From Andrew Grafton Fri Jun 30 9:57:08 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 95 9:57:08 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Piston Rings Spare Due to a mishap we have had to buy a set of rings for one piston, of which we have used one. Thus the following are available if anyone needs them now or in the future; To fit 2286 diesel, 40 thou oversize pistons; Top ring NOT second ring down (we used it) Third ring Fourth (scraper/oil ctl) ring We couldn't buy just one ring. The others are going for the cost of the postage + beer money as they are useless to us. Anyone need one or all of 'em? All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From Mark Perry Fri Jun 30 04:18:46 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 04:18:46 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry Subject: models The ESCI (italian) kits - at least the ones I have - are 1/24 Range Rover two-door (early-ish, with the vertical slotted grille) very nice kit with nice details, except I think the tires look a bit undersize and you have to melt the little stub axles ends to get the hubs on, if I recall correctly, and FJ-40 Toyota Land Cruiser, canvas top (unbuilt). I don't know if these are still available, or if they had any other 4x4 or LR models in this series. Mark Perry Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop "Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire." From Tom Stevenson Fri Jun 30 10:19:52 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 10:19:52 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Stevenson Subject: Engine support Support the engine by jacking it up a bit and inserting a 1" wooden spacer between the engine flywheel cover and the crossmember before removing the gearbox. Watch out- the gearbox is bloody heavy. Good luck! -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 From Charlie Wright Fri Jun 30 12:13:26 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:13:26 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Heat and Turbulence On Thu, 29 Jun 1995, Alexander P. Grice wrote: "company's" jeep.) At the base of the intake manifold where the fuel-air mix would first hit, there were eight or ten "fingers" cast in place, kinda the diameter of a 16 penny nail, though only about an inch tall. Seemed like a great idea - introduce heat and turbulence into the fuel vapor flow.... This actually seems a bit odd to me... from a passing experience with race-tuned BMW engines. The obsession there is porting and flowing. Take the carb/manifold/head junctions and make them as smooth as a baby's bottom. Polish everything and re-shape all the joints to remove any corners or edges... Get the fluid dynamics as efficient as possible to really get that flow flowing. Now perhaps I've answered my own conundrum here. I suppose you are not worried about restricting the flow, just improving the completeness/efficiency of burning. We were trying to get the mass flow to maximum in the name of horsepower. Still, it stands to reason that while warming the mixture would be beneficial, turbulence would slow the flow. I would expect a decrease in performance for the increase in efficiency (the usual rule). I would alternatively think that a properly set-up carb with a nicely flowed intake would achieve a better power to efficiency balance... and more all 'round satisfaction. my $.02 Charlie From Charlie Wright Fri Jun 30 12:27:52 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:27:52 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Static Coolant Loss There's always checking the radiator cap. Was it tight? Is the rubber seal any good? Has the weather been warm. You could have leakage through evaporation. I would think the head removal excessive. Try draining the sump, not pulling it. After sitting for two months, the water (if there is any) will be at the bottom. If you really fear water in pistons, rather than pulling the head, try taking out the spark plugs. Obiously look for rust, but turn it over with the hand crank and see if you get little fountains (it does turn over, yes?) This would be _bad_. Hope that's of some use. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Fri Jun 30 08:14:55 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 08:14:55 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Clanking Continues Ok folks, I need some help again. I've replaced the missing studs from the exhaust manifold and removed and replaced the broken studs from the manifold to head connection, but the rattle is still there. Perhaps even worse. Engine idles and revs fine while at a full stop. When I accelerate, in any gear, I get this loud clanking or rattling sound coming from the back of the engine. Clutch seems to be acting funny too. Before I start to replace the clutch, are these sounds consistent with oncoming clutch failure? Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From Charlie Wright Fri Jun 30 14:08:58 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 14:08:58 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Vacuum options A few of us have been swatting this around, I'm looking for others' experience. Converting a 109 _Diesel_ to servo assisted brakes (without going to a Perkins engine with vacuum pump) is a pig. There is the bizarre flap-in-the-intake that chokes your motor, improves your smoke to diesel ratio, and doesn't work well option that Rover themselves used. I don't like it. This is so inefficient it requires vacuum reservoirs dotted around the vehicle... Pump is the best answer, but where? On some of the later vehicles they re-cast the timing cover to have a bracket for a pump in the fan-belt circuit. On an older model, there are few good anchor points for this kind of thing. Thoughts so far (mine and others). -Remove timing cover and manufacture a tidy bracket. -Electric? vacuum pump. -Vacuum pump powered off compressor (this is odd?) -Rumored FORD diesel had Lucus alternator which had a built-in vacuum-pump (actually part of the alternator casing)? Confirm? Any ideas, solutions, or comments gratefully digested. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox) Fri Jun 30 09:51:03 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 09:51:03 +0000 From: gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox) Subject: 101 for sale? Paul will probably kill me for letting this out, but he has a 101 which for the right price he may let go. ca$18000. She's complete but ????. The man was planning on motorhoming her but still hasn't got around to it. GS model by the way. Anyway, Paul Safari Components. Queenston, ON (Near Niagara Falls) 905 262-4448 P.S. Don't tell him who told you. Built for comfort and speed......NOT!!!! BUILT TO LAST... From gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox) Fri Jun 30 09:50:51 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 09:50:51 +0000 From: gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox) Subject: Defender in ca Sorry to bore you all, but this is mainly a colonial question. Does anyone know why the D90 will no longer be sold in Canada? I was planning on looking into one in a couple of years, but now what. And what about buying stateside? Also for any of you LRNA types, why is a real work horse only sold at high end, snobby, full of themselves BMW, Jag dealerships? While I'm at it, I've heard several not so flattering comments about the D90, I'm just wondering if these are true or not, Do they have a problem staying in gear? A salesman was telling me that his popped out of gear while climbing a hill. Also, I understand that the low range is vacuum driven(may be wrong) and that while backing down a hill there isn't enough vacuum to maintain and then pop....what a ride. Just a thought. Built for comfort and speed......NOT!!!! BUILT TO LAST... From "Jeff Young" Fri Jun 30 10:40:46 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 10:40:46 -0400 From: "Jeff Young" Subject: Re: Stage ONE from reading the taylor books, i thought that the stage vehicles refer to 109's or 110's that had v-8 engines. these made their first appearances in the mid 70's? i also think that they were introduced after the series vehicles. Jeff Young young@mci.net From Jeff Gauvin Fri Jun 30 8:58:54 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 95 8:58:54 MDT From: Jeff Gauvin Subject: RE: D90 Q&A >From: kessels.bill=40ott01=40c14a#%forwarder@ey.geis.com >David Rosenbaum writes: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] >are asking for trouble putting something in which looks "high security"--they >will just take a crowbar to it. The mechanic at the Denver (CO) Pioneer Center Land Rover has one in his D90. It looked great; in fact I plan on putting one in mine. It certainly offers more security than the stock "low security" cubby which doesn't even require any tools to break into (while I haven't tried, it seems like a good solid pull on the lid should pop the thing right open). >>Suggestions for: extra gas can? bicycle carrier? mounting or storing a >hi-lift jack? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >jack and a fire extinguisher (see the June Issue of LROI-they put one in their >D90) I use the Land Rover (Allsop?) hitch mounted bike rack. I does compromise the angle of departure so I wouldn't recommend taking it off-road, but it is extremely easy to use and very solid. >>Experience with the optional hard-top? >I have the plastic hard top which works well in the winter, cuts down [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >would be a few things I'd buy first with the CDN $4500 they charge for it....a >brush bar....a winch.... I too have the fiberglass hardtop. Looks great, much quieter, nearly leak-free. Mine came with the vehicle (dealer installed) and I haven't taken it off yet. Looks like it would take two people about an hour to remove, but about 2-3 times as long to reinstall (realign & sealing). For me, the hardtop was a requirement. I live in a city and the hardtop adds a lot of security; my D90 is probably as secure as any car. I also use my D90 as a "daily driver" so I appreciate the quieter ride. And finally, with fewer drafts the heater should be better able to keep me warm in the cold Colorado winters. Time will tell how well it holds up; I've only had my D90 for 3 months. >Bill Kessels >94 D90 >kesselsb@ey.geis.com -- Jeffrey J. Gauvin email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com Symbios Logic Inc. Voice: 719-573-3563 1635 Aeroplaza Dr. FAX: 719-573-3824 Colorado Springs, CO 80916 94 D90 Hardtop From vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Fri Jun 30 17:31:05 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 17:31:05 +0200 From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Subject: Re: Vacuum options >Pump is the best answer, but where? >-Rumored FORD diesel had Lucus alternator which had a built-in > vacuum-pump (actually part of the alternator casing)? Confirm? * My brother owns a Mitsubishi 4 x 4 Pajero TDI, I think a 1987 model or thereabout. On this particular car, a vacuum pump for servo assisted brakes has been fitted to the rear end of the alternator. (I know, because the alternator had to be replaced at some time). I 'm not sure if it will fit a LR. Mitsubishi parts are, in my opinion, rather expensive, compared to the cost of LR parts... Hope this has been of interest to you. Greetings Bert Palte From rmodica@east.pima.edu Fri Jun 30 09:06:54 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 09:06:54 MST From: rmodica@east.pima.edu Subject: Roaring Disco Bob Jameson writes about a roaring noise from his gas auto Disco. I also get a very loud roaring from my gas 5spd the first mile or so. Sounds like the engine wants to take flight. It disappears after a bit. There seems to be no correlation between engine temperature or outside temperature -- it roars at 35 degrees F and 108 degrees F. Once in a great while the roar is completely gone. Haven't had the 15,000 service yet (I've got to drive 120 miles to the nearest dealer in Scottsdale AZ). I need a new windshield for my Disco -- AZ DOT gravel trucks sprayed loose gravel all over and chipped it last July when I had only 900 miles on it. It has taken almost a year to get them to admit it was their fault and agree to replace the glass. Called the local glass shop and had them order a new windshield and you guessed it, I go to my 8AM appointment today and they ordered a Range Rover glass. After a series of "Who makes it?" questions and looking in parts books "If it's not in this book they don't make it!" they finally thought they better "call me when they find out something". While I was there I caught a glimpse of the Range Rover glass order. List price was about $850 -- net price was about $250. Talk about a markup!! Rob Modica '51 SI 80" '60 109" Safari '94 Disco 5spd Tucson, AZ From David John Place Fri Jun 30 12:52:06 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:52:06 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Static Coolant Loss You can usually find internal leaks to the block by looking at the oil If it looks like milk you are in trouble. You can usually see little streaks of white if the leak is only small. You can also see if the oil level is going up rather than down. This take a significant amount of water however and the oil would look white. Check the core of you heater they are often the cause of the problem and you would never see it. In fact it is not a bad idea to run the heater once in a while just to prevent the core getting rotted out. If all else fails get a rad pressure test and see if it holds a pressure. You could have a bad cap that is letting liquid escape out the overflow or just gassing to atmosphere when the vehicle runs etc. Dave VE4PN From David John Place Fri Jun 30 12:56:56 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:56:56 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Heat and Turbulence I wonder if you could use the old stock trick of passing the gas through a tin of dry ice to cool the liquid before you injected it instead of getting turbulence. I have never tried it but my street racing gang of thirty years ago seemed to think it gave that little extra to win. Dave VE4PN From carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) Fri Jun 30 11:17:46 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 11:17:46 -0700 From: carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) Subject: Sealing Rocker Cover Gasket? Greetings, LROs, I'm fitting a new rocker cover gasket to my 2.25 Petrol IIa. It's a cork unit from Rovers North with peel-and-stick on one side. Am I correct to think the sticky side goes toward the cover not the head? Should I use a gasket seal compound or put it on dry? Many Thanks, CJC From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Fri Jun 30 14:51:17 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 14:51:17 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Coolant Loss You can also check the coolant that remains for signs of oil...indicating a blown head gasket. In that case you should replace all rubber cooling hoses before you go anywhere. Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Fri Jun 30 14:54:22 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 14:54:22 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Re: Sealing Rocker Cover Gasket? >I'm fitting a new rocker cover gasket to my 2.25 Petrol IIa. It's a cork >unit from Rovers North with peel-and-stick on one side. Am I correct to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >think the sticky side goes toward the cover not the head? >Should I use a gasket seal compound or put it on dry? Just installed one myself...the sticky side does go on the cover, not the head. Don't use any sealant or you'll have to replace the gasket everytime you check the tappets...making Rovers North richer or course. Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From JFisk1120@aol.com Fri Jun 30 15:27:02 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 15:27:02 -0400 From: JFisk1120@aol.com Subject: Triple C Information I just received my latest Triple C Motor Accessories Catalogue in the mail today. Their numbers are as follows: Phone Orders: (408) 942-5485 Hours 8:30 AM to 6:00 PM PST Monday through Friday 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM PST Saturday Fax Order Line: (408) 942-5582 Open 24 Hours Jan Fisk Springfield, Missouri From Andy Dingley Fri Jun 30 21:08:33 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 95 21:08:33 From: Andy Dingley Subject: Rangie fuel pumps Who made the vertical fuel pump used on an '85 Rangie (Stromberg carbs)? I have two bust V8s outside; my Rangie with the stuck diff lock, and a friend's V8 lightweight with a dead SU fuel pump. Looking at the manual, I could see that Rangies have a "vertical tin can" pump which is obviously not the traditional unreliable SU, but I presumed it was an SU copy of the Facet design. Having been bitten by SUs in the past, I wouldn't be averse to getting rid of it (and any Lucas electrics while I'm at it). My plan was to move the later "Facet clone" SU from the Rangie, discard the nasty old horizontal SU, and buy a new Facet for the Rangie. Taking the pump off was easy enough; do the requisite amount of cursing at the nuts, then just lever the rubber bobbins apart with a 3' crowbar 8-) The strange thing was that when I had the pump off, it turns out to be a genuine Facet. Is this original, or has it already been changed in the past ? I guess the original plan still stands, but I do feel I'm now replacing something that maybe didn't need it after all... What's a good pump for a Rangie ? Is a Solid State big enough, or should I go for a Silver Top ? -- Andy Dingley dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk And the Whale asked, "Do all oceans have walls ?" From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Fri Jun 30 19:50:25 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 19:50:25 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: What to do, what to do... The studio just called. They want my Rover for filming next weekend; as last year, John Rhys-Davies will again be narrating segments to appear on TLC's "Archaeology" series (and the Rover gets paid handsomely!). The problem? We've schedule a work weekend at Penlan Farm to rebuild part of the trials course that was wiped out by the loggers. I was up there a month ago, and I can assure all those attending the Mid-Atlantic Rally that the mud pit Mike built IS GOING TO SNARE VEHICLES! Last fall, it had been dry for months, so the mud was minimal. A month ago, it was a boot-sucking quagmire, and after this week's floods, *I challenge you* to get through it! So what should it be...go for the minutes of fame on international TV, or go rebuild the trials course? *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From "thomas r. coron" Fri Jun 30 21:37:28 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 21:37:28 EDT From: "thomas r. coron" Subject: Sighting The latest Outback Steak House has a few seconds of what I believe was a IIa 88. Their previous commercial showed 2 Aussies getting out of an 88 in the desert, but for only a fraction of a second. I know that several of you will be able to give a much more specific description of the latest one, probably including the serial number range, but I just couldn't wait any longer. Saw part of the ad yesterday, and have been waiting for a repeat so I can get a better look and be more specific, but just couldn't wait any longer. ;-) Tom Coron tcoron@s850.mwc.edu King George,Va. 703-775-4575 '66' IIA 88 RHD From Jim Russell Fri Jun 30 19:04:18 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 19:04:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Russell Subject: Hylomar Alan Richer: Hylomar is readily available in the U.S. from, I believe, Locktite in tubes and spray cans. Check out the rack of sealants and stuff at the local parts emporium and you should find it. If you don't, ask 'em about the stuff. Most parts stores carry it. I love the stuff but not everyone is as sold as I am on it. Jim Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Jun 30 19:04:11 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 19:04:11 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: What to do, what to do... >The studio just called. They want my Rover for filming next weekend; as last year, John Rhys-Davies will again be narrating segments to appear on TLC's "Archaeology" series (and the Rover gets paid handsomely!). >So what should it be...go for the minutes of fame on international TV, or go rebuild the trials course? First work, then play! Actually, it's better for the LR marque to have a representative being admired by the young generation (as well as us older fossils!), besides, it sounds like your mud-hole is in pretty good shape already. Just think, if the LR is replaced by a Jeep or some other lesser vehicle on the show ...Yipes! Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 30 95 Jun EDT 1922 Date: 30 Jun 95 22:28:19 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Misc. Thorsten.... Wilkommen. I have fond memories of holidays in Mainz with friends at the University in late 70's early 80's. with lots of good wine. A ser 2/3 hard top will fit a l/w easily. The top is actually about 20 mm wider than the l/w but at the door the sides will pull in with no problem and at the rear there is a slight overhang. The rover co actually fit the hard top to many of the military vehicles without any alterations. A source for a cheap hard top is Martin at Landrover replacements, tel (44) 1924 430006. tell him I gave you his name and you are a poor student etc. The side filler conversion is simple, either use the standard 2/3 tank or add a filler pipe to your existing tank. The standard filler will actually be inside the rear wheel arch and it is a simple matter to make a connection from the panel at the rear of the door to the tank. Peter, it is possible to change the clutch on a ser 2 or 3 by sliding the gearbox back about 4 or 5 inches, without removing the seat box. To make it easier measure the gap between the flywheel housing and the chassis cross member, take a piece of wood or metal, the same thickness, say about 8 inch long and put it between the housing and the chassis with the extension to the rear. As you slide back the gearbox the weight of the engine will keep the wood in place. This will support the rear of the engine and also the front of the gearbox and aid in alignment when it comes time to push the gearbox forward. To replace the clutch in this manner requires a short centre alignment tool. Alan. Hylomar, or sq32m is an aircraft standard sealing material, it is relatively thin, does not harden and stick the parts together and will withstand temperature. For most sealing applications on the rover, the silicone type instant gasket materials are acceptable, however for the cylinder head gasket a higher quality material is required, one that you can seperate at some future date. Jory.. when looking inside the open top of your gearbox, with the three selector shafts removed( remove the 3/4 selector first on a ser 3 and last on a ser 2, the middle one second and the reverse gear selector last on a ser 3 and first on a ser 2) you will then see a gear arrangement with a brass ring at either end. the brass rings are separated by 3 round spacers, about 2 inch long. This is the 3/4 synchro hub. in between these brass rings you will see a gear with a central disc which the selector fitted over, Thisdisc slides to and fro to change from 3 rd to 4 th. if you rotate the mainshaft , you should see, under each of the three spacers a spring in the form of a black metal plate which passes through holes in the disc. the springs have a bump in the middle to hold the gear to the front or to the rear. if you manually slide the gear to and fro you should feel it click into position. If one of the spring clips is missing it unbalances the forces on the gear and it will tend to stick and be difficult to move. Regards Bill Leacock. Limey in exile. From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Thu Jun 30 21:43:05 1994 Date: Thu, 30 Jun 1994 21:43:05 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Drag link ball joint Re: 89 RR OK, the drag link is disconnected from the forward steering arm of the passenger wheel. I removed the retaining bolt. For the life of me, I can't unscrew the damn ball joint from the drag link! Suggestions? P.S. I have a drop arm ball joint refurbishing kit, but now after further investigation, that ball joint doesn't seem so loose. Looks like a pain to fix. I have a puller ready just in case. kgb (everything else seems to be going well with the restoration) ************************************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ************************************************************************* From "S.Vels Christensen" Fri Jul 1 05:36:42 1994 Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 05:36:42 -0600 (CST) From: "S.Vels Christensen" Subject: RE: Stage ONE In message Thu, 29 Jun 1995 23:32:15 -0400 (EDT), "Steven Swiger LIS" writes: : could someone please tell me the difference between a Land Rover Stage- : vehicle and a Series- Vehicle? : I have seen this used in several places and always figured they meant : Series One... : Any Info is appreciated... : thnx : steve : swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu In the late 70'ties and the early eighties, three basic models were available. - 88" and 109" 2.25 (petrol/diesel) -109" V8 (petrol). The 2.25 types were real Land-Rovers with a recessed radiator, aluminium gearbox with a yellow and a red knob. The 109" V8 had a straight front, an iron gearbox with a lockable centre diff like a 110" limousine but was leaf sprung and had a divided windshield. I believe this is the Stage One. We could also call it series three-and-a-half. (I wonder if the Solihull blacksmiths took a course in Japanese cooking?). sv/aurens From "S.Vels Christensen" Fri Jul 1 05:36:51 1994 Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 05:36:51 -0600 (CST) From: "S.Vels Christensen" Subject: RE: Fuel Injection For Series Land Rover? In message Thu, 29 Jun 1995 17:33:56 -0700, johnliu@earthlink.net (John Y. Liu) writes: : I recently did some looking into the aftermarket fuel injection units sold : by Holley under the name "Projection". These are throttle body, computer : controlled, fuel injection units with a closed loop (oxygen sensor) : option. The idle, mixture, etc. can be controlled from the cab. They are : not street legal in California, but on an early 60's truck that wouldn't : matter much. The Holley line includes a single-barrel unit intended for : Jeeps. I don't have the exact cost but I think it is in the $250-300 : range. Has anyone ever looked into fitting one of these, or any fuel : injection, to a Series rover? I'm curious about the possible advantages : in gas mileage, cold and hot starting, high-altitude operation, : emissions, and driveability. Not that a Series rover is deficient in any : of these areas, mind you, nor would I ever suggest such, but . . . given : the cost of a Solex carburator nowadays . . . I've been thinking of injection for a while. I looked a my dad's VW Polo which has manifold injection. Four little units. They are connected to a probe in the catalyst. The lambda probe's only job is to adjust the mixture to, i think, 17:1. The catalytic process is optimal with this mixture. I think the engine is identical to the one used just before cats became compulsory on new cars. Injection superseded carburettors to add the few kW that was eaten by the cat. It should be relatively easy to drill four holes in the manifold and mount the injectors. Using the lambda-probe should provide an easy way to control the mixture, -at least to have some where to start. The probe only returns an electric value i think. Nothing digital. If the mixture is wrong for the compression in a landy, it must be possible to adjust the voltage return from the probe. Choke. Modern cars with choke use automatic bi-metal types. Must be possible to find something useful. Otherwise the probe or the water temp sender should be able to handle a simple and reliable circuit to provide a decreasingly rich mixture until the engine heats up. Manifolds. Without the carb, the inlet manifold can be replaced by four pieces of straight pipe each with an injector and a K&N. The exhaust manifold can be replaced with a one-two pipe. If one comes as far as this, a Lumenition is of course a must. Just a few ideas. I wish i could conduct a few experiments myself, but there is nothing but echoes in the treasury at this time :-( Comments and opinions welcome. sv/aurens From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat Jul 01 01:41:04 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 1995 01:41:04 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: What the heck is Hylomar sealing com > I'm putting my petrol engine back together again (I hope) and > I need an American substitute for this mysterious substance... > Would Form-A-Gasket copper aircraft sealing compound do? Hylomar, smylomar! I use Indian Head gasket sealer. Nice thick sticky black goo. Works fine, lasts a long time. OK,OK.. if you REALLY want Hylomar.... Loctite makes a Hylomar Gasket Dressing Sealant.. Sold as Loctite Worldtech 819 Hylomar. Comes in a brown tube. At popular autoparts stores.. and some pretty unpopular ones too, I'll wager. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Almost Done!) 7 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) #:-}> 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts) From rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose) Fri Jun 30 23:47:08 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 23:47:08 -0700 (PDT) From: rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose) Subject: Reply to Jeremy and Peter In regards to: From: Peter Aslan Subject: Urgent: Help with Clutch. I've checked the the MAser and Slave Cylinders, The peddle has a strange action, it only goes about half way down and meets a definate clonk or apparent obstruction. This sounds like the slave cylinder piston bottoming out on the circlip. Try lengthening the push rod for more travel. Or, more importantly, if this has happened recently, check for broken clevis pins on the cross shaft. A broken clutch usually doesn't have the symptoms you describe. AND: From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Troubleshooting Static Coolant Loss I peeked into Mathilda's (SIIA 109 SW) radiator this evening just by chance and noticed that the coolant has disappeared out of sight! :( This of course raises the question of where did it go? The nightmare being that its trickled into the block/head somewhere where it shouldn't be. Since the engine has not run, if the water leaked into the oil, then it has sunk to the bottom of the sump under the oil and not mixed. If you loosen the sump drain plug, the let just a bit of liquid out, you will get water if it is there, or oil if it isn't. If the water isn't there, well... Look in the down pipe. Or intake manifold? Small chance, but that's about it. Regards, Randy Rose '57 107 Station Wagon From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat Jul 01 03:34:32 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 1995 03:34:32 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Split Charge Circuits Andy.. Go the "black box" route. Find an isolator box - probably at an RV or caravan supply place - and wire it in. I used one on a VW Westfalia for years with no problems at all. Had a few times when I ran the aux battery almost dead and the main still had a full charge. The instructions with the isolator I have suggested installing a circuit breaker in the line between the isolator and the aux battery.. just to protect the isolator in case of overloading the aux battery. Cheers Mike From "John B. Friedman" Sat Jul 1 07:24:02 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 95 07:24:02 -0500 From: "John B. Friedman" Subject: Discovery tips Anyone one out there with a Discovery who wants to offer driving impressions and problem tips? I have one on order. Thanks. Reply privately to johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu From "John B. Friedman" Sat Jul 1 07:41:26 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 95 07:41:26 -0500 From: "John B. Friedman" Subject: PS on Discovery Please reply only to johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu, as johannes@draco.slip.uiuc.edu won't accept mail From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Sat Jul 1 06:08:09 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 95 06:08:09 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: The D90 SKINNY On our way up to Owl's Head, but this just from the horse's mouth? and I quote: *THERE WILL BE NO 1996 DEFENDER 90* end quote... (USA model) There will also be a limited number of D90 hardtop *STATION WAGON* models produced for fall introduction... Pricing and equipment details on this model not known at present... Production of the NAS D90 will continue until the end of 1995. Again, no 1996 production of NAS D90. After that? Who knows. Cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! 1967 SIIA 5.0 hybrid 1967 SIIA 109 5.0 hybrid 1968 F/C IIB diesel 1970 3500S 1990 Range Rover County 1993 D110 From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 1 08:28:00 1994 Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 08:28:00 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: 89 RR Update Sorry I've been out of touch, busy... you know. Well, as my previous post shows, I'm back at work. Remember the frozen caliper thread way back? "hmmmmm Oh yeah..." Well, I bought some brake fluid to prepare for my project and noticed, "Brake fluid is clear!" Well, clear compared to what was running through my lines. I figure, no one has changed the brake fluid in the >100,000 mi life of the RR. Well, I heard that air in the lines could cause frozen calipers (how? Idono.) Well, I thought a simple brake fluid renewal was in order. I bled all the brake lines and what do you know... I got bilateral foot drop from squatting so long. Oh yeah, the brakes work fine now too. The loose steering I believe is from thie drag link ball joint, I'll keep you posted. kgb 89 RR (But feels like 84 or even 83) ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 1 08:28:06 1994 Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 08:28:06 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Sightings I can't get over how excited everyone seems to get when they find that LR built more than just their own trucks. As for sightings, since Michael Jordan was seen tooling around in his RR, it seems everyone here in Chicago is driving a Disco. (Mostly around the south-side, though) kgb 89 RR ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 1 08:38:36 1994 Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 08:38:36 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: European brake binacle light Ok, last one. This is not for advice, but just a colorful story. Since I bought the 89RR, the driver side window was slow going up. All the other windows worked fine and the affected window went down fine. Well, as I was fixing up the center console, I noticed that the grounding wire for the window circuit emptied into one of the console's retaining bolts. When I finished fixing all the other problem (none related to, or anywhere near the vacinity of the window circuit) I then noticed that the binnacle light for the European Brakes was partially lit. To get it to go out, I just disconnect the ground for the window circuit. But, then the windows don't work. Simple solution: The binnacle light for european brakes is not used in the North American model, so I pulled out the bulb. Strange how that happens huh? The clincher... Now the driver side window works great! I give up. It could only happen in a RR! kgb 89RR In case anyone is wondering why an M.D. would be doing such extensive repairs on his own car... If I could afford to have it fixed I would, or I'd buy a new one. Problem is: as an Orthopaedic Surgery resident, I make around minimum wage (I suspect less) and car mechanics make $65/hr working on RR's. My time is much less valuable. ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Sat Jul 01 09:25:11 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 95 09:25:11 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: D 90 sales in Canada Someone asked why the D90 wont be sold in Canada any more. reason: not moving quicly enough of the lots with too litle profit margin. simple eh! ? -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Sat Jul 01 09:13:24 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 95 09:13:24 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: plastic models of solihull products There has been some chat of late on the availability of plastic kits of Land Rovers Defenders and Range Rovers. In my basement where my office is I have a samll alliadins cave of model kits unbuilt. Sorry they aint for sale! Most of the kits that peolpe have been refering to are long out of production and are like hens teeth these days. The ESCI range of 1/24 scale 109s, three versions and range rovers 3 versions I think, are really accurate and great fun. The pink panther kit from Tamiya along with the s2 ambulance were from the height of tamiya excellence. Unfortunatly they are no longer available. The monogram 1/24 s3 88 had awfull tyres but was reasonable accurate. It was also possible to interchange parts between the 1/24 scale kits to make some variations. The Tamiya 1/35 scale stuff was also interchangeable with the Italei s3 109 civilian model to make a whol slew of mdoels. As this is my background and how I became friends with LRO's Bob Morrison I have quite a pile of kits and accesories. i also have a pile of model making articles and how too's. If you are looking for any of these discontinued kits , good luck. What are they worth? How badly do you want them? I wouldnt part with mine for any moneyu' cos I cant replace them. I welcome direct email on this subject, if you want copies of articles or a listing then e mail me direct. Regards Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Sat Jul 01 09:22:46 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 95 09:22:46 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: 101's The two Toronto 101's came out of service with the Brits in Belize and then passed through a third party before being brought to canada. -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From BobandSueB@aol.com Sat Jul 1 13:17:14 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 1995 13:17:14 -0400 From: BobandSueB@aol.com Subject: Re:Static coolant loss In a message dated 95-07-01 04:43:52 EDT, you write: >Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:27:52 +0059 (BST) >From: Charlie Wright [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] >evaporation. >I would think the head removal excessive. Hi, My two cents is, What if the PO filled it and there was an air bubble as often happens with a closed thermostat? Eventually the water settles and there is a low level. Or you warm the engine and thermostat opens, then add water. Check the sump for water below the oil (first out the drain) also the plugs out to check cylinders. Then if no bad indications, Maybe just had a bubble. Bob Bernard From jhong@haiku.com (John Hong) Sat Jul 1 13:14:30 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 1995 13:14:30 -0700 From: jhong@haiku.com (John Hong) Subject: diesels and brakes... Hi All, Re: the thread on diesels and braking - how feasible is the reverse - instead of vacuum how about positive pressure? Don't the big trucks have a compressor and storage tank for brakes (don't they also fail from time to time - hence the "runaway" ramps on highways?) If a reliable pressure system existed for rovers, then seeing as you have a pressure accumulator already, one would pretty much *have to* get an air activated diff lock or two! :) I would assume that the compressor/tank sets sold for air locking diffs don't have the capacity/margin for braking applications? regards, John "oil burner wannabe" Hong John Hong Haiku Systems Lotus Notes Business Partner Consultant jhong@haiku.com 408-249-8340 From Dave White Sat Jul 1 19:00:47 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 1995 19:00:47 -0400 From: Dave White Subject: Re: Billing I will be marshalling at Billing again this year - I will probably be at the reception point Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Anybody from the list please make yourself known... I may be able to set aside a camping area for list subscribers. Anybody interested ??? Dave W. '72 SWB SIII V8 auto R/R Chassis and running gear. '89 Range Rover Yorkshire Rover Owners Club Dave W. '72 SWB SIII Yorkshire Rover Owners Club From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Thu Jul 1 18:54:20 1993 Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1993 18:54:20 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Loose steering thread Well, I finally got the draglink balljoint replaced. A vice and a pipe wrench AND A WHOLE LOTTA MUSCLE finally got it. I have Hayne's Owners shop manual and the drag link and drop arm ball joints changed pretty much as they describe. The only addition I could make is: Substitute the words "medium hammer" with "the biggest hammer you can lift." I eventually used a small sledge hammer (ie. a one-handed sledge hammer) I don't consider that 'medium'. Anyway, the steering is "show room new." I am very pleased. Now to finish putting the inside back together. Also, I have some brief input to make about the comparisons between parts suppliers. I used Atlantic B. and they always delivered what I ordered on time for a competative price (maybe not the lowest, but close) Brittish P. on the other hand delivered 2 weeks after the promised date and only 2 of 3 items were right. Now I have to deal with sending a part back (I almost feel like just eating the cost and just not using them again) kgb ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 01 95 Jul EDT 1920 Date: 01 Jul 95 20:16:43 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Ball joint removal Ken.. Removal of tight ball joints need not be a struggle, slide the clamp about a foot from the end. place the end of the rodt on an anvil, heavy vice or piece of heavy steel, with the ball joint overhanging and the rod flat on the surface, then hammer the end of the rod over the area where the screw thread is, rotate the rod and repeat the hammering all the way round. This will loosen the threads. DO NOT APPLY HEAT, this can alter the metallurgical structure of the material leading to premature failure. Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile ( and in hiding on Tuesday ) From holland@catapent.com (Shannon Holland) Sat Jul 1 17:52:59 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 1995 17:52:59 -0700 (PDT) From: holland@catapent.com (Shannon Holland) Subject: Finally did it! Well, after months of talking about it and reading this list, I finally got myself to buy a Defender 90. It looking far to new and in desperate need of a decent coat of mud/dirt and perhaps a few scratches, I was wondering if anyone had some good recomendations in regards to places to go offroading in the San Francisco bay area? Thanks in advance! shannon From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Sat Jul 01 19:03:17 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 95 19:03:17 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Need help locating 4 speed for IIa FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Need help locating 4 speed for IIa Hello! This is more directed towards you series lovers located in the UK. I have removed and disassembled the trans from my '71 Series IIa, and have discovered that I need the following parts: 2nd gear(s) (only need the Layshaft gear but comes in pair) $219 1st gear (layshaft) $75 Layshaft $145 (All the "little teeth" have been sheared off!) Total: $440 and that's without bearings or seals. I figured that the best way (as well as least expensive) is to get a rebuilt trans from the UK. In an old issue of LRO I found three places. Would someone please be willing to inquire as to which will provide the best rebuild, and at the best price? Land Part LTD. $ 305.50 (Pounds) Phone 0686 622177 L.E.G.S. LTD $ 293.75 (Pounds) Phone 0691 653737 AEW Paddock Motors Ltd. $188 (Pounds) Phone 0629 584499 These prices are around 1 year old, so they may not be current, and include VAT, but not shipping. Could you find out cost with shipping to the USA (Arizona)? Most importantly, though, is which one should I use? There's a considerable difference in the price from Paddock, but I've always believed that you get what you pay for, so the low price, while attractive, makes me a bit nervous. Please help! E-mail me at debrown@srp.gov and I'd be greatly appreciative!!! I'm very anxious to get "red rover" rolling again! So please let me know as soon as possible. I'd like to order first thing Tuesday. Thanks, Dave Brown. #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From UncleBrad@aol.com Sun Jul 2 01:14:12 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 01:14:12 -0400 From: UncleBrad@aol.com Subject: 109 for sale I have a friend with a '64 109 2-door with hatch. It runs pretty well, has newly done seats, body pretty straight, but needs paint and a few odds & ends. His name is Eric and his phone number is 510-827-1994 in California. He was asking $5000, but I'll bet you could make him an offer. From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 2 03:19:56 1993 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 03:19:56 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Gas I have a question. The RR owners manual ststes that one should not use low octane gas or oxygenated gas like gasahol. What does that do to the engine? Is this basically the same thread as before when everyone was talking about using unleaded gas in leaded cars? kgb ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From Mark Perry Sun Jul 2 03:22:50 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 03:22:50 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry Subject: rover turbos Lloyd Allison of Oz was looking