From jory@org.org (jory bell) Mon Jul 31 01:02:56 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 01:02:56 -0700 From: jory@org.org (jory bell) Subject: Re[2]: DAP experiences [schnip] :OK, Spencer. I have no intention of becoming an apologist for Al, not that :any apologies are warranted. As you can see, those who know Al as Tom and I :do are not offended by a "pompous" manner and sometimes rough language. : :As to Al's observations, they are proving themselves correct. I'm guilty :of chattering in repeating Al's comments, and you're willing to destroy DAP's :fine reputation with a quaint little story that is nothing more than heresay! I don't know about all this chattering or whatever, but I had terrible experiences with both the qualitu of parts and service from DAP back when it was in Wareham, Massachusetts. Al was always pleasant enough though... he just sold sucky parts in my several [thousand dollars worth of] experience. If the impending changes in LR parts distribution (less "original" parts, etc) mean more OEM the likes of that sold by DAP, I may have to consider selling my rover, since I can't afford to replace all my major components every couple of years or so... jory From Mike Rooth Mon Jul 31 9:23:21 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 9:23:21 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Distinguished Owners..Another David Gower,ex England cricket captain(and local lad) New Range Rover Reg M170LKV. Cheers Mike Rooth From i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Mon Jul 31 11:57:35 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 11:57:35 BST From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Subject: Brake Judder Hi all Well my SWB has successfully passed its MOT :-), (how it got through the emissions, I'll never know) just in time because we're off on holiday next weekend. However, on driving back from the MOT centre, I found that there is conseiderable juddering at the rear when I break. Also one of the rear wheels locks. And this had just passed its MOT!!! (ie. road worthiness test).I removed the break drums from both rear wheels to reveal lots of fibrous material, presumably break lining. Also the surfaces of the shoes appear to be flaking in some places Could this be causing the juddering? The break drums do not appear to be warped. Just before the MOT I replaced the rear diff with a spare (not reconditioned unit). Could it be the diff? Any help gratefully received as I would like to drive home to Bonnie Sotland and back next week! Cheers Ian From Alan Richer 31 95 Jul EDT 1908 Date: 31 Jul 95 8:54:44 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Suggestions for throttle linkage bits needed Yeah, me again...8*) Well, the motor is in and ran with fuel poured down its gullet. I am pleased....which is an understatement. However, I am missing a bit or two and am looing at suggestions as to sources of supply. What I need at present is the linkage betweeen the throttle bellcrank mounted on the steering box and the linkage of the Solex (yeah, I know, gotta get a Weber, but I have it and it works) and the ball ends that affix the aforementioned device to the links. Anybody got one lying around in the junkbox they want to lose, or any suggestions as to a good source of supply for said items new? Vultures R" Us... -ajr From mmurphy@evolving.com (Mark Murphy) Mon Jul 31 07:16:17 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 07:16:17 -0600 From: mmurphy@evolving.com (Mark Murphy) Subject: Discovery Door Locks Just bought a '95 Discovery and have a question about the door locks. When I use the key or remote to unlock the doors, all five doors unlock. For me at work, this isn't a problem. If my wife take the Discovery to class (gets out a 9:30 pm) and thinks someone is by the vehicle, all five doors unlocking is not good. Am I missing something? How do I get just the driver's door to unlock? thanks, Mark Murphy '95 white 5spd cloth Discovery - 5 days old, ~4600 lbs From hiner@roadrunner.com (Greg Hiner) Mon Jul 31 09:50:44 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 09:50:44 -0600 From: hiner@roadrunner.com (Greg Hiner) Subject: 5 speeds for LR This is a follow up to a question floating around earlier about 5 speed transmissions for series LR. Advance Adapters in the US 805 238-7000 fax 805 238-4201 imports an adapted heavy duty Nissan 4 & 5 speed transmission from Mark's 4WD Adaptors in Australia (03-793-3388) that is modified to bolt directly to the LR transfer case. Bellhousings available for Holden 6 cylinder, Ford 6 cylinder, Range Rover and Leyland V8s and Isuzu Diesels (as well as Nissan diesels). At the time when I got the info (1994) there was no bellhousing available for the 2.25. They were supposed to come out with one soon however. Though the transmission bolts directly to the transfer case I do believe that it is longer than the original 4 speed so you will need to shift the engine forward. Greg From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Mon Jul 31 11:06:59 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 11:06:59 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: winch mount for RR I apologize for accidentally deleting an inquitry from someone with a 90 RR regarding a hidden winch mount; if you recontact me I'll send the information! My apologies John Brabyn 89RR From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Mon Jul 31 13:23:24 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 13:23:24 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: LAND ROVER ICON All, I have converted the LRLOGO from bitmap to ICO. Anyone want a copy e-mail me back. Mark From Jimi Patel Mon Jul 31 11:11:25 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 11:11:25 -0700 From: Jimi Patel Subject: DAP experiences Dear Michael Carradine, Can you please e-mail me DAP's phone number. I would like to convey the fellow rover-net members ... Have you tried to get parts from England for a 20/30 year old vehicles?? and see it for yourselves what you come across. Countless phone calls, wrong parts being sent, waiting months etc. While DAP, RN, BP etc., are really doing us a service providing parts and technical information and what nots. A small amount of dis-service ought not warrant a bad label on DAP. Regards, Jimi Patel.. e-mail jimi@voyager.jpl.nasa.gov P.S. I have never used the above mentioned parts stores, but i understand to give them a try having constantly getting stuff from England WRONG!!! From "R. Pierce Reid" 31 95 Jul EDT 1916 Date: 31 Jul 95 16:46:35 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid" Subject: D90 Gaiters -- How To Wonder of wonders, gaiters *do* fit on a D90. Of course, it takes a lot of fabrication, drilling, grinding and language that would make a drill sergeant blush. First, the fabrication -- this starts when someone tells you that Land Rover makes a part 'RTC3826' that is supposed to fit the D90. This is a complete fabrication. But, whether it fits or not is beside the point. You need to buy one. (BTW, I am not sure what it is *supposed* to fit. But I can assure you that it is not supposed to fit a U.S. Spec. D90.) Before we get into the joyous process of installation... let's define gaiters (this is especially for the benefit of those who have never owned a Series Rover and have therefore never had to endure the pain of being told you need to shell out $600 for new swivel balls because your old ones are pitted like a giant golf ball.) Gaiters are leather 'bags' that cover the swivel balls on the ends of your front axle. The swivel balls are part of a ball and socket-type joint that makes up the front steering arrangement. These balls are made of steel and are totally exposed to the elements. On series Land Rovers, they seem to be made of Rust and merely covered with a very thin clating of a shiny metallic looking substance. Though the swivel balls are constantly 'wiped' with oil from the front seals, the eventually can succumb to the elements (and salty roads) and end up pitted. When this happens, the oil runs out of the reservoirs inside the swivel balls and onto your garage floor (or onto the windshield of the Yugo that is tailgating you) necessitating constant replenishment of oil. The pits also chew up your seals, making them useless. And, the pits can allow water to penetrate, causing even worse problems, not the least of which is having to explain to your spouse or significant other that you have to shell out another $400 to Rovers North for additional parts.. Though I have heard claims that the D90 swivel balls are a more rust-resistant alloy than the old Series LR's... I am not sure I want to wait 5 years to see if that's true, and I have a hunch U.S. Spec D90 parts are going to stay *really* expensive well into the future. When covered with leather gaiters, these swivel balls are considerably better protected from the elements. Mind you, gaiters are not perfect, but they are better than a constant bath of salt spray in the winter and they can keep dust and sand off the swivel balls in more tropical/dusty climates. Personally, I like having gaiters on a Rover. So... now that you know *why* you want gaiters. Once you have part number 'RTC3826', unwrapped from the plastic bag with "Genuine Land Rover" written in Farsi on it, you will see you have 2 leather pieces that can be shaped into cones, 2 shoelace like strings, 2 large hose clamps and 4 metal pieces of varying shapes and lengths that I call "half-rings". You will also see that you have no @#$%ing instructions (but that's ok, because we men never ask directions and real Land Rover owners never read the instructions anyway.) Your first step is to gather tools... you will need a small (and I mean small -- 1/4 drive Craftsman is ideal) socket wrench, metric sockets, a grinder, drill with bits up to 1/4 inch, a rat-tail file (1/4 inch), flat file, a leather punch (optional), and lots of shop rags. Also some 90 weight gear oil and a tub of axle grease and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol. For those who want to take the wheel off (it is not necessary) you will need a jack and jackstands. Really, you can do this with the wheel on. Start by slathering the leather pieces generously with axle grease, especially on the inside (thr rough side). Work it in with your hands... saturate the leather well. Then, go have a few beers and leave the project overnight so the leather can soak up the grease. This is important as it helps waterproof the leather and if the leather is not water resistant, it becomes (you guessed it) water absorbant. You know what that will do... Next morning, you are ready to begin. Take the alcohol and use it to thoroughly clean the swivel ball. Clean the crud off the seal and off the seal retainer ring as well. You want all the sand and dirt off and a spotlessly clean swivel ball (and immediate area.) Now, you're ready to begin. You'll note that the holes on the metal half-ring parts you have do not line up with the nuts on the swivel ball seal retaining ring. You will have to drill some new holes and elongate some existing ones in the half-ring. On the right hand wheel (on your left as you face the vehicle), use the shorter of the two metal pieces across the bottom... from about 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock. The slightly longer one goes over the top. Since you are a Land Rover owner and would be insulted if I stated the obvious... you will need to look at how the holes line up and make suitable modifications to the piece so that the bolts line up. This will involve elongating a couple of holes and drilling a couple more. It will also involve grinding about 1/4 inch off the top metal bracket at the 3 o'clock position. You will also have to grind a small section out of one piece at about the 8 o'clock position to allow it to clear the wheel stop bolt. Once the pieces are lined up, you are ready to install the leather pieces. First, remove the three bolts along the bottom (they are at about 8, 6 and 4 o'clock around the swivel ball.) When you undo these, you will get some oil leakage unless you hold your thumb on the retaining ring at about the 6 O'clock position. Now, line up the holes on the leather piece with the holes on the metal ring. You will probably need to punch at least one new hole. Position the leather, too, so that the seam you will later stitch up is at the rear (three O'clock position). Then, bolt the half-ring into place and fold the flap over the top of the axle and out of your way. Then, remove the three top bolts and attach the leather piece under the top half-ring so that it is secured all around. (I know, this is a very hard process to visualize when written out, but if you own a Defender, you will be able to figure out this process very quickly... really.) Now, lace the leather up in back. It will be easier if you start the engine and turn the wheel all the way to the left. Lace the gaiters in an X pattern, overlapping the leather so that the holes on the top flap go over the top of the first set of holes on the bottom flap. Then lace in an X pattern and tie off. Finally, take the hose clamp and install it right next to the large flange that connects the swivel ball assembly to the axle housing. The flange will have about 8 large bolts through it, and you want to get the clamp as close to these bolts as possible. Put the screw at 6 o'clock facing forward. Tighten until almost completely tight, start the engine again and thrn the wheels lock to lock a couple of times. Then, make sure the leather is not bunched up or snagged anywhere. Then, turn the engine off and tighten the hose clamp the rest of the way. The other wheel is about the same as the first... but requires grinding and drilling holes in different places. Again, you are Land Rover owners... you'll know what to do. Finally, slap a little (ok, a lot) more grease on the outside and rub it in. Do this a couple of times in the first week or two and make extra efforts to drive down dusty roads... the coating of dust on the outside will help seal the gaiters even further. So, apart from the cutting, drilling and grinding, the process for installing gaiters on a D90 is about the same as it is for a Series LR or any other LR product. But, contrary to what I had been told, it *is* possible to fit gaiters onto a D90 and, IMHO, well worth the time and effort. Cheers, R. P. Reid From "John B. Friedman" Mon Jul 31 15:57:09 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 15:57:09 -0500 From: "John B. Friedman" Subject: Discovery at 2000 miles Anyone interested in milage and gas in Discovery? I just finished putting 2000 miles on mine, 1600 mile trip to Pennsylvania, mostly flat freeway but some mountains, 18% grades and some long ones. The car ran perfectly, no problems except the occasional strange epileptic right turn signal fast flashing in hot weather. I don't know if I have actual flashing bulbs then or not. But clearly the bulbs are not defective as they work the rest of the time. In steady freeway driving through Indiana and Ohio I began to get 22.4 at 65(no air on) and using cruise control. I was picking up almost a mile per gallon to a tankful as the car broke in. I noticed that this went down considerably with the air