to between 2800-3000 rpm instead
of the factory suggested 4400.  This saves your engine in the test, 
too, because when they floor it it never comes near the limit of 
its performance.  Remember how you adjust it so you can put it back.
Most MOT stations may comment on the lack of rpm, but just maintain that
that is how you use it.  They can't really argue.  Ditto for airfilter.

Re : oxgenating fuel.  I have it on good authority that a 1:30 mix
of petrol:diesel will not harm your engine, and that ? 10% paraffin
of the correct cetane level will not harm it either for short periods 
of time.  I **haven't tried these methods** but would be interested
if anyone has any further information.

For the test itself, over-advancing an engine with good compression 
may help reduce the level of black smoke by giving the fuel longer
to burn.  Make sure you limit the engine's rpm if you do this because
the engine will knock badly and self destruct if you rev. it near the
top end.

Notes on smokemeters : they measure the visual obscurity of the smoke.
Black and blue are worse than grey or white.

Approximate experience with 2286 diesels and smokemeter readings...

At beginning - 9%K   (God knows what K is) = slightly excessive black smoke

Remove airfilter, limit engine to 3500rpm, overhaul injectors, 
remove brake vacuum-assist-nightmare-thing-from-the-devil-device,
get engine really hot - 4.5%K = perfectly acceptable black smoke.
(but not in the eyes of the Law!)

Engine blew up due to ring failure.

Following running in, same pump/injectors etc @3500 rpm limit - 4%K

Overhaul pump - <1%K, irresepective of rpm.  Much less power and 'go'.

Pass MOT!!  Hoorah.

Not sure what else to add.  Be careful out there.
Make sure you get it tested before 25 September if it was first
used after 1 August 1979 as the emissions standards are becoming stricter.

Get in touch if you need more advice.

All the best,
Andy Grafton
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

P.S. Two more things.  

a) If all else fails, you can always 'rebuild your
car on an older chassis' to make it older than it is 
so it will not be subject to emissions tests.

b) The smoke test is highly subjective and dependent on
tester's interpretation of the MOT guidelines.  Mail me
if you want an opinion on how to choose a tester...

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 5 07:12:12 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 07:12:12 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Exhaust wrap
Sandy grice writes:
Snip
> fitting the stuff :-(  Anyway, I'd reccommend it to anyone trying to keep 
> their feet cooler - it really works.  Cheers

A bit of warning though. In my experience, using that wrap on regular 
pipe will lead to rust failure in short order. I used it on a header 
and it rusted out within a year. Apparently it's real good at holding 
moisture.
But on SS or aluminized pipe, I agree, it's great! You can actually 
hold your hand on the pipe.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From mfarrall@well.ox.ac.uk (Martin Farrall) Tue Sep 5 13:34:58 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 13:34:58 +0100
From: mfarrall@well.ox.ac.uk (Martin Farrall)
Subject: Replacing the visous coupled fan
I've bought a Kenlowe electric fan for the wife's TDi Disco and will be
fitting this when I can get a free weekend.  The existing fan seems to
be very tightly mounted to the waterpump spindle (I note from the
workshop manual that it is a lefthanded thread).  Presumably it has got
tighter and tighter over the 36K miles of the engines life to date.

Any tips on shifting the bugger will be gratefully digested before I
let my "chums" loose on it who are used to dealing with trucks and
tractors.

Any other tips on fiting the fan will also be appreciated.

Martin Farrall

From "John J. Tackley" <jtackley@dit2.state.va.us> Tue Sep 5 08:33:34 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 08:33:34 -0500
From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley@dit2.state.va.us>
Subject:       '92 Range Rover 4S
It is regrettable but necessary for me to offer my '92 Range Rover 
"Classic" for sale (located in richmond, virginia).  I have not, as yet advertised
 elsewhere as I prefer to sell to an LR/RR enthusiast, someone who appreciates
 the marque.  Any one interested can obtain pertinent details by 
email at - jtackley@dit.state.va.us or 804.744.8920 after 7pm est..
John J. Tackley  (804) 344-5930

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 5 07:37:26 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 07:37:26 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Diesel/petrol mix
Andy Grafton writes:
> Re : oxgenating fuel.  I have it on good authority that a 1:30 mix
> of petrol:diesel will not harm your engine, and that ? 10% paraffin
> of the correct cetane level will not harm it either for short periods 
> of time.  I **haven't tried these methods** but would be interested
> if anyone has any further information.

I've used Diesel/Parrifin mix a lot in the winter with no ill 
results. It helps to lower the gel point of diesel.
I wasn't really carefull about the ratio, just a couple gallons of 
parrifin then top it off with diesel. I believe you can go as high as 
50:50 though.
 In really cold areas it's apparently common to add a bit of petrol for the same 
reason. *But*, you must be very careful as too much petrol will 
destroy the engine. *!BANG!*

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Tue Sep 05 08:52:00 1995 
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 95 08:52:00 DST
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: BULLbars
Why are they called bullbars? Surely the current/recent thread should make 
this obvious.

Trevor Easton

From "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 05 95 Sep EDT
 1908 
Date: 05 Sep 95 08:55:27 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Another Celebrity Owner
Got another celebrity owner for the list...

John Laroquette has a 109 pickup on his ranch in Idaho and is having an 88
restored for him (I saw the 88).  He apparentl;y loves Land Rovers.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Tue Sep 05 09:18:24 1995 
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 95 09:18:24 EST
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Subject: Oxygenated Fuels
Have noticed that a fuel additive is now commercially 
available (STP?) that is meant to be added to oxygenated 
fuels.  Current owner's manuals warn against oxygenated 
fuels, but many of us in urban areas are forced by law to 
buy them during winter months.  My dealer checked with LRNA, 
who said as long as you're using proper octane of namebrand 
petrol, your engine and warranty are safe.  Still, I want to 
know what the collective Wisdom of the List think about use 
of the addative versus having the 3.9i dring the bogus 
"green" gasoline.

Regards,
Hank

From LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil> Tue Sep 5 9:09:22 1995 
Date:     Tue, 5 Sep 95 9:09:22 EDT (1309Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Heaters
To all,

I know, I know, Summer's not really over yet, but...
 I need some help.  I've got a '72 Petrol Series III.  Is there an aftermarket 
hose leading from the water control valve to the water pipe?  Took it down this
weekend to replace with standard heater hose.  Guess what, two different sized 
ends.  Second, does anyone have a used heater fan (just the fan, not the whole 
blower assy.) or know if there is a suitable substitute?  Mine is starting to 
self-destruct.

Thanks!

Larry

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 5 08:55:06 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 08:55:06 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Heaters
 Larry Smith writes: 
> I know, I know, Summer's not really over yet, but...
>  I need some help.  I've got a '72 Petrol Series III.  Is there an aftermarket 
> hose leading from the water control valve to the water pipe?  Took it down this
> weekend to replace with standard heater hose.  Guess what, two different sized 
> ends.
 Snip
Larry,
NAPA (as do other parts suppliers I'm sure) sells adaptors for heater hose 
1/2x5/8; 5/8x3/4; etc

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> 5 95 Sep EDT
 1910 
Date:  5 Sep 95 10:22:31 EDT
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Heat wraps, exhaus follies and an idea
In seeing the discussion on the heat wrap and heat
shield issue for Series vehicles, I am struck by an idea (THUNK!)

Ow...

WHat does everyone think of the concept of a metal shield
made of large-diameter exhaust pipe, split and fitted around the
offending bit of pipe under the floorboards? It would have
the advantage of not retaining moisture and would deflect/
rechannel the heat away from my carpeting...I know, I'm a wimp...<grin>

Opinions? -ajr

From jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben) Tue Sep 5 10:15:53 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 10:15:53 EDT
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: 109" roof racks
Does anyone know of good used roof racks for a 109" ?
How much should I expect to pay for one?

Thanks
Jan

From jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben) Tue Sep 5 10:18:36 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 10:18:36 EDT
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: ethno-centric roof racks
Sorry, peoples!
I forget that there is World outside of NJ (good for it, too!)

I am looking for the 109" roof racks in NE USA.
Jan

From "Johan Jacobs" <J_Jacobs@msn.com> Tue Sep 5 14:57:59 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 14:57:59 UT
From: "Johan Jacobs" <J_Jacobs@msn.com>
Subject: Weaber Carburetor
I have a Ser IIIS with a Cevy 4.1, 6cyl engine conversion with a notoriously 
thirsty Rochester carburetor. I want to put a Weaber carburetor on but am in 
the dark as to the differences between the different Weaber carburetors.

When looking at the twin throat Weaber 38 DGAS, I notice that both the 
throats open when pulling down on the accelerator lever. Comparing this with 
the twin throat Weaber 36 DCD, where first the one throat opens and then the 
other when more power is needed.

My question is what is the advantage or 
disadvantage between the two different models, and which one is more suitable 
for use on this engine?. Does the fact that throats of the 36 open separately 
VS the throats of the 38 opening simultaneously have any bearing or can one 
offset the 38's throat gears so that they also open separately?. Which one 
will provide the most power and not use more fuel than my current 
carburetor?. Are the standard jets fine for this motor or will they have to 
be replaced and if so with what?. Does the numbers 38 and 36 have any 
significance, and if so what?.

If there are any Weaber experts out there I 
would appreciate some advice.

Johan Jacobs		E-mail :J_Jacobs@msn.com
103 
Cedarwood		Voice : +27 21 5318026
Derby Road		Fax : +27 21 5316766

Kenilworth		1984 Ser IIIS 109 S/W
Cape Town
Republic of South Africa
7700

From Sanna@aol.com Tue Sep 5 11:28:48 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:28:48 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo
 >???  Your insurance paid for the livestock hit?  

Actually, they refused the claim.  But I told the rancher I would, so I did.

Tony

From "R. Pierce Reid" <PREID@csi.compuserve.com> 05 95 Sep EDT
 1911 
Date: 05 Sep 95 11:45:57 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <PREID@csi.compuserve.com>
Subject: Roverworks Lawsuit?
Does anyone know of a pending lawsuit against RoverWorks of (of formerly of)
Hyde Park New York.  From what I gather, there are about 5 owners who have filed
a class-action suit for restoration work.  
Anyone know anything?

R. P. Reid

From Chris Haslam <haslam@concordia.ca> Tue Sep 5 11:47:15 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:47:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Haslam <haslam@concordia.ca>
Subject: RR Electrical Problems
I am an electrical engineer with an 88 RR, so perhaps I can help.

Basically, you must have a voltage drop in some connection: 1 volt is 
enough to cause some trouble.  Alternatively, if the alternator isn't 
putting out 13.2 volts (or so) ...

I find a digital voltmeter is the best tool.  I also use a 15-foot clip 
lead, which is normally connected to the negative side of the battery.  If 
you have the Owner's Manual, I expect it includes a wiring diagram.  I have 
made my own use - for easy diagnosis - a set of wiring diagrams: they group 
the wiring functionally.  I previously made diagrams for the 79 RR and the 80 
SD1, and found them invaluable.  

I'm willing to make them available to all.  They are graphics images (PCX 
files) plus indexes, etc. in WordPerfect.  Not all is 100% clear from the 
User's Manual, so the diagrams will become more accurate as I have to 
solve wiring problems, etc.!

The question is: how to I make them available?  I know how, basically, 
(being also a computer guru) but the problem is logistics.  I don't intend to
start a WWW home page just yet.

If there is enough interest ...

For a few people, I'm willing to mail them - if those people cover my 
costs (say $5 bill).  The diagrams are (close to) publication quality, 
and are normally 8 1/2" by 11".  There are about 9 sheets, plus indexes.  
I also keep a reduced-size set in the vehicle.

When I have a few minutes, I'll take a look at JCassidy's problem, to see if
anything strikes me.  He may wish to contact me directly.

...chris

From LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil> Tue Sep 5 11:39:23 1995 
Date:     Tue, 5 Sep 95 11:39:23 EDT (1539Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  Heaters
Alan,

Thanks!  The fan blades are made of plastic.  Over time the plastic has become 
brittle from sunlite.  The hub has significant cracks and a blade and a half 
have departed (and you think rocks thrown from the tires into the wheelarches 
makes noise!!)

What I'd like to do is simply pull the old fan & put in another.  The motor, 
bearings, etc are in relatively good shape.  Do have some corrosion in the 
bottom of the box, but think I can fix that.

'til later,

Larry

From LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil> Tue Sep 5 11:46:22 1995 
Date:     Tue, 5 Sep 95 11:46:22 EDT (1546Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  Heaters
Tom,

Sorry for the brain cramp.  Didn't even think of adaptors, was in a one hose 
mentality.  Will stop by after work & see what they have.

Thanks!

Larry

From burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) Tue Sep 5 08:58:25 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 08:58:25 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: LRNA Rally
Just thought I would take some time to rehash some of the events on the LRNA
rally.I pulled a 3500 lbs trailer out west with the D-90. I loaned the
R-Rover to a friend so he could pack his three kid, and wife in the Rover
and experience rovering first hand.
The D-90 pulls great....
Broke the D-90 in the black hills, ran over 300 harleys.... just kidding,
but is was possible. Really I drove it up a tree. Seems that someone left a
tree over the trail, I was trying to get around it by driving over it. As
the path I choose was up a steep side hill I could not the passenger rear
wheel over the tree. So I gave it some welly as the saying goes. All that
did was scoot me along the tree rather fast. When I finally did come to a
stop I was stuck with the frame resting on the  tree, and the passenger side
front wheel 3 feet in the air....
A little work with a hi lift jack and we were rolling again. So I cheated
and piled rocks in strategic places after I got  unstuck.
The rally was great, and I thought  Todd would write about his trek, as he
is much more eloquent with words than I. (I did not flunk all those English
courses for nothing) It seems that Todd started the rally with only first,
and fourth gear. I noticed this on a steep descent when he attempted to use
second, and his speed increased for 2 mph to 30 mph.
Some of his brakes work, because  soon he was sliding sideways down the
trail, and brought the  109 out of orbit. On one of the stops we noticed
that Todds rear spring was about to fall off.  As I usually have the part
needed I dug through my junk, and came up with the proper nut Todd was missing.
We re bolted the spring hanger, and I proceeded to leave all my precious
junk on top of the mountain.(it was a better trip up the trail, than down)
Later I was following Todds 109 back into town, and Todd stopped, had his
significant other move the boulder from the front floor to under the front
wheel (Real hand brake), and was peering  under the car. So we all , my wife
Joyce, and daughter and I, got out and peered with him. every thing  looked
great. Todds explained that there were some strange noise, and  clanks
coming from under the  109. I thought  it might be the spring hanger hanging
up, so weproceeded down the road another 100 yards. Again out came Todds
Passenger with the parkingrock, and my group all piled out, and then we saw
the problem.... oil coming out  ofthe rear diff case. Gee there shouldn't be
a whole there. It seems we broke a ring gear or somethingand put it out the
back of the diff case. We then proceeded to dismantle the 109. Out came 2
axles, more oil, and a rear drive shaft. We plugged most of the holes, and
added more oil, piled every one, and the parking rock inside and proceeded
back  to the camp site in low range. Seems that it would only drive in low
range. I  suggested applying the hand brake and driving in high, but Todd
wasn't sure how putting the
rock under the front wheel was going to help....
But it did get Todd home.

Russ Burns
Had a great time..
91 R-Rover
94 D-90
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

From matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Tue Sep 5 09:00:11 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 09:00:11 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: RR electrical probs
Wiper use suggests rain.  Perhaps you've had water infiltration through your 
windshield seal, into a relay panel or fuse box.  Water could easily explain 
mysterious problems that get more numerous over time.

-Matt

From sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Tue Sep 5 16:54:18 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 16:54:18 BST
From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: Heretic!
Just thought I would post a reply I received on the UK LRO net.
As usual it all comes down to insurance!

 On  4 Sep 95, sreddock@vnet.ibm.com wrote:

 > The long and short of it was that if I joined the club I couldn't enter
 > any competitions.  Apparently my lightweight isn't good enough for them.
 >
 > The problem lies with the engine.  A year ago I went playing in the mud
 > at Cannock and sucked an air filter full of water into the engine.  It
 > got me home but not much further.  Time for a new engine.
 The problem indeed lies with the engine.

 The competition insurance is underwritten by the ARC, and they have strict
 rules reguarding vehicles (it's all in the ARC handbook ;-)

 Section B (Standard Class Regulations)

 B.1.1      The engine shall be positioned at the location of the original
 engine.
 B.1.2      The original production standard cylinder head(s) and block
 shall be used subject to paragraph
 B.1.3      Alternative engines or engine parts which may be interchanged are:-
        Original			 Acceptable replacement
        1.6 and 2 litre			 Rover 60.
        2.25 litre			 Rover 80.
        2.6 litre				 Any Rover P4 range.
        R/Rover, Discovery 	Any Rover Group or British Leyland V8 aluminium
 	and LWB V8			 engine,regardless of capacity.

 B.1.4       Non-standard carburation is allowed subject to the original
 number of carburettors fitted not being exceeded and original standard
 inlet manifolds are used.
 B.1.5    Petrol injection and forced induction petrol engines are prohibited
 except where factory fitted.
 B.1.6   The fitting of slide throttles and the inhibition of the firing of
 one or more cylinders to gain advantage is prohibited

 The only way around the problem is to join a Non-ARC club (like the AWDC)

 AWDC: PO box 6, Fleet, Hants. GU14 9YL

 (BTW - during my copius spare time (NOT) I'm putting the ARC regs on line
 - check http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/arc/

      ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University.
  <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 5 11:34:54 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:34:54 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo
> From:          Sanna@aol.com

>  >???  Your insurance paid for the livestock hit?  
> Actually, they refused the claim.  But I told the rancher I would, so I did.
> Tony

That's interesting. You said that it was free range country? Did the 
insurance co. know this? Did you press them on it? My understanding 
of the law in free range areas is that you are liable for the 
livestock even if you didn't agree to it up front. 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 5 11:44:39 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:44:39 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: RR Electrical Problems
> The question is: how to I make them available?  I know how, basically, 
> (being also a computer guru) but the problem is logistics.  I don't intend to
> start a WWW home page just yet.

How about zipping them and sending directly to interested parties as a 
UUEncoded attachment. Feel free to experiment with me, I'd be 
interested in seeing them.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 5 11:48:29 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:48:29 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Heat wraps, exhaus follies and an idea
Snip
> WHat does everyone think of the concept of a metal shield
> made of large-diameter exhaust pipe, split and fitted around the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> rechannel the heat away from my carpeting...I know, I'm a wimp...<grin>
> Opinions? -ajr

I think it should help, after all the diesel came stock in the US 
with such a device fitted to the front pipe in the wheel arch.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 5 12:01:12 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 12:01:12 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Stainless fuel tanks
Both tanks on my lightweight leak so I'm thinking of biting the 
bullet and replacing them with SS ones. Since I don't have the 
facilities to do *quality* stainless welding (high freq TIG, argon 
purge, etc) I'll have to resort to a shop.
In order to get them a little cheaper, is there anyone out there that 
would be interested in a SS tank for their Series? This would be for 
the underseat tank *only* as the only way for it to be cheaper is for 
them all to be the same. I'd do this for the cost of the tank + 
shipping + $5-$10 for my time. 
This isn't definite yet as it depends on how much they would cost, 
but I'm guessing $175-$200. Could be less, could be more, but I'd 
like to get a feel for whether or not there is any interest. I expect 
they could be with either the standard little filler tube or a screw 
on cap type filler soldered in as the stock reserve tank is.
So these would fit SIIA-SIII 88 or as a reserve tank for the 109.
If you're interested, e-mail me direct to save the list's bandwidth.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) 05 1995 Sep GMT
 1917 
Date: 05 Sep 1995 17:21:22 GMT
From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: Lack of Power on Cold Start
Again, sorry if this is a repeat post.  The problem is as bad as ever though:

Does anyone out there have any experience with lack of power when starting
from cold? 
Our '71 Series IIA started to exhibit this problem about a month or so ago
and the problem seems to be getting worse.  It does this even in the hottest
weather, 90+ degrees, and the choke does not help much (it runs smoothly but
there is no *power* untill it warms up).   
It simply does not have enough power to move the car unless you really gun
the engine, and even then it sputters & jerks a bit.  
I have the timing set at about 5 degrees BTDC and have tried using all three
grades of gas to no avail.  Should I try advancing the timing a bit? (haven't
had time lately)
Any other ideas would be much appreciated.  

Thanks in advance,
Fred

From Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) 05 1995 Sep GMT
 1917 
Date: 05 Sep 1995 17:29:46 GMT
From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: Replacing Busted Half Shafts
Does anyone have any advice on changing a busted half shaft on a '71 88"? 
Should I change them both while I'm at it?  Is there anything else I should
do while in there?  What else do I need to order?  Any fun surprises to look
forward to?  
I busted it with a FULL load of very heavy furnishings packed in and on the
Rover.  Had to stop on a  steep hill for an idiot who was double parked.  Put
it in low range to start up again and... BOOM, started rolling backwards. 
Finished the trip in FWD but figure its probably not a great idea to drive it
much with all sorts of stuff grinding around the diff now.  

Thanks,
Fred

From Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) 05 1995 Sep GMT
 1917 
Date: 05 Sep 1995 17:16:45 GMT
From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: overheating
Sorry if this is a repeat, my service provider went belly up for awhile:

A couple of weeks ago we were driving back to Boston from Maine and our '71
IIA overheated for no apparent reason.  I had the heater blower on high (with
coolant flow shut off) to help cool my feet when I felt a blast of hot air,
looked down, and the temp. gauge was pasted in the red.  

I rolled off the freeway directly into a gas station (couldn't have happened
in a more convenient place) & started hosing off the radiator & eventually
the engine.  Water boiled right off the radiator.  It was HOT.  Also, I
opened up the heater flow valve & ran the heater on high - but no more hot
air came out.

Eventually it cooled down, I refilled the radiator, and we were back on our
way (with one eye each glued to the temp gauge).  We've had no problems
since.  Was this just a case of a stuck thermostat (it's new, only about five
months old)?  Should I change the oil after overheating it so severely (I had
changed it the day before this happened)?  

Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Fred

From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> 5 95 Sep EDT
 1913 
Date:  5 Sep 95 13:59:10 EDT
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo
Nowwaitadoggoneminute.

If I'm driving in free-range country and old Bossy
decides to immolate herself on the front of my car,
it's MY responsibility?

If that's the case, I'm staying in New England...

   aj"Mooooove over..."r

From Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com> Tue Sep 5 11:49:29 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 11:49:29 MDT
From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: White Whales & Black Paint
grea@net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) asks:

  I have one trivial question that must be cleared up.  Jeff Gauvin
  writes that one of the options of his D90 is "Beluga Black Paint".
  Seems to me that "Beluga" is Russian for "White (Belo of Byelo) Whale"
  What does this colour "White Whale Black" paint look like?

"Beluga" is also another name for the Sturgeon fish, from which one gets
Beluga Caviar, which not coincidently, is also black.  This is the
connection LRNA was trying to make (I think).

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 5 13:18:39 1995 
Date:          Tue, 5 Sep 1995 13:18:39 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo
Alan asks in amazement:
> Nowwaitadoggoneminute.
> If I'm driving in free-range country and old Bossy
> decides to immolate herself on the front of my car,
> it's MY responsibility?

That's my understanding from visiting that part of the country in the 
early '70's and from my dad growing up there. Now, I could be wrong or 
they may have changed it, but apparently cows have the right-of-way. 
As opposed to NE where if there is a cow in the road it's the farmer's 
responsibility because there's a broken fence somewhere.

Any Rover owning ranchers out there got the definitive answer?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org> Tue Sep 05 14:33:27 1995 
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 95 14:33:27 EST
From: "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org>
Subject: Re: Bull Bars and Bambi and Skippy
        Daryl writes:
        
        >'Ol Skip head butts the car knocks himself out and falls under the rear 
        >tyre.... and over we go.  Seen lots of badly damaged panels on curb 
        >side of cars following "Run ins" with Heavy metal affected skippys, 
        >even seen one skip stagger up shake his head a few times and hop rather 
        >unsteadily away after totalling both passenger doors and the rear 
        >quarter panel on a Land-cruiser....
        
        Daryl, you worried me... thought at first this message was about me from 
        my younger drinking days - according to some of my friends(?) it could 
        have been.  Always wondered where the tire (sorry - tyre) tracks came 
        from... :*)
        
        I agree with Michael Carradine - it's great to hear from 'Down Under'.
        
        Skip Wharton
        From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA

From Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> Tue Sep 5 11:37:07 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 11:37:07 PDT
From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Mendicino
Re: Mendicino Nat Forest

What a great trip to Mendicino National Forest, the best part was meeting
the caravan of Land-Rover folks that were also going through the Mendicino
area. You guys need to email me and remind me of all your names. I won't
forget my girlfriend pointing out a land-rover coming down the road, then
another, then another.... 

Also, who was the guy that said I had sissy dust on my Def-90? Well I guess
I need to wait for the rain to start to get all that **MUD** on my truck.

For the last night camping we went back into mendicino by Stonywood (I think
that's the name) and went toward the snow mountain wilderness area, I found 
a spot labeled "OHV Play Area, use at your own risc". It turned out to be 
a lot of fun, they had roads ready made with all types of off-road challenges,
I had never heard of a "Play Area" for off-road before, but I will definately
go back.

We definately need to go on a group trip somewhere.

Leland Roys
Cupertino, CA.
94 Defender-90 (Red)
roys@cup.hp.com

From burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) Tue Sep 5 11:44:22 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 11:44:22 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo
Yep,
open range, you are driving thu their pasture....
Now in Connecticut if you keep the deer, the insurance does not
have to pay.
Now to add to this thread..
If you really was do demostrate the effectivness of a roo moo bar,
run into an ELK. When you see the rear end of an elk about
eye level in a Range Rover, you will not only be happy for the
roo, moo, bambi bar, but start wishing it was 2 feet taller.
Russ Burns
91 Range Rover
94 D-90

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Nowwaitadoggoneminute.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>If that's the case, I'm staying in New England...
>   aj"Mooooove over..."r
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

From "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu> Tue Sep 5 12:59:48 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 12:59:48 -0600 (MDT)
From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: White Whales & Black Paint
One says:
  Seems to me that "Beluga" is Russian for "White (Belo of Byelo) Whale"
  What does this colour "White Whale Black" paint look like?
Another responds:
 "Beluga" is also another name for the Sturgeon fish, from which one gets
 Beluga Caviar, which not coincidently, is also black.  This is the
 connection LRNA was trying to make (I think).

LRNA was right on both counts:  a whale of a car, and as rarified and expensive as 
caviar.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

From "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu> Tue Sep 5 13:58:09 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 13:58:09 -0600 (MDT)
From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: LRNA Rally
Russ rites (Wruss writes?):

< The rally was great, and I thought  Todd would write about his trek, as he
< is much more eloquent with words than I. 

Sorry -- haven't had time.  I must say Russ is much more eloquent with tools than 
I am!

< It seems that Todd started the rally with only first, and fourth gear.

... and no brakes, which unnerved the spotters in front of me...
... and a headpipe which fell off the first day of the rally -- the day after I 
had just fixed it from the last time it fell off ...

< that Todds rear spring was about to fall off.  As I usually have the part
< needed I dug through my junk, and came up with the proper nut Todd was missing.

Yep, I'm missing a lot of nuts -- and marbles.  (That's third time in a year that 
the same spring has come apart.)

< back  to the camp site in low range. Seems that it would only drive in low
< But it did get Todd home.

Amazing how a Land Rover can get home with half the guts missing.  My wallet hurts 
more than it does.  (Strange though, how my car likes bouncing off rocks, but 
can't handle the highway.)

So ... why was Russ following me all the time?  It's not like my car drops gold 
nuggets...

Well, what he doesn't mention is that he got the Good Samaritan award for always 
stopping and helping jerks who insist on driving heaps that are less than 
road-worthy.  (Our friend the lightning rod wasn't there this year, so I volunteered.)

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

From Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com> Tue Sep 5 11:51:14 1995 
Date: Tue,  5 Sep 95 11:51:14 TZ
From: Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Brush/Bull guard testimony
Well, I used to like them, though after the past couple of days, I'm 
not so sure...

a) they do reduce your approach angle. This weekend, at the ABFM in 
Portland, Or, I was a little wild on the obstacle course and got 
carried away on some moguls. In the process I put a nasty dent on the 
bottom horiz. bar of the brush bar.  If it hadn't been there I suspect 
only the air dam would have been hit, and at  worst knocking it off.

b) they stick out. Today, I rear-ended a car in traffic and the 
horizontal bar that sticks out in front of the brush bar made a dent in 
the back of the unfortunate car in front of me. Again, if it hadn't 
been there. our bumpers would have bumped and, at worst, wrinkling the 
little plastic cover they stick on the front of the bumper.

So, while there may be some positive anectodes, I'm not as impressed as 
I was a short time ago with the brush bar. IMHO, it's got more "look" 
value than anything else. Especially considering how it's mounted to 
the frame. I certainly wouldn't try "nudging" with it as it's name implies.

On the plus side, the Disco is still an impressive machine. After 
bounding around the obstacle course this weekend, (and I do mean 
Bounding!) I'm still amazed at a) the Disco's capabilities b) how 
effortless it makes off-road driving!

Also I enjoyed meeting some of the "net.rovers" down at the Portland 
ABFM ss well. What a great bunch.

-- Bob W.
95 Discovery
 

From Sanna@aol.com Tue Sep 5 17:05:02 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 17:05:02 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo
>> Actually, they refused the claim.  But I told the rancher I would, so I
did.

 >>But did you have to if you had not promised this & insurance
 refused the claim?

Hey, I'm a nice guy.  I was young back them.  I did it just because I told
him I would.  But he didn't hold me liable beyond the insurance claim.

Actually, he said that I was the first person ever to stop and find him after
killing one of his cows.

Tony

From kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood) Tue Sep 5 14:17:16 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 14:17:16 -0700
From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Subject: 7500 mile checkup, was Re: Jeeps And Other Mistakes
On Aug 30, 10:10am, Robert Watson (CNA) wrote:
> Subject: Re: Jeeps And Other Mistakes
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Service to be in the neighborhood quoted below. I still have 4000 miles
> to wait on this, though.

I just called my dealer's service manager. He quoted $45 which includes full
lube, oil, and filter, belt checks, fluid checks and topoffs (of every
possible orifice/liquid/fill point). He also said if anything is leaking
(after 6000 miles, I have a few drops hanging from under several
joints/seals) they will replace it under warranty. I said why not just
tighten it down. He says they normally find that tightening pans and seals
etc, seems to make the problem worse as the gasket gets distended or some
such, and that it was better, esp. since it is under warranty, to just
replace the questionable item. Gee, given the leaky history of LRs I expect
to have a whole new drive line and suspension every couple of months!!!!!

> -- Bob Watson
> '95 Disco
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> | $39??? I have been told around $250 by several folks. Wow!!!
>-- End of excerpt from Robert Watson (CNA)

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

From Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> Tue Sep 5 14:45:38 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 14:45:38 PDT
From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Def-90 7500 service
Wow! I definately feel like I was taken, I paid $247 + tax for my 7500
service on my Def-90, I wondered why it cost so much considering all they
did was basically an oil change, next time I am going to do it myself.

Leland Roys
Cupertino, CA
1994 Defender-90
roys@cup.hp.com

From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Tue Sep 5 18:01:03 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 18:01:03 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Exhaust upgrades
I can't get over the *improvement* that fiberglass exhaust wrap has made.  
Now, I even think it has increased the *alternator's* output.  About a year 
ago, I had the Lucas 18ACR alternator rebuilt (which included a new "Freight 
Rover" rectifier/regulator).  After the rebuild, it would put out 13.8 volts 
when cold, but drop off to 12.5 or so when the engine came up to 
temperature.  On the test bed at the electrical shop, it performed 
flawlessly over a half hour run; I suspected heat might be the reason, but I 
couldn't simulate engine heat for the test.

Anyway, the wrap seems to keep a good deal of radiant heat away from the 
rectifier - it's very close by.  The alternator is now doing its 13.8 volt 
thing, even after a long, hot run - and the only thing touched is the new 
pipe and wrap. 'Nuff said.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Tue Sep 05 14:56:01 1995 
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 1995 14:56:01 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Left Coast Rovers (Was: Mendicino)
 Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> writes:

>What a great trip to Mendicino National Forest, ... I won't
 forget my girlfriend pointing out a land-rover coming down the road, then
 another, then another.... 

>I had never heard of a "Play Area" for off-road before, but I will definately
 go back.  We definately need to go on a group trip somewhere.

 Leland,

 Sounds like that caravan was probably organized on the Left Coast Rover
 Network.  Write Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>
 and ask to join the mailing list, and in a few days you'll get all the
 local news and mail :)  Next event-- All British meet in Palo Alto,
 Sunday Sep. 10, 1995, 9 AM'ish, east side of El Camino Real across from
 the Stanford Shopping Center.  Judging from the Hayward meet, maybe 40+
 Rovers out of 200 British cars. 
 
 Also, here's some info on California OHVR areas, recently posted on the
 Left Coast Rover Network:

 For the Off-Highway challenged, the State of California Department
 of Parks and Recreation has a WWW page showing its State Vehicular
 Recreational Areas (SVRA) providing information on address, hours,
 fee, description, and allowed vehicle types, while also linking to
 up-to-date weather data for each of six parks listed.  In Southern
 California are Ocotillo Wells, Hungry Valley, and Pismo Dunes; and
 in Northern California are Hollister, Carnegie,  and Prairie City.
 SVRA's are at http://agency.resource.ca.gov/parks/ohv/default.html

 For the free map Guide to Off-Highway Vehicle Areas of California,
 locating some 200 OHV areas statewide write California Off-Highway
 Motor Vehicle Recreation (OHMVR), Div. of California State Parks &
 Recreation, 1416 Ninth Street, PO Box 942896, Sacramento, CA 94296
 916-653-9072, fax 916-653-2564.  Also free are trail guides to the
 state's seven State Vehicle Recreation Areas (SVRAs).   California
 OHV Guidebook (about 200 pages), with maps and written information
 to some 100,000 miles of trails throughout California is available
 for $8.00 (tax and postage included). This division also publishes
 The Green Sticker Vehicle, a tabloid with information on  OHMVR's,
 SVRAs, and other riding areas funded by the OHV grants program and
 is available upon request.  

 Michael Carradine         ?           '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                _\    __      http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                          [__[__[__]
 _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________

From TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Wed Sep 6 07:28:47 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 07:28:47 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Bull bars etc
A few years ago I found another use for the bullbar when
leaving a pay carpark.  After paying the attendant at the
exit he pressed the button to raise the boom gate which
went up, then came straight back down.  By this time I was
already moving and needless to say the boom gate disintegrated
into lots of very small pieces.  This happened twice more
with that vehicle (SIIA SWB softtop), although with a little
less damage the next time as I was ready for it.
My theory is that the electromagnetic detector under the fllor
did not register the vehicle due to high ground clearance plus
aluminium body.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

From Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com> 05 95 Sep EDT
 1920 
Date: 05 Sep 95 20:24:53 EDT
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: Lucas Strikes Again!
In my continuing battles again Lucas the god of darkness, I seem to have lost
the oil level control unit(PRC 5434) in my '90 RR. Actually this was made by
Lucas' sidekick Jaeger. My oil level light would blink each time I started the
car, even though the oil level was correct. The dealer says it is this control
unit and that a new one is $450 plus labor. Rover's North said it would be
$340? Needless to say I would rather keep my $ and check the oil myself, so
they simply disconnected the unit, and the light is no longer functional.
ANYWAY, I pulled this unit out last week and opened it up. It looks like my
$340 buys me what appears to be $10 in parts from Rat Shack. I don't know
enough about electronics to be able to fix this thing, if this is indeed the
culprit. (I have never been to impressed with my dealer) Does anyone have a
suggestion of where I might find one cheaper, or know how I might go about
getting it fixed? I hate to have things not working on my vehicles, even if it
is something as trivial as this.