for more info on Rover's turbo cars. He and other LROs should try to find The Rover Story: A Century of Success, by Graham Robson (Cambridge, Stephens, 1977) It has a good account of the hows and whys of the Rover turbos and some interesting pix of same. The chapter on Land Rovers tells the basic tale of the origins of LR and its place in the Rover organization, as well as the origins of the Range Rover.Interesting book for LROs to get an overview of the nature of the firm that produces their favorite 4x4 (at least as the firm was up until the era of B*****h L*****d.) Now I'm a bit puzzled about Stage 1 110's after recent posts. A fellow hereabouts has the only 110 in town, a 1983 2.25 diesel LHD two-door hardtop he says started life in France, then found its way to a farm here in Manitoba from whence he bought it. It has the horizontal louvre grille, not the squarish thing I've seen in pix of early 110s. Now would it be Stage 1, pre-stage 1, or post Stage 1? Regards, Mark Perry Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop (currently languishing in chassis shop for new springs, X-member, etc. "Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire." From Andy Dingley Sun Jul 02 13:20:38 1995 Date: Sun, 02 Jul 95 13:20:38 From: Andy Dingley Subject: diesels and brakes... > From: jhong@haiku.com (John Hong) > Re: the thread on diesels and braking - how feasible is the reverse - > instead of vacuum how about positive pressure? Don't the big trucks have a > compressor and storage tank for brakes Not really feasible I'm afraid. The problem is that large trucks have "air brakes" (brakes where air works the actuators on the wheels) and cars & LRs have "vacuum assisted hydraulic" brakes (where the gas pressure operates the servo booster under the bonnet, but the brakes themselves remain hydraulic). Small trucks use servo-hydraulics too, but these are a large servo unit mounted on the chassis (maybe 2'-3' long). If you could find an air pressure servo for a master cylinder, rather than a vacuum servo, this would be feasible. I believe such things have been made, but they're extremely rare in suitable sizes for LRs. -- Andy Dingley dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk And the Whale asked, "Do all oceans have walls ?" From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Sun Jul 2 09:35:17 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 95 09:35:17 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: Drag link ball joint The shop manual shows a special tool -- a cross between a clamp and a puller -- used to push the ball joints out. The only one I've done came out by hand when I removed the nut at the bottom of it. I guess various ingenious means of applying force can be devised -- sorry not to be more help Good luck John Brabyn 89 RR From jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Sun Jul 2 11:04:26 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 11:04:26 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: PO tales from the crypt (fuelishness) Well, just thought I'd post my latest discoveries on Mathilda's (IIA 109 SW) PO's mechanical endeavors for you amusement since the list is quiet again. In the process of working under the vehicle tracking down a coolant leak (turns out to be a shot seal in the water pump that was slowly leaking down the outside of the block to the oil pan -thanks to one and all for the advice) I noticed the following: The fuel line has been replaced (the original is cut but still in place). The replacement roughly parallels the original, BUT, (here comes the wierd part) it bypasses the original sediment bowl and mechanical pump, runs up to an aftermarket filter, across the top of the engine to the carburetor. The other part of this story is the PO said it wouldn't run because it needed a new carb. Pretty funny in a way. I assume you see the problem. The original wiring to the sender/gauge has also been replaced, although the original harness still runs through the frame. The tank breather tube no longer runs to the filler cap area and there doesn't seem to be a point to attach it at per the LR shop manual. I'll have to take a look at this and see if parts are needed. The current breather tube is lying on top of the tank open to the atmosphere beneath the rear of the vehicle not too far from the sender electrical connections. Doesn't seem to healthy :o . By the way I've noticed that in the Land Rover shop manual there appears to be an error in the technical drawings for the 2.25 liter fuel line. The drawings show the fuel line from the side tank going to a sediment bowl only and from there to the carburetor (although they are labeled as going from the sed. bowl to the pump no pump is shown.) The figures show only the isolated sed. bowl as used on the 6 cyl. model not the mechanical pump/sed bowl combination used on the 2.25 models. I wonder if the PO based his modification on this figure! As I traced the fuel line I also noticed an interesting jury rigged cotter pin replacement at the rear U-joint. No cotter pin, instead a nail was inserted and bent. Seems OK, but a little odd to look at the nut and see a nail head in there! Cheers, Jeremy P.S. If you don't get it there's no fuel pump anywhere in the current fuel line! No wonder it wouldn't run. P.P.S. I checked the oil and plugs in tracing the coolant leak all are fine. The radiator took 17.5 cups of water to fill it back up so its definitely time for a water pump rebuild. Definitely much easier to trace or notice leaks once the parts are clean! From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 02 95 Jul EDT 1919 Date: 02 Jul 95 19:01:53 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Reconditioned gearboxes. Dave Brown asks about reconditioned gearboxes in the UK. Caveat emptor.. Reconditioned is a word with a large range of meanings, aplied to the factory item it means that ALL wearing parts are replaced, applied to a $400 gearbox it means anyhting from "cleaned " to perhaps a few parts replaced. Using your own prices for parts how can anyone recondition a gearbox for less than the cost of parts. Your prices do not include , as a minimum the second / third gear bearing bush and circlip, layshaft bearings and gaskets etc. I have "repaired' scores of Land Rover gearboxes, ie replaced the minimum number of service parts and the broken / damaged gears , shafts and bearings, using where appropriate used gears and shafts for friends and members of the LR clubs to which I belonged. You also mention some of the gears are paired, I know of one "professional " gearbox repairer who advertises widely who has a large pile of used parts in the corner of the workshop which is the parts store from which gearboxes are "reconditioned" . It is not essential that worn gears are paired, after all what are a few extra decibels of gearbox noise in a Landy when you have cross ply tyres and a diesel engine. Another problem with your prices is quoted prices for reconditioned gearboxes are usually " exchange" so you would attract either extra shipping costs or an excess charge. Buy some used parts and do it yourself, at least you know what has gone in to it. Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. PS Happy holiday in the colonies, just think , in addition to the Land Rover you have the Brits to thank for an extra days holiday on Tuesday!! From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Sun Jul 02 16:17:26 1995 Date: Sun, 02 Jul 95 16:17:26 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: model land rovers For those of you who would like to start of with model Land Rovers in a gentle way then perhaps I can suggest any easy solution. P.G. Models of 3 St James Park Brackla, Bridgend, Mid Glamorgan CF31 2NP England puts out a number of military land Rovers in the N gauge. If you are wondering what scale that works out to it is 1 / 148th (UK). He has both a soft and hard top 3/4 ton S3 109 plus the 1/4 ton trailers to go with them. He also does a 3/4 ton ambulance which is series three I beleive. The Land Rovers were about 2pounds a piece or just under when I ordered over a year ago. Paul Gandy makes nice simple models. They are a complete vehicle less the wheels which you can put on with superglue. Including painting and assembly from out of the pack to made was about 12 minutes each! These models are made of resin and are not suitable for the little ones as they are barely 1/2 inch long when made. TTFN Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 2 20:47:21 1993 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 20:47:21 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Re: Gas >I'm a little surprised the V8 has trouble with poor fuel. It is quite Actually, the 3.95 V8 on my RR is running fine. It's just that I came across their recomendations, and I was wondering how I'd do damage to the truck by using cheap gas. So I will infer that as long as I don't hear knocking, then I have nothing to worry about. Thanks for the info. kgb ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 2 20:47:51 1993 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 20:47:51 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Re: Drag link ball joint Actually, not only can you use a puller on the drop arm, one can be used for the drop arm ball joint. As for the drag link ball joint, I misrepresented the situation... the drag link did come out with a mild tap of a medium hammer. It was the G&^%&^%* drop arm ball joint that wouldn't come un-done. I used a puller and believe-it-or-not rather than free the ball joint, it compressed that little hole the stay pin goes through! That's when I got pissed and used the sledge hammer. kgb 89RR ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Sun Jul 2 21:50:22 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 21:50:22 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Subject: Destruction => Restoration o' da' Moose... First of all, thanks to all that replied regarding my Stage One query. I have now become thoroughly edumacated. This weekend I finally got to do some work on Moose, my 73 III 88. What I started with was a daily driver from Boston, shipped to florida. Although it runs strong, it has a cracked exhaust manifold and poor exhaust system. While the frame appeared weathered, after delivery it was downright scary. This weekend reinforced my beliefs.... After making arrangements with Jim Cartier of Seminole Rovers (Seminole FL (813 399-2961) for the replacement of the rear frame-half, Jim had the truck towed to his workshop so I could begin the strip down. BTW, He had four other landies in his shop at the time - 1 IIa 109 diesel (full restoration, I think), 1 IIa 88 used for hunting (complete with skinning table affixed to the rear crossmember) in for a suspension rebuild, 1 II 88 Daktari colored safari machine, no idea what was being done to it, and a III 88 for light engine work (electrical). He is terrific on price for parts, has lotz o' used stuff, and does great work. Anyway, a friend volunteered to help with the removal of the top, bed, seatbox, and gastank. It took us about three hours, and after everything but the gas tank was removed, the frame proceeded to break (literally) in half just behind the gastank outrigger, attempting to destroy my rear propshaft and what was left of the exhaust system in the process. Luckily it was caught in time and jacked up again for the time being. After careful appraisal of the situation, I found that not only did the frame work need to be done, but the rear springs were past the point of recovery, and the corrosion of the bed was bad enough to warrant replacement instead of repair. So, unwittingly, I find myself with a frame-off restoration on my hands, and need some advice. 1. Does the whole front end of the truck (wings, grill, etc.) have to be removed to take out the bulkhead? (I am going to put in a IIa bulkhead and trade the III bulkhead). 2. Does anyone have any inner wings (the piece of aluminum that seperates the wheelwell from the engine compartment) that they would part with? (Mark Talbot, might you?) 3. When rebuilding the hardtop, would it be easier to replace the side window channels or replace the whole assembly? 4. How do I get the 2- to 4- wheel drive push rod to lock down (the truck was used in the city, in two wheel drive, for god-knows-how-long. I can get it to engage 4-low range, but not 4-high, it won't lock down.) Any and all suggestions would be much appreciated...HELP! Thanks in advance from myself and Moose, steve swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu 73 III 88" "Moose" under destruction. From jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard) Sun Jul 2 21:59 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 95 21:59 EDT From: jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard) Subject: Wanted. 88in Hardtop window Anyone got a starboard side window and frame for a 88" hardtop they would be willing to sell me? The PO took mine out to install cabinets in the back, and I want to take them out and be able to see out there. Thanks, James 67 MGB/GT 70 James Howard 72 Land Rover 88 72 MGB From Nckcharles@aol.com Mon Jul 3 01:06:42 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 01:06:42 -0400 From: Nckcharles@aol.com Subject: Re: #1Engine roaring Don't know if this will help, but if your engine is roaring (reving high) when you first start out each day this can do a fair amount of damage as oil has not been fully distributed to all the moving parts. I would check the engine idle sensor. I presume the LR has one. Nick From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 03 95 Jul EDT 1903 Date: 03 Jul 95 03:44:10 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Replies... misc. RE: SIIA Petrol to Diesel fantasies > diesel unit other than the LR 2.25 diesel into a SIIA without major > modifications? (Iveco 2.5l? GM? Nissan? LR TDi's?) The ideal would be A feasible conversion is the (italian) VM 4-cyl. turbodiesel that was used in earlier models RR diesels in Europe. French Peugeot diesel also fits (though the exhaust is on the 'wrong side'). GM, Nissan, even TDi are way to big for a IIA engine bay without major modifications. Perkins also fits, but beware of the (externally indistinguishable) marine or agricultural lumps, look for a modern high-revving automotive machine. Perkins also requires HD front springs, those things are *heavy*. The Iveco seems to stand a bit to high to me (bonnet wouldn't close), it might have to be lowered via the engine mounts, having the oil pan protuding dangerously low (offroad damage likely). Mercedes - not (for various reasons). ...ok, if you're willing to cut and weld and relocate and adapt etc. then almost anything fits , I've limited the scope to engines that will more or less 'drop in'. > P.S. This isn't too tayloresque is it? Hardly - practice some more. ---------------------------------------------------- RE: Michelin 7.50R16 XZY > 1. How many miles/km's can I expect to get on a set * YMMV * But generally all Michelins are very long-lasting. This particular one is made of an extremely hard compound and has (I think) 9 PR. The XZY usually has to be discarded not because of tread wear, but because of the sidewalls cracking due to old age. On tarmac, on a LR, mileages of 200,000 km are not uncommon. > 2. How does these tyres affect fuel consumption Improves noticeably > 3. What does the thread pattern look like A big, very high Z-type pattern with a rugged track-edge = / / / / / / / / = = \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ = = / / / / / / / / = = \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ = = / / / / / / / / = = \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ = = / / / / / / / / = > 4. How do they perform on: > a: Rocks < good, but bumpy and uncomfortable > b: Sand < Not good > c: Mud < Very good > d: Tar (Noise ???) < Very hard ride, a bit noisy > Is it worth paying R900 (US$250)/tyre as opposed to R400 > (US$120)/tyre for the normal set. If you habitually drive long distances on tarmac and don't need ride comfort they'll probably pay off. These are *truck* tyres. --------------------------------------- RE: Billing > I will be there at the end of my England/Scotland holiday and need to > know how much wine we need. Please answer in the next three or four days > because I start on thursday evening. ...to get wine from *Scotland* ?? -------------------------------------------------------- RE: Urgent: Help with Clutch. Peter Aslan was unhappy with his clutch: > ... and pull the gearbox back 5 inches to get at, and remove the > clutch. Anyone tried this ?? Anything to watch out for ?? Well possible to do it this way. Yes, we tried it (successfully). And watch out nothing big falls on your head or in your face. > I'm concerned that once I unbolt the transmission, the engine will tip > forwards or backwards, ts only got two mounts. ... ... It will tip backwards... but if the engine mounts are in good shape they'll still support the engine weight (i.e. it won't drop on the driveway), and if we're talking about a 'Series' vehicle there should be a chassis crossmember *just about* underneath the rim of the flywheel housing. Wedge a block of wood between housing and crossmember before letting things come undone, and the engine should stay in place - additionally support it with a hydraulic jack under the engine (but don't do it like the jerk I know who punched a hole into his oil pan) > ... And do I need to unbolt > the gearbox mounts to pull it back ?? Why, sure... and the propshafts have to come out as well. And disconnect the hand brake linkage. And this little gearbox-to-chassis rod (in case it isn't already missing...) Oh yes, and I almost forgot: If you have an Overdrive installed you might encounter additional problems moving the thing out of the way... Enjoy! Stefan From Peter Aslan Mon Jul 3 09:38:00 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 09:38:00 +0100 (BST) From: Peter Aslan Subject: Re: Urgent Help with Clutch, part 1. The story as it unfolds.. You may recall the Clutch Slip, predominately when the engine was hot, the limited travel of the clutch pedle. the preliminart Diagnosis, that one or more springs had broken, preventing the clutch from seperating completely, and reducing the presure on the friction plate causing slip. the Plan: Try seperating the Engine and Gbox without removing the Gbox completely, jut rolling it back on a trolly jack under the thing. The manual states you can remove the clutch by seperating the Engine and Gbox by 5 inches. So, to the plot: Remove as follows: 1. Front floor pannels. 2. Gbox tunnel. 3. Flywheel cover. Now to support the Engine at the rear, to allow the Gbox to be removed. Jackup Engine, problem here in that where do you put the jack, in the end I used a large piece of wood under the sump, when lifting the whole LR moved upwards, no decernable increase in the gap between the flywheel housing and crossmember, cant get my recommended 1 inch piece of wood between. So I use a smaller wedged piece of wood instead. Note, when you start to jackup the Gbox, this gap opens up fine. Next the Prop Shafts, Front at the Gbox end, rear at the diff end, (easier to get to). Are these things supposed to go back Exactly as they were removed ?? Undo the Handbrake arm from the rod out of the drum, disconnect the Earthing Strap to the Chassis. Remove the Bolts from the Gbox mounts. Jack up the Gearbox, comes up fine, problem in supporting it though, as the thing is such a weard shape and where is the balance point ?? Bits o wood and stuff later, and I'm undoing the Bell housing from the Flywheel cover, some nuts come off, some remove the studs. In retrospect, the next part would have been easier if all the studs had some out. With the Engine/Gbox disconnected, I 'jiggled' the Gbox back about an inch, then through judicial use of a crowbar, in the true tradition of the LandRover, managed to part the two items by about 4-5 Inches. the manual says 5 Inches is enough, Bollocks. Then a lot of struggling underneath to no avail, try a jack between Gbox and crossmember, something sticking, but what ? Cant see anything under here. Later, Sainaty set in and I removed the Seat Base, the thing I was trying to avoid. The Gbox could not move back because it was fouling the Handbreak bracket on the Left, and the Exaust Pipe on the Right. Anyhow, by jacking up the thing and Jiggling it somemore, I managed to achieve seperation, enough to get at the bolts securing the clutch to flywheel, blody locking washers though, and with the gbox there, verry tight. The friction plate fell out, and looks fine, loads-o-meat. Havent looked at the Clutch machenism yet, but am now suspicious of the release stuff. Stay posted for art 2. Regards, Peter Aslan (aka Captain Norton). Louden Quill Award. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- McDonnell Information Systems Boundary Way Hemel Hempstead Voice: 01442 273324 Hertfordshire HP2 7HU Fax: 01442 244896 ENGLAND Mail: paslan@uk.mdis.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From "Steve Methley" Mon Jul 3 10:28:10 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 10:28:10 +0100 From: "Steve Methley" Subject: Re: Rangie fuel pumps Andy Dingley asks: >What's a good pump for a Rangie ? Is a Solid State big enough, or >should I go for a Silver Top ? The standard pump is excellent. Clean the filter and maybe replace the sealing rubber, but stick with it. You want flow rather than pressure if you see what I mean since the carbs require only 3psi and you have a recirculating system. Too much pressure will flood the carbs especially if they are old. If it's not broken I'd say don't fix it. Cheers' Steve. From Andrew Grafton Mon Jul 3 12:47:32 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 12:47:32 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Loose steering thread > they describe. The only addition I could make is: Substitute the words > "medium hammer" with "the biggest hammer you can lift." I eventually used > a small sledge hammer (ie. a one-handed sledge hammer) I don't consider > that 'medium'. Anyway, the steering is "show room new." I am very > pleased. I thought that a 'medium' hammer was a two-handed sledge, and that a 'large' was when you used the Landrover as the hammer, as per steering relay removal? 