on, perhaps as much as 2-3 miles a gallon. Also that at 55-60 with no cruise I only got 21.9, so cruise definitely helps. City driving gives 12-13 MPG with air on. This driving done using plus grade, 89 octane(often the cheapest I could find) with no difference in performance between it and premium that I could sense. There was certainly no pinging on the long grades. The car is very slow up hills and went up 18% er in 2d gear. This may be its weight or just that it is still pretty tight. No oil leaks, and oil looked pretty clean. I did notice a lot of brake pad powder on the front wheels after 2000 miles and think the pads may either be seating in or will wear quickly. I did little braking and that gently, so think again it is the weight of the car. Be warned not to stuff anything under the passenger's seat, as the space is inviting but there is a relay there--perhaps in the amp--which can be moved out of its socket easily. From Leland J Roys Mon Jul 31 14:16:29 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 14:16:29 PDT From: Leland J Roys Subject: Trailer Light Trailer Light ------------- Starting last week, when I use the turn signal (left or right), the panel light with the trailer picture will flash along with the turn signal light. It will flash only 1 time, and then only the turn signal flashes. I do not have a trailer connected, and I checked all the turn signal lights and they are all OK. Does anybody know why this is happening (The truck is a 1994 Def-90 bought about 3 months ago). Leland J. Roys Cupertino, California '94 Defender 90 (Red) roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com From "Russell G. Dushin" Mon Jul 31 17:49:15 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 17:49:15 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: def110 sale As seen in yesterday's NY Times: Defender 110, 38K miles, $36,500, or was it the other way around.... something like that, anyway. Seen in the out of town addition. At least it wasn't outrageous. rgds, rd/nigel From Jimi Patel Mon Jul 31 15:09:37 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 15:09:37 -0700 From: Jimi Patel Subject: This fellow Sam has Rover spirit in him, would you agree ?? Status: RO ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- IN THE GOOD OLD DAYS GONE BY JPL as I once knew it Sam Brunstein At Jpl today, problem solving is complex. If something goes wrong with a piece of spacecraft hardware, the person noticing the problem writes a Problem/Failure Report (PFR). The seriousness of the problem is evaluated by several internal agencies. If the problem is significant the PFR is referred to a Material Review Board (MRB) for evaluation and a recommended solution. If the Project approves the MRB recommendation, the Cognizant Engineer fixes the problem. The phone woke me up. I looked at the clock -- 2 a.m. Not good. "Sam?" said the voice. "Uh" said I. "It's Tom at the Spacecraft Assembly Facility." "What's up, Tom?" "One of my guys bumped your antenna with his head, and he bent one of those little wires that stick out, bent it over about half-way. What should I do?" Now I was awake. "I don't know. I'll come and look." This spacecraft had two antennas. One was a low-gain that sprayed radio-waves in nearly all directions but the waves weren't very strong. The other antenna was the high-gain. It focused the radio-waves into a powerful beam. Both antennas were fastened to the body of the craft so they pointed where the spacecraft was pointed. Throughout the last half of the flight the high-gain antenna would point to the earth, and when the ship got to Mars it would provide the strong signal that allowed fast data transfer to earth. But during the first half of the flight the spaceship was at the wrong angle and only the wide-angle low- gain antenna could talk with the earth. Even in the last half of the mission, if the craft lost its pointing stabilization the high-gain antenna would point the wrong way. The low-gain antenna would be needed to receive commands to help get the ship out of trouble. My antenna was the low-gain antenna. It was important that it work right. This antenna was really mine, all the way down my gut. I dreamt it up, designed it, built it, tested it, and delivered it to the spacecraft assembly crew. For two years I lived with this baby every day, and I mean every day. Ten hours a day, seven days a week. For the last year of the development I had pieces of that antenna in my hand every day. I knew what it looked like, what it felt like, and what it smelled like. I knew this thing with its clothes off. It was MINE. I was its Cognizant Engineer, Bob Thomas was its midwife, and Bill Layman was its mother. job. I worked with the mission designers to develop the requirements for it. Then I designed it. There were countless hours of cut-and-try with Bob Thomas on the Mesa Antenna Range. We didn't use computers for this kind of design. My timeshare segment of the mainframe computer was 64 kilobits. Good for some stuff, but not for solving megapoint vector equations. Nowadays we would design it on a PC. The design led to a shining, hollow tube of aluminum, about four inches across and six feet long. The metal skin had to be very thin and lightweight, yet the shaft had to be almost perfectly round. Building that sucker was a real challenge, but we had a talented mechanical engineer. Bill Layman solved all the problems. By the time that antenna was ready to be delivered, there were three or four of us that had a very personal interest in its welfare. After I went through the clean-room rain dance, I ignored the Test Team and walked straight to the spacecraft and my antenna. At the top of the antenna there were sixteen thin aluminum wires about three inches long sticking straight out from the tube. These were needed to make the radio-waves go in exactly the right directions. One of them was bent down about 45 degrees. No catastrophe, but worrisome. If it broke off in space, would the radio waves go way off course? Not likely, but it would have some effect. If it broke off in space would it interfere with some other part of the ship? Maybe. Nobody knew for certain. We had a spare antenna. But putting a spare onto a spaceship that was halfway through testing is a big deal. A lot of stuff has to be unscrewed to get at things, and there is plenty of opportunity to damage more equipment. It's a risk. I got a magnifying glass and looked closely at the base of the bent wire. I didn't see any cracks. I reached out and bent it back where it belonged then looked again. Still no cracks. "Fly it," I said, and went home to bed. Slept like a log. They flew it. It worked. Mariner IV passed by Mars in July of 1965. It sent back 21 television pictures of the planet, using the high-gain antenna. During flight, the spacecraft did have problems with its attitude stabilization. The low-gain antenna was used to correct the problems. From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Mon Jul 31 15:08:20 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 15:08:20 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: D90 Gaiters R. Pierce Reid writes: >Start by slathering the leather pieces generously with axle grease, especially >on the inside (thr rough side). Work it in with your hands... saturate the >leather well. Then, go have a few beers and leave the project overnight so the >leather can soak up the grease. This is important as it helps waterproof the >leather and if the leather is not water resistant, it becomes (you guessed it) >water absorbant. You know what that will do... R. P., I enjoyed your novella on Rover gaiters. Since you said that real men don't read instructions, I'll throw yours away so that next timed I install gaiters they will be 'lost' :) Not to be picky, but isn't the leather supposed to be 'primed' with vaseline instead of axle grease? Did you by chance make a copy of the leather pattern before installing it (Several people on the net --especially New Zealanders and Australians where sheep outnumber women 100:1 -- expressed an interest in fabricating their own from leather and other readily available parts)? What is your opinion regarding the issue of gaiters actually contributing to the deterioration of swivel balls by retaining moisture and mud debris, etc (I favor gaiters myself, but..). Michael Carradine, Architect Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 .plan available _________________________________________________________________________ Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From LANROVEFN@aol.com Mon Jul 31 18:51:18 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 18:51:18 -0400 From: LANROVEFN@aol.com Subject: Land Rover Model Cars I attended a model car show in Parsippany NJ yesterday and was very disappointed at the lack of quality Land Rover models out there. It seemed there was everything but Land Rovers. I found an old Dinky 109 and a few Range Rovers that looked like they came out of the 5 & 10. However they did have an obscure replica of the Howmet Turbine car that cost $200. Thoughts and comments please. Mike Schmidt 94 Disco From jsavage@elephant.com (James Savage) Mon Jul 31 17:52:02 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 17:52:02 -0500 From: jsavage@elephant.com (James Savage) Subject: Electrical problem? I've been having what seems to be an electrical problem with my '90 County. My cruise control functions erradically. Half the time it works fine, the other half I am unable to get the cruise control main gateway to operate properly. When I depress the cruise control main gateway switch, the button does not illuminate and the cruise control is not operational. When I then switch off the gateway I get the "Service Engine" light on the dash. Any help would be greatly appreciated, James - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - James Savage Systems Integrator Pachyderm, LLC Phone: (414)784-2466 333 Bishops Way Suite 144 Fax: (414)784-8373 Brookfield, WI 53005 Email: jsavage@pchydrm.com Visit our Web site: http://www.pchydrm.com - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - = - From "Mark Talbot" Mon Jul 31 16:08:57 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 16:08:57 PDT From: "Mark Talbot" Subject: Re: LR ICON WWW site needed All, Having trouble with this icon even with UUCODE, anyone help me get it to a WEB SITE ? Mark From LANDROVER@delphi.com Mon Jul 31 19:34:49 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 19:34:49 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Discovery Door Locks Mark asks about locks... > Just bought a '95 Discovery and have a question about the door locks. > When I use the key or remote to unlock the doors, all five doors unlock. / > For me at work, this isn't a problem. If my wife take the Discovery to > class (gets out a 9:30 pm) and thinks someone is by the vehicle, all > five doors unlocking is not good. Am I missing something? How o I get > just the drivr's door to unlock? / Easy to fix. I'll trade you even - Your Disco for my '65 IIa SWB Station Wagon. One key for the drivers door, one key for the rear door, no key for the passengers door (the lock is on the inside). All the locks work fine. And none of those stinkin' electronic gizmo's to give you trouble! :) > thanks, > Mark Murphy > '95 white 5spd cloth Discovery - 5 days old, ~4600 lbs / Cheers Mike Loiodice '65 green 4spd IIa - 30 years old, 2900 lbs From JDolan2109@aol.com Mon Jul 31 19:51:55 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 19:51:55 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Long story made short? Tom Rowe Wrote: If you already are doing a valve job, then by all means make the conversion then. But even if you don't, I doubt that you would even notice it over the life of your car. And I thought LR's were immortal!! (Cars? Maybe he posted to the wrong list?) '''''''''''''''' Re: Pink Panthers: Call me a conservative but- I'd try Thompson's at first. Adequate, reliable and easy to service in the field. See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! From jory@org.org (jory bell) Mon Jul 31 17:33:59 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 17:33:59 -0700 From: jory@org.org (jory bell) Subject: Re: 5 speeds for LR Greg Hiner wrote: :Advance Adapters in the US 805 238-7000 fax 805 238-4201 imports an adapted :heavy duty Nissan 4 & 5 speed transmission from Mark's 4WD Adaptors in :Australia (03-793-3388) that is modified to bolt directly to the LR :transfer case. Bellhousings available for Holden 6 cylinder, Ford 6 :cylinder, Range Rover and Leyland V8s and Isuzu Diesels (as well as Nissan :diesels). At the time when I got the info (1994) there was no bellhousing :available for the 2.25. They were supposed to come out with one soon :however. Though the transmission bolts directly to the transfer case I do :believe that it is longer than the original 4 speed so you will need to :shift the engine forward. Thanks Greg! I called Advanced Adapters, and after first denying any knowledge of the 5-speed, they located a Mark's 4wd catalog and gave me minimal info. I ended up calling Mark's 4wd directly. They do not have a bell housing for the 2.25 liter engine, and according to the person I spoke with, they are not going to be producing one. They didn't know of anyone else who might procuce or sell such a beast (ie any 5-speed conversion to go with the original engine). I tried calling Roverworks (someone said thy had dome some LT77 conversions) and received no reply to my messages (they do mention in their outgoing message that you should be patient, but longer than a week?). I left a second message after 10 days, but am not holding my breath... Any other pointers to 5-speed conversions for a series vehicle, with 2.25 liter petrol engine? Preferrably one that doesn't require moving the engine forward (although cutting driveshafts is fine). Maybe I am just out of luck on this one... In any case, I am worknig towards repairing my current 4-speed gearbox (it had lost access to 3rd and 4th gears). My gearbox, xfer case, od, seatbase, etc... are all on my floor now. I noticed some oil in the bellhousing, which I think is coming from the engine, so I guess I'll be replacing the rear main seal on the engine (the current seal was from DAP and installed 5 years ago, FWIW). I guess I might as well fit a new clutch while I am in there. Fun, fun. -jory From "Tom Rowe" Mon Jul 31 20:12:45 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 20:12:45 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: D90 Gaiters Snip > instead of axle grease? Did you by chance make a copy of the leather pattern > before installing it (Several people on the net --especially New Zealanders > and Australians where sheep outnumber women 100:1 -- expressed an interest in > fabricating their own from leather and other readily available parts)? What Snip Michael, Are you, per chance, looking for the pattern? When I installed new ones on LR for a customer some years back, I had a pattern made at a leather shop while I was getting some more made (on the theory that one day I'd want to replace mine). It's a nice pattern, made from 1/16th inch plastic sheet, quite durable. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Mon Jul 31 18:12:49 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 18:12:49 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: USA LR Parts (Was: DAP experiences) Jimi Patel writes: >Can you please e-mail me DAP's phone number. I would like to convey the fellow >rover-net members ... Have you tried to get parts from England for 20/30 year [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >really doing us a service providing parts and technical information and what >nots. A small amount of dis-service ought not warrant a bad label on DAP. Agreed!! Here is DAP's phone as well as the other major L-Rover parts houses in the US that keep these aluminum workhorses on and off the road. AB Atlantic British Ltd. Ph. 800-533-2210 Orders PO Box 110 Ph. 518-664-6169 Mechanicville, NY 12118 Fax 518-664-6641 ABC Atlantic British Parts of California* PO Box 620 Ph. 916-778-3937 Lewiston, CA 96052 Fax 916-778-3937 BP British Pacific Ltd. Ph. 800-554-4133 Orders 3317 Burton Avenue Ph. 818-841-8945 Burbank, CA 91504 Fax 818-841-3825 DAP D.A.P. Enterprises, Inc* Ph. 802-885-6660 86 Clinton Street Fax 802-885-6662 Springfield, VT 05156 RN Rovers North, Inc Ph. 802-879-0032 Route 128 Fax 802-879-9152 Westford, VT 05494-9601 *Atantic British of California and D.A.P. Inc. are now affiliated, and have assimilated British Rovers formerly in Cavendish, VT. As you say, "Use them or lose them". Really! Michael Carradine, Architect Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 .plan available _________________________________________________________________________ Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From "Tom Rowe" Mon Jul 31 20:20:55 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 20:20:55 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Land Rover Model Cars Snip > replica of the Howmet Turbine car that cost $200. Thoughts and comments > please. Mike, That reminds me. The new Squadron Shop catalog lists two new Land Rover models for about $10 ea. They are in 1/76 scale I think. Minitank also produced a Land Rover some years back. Silly me, I never bought any even though I collected Minitanks as a kid. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Tom Rowe" Mon Jul 31 20:29:31 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 1995 20:29:31 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Long story made short? J. Dolan wrote: > Tom Rowe Wrote: > If you already are doing a valve job, then by all means make the conversion [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > And I thought LR's were immortal!! (Cars? Maybe he posted to the wrong list?) > '''''''''''''''' Jim, I at times refer to my LR as a car, truck, Rover, The Antichrist/Beast. Quite a few things, but NEVER a jeep. In case you were wondering. :-) Seriously though, since I suspect most of the people on this list own vehicles other than LR's, I was speaking generically. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.eduFrom Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Tue Jul 29 08:09:36 1986 Date: Tue, 29 Jul 86 08:09:36 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: D90 Gaiters -- How To I would like to add a few comments to the recent mail on this subject. First though, I should point out that I have never worked on one of these new-fangled coil sprung Landies, let alone a US spec version. 1) It is definitely "gaiters"; do "gaitors" bite? 2) The non-genuine gaiter kit that I fitted to my IIA came with instructions. These were quite helpful and stated that the leather should be coated in vaseline rather than grease. 3) I fitted my gaiters with the hub etc off the vehicle. This was enough of a struggle, whilst fitting on the vehicle is obviously possible it must be much more difficult. 4) The bolt pattern on the series swivel housing is asymetrical. Could this be the case with the 90/110? Consequently there is one right way of fitting and several wrong ways which result in poor alignment of the holes. On the Series kit The metal reatining band is fitted with the split at the bottom gaiter fits at the top. 5) In my view it would be a good idea to replace the zinc plated hose clips supplied with stainless items to avoid problems later. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW From a-robw@microsoft.com Mon Jul 31 17:11:00 1995 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 95 17:11:00 PDT From: a-robw@microsoft.com Subject: RE: Discovery at 2000 miles I'm still waiting to get that > 20 MPG in my Disco. I only have 500+ miles on it, though and the best I've seen so far is 15.8 (freeway @ 65-70 w/ auto trans and A/C). ---------- ||From: LRO-Owner ||To: Land-Rover-Owner [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] ||as the space is inviting but there is a relay there--perhaps in the ||amp--which can be moved out of its socket easily. What exactly are those widgets under the passenger seat. It looks like one is a relay, and the other looks like a computer/amp or somesuch. I was a bit bewildered at at how "cheap" the wiring was to the "amplifier-looking" box. Espcially how it was exposed to the rear passenger's feet. I'm planning to put it in a plastic wire-loom as soon as I get a chance to go to the autoparts store. The "black-tape" just doesn't look 'finished' Speaking of unidentified widgits, behind (to the rear of) the front axle on the right side (passenger side in the US) there's a drum shaped object about 4-6" in diameter and about 1-2" wide with a cable attached. The axis of this drum-shaped gizmo is parallel to the axle. What is it? Also I noticed that the back door didn't seem to be installed/aligned quite right. Well, if that's the worse thing I find, I can't complain too much. After it's fixed that is :-) Thanks all, -- Bob Watson (Still geting to know my) 95 Discovery From "R. Pierce Reid" 01 95 Aug EDT 1908 Date: 01 Aug 95 08:40:31 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid" Subject: Re: D90 Gaiters Michael: I did not retain a pattern... as I did not think I would write an article about this until I was about 80% done. Had I been thinking further ahead, I would have traced the metal brackets and the leather. oops. A friend of mine has aksed me to do his Disco, though, and I will trace the patterns when I do that. The specs should be identical. Also, it is possible that the OZ spec D90 is different from the NA Spec and that there *is* a gaiter kit for it. From what I understand, the D90 for the U.S. has a different front axle. As for the vaseline... that is another way to prime the leather, and it is a good one. I decided to let my gaiters sit for about 24 hours in a hot garage with a lot of grease on them. They were saturated. Either method should work fine. If you don;t want to leave it 24 hours... 90-weight should work well, followed by a liberal application of grease. I have heard theories about gaiters trapping moisture... but in my 30 years experience around Land Rovers, I have never seen a rusted out ball that I can attribute to a gaiter. Most of them that have gaiters installed and have *still* rusted have rusted because of water entering through other areas and eating the ball out from the inside (pooled under the oil inside the swivel ball.) That is not to say that, if the gaiter is not greased and sealed occasionally, or if it is allowed to get a hole (or installed wrong) it will *not* contribute to a rusty swivel ball... just that I have not seen it. Personally, I prefer gaiters. Cheers, R. P. Reid From "Tom Rowe" Tue Aug 1 07:55:24 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 07:55:24 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Gaiters/Gaitors Michael C. wrote: Snip > What I'd like to do is measure the pattern and make it available on the > Web for those do-it-your-selfers. It's not terribly complicated, really. > (Maybe you'd trace your pattern on a newspaper and send it to me?) Sure > BTW- Is it "gaiters" or "gaitors"?? Gaiters. I think putting gaitors on your swivel balls might be dangerous. Might loose a hand or arm you know. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" Tue Aug 1 09:05:00 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 09:05:00 -0400 From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" Subject: re: Discovery flashers (fast ones & trailers) A couple of times people have mentioned that their turn signals seem to flash very quickly when it is very hot. I had the same problem (but it is summer so I can't say if the heat is the dominating factor). The manual says that it is due to a bulb not working. The last time I saw this happen, I pulled over to check and sure enough, my left rear turn signal was not working. I then played with the socket a little and got it to work. If I pull the socket a little, I can get it to cut out again. I'll take a closer look this weekend and see if I can figure out which contact is loose. With respect to the trailer signal light going on once on a turn without a trailer, it is "documented" to do that as per the manual. It's either a design bug (dressed up feature) or more likely it lets you know if you have a problem with your trailer wiring. i.e. if you are pulling a trailer and it only flashes once then you are not wired correctly. Cheers, -Christian 95 Discovery From Roger Sinasohn Tue Aug 1 06:27:21 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 06:27:21 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: Re: newbie stupid questions > 1. if 500 D110 came over in '93, can anyone import a '93 from UK? Nope. These were specially done up for NADA (North Am. Dollar A...?) > 4. if SII were imported upto '68, why do I see '70 gas models here in US. 109"s came in through '67; 88"s until '73-74. > 1. Is the pickup bulkhead on a 109" structurally important? Can it be > removed to get a SW? No and yes. *BUT* as pickups are scarcer than sw's, I would recommend trading a pu for a sw if that's what you want. But you can carry more than 2-3 in a pickup, with side-facing seats in the back. > 3. At the SII top speed of 60mph (?) in OD, what is the rpm? At 3000rpm's in 4th-OD, I'm doing ~70mph. I've got the toro OD, though. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California From Roger Sinasohn Tue Aug 1 06:27:55 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 06:27:55 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: Re: Limericks Another one... I once had a tire on my bonnet, The subject of this little sonnet, but with a bounce and a hop, it flew over the top, so now the roof's got a tire upon it. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California From Roger Sinasohn Tue Aug 1 06:27:50 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 06:27:50 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: Re: Limericks and Clutch Push Rods On Tue, 25 Jul 1995, Russell G. Dushin wrote: If you did, can you measure it up for us? There's five or six of us out here wondering if our rods are long enough. Charlie Wright replied Uh-oh, I think I hear limmericks in the distance... And Trevor inspired... In measuring rods for their lengths, A Land Rover Owner's main strengths, is plenty of oil, pants that won't soil, and not being scared of a jinx. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California From Roger Sinasohn Tue Aug 1 06:27:45 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 06:27:45 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: 109" wanted My brother (the starving student) has caught the bug. He now wants a 109", preferably a 4-door. The problem is, he doesn't have a lot of money. He does, however, have tools and a good knowledge of car repair. So, if anyone knows of a 109" for sale cheap, (preferably in No. CA,) please let me know. Thanks! P.S. Mark Talbot - if you don't go for the one you mentioned, my brother might be interested. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California From "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@compuserve.com> 01 95 Aug EDT 1910 Date: 01 Aug 95 10:06:25 EDT From: "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@compuserve.com> Subject: Hubs --------------- Forwarded Message --------------- From elsmain!wmaloney@els004.attmail.com (William Maloney) Tue Aug 01 09:31:29 1995 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 1995 09:31:29 -0500 From: elsmain!wmaloney@els004.attmail.com (William Maloney) Subject: Something interesting Corey, Here's something I thought you might find interesting. Not funny, but interesting. Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ - IN THE GOOD OLD DAYS GONE BY JPL as I once knew it Sam Brunstein At Jpl today, problem solving is complex. If something goes wrong with a piece of spacecraft hardware, the person noticing the problem writes a Problem/Failure Report (PFR). The seriousness of the problem is evaluated by several internal agencies. If the problem is significant the PFR is referred to a Material Review Board (MRB) for evaluation and a recommended solution. If the Project approves the MRB recommendation, the Cognizant Engineer fixes the problem. The phone woke me up. I looked at the clock -- 2 a.m. Not good. "Sam?" said the voice. "Uh" said I. "It's Tom at the Spacecraft Assembly Facility." "What's up, Tom?" "One of my guys bumped your antenna with his head, and he bent one of those little wires that stick out, bent it over about half-way. What should I do?" Now I was awake. "I don't know. I'll come and look." This spacecraft had two antennas. One was a low-gain that sprayed radio-waves in nearly all directions but the waves weren't very strong. The other antenna was the high-gain. It focused the radio-waves into a powerful beam. Both antennas were fastened to the body of the craft so they pointed where the spacecraft was pointed. Throughout the last half of the flight the high-gain antenna would point to the earth, and when the ship got to Mars it would provide the strong signal that allowed fast data transfer to earth. But during the first half of the flight the spaceship was at the wrong angle and only the wide-angle low- gain antenna could talk with the earth. Even in the last half of the mission, if the craft lost its pointing stabilization the high-gain antenna would point the wrong way. The low-gain antenna would be needed to receive commands to help get the ship out of trouble. My antenna was the low-gain antenna. It was important that it work right. This antenna was really mine, all the way down my gut. I dreamt it up, designed it, built it, tested it, and delivered it to the spacecraft assembly crew. For two years I lived with this baby every day, and I mean every day. Ten hours a day, seven days a week. For the last year of the development I had pieces of that antenna in my hand every day. I knew what it looked like, what it felt like, and what it smelled like. I knew this thing with its clothes off. It was MINE. I was its Cognizant Engineer, Bob Thomas was its midwife, and Bill Layman was its mother. job. I worked with the mission designers to develop the requirements for it. Then I designed it. There were countless hours of cut-and-try with Bob Thomas on the Mesa Antenna Range. We didn't use computers for this kind of design. My timeshare segment of the mainframe computer was 64 kilobits. Good for some stuff, but not for solving megapoint