 P.S. I have tried to find a wreck in my area but have not been successful.

 Rob Dennis
 Atlanta, GA USA
 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 05-Sep-1995

From "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 05 95 Sep EDT
 1921 
Date: 05 Sep 95 21:12:02 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Manual
 My 109 and spares have finally arrived from the UK, less the certificate of
export from the customs, can;t register it until I get this sorted.

 Amongst my effects I have  a surplus to requirements  mint condition  Range
Rover reparatienhandboek for2 door models. it is part number akm 4084.
 An offer is invited from a Dutch reader, to include postage from the US.

  Dave asks about studs in the timing cover, there are two stud holes in the
front left and two in  the right side for  the fittting of the capstan winch
drive support bearings.

  Regards   Bill Leacock   Limey in exile

From Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com> Tue Sep 5 18:54:53 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 95 18:54:53 PDT
From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: old man EMU (eastern Mich Univ.) springs
I installed some old man EMU shocks, and springs on the
Range Rover last Friday. I started about 8pm, and finished at 12:30am. I had a few technical issues, but it went well
all, in all

Removing the old springs was pretty straight forward. just remove
the shock, and drop the axle. being careful on the fronts that you don't
pull off the brake lines.

Getting the new ones on is a different story....
Since I have to haul a lot of spare parts, and tools for older
rovers I decided to get the heavy duty springs. The rear springs
are a couple of inches longer. The first one on the axle is pretty simple. sit on the spring, and cinch a couple of nylon cargo straps
to compress it a inch or so. The second one is a bugger. It seems I
needed to compress it about 4 inches, no easy task. 
So I put the gears in motion, shoved a cinder block under the 
front end loader on the tractor, and viola a $20K spring compressor
for a Range Rover. Cinch it down with 10 nylon straps (compressed
springs scare the h*ll out of me. I even carried it by a strap so I
wouldn't have to touch the thing).
And presto it fits. After putting on the first spring, I began to
to wonder if I had made a mistake. I lowered the truck of the 
jack stands, and it look even higher. With the normal front
springs, a winch, the rear of the truck seemed a mile high.
But being from Michigan, I "pressed on regardless" and
finished all four sides. Well it seems that the drivers side rear
wheel was about 3 inches higher than the other. It tilted before,
and now it was worse. Test driving it, was even worse. The
steering wheel was offset 3 inches, it pulled to the left, and seemed
very squirrely. So I drove it the next day seeing if the 
beast would level. After suffering much abuse from my
wife, claiming I ruined the truck, I crawled under the beast
to see what I could use as a shim on the weak side.
Looking at the rear axle, not quite figuring out what was wrong
with this picture. I finally came to realize that the anti-sway bar
was cocked. It seems that one of the links connecting the axle to 
the sway bar was stuck up-right forcing the axle down three inches.
a little work with a jack, and a prybar and presto a level car.
It sit's a couple inches higher, but the ride is about the same.

The rear spring are dual stage so the highway ride is normal, but
the heavy duty part should help when I pull the trailer..

Also read in the Wall street journal that when the Japanese
bash up their trucks on some expensive off-road course they
repair any minor dent ASAP because "It shows your improper
technique". I would like to see the proper technique to nail
a Moose....

Russ Burns
91 R-ROver
94 D-90

From LANDROVER@delphi.com Tue Sep 05 21:56:42 1995 
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 1995 21:56:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Subject: Re: New Galvinized Frame
Jory Bell asks...

 
> 3. Does AB still make their own frames? Years ago (5?) Several years ago
>    someone told me they welded up their own, but that they were poorly
>    dimensioned. Can anyone confirm of deny?
/

I've been dealing with ABP since about 1988. I've never heard of them making
thier own frames. They were in the restoration business a few years ago and
were rebuilding bulkheads.. never heard of any problems with those. As far
as quality goes.. ABP will sell whatever they can get.. some Genuine, some
aftermarket with the usual problems associated with aftermarket parts. I
haven't had any problems, but then I live 40 miles away and generally pick
up the parts myself.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 725-1859                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

From JCassidyiv@aol.com Tue Sep 5 22:22:53 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 22:22:53 -0400
From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Subject: RR electrical probs
Thanks to all for the kind response to my questions about the electrical
demons in my 1987 RR.  After talking with Jim Pappas(who in turn talked to
the service department at LRMW), it was felt that the transmission
temperature sending unit has probably shorted itself out-apparently a quite
common occurrence in the RR.  I ordered a new one from Atlantic British for
$35($115 at the dealer) and should be installing it in the next couple of
days.
      BTW, I checked all the electrical connections(fuses/relays/grounds)
that I could find and all seem solid(I know that has no bearing on ability to
function).  I'll let you know how it turns out!
Cheers!  John Cassidy

From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> 5 95 Sep EDT
 1922 
Date:  5 Sep 95 22:21:20 EDT
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Wenching, er, winching setup help needed
As I beat all you locals to the winch that was for sale
here recently (drool on envious rabble(grin) ), I need
a bit of help on the setup.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but common sense and Ohm's Law
tell me that I'm going to need welding cable or the equivalent
to the winch relay head from the battery, as well as some
world-class fuses to cover my butt in the event of a short.

Can anybody fill in the details here? I know how I'd do it, but I'm terminally
anal-retentive, and the Ronco Mr. Fusion won't fit
under the hood.... please bring a bit of sanity into my life.

   Alan

From DieselBobI@aol.com Tue Sep 5 22:25:11 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 22:25:11 -0400
From: DieselBobI@aol.com
Subject: umplace- solex
i have a solex off a 1960  that was traded to me for a parts swap, if you
send me your address, i will u.p.s. it to you. check it out, if it works for
you we can work a deal 

From DieselBobI@aol.com Tue Sep 5 22:35:14 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 22:35:14 -0400
From: DieselBobI@aol.com
Subject: Grahame Hardin--smokey diesel?
get a sept. issue of lro. its got an excellent article article pg.126-129 on
the problem of smoke from a diesel L/R. it is about time that us oil burners
were given some workshop press, after all where else have you seen any
assistance on our engines.

From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Tue Sep 5 23:04:21 1995 
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 1995 23:04:21 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Camel Trophy '96
OK gang, here's your chance to have a go at the Olympics of Four Wheel 
Drive, the 1996 Camel Trophy which will be returning to good ol' reliable 
Borneo.  That event will take place next April in the southern half of the 
island - during the rainy season, of course.  Here's your chance to apply 
for one of the US positions.  The deadline for applications is October 15, 
so update that resume.

Women are encouraged to apply, and there will be 12 people invited to a 
non-stop 30 hour trial in northern California in December.  Four will 
advance to the international selections in Spain, with two chosen in Spain 
to represent the US in April.

Applicants must be 21, hold a driver's liscence and never professionally 
raced.  Send applications to:
                               Tom Collins
                       US Camel Trophy Coordinator
                              P.O. Box 587
                           Snowmass, CO 81654

Expect: tree-dwelling leeches, thigh deep mud, insects the size of diner 
plates and three weeks of mind- and muscle-numbing exertion, but *all 
expenses paid*.  I hope your knees are up to it.  Good luck.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Wed Sep 6 12:51:03 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 12:51:03 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: from Winch it came??
Alan asks:> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but common sense and Ohm's Law
> tell me that I'm going to need welding cable or the equivalent
> to the winch relay head from the battery

I cant remember the actual capacity but when I fitted the thomas electric
winch (complete with DC3 starter as motor!) to the IIA I got hold of some fat
truck starter cable from an auto electrician.  ISTR that I needed at least
600A continuous rating.. Of course yours may be different.
 
> as well as some world-class fuses to cover my butt in the event of a short.

I have no idea where you wouild get such a fuse..  But consider fitting a
manual isolating switch. The type I'm thinking of come from Hella, Echlin and
others, and have a great big key type thingumyjiggera which needs to be
in place for the current to flow.

I put mine on the inside of the guard (the bit front of the grill) above the
winch.  This effectively isolates the winch unless to are using it and gives
you an escape route if the winch controller overloads and jams on.  With the
winch wired direct to the battery, if it jams on and you have no switch, a
lot of things can get bent before you can disconect the damn thing :-(.

Oh dont neglect the earth side either, I doubt if the satenard earth cable is
up to winch loads.

cheers and best of luck.
-- 

  Daryl

From Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Wed Sep 6 00:07:39 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 00:07:39 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Uncle Roger goes Shopping
So I thought I'd change the various oils in the 109".   So I get my oil and 
pumps and a couple of old ensolites, and get to work.  Until, I realize that 
I need tools to do it.  So I go looking for tools.  

Well, my tool set consists of a bunch of 7/16" wrenches and a couple of 
1/2"s.  I couldn't even find an adjustable spanner.  Which is normally okay; 
Stan has a fairly complete toolkit...

Except that our landlord is having our house painted and I told Stan to put 
his tools in the 88" so they don't wander off.  And of course, Stan (and the 
88") was nowhere to be seen.  

So, rather than punch a hole in the oil pan, I hopped in the car with Rachel 
and ran down to Sears.  

Came home with a 140pc toolset -- lots of sockets & rachets, and wrenches 
(spanners).  Also, a pack ofFrom Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Wed Sep 6 8:53:45 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 95 8:53:45 BST
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Grahame Hardin--smokey diesel?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> were given some workshop press, after all where else have you seen any
> assistance on our engines.
Hear hear! I actually wrote to LRO about this very thing,some weeks
ago.Afterthey chickened out on their S111 diesel and just "had it
done".Whether this made any difference I dont know,(nah).I dont think
they reckon Oily Wadders can read!
Cheers
Mike Rooth

From Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Wed Sep 6 11:02:45 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 11:02:45 +0100 (BST)
From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: LR on telly
I have heard from my spies south of the border that Top Gear Programme
are filming at a well-known independent LR garage in Leicester today.
Apparently they will be comparing the service offered by independent &
franchised garages in the new run of the prog which must be starting
soon.
Watch out franchised garages!
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

From LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil> Wed Sep 6 6:56:14 1995 
Date:     Wed, 6 Sep 95 6:56:14 EDT (1056Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  Where is this voltage stabilizer?
David,

The voltage stabilizer is a 1 inch by 1/2 inch metal box that looks like a 
relay that mounts on the back of the speedo case under the dash.  It has a dual 
lug central post and single lug post on either end (at least on mine). From
what I can gather, they are only found on Series IIa and IIIs that have the
"cluster" gauges.  It is used to step down the voltage from 12-14 to 10.5+/-
volts.  Anything over that and the fuel and temp gauges read high.  A way I 
found to do a quick check without taking the dash apart is both the fuel and 
temp gauges will read higher at speed than at idle.  Further, if you are at 
idle and turn on the headlights and put on the brakes (to load the electrical 
system), *both* gauges will go down.  Remember, these are dampened gauges and 
need a little while to react.  I tried to get voltage out of mine, but didn't 
have the multimeter hooked up right or something (also I have a rat's nest for 
an underdash wiring harness and wasn't sure on the polarity of some 
connections).  Hope this helps.

Regards,

Larry

From Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk> Wed Sep 6 11:19:44 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 11:19:44 GMT
From: Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Removing Disco's fan
To remove the viscous fan & assembly:

Find a good fitting open ended spanner, Weld it onto a steel bar, position this 
over the nut (LH thread). Now, you need to find an additional piece of steel bar 
(a 10 inch extension off a half inch drive socket set does very well), and use 
this to "lightly" whack the long spanner (which you place under tension). Don't 
try using a hammer or lump happer to do this, all the kinetic energy will be 
absorbed by the hammer and none of it will transfer onto the long spanner. A 
light bar (10" extension) will transfer the energy into the spanner, and 
eventually after about 20 or less "light whacks", the nut will magically come 
undone!

-- 
Gerald Tan    EMail gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk

Usual Disclaimer-"These views are my own and not 
necessarily those of my employer".

From Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU> Wed Sep 6 21:23:48 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:23:48 +1000 (EST)
From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: jeeps,bash plates etc./
Hi all,
Just wondering what is actually protected by a "Camel Trophy Bash Plate"?
When I had a Datsun 1600 rally car, bash plates were definately useful, 
but that thing had perhaps 1/3 of the diff clearance of my RR, and 
certainly much less body/running gear clearance. I use my RR offroad a 
lot, and there seem to be relatively few situations (none come to mind) 
where I can see that a bash plate would help anything at all....
I have the steering linkage protector as used on later RRs and a _BULL_ 
bar, but beyond that, the underside of the vehicle is exposed. It seems 
that if an obstacle is large/high enough to pose a threat to any 
important running gear parts, then it is probable that the vehicle will 
not be able to get over it far enough to cause damage. Those parts which 
are low down certainly cop a pounding... diff housings, steering 
protector etc, and those ..er.. end bits (rear bumper/exhaust and 
bullbar), but the remainder of the underside doesn't seem to contact too 
many solid objects. The chasis, engine, gearbox and underbody seem to 
largely be high enough to be out of harm's way (only a few areas of the 
chasis and radius arms/mounts seem to get hit). In short, if the bash 
plate 'protects' the underside of the engine and parts forward of the 
front diff, then my question is FROM WHAT? If you have a steering 
protector then I think that this will protect those important exposed 
parts, and beyond that, money may be better spent elsewhere....
Just my thoughts (my vehicle is USED offroad a lot, not necessarily 
always ABUSED, but sometimes perhaps).
BTW I have no problem with the idea of ABUSING Jeeps, they get in the way 
on boggy tracks!

I have replaced the battery in my RR a while back, as it struggled badly in 
the snow. I will dig up the details of the battery if anyone is interested.
Having used it through our winter so far, it performs well in cold and 
under load. It is actually a John Deere tractor battery, and I have 
details of a Caterpillar equivalent. Both are excellent quality from what 
I have seen, but I liked the screw in plugs of the former(cat has push in).
The good part is that the battery has a 1 year full replacement warranty 
with no questions, and beyond that a 5 year pro rata warranty for offroad 
use, and after the 5 years, a significant trade in value toward a 
replacement. The battery style is used in earth moving machines and is 
designed for high vibration- plates are anchored top and bottom, whereas 
in automotive batteries only at the top. Auto batteries around here have 
a 1year warranty in general. This battery cost me the equivalent of 1.5 
'cheap' heavy duty auto batts. or about the same as an expensive 
one(~150oz$). It is slightly larger in dimensions than the original, and 
only just fits in the space provided in a RR, but its capacity and 
warranty attracted me. Note that I have no interest in any battery 
company, just in happy starting in the cold. I'd certainly say that these 
types of battery are worth considering if anyone is having problems with 
capacity, or wants to use an electric winch with one battery alone(though 
this may still be taxing if used heavily).

Lastly, those ARC rules are interesting... does that mean that if I 
remove the EFI system from the 5.0 litre engine which I am building for 
my RR (it is based on a Leyland P76 4.4 L aluminium V8) that I would then 
compete on an equal footing with 3.5L engines? Crazy huh? classes should 
be engine capacity based IMHO.

seeya,
Brian.
(what do you others mean when you sign off with BT? It's my initials!)

From Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk> Wed Sep 06 12:36:00 1995 
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 12:36:00 GMT
From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: V6 Landrover Mods
Trefor Delve
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

6th September 1995

FAO: Steve Reddock, Lightweight V6 (and proud of it!) or anyone else who 
knows.

Steve,

You sound like just the chap I need to talk to.  The reason ?, read on ....

After a 1957 ex-military Series 1 I am pondering the acquisition of  a 3 
litre V6 Series II.  However, I have a couple of things that I need 
resolved.

The Land Rover itself is in reasonable condition and from a friend of mine, 
so not too many problems there.  The question is regarding the speed of the 
things.

I will agree with you that there is sufficient power provided by the V6 to 
make driving easier (certaily compared to a 2 Litre Series 1), but unless 
the gearing is improved it seems to me that even at moderate speeds the 
engine will be spinning at quite a high rate for no real reason.  With the 
power of the unit being of the erder of 140 or so horsepower it seems a 
great waste.

The question is : How did you overcome this problem ?

Clearly and overdrive of some description is one option, maybe even opt for 
larger wheels and tyres.  But do you know anything about the diff ratios. 
 After all it must be a problem that was solved for the Range Rover.

Look forward to any comments.

Trefor.

From Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Wed Sep 06 08:00:00 1995 
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 08:00:00 DST
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Rovers at the Rovers
Just a reminder about the Toronto Area Rover Club "Rovers at the Rovers" 
event . Saturday 16th September at 2.30pm Open to all, especially Rover and 
Land Rover Vehicles and enthusiasts. Car Show, Pictorial Treasure Hunt, 
Natter and Noggin, unique prizes for best Rover, Best Land Rover and 
Navigator. Door prizes courtesy of Land Rover Canada. Live entertainment by 
the St Johns Road House Band in the evening,  $15 car. See us at the Rovers 
Inn, North Service Road (just east of Fifty Road) Grimsby Ontario. Stay 
overnight locally then visit Bronte Provincial Park in Oakville for the 
Annual British Car Day (all marques) put on by The Toronto Truimph Club

From Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Wed Sep 06 08:13:00 1995 
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 08:13:00 DST
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Half Shafts
Fred Ellsworth writes for advice on half shaft replacement.
Per a recent thread and personal experience. The fracture of a half shaft 
imposes loads on the bolts retaining the ring gear that may cause them to 
fail later, sometimes much later.  While the axle is stripped to replace the 
halfshaft it is a good idea to replace these bolts and their locking tabs to 
avoid agro later (pieces of bolts coming throught axle casing! Maybe this is 
what happened to Todd?). Also, if you can, have the innner ends of the 
replacement half shafts shot peened. This will relieve surface stress 
raisers and make them stronger.

Trevor Easton

From gnome@st.rim.or.jp (Shunichi Nishi) Wed Sep 6 21:17:27 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:17:27 +0900
From: gnome@st.rim.or.jp (Shunichi Nishi)
Subject: 6th Japan Land Rover Club Meeting
  Hi All!!!
  
  *Information*
                         
        6th Japan Land Rover Club Meeting 's Information
                               up Date  06/9  (Japan Time)
          [ http://www.st.rim.or.jp/~gnome/rover.html]

  Regards,                       ^[$B@>!!=S0l^[(B

///   Shunichi Nishi   ///
^[$B!~^[(B  gnome@st.rim.or.jp  ^[$B!~^[(B

From Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk> Wed Sep 06 13:43:00 1995 
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 13:43:00 GMT
From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: Weber Carbs
Wednesday 6th September 1995

Johan

re. your query on Weber Carburettors.

Whilst I am not an absolute expert on Webers, I do have some experience in 
their use - enough at least to outline the basics.

The principle of the carb is simple - however, its setup is complicated.

First of all - the numbers
 -----------------------------------

The number refers to barrel diameter in mm.  The DCD is a twin choke and is 
really referred to as a 28/36 DCD; the 28 being the primary barrel diameter, 
36 being the secondary diameter.

With the 38 DGAS, the barrels are the same diameter: 38 mm.

Internals
 ------------

Components that affect the setup are Main jets, emulsion tubes, air 
correction jets, venturi sizes.  Consideration needs to be given to the idle 
jets although this is not really a perfomance issue.  The setup of the carb 
strictly speaking requires a dyno but I'm sure that there are people with a 
great deal of expertise in the setup.

The differences
 -----------------------

The difference between the carbs you have are in their application.  The 38 
DGAS is intented to be fitted to 6 cylinder engines with a manifold such 
that each barrel of the carb feeds 3 cylinders only.  In effect the DGAS 
consists of two separate carburettors with a common fuel supply and 
synchronised throttles.

The 28/36 DCD on the other hand may be fitted to 4 or 6 cylinder engines BUT 
the unit is intended to supply ALL of the cylinders.  The function of the 
two barrels is to provide a compomise between economy and performance.  As 
you quite rightly pointed out, the second choke only opens when the demand 
from the thottle is high.  In fact, the secondary choke does not open until 
the primary choke is 2/3 open.

The principle used to improve the economy with the DCD is directly related 
to the smaller barrel and hence smaller venturi.  With a smaller venturi, 
better fuel atomisation is obtained when the air flow through the carb is 
small.

Another difference between the carbs is the principle of the cold start 
operation.  With the DCD, the cold start device can effectively be 
considered as a separate carburettor.  With the DGAS there is a conventional 
choke at the top of each barrel.

Presumably, if there is someone who produces a manifold allowing this to be 
fitted to your SIII, then there should be someone who can set it up.

Hope that this helps in some way.

If anyone out there spots any problems in the above, please let me know as I 
am clearly misinformed.

Trefor.

tdelve@nectech.co.uk

From Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu> Wed Sep 6 08:59:36 1995 
Date: Wed,  6 Sep 1995 08:59:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: RR Electrical Problems
Chris, I tried to send you mail yesterday and it bounced so I'm
submiting this to the list.
I would be interested in your diagrams for the 88 Range Rover but I need
to be able to correspond with you. I'd be glad to send you $5.00
Hope to hear from you soon.
Jon
 
The question is: how to I make them available?  I know how, basically, 
(being also a computer guru) but the problem is logistics.  I don't intend to
start a WWW home page just yet.
 
If there is enough interest ...
 
For a few people, I'm willing to mail them - if those people cover my 
costs (say $5 bill).  The diagrams are (close to) publication quality, 
and are normally 8 1/2" by 11".  There are about 9 sheets, plus indexes.  
I also keep a reduced-size set in the vehicle.
 

From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Wed Sep 06 09:01:12 1995 
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 09:01:12 EST
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Subject: Brush Bar, FWIW
We've questioned the utility and even the name of this item. 
 I have no delusion that the Genuine Parts item on the new 
Discovery is capable or even meant to impact a bull.  And 
having installed it myself, I realize it's not suited for 
nudging other vehicles out of their mired misery.  The 
projecting horizontal tube is also removable if you don't 
like it, but that is not obvious if the bar was installed by 
someone else.  (Mind you, if I was back in Fallon NV when 
the cattle drive was coming through town, I might nudge a 
bull aside while crawling down Maine Street.)

For me, the bar's main value may be in the fact that the 
bicycles of my two typically overenergetic, 
short-attention-spanned boys are stored directly in front of 
the new Discovery's spot in the garage, a location further 
narrowed by the spare Series "bulkhead" leaning against the 
wall there.  

That and the looks, of course.

Regards,
Hank

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Wed Sep 6 08:10:04 1995 
Date:          Wed, 6 Sep 1995 08:10:04 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re:winching setup help needed
Alan Richer asks about moounting a winch.
Alan,
What make is it?
I set up my Warn 8274 thusly:

1/0 red welding cable; it's more flexible because it has more strands, 
and since the electron's flow on the outside of the individual wire, 
you get more current flow (you think *you're* anal).
I got a dual cable battery clamp (like used on trucks with multible 
batteries) for the positive side. I got a grommet that fit the cable, 
drilled a hole to match the grommet in the side of the radiator 
housing  next to the battery tray, smeared the hole with NeverSeeze, 
and ran the cable thru it, out through the grill and to the winch 
solenoid. I think I used Amp cable, it's very resistant to abrasion, 
which is good for where it goes through the grill. It's been on for 
about 8-9 years and you can see just a touch of wear where it rides 
on the grill.

I got a battery shut-off to put in the circut but haven't gotten 
around to connecting it in, even though it's mounted. I'd use that 
rather than a fuse, probably cheaper.

For the ground I also used 1/0 cable (black). I attached it to the 
winch motor and then bolted it to the frame. Idealy, it should attach 
to the same point as the battery ground, if not the batery itself. 
but I didn't have a long enough piece.
I've never figured out why winch mfgs. put a smaller ground cable on 
since they have to carry the same current (less  some through the 
frame I suppose). I used 1/0 because the Warn will draw near  400 
amps at full load. I intalled a Delco 108 amp alternator at the same 
time. And a huge deep cycle battery (I extended the battery tray about 
2 1/2 inches.

I made a flat mounting plate and welded it to the back side of the 
bumper, cut a slot in the bumper and mounted my roller fairlead. This 
gets the winch a little lower, the lower the better when it comes to 
winching. This setup allows it to pull in the same plane as the 
frame. The drawback is that I have to pull out a bunch of the cable 
to use the hand crank, but I've only needed to do that once since I 
mounted the winch. There is just enough clearance on the 
SeriesIIA&III for the Warn winch. I can just get the cover down over 
it.

At the same time I got enough 1/0 cable and ran a new starter cable.

Hope this helps. If you can view .bmp files (or most any other 
graphic format) I'll e-mail you a UUEncoded drawing of the mounting.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 06 95 Sep EDT
 1909 
Date: 06 Sep 95 09:01:53 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Misc. (Fan/Weber/RR elec./oil level CU)
Re: Replacing the visous coupled fan

>I've bought a Kenlowe electric fan for the wife's TDi Disco and will be
>fitting this when I can get a free weekend.  The existing fan seems to
>be very tightly mounted to the waterpump spindle (I note from the
.....
>Any tips on shifting the bugger will be gratefully digested before I
>let my "chums" loose on it who are used to dealing with trucks and

After a few K miles, the stock viscous fan is viciously tight on the
waterpump.  In most cases the pump has to be removed and the impeller
immobilized (with the danger of breaking it, it's soft aluminum) in order
to get the thing off, and even then it's a hassle.  Watch out your chums
don't bugger the waterpump, they don't come cheap!

--------------------------------

Re: Weaber Carburetor

>I have a Ser IIIS with a Cevy 4.1, 6cyl engine conversion with a notoriously
>thirsty Rochester carburetor. I want to put a Weaber carburetor on but am in
....
>for use on this engine?. Does the fact that throats of the 36 open separately
>VS the throats of the 38 opening simultaneously have any bearing or can one
>offset the 38's throat gears so that they also open separately?. Which one

I asked someone who has done a lot of 'weird' engine swaps for LR owners,
and his simple answer was:  If it's a straight-six, use the 36 (better
mileage); for a V6, or any V-engine for that matter, you want the 38 w/
linked throttles, or you'll loose a lot of torque in low revs. As for jets,
he *assumes* that for an engine with a 4.1 displacement the regular jets
might be a bit whimpy. Just his opinion...   YMMV

-------------------------------

Re:     Re: RR Electrical Problems

>> The question is: how to I make them available?  I know how, basically,
>> (being also a computer guru) but the problem is logistics.  I don't intend to
>> start a WWW home page just yet.

>How about zipping them and sending directly to interested parties as a
>UUEncoded attachment. Feel free to experiment with me, I'd be
>interested in seeing them.

That's right: zip&uuencode it, and send it on to  Todd Mills <tomills@du.edu>
for him to stash on the Web for those interested to retrieve. This is too
good to be languishing all alone on your drive...  (assuming Todd agrees).

----------------------------------------

Re: Lucas Strikes Again!

>In my continuing battles again Lucas the god of darkness, I seem to have lost
>the oil level control unit(PRC 5434) in my '90 RR. Actually this was made by

I understand your frustration, but for some mysterious reason this gadget,
even in England, home of Lucas, is priced @ GBP 168.71 rec. retail price.
So, it's not the dealer who is ripping you off... it's someone else.
(LUCAS... Prince of Darkness - or, indeed, Robber Baron?)

------------------------------------------

... above drivel was brought to you by

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Wed Sep 6 08:17:31 1995 
Date:          Wed, 6 Sep 1995 08:17:31 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re:  Where is this voltage stabilizer?
If you replace the stabilizer, supposedly they have to be mounted in 
the correct orientation to work properly.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 06 95 Sep EDT
 1909 
Date: 06 Sep 95 09:17:22 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: Sighting in a movie
Another Range Rover sighting in a movie for the list...

That talking pig movie has a Range Rover in it.  Driven by the vet.  The right
rear of the vehicle is visible in a couple of shots.

BTW, that talking pig movie (Babe, I think it is called) was great... anyone who
is a Land Rover enthusiast would probably like the scenes on the 'greenlanes' in
the UK.  I highly recommend it.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

From "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 06 95 Sep EDT
 1909 
Date: 06 Sep 95 09:23:31 EDT
From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com>
Subject: No LR Owner should be without...
Over the past weekend, I disassembled the '56 fire tender... Took 4 hours from
complete vehicle to rolling chasses (It's nice to have done enough of these
things that I don't need to label everything and to already have cans labeled
for the parts!

Anyway, in this process, I used for the first time a product that no Land Rover
owner should be without.

It came grom Griots Garage, and it is a stuck nut/bolt remover that is the most
incredible stuff I have ever seen.  I was really thinking I had been snookered,
but this stuff is great.

It is not a penetrating oil, it is some kind of cryogen.  You spray about a 2
second squirt it on the stuck fastener and wait about 10 seconds.  Then put the
wrench on it and it will turn...  I found that a bit of WD$0 after getting it
turning made things easier.

Anyway, this stuff is about $10 a can, but a can would do about 10 Land Rovers.
You really don't use much.

It's a german product, called something like 'stuck fastener remover'.  If
anyone has a number for Griots, please post it.

Anyway, it's not often I find a product that makes removing rusty rover
fasteners  -- much less amazes me in the process -- so this has become an
indespensable part of my toolkit.

Cheers, 

R. P. Reid

From Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> 6 95 Sep EDT
 1910 
Date:  6 Sep 95 10:17:42 EDT
From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Re:winching setup help needed
Hi, Tom.

it's the Bellview that was advertised here recently. it is coming with a roller 
fairlead
bumper, with all of the mounting doodads already done to it. This should make 
my life
wasier, as all I really need to do is to run the electricals into the cab and 
to the
battery.

I have a huge tractor battery on the old boy that's a relic of when he was a 
Diesel. This
oughta do it....but I need to do the extension trick with the battery box as 
you did. Rather
than modifying the present box, I will probably just weld up an angle-iron 
frame to hold
the bottom of the battery, rubber-coat this and bolt it to the present battery 
box.

I figure I should be all set, as I have the Diesel springs on the front of the 
109 already
to compensate for the added weight. Once he's finished - Zimbabwe, here I come!

      Alan

From Sanna@aol.com Wed Sep 6 10:47:46 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 10:47:46 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo
>Well, that was very nice of you. But, Not my point. I would probably also do
so do to the sad state of the farming community today. I thought you meant
by law you were responsible for the livstock. That would torque my nuts.
hehe. I am not a big lover of the government.

Actually, I was more moo'ved by the plight of the calf.  I didn't kill it.  I
just broke his back.  The poor guy was trying to get around with his front
legs, dragging his back pair.  I went off to find the rancher (and he was a
long way away) out of pity for the calf, not his pocketbook.

He was a nice guy, though.  I offered to turn in the claim with no
guarantees, and he offered me a garden hose to wash the **** of the bonnet.

Tony

PS: >do to the sad state of the farming community today.

I heard on the radio yesterday (PBS, no less), that the average farm income
today is 1000,000+.

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Wed Sep 6 10:04:35 1995 
Date:          Wed, 6 Sep 1995 10:04:35 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re:winching setup help needed
Alan,
The reason I suggested a deep cycle battery is running a non-deep 
cycle low repeatedly will wipe it out in short order.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Sanna@aol.com Wed Sep 6 11:10:51 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 11:10:51 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Brush/Bull guard testimony
>So, while there may be some positive anectodes, I'm not as impressed as I
was a short time ago with the brush bar. IMHO, it's got more "look" value
than anything else.

Actually, I put one on the RR as a place to mount a winch, but it has become
very handy for many other things.  Example 1:  Off-road camping in Death
Valley.  Problem: no firewood.  Solution:  Outside the park and at higher
elevations there is an abundance of dry wood; from old shacks to dead trees.
 Lay out ropes tied to the bottom members and stack the wood on top.  Loop
the ropes through the top and hoist the fire wood up and tie it off.  You can
carry a prodigious amount of fuel (a week's worth) that way.  Example 2:
 Have you ever wondered what to do with your sodden floor mats after using a
self-serve spray car wash?  Just place them between the moo bar and the
grill.  They will naturally drain and be blown dry by the time you get home.
 Example 3:  What about those icy winter days?  Many times the moo bar has
been a butt-saver (mine) while walking around the car.  Example 4:  How do
you cure a fresh rattlesnake pelt?  On the moo bar, of course!  Example 5:
 ...and it really does save the front end while bush-wacking.

I could go on....   but the fact is that a moo bar is a very practical
option, not just for running 'roos.

Tony

From "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org> Wed Sep 06 11:19:31 1995 
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 11:19:31 EST
From: "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org>
Subject: Translation, please
  
        I think it's terrific getting mail from all over the world - this 
        morning heard from Japan, South Africa and Australia.  Kind of makes the 
        world a smaller place.
        
        I do have one question though:
        
        Mike Rooth writes:
        
        >I suspect that this is the advertising industry,currentley hoist
        >bt its own dewberry-firkin,at least over here.
        
        I've heard of being hoist by your own petard, but what the hell is a 
        dewberry-firkin??!!
        
        If the answer can't be printed for all to see, please send it to my 
        e-mail address.  I am *really* curious...
        
        Regards to the whole Rover World,
        
        Skip Wharton
        From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA

From sac4@cornell.edu (Stephen A. Church) Wed Sep 6 11:52:20 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 11:52:20 -0400
From: sac4@cornell.edu (Stephen A. Church)
Subject: The sad state...(was Bull Bars, etc.)
I apologize for the lack of Land Rover content, but with an ag background,
I can't resist...

>PS: >do to the sad state of the farming community today.
>I heard on the radio yesterday (PBS, no less), that the average farm income
>today is 1000,000+.

My initial reaction to that figure was one of disbelief -- anything's
possible, I supppose; although upon putting my education and experience,
limited as it may be, to use (shocker, eh?), I assume that income in this
sense is gross income prior to expenses being taken out.  A lot of money
does pass through a farm's checking account with income from milk, grains,
etc., but the key word is through.  The cost of inputs for farms continues
to rise while the prices paid for farm output tends to stay fairly stable.
I know quite a few families involved in production agriculture, but not
many of them enjoy a net income anywhere near $1,000,000.  How often do you
hear about that city or suburban kid moving out to the country to pursue
his/her dream of getting rich behind the wheel of a John Deere (or
underneath a Holstein cow)?  Sure, there are probably wealthy farmers, but
it's a 24/7/365 job, and it's not easy money.  I'd rather see a farmer
driving around in a brand new Range Rover (or any other expen$ive vehicle)
than a professional athlete or a Hollywood star.  Yes, everyone has his or
her place in society, but where would that place be without food?

FWIW

Steve Church

P.S. Was that PBS or NPR?  Just curious.

From Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Wed Sep 6 16:58:27 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 95 16:58:27 BST
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Translation, please
Ah yes,the Dewberry-Firkin.
Well, its an organic Petard,first invented by a Mr Dewberry
oh,about 1638,or thereabouts,on the 15th of August.The Firkin
being a barrel of Ale.Mr Dewberry(may his shadow ever be jointed
at the elbow) found at considerable personal risk,that such a
barrel,left under a wall,in the sun,during a siege,would not only
drive the besieged mad with thirst(thus making it one of the
earliest known weapons of psychological warfare),but would also
aid rapid fermentation.This resulted in the eventual explosion
of the Firkin,showering the besieged with over-fermented Ale,
splinters,and froth.The Ale woulD,if left long enough on the
castle walls,eat away at the mortar,thus weakening the structure.
The weapon is not as well known as it deserves to be,due to the
habit of the rude soldiery of the time of *drinking* the Ale
and replacing it with water,or worse.(I beleive the fermentation
rate of horse-pee is too slow to create a satifactory bang).
The soldiery saw no good reason to chuck good Ale at the enemy,
or,for that matter,bad Ale either,so they invented Gunpowder,
and chucked rocks instead.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Wed Sep 06 09:14:21 1995 
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 09:14:21 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: 87 RR, should I buy?
FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: 87 RR, should I buy?
I found a '87 RR for sale for $9500. It has 97,000 miles, rino bars
front/rear leather, new michelin tyres, CD player. They say it has no leaks
(must be out of fluids!) Never been off-road, they used it to tow a boat to
the lake.