8-) Congrats. on the steering, tho' All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From Andrew Grafton Mon Jul 3 12:50:25 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 12:50:25 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Dual circ brakes (fao Alan Richer) Sorry about this - I need to get this to Alan Richer and the direct route keeps bouncing my mail. On our '82 SIII 109" diesel, the dual ciruit brakes are split front and rear. That's all, folks! All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From Andrew Grafton Mon Jul 3 13:28:08 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 13:28:08 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: MOT test blues Can anyone suggest what to do about this? Put our Diesel 109" (1982) through the MOT test and it failed only on 'excessive smoke' and two minor things I have fixed. The smoke test consisted of 6 foot-to-the-floor rev tests with a smokemeter up the tailpipe. Now I'm not suggesting a connection, but the engine threw a ring off 25 miles further down the road. We've rebuilt the engine - rebore, o/s pistons, new journals, valves reground etc. etc. I can't run in the car properly because it hasn't got an MOT or tax. I can't get an MOT because if they floor the throttle it will (probably) bugger the engine. It won't pass the MOT anyway until the rings bed in and it stops smokin' There is a limit to the number of miles I can do on private land, and anyhow I have to get there... Went to visit the Police who said that they cannot/will not help as it is illegal to have the car on the road without an MOT or tax, unless I am on my way to a booked MOT test. I asked if I could get an MOT test booked 300 miles away but they said I would get the book thrown at me if I got caught trying that one on. Apparently it is illegal to be on the road without tax even if on the way to an MOT. Rang the Dept. of Transport who said that there are *NO EXCEPTIONS* and I would have to find a way around it. They were really unhelpful. Added to all this I have an MOT failure sheet which only failed me on windcreen wipers, the steering damper and excessive smoke. Aaargh! Anyone suggest an alternative to doing a couple of hundred (or more) miles around the University Campus and/or an airfield? Anyone know of someone in the Midlands (pref. Nottingham/Leicester area) who will miss off the smoke test bit of the MOT? N.B. the car is '82 and officially needs to pass the abovementioned test. Any other ideas who I can talk to about this? It is things like this that will make an honest citizen like me (!?) go out and break the Law for a few weeks. Yours fretfully, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Mon Jul 03 09:05:16 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 09:05:16 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Oxygenated Gasoline Friends, Seems like using the wrong fuel is a warranty voider in the LRNA paperwork that comes with a new vehicle, including the so-called oxygenated fuels that the Feds have forced into certain areas (including metro D.C.) during winter months. **Is this true?** Tend to agree that as long as there's no pinging, no mechanical harm's done (maybe accelerated corrosion in fuel system?). Just don't let a lawyer know you buy gas in a Greenpeace zone, I guess. I'm surprised that I haven't noticed the oxyfuel thread (this is not leaded vs unleaded) before now, or is it that few of read the new vehicle paperwork because of the incomparable confidence the L-R inspires? Maybe Al Gore will provide guaranteed health care for those Rovers forced to drink this government-required swill. "Hank E. Panky" 1960 Ser II 109 SWD 1995 Discovery 5-sp 8i From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Mon Jul 03 09:12:19 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 09:12:19 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: 1/76 scale models Modelers, Talk about synchronomy....Friday the mail came from APC Hobbies in VA. JB Models kits no 1001 and 1003 are LWB Land-Rovers (injected plastic, 1/76) at $6.75 each. Call (804)973-2705, Visa, MC, Disc. You can also subscribe to APC's old kit list, which features out-of-production models. I've seen various L-R kits listed regularly. Happy hunting, Hank From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Mon Jul 03 09:41:32 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 09:41:32 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Old Meets New - Got the Disco All, Got the call at work Friday -- "Would you like your Discovery for the 4th of July?" It was home later that night, keeping company with my 60 Ser II safari 109. Gearbox seemed a tad stiff going into third at first, but seemed much better, normal in fact, shortly. I carefully put 100 restrained "city/backroad miles" on the engine and did first oil change. (I plan on doing 5 before the first trip to the dealer at 7500. Sure I'm paranoid about break-in, but we intend to keep this car a long time!) Have noticed that the engine compartment, bonnet, and latch seem to get unexpectedly h-o-t HOT to the touch in short order, even on 80-degree day with AC on low blower. Is this normal? Is that engine wax I smell cooking off when I get out of the car? I put a pair of flyer's nomex gloves in the glove box, though. It seems they *will* come in handy. Ordered (and started receiving) the add-on goodies from Rovers North, whose prices on these items are less than list, at least through July 31. Also, the shipping charges will be less than the sales tax I would've had to pay if I had gotten them from the dealer. Reason to :-) ! To prospective owners: this vehicle feels SOLID from the driver's seat, and is very nimble to boot. All second thoughts and possible doubts will quickly evaporate upon consumation. A pure pleasure to drive, but I will never give up my metal dash panel! So now it's "H.M.S. Warrior" and "the wifemobile" in the yard. I'll assume that it's OK to actually *wash* the latter on a regular basis. Getting seat covers 'cause I have kids, Hank From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 2 95 Jul EDT 1923 Date: 2 Jul 95 23:05:29 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Copper Head gaskets: Sealer or no? The subject says it all...do you use sealer on a head gasket? Instinct says no, but I've learned not to trust my instincts on this beast... Secondarily, when one is fitting a rear main seal and rear main bearings, one runs up against 2 L-shaped fiber insert gaskets on the sides of the main bearing cap. Both are the same, yes? If this is the case, Atlantic British owes me a new seal, NOW..... I HATE mailorder.....but I guess this is one of the charms of owning an elderly British tank...8*)... ajr From rdmoritz@ix.netcom.com (Richard Moritz) Mon Jul 3 09:54:32 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 09:54:32 -0700 From: rdmoritz@ix.netcom.com (Richard Moritz) Subject: Re: Gas (Oxygenated Fuels) I have a question. >The RR owners manual ststes that one should not use low octane gas or >oxygenated gas like gasahol. What does that do to the engine? Is [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >using >unleaded gas in leaded cars? My '74 88's gas tank sprang a major leak a couple years ago. It was total, insofar as it filled the garage, and sudden, insofar as there was no leak, than the entire thing burst a week I was out of town. Full tank as well. It appeared that the gasket (rubber?) between the pressed joints on both sides of the tank had degraded. I bought a new gas tank, and got the impression from the salesperson that gas tank failure frequency was on the rise. Could be simply age related, but I keep remembering all of the LR literature regarding natural rubber parts and always wondered whether or not the 10% ethanol might have contributed to the problem. I seem to remember similar concerns for rubber (non-metal) components in U.S. manufactured vehicles. It's hard to avoid some ethanol concentration in gasoline these days, and to date the new gas tank is O.K. RD in Houston From paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Mon Jul 03 08:07:10 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 1995 08:07:10 +1000 From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Subject: steering relay bolt sizes I've just started giving my new series III a thorough once-over, and found that one of the steering relay bolts (the little ones that you remove to refill it with oil) is missing. I'm not keen to drive with another one out, so rather than taking one of its siblings to a nut- and-bolt shoppe to find a mate, I'm trying to find what size it is supposed to be. I assume imperial rather than metric, and a first guess would be 3/16 UNC by 1/2 inch. Any definitive answers? -- Paul Nash turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy 14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA From srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Mon Jul 3 14:21:10 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 14:21:10 -0600 From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Subject: 89 Rangerover Overheating??? My 89 Rangerover seems to be running hot, or so the temperature gage says. Should I believe it? For months, ever since I bought it, the temperature gauge has been riding about 1/4 up the scale from cold. Suddenly, going up a long grade it started to climb, and it got to 2/3-3/4 scale. It cooled off going down hill, but it's been acting up ever since. Sometimes I start it up and within minutes its at 2/3 scale, sometimes it never exceeds 1/4. Sometimes it switches back and forth during a longer drive (albeit rather slowly -- within 5-10 miles). For the last few days it has stayed at 2/3-3/4 scale after a reasonable warm-up period. The engine coolant level is always fine, no overflow, and the thing doesn't seem excessively hot when I open up the hood. Questions, --- Has anyone experienced this sort of thing? --- Is the temperature sensor the guy living in the thermostat housing? Is there only one? I un plugged it and the temperature gage was apparently unaffected (or it has a great memory). --- The temperature sensor appears to be a thermistor or poteniometer, if you like, what resistances should it be reading at, say cold? --- What is the standard thermostat temperature range for this vehicle? Could it be sticking closed? --- In an aluminum block engine is it likely that junk could be clogging the radior part of the time? If so where would said junk come from? By the way, there is an "odd" stubbed-off (unused) wire with a red plastic plug in the end of a connector in the wiring harness near the place where the presumed temperature sensor wires disappear into the spaghetti near the radiator filler. That wire had rubbed through the insulation of itself and one of the temperature sensor (?) wires, apparently shorting them together. Any clues as to what this wire is for and what the consequences of that mishap might be? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ /==============\ | `63 | IIa | Stephen Brown |______|_______| Geomechanics Department, MS-0751 /___/^^^^^^\___\9 Sandia National Laboratories |oo|(@)##(@)|oo| Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185 | | [####] | | ======%%%%====== email: srbrown@sandia.gov {*}={&&}====={*} {*} {*} RockNet: http://sair019.energylan.sandia.gov:70 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From Sanna@aol.com Mon Jul 3 19:54:47 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 19:54:47 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Steering That Goes Bump in the Night Bump in the daylight too! The front end of my '89 RR just started to decompensate. It began with a slight clunk during braking and a squeek in the front end. Then the steering started to pulsate during turns, a little, but not exactly, like wheel-hop on hard pavement with the dif-lock on. Now it's rythmically clunking (thwap, thwap, thwap...) during turns, like something is loose and hitting the frame or body. It sounds serious. Any ideas out there? Nothing seems loose on casual inspection. The tie rod ends are a little worn, but not excessively so. Tony - From Russell Burns Mon Jul 3 18:29:34 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 18:29:34 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: Steering That Goes Bump in the Night Try the pan hard rod. Any play sounds terrible. I shimmed with beer cans for 20K miles.... Russ Burns 91 R-Rover 94 D-90 > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] > ideas out there? Nothing seems loose on casual inspection. The tie rod ends > are a little worn, but not excessively so. > Tony From jpappa01@InterServ.Com (Jim Pappas) Mon Jul 3 20:01:47 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 20:01:47 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com (Jim Pappas) Subject: Re: Misc. Just back from Owl's Head. The best yet. Various counts were made, but concensus was on the order of 112 Land Rovers!!! Wow. Off Road on Sat. was very well attended (except that I was stuck in the 95N parking lot and missed it!) with over 40 vehicles there! Some really nicely restored Series landies were on hand including an immaculate 4-sale ($27K!!) NADA 6-cyl 109. Coupla Dormobiles, a Defender 130 (!) Plenty of Discos compared with only a couple last year - and a good bunch of D90's. Only a single D110. Picking up where I left off on the D90 posting yesterday - the D90 *Station Wagon* will (at least as far as I know) be basically a D110 treatment with wind up windows, metal top, four rear jumps, and an external cage ala D110! Not confirmed though. Nor any info on pricing or color choice - if any choices. I'll keep you posted. cheerz Jim From gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Mon Jul 3 22:34:58 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 22:34:58 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: diesels and brakes... Andy Dingley wrote, regarding John Hong's notion of air-boosted brakes: >If you could find an air pressure servo for a master cylinder, rather >than a vacuum servo, this would be feasible. I believe such things have >been made, but they're extremely rare in suitable sizes for LRs. All the larger army trucks (e.g. deuce-and-a-halfs), when I was in the Army, had air-over-hydraulic brakes. So there must have been plenty of them made. One of the features of this system, as I recall, is to make instant connection for trailer brakes upon hooking up an air line coupling to the trailer. Cheers, Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA (707)485-7220 (home) (707)463-4265 (work) Land-Rover Series III 88", more Land-Rovers, Austin Champ Military 4x4... From Mark Perry Tue Jul 4 02:15:09 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 02:15:09 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry Subject: sightings First sighting is to concur with fate of D90 sales in Canada. The local BMW purveyor here became the Land Rover rep last year. The Discos started appearing around town, and I gather they have moved a couple or three RRs, but the sole D90 I saw on the premises, sat, and sat. Last time I rolled past it wasn't in sight, so who knows. Of course, this being Winnipeg, people are going to wait for the used ones to show up, or find out who's got a cousin who can get it for them wholesale. The fate of D90 does bear out what one Canadian new car guide book said dismissively about the D90; great off-road vehicle, but too basic and too expensive to be anything but a rich man's plaything. Last advertised price I saw here was CDN$34,800. Of course, back before '74, the Series machines were not big sellers hereabouts, either. Poor marketing (then), the dominance of the U.S. and the auto pact, followed by the Japanese ascendancy, thwarted whatever opportunity might have existed for the LR to prove what an ideal utility it could have been in this country: To wit; a gent admiring my IIA one day said he'd worked on a remote northern hydro project, where they'd used an assortment of 4x4s including a couple of LRs. When the project was done the, clapped-out vehicles were abandoned at the site, except, he noted, the Land Rovers. Second sighting: Did I miss this before, or did anyone spot (about four frames of it) a stretch-limo Range Rover in Dumb and Dumber. (Or am I the only LRO who'd admit to watching the movie?) It's passed in the shot where the two dumb guys ride into Aspen, Colo., on their mini-bike. Incidentally, a SERII 109 SW turned up in a scene in the Dutch movie Spetters which was on cable (Showcase) the other night. BTW, when I dropped in once at above-mentioned LR dealer, and asked in a friendly way about parts or service support for Series-type vehicles, they acted as if I had landed from Mars. I think the salesmen might have even feared my IIA out front was scaring off trade. I loitered in the showroom for a few minutes and not one of the buggers even came over to ask if wanted to buy a Disco or something. If they'd even tried, if would have been nice; if they'd tried real hard, I might have even taken that D90 for a test ride. From Lloyd Allison Tue Jul 4 17:43:10 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 17:43:10 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: stage-1 Mark Perry was asking about the Stage-1. This is really a S3A. It is a 109 LWB only and LT95 4spd full-time-4WD range rover transmission, 3.54:1 diffs, drum-brakes, plastic-coated wire-mesh grille, and .... leaf springs. The grille is flush with the front. Stage-1 refers to stage 1 of an investment plan and stage-2 was the 110, later defender. The early 110s had either . V8, 4spd, as for stage-1 or . 2.25 petrol and diesel, 5spd with either . full-time 4wd . part-time 4wd as options (I think) . horizontal slat grille, pretty much as now Lloyd ta for the book ref' From Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Tue Jul 4 08:31:24 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 08:31:24 +0200 (MET DST) From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Subject: got my new baby! Hi all, yesterday I got my first Land Rover. So maybe I'm the youngest LRO here on the list ;-). The guy selling the exmilitary 110 of which I told you some weeks ago, went down with the price and I finally bought it. I drove some kilometers yesterday, just from one end of the town to the other were I live and I already love it. It seems that I wont get that jealous_spoose_problem . My girlfriend likes driving it, too. But I have some things I'm a little worried about: -I am desperately seeking a name for the beast (so far I only know it's male ;-) -The wiper is relatively loud. It gives a loud clack when the blades start wiping in the other direction (sorry for the bad English). -Is it normal that you have to nearly smash the doors or are they maladjusted? -For the German list members only: I need a good (read: cheap) insurance for trucks (LKW!). Any hints? -Where can I get a center seat? I have those white-grey-black Defender seats with neck rests in there and would like to insert one in the middle, too. The guy I bought the car from told me, he mailordered the seats from the UK and paid 80DM (~57 US$) just for shipping. Can I mount the seatbelt for the center seat at the already existing seatbelt mountings? I hope I can sell my old car and get the Landy licenced! Thanks Franz --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de exmil. 110 2.5D --------------------------------------------------------------- From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Tue Jul 4 18:02:14 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 18:02:14 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: stage-1's Lloyd writes: (snip) > (hardtop, ute, station wagon, high-cap ute) with the 3.5L V8 > and LT95 4spd full-time-4WD range rover transmission, 3.54:1 diffs, This raises a question, does anyone know if 4.7 diffs and 0.996 transfers were ever fitted factory (OZ) to stage-1's. Why do I ask?? well this is how my stage-1 is set up. I know of two others, one the same month as mine (12/82), with the same "deluxe" trim. (ie highback cloth buckets etc, only heard about the other from a mechanic/parts supplier) The front 4.7 diff is of the late (r) type, has two threaded down facing holes on the flat below the pinion much like 110/rangie and appears to be appropriate to the era. The front diff does not have cv joints but standard sIII universals, dont know if the housings will accept the CV or not. While I happily accept the possibility of a PO making cost saving repairs the existance of at least one other near identical vehicle set up the same makes me wonder..... Awfull expensive cost saver too, two new diffs and modified ransfer... Any thoughts? cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Tue Jul 4 18:04:53 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 18:04:53 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: got my new baby! Franz writes: > But I have some things I'm a little worried about: > -I am desperately seeking a name for the beast (so far I only know > it's male ;-) Funny how ALL 110's are male isnt it.:-) -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu Tue Jul 04 02:29:33 1995 Date: Tue, 04 Jul 1995 02:29:33 PST From: chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu Subject: Help with new car trouble. * engine halt while on slope * Dear LRO, I have a question about the new Range Rover which I purchased on 6/30/95. What happened was when the car was on the hill and whether or not my foot is on the gas paddle or the break the engine sometimes would just die. I tried to let the car roll backward while the gear is still in Drive mode, the engine would just stop running every time when I do that. Other than this problem, the car seems to be running fine on the flat road surface. Since this is a long weekend, fourth of July, I would have to wait until Wednesday to get the car back to the dealer for repair. My question is: if this is a major problem for a new car, what is the best thing I can do to fix this problem? Also, is it possible for me to talk to the dealers in exchange for a new car? If you have any suggestions or comments please let me know about it via E-mail. chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu Thank you very much for your help! Denny From mtzphil@vax.ccc.nottingham.ac.uk Tue Jul 04 10:38:42 1995 Date: Tue, 04 Jul 1995 10:38:42 BST From: mtzphil@vax.ccc.nottingham.ac.uk Subject: Steering that goes bump in the night Tony - Could be the front driveshaft CV joint. This produces a marked knocking sound on turning corners when its on the way out. Replacement is easy and relatively cheap - covered in an article in a recent edition of LRO. Phil Taylor (73 lt/wt, 90 disco V8) From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 04 95 Jul EDT 1909 Date: 04 Jul 95 09:29:14 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Steering That Goes Bump... > the front end. Then the steering started to pulsate during turns, a little, > but not exactly, like wheel-hop on hard pavement with the dif-lock on. Now > it's rythmically clunking (thwap, thwap, thwap...) during turns, like HAVE YOU CHECKED THE WHEEL LUGNUTS? If one or more of them are loose, or torque is uneven, it can produce exactly such symptoms. Other candidates (in the order of likelyhood): Suspension bushings (radius arms, panhard rod), tie rod ends (loose, worn), front constant velocity joint(s) breaking up (e.g. due to lack of oil in the swivel pin housing), front diff acting up, front hub bearing(s). Let's hope it's just a loose lugnut (though this would be the most dangerous situation... hello... are you still there?) Stefan From Dixon Kenner Tue Jul 4 09:41:09 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 09:41:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Misc. On Mon, 3 Jul 1995, Jim Pappas wrote: > Just back from Owl's Head. The best yet. Various counts were made, but > concensus was on the order of 112 Land Rovers!!! Wow. A count just before noon came up with 102 vehicles (yes, more arrived later, though some left. at about 2pm it was at 107, but here is the noon count). Saw a number of the LRO@team.net placards on various land rovers. Counted at least ten list members at the Rally (You, Bill Maloney, Steve Denis, T. Dolan, Mike Loiodice, Spencer Norcross, Ben Smith (who now has to drive back to California after driving to the OVLR Birthday Party), Trevor Easton etc... (Roger, you could have been there... :-)) 80" = 1 107 = 1 II/IIA 88 = 38 " 109 = 11 III 88 = 17 " 109 = 1 D90 = 4 D110 = 1 RR lwb = 12 " 4SE = 3 Disco = 9 Rover car = 1 (P5?) Others = 4 (hybrids) 109 Stage 1 = 1 (created, not orig one) A lot of credit has to go to Myles Murphy who started this rally and continues to organise it and keep it growing and being the excellent showing that it was. > Off Road on Sat. was very well attended (except that I was stuck in the 95N > parking lot and missed it!) with over 40 vehicles there! Was a lot of fun. 54 vehicles were at the event hosted by the East Coast Rover Co. They created a light off-road course that tended towards a medium as the tracks got churned up by some vehicles with a small pond at the end to was the vehivle up. (The drop into the pond was rather steep and only the 80" and a 88" with lockers were able to get up it) ECR put on a rather nice lunch for those there that had sent Myles the pre-registration form or had called. As per being stuck on 95N, it is a holiday weekend Jim! It should be a parking lot. Next year go straight north and come at Camden from the west or north. Zero traffic coming in down 17 through Augusta. 