vector equations. Nowadays we would design it on a PC. The design led to a shining, hollow tube of aluminum, about four inches across and six feet long. The metal skin had to be very thin and lightweight, yet the shaft had to be almost perfectly round. Building that sucker was a real challenge, but we had a talented mechanical engineer. Bill Layman solved all the problems. By the time that antenna was ready to be delivered, there were three or four of us that had a very personal interest in its welfare. After I went through the clean-room rain dance, I ignored the Test Team and walked straight to the spacecraft and my antenna. At the top of the antenna there were sixteen thin aluminum wires about three inches long sticking straight out from the tube. These were needed to make the radio-waves go in exactly the right directions. One of them was bent down about 45 degrees. No catastrophe, but worrisome. If it broke off in space, would the radio waves go way off course? Not likely, but it would have some effect. If it broke off in space would it interfere with some other part of the ship? Maybe. Nobody knew for certain. We had a spare antenna. But putting a spare onto a spaceship that was halfway through testing is a big deal. A lot of stuff has to be unscrewed to get at things, and there is plenty of opportunity to damage more equipment. It's a risk. I got a magnifying glass and looked closely at the base of the bent wire. I didn't see any cracks. I reached out and bent it back where it belonged then looked again. Still no cracks. "Fly it," I said, and went home to bed. Slept like a log. They flew it. It worked. Mariner IV passed by Mars in July of 1965. It sent back 21 television pictures of the planet, using the high-gain antenna. During flight, the spacecraft did have problems with its attitude stabilization. The low-gain antenna was used to correct the problems. From Hal Leininger Tue Aug 1 07:51:12 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 07:51:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Hal Leininger Subject: DAP I haven't had to buy parts for my '66 109 for about three years and the time has come. The last stuff came from DAP while still run by Al and I had no complaint whatsoever. The parts I bought from him were considerably cheaper than any other supplier. I assume that Al sold out and is no longer involved and that DAP prices have risen to be compareable with ABP.Last I heard ABP was no longer in buisness in Lewiston. Hoping someone will bring me up to date. I just got a full color catalog from LR Super market in the mail yesterday and though I haven't done more than flip the pages I am highly impressed. Anyone have a list of FAX numbers for UK suppliers? Anyone gotten into their Fairey O.D.? Mine was sucking oil in and now it's reversed flow. I tried venting the transfer case but I was probably to late and seal damage had already occurred. Wondering what potential damage to look for and the procedure for teardown. From "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 01 95 Aug EDT 1911 Date: 01 Aug 95 11:11:47 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Trailer Lights Leland... Probably your D90 was doing that all along and you didn't notice.. At least, it should have been. My D90 has been doing that since day One but it took me a week to notice. Iit is normal. At first, though, I must admit to having thought it was Sir Lucas visiting my new toy... When I have my trailer hooked up, it flashes all the time, BTW. FYI, I do not have the LR trailer harness installed, BTW. I installed a harness myself. Cheers, R. Pierce Reid From Russell U Wilson Tue Aug 1 11:24:29 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 11:24:29 -0400 (EDT) From: Russell U Wilson Subject: Head rebuild?? I just got a call from the machine shop that is doing the work on the pig's engine. 30 over for the cylinders and no damage to the head or valves. I had planned on redoing the head with the stellite valves, new cam bearings etc. The machine shop said that everthing "on top looks fine" should I go ahead and do the top end while the thing is in pieces or just leave well enough alone?? How much of a power increase can you expect from changing to the stellite valves?? thanks for any words of wisdom.. the pig shall fly again! Russ From "Guzelis.Pete" 1 1995 Aug U 1908 Date: 1 Aug 1995 08:54:24 U From: "Guzelis.Pete" Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Anyone out there know of a source (USA or elsewhere) that makes an air-bag compatible front receiver for a 94 Disco. I sure don't want to pay the L/R dealer package price of $2K (US) for a Warn winch, bull guard, mount system. I called Warn Winch directly and they told me that they do not make receivers for the Disco. Any input will be appreciated. I intend to mount the winch via the Warn Multi-Mount cradle so I can use the winch on either end of the vehicle or, when "on-road" remove competely. _______________________________________________________________________________ From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Tue Jul 29 15:39:25 1986 Date: Tue, 29 Jul 86 15:39:25 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Hubs The best bet would seem to be to dismantle the offending hub and see if you can work out what has gone wrong. In order to do this remove the screw. This will reveal a plastic loop compressed into the countersink for the screw. Usin a small screwdriver or similar hook the loop out. You should then see that the loop has a "tail" to it which disapears into the hub. This is the strip which holds the outer part of the hub on. Remove this strip by pulling at the loop. It is about 5"long. It will help if you push the hub gently towards the wheel against the pressure of the springs. Once the strip has been removed, the hub should simply pull off. Reassembly, as they say in the manuals, is the reverse of assembly... Describing the internal parts of the hub is beyond my powers of English. However, you will note that there is a sort of wire cage with three prongs. Each of these prongs must locate in one of the three recesses in the part of the hub still on the vehicle. That this has been wrongly assembled is a possible cause of your problem. I suggest that you also look for any obvious damage. Hope this helps. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Tue Aug 01 09:38:33 1995 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 95 09:38:33 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: def110 sale. FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: def110 sale. Russel writes: > As seen in yesterday's NY Times: > Defender 110, 38K miles, $36,500, > or was it the other way around.... > something like that, anyway. Seen in the out of town addition. > At least it wasn't outrageous. Sure it wasn't Defender $110,000? ;-) Dave (the prankster) B. #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From "Sean McInerney" 1 1995 Aug -0500 1911 Date: 1 Aug 1995 11:19:29 -0500 From: "Sean McInerney" Subject: LR Minibus? LR Minibus? Unfortunately, I did not speak to the individual, whom I am about to speak of, long enough to relate all the technical details, but the bare fact should be of interest.....Whilst driving my topless '63 88" one Saturday morning (a couple weeks ago), a 110 V8 County (not a conversion) appeared before me (not a hallucination). Luckily, we managed to stop next to each other at the next light to chat. The owner told me that it was a 1986 110 and had been legally imported as a minibus. My wheels have been turning ever since! Oh, by the way, this was in good ole' New Haven, CT.....There are, at least, four other SIIA 88" in the area....pretty surprising to me...maybe unremarkable to others. 110 V8 County...Hmmm.... Sean C. McInerney 1963 SIIa 88"- no top....no rain either 8*) "Friends call it 'The Beast'" From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Tue Aug 01 09:57:56 1995 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 95 09:57:56 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Land Rover spirit - Spaceship story. FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Land Rover spirit - Spaceship story. It's a shame they don't (can't) make space ships like Rovers, it may have gone like this; "Ring.. Ring" Hello... "Sam, we have a problem with the low gain antennae....." Sam: "Hell, yank one off one of the cars in the parking lot and slap it on! What on earth would you wake me up at.....you @$-!!" On the other hand... if "uncle Joe" had anything to do with it, we may STILL have men on the moon... as well as a nice memorial for them here on Earth. ;-) Cheers! #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From rparker@tiac.net (Randy Parker) Tue Aug 1 14:02:27 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 14:02:27 -0400 From: rparker@tiac.net (Randy Parker) Subject: RE: Discovery at 2000 miles At 05:11 PM 7/31/95 PDT, a-robw@microsoft.com wrote: >I'm still waiting to get that > 20 MPG in my Disco. I only have 500+ miles >on it, though and the best I've seen so far is 15.8 (freeway @ 65-70 w/ auto >trans and A/C). I believe the 20 MPG he reported was in manual (especially if you keep it between 2500-3000 rpm, or so I've heard). In the automatic you'll be hard pressed to break 16 and if you have a short commute, you'll be down around 12. >Also I noticed that the back door didn't seem to be installed/aligned quite >right. Mine had this as well...I tightened up the door latch some and it helped, but I had the dealer fix it for good at first service. -- RP --------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Randy Parker, NoteSystems, Brookline, MA (rparker@tiac.net) WWW Page: http://www.tiac.net/users/rparker/ "Government is not reason, it is not eloquence; it is force. Like fire, it is a dangerous servant and a fearsome master." -- George Washington --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Tue Aug 01 12:18:00 1995 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 95 12:18:00 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Springs for a LHD 88 petrol. Very Confusing!! FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Springs for a LHD 88 petrol. Very Confusing!! I need springs for a '71 series IIa 88. It's sagging to the right side. (Passenger side in the US.) I am also going to be adding a winch to the front, (Warn 8274) approx. 150 pounds? (70Kg) Can I, should I, use either 1-tonne springs from a 109? Or Diesel springs from a 88? Or Diesel springs from a 109? Or diesel springs from a 1-tonne 109? Or.... Also, the LR springs are different for left/right, what is the reason for this? (Maybe why my LR leans??) Should or can I use the same spring for left and right, and if so, which one should I use, the LR left? Or the LR right? If I just switched my existing springs from right to left/left to right, will it then lean to the left, of sit horizontally on a crowned road? I will be using the 1-tonne spring shackles for a slight lift. Anyone know how much arch the springs should have? And how to measure it? What are the best springs to use??? Please help!!! Thanks, Cheers, Chow, g'day mate...... #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Tue Jul 29 15:11:04 1986 Date: Tue, 29 Jul 86 15:11:04 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: Distributors - 4cyl This mail is prompted by the availability of Lucas Distributors from Paddock's (Matlock, UK +44 (0)1629 584499) at a good price (41.07). They are of a later pattern than that currently fitted to my '68 IIA, having a push on type vacuum advance tube. Does anybody know if I am likely to have problems with fitting such a later distributor? It should of course fit physically; my concerns centre around advance curves etc. My impression from looking through the parts catalogues for the IIA and III are that changes in the distributor fitted have resulted from advancements (if that is the word) in Lucas design. Any thoughts or experiences? Amusing(ish) anecdote. My wife (I am currently stuck at home with shingles) took the IIA to the local Land Rover dealer today for the track to be checked. Their computerised booking-in system needed to know what model, but wouldn't accept IIA. It had to be either a II or III! ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW From hiner@roadrunner.com (Greg Hiner) Tue Aug 1 17:49:09 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 1995 17:49:09 -0600 From: hiner@roadrunner.com (Greg Hiner) Subject: Land Rover Parts in the USA I don't know how valid this rumour is and pardon if it has already been mentioned as I haven't been able to pay much attention to this list lately but supposedly Land Rover North America is moving to become the sole provider of genuine parts in at least the USA. So that would put Rovers North and British Pacific out of the game at least as authorized dealers of parts. The parts business for America would be shifted to ten or so Land Rover Centers across the country. Up go the prices. I haven't talked to BP or RN about this myself but a friend of mind has. Let me know if anybody else gets any information on this or let me know if this is just old news. Best- Greg From LANDROVER@delphi.com Tue Aug 01 20:49:45 1995 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 1995 20:49:45 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Head rebuild?? Russell asks... > fine" should I go ahead and do the top end while the thing is in pieces > or just leave well enough alone?? How much of a power increase can you > expect from changing to the stellite valves?? / Probably no power increase.. However, the stellite valves should hold up better with unleaded petrol. Cheers Mike From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Tue Aug 1 19:11 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 95 19:11 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: Exhaust manifold Today, I found the exhaust leak in my petrol SIII four banger. The manifold has a crack in it. It is in the rearmost branch, nearest the firewall. The PO had told me he replaced it for the same reason in 1977. I am going to ask him where it cracked before, but further investigation seems to indicate that it is prone to cracking back there. The front branch gets plenty of cooling from the fan, but the rear branch has a heat shield around it. I can feel the difference in the radiated heat with my hand after shutting the engine off. Anyway, this seems like a good time to upgrade to a header. I read somewhere that a less restrictive muffler will do more for performance than a header. Will a header crack? Is it louder? James Howard 1972 SIII 88 "Ephraim" Flagstaff, Arizona, USA From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Wed Aug 2 12:02:38 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 12:02:38 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: LR Minibus? Sean asks: > LR Minibus? I dont know the significance of this question, but my stage 1 wagon (5dr) and most of the 110 5drs I've seen here in OZ are described on their compliance plates as "Landrover Omnibus". Most of these are the 10 seaters, but very few actually have the sideways facing "load-bay" seats. My hunch is that this was a ploy to avoid some of the more severe pollution control requirements. (my 