Is this a good deal? What should I look for? What kind of milage can I
expect with a V8 petrol?

Please respond directly to me at  debrown@srp.gov  since I want to look at
it Today, and will most likely put a deposit on it if I like it.

Respond to:  debrown@srp.gov

Thanks!!!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

From Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca> Wed Sep 6 10:43:19 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 10:43:19 -0600 (MDT)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Land Rover Books
I have a catalog from Classic Motorbooks, and was thinking of purchasing 
a few LR books. I find it quite hard to choose from the short 
descriptions and was hoping that some of you may have opinions on the 
ones that I am considering.

1) Brooklands Land Rover Serires II and IIa 1958-71 ... $16.95
2) Land Rover, by James Taylor                      ... $17.95
3) Land Rover, by Chris Bennett                     ... $15.95
4) Land Rover Restoration Tips + Techniques, by R.M. Clarke
                                                    ... $16.95
5) Land Rover Series I, II, III: Guide to Purchase and DIY
   Restoration, by Lindsay Porter                   ... $34.95
6) Land Rover: The Unbeatable 4x4 (4th ed.), by
   K. & J. Slavin and G.N. Mackie                   ... $39.95

Any input would be greatly appreciated, as I can't buy them all, and 
$40US is alot for a book!

Thanks,
Rob

From Alan.Lancendorfer@Eng.Sun.COM (Alan Lancendorfer) Wed Sep 6 09:55:14 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 09:55:14 -0700
From: Alan.Lancendorfer@Eng.Sun.COM (Alan Lancendorfer)
Subject: Re: Wenching, er, winching setup help needed
I have a Bellview on my '66 109 (it came installed by a dealer) and it is
powered through a Ford type starter solenoid engaged by a switch mounted
on the dash.  There is a panel with this switch, the clutch engaging
cable interface and the brake for the winch.  The cables that connect to
these mechanical interfaces are like large lawn mower cables and the 
wire from the battery to the solenoid and up to the winch are standard
6Volt size battery cable.
A.L.
>From LRO-Owner@uk.stratus.com Tue Sep  5 19:44 PDT 1995
>Precedence: 	bulk
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 31 lines)]
>under the hood.... please bring a bit of sanity into my life.
>   Alan

From Michael Slade <slade@teleport.com> Wed Sep 6 10:04:12 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 10:04:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Slade <slade@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Roverworks Lawsuit?
Pierce,

I for one, have had an order from Roverworks since Sept. 7 of last year.  
After many empty promises, non-returned phone calls, and a SUBSTANTIAL 
chunk of my change, I too am considering hiring an attorney and making 
the flight out to Hyde Park.

If you do find out who these people are, PLEASE let me know either via 
the list, or feel free to call me at home  (503) 760-4798.

Alas, they promise the moon at Roverworks, but even getting a reciept for 
my last cashiers check was worse than pulling teeth.  I would advise 
anyone to STEER CLEAR of these folks.  If anyone would like to talk in 
person more about my, or others situation with Roverworks, please feel 
free to do so.

Sigh, and I just sold my '88 IIa.  :(

Rover-less and penniless,

Michael

slade@teleport.COM  Public Access User -- Not affiliated with Teleport
Public Access UNIX and Internet at (503) 220-1016 (2400-28800, N81)

From Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> Wed Sep 6 10:26:04 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 95 10:26:04 PDT
From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: British Car Meet
H:i,

I am going to be at the Palo Alto british car (and truck I guess) meet on
Sunday, Is any else going to go? I live in an apartment across the street
from Stanford University, so I am real close to the event. I wonder if
I am allowed to park in the grounds since I have a Defender? I guess I 
should clean it up and give it a good wax job before... (Its still dirty
from the Labor Day Mendicino trip).

If anyone is going, let me know maybe we can meet at a specified place/time.

Leland Roys
1994 Def-90 (Red, With some dirt)
roys@cup.hp.com

From William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com> Wed Sep 6 13:56:46 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 13:56:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com>
Subject: wanted and for sale
Wanted:

My IIA 109 has most of a capstan winch on it. I'd really like to get it 
working. Are there any people with capstan winch parts or whole that they 
would like to sell? I'm primarily looking for the parts which connect it 
to the starter dog. I'm in the Washington, DC, USA area, but have no 
problems with shipping.

For Sale:

109 hoop set. I believe that it's basically complete with windscreen and 
door pieces, but I've only had the car since May and haven't tried the 
soft top (it didn't come with one). US$ 150 + shipping.

______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things? (David Brin)

  wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com
  http://glenfiddich.minerva.bah.com:8062/CyberJungle.html
  MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton

From matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Wed Sep 6 10:48:01 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 10:48:01 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: wiring diagrams
When I tried to contact Chris directly, I received this:

      Connected to Clyde.Concordia.CA:
      >>> RCPT To:<haslam@concordia.ca>
      <<< 550 <haslam@concordia.ca>... User unknown
      550 <haslam@concordia.ca>... User unknown

I would definitely be interested in your wiring diagrams for the '88 RR, 
zipped/emailed or printed/snailed.

-Matt

From Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com> Wed Sep 6 10:57:25 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 95 10:57:25 PDT
From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: The sad state...(was Bull Bars, etc.)
I think that is Networth. It is really easy to get 1000000
in assets with a farm which has been in the family for 
20 to 100 years.
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 37 lines)]
> Steve Church
> P.S. Was that PBS or NPR?  Just curious.

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Wed Sep 06 11:30:37 1995 
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 1995 11:30:37 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: British Car Meet
 Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> writes:

>I am going to be at the Palo Alto british car (and truck I guess) meet on
>Sunday, Is any else going to go? I live in an apartment across the street
>from Stanford University, so I am real close to the event.

 How con-veen-ient!

>I wonder if
>I am allowed to park in the grounds since I have a Defender?

 Allowed???  You MUST park in the grounds.

>I guess I 
>should clean it up and give it a good wax job before... (Its still dirty
>from the Labor Day Mendicino trip).

 Nah, not necessary.  You might want to wash & wax the right half though,
 and leave the left as is...  just to show the contrast in the many uses
 such a robust vehicle has :)  [Or show up dirty in the AM, then leave on a
 short break and come back all nice and tidy.]

>If anyone is going, let me know maybe we can meet at a specified place/time.

 OK! Sept. 10, 1995 at 09:00 hours at the Palo Alto All-British Meet concourse
 grounds, east side of El Camino Real across from the Stanford Shopping Center.
 Lunch at Una-Mas Mexican Restaurant, south-easterly side of the Stanford
 Shopping Center, 12:30 hours --everyone to wear an obnoxious Rover or
 British hat, Aussie fedoras recommended with Kiwi feathers, or full Rover
 battle dress (overalls?).  Seating at outdoor tables on south side of
 restaurant, group photo with Dos-Equis etc. in hand at 13:00 hours --copy to
 be posted to Web page. [Alternatives solicited.]

 Michael Carradine         ?           '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                _\    __      http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                          [__[__[__]
 _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________

From "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu> Wed Sep 6 12:45:24 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 12:45:24 -0600 (MDT)
From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Books
Rob Bailey asks about LR books.  Here are a few annotations:

< 1) Brooklands Land Rover Serires II and IIa 1958-71 ... $16.95
The Brooklands series of books are a compilation of b&w reprints of contemporary 
automotive magazine articles, presented in chronological order, which gives 
something of a sense of the evolution of any particular model.  Some of the 
reprints are sharp, others leave something to be desired in quality.

< 2) Land Rover, by James Taylor                      ... $17.95
James Taylor knows his stuff, one of the best, lots of short and succinct factoids.

< 3) Land Rover, by Chris Bennett                     ... $15.95
A very pretty coffee table book of superb colour photos, with quite a few of special 
models and variants.  A minor drawback of this book is that all the photos were 
shot for this edition (the oddball vehicles being museum pieces), and almost all 
in England, which implies a certain lack of depth.

< 4) Land Rover Restoration Tips + Techniques, by R.M. Clarke
<                                                     ... $16.95
Haven't seen this one.

< 5) Land Rover Series I, II, III: Guide to Purchase and DIY
<    Restoration, by Lindsay Porter                   ... $34.95
This is a step-by-step guide, heavy on b&w photos and short on text.  I'm no expert, 
but it struck me as lacking in some areas of restoration and glossing over others.

< 6) Land Rover: The Unbeatable 4x4 (4th ed.), by
<    K. & J. Slavin and G.N. Mackie                   ... $39.95
This used to be the Land Rover lover's bible, but, as Robin Craig has noted, each 
successive edition has been more of a sloppy cut-and-paste job.  Still, no Land 
Rover library should be without at least one edition.

If you live near a large progressive bookstore (like Barnes & Noble), you should 
be able to find at least a couple of these titles, and judge for yourself.
Happy reading.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

From "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org> Wed Sep 06 16:44:09 1995 
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 95 16:44:09 EST
From: "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org>
Subject: Dewberry Firkin
        
        Mike Rooth:
        
        I stand in awe of both your historical perspective and your ability to 
        tell a great story.
        
        Your reply provided a bright spot to an otherwise gloomy day...
        
        Regards,
        
        Skip Wharton
        From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA

From Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu> Wed Sep 6 16:47:57 1995 
Date: Wed,  6 Sep 1995 16:47:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: RR Electrical Problems
Chris Haslam wrote a note to the list about wiring diagrams and I tried
to reply but the message bounced as undliverable.
I would be interested in the wiring diagrams if I could get in touch with him.
Is  there another address we can send email?
Jon

From TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Thu Sep 7 05:31:47 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 05:31:47 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Movie sighting
Another one to add to the list - 

Marked For Death with Steven Seagull has a couple of
good shots of a 109 SIII Safari in Jamaica, it is
RHD, a SIII grille but no heater intake in the LH wing.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

From Magnet <magnet@io.org> Wed Sep 6 18:53:45 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 18:53:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Magnet <magnet@io.org>
Subject: 93 RR Idle Adj?
I certainly would appreciate it if some kind and knowledgeable
person (or someone with access to the relevant info!) could
clue me in as to where the idle speed adjustment is on a '93
Range Rover 4.2 litre V8.  The Haynes book I have only covers
up to 1989, and at that time it was apparently on the air
bypass valve at the back of the EFI air plenum.  I've looked
at that as best I can without getting a mirror in there, and
don't see anything that looks like an adjustment.

O for the happy days when you just twiddled the throttle
stop! :-)

                                Cheers,
                                       -- Bill

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Bill Daddis -- Aurora, Ontario, Canada -- magnet@io.org
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

From Solihul@aol.com Wed Sep 6 18:56:55 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 18:56:55 -0400
From: Solihul@aol.com
Subject: Engine swaps; info needed Pinzgauer Power?
I have several good VW D24s as found over here under the hood of some Volvos
and I'm pretty happy with the one in my 765TD. I'd like to know if anyone has
experience swapping these into series LRs and if anyone knows of a conversion
gearset to get rid of the gilmer belt. I believe the pinzgauers use this
engine also. These engines are plentiful here because they're misunderstood
and poorly maintained. Normally aspirated makes about 90 hp, turbo pushes
about 125. BTW, don't the Range Rovers use a ZF automatic, too? If so, a
turbo diesel RR  could be put together with bits from a Volvo TD automatic.
Hmmm. Thanks in advance. Y'all come see us anytime except during the
olympics, we're hoping to be out of state. John Dillingham, Woodstock, GA

From Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au> Thu Sep 7 08:47:57 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 08:47:57 +0930
From: Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au>
Subject: RE: Brush/Bull guard testimony
At 11:51 AM 5/09/95 TZ, you wrote:

<SNIP>
>So, while there may be some positive anectodes, I'm not as impressed as 
>I was a short time ago with the brush bar. IMHO, it's got more "look" 
>value than anything else. Especially considering how it's mounted to 
>the frame. I certainly wouldn't try "nudging" with it as it's name implies.

We have great fun at traffic lights.  If you're ever in Adelaide (Yeah, Yeah
I know....get real....:-) and you see two Series IIA's Ex-Military "Nudging"
each other backwards and forwards until the lights go green you can be sure
one of them is us.

As long as the other vehicle has bumperettes and you have a nice solid
bush/bull/cow/deer/roo/elk bar there are great things you can do with your
vehicles.  You should see the look on peoples faces in other cars when they
look out and one vehicle purposesly "nudges" the other one who immediately
reverses back and "nudges" him.  The battle of the Landies <Gladiator
Landies>....!!

Childish huh!   :-)  (Who Cares!!)

TTFN

Tiffany Downing

********************************************
Co-ordinator, International Student Programs
TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA
Phone:   (61 8) 226 3202
Fax:     (61 8) 226 3655
E-Mail:  tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
********************************************

From Sanna@aol.com Wed Sep 6 19:25:53 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 19:25:53 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: The sad state...(was Bull Bars, etc.)
>P.S. Was that PBS or NPR?  Just curious.

NPR

From TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Thu Sep 7 07:56:17 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 07:56:17 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: re:Brush/bull bar testimony
Another use along the same lines is for "nudging"
other vehicles out of the way when their inconsiderate
owners park so close that you can't move your vehicle.

Haven't done it myself but I have seen it done by a
friend when hemmed in by a small car whose owner
obviously did not realise that a 109 does not come
equipped with a turning circle.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

From gnome@st.rim.or.jp (Shunichi Nishi) Thu Sep 7 08:58:11 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 08:58:11 +0900
From: gnome@st.rim.or.jp (Shunichi Nishi)
Subject: I'm SORRY!
Dear Dixon and All !!

I apologize to my careless. 
I used "LR logo" my own way. Sorry!
Now 
I removed "LR logo" <body background>.
   will take care from now !!

Regars,

///   Shunichi Nishi   ///
^[$B!~^[(B  gnome@st.rim.or.jp  ^[$B!~^[(B

From bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Wed Sep 6 21:28:30 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:28:30 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Nowwaitadoggoneminute.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>If that's the case, I'm staying in New England...
>   aj"Mooooove over..."r
Well, I'll tell ya. atleast I am Getting the meat, not the rancher!
                                        
                                   -=>Brian<=-

From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Wed Sep 6 21:54:08 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:54:08 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Free range
My "free range" story comes from Tunisia back when I was in the Peace Corps. 
We were driving back to basecamp late at night, doing about 80 kph (*light 
speed* in Tunisia!) when we crested a hill and were confronted by a virtual 
sea of eyes glaring back at us.  Before the driver could get on the binders, 
we were playing pinball with a flock of sheep and ended up taking a few out. 
(Apparently in Tunisia, the highways have the best grazing.)  No damage to 
the 88, but the shepherd comes out of the darkness ranting in Berber and/or 
Arabic.  Though fluent in Arabic, none of us could make out a sylable, 
except that he was hoppin' mad.  Anyway, the wallets come out, some dinars 
were passed and he shut up real quick.  Talk about having your cake *and* 
eating it, too.  He got: the wool, the hide, the meat and the money.  Come 
to think of it, maybe it was a routine scam....
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Wed Sep 6 21:53:59 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 21:53:59 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Exhausting ideas
Alan Richer had an idea...about using a larger diameter pipe to deflect 
exhaust heat.  My rice rocket PU had just such a setup, but after a while, 
it began rattling something fierce and I cut off the offending outside pipe. 
Didn't seem to make much difference in heat.... Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

From ecoethic@rcinet.com Wed Sep 6 23:11:41 1995 
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 1995 23:11:41 -0400
From: ecoethic@rcinet.com
Subject: Re: Disco Abuse
I would like to second Tom Rowe's response to Brian concerning the urge to 
abuse disco's. I am sure the ads we have all seen of a disco flying through deep 
mud and frog-leaping moguls brings out our deepest urges to strain our machines 
to their ultimate limits and thereby increase our macho status, but, that is not a 
realistic approach to responsible off-roading.

Tearing up the soil unnecessarily will not endear us to the managers of public 
lands we use. Flailing our machines against the environment for no other purpose 
than to see what parts will or will not break is disrespectful of the vehicles we 
love. I hope the new generation of Discovery and Range Rover owners realize 
that the true value of their vehicle is how long it lasts in good condition while 
carrying you over terrain in style and with respect.

I recently told of my trip to Colorado and how I spent a lot of time in the higher 
elevations, and how I did not see a Rover of any description during the whole 
three weeks. That was probably just as well, for if any of the more energetic 
Rover owners were behind me, you would have been frFrom dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Thu Sep 7 18:19:25 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 18:19:25 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Quaife Diffs
Hi all, does anyone out there in net land know anything about Quaife
differentials to suit rovers?   I've got a line on what is supposed to be a
LSD/torque biasing diff but have been told that quaife only make lockers or
heavy duty open centres.  Can anyone confirm/deny any of this.  Unfortunately
the diff is several thousand Km away otherwise i'd just have a look.....

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

From Andy Marshallsay <axmarsha@lag.mobil.com> Thu Sep 7 11:25:15 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 95 11:25:15 GMT
From: Andy Marshallsay <axmarsha@lag.mobil.com>
Subject: Lurker has Disco questions
Dear LRO list readers

I've been lurking on this list for quite a while now. I'm not currently
a Landie owner as I sold my Series III about 18 months ago. I really
caught the bug with that one, I ended up completely rebuilding it onto a
galvinised frame complete with Ford 3.0 V6. I bought it thinking LR
frame were made of indestructium, and therefore didn't warrant any
attention when buying second hand - mistake number 1.

Still its nearly time to buy another of Solihul's finest. The fiancee
wants a Discovery rather than a Defender, I'm going to take the easy
route and agree with her this time (leaves space in the driveway for
something more individual at a leter date). ** See below **

I've done a lot of surfing and reading on Disco's however there is one
question I can't get answered - how is it going to fit in my garage.
Don't call me soft for wanting to put a LandRover in a garage - I work
abroad currently and need to store it safely when away from home. As the
garage only has about 6'2" of headroom I thought I could maybe use a set
of slave wheels with no tyres to get in the garage. Could someone please
measure up their Disco and see if this option is feasible.

Do those silly roof rails remove easily without leaving gaing holes in
the roof ?

And yes I will be doing the job properly and upping the garage roof when
I have time and finances.

As for the something more individual, how about a Steyr Puch Pinzgauer.
>From the signature you can see I'm currently based in Nigeria, the army
here use Pinzgauer's by the thousand. There is a rumour that they sell
them off cheap, anyone got any experience of either the Pinzgauer itself
or indeed the logistics of purchasing an ex-army vehicle and shipping it
from Africa to UK. Yes I would consider driving it across country if I
could get it up to scratch locally.

Thats all for now, I promise less lurking and more email/chat/listing
call it what you will.

--
FROM:
        Andy Marshallsay
        PECC Unix Consultant to Mobil Producing Nigeria
-------------------------------------+------------------------------------------
DISCLAIMER:                          |  Tel       Mobil   +234 1 2621640 x 2283
Any comments or statements made are  |  VoiceMail Nigeria +234 1 2030766
not those of Mobil Corporation, its  |  Tel/Fax   Nigeria +234 1 2611785
subsidiaries or affiliates           |  Tel/Fax   UK      +44 1202 582379
                                     |  email     Mobil   axmarsha@lag.mobil.com

From JDolan2109@aol.com Thu Sep 7 07:45:49 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 07:45:49 -0400
From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Subject: 'Tossed' tranny?
Well, today (wednesday) it seems that bad things come in heavy packages!
"May", my '61 LR daily driver, tossed her tranny. Not even a big crash and
bang. Just malfunction. Symptoms, all with clutch out (pedal up):
Grinding/whining noise in 1,2,3,4
No vehicle movement in 1,2,3,4 (noise only)
No difference in low or high ranges 
No difference in or out of OD
No  vehicle movement in 2 or 4 WD, gears engaged (noise only)
Reverse (only) seems to work suprisingly with not much noise
No noise when transfer case in neutral, gears engaged, clutch out
No difficulty in any gear engagement (obviously at levers only)

My guess is that the main shaft has 'gone south'. I've had a bad feeling
about a couple of the thrust washers in the main box for quite a while (well,
maybe about 50K). I now think that an occasional 'hammering' effect caused by
their insufficiency (and my lack of compensation) is at the root of this
bigger problem.
I've thus far pulled the floors and the seat box is about to come out
shortly. The oil in the transfer case was nice and clean (free of metal). I
have to yet drain the main box itself but think that will be 'fouled'.
I realize I have to replace both units (trans. & transfer), but what I'm
immediately after is a glimpse down through the top cover, so I can analyze
things a bit more as I take a couple of minutes 'break'. Then its on with the
inevitable: R&R of the boxes. Thank goodness I have a couple of spares!!!
Don't ever throw anything out!
Any thoughts on what the problem is and why? Once I find out for sure I'll
post it here.
See 'ya on the old road... (well, in a couple of days anyway...)
Jim  '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's   (econobox?)
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! 
 P.S. Just a closing 'thankyou' to the chap on the design team who put that
screw type floorboard fastener right underneath the E-brake lever. Hope you
sleep well tonight!

From Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Thu Sep 07 07:49:00 1995 
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 95 07:49:00 DST
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Miles to go before I sleep
|Once he's finished - Zimbabwe, here I
|come!
|     Alan

Zimbabwe is it and you say Grimsby's too far!!!!

From Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Thu Sep 07 07:56:00 1995 
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 95 07:56:00 DST
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Petards and Firkins
Skip Wharton writes

" I've heard of being hoist by your own petard, but what the hell is a
        dewberry-firkin??!!"

I don't know for sure, but a firkin is a large barrel and dewberries are 
presumably berries harvested in the morning. Now why anyone would be hoisted 
by theirs I don't know.  BTW a petard is a small wind therefore to be 
hoisted by ones own is to be lifted by a fart!!!

Trevor "fount of useless knowledge" Easton

From DieselBobI@aol.com Thu Sep 7 07:59:19 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 07:59:19 -0400
From: DieselBobI@aol.com
Subject: phone #---Griots Garage
Griots can be reached at 1-800-345-5789

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Thu Sep 7 07:17:48 1995 
Date:          Thu, 7 Sep 1995 07:17:48 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: 'Tossed' tranny?
> Well, today (wednesday) it seems that bad things come in heavy packages!
> "May", my '61 LR daily driver, tossed her tranny. Not even a big crash and
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Reverse (only) seems to work suprisingly with not much noise
> No noise when transfer case in neutral, gears engaged, clutch out
> No difficulty in any gear engagement (obviously at levers only)
I've seen the mainshaft shear where it enters the bell housing. If I 
remember right, that would fit your symptoms. If that's the case you 
may not need to replace gears. If you're *real* lucky. 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk> Thu Sep 07 13:15:00 1995 
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 95 13:15:00 GMT
From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: RE: 'Tossed' tranny?
Jim  '61 88" SW / OD

Your problem sounds very similar to a problem a friend of mine had recently. 
 In this instance the problem was with a Volvo (I know ... I'm sorry to 
mention them).  With this he lost all forward gears BUT retained reverse. 
 The cause was a shot overdrive.

I realise the Land Rover and Volvo are worlds apart, but it may be food for 
thought.

TJD.

tdelve@nectech.co.uk

From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> 7 95 Sep EDT
 1908 
Date:  7 Sep 95  8:21:36 EDT
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Neat toy found in auto-parts store....
Yeah, I know, I have to get a life...8*)

Whilst picking up a gallon of 90wt for my
109, I ran across this delightful litte pump
kit for lubricants.

It's basically a large aluminum syringe with a check
valve and a small hose (which I immediately discarded
and replaced with a 4-foot piece of fuel line).
You put the end into your container of lubricant and the
hose into the orifice to be filled, and pump the syringe
barrel.

This little gadget makes doing tranny fills and lube jobs almost fun!

Don't remember what I paid for it, but it didn't induce sticker
shock.

   Alan

From Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu> Thu Sep 7 09:03:47 1995 
Date: Thu,  7 Sep 1995 09:03:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: I'm SORRY!
Dear Shunichi;
's OK, s'alright, you're forgiven.
But I'm not quite sure what you did wrong?
Anyway, relax, have a beer, 
and I will too.
Happy Rovering
Jon
 
Dear Dixon and All !!
 
I apologize to my careless. 
I used "LR logo" my own way. Sorry!
Now 
I removed "LR logo" <body background>.
   will take care from now !!
 
Regars,
 
///   Shunichi Nishi   ///

From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> 7 95 Sep EDT
 1909 
Date:  7 Sep 95  9:16:16 EDT
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Weatherstripping doors - advice please?
Well, now that he has new paint I need to install new weatherstripping on his
door edges and roof.

The type I have is the continuous-band stuff meant to be glued in place. I
was planning on using GE silicone for this - any reason I shouldn't? Also,
any tips on fitting the stuff to minimize leaks would be gratefully accepted.

   aj"Don't like getting wet - or rattling doors"r

From Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com> Thu Sep 7 6:23:29 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 95 6:23:29 PDT
From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Disco Abuse
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> to their ultimate limits and thereby increase our macho status, but, that is not a 
> realistic approach to responsible off-roading.
stuff deleted

I have been very successful at abusing my Range Rover offroad. And
all of it under 5 MPH. Fill a rangie, or a disco up to the gils
4 adults, a kid, assorted camping gear, and travel thru the Canyon lands.

Abusing the truck does not mean abusing the environment. In fact most 
of the trail abuse I have noticed is stupid paths around a "minor" obsticle.
I did not spend 40K on a "Rover" to have to blaze trails around difficult
sections of trail. 

Russ Burns
If you can`t abuse it, why own it.... 

From jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg) Thu Sep 7 09:57:00 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 09:57:00 -0400
From: jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg)
Subject: Re: British Car Meet
>I am going to be at the Palo Alto british car (and truck I guess) meet on

>I guess I should clean it up and give it a good wax job before

You're trolling, right?  Anyhow, rather than putting the vehicle at risk
from harsh chemical cleansers, take a tip from a couple of the guys
(Canadians of course) that I met at the Mid-Atlantic last year. Just put a
sign on the bonnet that says:

                **********************************************
                *                                            *
                *            Please don't touch!             *
                *       You might scratch the mud job.       *
                *                                            *
                **********************************************

I'm told that this is most effective when parked next to concours Jag whose
owner, upon removing the vehicle from its enclosed trailer, immeadiately
gets to work with a spray bottle and chamois.

Enjoy the show.  Cheers.

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg         Purple Shark Media             Rowayton, CT
                        jeff@purpleshark.com
                                *****
Look what happens when you love someone, and they don't love you.
                                       --Warren Zevon, The Heartache
==                                                                 ==

From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Thu Sep 7 10:05:07 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 10:05:07 -0400
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Not Running On Two
Well folks, that rough running that concerned me on the SRIIA 88 after the
complete head overhaul has been solved. And thanks to many of you and your
suggestions I was able to put about 600 miles on the Rover over a Labor Day
weekend camping/canoing trip--all problem free miles.

So, what was wrong, you ask? All the plugs were firing after all; the
intermittent puffs of smoke and idling all over the place turned out to be
a shot PCV non-return diaphram. A replacement diaphram and setting the
timing with a light solved everything! On the trip I consumed only a half
quart of oil and overall got 17 mpg. Amazing. This was an expensive trip
though...$300 for x-rays and attention to a dislocated finger...$300
(estimated) for drying out a Nikon, three lenses and a cellular phone.
Tipped the canoe over in 2 feet of water. Homer Simpson would be proud.
Dooop!

Thanks to the list for all the help with the Rover.

Chris Stevens                   1969 88" IIA SW 2.25

BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, Maryland, USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

From LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil> Thu Sep 7 10:03:48 1995 
Date:     Thu, 7 Sep 95 10:03:48 EDT (1403Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  Neat toy found in auto-parts store....
All,

I found a kit from "Sta-Lube" that is a pump w/clear plastic hose.  Two neat 
features:  The pump fits into any sized lube bottle (or at least Sta-Lube) with
a threaded cap and various length pickup tubes for quart thru gallon bottles.  
Second, it has a gizmo on the supply tube that keeps it in the filler hole 
allowing one hand to hold the bottle & the other to operate the pump.

The whole package goes for less than $5.00.

Regards,

Larry

From ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Thu Sep 7 10:28:41 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 95 10:28:41 EDT
From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Subject: Arcane Abbreviations
Brian Tiedemann asks:

(what do you others mean when you sign off with BT?  It's my initials!)

Brian - BT is a US Navy message abbreviation for "break transmission".  It may 
be protocol for other services or even NATO forces as well - I have no 
experience with them, though.  Despite its sound, it doesn't mean bash your 
tranny on a big rock; it's shorthand for "this is the end of my message".

Lieutenant Commander Scott Fugate, US Navy Reserve
1970 IIA 88
1989 RR

BT

From "Hadley, William H." <whadley@INETGATE.ushmm.org> Thu Sep 07 10:48:26 1995 
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 95 10:48:26 EST
From: "Hadley, William H." <whadley@INETGATE.ushmm.org>
Subject: CrAZy sTuFf...
          Man, I'm diggin' this all over the world stuff.
          Japan, Australia, South Africa, the New World and
          the beautiful United Kingdom. One big fat
          Land Rover world connected with lil' modems.

          Ok, enough of that...I have some info for some of
          you:

          The Griot's Garage Number is 1.800.345.5789.
          These people have a Fresh catalog. Lot's of fun
          stuff. A bit pricey but full of "hard to finders"
          like small rubber pads to fit over our jack stands
          so as not to bruise our Rovers, hehehe :-o. But,
          they do have some other stuff that could be most
          useful to many of us.

          Saw a movie the other night with a Series III 109"
          Station Wagon in it. It was called "Straight to
          Hell" and was a cross between "High Plains
          Drifter" and "Pulp Fiction." HHHmmmm... It was
          full of interesting people like Joe Strummer from
          "The Clash", Dennis Hopper, Grace Jones, Courtney
          Love, Jim Jarmusch, and "The Pogues." The 109" is
          in the last scene for about 30 seconds.

          (Subject change)
          I will be heading to London on November 8th
          through the 15th and want to check out some Rover
          stores for accessories and small parts. I saw that
          Brownchurch is in town does anyone else know of
          some other places?
          Also, anyone in England want to give me a job? I
          can leave tomorrow. I think "Nessie" would be
          happier at home.

          Thanks to everyone for help on the door latch fuel
          tank question...

          Sandy, I am sending a check for the
          "Mid-Atlantic..." can I write one check for that
          and my membership?"

          Hope that wasn't too long...

          Will Hadley
          Exhibitions Department
          United States Holocaust Memorial Museum
            whadley@ushhmm.org
            PhatRover@aol.com
          Washington,DC
          202.337.1232

          Series IIa 88" SW "Nessie"(the lil' green monsta'
                                     that's rarely seen)

From Sanna@aol.com Thu Sep 7 11:10:05 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 11:10:05 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: Free range
>(Apparently in Tunisia, the highways have the best grazing.)

They do everywhere.  The water run off from the asphalt gives an extra
measure to the grass growing along side.

Tony

From Alan Clements <alan@slaphead.demon.co.uk> Thu Sep 7 15:09:39 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 15:09:39 GMT
From: Alan Clements <alan@slaphead.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Petrol to diesel conversation
I have the chance of buying a turbo diesel engine, 5 speed gearbox and radiator 
from a Defender 90, (1986), to put into my series III, 88.  Can anybody advise 
me as to any problems I may encounter in the conversion or any tips or items 
required to do so.

Also, as we are new to the LR ownership game, could anybody please tell me of 
the best new & s/hand spares/add-ons outlets within the UK .

Many thanks Alan. 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Alan Clements    EMail Alan@Slaphead.demon.co.uk                        |
| You shouldn't have joined if you couldn't take a joke !  |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu Sep 07 08:36:47 1995 
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 1995 08:36:47 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: 'Tossed' tranny?
 Jim Dolan <JDolan2109@aol.com> writes:

>Well, today (wednesday) it seems that bad things come in heavy packages!
 "May", my '61 LR daily driver, tossed her tranny. Not even a big crash and
 bang. Just malfunction. Symptoms, all with clutch out (pedal up):
 Grinding/whining noise in 1,2,3,4
 No vehicle movement in 1,2,3,4 (noise only)
 No difference in low or high ranges 
 No difference in or out of OD
 No  vehicle movement in 2 or 4 WD, gears engaged (noise only)
 Reverse (only) seems to work suprisingly with not much noise
 No noise when transfer case in neutral, gears engaged, clutch out
 No difficulty in any gear engagement (obviously at levers only)

 Cruising along in 'ol Ralph, my ex-'73 III 88" one day to hear a loud
 explosive pop and grind in all gears.  Towed him back and he sat for 9
 months while I contemplated tranny work... finally took the box out to
 find pieces of the clutch falling out from the bell housing.  It had
 shattered in a half-a-dozen major pieces and would grind every time I'd
 let the clutch out in all gears.  New clutch and throwout bearing and he
 was "back on the 'ol road" (sorry, was that your slogan?) :)

 Michael Carradine         ?           '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at
 cs@crl.com                _\    __      http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
                          [__[__[__]
 _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________

From Sanna@aol.com Thu Sep 7 14:06:41 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 14:06:41 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: Arcane Abbreviations
>Lieutenant Commander Scott Fugate, US Navy Reserve
>1970 IIA 88
>1989 RR

Nice choice of vehicles, Scott.  I've got a '70 IIa (I bought it new) with
1/3 million miles on the clock, and an '89 RR with about 90K.  Lullubelle and
Annabelle, respectively.  I bought the RR used from A-B two years ago.

The RR has always had a problematic front end.  She suffers from wandering on
the road, and for a brief time, she went "whap, whap, whap" up there while
cornering.  All my mechanic could find wrong were the tie-rod ends, but now
that they're replaced it's gotten much worse.  How's your experience been?

Tony 
Madison, WI

From John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Thu Sep 7 11:44:38 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 11:44:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Arcane Abbreviations
On Thu, 7 Sep 1995 Sanna@aol.com wrote:

> The RR has always had a problematic front end.  She suffers from wandering on
> the road, and for a brief time, she went "whap, whap, whap" up there while
> cornering.  All my mechanic could find wrong were the tie-rod ends, but now
> that they're replaced it's gotten much worse.  How's your experience been?

Have you tried adjusting the slack in the steering box, and replacing the 
Panhard Rod bushings and steering damper (for the latter use the genuine 
part as I've tried aftermarket ones that made the problem 10 times worse)?

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

From ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Thu Sep 7 16:02:05 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 95 16:02:05 EDT
From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Subject: re: Re: Arcane Abbreviations
Sanna@aol.com Wrote:

 The RR has always had a problematic front end.  She | suffers from wandering 
on the road, and for a brief time, she went  "whap, whap,  whap" up there 
while cornering.  All my mechanic could find wrong were the  tie-rod ends, but 
now that they're  replaced it's gotten much worse.  How's your experience 
been?

Tony,

My 89 RR has had no such problems, but has only about 30K miles on the clock.  
I have only had it since early May.  It belonged to a guy who made a fortune 
in the coal mining business, I understand, and was one of about 6 vehicles in 
his stable.  When I bought it, it had several niggling things wrong with it 
(brought about from non-use), and a severely leaky steering box.  It had set 
still so much there were dirt dauber (this is the Southern term - don't know 
what you Yankees call 'em) nests on the block and air plenum.   Every thing 
has been fixed but a non-functioning cruise control.  Will set about that 
directly.  

I can only speculate about your wanderer (Maybe it should be named Dion 
instead).  I would check 1) Steering linkage all the way from steering wheel 
to the box. 2) Box adjustment - not sure if they're adjustable.  The Series 
boxes are.  Consult manual.  3) Front wheel swivels.  Jack up front wheel an 
try to detect free movement by wrestling the wheel in all directions. 4) Toe 
adjustment.  5) Funky tires.  I had some recaps on a IH Scout one time that 
seemed to have a mind of their own.

Try talking to gurus at Rovers North, AB, or DAP, if you're a customer or 
potential customer.  Seems they've seen it all.  That route has helped me many 
times over.