100+ kph most of the way. The Ottawa -> Camden run was 805km and took nine hours (in a SAAB. Had to work Friday & I arrived at 6am as it was Sat am.) > Some really nicely restored Series landies were on hand including an > immaculate 4-sale ($27K!!) NADA 6-cyl 109. Coupla Dormobiles, a Defender > 130 (!) Plenty of Discos compared with only a couple last year - and a > good bunch of D90's. Only a single D110. That much for the NADA? Didn't ask. Was in pretty good shape. What mine shoiuld look like, but probably never will. (The beauty marks on mine are far too useful commuting to work. Keeps people far away. Never been cut off yet.. :-)) Two dormobiles plus Herbert Zimkin's customised 109 that went across Africa and Europe in the early 1960's. > Not confirmed though. Nor any info on pricing or color choice - if any > choices. I'll keep you posted. No TDi? Is EPA approved as I understand... Rgds, Dixon From "S.W.Brierley" Tue Jul 4 14:52:51 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 14:52:51 +0100 From: "S.W.Brierley" Subject: The road to Recovery (is damn long) Hi Fellow owners/enthusiasts, Here is my tale of woe, which is still not concluded even now. It is the story of 'Emma'-its short for Haemorrhoid, this is because they are both a pain in the ass. "Emma" is my 1976 SWB Ser III, sporting a unwell V8. A while back she killed her water pump, which wasn't too bad except that the new one had to be modified so as to get it to fit under the bonnet( the shaft fouls on the radiator if left standard), much messing about got the pump modified. After the pump, there was the overheating, this is what had killed the pump, because the head gaskets were leaking compression in to the water system, blowing the front seal on the pump. So the head gaskets were done by myself. Ahhhh now we are getting there..... NO. I think i will replace the Stromberg carbs with some lovely reconditioned SU's. So this was duly done..... Now the damn thing wont run on all 8 cylinders due to some form of electrical problem. So to summarize, the pump was replaced as neccesity, the radiator was uprated to improved cooling version by choice, the Carbs were by choice( wanted more ooooomph), the head gaskets were necessity, and the plugs and HT leads were by choice..... and its still not running yet!!!!!!!. Its seen the local LR parts supplier, the local LR "expert", the local Carb reconditioning place, and now the local garage (where the MOT gets done). All fitting and modifying was done by myself, so maybe thats the problem, i should stop being tightfisted and pay for future work. Oh well.... But, I AM NOT GETTING RID OF IT, contrary to popular "advice". I will keep you guys updated. STU. From Dixon Kenner Tue Jul 4 10:06:21 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 10:06:21 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Defender in ca On Fri, 30 Jun 1995, Gowyn Wilcox wrote: > Sorry to bore you all, but this is mainly a colonial question. Does anyone > know why the D90 will no longer be sold in Canada? I was planning on > looking into one in a couple of years, but now what. And what about buying > stateside? Also for any of you LRNA types, why is a real work horse only > sold at high end, snobby, full of themselves BMW, Jag dealerships? They are not selling very well in Canada. The current config is perfect for the rich California market but is a disaster for the general Canadian market were the TDi stripper would sell a lot faster. Like, a soft top with our winters? Get real Solihull... However, the marketing types (the first up against the wall when the revolution comes...) have decided that we are not going to get a stripper over here at this time. LR wants the top end of the market. At times, I seriously doubt that LR even wants to sell any D90's over here. They are interested in selling Disco's and Range Rovers. They had to offer the D90, especially with their advertising that shows how long Land Rovers (opps, read the new marketing dribble from the UK. There was never any Series Vehicles! They were Defender 80"'s, Defender fire tenders (built in the mid 1950's on 107 chassis), Defender this & Defender that! Amazing...) I have talked with the Managing DIrector at Land Rover Canada about this. He says he tried to get a stripper over here (TDi, hard top, no roll bars, steel wheels etc) but Solihull wouldn't bite (and probably neither would LRNA who ultimately controls LRCanada (Dumb. Volvo tried this subsidiary approach for years and it failed miserably. Now Volvo Canada reports to Sweden. Canada & the USA are very different markets once the yuppie scum (which is the same everywhere) is excised... They will eventually see this, though LR is run by marketing-types now. No longer does the engineer rule there (You must also remember that "LR" or Rover Group is just a name change from our most favourite Br*t*sh L**l*nd corp, the epitome of quality and labour harmony). I need a coffee... > While I'm at it, I've heard several not so flattering comments about the > D90, I'm just wondering if these are true or not, Not sure if it is safe to discuss this one yet... :-) From "Tom Rowe" Tue Jul 4 09:12:06 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 09:12:06 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: diesel conversion Someone was asking about diesel conversion, I don't know who, I just saw a reply today. If you're considering a Perkins 4203 and want some info, I've done some and will be glad to share my experiences with you. You can e-mail me directly if you want. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From Dixon Kenner Tue Jul 4 10:12:27 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 10:12:27 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: What to do, what to do... On Fri, 30 Jun 1995, Alexander P. Grice wrote: > I was up there a month ago, and I can assure all those attending the > Mid-Atlantic Rally that the mud pit Mike built IS GOING TO SNARE VEHICLES! > Last fall, it had been dry for months, so the mud was minimal. A month ago, > it was a boot-sucking quagmire, and after this week's floods, *I challenge > you* to get through it! Piffle... Getting through is easy. Drive in. If you get stuck, winch your way through. Why else have a Koneig on the front? If you don't have a winch & you drive in... This like earth or is it clay? Any bottom to it? From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Tue Jul 4 08:02:56 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 95 08:02:56 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: Def 90 Station Wagon Followup on the NAS D90 HARDTOP Station Wagon. There will be a total of 540 of these produced; commencing with September production - running until the end of the year. These will be allocated into spring of 1996 as 1995 models. Again, there will be NO *1996* Defender 90 of any type. I am making an assumption that, as with the NAS Defender 110, these 540 units will largely be presold. I still have not seen a photo of one, however I have been told that an exterior cage such as the Safety Devices unit on the D110 will be standard along with a fully finished interior and the traditional four folding jumpseats for a seating capacity of six. I know nothing of pricing and/or color(s) at this time but will post as soon as I do. And, as many attending Owl's Head found out, the TDi HAS been certified for NAS, *BUT* I have heard *NOTHING* about any imminent plans to offer it - at least in the US. cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! From Mike Rooth Tue Jul 4 15:58:45 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 95 15:58:45 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Defender in ca Chance my arm here.......... Comments on the 90,unfavourable thereof.Just this last week, an undergrad at this university appeared in a naturally aspirated 2.5 (I assume) 90.I also assume,having been in the situation myself,that his parents had said something like"If you think I'm fetching all *that* junk home,you can think again,sunshine,heres a company Land Rover,go and bring it back yourself,and if it wont fit,tough". The Rover was nine years old,and a company vehicle, judging by the signwriting on the hardtop sides. The rear X member/chassis joint had already had some *very* messy welding done to it,and I would be getting somewhat worried about the state of the chassis generally had it been mine(I wish!).The bodywork was dinged,mudflaps missing,lamps broken etc,but after all,it *was* a working vehicle,so you cant hold that against it. The engine sounded healthy enough,and didnt smoke,although the kid stalled it repeatedly,and couldnt park it very well, so hadnt done many hours on the type.The interior looked fairly tidy,so had stood up to the hammer quite well.No visible oil leaks. So draw what conclusions you may from those observations.If any. Cheers Mike Rooth From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Sun Jul 4 10:56:48 1993 Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1993 10:56:48 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Re: Steering going bump Based by your computer typed description of those 89 RR sounds, they sound like something I may have experience with. Let me recount a story... (OK a short one!) Shortly after I first purchased the car, it would make a rubbing noise when I'd turn. I thought something was up, but my friend Andy (he knows all) told me it was nothing to worry about. Well conveniently as I was driving to visit Andy, there was a loud clunk, no it was a clank, anyway after that whenever I'd turn the wheels, there'd be a crunching type noise. Aparently the inner seals of the CV joint leaked and there was no oil in the CV joint. The CV joint was broken and needed replacing. Since I was at Andy's, we just put the car up on stilts, took off the wheel and took out the axle and CV joint. I drove a RWD RR for a couple of weeks until we put the new CV in. I strongly suspect this may be your problem. kgb 89 RR P.S. Funny how only 89 RR's are having problems. Hmmmm... ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Mon Jul 03 21:43:49 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 21:43:49 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: oem rebuilt parts Land Rover in the UK has a rebuild program on major items such as trannies ?gearboexes engines etc. Does anyone have any experience and price comments? rgds Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From jcfltee@CAM.ORG (Christian Tassé) Tue Jul 4 16:33:23 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 16:33:23 -0400 From: jcfltee@CAM.ORG (Christian Tassé) Subject: YAKIMA RACKS Hi, Does anyone have the address and phone number for the YAKIMA manufacturer. Thank you. Christian tasse Discovery 1995 From "gshroder" Tue Jul 4 22:45:30 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 22:45:30 +0000 From: "gshroder" Subject: index index lro-digest From David John Place Tue Jul 4 17:34:09 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 17:34:09 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: MOT test blues In response to your problem of not being able to drive your LR before MOT testing. Guess you could jack the back end up and let it drive with no wheels for a few hours. Remember to alter the revs from time to time or you will have an engine with a speed memory like old NiCad batteries. If you could find a moving road machine in some test facility that would solve the whole problem. Dave VE4PN From David John Place Tue Jul 4 17:39:28 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 17:39:28 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Gas (Oxygenated Fuels) I have long suspected that if you switch to ethanol type gas in an old vehicle you are asking for problems. I have noticed on a few old cars I have owned that, yes you get a boost in performance, but you also get paper thin gas tanks very quickly. I suspect that the blend eats rust and in some vehicles it is only the rust that stops you seeing into the tank! Dave VE4PN From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 4 95 Jul EDT 1921 Date: 4 Jul 95 21:03:01 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: On the repair of fender edges Well, the corroded-aluminum bandit stuck my beloved 109 when I wasn't looking - 31 years worth! While awaiting a replacement rear seal from Atlantic British, I decided to do some of the coachwork repair that's on my list for Churchill's refurbishment. Part of this process was repairing damaged bottom edges on both front fenders. The PO had obviosly not been a good parker, and the front bottoms of both fenders had been pushed in. Following the instructions in LR's manual, I heated the folded-up bottom edges in an effort to straighten them (and the bottom of the fender). No go - they broke right off... It was about this time my synapses started to fire and I realized that I'd have to replace this edge to keep the metal from cracking. 10 minutes and a trip to the local home center later I had my answer - Reynold's Aluminum channel. Reynolds Aluminum makes a u-channel designed to fit over the edge of 1/2" plywood, making it 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" and about 1/16" thick. This proved to be ideal, as a section of this fitted just above where the old lip was on the inside of the fender edge and held in place with countersunk Pop-Rivets gave the fender back all of the rigidity it originally had and more. After fitting it, a bit of sanding and some spot putty covered the rivet heads giving an original appearance with no loss of structural strength. After it's painted, you'll never even see it. Just my tuppence worth...ajr From jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Tue Jul 4 18:10:48 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 18:10:48 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Preloading the rear output shaft bearing (speedo. shims) Just wondering if anyone has any experience with techniques for pre loading the rear output bearing (from the transfer box through the speedometer housing). I've followed the Haynes manual technique of preloading at about 2-3 pounds using a lead weight rather than pull spring and measuring the appropriate shim thickness. After installing the appropriate shims and attaching the speedometer housing and worm gear the shaft seems a bit tight. I've nothing to compare it too though. Thanks in advance. Jeremy Bartlett From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 04 95 Jul EDT 1921 Date: 04 Jul 95 21:37:04 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Recent Digests Peter Aslan The first rule of clutch problems on a ser 2 or 2a is to check the cross pins in the joint tube from the clutch slave cylinder bracket to the clutch shaft on the gearbox, by check I mean take them out and be sure that they are in one piece, they often break into two pieces and the parts stay in place, however the break creates a lot of backlash in the system and the lost motion results in gear grating or an inabilty to clear the clutch to change gear. If thay are broken use a long 1/4 dia bolt ie one in which the plain portion is over an inch long. Stephen The golden rule for temperature problems, First check the instrument . start checking the system by removing the sender, clip an earth wire to it and put the complete assembly into a pan of BOILING water, you will then see what 100 deg C ( or 212 deg F in the colonies ) reads like on the gauge, you will find most of them to be pretty inacurate. I once tried 20 different sensors before I found one that read 100 deg on the gauge. Steven Swiger land rover gearboxes that have been used in two wheel drive for long periods without 4 wheel drive engagement usually suffer from siezure of the engage / disengage shafts. If you look at the front of the transfer housing where the rear of the front prop shaft fits you will see a metal cover consisting of two tubes fastened to a plate, if you reve this assembly it exposes the end of two shafts, clean these up and spray with WD40 or similar and attempt to move the shafts in and out until they are free, , the 4 wd shaft if spring loaded, cover with anti sieze grease and replace the cover. Then Happy 4 wheeling. To remove ball joints from the steering arm there are a number of special tools available which work with varying degrees of success, my usual method is to use 2 1 1/2 pound hammers, after removing the pin and securing nut, strike each side of the steering arm, simultaneously with the hammers, the trick is " simultaneously ' which you will feel when both hammers have a good springback, wish I could do a drawing to aid in the explanation, after a few good simultaneous strikes the ball jopint will spring out of the tapered socket. If you want to remove by striking the end of the screw thread it is important to provide some support for the arm, otherwise most of the applied force is lost in bending the arm, Happy holiday to the colonists. Bill Leacock Limey in exile. From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 04 95 Jul EDT 1921 Date: 04 Jul 95 21:37:10 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Copy of: what is it ? ---------- Forwarded Message ---------- From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Tue Jul 04 22:34:10 1995 Date: Tue, 04 Jul 95 22:34:10 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: Land Rover products at the movies My kids have just come back (drat) from the movies. They went to see the CASPER THE FRIENDLY GHOST. My nine year old son came rushing up stairs to tell me that a Range Rover is the vehicle of choice for the female villain in the movie. Apparently the vehicle gets smacked about by a wrecking ball and nearly driven of a cliff but still remains driveable. Sounds like a true Land Rover product too me. TTFN Robin -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From CpaulP@aol.com Wed Jul 5 02:11:27 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 02:11:27 -0400 From: CpaulP@aol.com Subject: Re: Roof rack Recently tried the Yakima roof rack system for the 95 Disco. It does not work. Particularly bad is the rear rack which scratches the body as you try to tighten down the rack foot. Also, with the Yakima you cannot open the rear sun roof. It barely clears the glass when closed. I ended up going with a Thule system which works very well. From Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Wed Jul 5 08:29:11 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 08:29:11 +0200 (MET DST) From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Subject: Re: Gas (Oxygenated Fuels) Hi Some wrote about oxigenated fuel. I read the users manual of my 110 this morning in the subway. Land Rover tells not to use fuel mixed with ethanol or methanol, 'cause it will damage the engine. only my 2 cents. Franz --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de From Andrew Grafton Wed Jul 5 11:30:29 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 11:30:29 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Overland trip - companion wanted Please excuse the blatant advertising going on here, but I reckon there must be people out there who are interested or know someome who would be interested in this. We're looking for one more person to join our gang of 5 for a six-month overland trip from the UK to South Africa starting in October of this year. Presently we have 5 group members (3 men and 2 women), 2 Landrovers, a small pile of equipment and some idea which way we want to travel - probably through Eastern Europe and then down the Eastern side of Africa. If you're interested, or know anyone else who would be, then email me or 'phone me on 01509 238410 (UK number) and we can talk further. Our requirements are that you/they be reasonably fit and healthy, and have something to offer the group as a whole (a sense of humour, for example!!). This isn't a package tour so everyone will be expected to muck in with the organisation, planning and execution of the trip. The total cost of the trip will be about 3000 UKP per person, worst case, which provides an equal stake in everything we will spend on the trip. Please note that people don't need to be Landrover types - they'll learn all they need to know on the way :-) All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Wed Jul 05 07:01:20 1995 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 95 07:01:20 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Re[2]: Fuel tank leaks (from Oxygenated Fuels?) Maybe this is why the fuel tank in my very old 109 is suddenly dripping constantly. Any suggestions for a repair for a steady drip type leak or am I necessarily looking at a replacement tank? Leak seems to be a few inches aft of the drain plug -- more than a weep, less than a stream, a drop every few seconds. Thanks, Hank [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > and in some vehicles it is only the rust that stops you seeing into the > tank! Dave VE4PN From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Wed Jul 5 13:10:59 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 13:10:59 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: The Prince of Darkness, Forever (Lucus IV?) Greetings fellow sufferers of the curse of uncle Joe. As my Dynamo on my IIa diesel packed up about a month ago, I have been searching for all the bits req'd for an alternator upgrade (mostly the bracket). Having assembled the hardware this weekend, I launched into the project. Simple eh, just bolt off old bracket, bolt on new bracket, wire it up, patch 'round the control box, et Voil=E0! We've had two weeks of sunshine and searing heat in Cambridge, so the late evenings and warmth would make work pleasant. I started Sunday midday with a steam-clean, but first the radiator panel. =46rom the outset he prognosis did not look