12/82 LR must meet the same standards as a 6/76 passenger car.....) Does this have import implications to the US??? -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Wed Aug 2 12:25:02 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 12:25:02 +0930 From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Subject: RE: Down Under Clubs Mathew Holding said: >Tiffany seems to have stirred up a can of worms by suggesting that you all need >to join an Australian club. I never said that you NEEDED to join a club I was just letting people know that: a. we exist b. we are a Land Rover Only Club (for those that care); and c. we welcome anyone that is interested in Land Rovers and wants to keep track of what is happening in Australia. Sorry if I upset anybody (it certainly seems that way with all the abuse mail I've been getting!!!) :-( As for the person that suggested to me that we have a club membership fee rather than individuals (for overseas) we think that's great and would be interested in swapping magazines with any other clubs out there (not in Australia as we already swap magazines with them). Just send me your snail-mail addresses and we'll take it from there. Again, apologies to anyone that thinks I was trying the "Hard Sell" but we were just excited to be able to discuss Land Rovers on a global sense rather than just locally! TTFN :-) Tiffany Downing ******************************************** Co-ordinator, International Student Programs TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA Phone: (61 8) 226 3202 Fax: (61 8) 226 3655 E-Mail: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au ******************************************** From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Tue Aug 1 20:04:04 1995 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 95 20:04:04 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: D110 I have a line on a NAS Defender 110 which will be available shortly (not mine!). It will be consigned at LRMW. Mileage is VG at under 21K. Please do not crowd the digest flaming me for this *solicitation* It is simply provided as a heads up to the digest due to the considerable interest these vehicles generate when they reappear on the market. Anyone requiring information can email me. cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! `67 2A 88 5.0L Hybrid `67 2A 109 5.0L Hybrid `68 2B 110 F/C Diesel `70 P6B 3500S `90 Range Rover County `93 D110 `95 D90 From Dixon Kenner Wed Aug 2 01:08:58 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 01:08:58 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: newbie stupid questions On Tue, 1 Aug 1995, Roger Sinasohn wrote: > > 4. if SII were imported upto '68, why do I see '70 gas models here in US. > 109"s came in through '67; 88"s until '73-74. 109's into Canada later than this... From RICKCRIDER@aol.com Wed Aug 2 01:28:47 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 01:28:47 -0400 From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Subject: Selling 109" Repost and Clarification. All: In regards to my recent post about selling Hugo.....the 109".. : In the original posting I listed the North Carolina DMV Title number as the VIN. This was pointed out as incorrect by several of you.....thanks. I immediately reposted a correction with the correct VIN Number, which is 26408075C. ( Hugo is a ' 66 five door 109, very straight, road ready, and ......sorry, but, it's even clean.) If any of you have inquired and have not heard from me, please email me again. I inadvertantly dumped a session of incoming email, the contents of which were never known. Sorry for the confusion. Oh,....one more thing.....is it ok or politically incorrect..... newsgroup wise...... for an individual to advertise his Land Rover and/or parts for sale through the newsgroup? What are the thoughts on this? Cordially: Rick Crider Monroe NC (704)289-6303 ' 66 SIIA 109" 'Hugo' ' 73 SIFrom Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Wed Jul 30 08:21:43 1986 Date: Wed, 30 Jul 86 08:21:43 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Ready to alternate You could try an 18ACR. This gives an output of 45 amps as opposed to the 16 ACR's 35. It is a straight fit on the standard alternator mountings and, in the UK at least, costs little more than the 16 ACR. If necessary I can supply the part numbers etc. for the brackets needed to convert from dynamo to alternator. Did it myself last year. A 65 amp alternator is available as an option for the 90/110. Does anybody now the make, spec etc for this? ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW From Richard Jones Wed Aug 2 10:47:30 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 10:47:30 +0100 (BST) From: Richard Jones Subject: Re: LR ICON WWW site needed Mark Talbot writes: > Here's the ICON, if you get it on a WWW can you mail the dihgest as I'm > getting swamped with requests !!!! I UUENCODED it. Here are the URL's: http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/download.html or ftp://ftp.apricot.co.uk/pub/misc/landr.ico __ _ __ Apricot Computer Limited ' ) ) / 3500 Parkside Tel: (+44) 121 717 7171 /--' o _. /_ Birmingham Business Park Fax: (+44) 121 717 0123 / <_<_(__/ <_ BIRMINGHAM B37 7YS Richard Jones United Kingdom Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk From Easton Trevor Wed Aug 02 07:47:00 1995 Date: Wed, 02 Aug 95 07:47:00 DST From: Easton Trevor Subject: Gaiters Re Gaiters retaining water and other crud When I had my gaiters off the other day during a leak investigation (?) I found that everything inside was clean except for a small lump of oily debris lying in the very bottom of the gaiter, The balls were clean smooth and unmarked with a coating of oil all over. In fact the passenger side seal had been leaking slightly and the gaiter on that side had acted as the oil seal with about a quarter cup of oil inside it. Trevor Easton 62 SWB SW From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Wed Aug 2 08:59:19 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 95 08:59:19 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE Down Under Clubs I for one am interested in what happens "down under". Australia, and Australian Landrovers in particular, hold a fascination for me. I certainly didn't interpret Tiffany's mail as implying that anyone should join the club; I read it as an anouncement of the club's existence and willingness to take overseas members. I am still considering joining.... I would encourage anybody to post similar information in the future. Anyone know of a Kiwi L/R club? ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW From dmorris@med.unc.edu (Tony Morris) Wed Aug 2 08:14:40 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 95 08:14:40 EDT From: dmorris@med.unc.edu (Tony Morris) Subject: Hat's Off to LRODG Thank-you to all. So far all the problems I've had with my disco, windshield wipers stuck, rear door loose, signal light not working in hot weather, I've heard here first so had some idea what to do. Great Stuff!! Has anybody ever approached Landrover about having a representative on the net? They could sure learn a lot and maybe sometimes provide us with someuseful information. Tony Morris From helmuth.guss@balu.kfunigraz.ac.at (Helmuth Guss) Wed Aug 02 14:31:23 1995 Date: Wed, 02 Aug 1995 14:31:23 +0100 From: helmuth.guss@balu.kfunigraz.ac.at (Helmuth Guss) Subject: SIIA FC half-shaft Owning a SIIA FC 6cyl I would like to knew the differencs between the front half shafts of a SIIA/SIII bonet control LR and the FC ones. From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Wed Aug 2 08:40:32 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 95 08:40:32 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Springs for a LHD 88 petrol. Very Confusing!! The front spring on the driver's side of the vehicle is set higher than that on the passenger side. I understand that this is to take into account the weight of the driver. Note the use of the terms "driver" and "passenger"; this is from the L/R parts book and implies that the springs are swapped around for L/H drive. As far as fitting different springs is concerned there were several sets specified for an 88" petrol. The standard set is: Front driver's 241283 Front passenger's 242863 Rear 243124 Heavy duty rear springs: driver 241285 passenger 265989 Front "when hydraulic winch fitted" driver 265627 passenger 264563 Those specified for the hydraulic winch fitment are the same as the standard diesel fitting. I don't know what the weight of one of these winches is, but the fitting of "diesel" front springs when fitting a winch seems to be generally reccomended. Hope this helps. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW From Tom Stevenson Wed Aug 2 15:22:12 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 15:22:12 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Stevenson Subject: 1-ton shackles Watch out when fitting extended shackles to the front springs; they affect the steering and increase the propshaft angle at the front by tilting the diff nose down. Reduced UJ life should be expected (as I know from bitter experience!) Cheers! -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 From "Tom Rowe" Wed Aug 2 09:39:45 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 09:39:45 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Galvanizing Renewal for LR Just getting around to some old mail. Regarding touch-up on galvanized trim. There are several zinc spray paints on the market. I've used one by SOS Products that worked well. It acts very much in the way of galvanizing. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From Sanna@aol.com Wed Aug 2 10:53:16 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 10:53:16 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold >Today, I found the exhaust leak in my petrol SIII four banger. The manifold has a crack in it. >I read somewhere that a less restrictive muffler will do more for performance than a header. Will a header crack? Is it louder? Over the 25 years that I have been driving Lulubelle, I have cracked 3 exhaust manifolds, one time resulting in a burned exhaust valve, and that was just in the first 10 years of driving. About 1980 I replaced the cast metal manifold with a header from A-B. Since that time I have had no problems at all. The headers are not any louder, and supposedly they increase power, but I put them on so long ago that I don't remember a difference. The one shortcoming they are rumored to have is a lack of chimney heat to the carb, resulting in carb icing under certain conditions, however I haven't had a problem with this either. In short, it solved the problem. Tony - From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Wed Aug 02 08:11:29 1995 Date: Wed, 02 Aug 1995 08:11:29 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Gaiters Easton Trevor writes: >In fact the passenger side seal >had been leaking slightly and the gaiter on that side had acted as the oil >seal with about a quarter cup of oil inside it. How is that? The gaiter should not be retaining any liquid if installed with the seam facing down. -Michael Carradine cs@crl.com From edwardsj@ohsu.EDU (James Edwards) Wed Aug 2 08:37:30 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 95 08:37:30 PDT From: edwardsj@ohsu.EDU (James Edwards) Subject: 5 spd or automatic Discovery ?? It looks like I'll be able to buy a Discovery soon. Does any one have any thoughts on the relative merits of buying a 5 speed manual versus the automatic? Reliability, mileage, or other? Thanks Jim Edwards Former 1970 IIa 88, hopefully soon to be Disco owner jed@teleport.com From DANCSC@aol.com Wed Aug 2 11:42:14 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 11:42:14 -0400 From: DANCSC@aol.com Subject: Spencer says Michael is Pompous? In a message dated 95-07-29 04:34:52 EDT, you write: >well *Dad*, if you dont like the chattering (which incidentally, is why this >mailing list is in existance) you can unsubscribe, until then you can chatter >away *offline* with your good friend Al. >I will also add: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >spencer >------------------------------ Spence, I don't know you, and mean no offense, but this sounds a bit pompous as well. let's try to live and let live. and by the way... "Land Rover" have a sunny day! dan of rosa From Tony_Bonanno@nps.gov (Tony Bonanno) Wed Aug 2 10:51:51 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 10:51:51 -0400 From: Tony_Bonanno@nps.gov (Tony Bonanno) Subject: Springs for Series IIA David Brown asks about springs for his 71 IIA and questions why they are different for the driver and passenger sides. I don't know if all series Land Rovers had "handed" springs, but I know that most of the series IIA did. I believe the series III did also. The factory literature that I have read simply states that the driver's side springs have more camber to "compensate for the additional weight of the driver", etc. I will have to admit that this is one of the more obtuse examples of british engineering that I have ever encountered. Since the gas tank on most vehicles in this country are on the "passenger" side, and with the variables associated with vehicle loading, the bottom line is that almost every Land Rover in the US seems to be "leaning" to the right. I have always found this to be somewhat annoying with my IIA SWB. The good news is that there is absolutely no reason not to use the same spring on both sides. Rover's North actually told me recently that they have stopped selling "handed" pairs. They recommend the same spring part number for both sides (# 517588 for the rear which is the same part number as the "drivers" side rear). I tried it and it works! I put two #517588 springs on the back of my IIA SWB and what a difference. The vehicle sits LEVEL and of course the ride and handling and drive train slop are all much improved - the new bushings helped a lot too! I have not had a chance (or the money yet) to replace the front springs/bushings. However, when I do, I will use the same (driver's side) spring for both sides. Tony Bonanno (IIA SWB - a rolling restoration since new) Santa Fe, NM of vehicle loading Especially when you consider that the USA models are left hand drive and the cr and the gas tank (if you don't have the optional tank) is on the passenger side, so it is sort of a moot point. the most obtuse of the british logic From "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Wed Aug 2 13:12:43 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 13:12:43 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold Does anyone have information on the type of headers they are running, and if it does solve the manifold cracking problem...I just replaced mine with a new one, just before the thread started. thnx in advance steve _________________________________ |_______|_______|_______|_______| "Moose" | ____________ | | \\ '73 III 88" | / | \ | | \\ ________ | | | | | | \\ | | | \______|_____/ |______|_______\\___|________|__ |___________________|_______________|---------------\ | [] [] [] | | 0 |) | |--] | | _| / OOOOO | | OOOOO |__ |_|____I OO o o OO ___|_______________|___ OO o o OO ____| 0 OO o 0 o OO OO o 0 o OO OO o OO "Tread Lightly" OO o OO OOOOO