Good Luck!

Scott Fugate
1970 IIA 88
1989 RR

From "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu> Thu Sep 7 14:47:51 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 14:47:51 -0600 (MDT)
From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: to:  Chris Haslam (schematic diagrams)
Sorry to bug the list, but I lost Chris Haslam's address.

My mailer crashed on receipt of that huge schematic.  I don't think I can 
handle it.  Maybe Ray Harder or Lloyd Allison can find a spot for it?

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

From Gary Mitchelson <garym@cais.cais.com> Thu Sep 07 18:01:42 1995 
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 95 18:01:42 -0500
From: Gary Mitchelson <garym@cais.cais.com>
Subject: Re: Rovers and Ham (radio, that is)
-- [ From: Gary Mitchelson * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------

> I stand proud with the porcine members of the list...<grin>
> As a matter of fact, anybody got a good suggestion for mounting a 2

meter/440
> antenna without punching holes in the old aluminum beast? 

On my Discovery I have a Comet 2M/440 Mhz ant (about 56" long) mounted on
the Comet RS-81 door/hatchback mount on the rear door. It clamps down on a
malleable strip and is rubber backed as not to mar the paint. It folds over
in a second or completely comes off almost as easy. It has a cable assy that
has a very thin teflon coax lead (about 12") that goes thru the door seal
and the rest is rather thick 5 MM coax that reaches unseen all the way to my
dual band HT mounted on the center console.
--
Gary Mitchelson                     
garym@racalrecord.com                                
N3JPU

From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Thu Sep 7 18:50:49 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 18:50:49 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Weber adapters
One of the lads in the club has developed an adapter plate to mate the two 
barrel Weber up to the stock LR intake manifold.  Beautiful execution - no 
need for an expensive manifold.  If there is any interest, I'm sure he'll be 
glad to mill a few for a moderate cost.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Tue Sep 5 21:14:50 1995 
Date: Tue,  5 Sep 95 21:14:50 PDT
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: RE: Lack of Power on Cold Start 
No problems with power hot or cold on my IIA, once its started....

Fuel vapourisation does not appear to have been the cause of my 
starting problems since I am still having problems now we have 
returned to more normal UK weather (ie rain).

-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Tue Sep 5 20:49:33 1995 
Date: Tue,  5 Sep 95 20:49:33 PDT
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: Part No. 501244-How to fit?
I am in the early stages of procuring the parts to fit a left hand 
fuel tank to my '68 IIA.  The optional extra kit (part number 
607074) includes a bolt-on forward outrigger.  This is secured by 
means of five bolts screwed into five inserts no. 501244 whicha 
would appear to fit into the side of the main chassis rail.  I have 
obtained some of these.  They consist of a light alloy cylinder with 
an internal thread for about half the length.  At the opposite end 
is a flange.  I am wondering how these are fitted.

My theory is that a close fitting hole is drilled in the chassis, 
the insert pushed into the hole and a bolt inserted and tightened 
up.  This causes the end of the insert to bulge in much the same way 
as a pop rivet, thus securing the insert in the chassis.

Can anyone confirm this? Does anyone have experience of fitting a 
left hand tank?

Any advice greatly appreciated.
-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Tue Sep 5 21:04:29 1995 
Date: Tue,  5 Sep 95 21:04:29 PDT
From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk
Subject: RE: Replacing Busted Half Shafts 
If you saw my post of about two weeks ago you will know that I 
recently had my half shafts out.  I found considerable wear on the 
splines of both shafts and have decided to renew them along with the 
drive flanges in order to avoid a future failure and possible damage 
to my newly reconditioned differential.

Both shafts and the flanges are still available from L/R.  Price in 
the UK for the two shafts and two flanges was approx 150.  Didn't 
trust cheaper aftermarket parts when genuine parts seem to be only 
just up to the job.  Hopefully I'll get another 27 years out of 
them...
-------------------------------------
Tony Chapman
HAWTEC                   Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200
Haswell House            Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338
Saint Nicholas Street    Mobile: 0973 316835
Worcester
WR1 1UW

E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk

From smarsh@halcyon.com Thu Sep 7 17:02:26 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 17:02:26 -0700
From: smarsh@halcyon.com
Subject: Anyone heard from Robin Craig Lately
Anyone heard from Robin Craig, Ottawa Valley Land Rovers. It appears that his 
last e-mail address is no longer valid.

regards,
Steve Marsh

From David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> Thu Sep 7 17:33:20 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 17:33:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Part No. 501244-How to fit?
On Tue, 5 Sep 1995 Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk wrote:
[regarding installation of LH tank.....] 
> My theory is that a close fitting hole is drilled in the chassis, 
> the insert pushed into the hole and a bolt inserted and tightened 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> Can anyone confirm this? Does anyone have experience of fitting a 
> left hand tank?

Dear Tony,
I believe that you are *absolutely* correct regarding the fasteners. I 
installed front mudflaps on my US spec. D90 (Part No. RTC9479), which 
utilized "rivnuts" (the instructions called them M6 rivnuts, and 
instructed for a 9mm hole to be drilled.) I thought that the thing might 
spin around inside the hole in the frame member (in this case, holes were 
drilled in the front outriggers), but they snugged up well.

I have no specific info regarding fitting a left hand tank....
 
Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum

From BobandSueB@aol.com Thu Sep 7 21:14:01 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 21:14:01 -0400
From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Subject: LROA/General Meeting Update
Steve Hill, LROA President, sent us the following meeting notice for
publication on the net:

Attention!            Attention!              Attention!
             Attention!

Land Rover Owner's Association, North America invites all members to the next
Steering Committee Meeting.

Location:  Best Western Motel, Conference Room, Dixon, CA (See map below)

Date/Time:  Sunday, September 17, 1995 @ 11:00 a.m.

Decisions regarding the long range planning and reorganization of the club
are to be discussed, along with a current financial report, and presentation
regarding the Club magazine "The Aluminum Workhorse."

Please RSVP to Steve Hill by Thursday, September 14, 1995 at
916 868-0715.  Looking forward to seeing many of you there.

                                      Pitt School Rd.
                                               |

Vacaville---------------------------------|-----------------------------------
----------Davis
                  ( I - 80 )                  |         ______________
                                               |---------| Best Western  |
                                               |         |_____________|
    Dennys
                                               |
                                    McDonald's
                                               |
                                           Dixon

Steve Hill, President
LROA 916 868-0715   

From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri Sep 8 11:23:43 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 11:23:43 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re:Sta-lube pumps
Larry tells us of the joys of Sta-lube pumps:

For the OZ contingent these things are available at some auto parts stores
though you may have to hunt for them and they are more like ~$15  than $5
:-(.

Still very worth the price just for the saving in aggravation.
Here in Oz be aware that the pump doers not fit all manufacturers containers.
Penrite, Valvoline, Penzoil are among some that it *Usually*  does fit.
Castrol, BP, Shell, Mobil  are  *usually* not suitable.
Check the lid before you buy...

cheers

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)
  

From ecoethic@rcinet.com Thu Sep 7 22:24:14 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 1995 22:24:14 -0400
From: ecoethic@rcinet.com
Subject: Re: Rover Abuse
I have gotten more response privately and publicly to my message about "Disco 
Abuse" than on any other topic yet. I find this to be heartening as it relates to 
one of my chief interests. Currently I am pursuing my Ph.D. in Environmental 
Studies and I am deeply into the literature of environmental ethics and human 
ecology. The issue of "Rover Abuse" that obviously has different meanings to 
many of you, needs to be discussed. We spend a lot of time on mechanical 
details, and that is very useful for all of us, but what about the philosophical 
basis of our relationship with our vehicle and our attitudes towards the 
environment we explore in it?

Some people use the term "abuse" to articulate their desire to fully use their 
vehicle to its design limits in an expression of joy and wonderment at how 
capable Rovers are, much as an athlete finds extreme satisfaction after making a 
supreme effort. For others, the term is as disturbing as "physical abuse" of a 
person. Rovers are quality machines that deserve respect and should not be 
subjected to Camel Trophy conditions without sufficient reason. Just as it 
would be considered "abuse" to toss a high-quality micrometer across the room 
to land on a workbench, frog-leaping moguls when there is not a sufficient reason 
to be in such a hurry is abuse. Perhaps the term "abuse" should be dropped to 
avoid misunderstanding. We "work" our Rovers, we facilitate situations under 
which the mechanical workings of the Rover are fully articulated within design 
parameters. And above all, we are always eager for the opportunity to pull out a 
stuck Jeep! But, do we really want to break and bend parts to satisfy our 
maschismo?

The real crux of the problem is our attitude as a society towards the 
environment. The prevailing view has placed us apart from nature in a 
dominating and controlling paradigm. Mankind (and I do not mean personkind) 
has treated natural resources as objects to be exploited. I hold the view that all 
species of life and all forms of matter have inherent worth (or intrinsic value) 
apart from our use or conception of them. When I see young punks (excuse the 
expression) in their hopped up Jeeps with oversized tires flying across trails 
completely unmindful of the wildlife in the area or what damage they are doing 
to the species of plant life their tires have spun on, I am appalled. We must curb 
this kind of behavior in all of its degrees or we will continue to lose access to 
natural areas. I personally do not think the "Tread Lightly" organization goes far 
enough in spreading the original message it was created to spread.

How about it gang, what are your thoughts? If any group of off-roaders can lead 
the way in being environmentally sensitive, it has to be this group.

Walt Pokines

Tipp City, Ohio

From Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Fri Sep 8 13:13:40 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 13:13:40 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Range wiring diagrams
I'd be interested in the Rangie wiring diagrams (electronically)

Sending them uuencoded or as a media mail attachment should be ok

(your email seems to bounce)

Lloyd
Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA
tel: 61 3 9905 5205      fax: 61 3 9905 5146      email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au

From jpappa01@interserv.com Thu Sep 7 20:57:44 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 95 20:57:44 PDT
From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Subject: Re: 	D90 for sale
A super-clean 1994 D90 is for sale from a friend of mine who is *not* on line:

1994 NAS D90/AA YELLOW/28K MILES/truly *NEVER* off-road/totally 
sound-treatment; all door panels Dynamatted/`95 BFG A/T tires/`95 ROM 
chipset/Lamp guards/2 Tops: Hardtop + full Tickford soft top/ Rear safari 
cage. Only 10K miles on new tires. Balance factory warranty. Additional 
accessories available. Offers around $27,000. Talk to Conrad O'Mansky at 
1-800-634-5315 ext. 116 days or leave message at night. 

I have seen this truck regularly and can vouch for how nice it really is. This 
unit has been detailed to death! Very, very nice! 

From jpappa01@interserv.com Thu Sep 7 21:21:30 1995 
Date: Thu, 7 Sep 95 21:21:30 PDT
From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Subject: Re: latest on D90 SW & other models
re: D90 SW

Three color lineup is maintained: Alpine White, Conniston Green, Arles Blue 
(!)
Full headliner/sunroof/4 jumpseats in back/D110 doors/sliding rear side 
windows/roof panel is white/seats are cloth tweed as in D110/rear defrost + 
wiper-washer. Price still not announced. Initial deliveries now expected in 
October.

re: 1996 Range Rover

No more Range Rover Classic.

4.0 SE continues largely unchanged except new colors: Willow Green/Niagara 
Grey/Altai Silver. Porto Red/Roman Bronze/Aspen Silver are gone... Price up 
about 1,000.

4.6 HSE debuts in limited quantities and limited to Beluga Black and Rioja 
Red. Come with  18"(!) wheel/tire combo w/low-profile Pirellis (255/55 HR18). 
And (!) HomeLink programmable garage door/gate opening system(!). Price? 
62,625(!).

re: 1996 Discovery

Consolidation of option matrix
Base stick model no price change at 30575 (frt. included). Base model now 
available in all colors.
Loaded model includes 8-way power seats, fog lamps (ala Range Rover), standard 
rear hydraulic step, special rims,etc. Price up about 2,000 on loaded model.
All models feature 4.0 engine (detuned to 182 hp -same as last year's 3.9 but 
with slightly bumped up torque and improved EPA highway of 18 on manual tranny 
model). Lighted  vanity mirrors both sides/auto-dimming rear view 
mirror/additional turn signals in the body-mounted tail lights/A-pillar 
mounted super-tweeters/CD-player mounting position improved for in-cabin 
access. *Rearward seat travel extended by 20mm on all models.*

Additional info. as I receive it. Look for comprehensive road tests of all 
models in upcoming issues of Rover Reference.

cheerz
Jim - roborover

`67 2A 88 5.0L Hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L Hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C Diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 #457/500
`95 D90 #1958

From BobandSueB@aol.com Fri Sep 8 00:48:30 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 00:48:30 -0400
From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Subject: Re: LROA/General Meeting Update
Hi all,

The *map* in the copy of the meeting notice that we received  back on the net
is a disaster.  Suggest anyone needing directions call Steve Hill at 916
868-0715.  Or e-mail us.  Sorry the map is such a mess, it looked good before
I sent it.   So much for my artwork!  ; (

Cheers,

Sue Bernard, LROA,NA
BobandSueB@aol.com

From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri Sep 8 14:23:05 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 14:23:05 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: 4.6 HSE pricing
Jim tells us:
> 4.6 HSE debuts in limited quantities and limited to Beluga Black and Rioja 
> Red. Come with  18"(!) wheel/tire combo w/low-profile Pirellis (255/55 HR18). 
> And (!) HomeLink programmable garage door/gate opening system(!). Price? 
> 62,625(!).

Well here in Adelaide Sth OZ, we certainly have a wider choice of colours for
the HSE, but they are $112 000 AUD + dealer, delivery, On road costs etc.
(Entry level Disco's are mid $40K's)  I'm not going to try to convert,
remember what happened last time :-)

Hasnt stopped the sales though.  There are quite a few about, none in the
LRRSA though :-(

Oh well, just a thought.

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu Sep 07 21:10:09 1995 
Date: Thu, 07 Sep 1995 21:10:09 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)
 Walt Pokines <ecoethic@rcinet.com> of Tipp City, Ohio, USA writes:

>When I see hopped up Jeeps with oversized tires flying across trails
>completely unmindful of the wildlife in the area or what damage they are doing
>to the species of plant life their tires have spun on, I am appalled.

 Here in California there are many State operated Off-Highway Motor Vehicle
 Recreational areas where motorcycles and 4x4's are free to operate their
 vehicles as they please.  Also there are several hundred published trails
 throughout the state for off-highway driving in addition to many more unmarked
 or undocumented trails and roads.  This leaves no excuse for Yahoo behaviour
 on the rest of the state lands reserved or otherwise environmentally protected.

>I personally do not think the "Tread Lightly" organization goes far 
>enough in spreading the original message it was created to spread.

 Unfortunately not.  Looking forward to the recent Tread Lightly! newsletter
 in anticipation of interesting member activities, meets, trails, or events
 I was disappointed to find that most of the space was dedicated to corporate
 news and announcements such as a Board of Directors meeting at some exclusive
 destination resort.  Not much doing on the grass roots level, just featuring
 the Tread Lightly! slogan as advertising to appease and sell products to the
 masses.

>How about it gang, what are your thoughts? If any group of off-roaders can
lead 
>the way in being environmentally sensitive, it has to be this group.

 Sorry chaps!  The Unimog people, operating the most powerful 4x4 in the worldFrom Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Fri Sep 8 00:18:45 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 00:18:45 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy '96
I wanna go!

> non-stop 30 hour trial in northern California in December.  Four will 

Hmm...  

> Expect: tree-dwelling leeches, thigh deep mud, insects the size of diner 
> plates 

Mmm...  But maybe I could bring along some McNuggets, just for a taste of 
home?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

From sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Fri Sep 8 10:26:59 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 95 10:26:59 BST
From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: V6 & gearing
My lightweight actually has completely standard gearing.  I have thought
about an overdrive in the past but I don't think they are strong enough for
use with a V6 (or any other engine of increased power).  I'm not totally
sure on this but I think I heard that the problem lies in the lubrication of
the overdrive, it relies on oil being thrown about the transfer box to reach
as far as the od.

If you do have an overdrive on something of more power it is a good idea only
to use it in low load situations, such as cruising (without a heavy trailer)
rather than as another gear while accelerating.

A friend of mine also has a V6 (3.0) lightweight and he has Range Rover
diffs fitted which make quite a difference.  I don't know the ratios so I
don't know what the change of overall gearing is.

My car has however got larger tyres.  They are actually 30x9.5x15.  They came
on the car when I got it with the 2.25 engine.  Even before the engine swap
I could get to 70MPH.  I think the overall size of the tyres is similar to
the more normal 750x16.  7.50+7.50+16 = 31 inches nominally.  Compared to
the normal tyres on an 88" (are they 6.50?) 750s give an overall increase in
gearing of 17%, an overdrive gives 25%, but only when engaged obviously so
low ratio work in unaffected.  The diffs, like the tyres are always effective
so if low ratio engine braking/pulling power are crucial to you be warned.

My mate had RR diffs & 750s which did reduce the engine noise considerably
but it is hard to compare the two vehicles as he had no rev counter and lots
of sound proofing.  I rarely have carpet!

As far as top speed goes I can cruise at 85 MPH (on private land officer!)
and the top speed is around 100MPH.  90MPH corresponds to 5000 revs.  This
gives a theoretical to speed of 105.  I've never tried.  It is so bloody
noisy at 95-100 that I have never taken it any faster.  It will probably pull
max revs or get pretty close.  Does any body want to go faster in a series
vehicle?

More relaxed cruising would be nice though and I could sacrifice some
acceleration to get it.  My plan is to someday fit a modified transfer box
which has a higher ratio high but low is unchanged.  They are available off the
shelf.  Should survive the power, not affect my off-roading and help my poor
ears!

My V6 is a later 2.8l by the way

On another matter altogether ceramic winch fuses are readily available here
from the likes of David Bowyer and other winch sellers.  They also recommend
welding cable because of the skin effect.  I would always fit a kill switch
as well as the fuse and I would fit a kill switch to the main electrics
as well.  For those with radios, clocks, etc. which need continuous power
fit a small fused supply in parallel to the cut off and it will blow if some
low life tries to start the car (or if you forget to reconnect the main power).

It took me 40 minutes to hot wire my rally car when I lost the key for the
switch. And I knew what the unlabeled terminals where for!  Most of the time
was taken dismantling the dash to get at the back of the switch.

Hope that answers the question! Steve

From Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Fri Sep 8 10:40:11 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 95 10:40:11 BST
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: ECOFLOW
Dont know how it works,but even 20% isnt much when you're
only getting between,say,15-20mpg in the first place.Take
a long time to break even on the outlay.
It isnt reputed to be much good on diesel engines,either.
Personally,I reckon a Kenlowe electric fan is a better
fuel saver.YMMV,of course.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

From Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Fri Sep 8 10:38:31 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 10:38:31 +0100 (BST)
From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: French lessons
A petard is in fact a mine used to blow up castle gates/walls etc.
Premature detonation would result in being hoist by your own petard.
A certain French premier and a certain Polynesian atoll spring to
mind...

-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

From Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Fri Sep 8 10:48:14 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 95 10:48:14 BST
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re : ECOFLOW
> Does anyone know anything about the ECOFLOW device?
>From the adverts, it appears to just clamp over the fuel line and improves
> the fuel consumption by up to 20% as well as reducing hydro-carbons and
 carbon monoxide.
> I have been told that the device is a magnet of some sort, but =A344.00=
  seems
> a bit pricey for a magnet.
 I am interested in the principles behind the device so any ideas anyone?

There was a big hoo-hah about this a year or so ago, and Which? 
independently tested Ecoflow and a number of similar devices.
If I remember correctly, Ecoflow was the magnetic one as mentioned
above.  There were also 'activated pellets' you placed in the tank
and a device which injected steam into the inlet manifold.

I do not remember specifics, but the outcome was than none of the 
devices had any effect on the peformance of a correctly (leanly)
tuned vehicle - The 'balls in tank' and magnetic clamp-on got a 
real slamming scientifically and on results.  They seemed less sure
about the steam thingy.

I have no personal experience of any of the above things, but Which?
confirmed my gut reaction which was that if these things really did
improve consumption, car companies would be fitting them to improve
their figures for marketing purposes.
 
{then again there is the conspiracy theory that oil companies are 
 preventing the introduction of these devices... ?!!}

I'd want more than the blurb on the TV/packet as proof before I
parted with my $.

Skeptically yours,

Andy Grafton
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk 

From Mark Murphy <Mark.Murphy@evolving.com> Fri Sep 8 05:36:56 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 05:36:56 -0600
From: Mark Murphy <Mark.Murphy@evolving.com>
Subject: De-tuned 3.9 in the Discovery
I noticed in one of yesterdays messages, that the Discovery is 
"detuned to 182 hp -same as last year's 3.9 but with slightly 
bumped up torque and improved EPA highway of 18 on manual 
tranny model". 

How was the 3.9 detuned? 
What would be involved in "retuning" the 3.9?

thanks,
Mark
mmurphy@evolving.com

From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Fri Sep 08 05:48:05 1995 
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 95 05:48:05 -0500
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Subject: my demise, Robin Craig
Contrary to popular opinion my e mail address does still function and I 
am still breathing. I have been away from the net and my computer due to 
a flurry of end of summer activities.

Rgds

ROBIN CRAIG

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

From Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk> Fri Sep 8 12:28:08 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 12:28:08 GMT
From: Gerald Tan <gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Arcane Abbreviations
"Whap whap whap" when cornering normally indicates problems with universal 
joints. Wandering Front ends could well be panhard rod bushes knackered!

Hope this helps.

Gerald

-- 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Gerald Tan    EMail gtan@bbchw.demon.co.uk                              |
| "The opinions expressed here are my very own"                           |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Fri Sep 8 08:31:47 1995 
Date:          Fri, 8 Sep 1995 08:31:47 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       LR calender
Someone stateside was going to put together a LR calender, but I 
can't remember who it was. Did you ever get a Lightweight photo for 
it?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Fri Sep 8 09:35:09 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 09:35:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Anyone heard from Robin Craig Lately
On Thu, 7 Sep 1995 smarsh@halcyon.com wrote:

> Anyone heard from Robin Craig, Ottawa Valley Land Rovers. It appears that his 
> last e-mail address is no longer valid.

	fourfold.ocunix.on.ca is still alive and robin does have an account
	on the system.  Whether he is responding to his mail is entirely
	another question...

From "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Fri Sep 8 15:23:12 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 15:23:12 +0100
From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: Re: V6 & gearing
Another data point:

I used to run a V8 Lightweight.  I had RR diffs and 750's.  The RR
diffs are 3.54's and the standard LR's are 4.7's.  70mph came at about
3000rpm or a little above.  It was going proportionately faster at
5000rpm! ;-) (and louder by an order of magnitude or more).  I enjoyed
it no end both off road and in the outside lane of the M5 with the top
off, 'course if I'd rolled it I'd have been toast.

LR never gave the 88" V8 power because they were too twitchy on the
cart springs with the SWB.  The 109" was considered less likely to
have its back wheels overtake the front, hence the Stage 1.

Now I have a 2 door RR, which is effectively lower geared due to
running 205's.  These 2 doors really take off from the lights tho'.
The V6 is certainly easier to fit into a LR, but doesn't sound like
the Rover V8!  Nothing else does.

Best Regards,
Steve.

From "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> Fri Sep 8 07:47:09 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 07:47:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: French lessons
On Fri, 8 Sep 1995, Tom Stevenson wrote:

> A petard is in fact a mine used to blow up castle gates/walls etc.
> Premature detonation would result in being hoist by your own petard.
> A certain French premier and a certain Polynesian atoll spring to
> mind...

This is true.  However, the etymology of 'petard' is traced back through
the French and Latin in a long winded series of terms that all relate to
the expulsion of intestinal gasses. 

It takes only slightly perverse senses of logic and humor (of which we
seem to have an abundance) to arrive at an explosive device capable of
lifting its bearer into the air under embarrassing circumstances.  Perhaps the
original siege devices contained additional materials to provide an 
olfactory suggestion of intestinal gasses.

Best Regards,

Walt Swain

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
               Walter C. Swain          |  wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us 
               Davis Community Network  |  1988 Range Rover
               Davis, California        |  1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW

From Sanna@aol.com Fri Sep 8 11:02:36 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 11:02:36 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: Arcane Abbreviations
>Have you tried adjusting the slack in the steering box, and replacing the
Panhard Rod bushings and steering damper (for the latter use the genuine part
as I've tried aftermarket ones that made the problem 10 times worse)?

The first thing I had the shop do when I brought the Rover home was tighten
up the steering box, but they went a little too far and took the self
centering out of the wheel.  Then they backed off a bit.  I replaced the
steering dampener right after I bought it (two years ago), and now I've
ordered another one (Bilsten) to replace that.  If I hit a bump during a
turn, the steering wheel will go "wobble, wobble, wobble" for a second or
two.  Brad at A-B swears that it will fix the problem, but it seems like
taking pain pills to cure a broken leg.  Cris at R-N says I need to replace
the shock too, but that the REAL problem is wearing out the dampeners.  He
also suggested that they look for play in the top pin of the swivel pin
housing.  Any experience with this?  When Annabelle's in the shop I'm going
to have them pull one front wheel bearing and CV for inspection too.

Tony

From Sanna@aol.com Fri Sep 8 11:02:26 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 11:02:26 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: re: Re: Arcane Abbreviations
>dirt dauber (this is the Southern term - don't know what you Yankees call
'em)

Mud Daubers.

Thanks for the info.

Tony

From Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk> Fri Sep 08 16:09:00 1995 
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 95 16:09:00 GMT
From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: V6 and Gearing and other bits
Steve,

Out of interest, which gearbox gearbox is fitted to your V6, Ford or Land 
Rover ?.

Also, have you uprated the brakes, or do you just have a tight belt and a 
good set of cycle clips ?.

After driving the Series 1 it became clear that you needed a certain amount 
of telepathic ability to avoid accidents. (or a large anchor).

Cheers,

Trefor,

tdelve@nectech.co.uk

From matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Fri Sep 8 09:10:55 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 09:10:55 -0700
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: '89 RR whap whap
Despite the numerous things that can be worn or out of adjustment in the 
front end of my '88 RR, so far I have traced most of my front end behavioral 
problems to the tires.  For example, PO's tires were abnormally worn and 
unbalanced, so that after getting an alignment I still had the wandering 
syndrome, but it went away as soon as I replaced the tires.  And the new 
tires, being non-stock, caused terrible shaking when cornering on the road 
if inflated to the recommended pressures or below.  Add 10 psi, and the 
shaking was completely gone.

-Matt

From holland@catapent.com (Shannon Holland) Fri Sep 8 09:13:17 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 09:13:17 -0800
From: holland@catapent.com (Shannon Holland)
Subject: Re:    D90 for sale
>95 ROM chipset

what does this mean? part of the electronic ignition unit i presume? is
this something i want for my happy 94 defender to get better gas mileage or
something else useful?

Shannon

From rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Fri Sep 8 09:39:02 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 95 09:39:02 PDT
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: D90 `95 ROM chipset
>A super-clean 1994 D90 is for sale from a friend of mine who is *not* on line:
>1994 NAS D90/AA YELLOW/28K MILES/truly *NEVER* off-road/totally 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>chipset/Lamp guards/2 Tops: Hardtop + full Tickford soft top/ Rear safari 
>cage.

I'd be interested in knowing the differences between the '94 and '95 ROM
chipsets.  I hadn't heard of anyone upgrading a D90 that way prior to 
this email.  Do you have any further details?

Thanks,

-Rick
'94 D90

Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149

From GElam30092@aol.com Fri Sep 8 12:46:43 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 12:46:43 -0400
From: GElam30092@aol.com
Subject: Disco Heights
You wrote:
>Andy Marshallsay <axmarsha@lag.mobil.com>
question I can't get answered - how is it going to fit in my garage."

Soft!?  Nah...I live in Arizona where we hit a stretch of 15 days where the
high was over 115 degrees. A garage is necessary since I  plan on keeping her
for many, many years.  Don't worry, as long as you take out of a long "walk"
several times a week, allow her to get in the mud and dirt, she won't mind.
 But keep the rolling over and playing dead to a minimum!  

As for the height, she's a tall one. According to the diagram on the sun
visor, with the sun roof open, you need 79 inches.  With the sun roof closed
and roof rack intact, you need 77.5 inches.  The rear portion behind the rack
is 76 inches.  Is the roof rack removable w/o leaving holes?  Don't know but
I would doubt it!

Good Luck!
Gerry and "The Great White Hope"  (no leaks yet and we're still happy!)

From David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Fri Sep 8 11:59:40 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 11:59:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Winch set up
Someone was wondering abut the way to cable a DC3 starting motor or any 
electric winch for max power.  I run the same system of a DC3 motor woth 
gears and relays for in and out control.  I found that #4 welders cable 
with "good" grimp on connectors of copper not the cheap type worked 
best.  I also use a key type cut out not just to be able to cut the 
current if there is trouble, but because if someone shorts out the 
external military type connector I use they could winch the bumper off 
with this thing.  The way I have mine set up, is that the relays work 
always and are on a low voltage fuse.  The main current path is direct to 
the battery for ground and to the battery via the key switch for + lead.  
The leads come through the wire grill but if I was doing it again I 
wouldn't go this way I would use a heavy grommet through the wing so I 
could get the grill off without having to disconnect the wires.  You can 
then put the winter cover on without a bulge where the wires come out.  I 
have about 12 feet of "cabtire" extension to an overhead crane control 
box like you see in boat houses etc. and on the other end I have a 
military Cinch-Jones plug which goes into a waterproof connector.  The 
Waterproof connector has a screw cap with a little chain on it.  Inside 
the cap is a rubber gasket making the unit 100% waterproof.  I can stand 
away from cable range with this rig and pull myself out of anything.  
Before I put grade 8 bolts into the frame and across the bumper I 
actually pulled the whole thing off the front of the machine once.  It 
will drag the 88 with all brakes locked without dropping RPM. I use 
stainless cable on it of about 30 feet.  It I need more pull I attach 
more cable to the hook rather than loose pull with lots of wraps of line. 
Dave VE4PN

From Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com> Fri Sep 8 11:24:23 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 95 11:24:23 MDT
From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: Misc D90 stuff
jpappa01@interserv.com advertises:

 >1994 NAS D90/AA YELLOW/28K MILES/truly *NEVER* off-road/totally
  sound-treatment; all door panels Dynamatted/`95 BFG A/T tires/`95 ROM
  chipset/Lamp guards/2 Tops:  Hardtop + full Tickford soft top/ Rear
  safari cage. [remainder deleted]

'95 ROM chipset?  Did LR change the programming for '95?  If so, what
changes were made? (*NEVER* off-road? What a waste!)

jpappa also informs:

 >re: D90 SW
  Three color lineup is maintained:  Alpine White, Conniston Green,
  Arles Blue (!)  Full headliner/sunroof/4 jumpseats in back/D110
  doors/sliding rear side windows/roof panel is white/seats are cloth
  tweed as in D110/rear defrost + wiper-washer.  Price still not
  announced.  Initial deliveries now expected in October.

When I took my D90 in for it's 7.5K service this morning ($41 FYI), my
dealer (Land Rover Colorado Springs) told me that they expected the D90
SW to start around only 32K!  At that price, I'd be tempted to trade
mine ('94 limited, hardtop) for one.  Sure, I'd miss the option of
removing the hardtop and door windows (neither of which I've ever
done...), but with roll down front windows, sliding rear windows, and a
sunroof, ventilation would not be a problem!  I wonder how the full
aluminum hardtop & headliner affect the center of gravity relative to
the fiberglass hardtop?

FYI - LR COS said they were getting a D110 in soon (used, obviously).
>From what was said, I'd expect an asking price in the $45K range.  Didn't
sound like it was pre-sold.

Misc - read in rec.autos.4x4 this morning that approx 3000 HUMMERs have
been sold since '91.  With the discontinuation of the D90, it shouldn't
be too long before the D90 is the more "exclusive" vehicle here in the
US!

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin

From Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com> Fri Sep 8 10:25:23 1995 
Date: Fri,  8 Sep 95 10:25:23 TZ
From: Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: Rover Abuse
To put things in perspective, what I can do (i.e. have done) with the 
Disco would certainly have abused my previous Jeep, not to mention the 
driver. The other thing is that because of the Disco's (and other 
Rovers as well) capabilities, you are much less likely to abuse the 
terrain or the vehicle than with less capable vehicles. Though all 
vehicles are certainly capable of abusing the environment. I believe 
that the vehicles don't cause the damage, it's people that cause the damage.

I try not to abuse my Disco (though it might have a different opinion 
on that lately :-(  ), But I spent the relatively vast sum (for me 
anyway) I did on it for the off-road capabilities it promotes. If I 
wanted a car to keep on the road all the time, I could have got by with 
some much less expensive alternatives.

-- Bob W.
'95 Disco

From John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Fri Sep 8 11:43:25 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 11:43:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: RR Steering Problems
I think I give up at this point and let a dealer fix it, keeping them 
unpaid til it's fixed!!

John Brabyn
89RR

From "Grimes, Sean" <grimes@uf9455p01.minneapolismn.ATTGIS.COM> Thu 07 Sep CDT 1913 
Date: Thu Sep 07 13:45 CDT 1995
From: "Grimes, Sean" <grimes@uf9455p01.minneapolismn.ATTGIS.COM>
Subject: Hardtop info for '95 Defender 90.
I have an interest in the hardtop for the 1995 Defender 90.  Does anyone 
have any experience with this accessory?  I live in Minnesota, USA and I am 
looking for ways to keep the interior warm as possible during the winter. 
 For some reason, I have this belief that the hardtop will help retain heat 
better than the standard softtop.  Also, does the hardtop add much height to 
the vehicle?  It barely fits in my garage as it is, so I have some concern 
there, too.

Thanks in advance for any help,

Sean
sean.grimes@minneapolismn.attgis.com

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Sep 08 11:23:32 1995 
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 1995 11:23:32 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Weird Mail! (Was: Misc D90 stuff)
 Jeff Gauvin,

 How come some of your mail comes in without any headers or subject line?
 The following attachment was your mail in it's entirety --no return name,
 no subject, no signature, nothing!  (Major-Domo on the fritz again?)

 Your not with some subvertive government agency or L-R manufacturer are
 you?   =:o

 PS- I beg to differ with your assertion that Hummers are more "exclusive"
 than D90's.  Fun-Mogs at US$150,000 (Sheesh!) a copy take that award.  :)
 
-Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com

__________________________________________________________________________

X-POP3-Rcpt: cs@mail
sound like it was pre-sold.

Misc - read in rec.autos.4x4 this morning that approx 3000 HUMMERs have
been sold since '91.  With the discontinuation of the D90, it shouldn't
be too long before the D90 is the more "exclusive" vehicle here in the
US!

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Fri Sep 8 14:38:58 1995 
Date:          Fri, 8 Sep 1995 14:38:58 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Dirt/mud daubers
> >dirt dauber (this is the Southern term - don't know what you Yankees call
> 'em)
> Mud Daubers.

Hey, my Aunt (woe to you if you call that fine Southern lady a 
Yankee) called them mud daubers also. I'm not so sure it's a 
north-south thing.
One thing I do know for sure, my LR is a mud dauber (using the 
American Heritage Dictionary as a guide: "To cover or smear with a dirty 
substance, such as mud or grease"). Hmmm, definately the mud part, and 
I guess the oil counts for the grease catagory, right?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Sanna@aol.com Fri Sep 8 18:29:41 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 18:29:41 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Arcane Abbreviations
>If I remember I'll look it up over the weekend and send you the info.

Thanks.  I'd appreciate it.  Since I posted my last message, Annabelle ('89
RR) just tossed her steering fluid.  One of the hoses broke.  I'm dropping
her off at the shop for the week and will be using Lullubelle ('70 IIa) for
the interim.  This must be her time to decompensate.