good. The first forboding sign was the attention the PO had paid to detail. He had replaced EVERY one of the 13 nuts/bolts holding in the front panel with Nylok Nuts! For anyone who loathes the removal of the radiator as much as I, this is salt in the wound. And he'd made sure they were all there, all 13, does ANYBODY use all 13 bolts? Arghhh. The only detail he missed was using bullet connectors when re-wiring, so I had to cut through a lot of the wiring harness to get the panel free. Not the three hour job I'd thought it would be, this... On to the cleaning, and off with the fan, etc. Funny, the crank pully looks odd. Someone had WELDED the pully/flywheel to the center sleeve (or tried and been foiled by the rubber insert. It was loose on the crank. Bad start. In order to remove the dynamo bracket, the pully must come forward or out. Now those who've pulled them know, it's crucial to get the crank key on the UPPER face of the crank before pulling, or the dreaded 'clink' will make you all too aware that the timing cover must come off. The weld confused the issue and I was unsure where the keyway was in the pully, but I thought I was right. Clink. Arghhhhhhh. The timing cover had to come off. So it did... and the sunny weather of two weeks time decided to break. It began to rain. Under cover of closed bonnet, I banged my head for two more hours, removing/replacing the timing cover twice more as the key would not stay in place upon reassembly (even right-side up). I finally hit it with a hammer. This worked. And the evening and the morning were the first day. The job has gone much like this for two more days now. The rain got sufficient water in the sump before I could cover up to justify and oil change... and the third replcement of the timing cover predictably damaged the sump gasket... so that's the next job. The alternator I'd procured was shot and was actually _consuming_ 2.5 amps on connection, so I had to get a recon unit. The wiring was a little untidy as well... but press on I did. It was finally reassembled (though I broke the horn connectors I'd fixed last week), the wiring reversed to negative earth, and water poured into the radiator. Ta-dah!? On startup we got voltage... and amperes... and no charge light. Was it a miracle? No. My favorite Land-Rover rule came into play. Never fix something... something else will break. It began as a fine mist: from the residual damp on the engine or the screen-wash bottle, I thought? No, it was one... nay two pinhole leaks in the front of the radiator pissing water all over my feet. Like small water pistols they pumped away. This job was not meant to be. Well it's charging, at least, and I did drive it home, but now I'm charging around looking for new radiator... albeit with some trepidation... what's going to be next? Charlie From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Wed Jul 5 13:11:02 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 13:11:02 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: Dynamo->Alternator swap The techincal side of my swap produced some genuine questions. For those who have gone before me: A) Did we ever put together a wiring diagram for patching around the control box when swapping over? I merged Series II and III diagrams from Haynes. This should be confirmed, discussed, or agreed and put in the Tech. FAQ. B) What provides feedback to the Lucas 16-ACR alternator? the warning-light connection? Just curious what prevents over charging here. C) What is the correct way to wire the Ammeter for an alternator. I've been told (and now seen for myself) that an alternator will give full deflection on the ammeter during the first few minutes of operation, and then settle down to the correct level. I was told this was due to the rectification used in alternators vs. dynamos. I don't believe it. I'm still getting a reading of about 15-20 amps even after running it for 1/2 hour. The battery shouldn't be needing THAT much topping up? D) Looking at the diagram, I tried to work out what needed swapping for the negative earth conversion. All motors (starter, windscreen wipers) are dual-coil type, so they run the same way regardless of polarity. Only the ammeter and fuel guage remain polarity dependant... or so I thought. The ammeter works either way so I would ignore the direction, I rewired the fuel guage. Much to my surprise, the ammeter reads the same direction as before with no changes and the fuel guage read backwards _after_ the swap. Any ideas? What am I missing here? It must be obvious. Anyone want to collaborate on a tech-help document with wiring diagram for this little job? Ideas and comments invited. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From Andrew Grafton Wed Jul 5 13:36:32 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 13:36:32 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Re : Overland trip - companion wanted In my haste I neglected to include my email address; A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk Cheers, Andy From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Wed Jul 5 10:21:39 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 10:21:39 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: BLOW-BY BLUES So I'm on my way to visit fellow Rover owner Nate Dunsmore and I lose power...not completely mind you...just enough to make going up a small hill a real effort. Nate showed me the "poor man's compression check" where you remove a plug wire at a time and find out which cylinder is not doing the work. Sure enough, numbers 2 and 3 were doing nothing. Zilch. I limped home running on two cylinders and took off the head, discovering a complete blow-by in the gasket between 2 and 3 as well as a smaller gap between 1 and 2. I am ordering head gasket today but wonder: what causes the gasket to blow like this? I don't want it to happen again. Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From "Mugele, Gerry" Mon Jul 03 17:01:00 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 17:01:00 PDT From: "Mugele, Gerry" Subject: Electronic Oil Leaks On June 28th "-Peter C. Parsons, " said: >>p.s. Q: Why don't the British make computers? >> A: because they cannot figure out how to make them leak oil.... :-) Well ya got it wrong I'm afraid Peter. They do build what passes for a computer. Amstrad builds an assortment of such devices...they were even sold in the US by Sears about ten to twelve years ago. And they don't need to leak oil...they can lose data. Only problem is that when you move the machine you can't find the missing data underneath. 8-D. Gerry From Biosource <0003479098@mcimail.com> Wed Jul 5 10:44 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 10:44 EST From: Biosource <0003479098@mcimail.com> Subject: Range Rover missing/hesitation problems? Anyone have a solution to a missing/hesitation problem in a 90 Range Rover (3.9L)? Occasionally the car misses badly on acceleration (or constant speed) but the problem always corrects itself. No codes pop on the dash so I donUt think itUs EFI related, and IUve run through several cans of Techron to clean out the injectors. Also, where can I buy a used cubby box in good condition (gray interior) and black running boards (authentic Land Rover) to fit a 100S wheel base? Guy della-Cioppa Vacaville, California 707-446-8461 Biosource@mcimail.com Guy_dell@aol.com From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Wed Jul 5 09:35:54 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 09:35:54 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: Speaking of brakes... In message <199506151709.MAA23828@butler.uk.stratus.com> Alan Richer writes: > Speaking of brakes, is there anywhere a commonly-available double > master cylinder that will bolt up to a Series IIa brake pedal? The thought [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > with a double master cylinder. > Anybody done this, preferably with parts I can get in the States? You need a series III brake pedistal (power brake booster included) If you have an 88, get a series III master brake cylinder from just about anywhere. If you have a 109, the duel brake series III 109 was never inported to the US, so you will need to be very careful about specifying a seires III 109 duel master cylinder. The way you can tell by looking is that the 88 cylinder is the same dia front to end, and the 109 cylinder is fatter at the end closest to the booster. The duel wheel cylinders on the front of the 109 requires a larger diameter master cylinder for that circuit. On 109s, the fat rear cylinder is for the front and the narrow front cylinder is for the rear brakes. It is reversed for the 88. I highly recomend adding a brake failure valve when converting to duel brakes, even though the US spec 88 series III did not come with it. This valve does two thing: One it cuts of a circuit in case of a sudden pressure loss so there is no pressure lost to the bad side above the valve (ie in the master cylinder) and it has a switch that can go to a failure light to let ou know that half your brake system is blown. As I mentioned before the US spec series III 88s did not have this brake failure valve. Rover's North does not recommend that people install one when switching from single to power duel systems. However, I did run a test that showed me that I should install a valve in my 109. I opened the circut to the rear master cylinder and discovered that there was no pressure going to the front circuit. Evidently there is no physical linkage between the front & rear master pistons and the front circuit relys upon the rear curcuit to activate it. Bottom line is that if you blow the front circuit you still have the rear functioning. Blow the rear and you're brakeless. Rover's North says there is a physical link between the pistons. There is not in mine. It may be that there is one for the 88 single diameter brake system, or there may have been some changes to the master cylinder design that decoupled the cylinders and caused Rover to start installing brake failure valves after they stopped impoerting Land Rovers to the US.. Other things: You would need to ether use a series III front wing or cut your inner wing to fit the master cylinder and power brake assy. You should ether switch to the series III master clutch cylinder with its built in resavour or find a new mounting place for the "tin can" TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Wed Jul 5 09:47:56 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 09:47:56 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest In message <199506161304.IAA25045@butler.uk.stratus.com> Dave White writes: > Late series III's were fitted with a dual circuit, servo assisted, brake > system. > If you can get hold of a complete pedal assy. from one of these, they are a > straight replacement for your existing pedal assy. Actually it is not. You will need to lengthen the slot for the pedal on the bulkhead. One pedal pivits from the top, the other from the bottom. The bolt holes remain the same. The single cylinder pedisatal has the return spring coming from the top and the power system has a spring on each side. This means you may have to widen the slot a very little to keep the springs from rubbing on the bulkhead. The duel brake cylinder was designed to be used only with the power booster. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From PDoncaster@aol.com Wed Jul 5 13:48:46 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 13:48:46 -0400 From: PDoncaster@aol.com Subject: SUBSCRIBE SUBSCRIBE PDONCASTER@AOL.COM From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Wed Jul 5 11:13:12 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 11:13:12 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Tie rod end question I have a dumb question for those of you who have previously installed yheir own tie rod ends. I've had it done once but Scotty did it for me. How do you tighten the Nyloc nut on the tie rod end? I have just put on new rubber boots and went to replace the nuts only to have joints spin when I get to the nylon part of the nyloc nuts. There doesn't seem to be a good place to hold on to the joint without messing up the threads. lightly tapping the top of the ends does not seat them enough to keep joint from spinning. Suggestions???? TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From "Doug Sackinger" Wed Jul 5 13:18:56 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 13:18:56 EST From: "Doug Sackinger" Subject: Alaska sightings Just back from vacation in Alaska, saw a number of rare beasts, Grizzly w/ two cubs Wolf Caribou Series II or IIa 88" SW - Anchorage, on the Glenn highway going the other way. Red Disco - Fairbanks Goldstream Valley Doormobile - Talkeetna, 7/1/95, blue, big dent in left rear, made my mouth water, went back the next morning and it was gone :-( Anybody know who's it was? Doug From "Russell G. Dushin" Wed Jul 5 14:43:55 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 14:43:55 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Tie rod end question > I have a dumb question for those of you who have previously installed yheir own > tie rod ends. I've had it done once but Scotty did it for me. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] > spinning. > Suggestions???? Ah, for one....use a new editor. I dunno if it's you or this MajorDomo but most of your messages of late have come through garbled. I had this same problem when I installed new tie rod ends and solved it by simply applying a tad of force on the bottom end (these were the hanging type wherein the arm coming off of the swivel pin housing was on top so that the tie rod end threads pointed upwards).....all I had to do was apply *LIGHT* jack pressure underneath it and it kept the thing from spinning. Naturally, you don't want to be jacking up the vehicle on these babies. You've probably got the more recent setup (arms coming off the bottom, track rod rides on top of them, threads point down) so you might have to snake a jack in between them and your frame or something...... cheers, rd/nige From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Wed Jul 5 14:15:35 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 14:15:35 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Tie rod end question > How do you tighten the Nyloc nut on the tie rod end? > TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling Do a "chin-up" on the bar while titening, if the nut is on the bottom side. Do a "bench-press" if the nut is on the top. -or- find a bolt with the same thread and run the new Nylock onto it, just to break it in. R, bg From Leland J Roys Wed Jul 5 14:23:37 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 14:23:37 PDT From: Leland J Roys Subject: Mendicino Forest Hi all, I just got back from a July 4th 4 days off road in the Mendicino National forest (Northern California). I just wanted to express how happy I am (and was) with my Defender-90. It was just weeks weeks old (I bought a new 1994 def-90) when I took it out on the off road trails in Mendicino. I had never been there before and it was great! The truck easily handled anything I threw at it. I crossed many deep rivers and went through some hairy road with deep ruts. I noticed that I tended to use Low 4 wheel drive with the diff unlocked for most of the driving. I could not tell much difference with the diff locked. One question I have is regarding the paint. I got quite a few scratches on the side paint because of tree branches, does anyone know of a way to put a clear coat or some type of paint protecter on top of the paint to help this? Anyhow I love the truck more than ever now and am ready for the next off roading! Leland Roys Cupertino California roys@cup.hp.com From Jin Kim Wed Jul 5 17:27:22 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 17:27:22 -0400 (EDT) From: Jin Kim Subject: Disco sounds like... On Tue, 27 Jun 1995, Peter C. Parsons wrote: "Disco sounds like 'The ghost of Gene Cooper with...' Yeah, your Disco and my disco must be playing from the same sheet of music. (I have a '94 Discovery with auto trans, sun roofs, rear A/C and rear jump seats options.) I first noticed the rough, unusual engine rhythm after about a week. (you know, after the honeymoon period) At first, I thought this was a normal break-in period thing. But, after reaching 1,500 mile mark, it began to concern me increasingly more. I took it in for checkup and service a few times to fix the problem. I've gotten answers ranging from "I don't hear anything unusual." to "It sounds like you have a bad camshaft." to "Oh, there is a fix for that - a camshaft cap to prevent the camshaft from sliding back & forth." Anyways, during the course of past 9 months, the camshaft was replaced, then some more 'adjustments' were made, then just last week the camshaft cap was put on. But, it still has that rough, unusual engine rhythm. It is a gasoline engine, but it sounds like 3-cylinder diesel engine with a broken pacemaker. Does anybody have any ideas? From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 05 95 Jul EDT 1918 Date: 05 Jul 95 18:23:16 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Defender in ca Dixon observes: > any Series Vehicles! They were Defender 80"'s, Defender fire > tenders (built in the mid 1950's on 107 chassis), Defender this > & Defender that! Amazing...) I have talked with the Managing ... didn't they mention the Defender bicycles Rover built? ("Life would be so sweet..." - courtesy of Django Edwards) From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 05 95 Jul EDT 1918 Date: 05 Jul 95 18:23:22 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Help with new car trouble. * engine halt while on slope * > I have a question about the new Range Rover which I purchased on > 6/30/95. What happened was when the car was on the hill and whether or not my > foot is on the gas paddle or the break the engine sometimes would just die. Well, there are of course a number of possible causes, like a faulty throttle potentiometer or a braindead ECU - but with such a new and expensive vehicle, I refuse even to discuss it. Park it on the dealers feet and tell him to get it fixed on warranty PDQ! Stefan From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Wed Jul 05 15:29:15 1995 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 1995 15:29:15 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Mendicino Forest Leland J Roys writes about his new D-90: >One question I have is regarding the paint. I got quite a few scratches on the side paint because of tree branches, does anyone know of a way to put a clear coat or some type of paint protecter on top of the paint to help this? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Oh sure, I think it's commonly known as mud. You get it in mudholes in places like Hollister, marshes along the bay, or you can order it premixed from Rovers West at $25 per 5 gal. canister, plus shipping. Tread Lightly! Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From Charlie Wright Wed Jul 5 23:49:49 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 23:49:49 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Mendicino Forest On Wed, 5 Jul 1995, Leland J Roys wrote: > I just wanted to express how happy I am (and was) with my Defender-90. > It was just weeks weeks old (I bought a new 1994 def-90) when I took > it out on the off road trails in Mendicino. I had never been there Bravo. > the driving. I could not tell much difference with the diff locked. Try it in really severe and _variable_ terrain... one wheel in the mud with the others on rocks and dirt... > One question I have is regarding the paint. I got quite a few scratches > on the side paint because of tree branches, does anyone know of a way > to put a clear coat or some type of paint protecter on top of the paint Yeah, _mud_. Covers lotsa scratches ;-) Charlie From Brian Milthorp Wed Jul 5 17:27:15 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 17:27:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Milthorp Subject: Swivel Balls Hello Everyone As a relative newby to the list, I have a couple of inquires. First of all, I'm in the process of rebuiling/restoring my '55 Series I and presently have the swivel balls and related bits & pieces spread out across my basement floor (Yes, Dear I'll wash my hands before I eat). The splined swivel pins and housings are pretty much "knackered" but the balls are still in very good shape. (no rust) I have a '60 Series II parts vehicle that has a different style of pins which are in good condition but the balls tend to be a bit rusty. Is it possible to remove the Series II pin housings and put them in the Series I balls? What was the logic behind moving the swivel pins from the top of the swivel balls to the bottom where I would think that they would be more vulnerable to damage? Oh yes, just one more thing, doesn't anyone own just one Land-Rover? Brian Milthorp (milthorp@unbc.edu) University of Northern British Columbia Prince George, British Columbia CANADA No, I don't live in an igloo! :) '55 Series I parts '55 Series I under re-construction '60 Series II parts '65 Series II Hey, at least it runs From Lloyd Allison Thu Jul 6 11:02:43 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 11:02:43 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: rover on the web Before you all rush off to visit, the site only has a list of engineering jobs, however ... http://www.rover.co.uk/ Lloyd Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA tel: 61 3 905 5205 fax: 61 3 905 5146 email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au Land-Rover From rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Wed Jul 5 19:11:02 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 19:11:02 PDT From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Subject: Re: Mendicino Forest About scratches and D90 paint: Spent some time just above the snow line early this year. The only place to find traction while pulling out a friends stuck CJ was in the the bushes. You should be able to get at least 5 deep buffings of the stock paint job before you have to get out the paint brush. This according to my detailer. He ran a lifted, ARB locker, winch equipped, Discovery and seemed to have a good grip on Land Rover paint jobs and scratches. He said he couldn't recommend a coating that would be better than the stock paint. The scratches came out real well. Couldn't tell they were ever there. Of course, the metal dashboard crowd will never forgive you for buffing out a scratch. The Series solution is to swap in a used fender with bigger scratches. This is to be taken from some Triumph product of similiar vintage and installed after months of painstaking modifications to the fender and the LR :) -Rick '94 D90 "Scratched all over, dented front fender (Hollister mud, actually, hadn't noticed the dent until I made the mistake of washing the D90....)" Richard Larson LSI Logic Corporation (408) 433-7149 From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 05 95 Jul EDT 1922 Date: 05 Jul 95 22:45:14 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Erratum Apologiesto Steve, the RR / P5 car diff has 46 wheel teeth ( not 47 as I a said ) and 13 pinion teeth, it must be counting back to front on the other side of the world that does it. ( I blame the aluminium ) . Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile.. ( with a finger missing ? ) From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Mon Jul 5 22:54:25 1993 Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1993 22:54:25 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Re: Oxygenated fuels and Gas tanks You bring up another 89 RR distaster memory. Yes. yes. yes... shortly after the purchase of my low price, high milage beast, it developed a leak from the gas tank. True, it was shortly after I found that gasoline mixed with 10% ethanol was considerably cheaper than regular fuel. Well, I was going to take a blow torch the thing and weld up the holes (Just kidding, hahaha) Actually, I called up Land Rover and found that they warranty their vehicle around 6 years or around 100,000 miles. Somehow, I convinced them to give me a new gas tank (I had to pay for the installation which was approx $70-80) Also, as they replaced the tank, they noted that the fuel pump was very rusted. As we all know on this board, we don't fix what aint broke. I suspect, letting the gas tank run nearly on empty left my fuel pump high and dry and exposed to whatever elements are in my gas tank. (theoretically, there should be fuel pump lubricants and rust inhibitors in the fuel, am I right?) With my new tank now, I fear not those cheap oxygenated fuels! I just have to sell the car before the new tank rusts through. kgb 89 RR ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From LANDROVER@delphi.com Thu Jul 06 02:09:58 1995 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 1995 02:09:58 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: IT'S ALIVE (This *is* a few days late, but then I've been driving it for the past few days..) My 1965 IIa 88 Station Wagon is on the road! I'm so happy... :) Finished bolting on the wings on Saturday morning and drove it to the Owls Head meet in Maine and back.. 700-750 miles on a truck that had not moved under it's own power since 1976! Ya just gotta love Land Rovers... Three weeks ago this was still just a frame, bulkhead and running gear with the rest of the truck spread out in my back yard or stuffed in the back of the VW camper. (I have no garage). I've been getting no sleep, but I have become intimate with just about every nut and bolt in an 88! Actually have names for a few, none of which I would care to repeat here!! So Saturday morning I was bolting up the wings when Steve Denis showed up. He helped me with the splash shields under the wings and we fiddled with the Rochester, decided it was going to work and off we went. 16-17 MPG through the Vermont and New Hampshire back roads (if I can believe Steve's odometer). Used 2 quarts of oil for the whole trip :( - leaking rear main seal. 40 lbs of oil pressure on the original guage and no hotter than 160F on a new mechanical temperature guage. The engine is from a '71 IIa and supposedly has been set up for unleaded fuel. I replaced the timing chain and front oil seal and cleaned the crud out of the pan. Silly me, I didn't replace the rear seal - now it leaks. Only had a few other problems on the trip. 1. The steering is way too tight. There is oil in the steering box, relay and swivels but I'll have to fiddle around with it for a bit to findFrom azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Thu Jul 6 11:05:55 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 11:05:55 UNDEFINED From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Subject: Re: Mendicino Forest \> the driving. I could not tell much difference with the diff locked. \ \Try it in really severe and _variable_ terrain... one wheel in the mud \with the others on rocks and dirt... When on my own, I tend to keep the diff unlocked. That way I can get myself unstuck easily (usually) by just locking teh diff and reversing out. Sort of traction fuse to save lots of annoying winching. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz Thu Jul 6 22:13:43 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 22:13:43 +1200 From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz Subject: Tie rod end question TeriAnn writes... > How do you tighten the Nyloc nut on the tie rod end? I had difficulty with the last one I changed, just a couple of weeks ago. Lifting the tie rod against the drop arm to hold it in place as others suggested didn't help, it still spun. I ended up using a hacksaw to cut a slot across the top of the threaded stud, then held it still with a screwdriver while tightening the nut. Hugh '67 IIA 88", at the welder From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 06 95 Jul EDT 1907 Date: 06 Jul 95 07:46:51 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Range Rover missing problem > Anyone have a solution to a missing/hesitation problem in a 90 Range Rover > (3.9L)? Occasionally the car misses badly on acceleration (or constant speed) > but the problem always corrects itself. No codes pop on the dash so I donUt >From own experience (rescucitating a f***ed up EFi) I would suspect you have - either: stray air being sucked into the plenum chamber somewhere; check all hoses, connectors,valves, gaskets associated with air flow or vacuum; could also be a fault with the air flow meter (sticking internal flap, bad electronic connectors); - or: one or more of the injectors aren't doing their share of work (clogged or, again, bad electronic). Stefan From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 06 95 Jul EDT 1907 Date: 06 Jul 95 07:47:57 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Tie rod end question > How do you tighten the Nyloc nut on the tie rod end? Don't you have strong fingers? Just hold on to it! ...no, seriously now: I take the extractor I use to remove the thing and apply it *upside-down*, with the 'claw' under the swivel pin arm and the threaded piece holding the tie rod end down from the top. Alternatively you could use a suitable C-clamp to hold the thing down just enough to spin on the Nyloc. 'Pre-threading' the Nyloc is, IMHO, not-so-good, because the whole idea behind the Nyloc construction is to secure the nut from rattling/shaking loose. If you widen the plastic beforehand you'd be thwarting this effect. What goes on easy comes off easy... Stefan From "Tom Rowe" Thu Jul 6 07:47:31 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 07:47:31 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Overland trip A.J. Grafton wrote: >We're looking for one more person to join our gang of 5 >for a six-month overland trip from the UK to South Africa >starting in October of this year. >Presently we have 5 group members (3 men and 2 women), Snip snip >Our requirements are that you/they be reasonably fit and >healthy, and have something to offer the group as a >whole (a sense of humour, for example!!). A.J., does this mean that no one else has one? :-) If you are interested in some armchair overlanding before you leave I can reccommend several good books. If you want more info (authors, etc.) let me know. They are. "Overlanding" written by an American who traveled world wide in a LR "Overland" &"Cruising the Sahara", both written and published in the UK Have a good trip, I'm immensely jeaous. I've wanted to Rover in Africa for years. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Tom Rowe" Thu Jul 6 08:11:51 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 08:11:51 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Tie rod ends TeriAnn writes; >I have a dumb question for those of you who have previously installed yheir own >tie rod ends. I've had it done once but Scotty did it for me. >How do you tighten the Nyloc nut on the tie rod end? >I have just put on new rubber boots and went to replace the nuts only to have >joints spin when I get to the nylon part of the nyloc nuts. There doesn't seem >to be a good place to hold on to the joint without messing up the threads. >lightly tapping the top of the ends does not seat them enough to keep joint from >spinning. >Suggestions???? The best way I found is to use a non-locking nut of the proper thread to cinch up the joint. Then remove it and install the lock nut. This has always worked for me. Can't say what the thread is though. I've seen metric, USS and a Brit thread on different ends. Some of the tie rod ends use castellated nuts (my preference) and you don't have the problem. The suggestion to use a bolt to break in the nyloc nut will wear it in , but technically speaking, you're not supposed to reuse locknuts with nylon inserts (although I do sometimes). Steel "crimp nuts" are ok to reuse, but they're hard to find in the proper thread for this application. Hope this helps. PS. Did you get your winch cable reattached TeriAnn? Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Tom Rowe" Thu Jul 6 08:19:03 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 08:19:03 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: 24 volt LR's into the US For those planning on bringing an ex-MOD 24 volt rover into the US be aware. I just read in one of the off-road mags here that the DOT will not allow registration of ex DOD Hummers. One of the reasons is said to be the 24 volt electrics. Any sold at auction can only be sold as scrap and must be destroyed (our tax dollars at work again folks). Having said that, this may only apply to vehicales produced after a certain year as I had a '52 6x6 with 24volt electrics that was road legal. Anyway, something to keep in mind. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Thu Jul 6 06:22:12 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 06:22:12 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: Leaking Rover !!!! This is troublesome !! All, On the way home from Downeast, I noticed a that the rear mudflaps, rear axle, rear door window was covered in what looked and smelt like EP90. Further inspection underneath showed that the front of the rear axle was covered in EP90 !!! I also noticed that the transmission brake drum was leaking with oil. Now I think this has even come from the gearbox (Somewhere) or the rear axle seal around diff. Anyone offer some help ?? Mark From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Thu Jul 6 06:22:01 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 06:22:01 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: 90 Rear window demister Anyone with a 90 Station wagon. I have just bought a heated rear window for my SIII. I bought it from Merseyside LR. Here's the question. It has 2 spade connectors for the elements, does anyone know if they should both be + or one + and one - ? The elemnets seem to go from the bottom and continuously work the way to the top element. Merseyside did'nt know !!!! Thanks in advance. Mark From Dixon Kenner Thu Jul 6 09:30:38 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 09:30:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Mendicino Forest On Wed, 5 Jul 1995, Rick Larson wrote: > out a scratch. The Series solution is to swap in a used fender with > bigger scratches. This is to be taken from some Triumph product of > similiar vintage and installed after months of painstaking modifications > to the fender and the LR :) Very correct observation. We would never mar an MG. A Triumph however... :-) Rgds, From Alan Richer 6 95 Jul EDT 1909 Date: 6 Jul 95 9:50:01 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Recommendations for seats? Well, the ghost of Uncle Joe has struck again... The seamstress I had making seat covers for me has irrevocably botched the job, leaving me seatless (and with nowhere to sit down either....). Has anyone any recommendations on a good seat vendor, or, barring that, does anybody know a good bucket seat that fits Rovers? Junkyard-scavenging minds want to know....and welding new mounts is not a problem. ajr From Alan Richer 6 95 Jul EDT 1910 Date: 6 Jul 95 10:06:09 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: 90 Rear window demister I don't own a 90, but seems to me that it should be one lead to ground and the other to +12 volts. You can check this with a meter - just look at the resistance between the two. Re: Merseyside: Not impressive....not impressive at all. Yours, Al Richer From maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Thu Jul 06 10:13:58 1995 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 1995 10:13:58 -0500 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Subject: Re: Leaking Rover !!! Mark Talbot asked: >On the way home from Downeast, I noticed a that the rear mudflaps, rear axle, >rear door window was covered in what looked and smelt like EP90. Further >inspection underneath showed that the front of the rear axle was covered in >EP90 !!! The good news is that you won't have to waxoil it this year. :-) If it is concentrated at the pinion, then the pinion seal needs to be replaced. If it is more evenly dispersed, it is probably coming from the transfer and blowing back in the slipstream. >I also noticed that the transmission brake drum was leaking with oil. Now I >think this has even come from the gearbox (Somewhere) or the rear axle >seal around diff. Anyone offer some help ?? This is definately your rear transfer output seal. Strip the parking brake assembly (be sure the wheels are chocked when you do this). Clean and lube the parking brake assembly and replace the seal. Set the output bearing pre load while you're at it. Once it is reassembled you will still get some seepage from the transfer and OD during long highway cruises. The only way to eliminate (almost) this is to put a proper breather assembly on the OD & transfer to reduce the pressure in each and prevent the 90wt from blowing all over the place. Buy threaded tubing fittings and matching tubing from a hardware store, and drill & tap the top cover plates. Run the tubing up the the firewall keeping well clear of the exhaust system. The vapor from the 90wt will condense on its way up the tubing and drip back down in to the casings. It also helps reduce the transfer from forcing oil into the OD, overfilling it. I really enjoyed meeting you at the Owl's head meet. It was nice to put a face to the name. Hope you can make the mid-Atlantic meet this fall. If you have any questions about the procedure, feel free to email me or give me a call. Bill 201-835-1796H 201-564-2073W (till 7/21) maloney@wings.attmail.com From berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg) Thu Jul 6 10:23:09 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:23:09 -0400 From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg) Subject: Re: 90 Rear window demister Asked about rear window heater: >It has 2 spade connectors for the elements, does anyone know if they should >both be + or one + and one - ? The elemnets seem to go from the bottom and >continuously work the way to the top element. Merseyside did'nt know !!!! Why not run a continuity check between the spade lugs to confirm it's one element. (Most likely is.) If so, you almost certainly need connect (+) to one lug and (-) to the other in order to complete the circuit which causes the element to get hot. If for some strange reason they've included two elements, requiring two (+) connections, than the circuits have to be grounded somewhere. You should be able to trace this path to ground with your eye. (And confirm it with a continuity tester/multimeter) Odds are about 98% in favor of the first option, even if it is a Lucas design. ;-} Rgds. Keep on Roverin'. JAB == == Jeffrey A. Berg Interactive Telecommunications Program Technical Administrator New York University berg@acf2.nyu.edu ================= My garden is full of papayas and mangos. My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos. Taste for the good life. I can see it no other way. --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version) == == From Andrew Grafton Thu Jul 6 15:27:08 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 15:27:08 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Re: 90 Rear window demister Have just read the top line of the post Re: demister and realise now that you were talking about a SIII all along. My mistake. Andy. From Russell U Wilson Thu Jul 6 10:38:56 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:38:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Russell U Wilson Subject: Re: IT'S ALIVE Mike, congratulations on the resurection of the '65! I can't wait to see this beast...again. ..Russ From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Thu Jul 06 07:46:41 1995 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 95 07:46:41 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Tie rod ends - tightening... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Tie rod ends - tightening... Hello Teri Ann, You may want to try using a regular nut to pull the tie rod into it's "wedge", then remove the regular nut and replace with the nylock nut. A stack of washers may assist with this... maybe not. While on the subject of dual brakes, power boosters and such, does anyone know of a replacement for a IIa power booster? I've gotten used to driving it without power brakes, but it *would* be nice... P.S. I hope your .sig is remodeled soon. The world needs us "upside-down and backwards" roverheads! Simply not enough of us... P.P.S. Still trying to contact "Mike Hoskins" in MO (USA) about a trans. He hasn't returned my calls, and may be on vacation?? #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu Jul 06 08:20:51 1995 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 1995 08:20:51 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: 24 volt LR's into the US "Tom Rowe" writes: >I just read in one of the off-road mags here that the DOT will not >allow registration of ex DOD Hummers. One of the reasons is said to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >certain year as I had a '52 6x6 with 24volt electrics that was road >legal. Ex-NATO 24 volt Unimogs are brought into the US all the time. Of course most are pre '67 (or even up to '72), and later years fail DOT, EPA, and/or (California) State requirements for other reasons but certainly not because of 24 volt electrics. My understanding is that military Hummers are deemed unsafe by DOT for civilian use much like the Jeeps are (the last also having been destroyed) with roll-over accidents having killed 500 or so persons to date. Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Thu Jul 6 08:53:43 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 08:53:43 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: Swivel Balls In message <199507060028.TAA18275@butler.uk.stratus.com> Brian Milthorp writes: ; As a relative newby to the list, I have a couple of inquires. ; First of all, I'm in the process of rebuiling/restoring my '55 Series I ; and presently have the swivel balls and related bits & pieces spread out ; across my basement floor (Yes, Dear I'll wash my hands before I eat). ; The splined swivel pins and housings are pretty much "knackered" but the ; balls are still in very good shape. (no rust) I have a '60 Series II parts ; vehicle that has a different style of pins which are in good condition ; but the balls tend to be a bit rusty. Is it possible to remove the ; Series II pin housings and put them in the Series I balls? I'm on the back end of the same project myself, though I had a profesional set up the swivel pins for me. I would suggest converting to the newer bushing system found in the series IIA and purchasing a kit. I think my kit cost me about US$50 and came complete with everything you need to remove and replace the swivels as well as all the bushing & bearing parts. > Oh yes, just one more thing, doesn't anyone own just one Land-Rover? I only own one. I've had my 109 since '78. Evryone and a while I think of getting a second, like a 80 with a Rover V8 stuffed in it, or a 101, but with three British cars (TR3 and MGBGT) I do not feel I have the bandwith for another car...Unless a big Healey or XK140 came my way. > Oh yes, just one more thing, doesn't anyone own just one Land-Rover? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)] TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From "Tom Rowe" Thu Jul 6 10:55:27 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:55:27 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: 24 volt LR's into the US Michael, I didn't mean to imply that it was solely the 24 volt. Other reasons given were the lack of padded dash and noise level. Which goes to show why I'm pretty sure it's only vehicles produced after a certain year. After all, my lightweight is used on-road (legally). The point was not to assume the electrics would be no problem. Although unlikely, they might be. >much like the Jeeps are (the last also having been destroyed) with > roll-over accidents having killed 500 or so persons to date. I believe it is only the M-151 jeeps that are prohibited, Korean war era & before being ok. But who wants a jeep anyway? On another note regarding grey market ex-MOD LR's. Al Tocci at DAP ran into a problem when he was bringing in several hundred in the '80's. When the ministry signed the contract with Rover for ser IIA vehicles it was decided that they would be built over a long period, several years. Consequently some IIA's were built after the Ser. III came out. US customs said that the IIA's had to meet the Ser. III specs. Al spent mucho $ in court fighting it. At one point his lawyer asked if someone bought all the parts to a '57 Chevy and put it together, what year car would it be. The other side said it would be the year they assembled it, in this case an '85. I don't know how it all came out, but Al did bring in a bunch. He also said he'd never do it again. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From DANCSC@aol.com Thu Jul 6 12:05:47 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 12:05:47 -0400 From: DANCSC@aol.com Subject: Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owne... you might also try this idea. My last Rover was painted for $25 with a case of drab green military spray paint. I bought an extra case at a discount for like 18 or 19 dollars, any time I got a scratch that I didn't care to look at, or some dumb-punk-hoodlum used his key or switch-blade to practice his pinstriping techniques, I'd pull out a can of "the ol' drab" and PSHHHHHHT my tears away. I never felt happier about old Lizzy, and she looked great. From DANCSC@aol.com Thu Jul 6 12:22:27 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 12:22:27 -0400 From: DANCSC@aol.com Subject: Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owne... Brian Milthorp (milthorp@unbc.edu) University of Northern British Columbia ----you wrote....