OOOOO Florida Rover Canvas Steve Swiger swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu (813) 980-1013 (813) 253-0905 (Work) From wharton@mail.scra.org Wed Aug 02 13:57:52 1995 Date: Wed, 02 Aug 95 13:57:52 EST From: wharton@mail.scra.org Subject: Mike's for sale Mike Crider earlier asked if it was 'politically correct' to advertise LR's and LR parts for sale on the net... As hard as it gets trying to find these vehicles, and as many people who are mesmerized by the intrinsic beauty of LR's when they see one (and ask if there are others for sale), I think this is the perfect forum for passing on for-sale information. Certainly a non-LRO reading these emails would appreciate the opportunity of owning such a beast... rather than just reading information on how to fix one. It would also give us all a chance to keep up with current prices so none of us will go off and buy one of those $110K D90's... Regards to all - I thought I was the only one who was obsessed by these things. Skip Wharton wharton@scra.org From the Holy City of Charleston, SC USA From grea@net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) Wed Aug 2 11:08:37 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 95 11:08:37 PDT From: grea@net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) Subject: OD question When I bought my LR it had an OD installed already. Not knowing anything about OD's (or LRs for that matter) I didn't ask what type OD it was. Can someone help me identify what type it is? It's oil filling hole has a brass plug with a dipstick on it to check the level. I doesnt appear to have any markings on the casing. Also, I have been filling it with 90wt. Am I in trouble? G. From jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben) Wed Aug 2 14:00:17 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 95 14:00:17 EDT From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben) Subject: importing loopholes (?) Well, maybe ... On a related subject: Do you know of any Stage LR converted (factory OR otherwise) to alcohol or LPG ? :) What was the last year (before 93) that the 109" (110?) were imported to Canada? Any diesels ? Thanks you for your response. Jan From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Wed Aug 02 11:57:01 1995 Date: Wed, 02 Aug 95 11:57:01 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: THANK YOU!!! FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: THANK YOU!!! Thanks for the "springing" the information! Very "handy" information! Just one more question, if you know... Can I use the 1-tonne springs? And if so, what advantages/disadvantages are there with using them? Thanks, #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From DANCSC@aol.com Wed Aug 2 16:05:07 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 16:05:07 -0400 From: DANCSC@aol.com Subject: Series Motor Needed. California Hello, Dan of Rosa here, and I am currently on the Phone with Matt of Napa (a non-netted-Rover-owner) he owns a 60 series II and needs a motor. Preferably a IIa 2.25 version, but most imprtantly it must run, and strong would be nice. would be willing to pay up to 1500 bucks for the right motor, MAYBE trade a koenig winch as well.... his phone number in Napa is 707.254.8930, or since a usually ignore the LRO list, you could contact me directly at mendo_recce@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us and in the subject area, please note as matt of napa's motor, or something like that. also, I may be reached via phone at 1800.862.7520 monday thru friday 8 to 5. Thanks in advance, Dan of Rosa From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Wed Aug 2 13:10 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 95 13:10 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: exhaust manifold again Thanks to all of you who wrote back about my manifold problem. I called RN, who said they have seen a lot of cracked manifolds when the carb has been replaced, because some of them tend to run lean at full throttle (ie, on the interstate). I pulled the appropriate spark plug, and sure enough, it looked like it had been running lean. Now, I think this is a wimpy excuse. An exhaust manifold outta be able to take all sorts of abuse. Anyway, I looked at the price and the amount of work to switch to a header. Since I bought an overdrive the day before I found this problem, I am going to opt for the cheap and easy solution. This is, buy another origianl manifold, put the Zenith carb back on (since I have it), and worry about this later if I have to. James Howard jhoward@argus.lowell.edu 1972 SIII 88 "Ephraim" Flagstaff, Arizona, USA From "Russell G. Dushin" Wed Aug 2 17:21:45 1995 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 95 17:21:45 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: D110 (fwd) J.Papas dons his asbestos suit and sez: > I have a line on a NAS Defender 110 which will be available shortly (not mine!). It will be consigned at LRMW. Mileage is VG at under 21K. Please do not crowd the digest flaming me for this *solicitation* It is simply provided as a heads up to the digest due to the considerable interest these vehicles generate when they reappear on the market. Anyone requiring information can email me. > I have a line on a NAS Defender 110 which will be available shortly (not And the asking price is.........????????? Let's have it, rd/nigel From "Seymour, Gareth" Thu Aug 03 09:23:00 1995 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 95 09:23:00 PDT From: "Seymour, Gareth" Subject: Gorc homepage The new, still underconstruction, Glamorgan off road club home page is located at... http://theo.sihe.ac.uk/~bird/Home.html Any visitors welcome Gareth From Tom Stevenson Thu Aug 3 09:53:09 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 09:53:09 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Stevenson Subject: Re: 1-ton shackles > Tom, > Couldn't you avoid this by welding on front spring brackets of the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > But, it seems it would be crazy to put 1-ton springs on an 88 unless you > were always hauling around a ton or more of stone. I would think that extended front hangers would solve the problem, but it seems like a lot of effort! I put extended shackles on the rear springs with LWB dual rate springs, which have a lower (initial) rate than SWB rear springs in an attempt (fairly successful) to improve the ride. The longer shackles were used to restore the clearance between the axle and the bump stops. Cheers! -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 From helmuth.guss@balu.kfunigraz.ac.at (Helmuth Guss) Thu Aug 03 13:30:09 1995 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 1995 13:30:09 +0100 From: helmuth.guss@balu.kfunigraz.ac.at (Helmuth Guss) Subject: help on winches ? Does anybody knew what the pulling rate in ...lb/kg means ? Is there a standardized methode to test the pulling rate of a winch? How much can a winch of ...lb rate lift vertical? I find this declarations a little bit confusing. thank everybody for help Helmuth Guss Hauptstr.18 8435 Wagna Austria From ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Thu Aug 3 8:40:00 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 95 8:40:00 EDT From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Subject: RE: Heavy Duty Springs Dave Brown asks bout 1 ton(ne) springs on a Series... I have a friend in Florida who put a set of "heavy duty' springs on his IIA. I think he got them from Atlantic British. These had 13 vice 11 leaves, I think. I assume these are the same as from a 1 ton(ne) (or is it a 109?). Anyway, when he put the truck on the ground, he couldn't hook up his shocks because of the much-increased camber. Eventually the springs did settle a bit, and the shocks did connect, but just barely. He also related that the truck rode like the axle was connected directly to the frame. Dave, mail me privately if you'd like to get in touch with this guy. FWIW, I think that big tires, lifts, fancy wide wheels, etc. look a bit out of place on a LR. I'd prefer to leave that stuff to the drivers of Jap mini trucks. My opinion, no charge. Scott Fugate 1970 IIA 88 1989 RR [Buffer line for the real-time folks] From "Tom Rowe" Thu Aug 3 08:00:50 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 08:00:50 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: help on winches ? Helmuth Guss asks: > Does anybody knew what the pulling rate in ...lb/kg means ? > Is there a standardized methode to test the pulling rate of a winch? > How much can a winch of ...lb rate lift vertical? Snip The pulling rate (if you mean as in an 8000# winch) is what the winch will lift with a single line pull. At least usually. Some cheaper winches give the double line pull to make them seem stronger than they are. Doulbling the line with a snatch block (pulley) will double the pull and halve the speed. On a hard flat surface, assuming you had your vehicle anchored, you could pull more than an 8000# rolling load with an 8000# winch in single line mode. In a mud hole you may only be able to pull a 4000# load (or less). It all depends on how badly you're mired. The worse you are stuck, the less actual weight you can pull. The "rate" is actually measured in feet/minute, or meters/minute I guess, the capacity is the pound or kilogram rating. There are machines to measure the capacity, but they are specialized. Some offroad mags have used them to measure winch stall loads (the load it takes to stop the winch) and cable snapping loads. A good winch should stall (or snap a shear pin) before a cable in good repair will snap. A snapping cable is as effective as a broadsword in removing appendages. A good habit to get into is to place a sand bag or some like object on the cable when you're winching, it will slow the cable a little if it snaps. Also piaint the last 5-10 feet near the hook some bright color so that when you are running the cable back on you're alerted that the end is near so you don't wrap your arm around the drum. This might sound dumb, but I've seen people's reflexes cause them to hang on and try to stop the cable when the end suddenly appears. You can't. Hope this helps. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 03 95 Aug EDT 1909 Date: 03 Aug 95 09:35:44 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: advertising ettiquette for this list? >> Mike Sez: I don't think most people object to an individual posting an item for sale. I could not agree more. Though I certainly don't want this list to turn into a classified, I must admit to having benefitted tremendously by purchasing several items from list members. Perhaps we can put together a quick Advertising etiquette guideline to put in the FAQ? Here is what I might propose as a start: -- Please, no dealers or 'high volume' ad contributers. -- Please limit your ads to items of interest to the Land Rover community. -- Please include: description, location, price, etc ... be complete and *honest* in your description (if we can't be honest to each other here, who can we trust?) -- Please (responders) send notes back via e-mail, not posted to the list -- Please do not post "every day" until an item is sold. If it does not get snapped up with one posting, wait a week or so before trying again. If it does not sell a second time, try Hemmings, LRO, etc. These are just some thoughts from a person who welcomes ads from my fellow LR enthusiasts... perhaps there are some other ideas or suggestions that we can add to it before the Major decides whether something like this is ok for the FAQ. Of course, if the sentiment on the list is to make ads verboten... I'll live with that, too. Just my $0.02 Cheers, R. P.Reid From Roger Sinasohn Thu Aug 3 06:55:36 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 06:55:36 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: Re: Land Rover Model Cars Check out Lloyd Alison's web page on the subject. My link on my web page isn't working, but you can get from my page to the RoverWeb and thence to Lloyd's. My page is at http://www.crl.com/~sinasoh/ Hope this helps! --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California From "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 03 95 Aug EDT 1910 Date: 03 Aug 95 10:58:22 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Advertising on the List? >> Mike Sez: I don't think most people object to an individual posting an item for sale. I could not agree more. Though I certainly don't want this list to turn into a classified, I must admit to having benefitted tremendously by purchasing several items from list members. Perhaps we can put together a quick Advertising etiquette guideline to put in the FAQ? Here is what I might propose as a start: - -- Please, no dealers or 'high volume' ad contributers. - -- Please limit your ads to items of interest to the Land Rover community. - -- Please include: description, location, price, etc ... be complete and *honest* in your description (if we can't be honest to each other here, who can we trust?) - -- Please (responders) send notes back via e-mail, not posted to the list - -- Please do not post "every day" until an item is sold. If it does not get snapped up with one posting, wait a week or so before trying again. If it does not sell a second time, try Hemmings, LRO, etc. These are just some thoughts from a person who welcomes ads from my fellow LR enthusiasts... perhaps there are some other ideas or suggestions that we can add to it before the Major decides whether something like this is ok for the FAQ. Of course, if the sentiment on the list is to make ads verboten... I'll live with that, too. Just my $0.02 Cheers, R. P.Reid From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Thu Aug 03 07:48:18 1995 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 95 07:48:18 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Springs response... conclusions. FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Springs response... conclusions. Thanks to all who responded. Several have responded, and I find that the 1-ton(ne) springs OR the front springs from a 109 would be too heavy, and the ride and articulation would be unsatisfactory. I came to the same conclusion as your responses, that with the weight of the winch, the diesel springs for the 88 would be best. Also, what is recommended is using the same springs for left and right side. I think I'll order the "drivers" side springs, for that added support. Thanks again for the responses, I LOVE this list!! Some day, I'll be able to make significant contributions with advice. Dave (Taylor like, except I'm $pending $$$) Brown. P.S. This may be something for the FAQ? Anyone want to "spring" into action? #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Thu Aug 3 11:36:51 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 95 11:36:51 EDT From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Subject: American Source for Flaring Tool? Gang, Anybody out there have any technical information on the type of flare used on Series IIA - III metal brake lines? Are these the same flares standard in U.S.? In the May or June LRO magazine, it shows a flaring tool being use in a restoration, and cautions that there are male flares and female flares. I