Tony

From Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com> Fri Sep 8 15:54:37 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 95 15:54:37 PDT
From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Rear Seat Installation
Hello, 

I am interested in adding a rear seat to my 1994 Def-90. I have heard that
some type of modification is needed for the 94 models to do this?
Is this true, or can I just order the rear seat from Rovers North and put
it in myself? (I definately want to avoid the dealership cost).

Leland Roys
Cupertino, Ca
1994 Def-90 (Red)
roys@cup.hp.com

From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Fri Sep 8 16:20:31 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 16:20:31 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: French lessons
>  Perhaps the
> original siege devices contained additional materials to provide an 
> olfactory suggestion of intestinal gasses.
> Walt Swain

  I take it you are not a "black powder" shooter.

Regards, Bill G.

From BwanaE@aol.com Fri Sep 8 19:20:01 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 1995 19:20:01 -0400
From: BwanaE@aol.com
Subject: Overdrive whining ? A tip ...
In the " for what it's worth department " ...

I was ready to turn back in my recently purchased Superwinch overdrive. It
performed as advertised, but had an unbelievable, painfully loud whine.
Earplugs were mandatory even during around-town short trips (previously my
gearbox was silky-smooth and quiet).

Anyway, while visiting British Rovers up in Lewiston on an unrelated matter,
I mentioned this problem to Dave (Tom Gannon's mechanic). He says "oh yeah,
that happens a lot,
go and back-off the right rear sheet metal screw holding down the
transmission tunnel cover". Did it ... BINGO ! whining is 100% gone. Turns
out that that screw is a wee bit long, and sometimes rubs directly on a brace
which is installed to carry the Overdrive's shifting lever. Normal
gearbox/overdrive noise then travels through the brace to the screw to the
tunnel cover which proceeds to act just like a reverberation chamber and
amplify the noises ad nauseum.

30 seconds with a grinder... problem solved. All this aside, the overdrive is
a delight... freeway driving at 60 mph, my LWB with the NADA 6-cyl managed 17
mpg... a first !

Eric.

From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Fri Sep 8 16:57 1995 
Date: Fri, 8 Sep 95 16:57 MST
From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II)
Subject: D110 doors
I saw a D110 for the first time last weekend, and a question
immidiately popped to mind.  Will those doors with the roll up windows
fit my Series III?

James Howard			jhoward@argus.lowell.edu
1972 SIII 88 "Ephraim"		Flagstaff, Arizona, USA

From LANDROVER@delphi.com Fri Sep 08 21:02:39 1995 
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 1995 21:02:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Subject: Re: Free range
I'll add to Sandy Grice's and Walter Swain's tales...

 
> >>>>> Alexander P. Grice writes:
> > My "free range" story comes from Tunisia back when I was in the Peace
/
 
> Don't know about Tunisia, but in Panama one did very well to avoid driving
> at night for this very reason.  The old/sick/lame horses and cattle were
> often put out on the Pan American Highway for a quick sale to the
/

I spent two years in Turkey in the mid 1970's.. Lot's of fun things to avoid
on the roads - horse carts, sheep, cattle, chickens and the occasional camel
or two. I had a Fiat 124 Spider back then and more than one time coming
through the Tarsus Mts I came face to face (actually closer to face to
knees) with a camel after rounding a blind curve. The problem with hitting
an animal over there is you have to pay for the animal PLUS whatever income
it might have provided the farmer in it's lifetime. The open roads were bad
enough - but you could see the same assortment of animals on the city
streets!

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 725-1859                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

From Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> Fri Sep 08 21:16:57 1995 
Date: Fri, 08 Sep 1995 21:16:57 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Portland All-British Field Meet 
In message <199509050659.BAA09291@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote:
  
> I'm sure we'll hear from Ben Smith who, last I saw him, had the "official"
> count at 45+ Landies -- with plate numbers and serial numbers recorded for
> most of them (Ben...we need to talk about this obsessive streak <g>).

	Umm, I only got a few Serial numbers cause I was mostly talking with
folks.   (Ok, explination here.  I got bored and wondered if the figures that
James Taylor published in LRO on individual production runs on Rovers 
corresonds to the yearly production totals that he got from Land Rover.  Up
to 1962, they do to within +/-1000 Rovers which ends up being (cumulatively)
about -2000 by the end of the SIIs. For the SIIA's he just published total
SIIA 88 Basic, SIIA Station wagon... for the entire period of 1962-71.  So
using a spread sheet I made a model that spread out production of vehicles 
over the years with the distributution similar the total vehicle prodution.
(And odd, low production items are taken into account)  Missing is only
the Complete Knock Downs (CKD).  Assuming a constant production (% of total)
makes things add up and give answers that agree with Taylor's "about 9000 CKD
per year comment"  (I'm going from memory here folks).  So to error correct,
if I had a bunch of SIIA Serial numbers with year (and hopefully month) of
manufacture, I could tweak the model to make it more accurate.  (So if anyone
wants to email me any SIIA serial numbers that they know to exist with
year/month of manufacture and type of Rover, I'd be grateful).

	BTW, Rover can't count.  Rover claims about 250,000 SIIIs.  Taylor 
comes up with 438,000 SIIIs.  If you make this jibe with totat production
figures, there are at least 100,000 CKDs that aren't counted, giving 540,000+
SIIIs, so Rover is off by at least a factor of two!  (Oh to have all of
Rover's production data to be scanned in...)

	Where was I?  Oh yeah, Portland:

SI 86":      1  (really on a SIIA frame w/ SIII running gear...)
SII 88":     1
SIIA 88":   17
SIIA/RR:     1 (SIIA panels on a Rangie chassie/engine)
SIII 88":    2
Lightweight: 1

107" PU:     2
SII 109":    3
SIIA 109":   9  (mix of Hardtop, Station Wagon, Softtop...) 
Stage I:     1
Dormobile:   5
LR Ambulance:1
            ===
             44 Series Rovers

(The newer stuff was hard to pin down because they kept on moving)
'94 & '95 NAS D90s: 6
'93 NAS D110:       2
Discoveries:        6
Range Rover Classic:3
Range Rover (Mk 2): 1
                   ===
                    18 newer Rovers

2 Rover Cars.

So 62 Land Rovers and 2 Rover Cars

> Amazingly enough, his was the only Series III in sight - an award winner for
> that...

	Lawrence of British Pacific also had a SIII 88.

> the best sight lines for no less than FIVE Doormobiles, including the John
> Hess cross-country model

	I found it quite amuzing that the Pacific Coast Rover Club folks
thought that it was big news for the Hess' to drive a Rover all the way
from Maine.  (Which is a feat that all Rover owners should do at least
once).  I drove to Maine and back in June/July in my SIII.  (wish I had the
comfort of a Dormobile--you try sleeping across the front seat of a Rover
when you're 6'4" and you will know what I mean) 

> When last seen,
> Ben was packing up his 12-string after six circuits and, he said, having to
> unholster the WD40 in mid-mud pit. 

	Yes, I admit it.  My Rover decided that all was going to well and
to have a snit in the middle of the water a few times.  The first of which
I made the sever tactical error of entering the pit in 3rd gear low at idle,
realized my error, but my 2nd gear synchro is shot, and in the confusion, it
died.  (The water was deep enough for the crank pulley to throw water into the
fan).  I'm going to get around to waterproofing her this week.  That fan
shroud doesn't do a lot of good on the workbench, eh?

Ben

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

From Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Sat Sep 9 18:49:53 1995 
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 1995 18:49:53 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: wwweb
I have a copy of Chris Haslam's 1988 Rangie electrics at
    http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/RR/Haslam/
if anyone finds it convenient to get them the web way.
I'll convert all the pcx files to gifs next week (1/8 the size).
Tom - Chris' email address is variously:
   Haslam@ieee.ca    haslam@concordia.ca   haslam@alcor.concordia.ca

btw. I have reorganized my list of rover world wide web links into
   http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Net/Net.shtml
so that they can be searched as part of the database:
   http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Contents/index.html
There is an auto-redirection from the old page to the new one,
but anyone with a link or book-mark might like to update it.

Also anyone with a L-R web page might like to check if I have their entry
and if it is correct.

 any reviews, please ???)

Lloyd
Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA
tel: 61 3 9905 5205      fax: 61 3 9905 5146      email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au

From Grahame.Harden@BRI.NRC.CA Sat Sep 9 11:20:08 1995 
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 95 11:20:08 -0400
From: Grahame.Harden@BRI.NRC.CA
Subject: ECOFLAW
> Does anyone know anything about the ECOFLOW device?
>>real slamming scientifically and on results

Scientifically, my humble opinion is that the only use for
an ECOFLOW would be place it in the gearbox to catch all the
swarf. No, I have not tried it, I doubt if I could drag up
the money even if I thought it would help. 
I'm heavily into large magnets and molecules, so when I read
about ECOFLOW "orientating and polarising fuel molecules" I
wonder where you get the liquid helium at a petrol station....

I'll lay off the quantum bits and pieces, and just say that I
simply do not see how incorporating permanent magnets in afuel
line achieves anything, BUT if anyone out there (ECOFLOW?) can
provide evidence, I'd love to hear it! A wonderful discussion
about popular magnetochemistry vis-a-vis LR's, I think not.

Back to reality!!!

Can anyone shed light on brake master cylinders...
The heap in question is one of the transitional type, an early
1980 SIII with SLS front brakes (pre-rationalised axle) and a 
servo. Standard diesel 2286, with a flap in the induction manifold
to keep the servo happy. 
I want to dump the flap in the dumpster, along with the servo. Since
I don't have leg muscles, what were the changes to the cylinder
dimensions when LR went servo? What I hope is that all LR did was
to simply step up the bore in the master a bit, and all I have
to do is get an 'earlier' master with a smaller bore to get
some braking back.

Anyone got a part number?

Cheers,

Grahame

From Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net> Sat Sep 9 13:23:59 1995 
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 1995 13:23:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net>
Subject: Landy Come Home
This cropped up in the Border Collie List today --- nice to know the dogs
made it but what about the Land Rover!

>In todays Nat. Press is a story about a 10 year old Border Collie who was
stolen 
>along with his 4 year old kennel mate from his owners Land Rover. The thieves 
>took the vehicle and dumped the dogs 60 miles away from their home.   The 
>younger dog was caught two days later and returned to his owner, but the older 
>dog set off alone.  His owner, a shepherd said he knew that the dog would make 
>it home as long as he did not get hit by traffic or shot for worrying
stock. He 
>alerted farmers and gamekeepers along the route.   The dog took 5 days to make 
>the journey back home and was spotted by villagers who recognised him a mile 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Sue James                             ***  Sooshine Yorkies  ***
>Leicestershire, England                  sue@b-jam.demon.co.uk  

                                                        Rick Grant

rgrant@synapse.net
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

From Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Sat Sep 9 15:57:38 1995 
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 1995 15:57:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: British Cars Digest #1826 Sat Sep 9 01:15:01 MDT 1995 (fwd)
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From jpappa01@interserv.com Sat Sep 9 18:45:26 1995 
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 95 18:45:26 PDT
From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Subject: Re: 	The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Vehicle is in Boston area.

Jim

From jpappa01@interserv.com Sat Sep 9 18:55:08 1995 
Date: Sat, 9 Sep 95 18:55:08 PDT
From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Subject: Re: 	Misc.
I dumped my entire message bank yesterday before I could return some emails to 
me!! Hope these people are reading digest:

- The *detuned* 3.9 fellow - It is the 4.0 L motor that is *detuned* from 190 
hp in the 4.0SE Rangey to 182 hp w/higher torque in the `96 Disco. There will 
be *NO* 3.9 V8 in *ANY* 1996 NAS Land Rover model. The 3.9 has been supplanted 
by the 4.0 primarily from an emissions-compliance standpoint.

- The *`95 Rom chipset* for 1995 MY NAS D90 adds basically some emissions 
compliance - the basic `95 setup is somewhat different as there is provision 
for diagnostic hookup for *TEST BOOK.* 

cheerz
Jim - now completely out of control...where do I sign?

`67 2A 88 5.0L Hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L Hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C Diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`From Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk> Sun Sep 10 13:06:49
 1995 
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 95 13:06:49
From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Rangie Steering
In article: <199509080755.CAA16743@butler.uk.stratus.com> owner-lro-digest@uk.stratus.com writes:
> the road, and for a brief time, she went "whap, whap, whap" up there while
> cornering.  All my mechanic could find wrong were the tie-rod ends, but now
> that they're replaced it's gotten much worse.  How's your experience been?

Probably radius rod bushes?   (They'll be shot after 90K)
Rubber replacements are OK, PU are stronger but give a harsher ride on-road.

Check the tracking and toe out. Make sure it's adjusted by a mechanic who 
knows that Landies toe *out*, not *in* !

Steering box ? Expensive, but they don't last for ever  8-(

I'd change the bushes, on the basis that they're probably starting to crack 
from age. 

While you have the tie rod off, check the pre-load on the steering swivels.
This rarely goes wrong, but it's easy to check. With the steering rods 
disconnected and a wheel off, check that the steering swivel takes around 3lbs 
to move it. Too loose means that the shims under the top of the swivel need 
adjusting, and this may cause steering looseness. Check the oil level in the 
hubs too. If the swivels are continually out of adjustment, check that the 
bearings aren't worn out, although that takes a bit of dismantling.

--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

'85 Rangie

From compuserve <72647.2641@compuserve.com> 10 95 Sep EDT
 1913 
Date: 10 Sep 95 13:54:11 EDT
From: compuserve <72647.2641@compuserve.com>
Subject: Is this a good idea?
O.K. everyone,

Would it be a good idea to find a good frame of a parts truck and have it hot
dipped?
How much would the galvinization cost?
Where could I get it done?
How long does it take to swap a chassis?(first time)

                                       Thanks,
                                       Will Cantrell

From Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca> Sun Sep 10 17:10:42 1995 
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 1995 17:10:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca>
Subject: Clarification of E-mail Address
My main email address is haslam@alcor.concordia.ca

Please use C.Haslam@ieee.ca
This is, I hope, immutable.  It is an alias.

haslam@concordia.ca was an error, due to my misunderstanding of Unix Pine.

...chris haslam

From Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca> Sun Sep 10 17:13:16 1995 
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 1995 17:13:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca>
Subject: Other Schematic Diagrams
I also have schematics for:

- 79 RR (2 diagrams), and
- 80 Rover SD1 (9 diagrams plus List by Wire Colour and Component Locations)

Is there any interest?

...chris haslam

From TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Mon Sep 11 07:14:49 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 07:14:49 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: French lessons
On Fri, 8 Sep 1995, Walter C. Swain wrote:

> This is true.  However, the etymology of 'petard' is traced back through
> the French and Latin in a long winded series of terms that all relate to
> the expulsion of intestinal gasses. 

Does this mean that the Frenchman taunting King Arthur in Monty Python 
and the Holy Grail should have said:

"I petard in your general direction"   ?

Cheers

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

From David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Sun Sep 10 18:59:40 1995 
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 1995 18:59:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: more techy questions
OK you technical people. What can you tell me about a Solex carb model 
LF59 also marked B40 PA 10-5.  Dave VE4PN

From haystack@netspace.net.au (Doug McPherson) Mon Sep 11 10:27:22 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 10:27:22 +1000
From: haystack@netspace.net.au (Doug McPherson)
Subject: LR 110 Pre-purchase questions
Hi all.

I've been lurking on this list for a month or two now, and I'd like to pose
a question or two to the collective wisdom. This will be more directed at
the UK, Oz and other non North American areas, 'cos you guys never got the
machine I want !

I'm interested in buying a LandRover 110, about '85 vintage. Now being in
Oz, we basically have a choice between the 3.5 V8 and the (factory
installed) Isuzu 3.9 Diesel. I'm unsure of which to get. 

Questions:

1) There's a 4 speed (LT-77 ?) and 5 speed (LT-95 ?) box available. Is their
anything to pick between these, besides the obvious extra cog ? ie is the
4/5 speed a stronger box, easier to fix etc. Is it easy to retrofit a 5 sp
inplace of a 4 sp at some future date ? (even on an Isuzu diesel ?) Are
these the same as RR boxes ?

2) What are the general weak spots on a Landy of this type ? What noises to
listen for etc. Remember that this is warm, sunny (!) Australia, so its not
too likely to have a really shot chassis, but you never know !

I have a friend who will come and look at the machines with me. He has a lot
of experience with an SIIa that his family's had for 25 years, and that he's
worked on for about 15. But that's got totally different suspension, engine
etc. !

3) The Isuzu diesel. I think its a 4BD1.Naturally aspirated, 3.9litre. As
found in Isuzu NPR trucks, probably in other Isuzu or GM products. Anyone
have any long term experience with this unit, either in a Landy or maybe a
truck ? Any points to look at specifically.

4) Aimed specifically at Oz readers: what's a good price to pay for a 110 ?
Most are advertised at the early $20k mark. Seems significantly high. You
can usually get a similar age RR for less ! Any pointers will be well received.

5) Any good books etc. on buying a 110 ?

This will be my first Landy, and in many ways hopefully my last ! That's why
I want a 110, at the limit of my budget, rather than a SII or SIII. I reckon
I could live with a 110 for 20 years.

Thanks in advance for any info. If there's a fair level fo stuff, I may
assemble it and send it off
as a "buyer's guide" to the Australian web site, if Lloyd Allison is keen.
Please indicate in any replies whether you would object to this.

Doug McPherson.

From Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au> Mon Sep 11 10:11:02 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 10:11:02 +0930
From: Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au>
Subject: For Sale - Australia
Hi everyone

I don't know if many of you will be interested in this but you don't have to
read it if you don't want to!

We have for sale

.  a rear diff off a Series IIA, good working order with a new short axle.
There's nothing wrong with it we replaced it with a Series III Salisbury
Diff. $250 AUS

.  Two gearboxes in parts, including transfer case.  Again Series II
gearboxes. $450 AUS the lot.

.  A Series IIA Ex-Army Landrover, 1965 (RNU 605).  Long Wheel Base, Soft
Top (110 Army Cam), False Floor, Sound Proofing, Salisbury Rear Diff,
Steering recently rebuilt (about a month ago), Brakes recently done (about 9
months ago), new paint job, registered until around September, fairly new
tyres, comes complete with AM CB and UHF CB setup (antennas, coaxial cable,
etc but not the CB Units themselves).  $5,500 AUS ono.

There is nothing wrong with the vehicle, we really don't want to sell it but
it's all for a good cause.  We've just bought a house and need the money
rather than the car at the moment.  However a County 110 is on the cards in
the future.  Does anyone have one for sale?

If anyone is interested please drop me a message on
        tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
For anyone living in Australia, we live in Panorama in South Australia
(about 20 minutes out of Adelaide).

No bananas or slabs will be accepted as official currency from ANY country.
I wouldn't like to try and explain that to our Real Estate Agent!!!!!

Regards

Tiffany Downing

********************************************
Co-ordinator, International Student Programs
TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA
Phone:   (61 8) 226 3202
Fax:     (61 8) 226 3655
E-Mail:  tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
********************************************

From Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM> Sun Sep 10 22:12:30 1995 
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 1995 22:12:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Heart transplant A-OK
All,
    Well, it was a successful week.

    My 88 made the trip from VA to Rovers North in VT.  It blew massive
    amounts of coolant out a couple of times (I say in addition to
    everything else, there was a small head gasket leak; Charlie Haigh
    says it was probably as simple as not having the radiator shroud in
    place!!)  The transmission layshaft was truly bouncing around by the
    time I got there (and the 2mm of silver crud in the drain plug bears
    out this assessment of the noises!)

    Tuesday I set about stripping out the seatbox, disconnecting
    everything, etc. while Dale continued readying the new engine and
    transmission.  He pulled the old transmission out, I got the old
    engine out.  Large amounts of engine oil in the bellhousing- guess
    that rear seal was toast!  I had to go to a business meeting in NJ
    (via plane)...by the time I next saw my vehicle Friday morning it
    had a new engine and transmission in it!  I put a bunch of miles on
    it to break it in, then brought it back for readjustment, to get the
    floors all put back in properly, etc.  Then I spent the rest of the
    day putting even more miles on it.  The point was to get it run in
    and drain off the breakin oil *before* driving the 800+ miles back
    to VA.

    Here's my comment on the Turner engine: take out a loan, sell the
    children, take up prostitution, whatever it takes, BUY ONE.  This is
    one nice hunk of cast iron.  I haven't pushed it hard yet, and it's
    still got power in places along the power curve I never did before.
    This thing would pass the glass-of-water-on-valve-cover test without
    creating so much as a ripple on the surface.  And it's so dang
    *clean* too!  (Now that I won't be oiling my frame "naturally"",
    I'll have to find some other way to preserve it...)

    I also got the "full synchro Series IIA" transmission- nice trick! 
    I keep double-clutching when going down into second, need to break
    myself of that habit now...  I also cashed in my restoration
    discount program to help pay for the installation labor and to
    buy....an overdrive!  That is highly recommended also.  Between the
    new engine and the overdrive, I was getting 22MPG on the drive
    home...certainly never thought I'd see a mileage figure that started
    with a 2 for this car!

    After helping Charlie get his military diesel pickup back together
    after its frame-off paint job (another whole story, best saved for
    another mail...) I got the "pleasure" of driving behind it a lot on
    the drive back to VA, as he was headed down here for the BRLRC
    get-together this coming weekend in Luray.  The diesels sure have a
    certain (hack, koff...) unique sensory signature....

    To the guy in the green D90 that I passed just West of the I88/I90
    interchange: sorry, I was watching in my mirror to make sure I
    wasn't losing Charlie, and when I looked up and saw you it was too
    late to wave back.  How embarrassing!

    I can't say enough good things about the crew at RN.  I never let
    *anyone* at home work on my Rover, since they would just never be
    able to take the care with it that I do.  Dale and Randy at RN
    treated it *better* than I would have!  And the technical expertise
    and business approach of RN that back them up just make it all the
    better.  And it's always an experience visiting there, just to see
    what the employees are driving these days, and what vehicles are
    theree to be worked on.  I spent a lot of time going over the Camel
    Trophy '95 Discovery parked out in the lot....  It was absolutely
    beat to hell...but turns out that happened on the drive up (from
    Belize?), in Mexico, when it was run off the road by a bus.  The
    running gear looked to be in flawless shape (only 11K on the
    odometer!), and the extras were pretty slick: massive skid plates,
    roof rack full of jerry cans, roll cage, rear full of spare parts,
    etc.

    Well, off to read the 300+ mail messages waiting for me...sigh....
    see some of you in Luray this weekend?

    Duncan

From CpaulP@aol.com Mon Sep 11 02:43:46 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 02:43:46 -0400
From: CpaulP@aol.com
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
My 1995 Discovery 5 Speed has been making an intermittent "growling"  noise.
 It is very dificult to pin down exactly when or why this happens.  It only
does this for a short time and then the engine noise returns to its normal
sound.  It seems to be most noticeable in gears 1 & 2.  Has anyone else
experience this and can you advise what it is.  As usual, can't get it to do
this anywhere near the dealer !!!!!  Thanks..

From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Mon Sep 11 16:16:17 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 16:16:17 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: RR stuff
Tony writes:
> If I hit a bump during a turn, the steering wheel will go "wobble, wobble,
> wobble" for a second or two.
> also suggested that they look for play in the top pin of the swivel pin
> housing.  Any experience with this?  When Annabelle's in the shop I'm going
> to have them pull one front wheel bearing and CV for inspection too.

Oh how embarassing:-(  I was supposed to send you info on swivel pin preload
about a month ago wasnt I. Oops

I'd still go for pre-load as the most likely cause of the bump wobble, unless
the wheel bearings are really bad..

Do you have the information needed to adjust them or should I try to find it
still??? 

You could always do what I do.  Pull a couple of shims out of the top and see
what happens.  (If you do i never heard of you, Land rovers or the Internet
:-) 

Yours apologetically 

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

From Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Mon Sep 11 00:13:31 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 00:13:31 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: British Car Meet
>  Lunch at Una-Mas Mexican Restaurant, south-easterly side of the Stanford

Nah, I'm bringing hotdogs/sausages and the like.  Maybe I should bring some 
tortilla chips if Jimmy/Jeremy/Gerry/Jory/John/Jiminy/Jesse/Jack/Joe/Gymboree 
is bringing salsa?

>  --everyone to wear an obnoxious Rover or
>  British hat, Aussie fedoras recommended with Kiwi feathers, or full Rover
>  battle dress (overalls?).  From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 11 95 Sep EDT
 1903 
Date: 11 Sep 95 03:47:43 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Misc.(Disco/Tossed tranny/RR noises)
Re: Lurker has Disco questions

That should just about do, provided you have the standard rims/tires on it.
Don't forget any antenna.

> Do those silly roof rails remove easily without leaving gaing holes in
> the roof ?

Those rails *are* silly, and totally useless. They're purely decorative,
if you put any kind of weight on them, the roof will buckle. They remove
easily, it's getting the headlining out and back in again that is going
to make you forget your good upbringing. The remaining holes are fairly
small and can be closed with little crome-plated circular plugs, available
at any automotive nik-nak shop.

-------------------------------------------------

Re: 'Tossed' tranny?

> I realize I have to replace both units (trans. & transfer), but what I'm

Why ?  Except in very rare cases, the t-case is unaffected if a shaft in
the main gearbox breaks, the exception being when the shaft breaks not
*inside* the gearbox, but at the rear end that is already inside the
t-case, carrying the transfer gear (or going into the overdrive).

---------------------------------------------------

Re: RR noises (was: Arcane Abbreviations)

>> The RR has always had a problematic front end.  She suffers from wandering on
>> the road, and for a brief time, she went "whap, whap, whap" up there while

>Have you tried adjusting the slack in the steering box, and replacing the
>Panhard Rod bushings and steering damper (for the latter use the genuine

Adjust the steering box - yes. Always a good thing to do now and then;
it's done via the flat locknut right on top in the middle of the box, the
actual adjustment is done with an allen key that fits the little rod secured
by the nut. See if you can get a new replacement nut. This nut is a
special sort of nyloc nut with a particularly large and soft plastic insert
that protudes out from the bottom of the nut a bit and is also supposed to
seal off the top of the steering box. The plastic flattens and hardens after
a while, and usually doesn't seal properly anymore after having been
loosened for steering adjustment - the no.1 cause for wet steering boxes.

Bushings? Not likely to be the cause - they would account for an occasional
loud *clunk* or *clank*, not whap-whap. I fear something more serious, like
a CV joint on the way to destruction, possibly accompanied or caused by
an excessively loose swivel pin and lack of oil in the swivel pin housing.
I'd start saving up money...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Mon Sep 11 00:53:06 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 00:53:06 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: For Sale - Australia
>.  A Series IIA Ex-Army Landrover, 1965 (RNU 605).  Long Wheel Base, Soft
>Top (110 Army Cam), False Floor, Sound Proofing, Salisbury Rear Diff,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>tyres, comes complete with AM CB and UHF CB setup (antennas, coaxial cable,
>etc but not the CB Units themselves).  $5,500 AUS ono.

 Sounds like a nice truck, Tiffany.  Very similar to the 1/35" model kit
 I have here by Testors/Italeri #859 (drool!).  Is this a two door vehicle
 with a rear tail gate?  As a data point, do you drive on the right side of
 the road, or the wrong side? :)  What is a soft top "(110 Army Cam)", Army
 camouflage top from a 110" WB?  Being Ex-Army, is this the Australian Army,
 or British/NATO?  And, and having a new paint Job, is it repainted to Army
 paint/camouflage colors or something else?

>There is nothing wrong with the vehicle, we really don't want to sell it.

 Again, as a data point, in general do Australian vehicles suffer the same as
 English or US East Coast vehicles, being overcome with rust and disintegrating
 frames, bulkheads, etc.  What is the primary problem to look for in Australian
 Land-Rovers (or vehicles in general)?

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

From Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Mon Sep 11 09:29:04 1995 
Date:          Mon, 11 Sep 1995 09:29:04 +0000
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject:       Re: ECOFLOW
On  8 Sep 95, Mike Rooth wrote:

[With reference to the 40 quid EcoFlow system]
> Dont know how it works,but even 20% isnt much when you're
> only getting between,say,15-20mpg in the first place.Take
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Personally,I reckon a Kenlowe electric fan is a better
> fuel saver.YMMV,of course.
How does the fan save money?

The only thing that is removed from the engine are the blades from the 
belt-drive fan. The only effect this will have (as far as I see) is to 
allow the engine to heat up quicker - there is no reduction in friction as 
the waterpump still has to be turned...

Am I missing something?

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Mon Sep 11 19:35:40 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 19:35:40 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: LR 110 Pre-purchase questions
Doug asks:
> I'm interested in buying a LandRover 110, about '85 vintage. Now being in
> Oz, we basically have a choice between the 3.5 V8 and the (factory
> installed) Isuzu 3.9 Diesel. I'm unsure of which to get. 

Horses for courses, see below. 

Personally 3.9D, LT95, Slam handles + air.  ( Ie my stage one but with the
diesel, coils and A/C)

> Questions:
> 1) Gear boxes
> installed) Isuzu 3.9 Diesel. I'm unsure of which to get. 
The LT95 is the four speed and is generally regarded as a better/stronger box
than the 5 speeds, I've never owned a 5sp, but they are supposedly more
refined (less truck like), though that wouldnt be hard, the LT95 is not
subtle, but personally I like the solid feel of it.
The boxes are basically Rangie ones with slightly differernt high range
transfer gears to take into account the extra weight and bigger tyres.

> 2) What are the general weak spots on a Landy of this type ?
> 1) Gear boxes

Centre diff, centre diff, chassis rust (esp rear x-member as lots were used
as boat pullers), did I mention The centre diff......

Actually the centre diff is not so much weak as easily abused and expensive
to fix.  

> What noises to listen for etc.

The drive line will probably sound a bit "clunky", its very subjective but if
there is *lots* beware.  Get out on a nice hard flat surface and do a few
tight circles and figure 8's and listen carefully for anything that sounds
like gear snatch.  If it clunks and lurches run a mile....  If it doesnt
there may still be problems but the only way you will find out is to strip
the thing down.   The centre diff on my stage one was hosed but didnt show up
until I disturbed it whilst fixing the speedo drive :-(  (mind you I patched
it up 7 years ago and am just now going back to put a heap more shims in, and
the stage 1 diff is not as good as the 110's)

Try to find somewhere where you can park with the nose facing downhill, stiop
for a few minutes and look to see if there is any oil dripping from the
bell-housing (come to that make sure the wading plug is not fitted to the
drain hole.)  I've seen lots of LT95;s do this, probably just a front
seal, but may be related to worn input shaft bearings (like mine :-(
Mines done it for years as have a couple of other LT95's i know but you would
be better off with one that doesn't

> too likely to have a really shot chassis, but you never know 
See above.  Try using the factory jack in the jacking holes, they seem to be
a "soft spot" rust wise.

> I have a friend who will come and look at the machines with me. He has a lot
> of experience with an SIIa 

At least he has a "feel" for Landys that will help...
> 3) The Isuzu diesel. I think its a 4BD1.Naturally aspirated, 3.9litre. As
> found in Isuzu NPR trucks, probably in other Isuzu or GM products. Anyone
> have any long term experience with this unit, either in a Landy or maybe a
> truck ? Any points to look at specifically.

No experience, only heard good things reliability/longevity  wise, have heard
that some electrical parts  ( eg starter) are outrageously priced.... 
 
> 4) Aimed specifically at Oz readers: what's a good price to pay for a 110 ?
> Most are advertised at the early $20k mark. Seems significantly high.

A friend just turned down $26500 for his '85 3.9 4 spd.  paid ~$22K about 6
mth ago, has had the g/box done since.

Another friend recently paid ~$14K for an 85 V8 4sp., this vehicle has some
rear x-member rust a leaky g/box front seal (bad leak !) has had radiator
problems, (cracked tanks is common, another thing I have to fix on the stage
1 soon :-)

With the Diesels its definitely a sellers market, they dont seem to hang
around for long.  I'm not really looking as I cant afford one :-(  

> I could live with a 110 for 20 years.

You and lots of others ...

As far as power plant selection goes its a very personal thing, and a lot
depends an the sort of driving you expect to do.
The diesel is a Truck motor, *lots* of *low* down torque, but not much top
end.  As an example there is a section of road here-abouts with a long hill.
Starting with a bottom speed of 110 Km, and using what ever throttle
necessary (ie Wide open or what ever) the 3.9 is doing about 85 at the top a
Tdi is still 110 and a 3.5 stage 1 with 400+K's is doing about 105.  The
diesel doesnt have the horse power up top, so is not as adept at sand work as
a V8, but by virtue of its bottom end is just great crawling up and down
steep rocky trails.
The diesel is better in deep water crossings, but less forgiving if you make
a mistake.  Drown a diesel and its dead donk time, sink a V8 and chances are
that you drive home, not clear cut but the the odds are better.
The diesel is noisey and smelly and vibrates like a duck in season, the V8
is relatively refined. 

But the diesel will routinely return mid to high 20's Mpg and may even crack
the 30's on some occasions,
The petrols well most people talk 16-18, some say 20  others think
15 would be nice.. 

Uuum as usual I've rambled on..

cheers best of luck

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

From Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Mon Sep 11 20:47:30 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 20:47:30 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Isuzu 4BD1
I have no first hand experience of the Isuzu, but I have heard remarks like
   "it's only run in after 100K km"
I know of one put into a Range Rover by a respected mechanic/engineer
so they can't be bad.  A club member plans to put one in his 101.

Also, I gather that some recommend the 4spd LT95 over the 5 spd (but
which one?) for big-engine transplants, so maybe it has a little more
strength?

Lloyd

From Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Mon Sep 11 11:50:01 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 11:50:01 BST
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: ECOFLOW
> On  8 Sep 95, Mike Rooth wrote:
[snip]
> > Personally,I reckon a Kenlowe electric fan is a better
> > fuel saver.YMMV,of course.

> How does the fan save money?

Don't the Kenlowe fans have a switch which only turns them on when 
they are needed rather than having the thing thrashing all the time?

This saves fuel because the engine is not putting energy into
unnecessarily turning the fan at high road speeds - not sure about
LR fans, but on some specs I've seen you can use up to 3HP to
drive the fan round (excluding water pump).

If an electric fan was on all the time, I think it would be less
efficient then its mechanical counterpart because you have 
mechanical-> electrical and electrical-> mechanical losses 
rather than just belt losses in the standard system.
That's if they move the same amount of air, and the fan is the 
same...  just an alternative power source.
It can't have been hard for Kenlowe to improve on the
standard LR fan shape, efficiency-wise!
Any other theories (or - gasp - hard evidence)?!

> The only thing that is removed from the engine are the blades from the 
 belt-drive fan. The only effect this will have (as far as I see) is to 
> allow the engine to heat up quicker - there is no reduction in friction as 
 the waterpump still has to be turned...
> Am I missing something?
> > fuel saver.YMMV,of course.

I reckon it might be a more efficient blade shape coupled with the fans
only coming on when required...

Whilst on the fan thing, does anyone have experience of the eight
blade fans, as fitted to lightweights and other Army machines?
I'm interested whether or not they are better at cooling the radiator.
We have been donated one of these, c/w pulley etc. and it will fit
fine on our engines.  It's just a pain in the arse to put it on 
on the offchance that it might help in really high ambient 
temperatures.  Can't really test it in the UK...
 
The fans are about 1" less in diameter overall and the blades have a 
similar pitch.  I can't see how they are dramatically better than the
existing 4 blade unit with a shroud.

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

From Dr Peter Ramsay <RAMSAYP@geology.und.ac.za> Mon Sep 11 13:30:23 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 13:30:23 +0200 (SAST)
From: Dr Peter Ramsay <RAMSAYP@geology.und.ac.za>
Subject: 110 Purchase
Doug wrote that he was interested in purchasing a 110.  I have a 1984 
110 V8 named "Brick with an Aircraft Engine" and can enlighten you on 
our South African experience of the 110.

On the engine side, if petrol consumption is not a high priorty, I 
would go for the 3.5l V8.  This engine is extremely strong, 
runs smoothly and sounds great.  My V8 has 110,000km on the clock and 
runs sweetly.  You can expect to get a consumption of 20litres per 
100 km in an urban cycle and about 16l/100km on the open road at 100-
110 km/hr.  Offroad comsumption rarely exceeds 20l/100km even if the 
vehicle is worked hard.

On the gearbox side, the five-speed boxes have not been too reliable 
and the 4-speed ones seem to be a better propersition.  Note the 
these 110 gearboxes use 20W50 engine oil in the gearbox and EP 90 in 
the transfer box (I use 85W140 in my transfer case & diffs as I run 
the vehicle in very hot climates and I think this oil provides better 
lubrication).

All South African assembled 110's have galvanished chassis - so rust 
is not a problem.

The 110's are exceptionally good and rugged vehicles.  They are 
comfortable offroad and onroad and fitting the Australian Old Man Emu 
shocks, springs and poly-bushes improves the comfort and handling 
even more.

I hope this information helps.

Peter   

**********************************************************************
Dr Peter J Ramsay
Marine Geoscience Unit
P O Box 18091
Dalbridge, 4014
Durban
South Africa
Tel (+2731) 811260
Fax (+2731) 2602280
**********************************************************************

From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Mon Sep 11 07:28:09 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 07:28:09 EST
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Subject: British Car Show
Just got this in the mail and thought some might be 
interested --

Sunday October 22 10AM-5PM: 20-25 British cars from all over 
New England, representing the best in their respective 
classes, will be displayed in the Military Exhibit Hangar 
(rain or shine) of the New England Air Museum, Bradley 
International Airport, Windsor Locks CT.

Sounds like the display vehicles are already selected, but 
why not fill up the parking lot with L-Rs?  

If anyone wants detailed directions, email me directly.

Hank

From Dr Peter Ramsay <RAMSAYP@geology.und.ac.za> Mon Sep 11 13:26:57 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 13:26:57 +0200 (SAST)
From: Dr Peter Ramsay <RAMSAYP@geology.und.ac.za>
Subject: 110 Purchase
Doug wrote that he was interested in purchasing a 110.  I have a 1984 
110 V8 named "Brick with an Aircraft Engine" and can enlighten you on 
our South African experience of the 110.

On the engine side, if petrol consumption is not a high priorty, I 
would go for the 3.5l V8.  This engine is extremely strong, 
runs smoothly and sounds great.  My V8 has 110,000km on the clock and 
runs sweetly.  You can expect to get a consumption of 20litres per 
100 km in an urban cycle and about 16l/100km on the open road at 100-
110 km/hr.  Offroad comsumption rarely exceeds 20l/100km even if the 
vehicle is worked hard.

On the gearbox side, the five-speed boxes have not been too reliable 
and the 4-speed ones seem to be a better propersition.  Note the 
these 110 gearboxes use 20W50 engine oil in the gearbox and EP 90 in 
the transfer box (I use 85W140 in my transfer case & diffs as I run 
the vehicle in very hot climates and I think this oil provides better 
lubrication).

All South African assembled 110's have galvanished chassis - so rust 
is not a problem.

The 110's are exceptionally good and rugged vehicles.  They are 
comfortable offroad and onroad and fitting the Australian Old Man Emu 
shocks, springs and poly-bushes improves the comfort and handling 
even more.

I hope this information helps.

Peter   

**********************************************************************
Dr Peter J Ramsay
Marine Geoscience Unit
P O Box 18091
Dalbridge, 4014
Durban
South Africa
Tel (+2731) 811260
Fax (+2731) 2602280
**********************************************************************

From "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Mon Sep 11 08:02:35 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 08:02:35 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Wheel Wobble
          Tony-
           Greetings. I had the exact same problem, I think
          on a larger scale perhaps. I'd hit a bump and the
          steering wheel would nearly fly off the end of the
          column,l and my arms felt like they were trying to
          hold on to a bucking bronco (never actually done
          that but I guess that's what it would feel like!).
          I called around and heard just about everything.
          The end result is that I have learned the
          following. 1. A steering damper should be fitted
          when everything else is already done. It is as you
          said like a band aid on a broken leg. 2.
          Tightening the steering box probably won't help
          either. 3. Swivel pins may be too loose, but not
          loose enough to feel by shaking the tire. If
          the bearings/pins are slightly worn, the pre-load
          on the swivel mechanism may be too low.( Should be
          about 12-16lbs.) My swivel balls were hosed so i
          changed them.  Took her in for a wheel
          alignment/balancing, and the guy there said the
          wobble was probavly caused by incorrect balancing.
          Haven't had the problem since, I've been
          deliberately going over lots of bumps to try and
          make it return (why?) So far it hasn't.
          I initially tried just doing the steering box, and
          the problem recurred within a couple of days.
          Robert Davis says that the box should be tightened
          by jacking up the front wheels, then tightening
          until you feel resistance in the steering wheel.
          Then back off. Don't know what kind of vehicle you
          have, so I hope this helps. Gotta run, thanks for
          letting me babble.
          Cheers.
          David Bobeck
          Wash DC
          dbobeck@ushmm.org
          72 SERIII 88"  "Miss Lucky"

From BwanaE@aol.com Mon Sep 11 08:15:11 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 08:15:11 -0400
From: BwanaE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Overdrive whining ? A tip ...
Jory,

The overdrive whine was always present, however it was definitely louder in
the engaged position (more internal gears moving about ?).

Anyway, now that I've modified the offending screw, it's so quiet, that the
engaged/disengaged noise level is the same. 

I'm seriously considering a radio now... what a concept !

Eric

From Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Mon Sep 11 08:54:00 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 08:54:00 DST
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Superwinch OD
The following was provided by Glen Massie of Toronto Area Rover Club. The 
answers came from Tony Sanderson of Superwinch UK.

Q; Can you leave your vehicle in overdrive for everyday use on the highway?
A; Stop and go driving in high range two wheel drive should not harm the 
overdrive unit.  We have found, in the U.K., that to obtain the greatest 
fuel savings it is best to drive "by ear'. When the engine sounds as if it 
is labouring, change down or out of OD. If the OD is left in when pulling 
away with a loaded vehicle the gearing may be too high. This will waste 
fuel.

Q: Can the OD be used in any range?
A; The OD can be used in any gear range high or low. However if the vehicle 
is driven aggressively off road, it would be advisable to keep the OD 
disengaged.

Q: Can you use the OD as a split shifter? eg If 3rd high is too low but 4th 
is too high use 3rd OD.
A: It is normal to use the OD as a split shifter, in fact this is one of the 
main benefits of the OD, to "split" the gearbox ratios (these are quite 
wide).

Q: What about spares and repairs on the road?
A: If you are contemplating long haul trips in remote areas you would be 
well advised to keep (In your vehicle) the parts removed when you fitted the 
overdrive. If any problems arise with the OD it would be a simple matter to 
convert the vehicle back to non OD if you have these parts with you. (Don't 
forget also the special wrench/modified socket for the mainshaft nut)

Trevor Easton TARC

From Keith Elliott <kelliott@intranet.on.ca> Mon Sep 11 08:56:15 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 08:56:15 -0400
From: Keith Elliott <kelliott@intranet.on.ca>
Subject: Series II Brakes
Hi everyone...

   I've got a question for all you Land Rover gurus... I had no brakes at
all on my 61 SII SWB, blead all the lines and had great pedal and stopping
power. Since then I have moved it around the property (no great distance)
and noticed that the break pedal was slowly getting closer to the floor. Now
the pedal is back to the floor and no brakes. I have looked everywhere for a
leak but there is none and the master resivoir (SP!) hasn't dropped any.
Gotta be air getting in somewhere but where!!! Thanks in advance for any help.

Keith
'61 Series II SWB "The unstoppable beast!"

From Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net> Mon Sep 11 09:21:18 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 09:21:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net>
Subject: Border Collies & LR revisited
Here once again, but this time untruncated, is the note that was in the
Border Collie List.  I wonder if the Land Rover has made its own way home yet?

In todays Nat. Press is a story about a 10 year old Border Collie who was
stolen 
along with his 4 year old kennel mate from his owners Land Rover. The thieves 
took the vehicle and dumped the dogs 60 miles away from their home.   The 
younger dog was caught two days later and returned to his owner, but the older 
dog set off alone.  His owner, a shepherd said he knew that the dog would make 
it home as long as he did not get hit by traffic or shot for worrying stock. He 
alerted farmers and gamekeepers along the route.   The dog took 5 days to make 
the journey back home and was spotted by villagers who recognised him a mile 
from his home. 

 
Sue James                             ***  Sooshine Yorkies  ***
Leicestershire, England                  sue@b-jam.demon.co.uk  

                                

                                                        Rick Grant

rgrant@synapse.net
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

From "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Mon Sep 11 09:52:50 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 09:52:50 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Solex Carb
          David-
           There is a very informative article in this
          months LRO International, dealing with the
          rebuilding and common things that can go wrong
          with this carb. Its apparently difficult to
          rebuild since parts are no longer made, but you
          can get a rebuilt one. Also they tell you how to
          tune it.
           Not sure what month this is but it has a picture
          of an airborne yellow LR on the cover.
          Regards,
          David Bobeck
          Wash DC
          dbobeck@ushmm.org
          72 SerIII 88" "Miss Lucky"

From lenagham@bachman.com Mon Sep 11 10:00:17 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 10:00:17 EST
From: lenagham@bachman.com
Subject: Re: Range Rover Steering
     There have been a number of postings recently about Range Rover 
     steering problems. These seem to fall into two categories: 
     
     1) Wandering/Vagueness - which may be caused by worn ball joints and 
     steering backlash adjustment.
     
     2) Steering wheel shake/vibration - which is typically down to the 
     steering damper.
     
     There was an article in the August edition of Land Rover World about 
     "Ultimate 80" and in there was the following:
     
     "The last and most recent problem was a vicious steering wheel shake, 
     the same type that will be familiar to a lot of owners of older Range 
     Rovers. It usually occurs at any speed over 40mph and is usually set 
     off by hitting a pot hole, although in severe cases just catching 
     something as small as  a cat's eye can set it off. I've known owners 
     react to this by changing the steering damper and, when this has been 
     seen to have no effect whatsoever, going on to fit replacement front 
     springs, shocks and a number of suspension bushes. Traditionally this 
     too produces little or no improvement, and neither does having the 
     wheels balanced.
     
     The cure is normally, though not always, to reset the preload on the 
     swivel bearings. That's what I checked first, and sure enough they 
     needed adjusting. Not only is this relatively easy to do, it also 
     doesn't cost anything in terms of new parts, assuming of course the 
     bearings don't need replacing, as you're actually removing shims from 
     under the top pin rather than having to nail new bits to it."
     
     So, this is one more thing to add to the list of possible causes. Does 
     anyone know how easy it is to set the preload?
     
     Mike
     87 RR

From "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Mon Sep 11 10:17:35 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 10:17:35 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Electrical Work
          Greetings all.
          This weekend as I was doing some
          final work on the Rover, to get it ready for its
          DMV inspection, all of the rear left lights went
          on strike. They had been working fine ever since I
          hit that bump on Route 81. Well, I discovered that
          the wiring harness in the rear crossmember was
          rather awful underneath all that pretty electrical
          tape. Also some of the bulbs had seperated from
          their bases.  So it was off to Trak Auto for the
          bulbs. As I pulled into the parking lot I noticed
          that the speedometer said I wasn't moving. I
          looked out the window to make sure I was moving.
          Test results showed that I was indeed moving. I
          knew what the problem was before I even got out.
          If anybody's wondering, the speedometer cable
          wrapping is NOT designed to withstand the heat of
          prolonged contact with the exhaust pipe (no
          surprise there).  Well back to the story. Bulbs in
          hand, I went to work on the wiring right there in
          the parking lot.  Snip here, splice there, snip
          splice snip splice bump head on frame, etc... As I
          was wrapping up, a young lady approached me and
          asked if I could check out the headlights on her
          Ford station wagon. Lots of fiddling around with
          the connections, hooked 'em right up to the
          battery and they came on.  Checked the power at
          the plug, none.  Scraped some of the road gunk off
          the plug and got power.  Plugged it in again and
          they came on. I looked to see if they were LUCAS.
          I tried to refuse but she ended giving me 20
          bucks!  That should cover most of the speedo
          cable. Anyway I got all my lights working 'cept
          for the reverse one, works great off the battery
          but mysteriously dies when I put it back in place.
          Ah, the joy.

          By the way there's a '71 Series IIa 88 in the
          Sunday Washington Post, restored, runs great "the
          classic 4x4" $7500. Will post the phone number
          tomorrow.
          Cheers.
          David Bobeck
          Wash DC
          72 Series III 88 "Top speed 0 mph"
          dbobeck@ushmm.org

From "Hadley, William H." <whadley@INETGATE.ushmm.org> Mon Sep 11 10:39:08 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 10:39:08 EST
From: "Hadley, William H." <whadley@INETGATE.ushmm.org>
Subject: silly sounds
          Ok here are a few more random questions:

          The rubber on the inside of the top to my
          Clutch/Brake reservoir is swollen(IIa) and the
          fluid inside is Murky. The can is also soaked in
          brake fluid, are these "normal" attributes of a
          '62 Rover?

          The funny sound comes from the transmission
          direction, or clutch. It sounds like a wizzing
          noise and usually happens when I push in the
          clutch. I also usually have to go into third to
          get to second without "grinding." The pedal does
          not always have pressure so I have assumed
          "sticking" throw out bearing but don't know if it
          is a faulty master cylinder.

          How about this one; gear oil leaking from the
          Flywheel and engine oil leaking from the cam pully
          area.

          I think that is probably enough...

          Thanks in advance

          Will Hadley
          Exhibition Department United States
          Holocaust Memorial Museum Washington, DC
          whadley@ushmm

          '62 88IIa SW "Nessie" (the lil' monsta that's
          rarely seen)

From Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Mon Sep 11 10:42:40 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 10:42:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Is this a good idea?
On 10 Sep 1995, compuserve wrote:

> Would it be a good idea to find a good frame of a parts truck and have 
> it hot dipped?

	Maybe, or get a new frame from the UK that is already galvanized 
	(which could be a better option...)  Is the current frame that
	far gone?  If the frame is good on the parts vehicle, what is wrong
	with the rest?  Mix & mate I guess...

> How much would the galvinization cost?

	Ask...  Varies by location.  You have to get the frame to & fro
	too...

> Where could I get it done?

	Yellow pages.  If you were in Ottawa, the closest choices are in
	Montreal and Toronto.

> How long does it take to swap a chassis?(first time)

	Depends if you lure some friends with a case of beer to help.
	If so, about three or four weeks after work & the weekends, 
	fixing stuff as you go along.  Waiting for parts will probably the
	greatest delay...

From "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov> Mon Sep 11 07:42:02 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 07:42:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: French lessons
>>>>> William L. Grouell writes:

> >  Perhaps the
> > original siege devices contained additional materials to provide an 
> > olfactory suggestion of intestinal gasses.
> > Walt Swain

>   I take it you are not a "black powder" shooter.

I haven't messed around with the basic stuff since I was a kid making 
powder with sulfur, saltpeter and charcoal, and don't have a clear 
recollection of the smell.  I gather that "...additional materials to 
provide an olfactory suggestion of intestinal gasses" isn't necessary.  
The relation between the etymolgy of the term and it's more recent use 
becomes (sniff) increasingly clear.

Regards,

Walt Swain

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Mon Sep 11 09:54:21 1995 
Date:          Mon, 11 Sep 1995 09:54:21 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Is this a good idea?
  Will Cantrell asks,
 
> Would it be a good idea to find a good frame of a parts truck and have it hot
> dipped?
If it's in good shape. I plan to do it with mine. A good place will 
acid dip it to strip it before hot dipping it.

> How much would the galvinization cost?
Some years back it was going to cost me under $500 for a 109 frame. I 
forget exactly.
> Where could I get it done?
Look in the phone book under metal treating. If you can't find any go 
to the library and look in the nearest big city phone book.
> How long does it take to swap a chassis?(first time)
Depends how fast you work. It's taking me about 15 years on my 109.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Duncan Rose <duncan.rose@bt-sys.bt.co.uk> 11 1995 Sep U
 1915 
Date: 11 Sep 1995 15:52:16 U
From: Duncan Rose <duncan.rose@bt-sys.bt.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Thermostatic coolong fans
Nigel,

I have been down this route when considering the cooling requirements of my
V8 Eagle Jeep (Range Rover underneath).  It had a 10 or 12 inch kenlow that
looked pretty weedy.

At the time I wasnt sure whether to stay mechanical or go electric.  In the
end I went electric because it can be switched off when going into water, and
also I tend to do lots of shortish journeys.

I measured the maximum size of electric fan that could be mounted.   Knowing
this I asked for the "air flow" specificiations from both Kenlow and Pacet,
making sure to compare at equivilant air resistance coefficients (I think I
used 0.3).  

Most interestingly was that a single 15 inch (I think) Pacet unit had a
throughput equivalent (approx 1500 cubic feet per min) to two 12 inch Kenlows
(about 800 cubic feet per min each) !  The choice was then easy - Pacet.  
If you choose electric, watch out for the width of the fan, they vary
enormously from model to model.

Anyway - I have been really happy ever since, I find the large Pacet very
reassuring.  Any thoughts please reply.

Duncan A D Rose

From terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Mon Sep 11 17:51:48 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 17:51:48 +0200
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Re: silly sounds
>          The funny sound comes from the transmission
>          direction, or clutch. It sounds like a wizzing
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>          "sticking" throw out bearing but don't know if it
>          is a faulty master cylinder.

At a guess I'd say the whizzing sound could be air in the clutch system,
but ist should migrate to the reservoir by it self. Of course it could
also be a sticky clutch part... You mentioned murky fluids, so it could 
be a rubber seal in the slave (or master) giving up its ghost...

Grinding... When gearing up or down? I'd guess its due to the unsynchronized
1st/2nd gears.

>          How about this one; gear oil leaking from the
>          Flywheel and engine oil leaking from the cam pully
>          area.

Gear oil from flywheel housing: Leaky front seal on the gearbox. (thats 
inside the bell housing and a *bitch* to get at... Engine oil from the
cam pully area? I assume you mean at the front of the engine, where the fan 
belt pully is? If so, I guess your front main seal is leaking.

TK
terje@tvnorge.no
http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje
1972 88" SII

>.

From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Mon Sep 11 12:18:42 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:18:42 EST
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Subject: Re: Series II Brakes
Sounds similar to a problem I had with an aquarium power 
filter which befuddled all the fishtank experts.  My theory 
was that air was being entrained lines through a leak 
instead of fluid being forced.  I know, seems to defy common 
sense.

Try looking for a leak while someone else is stepping on the 
brake pedal.  Of course, make sure resv is topped up at all 
times.  Look carefully at each connection and along the flex 
hose lengths.  It could be that the leak bleeds on the 
pressure stroke, then ingests air on the return stroke.

Just one guess.

Hank
'60 Ser II 109: "The barely Stoppable Beast"

From mfarrall@well.ox.ac.uk (Martin Farrall) Mon Sep 11 13:10:07 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 13:10:07 +0100
From: mfarrall@well.ox.ac.uk (Martin Farrall)
Subject: Re: ECOFLOW
The Kenlowe electric fan (which I have yet to fit as every spare hour
at the weekend seems to involve fixing asbestos sheeting on top of a
barn) comes with a nifty thermocouple for insertion in a suitable hose
so should only run when fan assisted cooling is really needed.  The
salespitch claims a 5-7% saving in fuel efficiency/power loss, some
reduction in noise, and quicker warming up.

Martin Farrall

From John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Mon Sep 11 10:51:51 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 10:51:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: wwweb
On Sat, 9 Sep 1995, Lloyd Allison wrote:

> I have a copy of Chris Haslam's 1988 Rangie electrics at
>     http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/RR/Haslam/

Is it possible to get these diagrams in the good old-fashioned paper 
form???

Many thanks

JOhn Brabyn
89RR
> I have a copy of Chris Haslam's 1988 Rangie electrics at

From John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Mon Sep 11 11:11:29 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 11:11:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: ECOFLOW
On the subject of cooling system improvements, why doesn't someone make a
decent Thermostat that opens to the full size of the pipes and lets the
full flow of coolant through? I think an electromechanical one that you
could insert in the top radiator hose would be good, with large diameter
and no restriction, controlled by a thermostat switch eg the output of the
existing temperature sender. Then you could remove the conventional
thermostat which seems to me to be the most restrictive part of the system
even when wide open. I for one have found that in places like Death
Valley, even the Range Rover's vaunted cooling system is not up to the
task on occasion. 

Just a thought....

John Brabyn
89RR

From "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> Mon Sep 11 11:19:02 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 11:19:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: French lessons
On Mon, 11 Sep 1995, TONY YATES wrote:

> > This is true.  However, the etymology of 'petard' is traced back through
> > the French and Latin in a long winded series of terms that all relate to
> > the expulsion of intestinal gasses. 

>Does this mean that the Frenchman taunting King Arthur in Monty Python 
>and the Holy Grail should have said:
>"I petard in your general direction"?

Sounds reasonable to me; at least as reasonable as anything else that
might have come out of Monty Python.  However, my recollection of the
Middle French verb was "peter" so I'm sure it would have been properly
conjugated, introducing just the right amount of obtuse obscurity (as
opposed to clear obscurity?) to the exchange. 

Best Petards,

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
               Walter C. Swain          |  wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us 
               Davis Community Network  |  1988 Range Rover
               Davis, California        |  1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW

From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Mon Sep 11 12:23:35 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:23:35 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Bought an '87 RR.
FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Bought an '87 RR.
Hello all,

Last week I asked for some input on a '87 RR for sale, and would like to
thank those who responded. Well, I ended up getting her for $8500 US. This
is around $4000 below the wholesale blue book value, but with reason, which
I will explain.

Problems: Lifter "ticking". (To me, it shows that the oil has not been
regularly changed as claimed) Leather seats "cracked" (surface cracks, again
showing neglect, drying out) one dash vent broken, holding on with tape,
Mylar "gear selector indicator" torn up, tear in back seat carpeting, stereo
and factory CD literally ripped out by thieves, (replaced by "Audiovox in
dash CD player) Hella auxiliary lights and LR fog lights all have cracked
(stone chipped) lenses, power seat switches broken, front door pockets torn
off (by the thieves), missing carpet to cover jack storage, and a variety of
little things broken or otherwise abused by use/abuse (2 *very* rowdy boys).
Oh! and the typical "lucas" bugs.

Good things: *never* been off road, (looked like new underneath, no leaks
except one swivel ball starting to leak) straight body, rino/moo/roo bars,
rear light guards, trailer package including those stupid lights *below* the
rear bumper, (where they're bound to be torn off), new Michelin tyres, A/C
works well, no unusual noises.

Anyone who knows me, knows that I *love* 4-wheeling! And that's a severe
understatement! So, without delay, I "had" to initiate this 8 year old
"virgin" (Oh! My! That didn't sound right... well, you know what I mean!)
So, using "shooting the guns" as an excuse, (like I needed one) we loaded
her up and took off. Handling was very nice, and seemed to be every bit as
capable as the Disco was. Only now, if I were to somehow destroy her, I
won't be paying on her for the next 5 years! Well, that un-marred paint
didn't last too long, I managed to get some of the typical "Arizona desert
pin stripes" in her. Not intentionally, as in aiming for them, but you know,
it just happens! (In fact, my 16 year old son was laughing at me, swerving
to avoid unnecessary contact with brush instead of thrashing right through
it.) I must have a little bit of that "new car" feeling in me. But it'll
pass with time. I do miss the ABS though, got used to it slowing me while
maneuvering the rig instead of plowing without steering control. Maybe
that's a bad thing about ABS, you "forget" how to brake effectively.

So, again, thanks to all who responded!! I really appreciate it!

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___           _______
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_      / /__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |     \_/-\___/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}      ( )    ( )
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (Sold) '87 Range Rover
                                     (Too hard to "draw")

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Mon Sep 11 12:41:27 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:41:27 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: '87 RR misc. problems (part 2 of the story)
FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: '87 RR misc. problems (part 2 of the story)
Hello all, I thought I'd post the problems separately with the "new" toy.
Anyone that has any ideas, please respond. Thanks!!

1. "Low coolant" light flashing. Coolant is full, but stopped flashing when
I added some anyway, and the light went out for a while, then started again
after a few starts and stops. I'd suspect the coolant level sensor? Maybe a
leaking float in the sensor?

2. "Parking brake light" constantly on. Not sure, but maybe brake is not
fully disengaging? Haven't felt the drum yet after driving, to see if it's
hot.

3. not always, but occasionally it severely dogs, like it can't get enough
air or fuel. I'm pretty sure I heard it backfire through the intake too,
when it did this, but nor sure, since the radio was on. Other times it runs
fine. Air filter, maybe? I'm going to replace it Today.

4. Anyone know of an inexpensive source for the seat switches? Mine are not
only not functioning, but totally broken, and need replaced. (can't fix
these ones. :( )

5. Speedometer/odometer not working but cruise control works. No clue, cable
broken?

Thanks everyone! Dave Brown debrown@srp.gov

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

From "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com> Mon Sep 11 12:53:48 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:53:48 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: SIII wiper parts wanted
I'm looking for good condition series III two speed wiper parts to convert my 
double wiper motor Land Rover to a two speed single motor wiper system.

Will consider trading my two functional wiper motors or $$

TeriAnn
twakeman@apple.com

From "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com> Mon Sep 11 12:53:56 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:53:56 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Dormobile parts wanted
I'm looking for the following Dormobile parts and any help tracking them down 
would be much appriciated.

- Grill for stove that commonly comes in Dormobiles

- Curtain rails that normally comes installed in Dormobiles

-  Dormobile roof vent lid.  This is a fiberglass (plastic?) shallow rectangular
box that sits inverted on a doormobile top and is hinged at one side and has an 
opening mechignism at other.  i have the mounting hardware but need the lid.

Any help  locationg these parts appriciated.

Thanks!

TeriAnn
twakeman@apple.com

From "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com> Mon Sep 11 12:54:04 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:54:04 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: 109 2 door tropical top for sale
I have a tropical top for a 109 two door coming up for sale.  The top has the 
second skin, roof air vents and oval top windows.  The sides have two side 
windows on each side.  Top has minor inperfections (edges of top skin a little 
wavey in places from tree branch contact, front of front vent bubbles  slightly 
creased.  Otherwise in good shape.  Front & rear headliner sections installed, I
think I have center section in storrage but no guarentees. Tare in rear 
headliner section. Front plate where sun visor mounts missing.  Top & sides are 
limestone white.

After asking around I believe US$700 is a reasionable price.  Top located in 
California on North Monterey Bay.

TeriAnn
twakeman@apple.com 

From "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com> Mon Sep 11 12:54:36 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 12:54:36 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Dormobile seats for sale
Hi all,

I have a complete set of Dormobile seats for sale.  I think all the special 
mounting hardware is there too. 

To refresh your memories, Dormobile seats fit into a 109 4 door.  They fold down
flat to make a double bed (You always wondered how people could sleep in a 4 
door 109).  The front seat can be reversed to face the rear seat and you can put
a table between the reversed front & rear seats.  Instillation of these seats 
can give you instant sleeping quarters for two and the seats for a small dining 
area without taking up extra space from the car.

I addition I will throw in the special mounting bracket that holds two 2.5 Gal 
propane tanks to the underside of a 109 fourdoor (another Dormobile part).  This
can be thrown in for free if desired when purchasing the seats.

I have Dormobile interior panels (poor condition) with the plastic edging.  
These can be used as patterns for constructing new interior panels.  These can 
be thrown in for free if desired when purchasing the seats.

The seats are in good condition, but after so many years, have minor tares in 
the upholstry.  One seat bottom has had the upholstry removed.  I would suggest 
re-upholstering the seats before mounting, though the upholstry is in much 
better shape than what is in my 109 2 door (except for the one cushon bottom 
without upholstry).

I would like US$550 + shiping and boxing costs for these extreamly rare seats.

TeriAnn
twakeman@apple.com

From Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) 11 1995 Sep GMT
 1904 
Date: 11 Sep 1995 04:08:21 GMT
From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: Half-Shafts, Brakes, etc...
Thanks to everyone for the advice on replacing half shafts.  
It went off without a hitch, took about 3 hours.  It was the short side that
broke, about 1 inch in from the inner end.  The long side looks fine but I
replaced it as well.  Interestingly, I drove about 20 miles after it busted
but I didn't find ANY metal shavings in the diff.  and the break was still
rough.  Was this luck or design?  

Now on to my second question.  My brakes have been getting progressively
mushier over the past three months so when I ordered the new half shafts I
also ordered a MC rebuild kit.  I could see some fluid leakage from the MC
and am pretty sure that's the problem.  (Our '71 IIA has the dual MC with air
assist servo.)

To start the process I undid the brake lines from the MC and then the
MC-to-servo retaining nuts.  I expected the MC to come right off.  It didn't.
 So I took off the whole assembly, pedal and all.  I still can't get the MC
off the servo but when I turned the servo unit over about a quart of brake
fluid came pouring out of the vacuum line.  So THATS where all the break
fluid I've been adding has been going.  

That's where I am now.  The MC won't come off the servo and the servo was
full of brake fluid.  Why won't the MC come off?  I'd really like to use the
same servo as they are NLS in the US - so I don't want to hurt it trying to
get the MC off.  Can I take the servo off the pedal bracket without breaking
some kind of seal?  
Anyone have any ideas on a next step? 

Thanks in advance for any advice.  
Fred

- sent via an evaluation copy of BulkRate (unregistered).

From Scott_Lindsey-RP0342@email.mot.com 11 95 Sep -0500
 1916 
Date: 11 Sep 95 16:43:55 -0500
From: Scott_Lindsey-RP0342@email.mot.com
Subject: RE>Bought an '87 RR.
        Reply to:   RE>Bought an '87 RR.
Dave,
Congrats on the new vehicle!!! It sounds like you got a pretty good deal!!

I look forward to pulling you out of the woods with my FJ soon!!

Scott

PS. Are ya gonna sell your Acura now???
PPS. When we going out!!!

--------------------------------------
From LANDROVER@delphi.com Mon Sep 11 18:29:20 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 18:29:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Subject: Re: Is this a good idea?
Will Cantrell asks...
 
> Would it be a good idea to find a good frame of a parts truck and have it
> hot dipped?
/

Sure... assuming everything is solid. You may have to drill extra holes in
the chassis so that the process is done correctly.

> How much would the galvinization cost?
> Where could I get it done?
/

They charge by weight. You'll have to ask wherever you get it done. It's
cheap enough to get all your galvi trim done at the same time. Where? Where
do you live? Check the yellow pages for something like "metal finishing" I
think.

> How long does it take to swap a chassis?(first time)
/

Depends on how badly things are rusted on and what kind of tools you have. I
talked to someone last year who did one on a three day weekend, I think.
That is very fast. Everything unbolts - but there are a LOT of bolts. taking
things off is usually easier than putting them back on - unless you are
trying to preserve the rusted stuff. You'll probably want to replace things
like brake pipes, spring bushings, etc just because it's worth doing while
everything is apart.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 725-1859                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078              1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)
 

From "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu> Mon Sep 11 15:36:06 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 15:36:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Defender 90 SW - USA
Saw a picture today of the hardtop 90 in the new Road and Track - looks 
just like one of those 43 limited number 90s from late MY94.  i.e. - no 
full EXTERNAL roll cage like the 110 - though the pic didn't include an 
internal view, so I can't vouch for an internal rollcage.  Wouldn't 
surprise me if there were an internal one like in the Camel Discoveries.  
Anyway, it looked really nice (white) and clearly showed a pop-up 
sunroof.  From dealers I've heard arrival begins in Nov. - the magazine 
says Oct.  Better act quick, though, cause the local dealership has all 
of theirs accounted for already...

Frank Twarog
Burlington, VT

BTW - Saw a really nice example of a Monteverdi Range Rover at Rovers 
North today (they were the company that produced conversions from 2 to 4 
doors in the early, pre-production 1980s RRs) as well as a beat-upon 
Camel Disco.  Look out for Chris Stark's 1950 80" Series 1 at the British 
Invasion - still early enough to have the lights behind the grill - LHD too!

From BobandSueB@aol.com Mon Sep 11 19:18:37 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 19:18:37 -0400
From: BobandSueB@aol.com
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
In a message dated 95-09-11 04:38:16 EDT, Andy Dingley wrote:

>Check the tracking and toe out. Make sure it's adjusted by a mechanic who 
>knows that Landies toe *out*, not *in* !

Say What???
Don't  include all Landys  in your assumption! You are liable to mislead some
inexperienced owner.
I don't know about the Rangie,but the Landie does toe in! So watch your
wording please.

Bob B.

From glewis@mgdestmx01.erin.gov.au Tue Sep 12 08:12:21 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 08:12:21 EST
From: glewis@mgdestmx01.erin.gov.au
Subject: G'day to LROs
I've been following the LRO Digest for some time now so time to introduce myself 
and my Landy.

I have a '71 2A 109 which I bought three years ago in Alice Springs.  I lived in 
Central Oz for three years before moving to Canberra for work - I'm really 
enjoying my first winter here in the ACT - NOT!!

>From what I found out from Alice Springs cab drivers, the Landy's log books and 
the local guru Terry Sutton, my 2A has spent 95% of its life in Alice and the 
other 5% at Daly River in the far north of the NT and the last 10 months in 
Canberra.  Taking it up for the first time in the snow was a new expereince for 
the landy, my partner Tina, and the panlicker (mut) - and my first time driving 
in snow.

Whilst at Alice I worked for an Aboriginal Land Council spending much of my time 
out on Aboriginal land with traditional owners - unfortunately in shiny new (and 
airconditioned) Tojo Landcruisers!!  In the heavy sand of the dry riverbeds, on 
weekend camping trips the landy's 4 wheel capabilities compared more than 
favourably with the 20 year younger competitor's (although she's pretty slow on 
the bitumen).

Former owners installed the Oz icon Holden 6 (179) a few years back along with 
FWHs, 2x aux fuel tanks, and added a behind the wheel wood panel with VDO guages 
and a Smiths Tacho.  Electrics were also replaced after the aux of the dual 
batteries (in a rear stowage box) moved and shorted on the frame.  The landy 
also came with a Dean offroad box trailer with matching clearance etc.

Ive since added a full length box steel roofrack w/ladder which has done little 
for the economy, and replaced stolen cibbie oscars with hellas.

Since the long haul down to Canberra I've had plenty of mechanical problems 
which all seem to fall back to the adaptor plate for the Holden 6:  clutch 
master and slave cylinder replacements (wet left boot and the pushrod kept 
falling off!); starter motor bolts not holding; worn clutch plate etc.  

The Holden offers good power for reasonable fuel consumption but I can's make 
the most of it without an overdrive.  Anybody in Oz got a cheap one?  Also, 
anyone with relevant parts, manuals etc?

Oh yes - one question - I am unsure as to servicing the Warn FWHs when I replace 
the wheel bearings - any info would be appreciated.

Also anyone after info on Central Oz - drop me a line.

Email:  glewis@mgdestmx01.erin.gov.au   Work Phone: (06) 271 2175

Cheers.         

From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Tue Sep 12 10:21:11 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 10:21:11 +0930 (CST)
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Toe where???
> In a message dated 95-09-11 04:38:16 EDT, Andy Dingley wrote:
> >Check the tracking and toe out. Make sure it's adjusted by a mechanic who 
> >knows that Landies toe *out*, not *in* !

Bob Replies:
> Say What???
> Don't  include all Landys  in your assumption! You are liable to mislead some
> inexperienced owner.
Here Here, or even worse some lazy wheel aligner.