noticed that the cylinders have a seat that mates with a female flare, for instance. Does anybody know what the correct seating angle is? I need to get a tool for modifying a set of copper brake pipes I have in hand. The pipes were ordered from John Craddock for my 1970 IIA, specifying a dual line system. Evidently, in England dual line systems did not appear until late in the Series III run, when the change over to metrics had begun. On the pipe set I received, the connections to the brake cylinders are the correct imperial size, but the balance of the connections are metric. They are distinguished by different colors of dust covers on the connectors. I'm sorry to say that this distinction was lost on me until I had experienced a great deal of consternation from connections that wouldn't fit up. I doubt that Craddock would take the set back back now, as a couple of the lines are bent to hell and the threads on one end are stripped. Anyway, what I'd like to do is cut all the offending metric connectors off and replace with good old 3/8 - 24 connectors. Problem is I don't have a flaring tool or a source for the brass connections. Can anybody help? Scott Fugate 1970 IIA 1989 RR Extra line From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Thu Aug 3 08:57 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 95 08:57 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: [TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU: Re: Exhaust manifold] James Howard wrote: > Today, I found the exhaust leak in my petrol SIII four banger. The > manifold has a crack in it. I have found the SIII manifolds prone to cracking for three reasons; that's the way they are; using the late type gaskets (two hole metal exhaust only as opposed to the older fiber that span both manifolds) and not using a torque wrench on the fasteners. Snip > this seems like a good time to upgrade to a header. I have one so here goes: > I read somewhere that a less restrictive muffler will do more for performance than a header. Maybe, but you're not going to get alot out of a 2.25 anyway >Will a header crack? Mine hasn't (Clifford Reasearch, the only one I know of in the US for LR, sold by ABP, cheaper elsewhere I'm sure), *but*, they will rust through and they give off a *lot* of heat. You should get it coated to prevent rusting and reduce the heat output some. Jet Hot Coating charges $100-150 to aluminize it (I think that's the process) and they give a life time warranty. Good thing too, as I had mine done and it's starting to pit. I also wraped mine in header wrap to keep it from frying my starter and alternator. You can't connect to your intake so, depending on where you live, you may have problem's with carb icing in the winter, although I haven't in VT or WI (I'm using the Weber 4bbl with a different manifold anyway). You have to cut your front pipe and weld it to a cone shaped adapter, provided. You loose a little groound clearence under the exhaust, but it's minimal. >Is it louder? A header isn't, a less restrictive muffler probably would be. The moral of all this? I would stick to a LR manifold, use the old style gasket, torque the bolts to spec (you'll have to use a crowfoot wrench on some and a u-joint on others). And pray. Use NeverSeeze on both sides of the gaskets. Why do I have one? I bought it way back when. When I thought to get better performance. I use it now because of my intake manifold. I never had luck with blocking off the upper opening on the stock manifold, I tried brazeing, welding & bolting. A bolted-on plate worked the best, but the clearence isn't enough to put on a very thick one so it didn't last. I gave up and went back to the header. Good luck. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu Aug 03 09:04:29 1995 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 1995 09:04:29 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: advertising ettiquette? R. Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> writes: >Here is what I might propose as a start: -- Please, no dealers or 'high volume' ad contributers. -- Please limit your ads to items of interest to the Land Rover community. -- Please include: description, location, price, etc ... be complete and *honest* in your description (if we can't be honest to each other here, who can we trust?) -- Please (responders) send notes back via e-mail, not posted to the list -- Please do not post "every day" until an item is sold. If it does not get snapped up with one posting, wait a week or so before trying again. If it does not sell a second time, try Hemmings, LRO, etc. Especially since this is an international list, indicate the city and country where the item is located, and ALWAYS indicate price and currency. Without this information, there will just be a lot of frustrating email. Michael Carradine, Architect Carradine Studios, PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 _________________________________________________________________________ Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 3 95 Aug EDT 1909 Date: 3 Aug 95 9:23:31 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Holley 2-barrel on a 2.25? In my quest for Rover parts I have been trying to locate a used Pinto Weber carburetor. These are as scarce as hen's teeth... or so it seems. Has anyone ever attempted to use the alternate Holley 2-barrel that was fitted to the same Pinto engine that took the Weber? These seem to be more in supply than the other unit. Just a thought....I may try this one myself if I can get a sed one cheaply enough. -ajr From a-robw@microsoft.com Thu Aug 03 07:39:00 1995 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 95 07:39:00 PDT From: a-robw@microsoft.com Subject: RE: help on winches ? Right after I bought a Ramsey winch, I called the manufacturer to get this very information. They informed me that they have a test stand that measures the pull against a dynomometer under ideal (i.e. laboratory) conditions. Also, the published ratings are ALWAYs on the 1st layer of cable on the drum. In the manual that came with the winch, they also showed the ratings for each subsequent layer of cable as it spooled . Some of the lower capacity electric winch companies will list how they can pull an XXX lb ROLLING LOAD because the dead-lift capacity is so pathetic. If you've ever pushed your car, you can say you're capable of pushing a 3000 lb rolling load! In "real-life" however, I'd be impressed if your electric winch could do 80% of its advertised capability. On a vehicle, unless you've really wired it to power the winch (e.g. with dual MONSTER batteries, hi-output alternator, LARGE (and short) cables to the winch for both + and - leads , etc.) you'll be losing so much through cable resistence (which adds up under a 400amp load), battery voltage drop (because the alternator can't put out 400 amps) to ever see the rated pull. I've talked to some "serious" off-road types who DID wire their truck for the winch (as described above) and measured only 6000 lbs pull using a cable tensiometer from their 8000 lb. winch. I suspect that's one reason the manufacturer's suggest you get a winch capable of 1.5 times your vehicles gross weight. I think the best option is to have lots of cable and a snatch block for those really stuck trucks. ---------- From gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Thu Aug 3 11:02:29 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 11:02:29 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Whither side-specific springs I need a little advice: I am about to replace the rear springs on my 1973 Series III 88" hardtop Land-Rover (they're, like, flat, man). I have always wondered about the specific purpose of the side specific springs on Land-Rovers. I understand that the difference is in how arched they are but am not sure about that. Now a Land-Rover is presumably heavier on the right side, due to the fact that the drivetrain runs along that side and the fuel tank is also along that side. So is the stronger (more arched) spring the right one as one would suppose considering this weight difference? Or is is the left one, considering that that would be the low side of the road (due to crowning of the roads) in the British Isles and other countries where driving is on the left? In the first case, the need for the side-specific springs would be greater in the US due to the double whammy of the right-side weight bias' coincidence with the low side of the road's being also on the right. In the latter case, it would seem that the springs should be reversed or else both sides should have the same (stronger-side) springs. Over the years, I've seen Land-Rovers that sag to one side or the other. It seems to me that most (but not all) sagged to the right. That would probably suggest that the more strongly arched spring (if that is really the difference) should be on the right. I remember seeing a message about this the other day and thought I had saved it but now can't find it. So I'll appreciate any sage advice offered by those of you who've figured this out conclusively(?). TIA, P.S. To those on the main LRO list I appologize if this has been amply discussed in the last few days as I have not had time to read the digest for about a week due to the Paradise Lost trip (awesome!!). Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, Alta California Norte, USA Several old Land-Rovers and other semi-collectible vehicles (707)485-7220 Home; (707)463-4265 Work From gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Thu Aug 3 11:30:44 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 11:30:44 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: Whither side-specific springs Sure enough, I had no more than posted my question about the side-specific springs than I found a very good discussion in yesterdays digest by Tony Bonanno (I appologize again for not reading all the digests first). Tony concludes that using the driver's side spring on both sides is best (and apparently RN agrees). It sounds like it does make the Land-Rover sit level--at first. But I'm not convinced that this solution will be correct over the life of the springs. The driver's weight is minor (even my 230 lbs.) compared with the fuel tank, diffs, driveshafts, tranfer case, and battery all offset to the right. Again, what do you think? Thanks some more, Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, Alta California Norte, USA Several old Land-Rovers and other semi-collectible vehicles (707)485-7220 Home; (707)463-4265 Work From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Thu Aug 3 11:33:53 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 95 11:33:53 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: Holley 2-barrel on a 2.25? In message <199508031703.MAA09524@butler.uk.stratus.com> Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus writes: > In my quest for Rover parts I have been trying to locate a used > Pinto Weber carburetor. These are as scarce as hen's teeth... > or so it seems. ; > Has anyone ever attempted to use the alternate Holley 2-barrel that ; was fitted to the same Pinto engine that took the Weber? These seem to be > more in supply than the other unit. ; Most people I have talked to have not been overly happy going to a two barrel on a 2.25L engine. With a Pinto engine, you would need to play around with all the fuel & air jetting. You would be better off getting a carb specifically set up for the Land Rover engine. Also one that is not probably already worn out. You would never get a worn out carb to work properly. I would recommend a refurbished Zenith or Solex. If you have a right hand drive car, I still think a pair of 3/4 inch SUs on a TR3 intake manifold would do the trick very nicely, increasing power and petrol milage. The TR3 intake manifold lines up with the Land Rover's intake ports. The TR3's ex-tractor engine (with 87mm pistons) is about the same size as the LR engine, puts out more power and has much better milage. Hmm thats a thought, I wonder if anyone makes a belhousing adaptor to fit the TR2 through 4A engine to a Land Rover bellhousing. The TR3's engine is high torque and it is very rugged like a tractor engine should be. Who needs a Rover modified Buick engine when you could add a Fergason tractor engine? TeriAnn From "Soren Vels Christensen" Thu Aug 3 19:54:57 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 19:54:57 -0600 (CST) From: "Soren Vels Christensen" Subject: RE: Advertising on the List? Hi Why not a seperate mailing list working like the lro-digest, -except it could be published weekly or fortnightly depending on the volume of classified ads. Or even better: forsale@host.domain and wanted@host.domain. This would ofcourse mean extra work (and perhaps hardware) for either Bill or anyone else ready, willing and able to undertake this sort of task. A split digest could even reside on different machines, being maintained by different people. Just a thought. It might be worth to mention that i have a private VT320 account by modem. Otherwise i wouldn't suggest things like these ;-) cheers sv/aurens [waste] From Benjamin Allan Smith Thu Aug 03 12:28:52 1995 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 1995 12:28:52 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith Subject: Re: help on winches ? a-robw@microsoft.com wrote: [why 8000# stall winches stall before 8000# deleted] > I suspect that's one reason the manufacturer's suggest you get a winch > capable of 1.5 times your vehicles gross weight. The rule of thumb is 2.5 times the vehicle gross weight. This is partially because of electric contraints that were menioned. The other reason is that when you have a 3000lb vehicle well and truely bogged down, the force needed to extract the vehicle will be much more than the vehicle weight. -Benjamin Smith ---------------- Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil 1972 Land Rover Series III 88 [chaff for Majordomo] From srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Thu Aug 3 13:39:59 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 13:39:59 -0600 From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Subject: Ivory Soap in your toolbox?? Here's a little curiosity, that would be fun to discuss. A friend of mine recently told my wife that since I drive a 32+ year old Landrover that I should carry a bar of Ivory soap in my toolbox. Here's why: Recently on a long camping trip in the northern New Mexico desert (in a beat up chevy van) my friend and family were driving in a construction zone and somehow managed to puncture their fuel tank with a piece of gravel or other debris. Gasoline started pouring out on the road like crazy. They pulled over (miles from nowhere) wondering what to do. A local friendly rancher or somebody stopped, evaluated the problem and quickly came up with a solution. He asked for a bar of Ivory soap from their camping gear, broke off a piece, got it wet and soggy with canteen water and plugged up the hole in the tank. Much to everyone's amazement it held, stopped the leak, and allowed them to drive 50 miles or so to a town with a more permanant solution. It seems that I've heard something about this somewhere before. Does it work? What is the physics/chemistry of this? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ /==============\ | `63 | IIa | Stephen Brown |______|_______| Geomechanics Department, MS-0751 /___/^^^^^^\___\9 Sandia National Laboratories |oo|(@)##(@)|oo| Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185 | | [####] | | ======%%%%====== email: srbrown@sandia.gov {*}={&&}====={*} {*} {*} RockNet: http://sair019.energylan.sandia.gov:70 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From a-robw@microsoft.com Thu Aug 03 10:28:00 1995 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 95 10:28:00 PDT From: a-robw@microsoft.com Subject: Discovery Gift pack goodies I was rummaging through the gift pack that came with my new Disco and noticed that the "imported" Salmon Pate that came with my English Rover is all the way from Marysville, WA (a small town about 30 miles north of my house in Seattle, Washington). Talk about taking the long way! (no ants on it, though. :-) -- Bob Watson 95 Disco (750 miles and counting) From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Thu Aug 3 19:56:48 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 95 19:56:48 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: Antipodean Auxiliary Tanks On page 22 of the June issue of LRO there are two pictures of Brian Price's (Australia) '75 SIII 88". This clearly shows two fuel tank fillers: one in the normal right hand position and one in the same position on the left hand. According to the text this was fitted from new. All the auxiliary tanks that I have seen have been filled from under the left hand (passenger in UK) seat, as per the military spec and series Is. The auxiliary tanks listed in the L/R optional parts catalogue are the same. Does anyone know if the arrangement on Brian's Rover was generally available in Australia, or is it a one off? ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Thu Aug 3 19:51:52 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 95 19:51:52 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Whither side-specific springs As I indicated recently in a post concerning heavy duty springs, the L/R parts book refers to "drivers" and "passengers" side springs. This implies that the springs are fitted according to whether the vehicle is left or right hand drive. This tends to discount the theory that the springs are fitted to compensate for the weight of the transmission etc. being offset to the right. Interestingly, some of the early prototypes had a central driving position. I wonder how their springs were set? ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW From "Russell G. Dushin" Thu Aug 3 17:37:10 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 95 17:37:10 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Ivory Soap in your toolbox?? Ah, the ol' Ivory soap trick: > It seems that I've heard something about this somewhere before. Was a Down-Under trick, wasn't it? > Does it work? What is the physics/chemistry of this? Goopy-smeggy things fill holes. Goopy-smeggy things that don't dissolve in gasoline won't dissolve in gasoline. rd/nigel (who once fixed a leaking canoe with tree sap and a wad of crunched up vegitation 'cause soap wouldn't have worked) From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Thu Aug 3 15:41:29 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 15:41:29 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: help on winches ? > The other reason > is that when you have a 3000lb vehicle well and truely bogged down, the force > needed to extract the vehicle will be much more than the vehicle weight. > -Benjamin Smith The local classic example is the time that Michael Green, of West Coast British, went to Reno and came back with a helicopter to lift his Rover from the mud of the Black Rock "Desert." R, bg From Magnet Thu Aug 3 19:05:41 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 19:05:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Magnet Subject: LR on the Net Tony Morris wonders whether anyone officially connected with Land Rover subscribes to this mailing list. I can't answer that, but about a month ago I had an opportunity to chat with Alan Manessy, Managing Director of Land Rover Canada. In the course of a very interesting conversation, I mentioned that he ought to have one of his marketing or customer support people on this list. Alan seemed receptive to the idea, and I gave him the info on how to subscribe -- don't know whether any action was taken, though. In all my dealings with LRC I've found them to be a very helpful bunch, and enthusiastic about the cars they sell. WRT to the discontinuing of the Defender in Canada, two factors were cited: a new lot of emission regulations (actually, self-diagnostics, if I remember correctly) for 1996, and primarily the fact that they simply do not sell enough of them in Canada to warrant keeping them in stock. There was some mention of possibly bringing them in again for 1997. Cheers, -- Bill '59 Rover 90 ------ '87 Rover 825i -------- '93 Range Rover LWB * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Bill Daddis -- Aurora, Ontario, Canada -- magnet@io.org * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu Aug 03 17:49:04 1995 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 1995 17:49:04 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: LR on the Net >Tony Morris wonders whether anyone officially connected with Land Rover >subscribes to this mailing list. Probably. I'm wondering when Land Rover will have a WWW page, after all, Mercedes is already on at http://www.daimler-benz.com/ (not much, but a start...nice graphics too!) Michael Carradine, Architect Carradine Studios, PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 _________________________________________________________________________ Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From Lloyd Allison Fri Aug 4 11:07:53 1995 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 1995 11:07:53 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: manifolds, springs, clubs Cracking exhaust manifolds: from the mists of time I seem to recall something funny about not tightening the fixing bolts over tight, to allow the thing to expand / contract relative to the head ??? else you crack the manifold - does this ring any bells or is it an hallucination? Are there not different types of gasket arrangement and using the wrong one for your manifold also leads to cracking. springs - I put LWB StnWgn springs on a SWB rear once. They had relatively soft LWB springs with a great big helper leaf, sort of progressive rate. The result was a bit skitish when unladen but just right with a couple of jerry cans and other junk on board. Club lists: do any of the wwweb-ers (not webbers) think it worthwhile doing something "consistent" with online lists of L-R clubs? I have some misc' information in http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Clubs/index.html and it seems to me that other web pages have similar odd bits of information. This is bad from a computing point of view: overlapping, inconsistent views of the same underlying data. Since club details and esp' addresses may change, the lists must all be out of date to some extent. It would make much more sense to have one comprehensive list, as up to date as possible. It could then be linked to, or mirrored where ever. Lloyd From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri Aug 4 11:02:39 1995 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 1995 11:02:39 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Antipodean Auxiliary Tanks > On page 22 of the June issue of LRO there are two pictures of Brian Price's > (Australia) '75 SIII 88". This clearly shows two fuel tank fillers: one in > the normal right hand position and one in the same position on the left > hand. According to the text this was fitted from new. Well I talked to Brian this morning, and will see him on sunday's trip so I suppose we can check :-) (Brian is the newly elected president of the LRRSA) The milage reported in the article is out by a factor of 10, so the text may be a bit sus..... > Does anyone know if the arrangement on Brian's Rover was generally available > in Australia, or is it a one off? Well an awful lot of rovers have this arrangement (in some places fuel stops on main highways are further apart than the range with the std 10 gal tank) I *assume* that it is a factory fit, but will check. Certainly aftermarket tanks are/were available for both LHS and RHS fitment. In my IIa 109 I fitted a S/H RHS 15 gal tank in the LHS and just extended the filler pipe. Maybe Lloyd or someone else can answer more precisely cheers -- Daryl From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri Aug 4 11:11:42 1995 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 1995 11:11:42 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Ivory Soap in your toolbox?? > construction zone and somehow managed to puncture their fuel tank: Fixed with soap and.... > everyone's amazement it held, stopped the leak, and allowed them to > drive 50 miles or so to a town with a more permanant solution. Uumm strange I always thought of soap as a permanent solution...... The IIa had a soap fixed tank for ... no its simply too embarassing.. But I will admit to leaving the soap fix on my bikes fuel tank in place for 3 years... Down under the go is "Velvet" laundry soap, comes in one big block the size of 3 normal bars, for those Land-rover sized jobs :-) cheers -- Daryl From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Tue Aug 3 21:29:31 1993 Date: Tue, 3 Aug 1993 21:29:31 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Re: RR Handling >I'm not asking for much, I'd just like my Rangie to stop handling like >the Exxon Valdez. Can't comment on jacked up spings or Overfinch handling conversion (Also, what kind of RR do you have?)... There was a thread on loose steering not too long ago (prompted by me) My complaints were that the RR would shift around when on the highway. I changed the bushings, and that help a lot as well. The RR stopped changing lanes on its own. Then I noticed the steering was a bit sloppy. The car responded, but it seemed like a lot of play was needed to activate the car. As it turned out the ball joints were worn. I suggest you check the drop arm, drag link, and track link ball joints. You check this by having someone you trust turn the steering wheel while you lie down in front of the beast checking the ball joints. If you don't know what the ball joints are, they connect that bar in front of the front axle to the steering box and the passenger front wheel AND they connect the passenger side wheel to the bar behind the front axle. Now the steering is tight, but when the car goes over bumpy highway at a reasonable speed, the steering wheel feels like it's jumping. (Hard to explain) I don't think I'm loosing control, but I'm too scared to turn the wheel when that happens. I attribute this to the steering dampener. That thing costs $85 and I don't think I need it. Anyone have suggestions? 1. Am I right, is it that steering dampener? 2. Will it make that much difference if I change it? 3. Know where I can get it cheaper? kgb '89 RR My RR Graphic: ==- o o Hey, what do you think? P.S. On the thread of naming Rovers, I can't decide between: A) Buket o' bolts B) Rattle 'n' Hum C) Oil faithful D) The 4x4 Pinto E) Lucas my car slowly dies. (I Know, that's a bad one) ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Rate Page Works!!!! ********************************************************* From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri Aug 4 12:56:07 1995 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 1995 12:56:07 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: RR Jumpy steering wheel > Now the steering is tight, but when the car goes over bumpy highway at a > reasonable speed, the steering wheel feels like it's jumping. (Hard to > explain) I don't think I'm loosing control, but I'm too scared to turn the > wheel when that happens. I attribute this to the steering dampener. That > thing costs $85 and I don't think I need it. Anyone have suggestions? I'll get onto one of my favourite hobby horses again. If the steering feels like maybe the balance is out but "sharper" and induced by bumps, Check the swivel pin preload. A common problem with Land rovers and especially Range rovers is insufficient pre-load, Results in vehicles being prone to "head-shaking" (a bikers term, uumm wheel "shakes" but is self limiting) when you hit bumps or undulations. Check this first before shelling out for a new damper. cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Thu Aug 03 23:08:19 1995 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 95 23:08:19 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: info Does any one on the net have any direct ties to NASA please, I am doing some research and need some help Thank you all Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Thu Aug 3 22:00:01 1995 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 22:00:01 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: 4-speed / 5-speed / LROI info! / Midaltantic Rovers 1. I finally found out what was wrong with my gearbox. After pulling it, I could still not figure it out. Everything seemed to work fine on my living-space floor. I attached an electric motor to the input in order to do some dynamic testing. Lo and behold, it refused to go into 3rd or 4th! However, I was still stumped as to the cause. Finally, I pulled it apart, and found that one of the 3-4 syncro spring clips was cracked... enough to keep it from operating (especially when spinning) but when I poked and prodded them insitu they appeared to be fine/intact. It seems that the centripetal force of spinning made the crack separate, thereby making the 3-4 syncro not function. So I ordered the new springs (78 cents each)... and a clutch, and a pressure plate, and a rear main seal, &c (while I am in there I might as well...) 2. No progress on 5-speed conversions. I'll be putting the 4-speed back in, but I am still determined to get the story on 5-speeds for series with original engines. Although several sources (web, individual email, &c.) mentioned David McNamara (the oz diff dude) as a source of the Nissan 5-speed... he actually is just 10 miles from Mark's 4wd, and referred me there. He is about to ship some axleFrom i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Fri Aug 4 10:07:32 1995 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 95 10:07:32 BST From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Subject: Brake Judder no more Yippee! I've fixed my brake judder problem. Put on new rear shoes and cylinders (and the obligatory few pipes) and it seems to have solved the problem. So it's Bonnie Scotland, here we come. That's assuming that my leaky clutch and intermittently dodgy alternator hold out. I'm off tomorrow, so see you in three weeks. Ian From Tom Stevenson Fri Aug 4 10:25:28 1995 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 1995 10:25:28 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Stevenson Subject: 5 speed box Jory Didn't Santana make a 5 speed box for their Series III's? I think they also had a SIII with disc brakes on the front axle. -- Tom Stevenso