> I don't know about the Rangie,but the Landie does toe in!
Most of the series vehicles sure, but what about stage ones they toe out, or
at least should.  Try to find a wheel aligner who believes you, even when you
show them the manual....

Best bet would be to check the appropriate manual for your vehicle.

cheers
-- 

  Daryl

From JEPurnell@aol.com Mon Sep 11 21:20:21 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 21:20:21 -0400
From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Subject: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?
Happy beer, cheese, and hockey LROs.  

Can anyone tell me if there are rust-prone spots on the D90s that I can
protect this coming winter?  Frame points?  I guess I am ok with the body,
being aluminium?  Is undercoating suggested?  

I am moving from Los Angeles to Madison, Wisconsin next month, from whence I
hail, (Tom Rowe, I'm comin' home!) after 10 years in heaven (yeah, right! why
leave then).  And I get to bring my Defender with me (how does the song go. .
. "let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.").  I am worried about my little
guy wasting away in the harsh environment, though, should I be?  I've read
horror stories about Series frames points falling off.  

Also, I'm beginning to wonder if I should've gotten the hard top instead of
the soft (didn't know I was moving when I bought it).  Can the soft tops
survive the snow, and freezing temperatures?  (and if it can, can *I* survive
with the soft top, heh heh.)

And speaking of cold temperatures, does anyone have experience with cold
starting these V8s?  Anything to do special? A bit thinner oil to help the
starter (the LA dealer likes his 20W50)?  REAL battery cables?   I notice
that the temp gauge gets up to normal (engine warms up) VERY quickly out
here, I wonder if the radiator bras that block off air are necessary for the
aluminum engine to stay warm?

Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks

John Purnell
California Air Resources Board-Engineering Testing Section (not for long...)
94 D90, No rust yet 

From TONY YATES <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU> Tue Sep 12 09:43:29 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 09:43:29 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: 110 buying
G'day Doug,

Nice to see another Aussie on the list.

The main problem with buying a 110 is that there ain't many around.
This does work in your favour in some ways in that they are an
enthusiasts vehicle, so have probably been well looked after. A
good PO will have lots of receipts to show you.

V8 or diesel? Depends really what you will use it for. For long
outback trips then the diesel is the go. Expect up to 30 mpg and
diesel is easier to find and safer to carry.  For shorter trips
and the occasional longer trip I would go for a V8 but have it
converted to LPG.  Mine is a V8 on LPG and is as economical to run
as a diesel but with all the V8 advantages. Having said that, the
4BD1 is a bloody good motor, the army uses them after all!

Diesels are very hard to find though, you will find that most owners
don't want to part with them and they command a premium on the V8,
expect to pay $10k more.

4-speed or 5-speed? The 4-speed (LT95 - the number refers to the 
distance in mm between the main and layshaft centres apparently),
is a stronger box, the LT77 5-speed started life as a car gearbox
and I have heard stories of them falling apart if abused. They do
give you a better cruising speed though, especially in a diesel.
I don't think the 5-speed was introduced in the V8 at first as it
wasn't considered strong enough.  Mine is a 4-speed and will 
cruise happily all day at 110kmh.

The 4-speed has some problems. The centre diff unit can disintegrate
if abused.(expensive). This usually happens if the vehicle has been
used for heavy off roading without the diff lock being engaged.
Check to see that the diff lock engages/disengages properly. You 
can check this by jacking up one wheel, with the vehicle in gear and
the handbrake off you should be able to rotate the lifted wheel with
the diff lock disengaged but not with it engaged.

(Darryl's suggestion of tight figure 8s is a good one too)

The other problem you are likely to encounter is worn bearings, 
particularly the layshaft bearings.
This is evident by a harsh gear noise in 1,2,3 but quiet in 4. This
is not a huge problem, mine are worn and I have driven 50000km over
18 months including Darwin to Perth with no problems, you just need
to change the oil regularly. It does make a good bargaining point
though. Budget $1000 - $1500 to fix it.

I don't think it is easy to retrofit a 5-speed. The LT95 has an integral
transfer case but the LT77 has a separate one (called LT230), so they
are a totally different shape. I have seen it done on an old RR though.
Whichever you look at expect a clunky gearchange. Such is the nature
of the beast.

Enginewise - the V8 is a lovely motor but doesn't like being neglected.
They tend to sludge up if the oil isn't changed regularly leading to
sticky lifters etc. Listen for a rattly top end. Pull one of the
breather hoses off and look for oil being blown out, this indicates
wear. The cooling system needs regular flushes. Avoid weird carby
conversions, the original twin setup is the best.

Bodily there should be no major problems. The rear door internal frames
tend to rust out at the bottom, they all do it, I think a batch of
doors must have been left in a field for a while then exported to Oz!

The suspension bushes will probably all be worn, unless recently replaced.
Check for a worn load leveller. These are not worth replacing if worn
out, (replacement cost several hundreds), just take it off and throw it
in the bin then get polyairs if you're going to be carrying heavy loads.

The driving position may seem a bit cramped at first but I actually find
the seats very comfortable on long trips.

Don't pay more than $20k for a V8, expect $15-$20k depending on condition
and budget $5000 in repairs if buying at the lower end. Expect to pay
$25k+ for a diesel. (Or $34k for a Tdi Defender if you can afford it,
no? neither can I!). I paid around $16k for mine which was cheap but I
beat them down cos of the worn bearings and the rusty rear door. 

Happy hunting.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

From jpappa01@interserv.com Mon Sep 11 18:52:22 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 18:52:22 PDT
From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Subject: Re: 	Used D90
I posted a D90 4-sale for a friend of mine the other day:

1994 AA Yellow D90 with full soft top/full cage/fiberglass hard top/headlamp 
guards/28K+miles/flawless condition. Offers at $27,000. Other accessories 
available.

Now priced at $25,900.

Contact Conrad Omansky at 617-439-0288 (x116) during weekdays.

From "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@ACC.ROANOKE.EDU> Mon Sep 11 22:22:44 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 22:22:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@ACC.ROANOKE.EDU>
Subject: Parts needed
Hello Rover lovers:

      I sent a message last week but I think I sent it wrong.  Just
an update.  I have the transmission for my '61 SII back together
with the first and reverse gears replaced and all new seals in
place.  Now I need to work on the rest of the machine.

Questions:

     What do I use on my frame to protect it for the upcoming
winter months in Virginia?  It is in excellent shape except for
minor rusting on rear cross member.  While the floors are out it is
easier to get at.

     Does anyone know where I could find a used overdrive in good
shape?  While the tranny is on the shop table it would be a good
time to fit an overdrive.

     I also need a right front fender (the side fender not the
top).  My Rover is white but it is going to be painted anyway.  I
just need one which is straight.

     Last question...should I order the paint for the Rover from
Atlantic British or with a high quality paint from a local supply
shop (the proper LR color of course) work just as well.  In other
words is a special paint required for the Birmabright?

     Thanks in advance for any help!

                                             Stuart Moore
                                             Roanoke College
                                             Salem, VA

                                             '61 series II 88"
                                             '59 MGA Roadster
                                             '68 MGB-GT
                                             '74 MGB Roadster

From "Lee S. Underwood" <71603.3051@compuserve.com> 11 95 Sep EDT
 1922 
Date: 11 Sep 95 22:27:22 EDT
From: "Lee S. Underwood" <71603.3051@compuserve.com>
Subject: 1996 Disco
On Sept. 7, Jim wrote:

 >> re: 1996 Discovery

 Consolidation of option matrix <<

 Can you clarify for me what this means?  Does this mean fewer option
combinations will be available?  Please forgive me if I'm dense.

 Lee
 Disco Owner Wanta-be

From "Lee S. Underwood" <71603.3051@compuserve.com> 11 95 Sep EDT
 1922 
Date: 11 Sep 95 22:45:58 EDT
From: "Lee S. Underwood" <71603.3051@compuserve.com>
Subject: 1996 Disco
On September 7, Jim wrote:

 >> re: 1996 Discovery
 Consolidation of option matrix
 <<

 Can you clarify what this means?  Will there be fewer option combinations
available? Please excuse me if I am being dense.

 Lee
 (1996?) Disco Owner Wanta-Be

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Mon Sep 11 20:09:51 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 20:09:51 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Parts needed
 Stuart H. Moore <SMOORE@acc.roanoke.edu> writes:

>     Last question...should I order the paint for the Rover from
 Atlantic British or with a high quality paint from a local supply
 shop (the proper LR color of course) work just as well.  In other
 words is a special paint required for the Birmabright?

 I think Atlantic British uses the DuPont paint system and paints.
 There is a list floating around which gives the DuPont paint color
 numbers and their Land-Rover equivalent.  Sometime back, AB or RN
 had a nice article in their newsletter on the painting process of
 Birmabright and aluminum.  It's not so much the paint as it is the
 preping of the metal to accept the primer, once the primer is on
 almost any paint can be applied.  To prep the aluminum/Birmabright
 there are a number of chemicals and steps involved, including
 cleaners, reducers, acid etch, etc., but DuPont has the entire paint
 system, and AB and/or RN offer instruction kits with all the chemicals
 sized according to the job you're doing.

 Good Luck (he, he),

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

From Mark Ritter <70472.1130@arl-gw-7.compuserve.com> 12 95 Sep EDT
 1900 
Date: 12 Sep 95 00:08:11 EDT
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@arl-gw-7.compuserve.com>
Subject: Lock Rite off road evaluation
The jury is in and the verdict is guilty - The Lock-Rite has increased the
off-road ability of my Disco a tremendous amount. A full test was done in the
Allatoona Wildlife Management Area north of Atlanta last Wednesday. This area
consists of many wet uneven hills up to 30 degrees in incline. Many are covered
with loose rocks the size of canaloupe. getting up these use to be a case of
getting the right amount of momentum, just enough to make it without hurting
anything. Now I can crawl up these slopes at a slow walking speed and just let
the vehicle work it out. No jarring to the top, just a smooth and controlled
ride with no terrain damaging wheelspin. It works the same going down too, you
just can't get cross-axled with three wheels locked together! The unit is still
working smoothly on the street with just a slight clicking to let you know the
outside whel is unlocking in a turn.I am convinced that I am creating less wear
and tear on both the vehicle and the trails by being locked up when needed as
there is no wheelspin and rough areas can be taken  at a snails pace. The
company is about to evaluate the unit on a D-90 and I will let you know how it
goes, but for the Disco and RR folks this should definitely be on your Christmas
list.
				Mark Ritter  94 Disco
Building the ultimate 
           			Disco one piece at a
        			time.

From Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Mon Sep 11 20:58:01 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 20:58:01 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)
> Every Unimog is equipped with at least one large waste can or bag to 
> retrieve unsightly traces of civilization, 

This is an excellent idea.  I think we should do the same with Land Rovers!

As an aside, on the Paradise run recently, Jeremy (? Jimmy? Gerry? Joe? 
Somebody!) spotted an old "Welcome" mat lying by the side of the trail.  He 
picked it up, and I borrowed it intending to use it as a bit of something to 
lie on while working on the 109".  Anyway, I ended up taking it home, and it 
now lies proudly on the floor of my garage for wiping one's feet on.  How's 
that for recycling!

Let's all plan on picking up trash whenever we're out and about!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

From Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Mon Sep 11 20:58:29 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 20:58:29 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Palto Alo British Car Meet
So Sunday was the big British Car Meet in Palo Alto.  I had spent Saturday in 
Palo Alto as well, toting antique computers around in the 109", so at least I 
knew where I was going.  

Unfortunately, I didn't get to spend as much time as I would have liked at 
the meet; a friend had planned her 90th birthday party for the same day.  So 
I missed seeing and chatting with a number of folks from this list, as well 
as other, non-connected LRO's.  But I did see a few.

There were a total of 3 non-93 110's there, including Dom Diaz's Camel Trophy 
110, which he finally got registered.  I didn't see any of the 500 '93 110's. 
 (Frank, did you make it down?)  

Dan Connor (Danarosa) made it, though I didn't get to talk to him.  Brad 
Blevins, John Hess, Jimmy Patrick, Granville Pool, are just a few of the 
folks I got to say hey to.  All in all, I had a great time, but I wish I had 
had more time.  

I was also cooking and giving away hot dogs on behalf of LROA, which seemed 
popular, but I think that if I had planned it better and sooner, it would 
have worked out even better.  As it was, I didn't have my table, or a real 
sign, or anything.  Next time, eh?  Anyone want to help out?

Someone (an LRO from all the way in Reno!) suggested someone planning a 
get-together the night before at an Irish pub there.  Sounds like a great 
idea to me.  And maybe we don't even have to wait for a british car meet for 
that?

Anyway, I had a good time, though I was a bit disappointed in that I didn't 
get to stay too long.  Can't wait 'til next year!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

From David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> Mon Sep 11 21:27:11 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 1995 21:27:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?
On Mon, 11 Sep 1995 JEPurnell@aol.com wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Happy beer, cheese, and hockey LROs.  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> hail, (Tom Rowe, I'm comin' home!) after 10 years in heaven (yeah, right! why
> leave then). 

Dear John:
The Autumn, 1994 ROVER'S NORTH Newsletter had an article: "DEFENDING THE 
DEFENDER: HERE'S HOW TO KEEP RUST AT BAY" which called attention to six 
areas prone to rust: 1.Body Cappings, 2.Bulkhead Assembly, 3.Door 
Pockets, 4.Mirror Arms, 5.Cross Braces for Rear Floor and 6.Chassis. I 
have written for past articles from the Newsletter in the past and 
they've sent 'em. Their phone # is 802-879-0032.
 
(Vermont has some of the toughest winters in terms of *salt* (when I 
lived there '67-'81, the state had a "dry road" policy for the 
interstate hwy which meant salting until the road was DRY. On the way to 
becoming dry, the salt and snow and sand combined to make a corrosive 
abrasive slush that beat the tar out of all sorts of metal)

I have a copy of the article that I could send by mail or fax if you send 
me your address or a fax # ( but I also suggest that you get on Rovers 
North mailing list if you aren't already because they do offer very good 
mail order service and the newsletter has lots of other good stuff in it.)

Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum
'94 D90 in Seattle 

From Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Tue Sep 12 16:19:23 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 16:19:23 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: landrover.us.dell.com
Does anyone have any ideas what or where the machine `landrover.us.dell.com'
might be ?

Lloyd
Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA
tel: 61 3 9905 5205      fax: 61 3 9905 5146      email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au

From Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier) Mon Sep 11 23:36:52 1995 
Date: Mon, 11 Sep 95 23:36:52 -0700
From: Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier)
Subject: toe out? solex milage
toe out?since when?all my literature says toe in and i do have a lot of
literature and i usually run one eighth of a inch to one sixteenth of an
inch toe in which is standard in the alignment industry.
mileage-22in an 88 with overdrive?not very good in my opinion.i got 22
canadian miles per gallon in a 72 88 with california emisions and 750-16
good year bias tires witha weber carb.my engine compression was around 135
per cylinder.and i was using cheap straight 30w oil.
i got 30 miles to the gallon U.S. last year when i went to the portland
ABFM in a lightweight with overdrive high compression head and dayton
radials 750-16 with a well tuned zenith carb and still running the 24 volt
system.
correction that was 3 years ago.but that also was with pennzoil 20w50.
yup what can i say i've been lurking for some time.
cris youngson-how was portland this year?

From Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au> Tue Sep 12 16:52:26 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 16:52:26 +0930
From: Tiffany Downing <tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)
At 08:58 PM 11/09/95 -0700, you wrote:

>Let's all plan on picking up trash whenever we're out and about!

I'll second that!

Myself and a group of our friends went camping for a weekend up at Burra
(for those locals in the know - Worlds End Gorge).

We had planned to spend both days 4WDriving and the nights partying.
However when we turned up we saw that the camping area was strewn with bits
of broken glass, cardboard and rubbish from other campers.  We spent half
the day cleaning up the area and ended up filling four rubbish bags and 2
cardboard boxes full of glass and other rubbish.  We were amazed that people
could be so inconsiderate. These are the people that spoil things for everyone.

The council has now basically blocked off half of the areas up at Burra and
you can't drive anywhere.  They have turned a beautiful natural camping area
into a sterilised camping ground.  They've graded a huge area and turned it
into a car park with rubbish bins everywhere, fences, posts, do this don't
do that, all because some idiots can't be bothered covering their tracks.
IT SUX!!!

Sorry that's my winge for the day!

Regards

Tiffany Downing

********************************************
Co-ordinator, International Student Programs
TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA
Phone:   (61 8) 226 3202
Fax:     (61 8) 226 3655
E-Mail:  tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au
********************************************

From Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier) Tue Sep 12 00:28:59 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 00:28:59 -0700
From: Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier)
Subject: solex
oh are you in luck.i just found it.!!!!solex model number B40 PA 10-5 is
used on Land-Rovers and Rover cars as factory stock item.engine size for
Landy is 3.562 by 3.5 by 4 and the Rover car is the P4 "80" 3.562 by 3.5 by
4.
what else do you need to know?
now i have a question.does any one have any experience with the Ian
Ashcroft conversions using a different transmission stronger than the 3
series but adaptable to the 3 series transfer case?not the muncie either.i
understand that there is a rover trans he uses that is newer than the 3
series and much stronger.i need strength for my v8 "80".
also.is there any one interested in some coil type axles 90 and 110 with or
without the 3.54 diffFrom sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Tue Sep 12 09:20:38 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 09:20:38 BST
From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: V6
Trefor,  the gearbox used in the conversion is the standard Land Rover series
3 lump. If you have one the 2a is stronger, but otherwise fits in the same
way.  The conversion kit comes with a bell housing adaptor to mate the gearbox
casing to the engine and a spigot bush to mount the clutch to the gearbox input
shaft.  I can't remember which vehicle the flywheel/clutch assembly comes from
but I have a feeling it is a mix of both vehicles.  I will try and remember to
check tonight.

As far a brakes go I have fitted 11 inch drums (and the other bits!) from
a long wheel base.  Before I fitted them I didn't really have any problems with
the 10 inch drums.  Stopping the tyres turning was never a problem!

I have since changed my Land Rover branded tyres for a set of Norsman Armstrong
All Terrains, which I would have described as more like a Trac-Edge tread
than an All-Terrain.  These seem to have much more grip than the Land Rover
branded ones, which were an All-Terrain type tread.  The third gear wheel spins
seem to have stopped now as well.  I suspect that these tyres would have
stressed the 10 inch drums a bit more.

I was cursing the cut I gained in the side wall at the time as well, but the
increase in grip is very significant, as should the grip off road be as the
tread pattern in more aggressive.

If you (or anybody else) would like a closer look at the installation they
are welcome to have a look at mine before they part with the cash for one
of their own.  I live in Fareham, near Portsmouth (England, not VA).

Steve Reddock, Lightweight V6

From Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Tue Sep 12 20:19:48 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 20:19:48 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: LT95
The SIII-stage-1 manual says GTX (or equivalent) in the LT95 gearbox
AND in the transfer case too.  The army uses FMX in the LT95 transfer
case; I have their manual here in front of me.

I am v. curious to know if hypoy is just "not necessary" in the LT95
or actually harmful.

Also, stage-1:  toe-OUT  0.046 to 0.093 in (1.2 to 2.4 mm)
                full-time 4WD is like front-wheel drive.

Lloyd

From Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com> Tue Sep 12 10:55:23 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 10:55:23 +0100 (BST)
From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: Defender 90 SW - USA
Francis J. Twarog writes:	
> 	BTW - Saw a really nice example of a Monteverdi Range Rover at Rovers 
> 	North today (they were the company that produced conversions from 2 to 4 
> 	doors in the early, pre-production 1980s RRs) as well as a beat-upon 
> 	Camel Disco.  Look out for Chris Stark's 1950 80" Series 1 at the British 
> 	Invasion - still early enough to have the lights behind the grill - LHD too!

Hi,

Is there any chance you could get me the chassis number (in particular, and any other
info such as colour, licence number, history, etc, that may be available) of the 
Monteverdi?  We are compiling a Monteverdi list similar to the Velar list at

	URL	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/velar.html
	
but unlike the Velar list, there is no definative list of how many Monteverdi's
were built (niether Land Rover or Monteverdi seem to have complete records).  The
Monteverdi list as it is should appear as

	URL	http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/monteverdi.html
	
towards the end of this week.

Regards

	Rick
__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside                 Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park      Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom                Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk 

From Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com> Tue Sep 12 11:27:12 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 11:27:12 +0100 (BST)
From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: Isuzu 4BD1
Lloyd Allison writes:
> 	I have no first hand experience of the Isuzu, but I have heard remarks like
> [...]	
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> 	which one?) for big-engine transplants, so maybe it has a little more
> 	strength?

I have a friend who has a 2.8 (I believe) non intercooled Isuzu Turbo diesel engine
in his Range Rover.  It started out with a 4-speed box, currently has the long stick
5-speed, and is probably going to be changed again for the Turbo D (or Tdi) short
stick box (sorry model numbers are beyond me today - been on holiday for a few days,
and returned to 1361 mail messages!).

Anyway back to the story, 4-speed is okay for pulling away, but leads to noisy 
crusing and I believe higher fuel consumption than the 5-speed.  The 5-speed is okay 
once the Turbo is spinning, but it will not pull off in first from a standing start
at the botton of the hill (but the Turbo D or Tdi box should fix that with a lower 
first gear than V-8 box), requires low range to get it moving.  However the 5-speed box 
suits the engine much better than the 4-speed once the Turbo is wound up.
__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside                 Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park      Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom                Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk 

From LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil> Tue Sep 12 7:42:12 1995 
Date:     Tue, 12 Sep 95 7:42:12 EDT (1142Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Rear Hub Oil Seals
All,

Does anyone have the "commercial equivalent" part number(s) for rear axle hub 
oil seals (Part Number RTC3510)?  I'd prefer double lipped seals, if possible.
Yes, I know, I did a SPOTS and changed the seals without the distance piece the
last time, and now I'm getting seepage.  Trying to get thru inspection in a 
hurry.  Now I know better!

Second, does anyone one have experience with Slick 50 causing more seepage in
gearboxes than without?  Added S50 at the last change, and the diffs, trans,
and xfer all seem to be a bit wetter.  The S50 does make the boxes quieter
though.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Larry

From Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk> Tue Sep 12 13:44:00 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 13:44:00 GMT
From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: V6 Bits and Bobs
Steve,

Thanks for the reply and the information.  I may take you up on the offer to 
view your landrover sometime as I now live in Reading so Portsmouth is not 
too far away.

As I said in my first posting, I have the option of buying a 3.0L V6 SWB 
SII.  The situation has now become a little more complicated.

I now have the option of buying a 3.5L V8 LWB SIII for a sensible price. 
 This one needs some work (rusty outriggers) but is basically sound.  In its 
favour is that it is newer and an original fitment.  Against it is the fact 
that it is a LWB.  Any thoughts ?.

Trefor.
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

From Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Tue Sep 12 14:12:00 1995 
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 14:12:00 +0000
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject:       Re: V6 Bits and Bobs
On 12 Sep 95, Trefor Delve wrote:

> I now have the option of buying a 3.5L V8 LWB SIII for a sensible
> price. This one needs some work (rusty outriggers) but is basically
> sound.  In its favour is that it is newer and an original fitment. 
> Against it is the fact that it is a LWB.  Any thoughts ?. 
It depends on the intended use.. If it's to be a trials/competition 
machine, go for the SWB, if it's for travelling and non-competitive 
offroad work, go for the LWB!

The extra 21" in the wheelbase makes a huge difference in driving comfort 
- the undulations in the route are evened out and the vehicle doesn't jump 
about in the same chaotic way.
The other advantage is that insurers understand the 109 stage 1!

The only downside is fuel consumption - the V8 is much thirstier that the 
newer V6.

Just my 2p

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

From Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk> Tue Sep 12 14:53:56 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 14:53:56 BST
From: Andrew Grafton <A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Baby Bottle Heaters
>                 Baby bottle heater.Damn good idea! Details,costs,methods
                 please?For those of us without garages etc?

> The baby bottle heater was left over after the kids stopped being babies,
[snippety]
> Total cost less than =A320.00, the one I had took about 4 amps at 12 volt so
> the power of the thing is quite low but with an old blanket over the engine
> and radiator overnight in winter my water system did not freeze up. The

Just a word of warning in the old amperage front - Even those really 
big batteries like us Oily Wadders have only hold a maximum of 
between 100 and 120Ah of charge (unless you've installed one from
an earthmover or similar!).  Some of the more weedy petrol ones
I've seen clock in at about 80Ah or less.

If you leave the bottle heater on for 10 hours (say), then your
120Ah (I selected this 'cause it is the best case...)  battery 
will be about 1/3 drained - starting a diesel with the charge 
like that may be quite difficult, and could be damaging to the
battery.  Repeated deep-ish discharges, which could be caused
when using a lower capacity battery for the same job, will
definitely damage the battery.

Anyone know what is a safe discharge level for 'normal' auto
batteries?  How does that compare to the deep discharge camper
models?  By 'safe' I mean the level to which you can discharge 
them repeatedly without damage.

This is on my mind at the moment because I significantly discharged
my 110Ah battery (made starting painful) by leaving a 'fridge plugged
in pulling 6.5A for 6 hours...

All the best,

Andy
A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk

From burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) Tue Sep 12 06:57:38 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 06:57:38 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>At 08:58 PM 11/09/95 -0700, you wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>>Let's all plan on picking up trash whenever we're out and about!
>I'll second that!
Last March, as I was wandering in the Canyon Lands in Utah, I
came upon a portion to the  trail, that reminded me of Detroit.
It seems that some one had broke a rear window, and left the glass
all over the trail. Since I dislike being reminded of Detroit,
I swepted up all the glass I could find. I ended up with about
100 lbs of glass, and sand which i put in a plastic bag inside of
my dirty clothes bag. Returning to the Ranger Station, I asked
where they would like me to deposit my 100lbs of glass, and sand.
The promply responded "Moab", which happened to be 70 miles away.
I rather curtly explained, that while I was nice enought to clean 
the trail, displace my dirty clothes, I was not going to haul this
cargo to MOAB. I would just dump it in the trash out side, and let
the Park service deal with 100 lbs of glass and sand in a 20lbs
plastic bag. The Ranger then hurried to the back room, and returned
with another female ranger carrying a gun. Her first question was,
"Why did you pick up the sand". Gun, or no gun I was getting tired
of this mess, and just wanted to get out side. So I explained, that
while I was willing to sweep up the glass from the trail, I was
unwilling to sift the glass from the sand. But since I understood
how precious 50 lbs of sand was to the canyonlands,if the park
service would sift out the Glass, I would return the sand.
After giving it careful thought, the lady park ranger with a
gun, made a mountionous decision, and decided that the park
wouldn't miss the 50lbs of sand this time. But she would have
to fill out a felony litter report on the truck which left the
glass. Luckly my  window was still intact, and she had to write
it up for an unknow truck. 
As I left, I was wondering what the fine was for stealing 50 lbs
of sand, but thought I better not ask as I was sure there was
another 50lbs of sand in my clothes, car, and intestines....

Russ Burns
94-d90
91-R-rover 
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

From "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov> Tue Sep 12 07:33:14 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 07:33:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@s101dcascr.wr.usgs.gov>
Subject: Re: V6 Bits and Bobs
>>>>> Mr Ian Stuart writes:

> The only downside is fuel consumption - the V8 is much thirstier that the 
> newer V6.

There is a lot of discussion about "the V6" lately.  Can anybody 
enlighten me on the point of just exactly what V6 this is?  Often 
specified as the 3.0 l V6.

Thanks

Walter Swain      1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol
Davis, CA         1988 Range Rover

From Grahame.Harden@BRI.NRC.CA Tue Sep 12 10:35:34 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 10:35:34 -0400
From: Grahame.Harden@BRI.NRC.CA
Subject: Fans
> How does the fan save money?

Quite simply! Electric fans run only when they have to.... less
load on the poor old fan-belt so you can slacken that off and
save money on bearings too. The real great advantage is in the warm up,
etc... my experiences are simply that removing the fan is essential.
However, I wouldn't if I was ploughing a field all day, driving
up tp Cape York, or spending all day parked on the M25.
My experience also is limited to the old diesel, which *never* seems
to have a thermal problem, apart from generating it.

Spending a few years in Finland (Oulu, yes, that far up), the fan never
came on! Ploughing through the forests, and other mayhem, still had
no real heat coming through. I had no engine block heater, just a 
sump of 5/30 oil, a bloody large battery and spare heater plugs!
Always went no problem at -40C. 

Just a warning, when I did get back to 'reality', the fan rattled for
ages on the M25... taking out the alternator (yeh, it was 15 years young).
Something to bear in mind if you fit one, do ensure that the old Joe
16ACR is not on life support. I found a huge thing to take it's place,
lots of alternator space on the 2286, so that problem will not happen again.

The one really useful thing with these electriv things is that when the
old heap is up to her grill in deep water, you haven't got a mechanical
fan blasting water everywhere! Especially a Good Idea if you have one
of the 'proper' petrol engines with that darling lucas distributor in the
breeze.

Grahame

From greg@triteal.com (Greg White) Tue Sep 12 08:04:06 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 08:04:06 -0800
From: greg@triteal.com (Greg White)
Subject: 65 Series Two Fender Wanted
I'm in need of a new old stock Right Hand Side (US Passenger) front
fender(for my 1965 Series II A restoration project.  I've got the new side
panel, but need the top & inner wing panel assembly.

Anyone out their know of anyone who will part with one?  I'll pay a
reasonable price.

Thanks in advance,

Greg White

Gregory Jay White                         (619) 930-2077 Phone, EXT 5515
TriTeal Corporation                       (619) 930-2081 FAX
2011 Palomar Airport Road, Suite 200      EMAIL: greg.white@triteal.com
Carlsbad, CA  92009-1431                  WWW:    http://www.triteal.com/

From Sanna@aol.com Tue Sep 12 11:24:40 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 11:24:40 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?
>And speaking of cold temperatures, does anyone have experience with cold
starting these V8s? 

I just turn the key.  I think my '89 RR V8 is similar to your D90.  Although
at -30, the starter's really churning through that thick oil and it takes a
while for the heater to kick in.  The battery and anti-freeze are the most
crucial elements.

By the way, on the soft top in winter question.  My rag-top IIa has gone
through a couple dozen Wisconsin winters and has had no problems.  The canvas
(real canvas on Lullubelle) deteriorates from the sun and summers, not the
cold.  In 25 years I have bought about 4 or 5 tops.  The only winter failure
I've had is when the snow load took out a sun-rotted top some years ago.
 What a way to wake up in the morning!  Try a foot of snow in your lap along
with your morning coffee.  Brrrr..

Since I put a Mansfield heater in Lullubelle, she's been warm enough, even
with all the air leaks.  If you've got a decent heater in your D90, you'll do
fine.  When my son & I drove Lullubelle out to Oregon last January, we had to
plow through some very cold weather (-13 high in the Dakotas).  Most of our
body parts where nice & toasty with the Mansfield, except for a few that got
frostbitten from the sub-zero drafts (probably in the -40 to -60 wind chill
at road speed).  We got some of those chemical heat packs that ice fishermen
use in Mobridge SD.  By strategically placing them on your temples & forehead
under hat, on your wrist under the cuff, inside your gloves, and a few other
strategic places, we survived. 

You'll do fine in Wisconsin.  The local diet of beer, bratwurst (if your not
from WI you've never had a real one), and deep-fried cheese curds helps too.

Tony

From Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Tue Sep 12 16:18:03 1995 
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 16:18:03 +0000
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Subject:       Re: V6 Bits and Bobs
On 12 Sep 95, Walter C. Swain wrote:

> >>>>> Mr Ian Stuart writes:
> > The only downside is fuel consumption - the V8 is much thirstier that
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> enlighten me on the point of just exactly what V6 this is?  Often 
> specified as the 3.0 l V6.
The ford V6 engine (as fitted to certain Lightweights)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

From Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk> Tue Sep 12 16:24:00 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 16:24:00 GMT
From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: The V6 referred to in V6 bits and bobs
Walter,

The V6 being referred to is the 3.0L V6 Ford engine which I believe is 
called (at least in the UK) the Essex engine.  The V6 Steve Reddock referred 
to in his posting was the 2.8 injection which is similar to the Essex engine 
but has different heads (and injection not surprisingly).

Trefor.
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Tue Sep 12 11:39:33 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 11:39:33 EST
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Subject: Re[2]: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)
Russell,

Hide your wife and baby!  (These 2 Rangers will no doubt be back from China 
soon.)

And all you other dangerous sand-stealers -- you will be tracked down, so don't 
leave tracks, i.e., tread lightly.

Hank
> Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)
> Author:  burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) at Zeus

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 58 lines)]
> Russ Burns________________________________________________________________ 
> CiscoSystems

From PHLY4CHAR@aol.com Tue Sep 12 12:00:37 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 12:00:37 -0400
From: PHLY4CHAR@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1995 Discovery Growling Noise
CpaulP@aol.com wrote:
>My 1995 Discovery 5 Speed has been making an intermittent "growling" noise.
It is very difficult to pin down exactly when or why this happens. It only
does this for a short time and then the engine noise returns to its normal
sound.  It seems to be most noticeable in gears 1 & 2.  Has anyone else
experience this and can you advise what it is. ...

I have had perhaps the same problem with my 1995 AUTOMATIC Discovery since
about 2,500 miles (now at 15,000 miles).  As referred to previously on LRODD
as "Roaring", I have pinned it down to occurring only upon the initial
movement of the vehicle and continuing variably for the first mile or so, but
only after the vehicle has sat for some time.  Sometimes that could be a
stoplight, other times it takes sitting for hours.  It is not related to
motor speed, gear shifting or outside temperature. The clearest example of
the phenomena occurs if I start in first gear on a level road keeping at a
constant RPM.  The gearbox/engine/? makes an obvious, loud roar for a period
and then suddenly quiets to its normal condition.  

I have had the problem investigated by two dealers, several times.  The first
two times at the shops they could find nothing wrong. Apparently a lot of
suburban owners aren't used to normal Discovery noises and I suppose they
dismissed me as a LR newbie. For the most recent visit I took them on a test
drive and they did hear the roar and replaced the viscous fan coupling.
 Unfortunately, being an erratic problem, it seemed OK at first but then it
was right back.  I'm also interested in anyone's real solution and causal
theories.  I have become really concerned about the longevity of my drive
components.  
             Bob Jameson,       Pennsylvania, USA

From Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM> Tue Sep 12 12:06:44 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 12:06:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Series II fenders
Greg,

> I'm in need of a new old stock Right Hand Side (US Passenger) front
> fender(for my 1965 Series II A restoration project.  I've got the new side
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Anyone out their know of anyone who will part with one?  I'll pay a
> reasonable price.

    Rovers North always seems to run across stuff like this, you might
    ask them.  Too bad you're not looking for the left side; when I was
    up there last week, they had TWO of them sitting on the shelf. 
    Looked pretty dusty, like they'd been there a while...

    Duncan

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 12 11:29:02 1995 
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 11:29:02 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Baby Bottle Heaters
Andrew Grafton asks about discharging batteries.
Andy,
As far as I know, and my experience, an occasional discharge, even 
total, will not significantly harm a regular auto battery. By 
significant, I mean I could never tell. However, repeated discharges 
will, that's what the marine batteries are for and they are designed 
differently. I used one as my sole battery for around 8 years. I had 
bought it for a winch battery and ended up using it alone, so it got 
alot of use by the winch also. I just replaced it this spring with 
another one.
As for an engine heater, ZeroStat (don't know if they're in the UK) 
makes a propane fired cooling system heater for overnight heating. 
It's pretty compact, about 2" dia x 7-9" high. But you'll need a 
small propane tank mounted somewhere.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 12 11:38:06 1995 
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 11:38:06 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: Rear Hub Oil Seals
Larry Smith asks about hub seals for ...(what? I'm assuming a series)
National 410694
Chicago Rawhde 23152

I can't remember if these are the double lip or not. If they aren't, 
the dealer can check the specs and give you the double lip eqivalent.

A double lip isn't designed to better keep in the lubricant exactly. 
The extra lip is designed to keep abrasive material from damaging the 
lube retaining lip.
Check your distance piece on the stub axle, many are bad and 
contribute to leaking seals. the are easy to replace.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM> Tue Sep 12 12:39:55 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 12:39:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Camel Trophy details
All,
    Having been away for a week, I had a lot of e-mail to plow through. 
    I remember seeing one with details about tryouts for the 1996 Camel
    Trophy, and darned if I didn't delete it, apparently.  Would
    someone mind reposting that, or mailing me a copy directly?  (It's
    not for me, it's for someone else.  Though now that I think about
    it, leaving my job for a few months has a certain appeal if they'd
    let me!!)

    Thanks,
    Duncan

From burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns) Tue Sep 12 09:44:23 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 09:44:23 -0700
From: burns@lint.cisco.com (Russell burns)
Subject: Re: 1995 Discovery Growling Noise
>aren't used to normal Discovery noises and I suppose they
>dismissed me as a LR newbie. For the most recent visit I took them on a test
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>components.  
>             Bob Jameson,       Pennsylvania, USA

I was going to suggest that it might be the fan.
If it only happens when the engine is started hot,
it might be the fan being engaged. After it runs
a few minutes it would cool down and disengage.
Both of my 3.9 landies roar when the fan engages.

Russ Burns
D-90
R-ROver
>aren't used to normal Discovery noises and I suppose they
Russ Burns________________________________________________________________
CiscoSystems

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 12 12:11:51 1995 
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 12:11:51 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       diesel injection pumps
The CAV rotory pumps (actually any rotory pump) will lock up if they  
get wet after being at operational temp. At least so I'm told by an 
injection shop. Has anyone ever had this problem on a Land Rover?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore) Tue Sep 12 13:46:27 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 13:46:27 -0400
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Subject: RE: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?
JEPurnell@aol writes:

>Can anyone tell me if there are rust-prone spots on the D90s that I can
>protect this coming winter?  Frame points?  I guess I am ok with the body,
>being aluminium?  Is undercoating suggested?

Last fall, Rover's North provided info in their newsletter about areas that 
were susceptible to rust on the D90.  I'll try to fish it out and respost 
later.

>Also, I'm beginning to wonder if I should've gotten the hard top instead of
>the soft (didn't know I was moving when I bought it).  Can the soft tops
>survive the snow, and freezing temperatures?  (and if it can, can *I* survive
>with the soft top, heh heh.)

I have no doubt that the Tickford can withstand the cold.  I went through the 
deep freeze in Virginia (in VIRGINIA?) with it and the only thing I noticed is 
that, as expected, it gets very stiff, especially the plastic windows.  In 
extreme cold (like around minus 20 or worse), I'd expect these windows to 
potentially become brittle, so be careful!  If the top fails, LRNA is offering 
a reconditioned replacement (re: bad zippers, etc.) where they basically 
replace the windows with thicker plastic, and the zippers with heavy YKK-type 
(haven't broke a zipper since I got the reconditioned one!).
As for you surviving the freezing temps, my advice is to dress warmly, and if 
the wind is blowing hard, try using a leather snowmobile mask with a parka 
hood!  The heater may just have enough to keep the interior above freezing, 
but leakage through the canvas is considerable, and gets much worse when the 
wind blows.

>And speaking of cold temperatures, does anyone have experience with cold
>starting these V8s?  Anything to do special? A bit thinner oil to help the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>here, I wonder if the radiator bras that block off air are necessary for the
>aluminum engine to stay warm?

The engines tend to run rough until warmed up.  I invested in the RN radiator 
muff, and not only was rewarded with a smoother running engine, but also more 
(not much!) cabin heat.  I would've been happy just putting a sheet of 
cardboard in from of the radiator, but my SO said NO!

Bill Skidmore

From Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier) Tue Sep 12 11:25:24 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 11:25:24 -0700
From: Andre_Maier@mindlink.bc.ca (Andre Maier)
Subject: s2 brakes
it sounds like you have a slow bypass in your master.clamp of all the
rubber brake lines with a proper brake hose clamp or something similar so
as not to mark or cut the lines and see if your brakes pump up.if they do
then leave it for a while and check back later.if the pressure has gone
down then you have a leak in the junction or the metal lines going into the
rubber ones or on your metal lines out of the master,and lastly a by
passing master.if your lines are rusty then replace them before they blow
for saftey sake.
any swollen rubber in the braking system indicates contamination and must
be dealt with right away before you loose all your brakes.

From Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com> Tue Sep 12 11:14:28 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 11:14:28 TZ
From: Robert Watson (CNA) <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: re: Baby Bottle Heaters
Anyone know what is a safe discharge level for 'normal' auto  
batteries?  How does that compare to the deep discharge camper  models? 
 By 'safe' I mean the level to which you can discharge  them repeatedly 
without damage.
---------
I asked a battery dealer what the difference between a "normal" battery 
and a "deep discharge" battery was and got this explanation:

"Deep Discharge" batteries have thicker plates than "normal" batteries. 
Each time you discharge a lead-acid battery, then re-charge it you lose 
some plate material so that deep-discharge batteries are able to endure 
this type of use longer than "normal" batteries. Normal batteries are 
designed to provide starting power (a brief discharge) and then after 
being recharged, they don't do much but filter the alternator which 
supplies all the electrical needs while the engine is running. Since 
they don't discharge very deeply, very often, they don't consume their 
plates very fast.

So a few deep discharges won't noticibly harm the battery, but repeated 
deep discharges will cause a normal battery to wear out prematurely.
 

From Mark Talbot <71035.3215@acgw01.compuserve.com> 12 95 Sep EDT
 1914 
Date: 12 Sep 95 14:44:26 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@acgw01.compuserve.com>
Subject: Paint code
I'm looking for the Rover Paint code for Marine BLUE, anyone know it ?

Mark

From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Tue Sep 12 15:09:08 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 15:09:08 EST
From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Subject: Crush Washers -- Not What They Used to Be
Just picked up a few copper "crush washers" for the oil pan 
drain plug on a 3.9 V8i.  They are supposed to be changed 
every time the plug is removed/reinstalled.

Those of us with Series vehs are familiar with the old, 
truly deforming copper crush washer that had an airgap in 
the cross-section which flattened out as the plug got tight. 
 Well, the ones for new vehicles are die-cut out of copper 
alloy sheet and are "solid."  I was at first a bit 
concerned, but they do bend under firm finger pressure, and 
the new Disco isn't leaking from the plug, so I guess 
they're OK.  I *do* think however, that they probably 
require a bit more torque than I'd apply to the Series or a 
veh with a non-metallic washer.  I also hope the old-style 
ones haven't been replaced in the stock system by these new 
ones as an equal substitute

Regards,
Hank.

From jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John Hess) Sun Sep 10 11:42:01 1995 
Date: Sun, 10 Sep 1995 11:42:01 -0800
From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (John Hess)
Subject: book wanted
I'm sorry to bomb the list but I can't see any other way to reach everyone
"across the pond".  I'm looking for the following book and have had no luck
when contacting used book stores in the US.  If anyone could inquire at a
local bookshop or call the automobile book shop in London (off lester
square, sorry for the spelling)  I would appreciate it.

Owen, Roderic.
     Roddy Owen's Africa: a journey by Land-Rover across the seventy-year gap
   between a pioneer in Africa and his great-nephew.  Abingdon (Berks.),
   Marcham Manor P., 1967 [i.e. 1968].

John F. Hess, PhD                   Phone me 916 752 8420
Dept of Cell Bio. and Hum. Anat.    FAX me (ask first)
University of Calif
Davis, CA                           Email me jfhess@ucdavis.edu

From jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick) Tue Sep 12 12:23:23 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 12:23:23 -0700
From: jimmyp@netcom.com (Jimmy Patrick)
Subject: I'm bleeding and can't stop...
I know that we've probably been over this one thousands of times but....

Mabel's (1960 88") brake pedal is in the pump once mode right now (i.e.
sponge city).  I have cleaned up and checked rebuilt all the wheel
cylinders to no effect. I have bled and bled and bled. I have tried to
bleed in the order of the Haynes manual, And in the manner of the factory
manual, I have bled by pressing on the pedal smartly and I have bled by
pressing on the pedal stupidly. I have jacked the front of the vehicle to
the sky to bleed the stinking thing. Still on pump once and then use the
brake mode. I think I have tried everything short of winching it up into a
tree. Is there still air in there or what??? How can I get it out?

For info, I have the CB (with the large bolt on the back)type master and
can detect no leaks along the lines.

Mabel has also given this disease to one of her friends, but that involves
the late IIA type master with the vacuum assist.

Any tips or tricks for either type of brake system would be greatlyy
appreciated.

cheers,

jimmy patrick

--
Jimmy Patrick
jimmyp@netcom.com
                                                 

From Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Tue Sep 12 15:47:17 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 15:47:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Paint code
On 12 Sep 1995, Mark Talbot wrote:

> I'm looking for the Rover Paint code for Marine BLUE, anyone know it ?

	LR      = RTC4043A
	Unipart = GAP407
	Dupont  = 38503

From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> 12 95 Sep EDT
 1915 
Date: 12 Sep 95 15:48:16 EDT
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Subject: Re: Paint code
Here' some info Bill Grouell sent to me. I pass it along with our
compliments... -ajr

 any DuPont paint jobber should be able to mix
up Rover colors in single quart cans. (If anyone has any other #'s, pass
them along.)

        Bronze green    38500
        Mid grey        38501
        Sand            38502
        Marine blue     38503
        Pastel green    38504
        Limestone       38505
        Poppy red       38506
        Burnt grey      38508
        Davos white     38514
        Mexican brown   38519
        Cameron green   38520
        Almond yellow   38521

Sand                               ACF/004 or 26291
        Almond yellow   38521        "camel yellow"   SandGlow, it is
        also a old Jaguar color 

For "DuLux" alkyd enamle, append a "D" to the paint color number.  Add an
"L" of laquer, or "A" for Centari acrylic enamel.  Other part numbers:

        Dulux hardener                  77s
        Aluminum cleaner                225s
        Aluminum conversion coating     226s
        "Variprime" two-part primer     615s
        Engine enamel
         "Detroit Diesel Alpine Green"  #225 (made by Tempo)

Automotive paints are quite sensitive to temperatures: use the following
thinners/retarders.  If you must paint at higher temps, add an anti-wrinkle
agent:

        DuLux Thinner   Temp Range      Centari Thinner Temp Range
           #8508        below 65 F           #8034       below 70 F
           #3812        65-75 F              #8022       70-85 F
           #3864        70-80 F              #8093       above 85 F
           #8522        above 80 F

The DuLux cannot be clear-coated, though the Centari can be protected in
this fashion.  DuLux can be mixed for brush application (like for roofs)
rather than spray applicatio, though.  DuPont "Corlar" two-part epoxy is
another primer alternative.  As it is intended for aircraft, it is only
available in gallon cans, and in grey.  Better living through chemistry...
I wasn't trying to sell AB's paint, but only thought the color names
might be of interest. Right you are on being able to buy it anywhere, and
here are the match numbers, courtesy Rovers North. Don't blame me if you go
out and get 10 gallons and it don't match. I got some Dupont acrylic enamel
to paint my fire wall with this number and it dosn't match anything, but
that's just because the thing is so fadded and oxidized. I'm sure these are
as correct as you can get. And a lovley red it is.

                        Dupont Centari       Ditzler       Glasurit
     
     Limestone             38505A             46251        
     Marine Blue           38503A             16514         ROV504
     Poppy Red             38506AH                          ROV303
     Light (Pastel) Green  38504A                           ROV605
     Sand                               ACF/004 or 26291
     Bronze Green          38500A             46451         LEY637
     Arctic White
  
Regards, Bill G.

Taken from the Rovers North newsletter (Spring '91), the paint codes for
 popular Series Land Rover colors are:
               RM Supermax   Ditzler   Glasurit   Dupont Centauri
 Limestone       RV-040       46251                  38505-A 
 Marine Blue     RV-017       16514     ROV-504      38503-A
 Poppy Red       RV-029                 ROV-303      38506-AH
 Pastel Green    RV-028                 ROV-605      38504-A
 Bronze Green    RV-027       46451     LEY-637      38500-A
 Some colors require white primer, others grey.

 

From "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Tue Sep 12 15:00:45 1995 
Date:          Tue, 12 Sep 1995 15:00:45 GMT -0600
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Subject:       Re: I'm bleeding and can't stop...
Have you checked the metal lines, especially the one's that run along 
the top of the top of the frame to the rear? I've seen pinhole leaks 
in these that were hard to detect.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Tue Sep 12 13:08:04 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 13:08:04 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Paint code
> I'm looking for the Rover Paint code for Marine BLUE, anyone know it ?
> Mark

More than you asked for and well worth what you paid...

                        Dupont Centari       Ditzler       Glasurit
     
     Limestone             38505A             46251        
     Marine Blue           38503A             16514         ROV504
     Poppy Red             38506AH                          ROV303
     Light (Pastel) Green  38504A                           ROV605
     Sand                               ACF/004 or 26291
     Bronze Green          38500A             46451         LEY637
     Arctic White
  

Taken from the Rovers North newsletter (Spring '91), the paint codes for
 popular Series Land Rover colors are:
               RM Supermax   Ditzler   Glasurit   Dupont Centauri
 Limestone       RV-040       46251                  38505-A 
 Marine Blue     RV-017       16514     ROV-504      38503-A
 Poppy Red       RV-029                 ROV-303      38506-AH
 Pastel Green    RV-028                 ROV-605      38504-A
 Bronze Green    RV-027       46451     LEY-637      38500-A
 Some colors require white primer, others grey.

and, stolen from Sandy Grice;

Several people have asked questions about painting Birmabright as of late,
so I thought I'd pass along a few part numbers and whatnot.  Most all of
the part numbers are DuPont; any DuPont paint jobber should be able to mix
up Rover colors in single quart cans. (If anyone has any other #'s, pass
them along.)

        Bronze green    38500
        Mid grey        38501
        Sand            38502
        Marine blue     38503
        Pastel green    38504
        Limestone       38505
        Poppy red       38506
        Burnt grey      38508
        Davos white     38514
        Mexican brown   38519
        Cameron green   38520
        Almond yellow   38521

Sand                               ACF/004 or 26291
        Almond yellow   38521        "camel yellow"   SandGlow, it is
        also a old Jaguar color 

For "DuLux" alkyd enamle, append a "D" to the paint color number.  Add an
"L" of laquer, or "A" for Centari acrylic enamel.  Other part numbers:

        Dulux hardener                  77s
        Aluminum cleaner                225s
        Aluminum conversion coating     226s
        "Variprime" two-part primer     615s
        Engine enamel
         "Detroit Diesel Alpine Green"  #225 (made by Tempo)

Automotive paints are quite sensitive to temperatures: use the following
thinners/retarders.  If you must paint at higher temps, add an anti-wrinkle
agent:

        DuLux Thinner   Temp Range      Centari Thinner Temp Range
           #8508        below 65 F           #8034       below 70 F
           #3812        65-75 F              #8022       70-85 F
           #3864        70-80 F              #8093       above 85 F
           #8522        above 80 F

The DuLux cannot be clear-coated, though the Centari can be protected in
this fashion.  DuLux can be mixed for brush application (like for roofs)
rather than spray applicatio, though.  DuPont "Corlar" two-part epoxy is
another primer alternative.  As it is intended for aircraft, it is only
available in gallon cans, and in grey.  Better living through chemistry...

R, bg

 

From ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Tue Sep 12 16:17:17 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 16:17:17 EDT
From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov
Subject: RR Questions
Dave Brown Writes:

Anyone that has any ideas, please respond. Thanks!!

1. "Low coolant" light flashing. Coolant is full, but stopped flashing when
I added some anyway, and the light went out for a while, then started again
after a few starts and stops. I'd suspect the coolant level sensor? Maybe a
leaking float in the sensor?

Sensor is bad.  New one around $50 from Rovers North.  A flashing light on my 
dash drives me nuts.  While I was waiting on a new unit, I put a stop to the 
flashing by shorting the sensor wires together with a wire staple.  Pretty 
Rover-esque fix, huh?

2. "Parking brake light" constantly on. Not sure, but maybe brake is not
fully disengaging? Haven't felt the drum yet after driving, to see if it's
hot.

My bet is you've got a bad switch.  I believe switch is under the center 
console ( or was that some other vehicle used to work on?).  Even if shoes 
were sticking, the ratchet lever would engage switch and extinguish the light. 
 Right?

3. not always, but occasionally it severely dogs, like it can't get enough
air or fuel. I'm pretty sure I heard it backfire through the intake too,
when it did this, but nor sure, since the radio was on. Other times it runs
fine. Air filter, maybe? I'm going to replace it Today.

When my RR was squirrely like that, it turned out to be plugs.  One was 
completely crapped out. Never had plugs go bad to that extent in any other of 
my vehicles.

5. Speedometer/odometer not working but cruise control works. No clue, cable
broken?

Try looking where the cable goes into the speedometer in the instrument 
binnacle.  On mine the end came out of the gear housing. This let gears 
disengage.   Look around for a flat disc about the size of a penny on the 
floor or in the cover on the underside of the steering wheel.  Press and 
superglue it back into place.  I actually used a filed down penny to fix mine, 
then found the little part when I reassembled everything.  If you want to do 
it right, I think I saw the part in AB's RR parts list for about $100.

Good Luck!

Scott Fugate
1970 IIA 88
1989 RR

BT

From David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Tue Sep 12 15:59:55 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 15:59:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: Rear Hub Oil Seals
Larry, what you want is a National 410694.  That is the double lip seal.  
If you want the single lip, leave off the last digit.  The demensions of 
that seal in case you want to go some other brand is 2.312 x 3.350 x 
.375.  With these numbers you can go to any good bearing supply store and 
get any brand you want.  I have installed double lip Nationals in my rear 
and front axle seals in the past month and with moly slip I have not 
found any seal failure.  It is a bit soon to say for sure but they seem 
to be fine.  My front hubs have a mixture of moly slip grease and oil and 
theydon't seem to be leaking.  Good luck.  
On another topic.  Maybe we should add replace all brake hoses to the how 
to reactivate a vehicle that has been standing for a few years.  Today I 
got a call from my daughter at university some 25 miles away that the 
Austin we brought back to life after a 7 year sit on blocks had no 
brakes.  I went in and found that the front hose had separated from the 
crimped on fitting at the brake wheel cyl.  I have never had this happen 
with N.A. vehicles but perhaps Girling is like Lucus and has some 
problems.  From now on I am going to replace all rubber hoses after a 
long sit.  I have done it in My Land Rovers just because I like to tinker 
but from now on all vehicles at our house with long periods of sitting 
are going to get hoses all round.  Perhaps the snow under the vehicle is 
to blame here since the wheels will sit in snow for the entire winter and 
then be wet each sping.  This could have been very serious if she had not 
pulled into a parking lot.  Dave VE4PN

From John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Tue Sep 12 14:18:58 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 14:18:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: RR Questions
Re Dave Brown's question on the engine gagging etc -- yes it could be the 
plugs, leads or diesributor cap/rotor I guess -- I didn't think of that 
initially. Certainly I have found on mine they need regular replacing 
otherwise you're in trouble.

Cheers

John

From David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Tue Sep 12 16:28:40 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 16:28:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Re: I'm bleeding and can't stop...
Hi Jimmy.  I have been down that road many times with my vehicles and I 
have found that the best way to solve this is to bleed not from the wheel 
cyl screw but at the junctions from the master and then finish with the 
normal cyl bleed screws.  Start by bleeding to the junction box just down 
from the fire wall.  Once you get a good no bubble bleed there, go to the 
next junction and so on.  You can tell if the air is in the front or rear 
by using a brake line clamp to close off the rubber lines or failing this 
use vise grips but be very careful you don't cut the lines.  I would start 
by clamping off the single hose to the rear.  This gives you two wheels 
cut off with only one clamp.  If you have air then it is not in the 
rear.  Always remember to start on the bleed screws with the closest 
wheel first and then get farther and farther to the reservoir. The shop 
manual says that all brake shoe adjusters must be slackened off to minimize 
wheel cylinder volume and reduce the possibility of air being trapped.  
You have a CB or centre ball type if it has the big nut.  This one has to 
be pumped evenly up and down once then stop for a second or two and then 
pumped up and down once again in that sequence.  The CV type is down a 
full stroke and then a number of little strokes then one long up and down 
stroke.  This is important.  Remember on the CB to push slowly and 
release slowly or you will intrain air.  Maybe that is your problem.  
Another important thing I have found after doing this for 30 years is use 
the clear glass bleed system not the in air squirt system.  By this I 
mean put a pipe on the bleed screw and let the air escape into a glass jar 
with liquid in it and don't loosen the screw so much air is sucked around 
the threads.  Let the liquid squirt into the liquid and watch till only 
liquid escapes and no bubbles.  Tighten the screw before you remove the 
hose from the liquid.  If you do this it will work.  If it doesn't you 
need a master rebuild kit or your steel lines or rubber hoses are porous.  
Have fun.  Dave VE4PN

 

From David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Tue Sep 12 16:47:53 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 16:47:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Power brake servo
I was sitting here trying to think how I could check out the servo 
without taking it apart.  If the diaphragm was shot, wouldn't it let 
vaccuum leak out and the engine would run rough?  Rubber cement or a 
vulcanized patch like on tire tubes would solve the problem if there was 
a pin hole. Valcanizing uses sulphur to make the rubber stronger and more 
elastic so I suspect it might do the trick on the servo.  The one way 
valve is only a PCV type one way valve so one out of a Valiant for 
example might do the trick.  Has anyone found a way to give new life to a 
dead servo?
On another point.  I have never tried this but my mechanic friend who 
worked for a carb rebuilding shop says if you don't have carb cleaner to 
soak your carb in use vinegar.  It might be a bit more eco conscious than 
the strong agents we normally use.  I suspect it would need more time to 
work but it should do the trick.  Dave VE4PN
 

From Sanna@aol.com Tue Sep 12 17:48:22 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 17:48:22 -0400
From: Sanna@aol.com
Subject: Re: RR Questions
>1. "Low coolant" light flashing. Coolant is full
>2. "Parking brake light" constantly on.

#1.  It's the switch.  Lucas, you know.  Annabelle did the same thing.  I
fiddled around with it forever until I just replaced the switch.  Fixed!

2#.  Your parking brake warning light is also the warning light for low brake
fluid.  I also fiddled with the parking brake & its switch until the day I
lost my brakes completely.  Now I know.  I've been topping up the brake
resevoir since then every time the light comes back on.  On Thursday she goes
in for, among other things, a new bar reducing valve.

Tony

From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Tue Sep 12 14:12:58 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 14:12:58 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: I'm bleeding and can't stop...
 Jimmy Patrick <jimmyp@netcom.com> writes:

>Mabel's (1960 88") brake pedal is in the pump once mode right now...
>I have jacked the front of the vehicle to the sky to bleed the thing

 An article in the AB or RN newsletter a while back pointed out that
 the older Series models should not be jacked up to bleed the brakes.
 Apparently this traps air in the rear (?) brake cylinders.

-Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com

From "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com> Tue Sep 12 16:11:53 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 16:11:53 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: I'm bleeding and can't stop...
In message <199509121927.OAA24545@butler.uk.stratus.com> Jimmy Patrick writes:
 
> Mabel's (1960 88") brake pedal is in the pump once mode right now (i.e.
; sponge city).  I have cleaned up and checked rebuilt all the wheel
> cylinders to no effect. I have bled and bled and bled. I have tried to
; bleed in the order of the Haynes manual, And in the manner of the factory
> manual, I have bled by pressing on the pedal smartly and I have bled by
; pressing on the pedal stupidly. I have jacked the front of the vehicle to
> the sky to bleed the stinking thing. Still on pump once and then use the
; brake mode. I think I have tried everything short of winching it up into a
> tree. Is there still air in there or what??? How can I get it out?

Jimmy,
Assuming your master cylinder does not have an internal leak causing your 
problems, do a power bleed on the system.  You can ether spend a bunch on an E-Z
bleed system, lose lots of fluid figuring how tight to tighten the cap & how low
to bleed your tyre so as not to blow the E-Z bleed's seals, or you can find a 
garage that does power bleeding and bring some DOT 4 with you.  I'm doing more 
of the latter lately.  You can generally get a lot of power bleeds done for you 
for the price of an E-Z bleed.  Brake pushing just doesn't really seem get all 
the air out of a Land Rover system.

TeriAnn

From JDolan2109@aol.com Tue Sep 12 20:33:59 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 20:33:59 -0400
From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Subject: Trial by Tranny...
Well, my 'shot in the ass' tranny is out and a better one (hopefully!) is in.
Have yet to properly tighten bellhousing nuts (just got it in, secured it and
had to walk away), but once thats done, on goes another transfer case, new
mounts and the OD unit. Still haven't figured out what is wrong with the bad
units, I'll save that for some winter's evening, next to the woodstove. When
I described my symptoms (only noise in 1234,  but movement in Reverse!) to a
heavy equipment/tractor mechanic for the state of Vermont, he said it could
be the pinion gear or the drive shaft splines. His advice was to "keep it
simple, stupid!". Alas those didn't work out to be the problem, as nothing
was exiting the box, let alone getting to the driveshaft. Both units are so
sloppy, that they should have been replaced anyway as a
precautionary/preventative measure. Oh, well...

I do have a couple of 'quick' questions and am hoping a 'real timer' might
pick them up and respond via direct email with some advice. I usually access
early AM, before phone rates start to grow.
1). In the Fairey/Superwinch overdrive, there is an anti-chafing lubricant
used on the inside of the overdrive mainshaft. Since this unit is being
returned to service, should I provide a similar substance? If so, what is
suggested? (Would I be foolish to use a slurry of Marvel mystery oil and
neversieze? That works well in other applications) Does oil reach this area
during  normal operation, and if so is this just a provision to avoid a dry
break in? I'll lubricate it anyway prior to reassembly, but want to provide
adequately for the future.
2) This one might be a 'no-brainer' on my part but here goes: Given this
scenario: both front wheels on the ground, front drive shaft disconnected (at
flange from transfer case), and front hubs locked. I can rotate the front
driveshaft freely and get no engagement of the front wheels. Does this mean
there is something seriously wrong with my front diff. or a broken half shaft
or something? It just seems odd to me... (I hope it's not one of those 'when
it rains, it pours' situations evolving here...)
Anyway, this thing is going back together, and I do believe it will get me to
Stowe (Even if I put the old tranny back in and drive there in reverse!).
Hope to see you there. Stop by if you're in the neighborhood.
See 'ya on the old road... (hope I'm on it and not next to it!)
Jim  '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's   ('on the mend')
LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! 
 

From David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA> Tue Sep 12 20:39:06 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 20:39:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: David John Place <umplace@cc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: servo unit
I have just come in from doing a whole lot of brake work on my Austin 
Marina.  I am convinced that the servo in the 77 Marina is the same unit 
in the 79 Land Rover 88.  These should be available for rebuild even if 
the LR units are not.  Does anyone on the other side of the pond know if 
you can get the diaphragm for Austins of about 75 to 85 vintage?  Maybe 
we will get these things going yet.  I bet if I bought a new Marina servo 
I could get it a lot cheaper than LR.  Something like buying Jaguar when 
some Morris Minor part would fit just as well for 1/3 the cost.  Dave VE4PN

From Randy Parker <rparker@tiac.net> Tue Sep 12 21:40:00 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 21:40:00 -0400
From: Randy Parker <rparker@tiac.net>
Subject: Re: landrover.us.dell.com
At 04:19 PM 9/12/95 +1000, Lloyd Allison wrote:

>Does anyone have any ideas what or where the machine `landrover.us.dell.com'
>might be ?

Dell Computer uses us.dell.com for their U.S. hosts (see
http:/www.us.dell.com for example), so landrover.us.dell.com is just one of
their corporate machines (possibly just someone's PC) in that sub-domain
(child-to-parent relationship reads left-to-right in host names).   Could be
located anywhere - highest likelihood is Austin, TX.

-- Randy

From "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com> Tue Sep 12 19:02:02 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 19:02:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Rusty D90s in Wisconsin?
You wrote... >The local diet of beer, bratwurst (if your not
from WI you've never had a real one)

I'll bet there are about 80-90 million Germans, Austrians and Swiss who 
would disagree with you.

Prost!
John

From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Tue Sep 12 23:23:17 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 1995 23:23:17 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Steering woes
Following the thread on steering woes, I think that many can be traced to 
*one* source - the steering relay in the front cross member.  
Coincidentally, Bruce McEaneney of DAP is going to be conducting a tech 
session on rebuilding steering boxes at the Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally.

We already have *50* vehicles registered and are expecting 100+.  One of the 
prizes is going to be a pair of Dunlop Radial Rover 16" tyres.  Camel Trophy 
memorabilia as well.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

From jpappa01@interserv.com Tue Sep 12 20:56:46 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 20:56:46 PDT
From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Subject: Re: 1996 DISCO
First 96 Disco arrived at LRMW today - Altai Silver w/grey interior. It was an 
*SE-7* version - the highest NAS trim spec. available. Confirm the 4.0 litre 
mill with distributorless *coil packs* as in the new Rangey. Detuned to 182 hp 
and 233 Ft/# torque - up *1* pound! As I stated earlier - the 4.0 transplant 
was strictly for `96 emissions compliance - and NAS is *only* market to be 
getting 4.0 in Disco. Also main reason for no Defender 90 for 1996...

Other touches in SE-7 model? Power seats(!). Similar to classic Rangey seat 
buttons except they are located on sides of cubby box - excellent placement. 
Auto-dimming rearview mirror. Super-tweeters in A-pillars upgrade the factory 
stereo - otherwise unchanged. CD-changer now mounts under passenger seat and 
is reachable from inside car with doors closed... Freestyle wheels on SE cars 
are same as NAS 4.0 SE Rangey. Built-in factory fog lamps in front dam similar 
to all previous Range Rovers. Price for SE-7 (high end model) is 38550 incl. 
freight/dest. charges. Good news is that *Base* model is *SAME* price (30575 
incl. freight) as 1995 - and it is available in *ALL* standard colors 

So, DISCO predicatbly moving upscale - *BUT* Land Rover at least aware of need 
to keep base model near to 30K price point. 

New issue of AUTOWEEK today mentions that BMW might be sending 3 models or 
Rover car over here towards end of decade to complement Land Rover line.

cheerz,

Jim 

`67 2A 88 5.0L Hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L Hybrid
`68 2B Forward Control Diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #350
                                                                              
                                                                       

From RICKCRIDER@aol.com Wed Sep 13 01:32:40 1995 
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 1995 01:32:40 -0400
From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Subject: Canvas Top Treatment
This question really relates to my *Alfas* black (faded) canvas
top........just pretend it relates to the canvas top on your favorite 101 or
lightweight (except for color...)......
The top has some age on it,  but no snags,  tears,  etc.   Was, (should be )
black...has faded to gray.    Would like to treat it with something, not only
to preserve and waterproof it, but also to darken it.   How 'bout a product
like 'Thompsons Water Seal'.....and.....should I attempt to 'dye' it before
waterproofing?   Who else better to ask about preserving and waterproofing
tricks than LRO's.....right?   Thanks folks.
Rick Crider  KD4FXA
Monroe  NC
' 66 Slla  109"      'Hugo'           .......still for sale to good home.....
' 73 Slll    88"       'Jesse'    .....best little Rover I've ever
known......
' 88  Range  Rover   ........no name....my daily pack mule....never left me
yet.
.........and.....more Alfas than I can afford.

From bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Wed Sep 13 01:42:49 1995 
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 1995 01:42:49 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>At 08:58 PM 11/09/95 -0700, you wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)]
>IT SUX!!!
>Sorry that's my winge for the day!

Just goes to show what I have been saying for ten years. And yeas, no one
ever listened. The goverment in is Kindergarten mode; someone did this, so
all of you will be punished for it. This has been happeneing for ten years
plus now. the only difference is now it is over things people care about.
think about it.
                                        
                                   -=>Brian<=-

From sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de (Kurt Reinhardt) Tue Sep 12 20:17:31 1995 
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 95 20:17:31 +0200
From: sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de (Kurt Reinhardt)
Subject: tecnical data 
Hi folks
I need your help for getting tecnical data about thFrom bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Wed Sep 13 04:16:21 1995 
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 1995 04:16:21 -0400
From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner)
Subject: Re: Environmental Abuse (Was: Rover Abuse)
>> ever listened. The goverment in is Kindergarten mode; someone did this, so
>> all of you will be punished for it. This has been happeneing for ten years
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>> plus now. the only difference is now it is over things people care about.
>> think about it.

Ug. That is one of the most incoherent messages I can remember posting.
thanks for being kind.

>I fear its a little more complicated than this but there certainly is this
>aspect to the whole thing.   One problem which really sticks with me, and one
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>that Mike R. has strong feelings on (g) is that of personal responsibility
>for your own actions.

That was my point. the point is eveyone makes it too complicated. Like most
things in life, it is not complicated, it is simple. People complicate
things, that are simple. Hence, the world is a mess. Nothing is complicated.
The hairs on the back of my neck stand on end every time I hear that phrase.
Life is simple. People are complicated......

>Plenty of people and governments are scared witless of major law suits
>following injury to people doing stupid things.  In the NT (OZ)
>this certainly has had an impact on where you can go and how places are
>setup.

yup. But, why? We made it complictaed. Most lawsuits like the one that
follows are absolutely ridiculous. And they should be treated as such.
>As an example of the problem consider this case:
>14 Yo girl falls off beach side cliff @ ~2am following drinking bing with
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>always certain.....
>just my gripe

Mine too! People have complicted what is simple....

I get grief for SCUBA diving alone. Who should tell me where , and what I
should do with my life? I get the argument that rescue divers will have to
risk their life to recover my dead body. What? Who asked them to be recue
divers? BTW, I am a Rescue diver and a New York City Paramedic of 7 years
experience. If I wish to risk my life it is my business. I am sick of the
circular impact on society theory. Including Helmets and Seatbelts. It does
not matter that it is safer. It is my life. When we allow the GOVT. to run a
conveluted argument on how, for instance, head trauma from motorcyclists
increase insurance premiums, and therefor, they can make a law to prtect us
from them, we have become a ridiculous society. Heck I can make a stronger
argument for Armor in the shower! Statisticly speaking. My message? Be
careful of what power you give the Govt.
                                        
                                   -=>Brian<=-

From sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Wed Sep 13 10:23:50 1995 
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 95 10:23:50 BST
From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: Which V6?
The V6's which have been discussed recently (or at least the ones I am
discussing) are both 2.8l and 3.0l Ford V6 engines also known as the Cologne
and Essex engines respectively.  They were fitted to European Fords of
various types, such as the Capri, Granada and Transit Vans.

The 3.0l is the earlier one and is also slightly less powerful/refined I
believe.  The 3.0 is preferred by the racers however as the power potential
is higher for it.  Or perhaps it is just perceived that way as the faster
2.8s had fuel injection and to your average engine builder hard, to modify.

Most of the 2.8s I have heard of fitted to L/Rs have been the lower spec
carb. engine.  I don't know of any reason for this apart from cost.

As far as insurance goes I am only paying 160 UKP for third party F/T and I
am only 23.

I would go for a short wheel base though because it is lighter than the
long wheel base & hence faster.  Although the extra room of a 109 would
be nice at times.  But then again I am a bit of a hooligan at times.  When
it is safe to give it some stick, I have no hesitation in wellying it. I have
not found the 88" to be overly twitchy.  I have never spun it.  I can balance
it on the throttle exiting roundabouts and whilst at the Southern Hill Rally
a few weeks ago I was a