----- Oh yes, just one more thing, doesn't anyone own just one Land-Rover? hey, here's a guy with just one Land Rover, and I can barely afford that, The way I see it, you cats with the Rover families at your house must all be vascular surgeons or something, I spend more time looking at my empty fridge saying, "How in the name of God do people afford Rovers?" I bought my first Rover for $800 bucks out in Cazadero, best thing I ever bought, I put maybe another 2 or 300 into her, then went to grad school, while in school the transmission went, so I sold her for 800 to a fellow in Van Nuys, (I would have kept her, but Grad School seemed more important to me at the time) Currently I have a new 61 88, and it's not that Rovers are expensive, (this is what I've learned) It's that I am poor. So, since I have the potential to be as hip as any multi Rover owner out there, feel free to kick down with any Rovers you feel are crowding your driveways... particularly series II's or D90's please, I just feel so inadequate with only one Rover! One Rover and Humble as Pooh, Dan of Rosa 1961 Series IIa model 88 Marine Blue/Primer Grey/Bare Metal Top off, doors off, windshield down, grin a mile wide! From John Brabyn Thu Jul 6 10:42:04 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:42:04 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn Subject: Re: #1Engine roaring On Mon, 3 Jul 1995 Nckcharles@aol.com wrote: > Don't know if this will help, but if your engine is roaring (reving high) .......(etc) > the engine idle sensor. I presume the LR has one. FYI, I have periodically had that problem on the RR, along with some erratic idling which is annoying when going down steep slopes in low low -- the engine speeds up disconcertingly! This has always been correlated with being in the dust for a few days. I found the problem is the idle air bypass valve (stepper motor) which seems to get sticky when breathing dust. On my recent trip to the Black Rock Desert (just returned yesterday) I pulled it out and gave it a squirt of WD-40; no more problem. Cheers John Brabyn 89 RR From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Thu Jul 6 10:46:57 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 10:46:57 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Tie rod end question > 'Pre-threading' the Nyloc is, IMHO, not-so-good, because the whole idea > behind the Nyloc construction is to secure the nut from rattling/shaking [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > Stefan > So Stephan, how much do you think the nylon cold flows around the threads after about a years worth of being on your Rover? Do you believe that screw -ing a Nylock, once, onto a clean bolt will realy cause it to lose as much of it's prevailing-torque as all the thermal cycles your Rover goes through in a year? Do you throw away all the Nyloc nuts that you remove from your machines, so you only use them once? Do you replace them all, every fall? If you were to measure the torque required to put on a nut on the fist time, the take it off, put it back on again, it would look something like this; on first time 15 ft/#s off first time, right away 10 ft/#s on second time 9.998376 ft/#s off second time 9.998374 ft/#s off second time a year later 9.5 ft/#s (this is only the tourqe to overcome the Nyloc feature) I didn't say to run it onto a tap, but you would be surprized how well they would srvive that! R, bg From John Brabyn Thu Jul 6 11:33:14 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 11:33:14 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn Subject: Re: Range Rover missing/hesitation problems? Glad to hear RRs other than 89's have problems.... (actually I think more folks on this list happen to have 89's than other years) Re the missing problem, have you changed the plug leads lately? They definitely need it at least every 30 K, and are the usual cause of the symptoms you describe. Cheers John John Brabyn 89 RR From John Brabyn Thu Jul 6 11:53:37 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 11:53:37 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn Subject: Re: Oxygenated fuels and Gas tanks On Mon, 5 Jul 1993, Ken Berliner wrote: > You bring up another 89 RR distaster memory. Yes. yes. yes... shortly > after the purchase of my low price, high milage beast, it developed a leak > from the gas tank. True, it was shortly after I found that gasoline mixed I read in an Atlantic British ad that all RR fuel tanks up to 1990 (which are all the same design) are prone to failure between the tank and the skid plate. Great news about LRNA giving you a new one! Cheers John Brabyn 89 RR From rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Thu Jul 6 11:54:58 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 11:54:58 PDT From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Subject: California ORV Web page Finally a constructive use of my gas tax dollars: http://agency.resource.ca.gov/parks/ohv/default.html This is the WWW page for the Off-Highway Motor Vehicle Recreation Division of California State Parks. Has some fairly decent info about some of the bigger parks. Especially important is Holister Hills phone number. Seems they rent out the whole 4x4 park at times to big spenders. A couple years ago Jeep took over the park for journalists to preview the new Grand Cherokee on a day we wanted to play. (Fortunately the Jeep people were for the most part cool and let us in before they had completely swept out all the journalists. They had roped off some of the most difficult trails though.....) I saw LRNA is taking a weekend in the fall for their off road class. Phone first. -Rick Richard Larson LSI Logic Corporation (408) 433-7149 From jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard) Thu Jul 6 15:11 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 15:11 EDT From: jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard) Subject: Questions for the 4th month of LR ownership I still, after more than three months of ownership, get a big grin on my face ever time I get behind the wheel of my 88. I have spent about 40% of my driving time off the pavement. This will increase once I get my MGB back on the road, since I will use the Land Rover for exploring, and the B for commuting (it burns half as much go-juice). I do have some questions though. I don't know how the PO lived with this Series III for 23 years in Phoenix, Arizona without a tropical roof. It was his daily transport for three years. He took the hardtop side windows out, so all the ventilation comes through the dash and the door windows. Anyway, I can't afford a tropical roof, but I used to work in a sheet metal shop for a living. I would like to make one, but I have never seen one except in pictures. Does anyone know where some measurements are, or can they describe what I need to do? I assume it is not much more than sheet aluminum rivited to the ribs on the roof. The tires are starting to scare me. They are dry rotted, and chuncks are coming off the tread. I suspect that is caused by the sharp lava I drive over a lot out here. I am quite bewildered by the tire selection available, and plan to search through the old digests for advice. The tire salesman I talked to kept trying to sell me a road tire. I told him I do not spend much time on road, and the mud tires I have are not loud enough to be heard over the engine. The thing I do not like about the tires I have is that they are unidirectional. I want a tire that is good in snow, will stand up to (cool) lava, and won't overheat on long, desert trips on the Interstate. Other than that, my only problem is how to finance the $1500 worth of stuff I want to buy for it (the big item being the Overdrive). This vehicle is closer to being in as new condition than any other one I have, and buying and installing the $700 to $900 in parts will get it into "It's three months old" condition. The temptation to go into debt is very hard to resist. James Series III 88 in Flagstaff, Arizona From "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com> 06 95 Jul EDT 1915 Date: 06 Jul 95 15:54:23 EDT From: "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com> Subject: Disco tow points There have been several instances of Disco's having the attachment poins fail on their brush bars during recovery procedures. I was told at an off road school in the UK that the LR brushbar was not meant to be used in this manner. I don't know why LR puts those little welded eyes on it but if you choose to use them BEWARE. One unfortunate owner removed his entire bumper this way. A friend in England sent me some serious front recovery points for the Disco and I just fitted them. It required cutting about 4" of the bottom of the Brushbar ( ends oof the tubes below the mounting tangs) so that they could protrude enough to get a hook on. These are VERY strong and look great. If your interested let me know. Mark Ritter 94 Disco Go ahead mud, make my day From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 06 95 Jul EDT 1917 Date: 06 Jul 95 17:42:33 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Tre's and ammeters. Charlie.. It is not really necessary to take the front off to fit an alternator, although it is sometimes difficult to extract the rear dynamo stud. But from your experiences it was probably a good job you did. A word of caution, the ammeter for the dynamo will not take the output from an alternator, dynamoes typically charge at around 20 amp whereas alternators can charge at between 40 and 100 amps dependant on model and on battery condition. The ammeter should be in series between the alternator and the battery feed. which is where it is if you used the old D wire for the main feed and joined the wires at the voltage regulator. I suggest you replace the ammeter with a higher rated model. note , if using one from another vehicle check whether a shunt is used. Terri Ann.... TRE fitting, ensure that the taper section on the TRE and the hole is free of grease, if necessary apply chalk. Push the tre home and either apply some load via a lever to push it in ( a jack can also be used) or put some side load on the arm. Check that the thread is undamaged, if necessary clean them up with a file. Do not be tempted to run the nut up and down another thread, your life, or the lives of others may hinge on that nut staying in place. Nyloc nuts are not designed for repeated usage. Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. From Spenny@aol.com Thu Jul 6 18:10:53 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 18:10:53 -0400 From: Spenny@aol.com Subject: Starter rebuild All, I am having an old starter rebuilt, and the guy qoted me 80-100 USD. I had expected @ 40 USD given that is lucas, and not american. other people have told me they had starters rebuilt for @20 USD my question is: am i being f****d without the decency of at least a kiss on the lips? or is this what a lucas startes costs to rebuild? Spenny From "Tom Rowe" Thu Jul 6 17:37:14 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 17:37:14 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: books Here's the info on the overlanding books that I memtioned earlier today. 1)"Overland" by Peter Fraenkel. Published by David & Charles. 1976 ISBN 0715370405 This book covers world-wide travel somewhat, but mostly focuses on Africa & the near east. Topics include travel planning, equipment, choice of vehicle (Land Rover of course) dealing with the natives, customs. Info on getting unstuck etc. A nice read w/photos 2)"Overlanding" by John Steele Gordon. Publised by Harper & Row, 1975. ISBN 0-06-011610-2 ISBN 0-06-011611-0 pbk. My favorite, very extensive, sample itnenraries for trips world wide with driving times. How to get through difficult customs, how to bribe. Acknowledgements include to BL for pruducing Land Rover #25900038A (who owns it?) 3)"Cruising the Sahara" by Gerard Morgan- Grenville. Published by David & Charles. No publishing date, but I got it new at the same time as "Overland". ISBN 0-7153-6467-7. THis book covers much the same as the other two, but of course has more Sahara info, including a 1:15 000 000 map of North Africa. It, too, has photos. Vehicle of choice? What else, a Land Rover. There's another book that is *very* good that I guess I have packed up somewhere so I don't have detailed info on it. It is/was published by VITA (Volunteers in Technical Assistance). It was written by a person who worked for VITA in Africa and covers alot of make do type repairs, like Rum makes an acceptable brake fluid. I can't think of the title for the life of me. "Vehicle" something or other, I think. Ah, found it on the net. AUTOMOTIVE OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE E. Christopher Cone A comprehensive manual designed primarily for drivers of four-wheel drive vehicles who use pioneer roads, and for novice mechanics who must depend upon their own resources in areas without extensive service facilities. Revisions reflect increased use of Japanese vehicles. 1992 Revised Edition. $14.95 ENGLISH 300pp. ISBN 0-86619-310-3 Ordering info doing a webcrawler search for VITA. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Thu Jul 6 16:22:07 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 95 16:22:07 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: wipers I have been having problems trying to replace a missing wiper arm from my 109. It seems the arms for a single wiper motor LR are readilly available but the ones for the duel wiper motor models are quite a bit harder to get. So I thought I would share the solution I came up with in case anyone else may be having the same problem or are tired of looking at rusted wiper arms. Lucas makes a spindle adaptor that allows the owners of duel wiper motors use the later splined arms. It screws onto your smooth wiper motor shaft. Lucas # 54721281 Unfortunatly, the later splined wiper arm is too long for the earlier LRs due to differences in mounting location. Lucas makes this adjustable wiper arm that fits onto the spindle above or the late Series IIA & III wipers. The length ot the blade is adjustable. You can use it as it comes for the single motor applications. If you have the duel wipers, you pull out the sliding arm, cut off the angled part and reinsert it cut off end down (opisit as it came out) and you have a straight arm for the older land Rovers. Its nicely made, looks good and works like a charm. It uses the newer common blade that snaps in unstead of the old spoon type. Lucas #WAB401/032 Bosch makes a refillable wiper blade that fits perfectly and looks right on the arm. Bosh # 40710 TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing) Thu Jul 6 20:15:38 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 20:15:38 -0400 From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing) Subject: Re: Tie rod end question >> How do you tighten the Nyloc nut on the tie rod end? >> TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling Another method that has worked for me is to use a standard(non-nylock) nut to tighten the end first, then when the taper is nice and tight, remove the standard nut and replace with nylock. Good Luck. Braman From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Thu Jul 6 18:09:36 1995 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 1995 18:09:36 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Tre's and ammeters. > A word of caution, the ammeter for the dynamo will not take the output from an > alternator > Do not be tempted to run the nut up and down another thread, your life, or the > lives of others may hinge on that nut staying in place. Nyloc nuts are not > designed for repeated usage. > Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. My stock IIa ammeter has had a 65 amp GM alternator pushing juice through it for about 8 years. The internal coil is about 10 ga solid wire, it is more robust than the wiring that goes to it. The nylon in a Nyloc nut is only there to keep the nut from vibrating off, *if* the "primary" torque on the nut is lost. It's there only to get you home. If you can't unscrew the nut with your fingers, it is working. All fasteners have a limited duty cycle. *Any* nut or bolt that has been torqued to spec then undone, 10 times, has lost 50% of its original strength. Quotes from "Fastener Standards" sixth edition, Industrial Fasteners Institute re Prevailing Torque Fasteners (Nylocs) (it lives on my desk) __Reusability. Prevailing off-torque values tend to decline with each installation. Rate of decline varies with different product designs. If frequent in-service disassembly is expected, a design with a slower drop off of its prevailing off-torque capacity might be considered. ... Nylon is most frequently used because of its rigidity and superior memory properties. However it has temperature, ... limitations The major disadvantage of free-running types (cotter pin-bg) is that when the break-loose resistance is overcome, either through loss of fastener pre-load or ineffectiveness of the accessory device (cotter pin-bg), further resistance to fastener loosening becomes essentially zero and eventual disengagement of the mating parts is a distinct possibility. In contrast, prevailing-torque locking fasteners retain a continuing resistance to removal rotation even after the fastener pre-load is fully dissipated Chemical reaction locking fasteners are mainly suited to applications intended to be permanent; they have little if any re-use potential. For these reasons, prevailing-torque locking fasteners enjoy a degree of popularity beyond that of the other two types. end quotes Here is the spec for a 3/8-16 prevailing torque bolt. About the size of the nut in question for a Rover rod end. (There are no industry standards for nuts, but they will be similar.) first on torque 110 in/#s first off torque 14 in/#s fifth off torque 9 in/#s There is a large torque required to form the threads in the nylon, but after the threads are formed, the torque required to move the nut is reduced by 80%. Putting the nut onto a good bolt with two spanners, just enough to overcome that initial thread forming 110 in/#s, then puts us into the 14 in/#s area that the little lady can put enough pressure on the taper to hold. It does *not* change the back-off prevailing-torque by any significant amount. Regards, bg From JDPUTNAM@aol.com Fri Jul 7 01:43:46 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 01:43:46 -0400 From: JDPUTNAM@aol.com Subject: RE: misc digest questions Just thought I'd put in my 3 cents worth of info to a few topics of late. 1) RE: Oxeginated Fuels; I live in one of those blessed places were in the winter months we are forced to use oxeginated fuels. They say that it cuts down on the pollution. I do believe this to be true on a gallon per gallon basis, but when I use this stuff my mileage went to hell. I have only had my 70 SIIa since march so my experience comes only from my previous vehicle, a 1990 Talon Tsi. Besides the poor mileage, when I used car would start right up when it was cold and hot, but when it had about 20 minutes to cool down it would start hard. This is a common problem with others I have spoken to. 2) RE: Yakima; Thanks for all the input on my roof rack installation. I did not end up drilling holes in the roof. I called Yakima and they sent me these little spacers that go on the brackets that help keep it from crushing the roof. I also kept them spaced about an inch wider than the rain gutters. You also need to use the Hirise kit. For the person asking how to get ahold of them, I left the number at work but they are located in Arcata Ca. 3) Recently someone explained how to change the valve guide seals with the head on. My question is can you change the guides themselves with the head still on and how do I tell if I really need to. The exaust blows smoke when it starts but not after it warms up and the plugs show no evidence of fowling. This would seem the point to leaky seals on an engine with at least 130,000 miles. Will just replacing the seals stop this? Thanks for the Help John Putnam Portland, OR 70 SIIa From Lloyd Allison Fri Jul 7 17:18:08 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 17:18:08 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: Hi-speed transfer cases Craig Murray is temporarily internet-challenged. 1. He would like some details on the hi-speed transfer-case conversions that can be done on cases with the small intermediate shaft ??? eg. ratios, who does it, cost, effects, ... I think this was discussed recently but I didn't keep the details. Can anyone help; I'll pass the information on by carrier pigeon. 2. He also thought that LRNA was on the net and/or web but could not remember the address/URL. Does anyone know more? Lloyd lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au From Peter Kutschera Fri Jul 7 09:24:45 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 09:24:45 +0200 From: Peter Kutschera Subject: Re: Overland trip Hello! Have a nice trip! If you come through Austria let me know. (There are many LR's in Austria, but it seems I'm the only in the Internet.) I can give you my phone number and the number and address of the local LandRover store (Hope you don't need the last). Peter signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter ------- From LANDROVER@delphi.com Fri Jul 07 03:24:15 1995 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 1995 03:24:15 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fuel tank leaks (from Oxygena Hank asks... > Maybe this is why the fuel tank in my very old 109 is suddenly dripping > constantly. Any suggestions for a repair for a steady drip type leak or > am I necessarily looking at a replacement tank? You can try the gas tank repair kit from the Eastwood Catalog ($39.95 - 800-557-3277). It's a three part kit - the first part is a phosphoric acid soultion which should dissolve the rust and etch the tank. The second part is a Methyl-Ethyl-Keytone solution which helps dry the tank after you rinse out part 1. The third part is a plastic type of sealant. It should seal small pinholes. I used this stuff on the tank in the '65 - it had been previously patched with some kind of plastic goop and I was worried about how well the old patch would hold up. So far the new repairs have held. A few years ago I used just the sealant on the tank in my SerIII. That held up for aFrom "Peter Hand" Fri Jul 07 18:56:12 1995 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 95 18:56:12 +0930 From: "Peter Hand" Subject: Re: On Thur, 6 Jul, mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) wrote: [much about oily bits deleted] >seal around diff. Anyone offer some help ?? Hi, I just had this happen on a SIIA. Most likely it's the last seal in the gearbox (speedo-cable housing on mine). Mine was probably due to go, the one I took out was the original leather seal (1964). Check the transmission brake shoes, as they're likely to be oil soaked. Pete -- Peter Hand Rm 461, | ph# +61 8 3034588 ,-_|\ Department of Architecture, | fx# +61 8 3034377 / \ University of Adelaide, SA 5005. | \_,-^./ email phand@arch.adelaide.edu.au | Bugs crawl in under Windows ... From Andrew Grafton Fri Jul 7 10:41:27 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 95 10:41:27 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Questions for the 4th month of LR ownership > I still, after more than three months of ownership, get a big grin on > my face ever time I get behind the wheel of my 88. I have spent about I know the feeling! > I don't know how the PO lived with this Series III for 23 years in > Phoenix, Arizona without a tropical roof. It was his daily transport [snip] > than sheet aluminum rivited to the ribs on the roof. I'll take a much closer look at ours for you if you want... As far as memory serves; The thing is an Aluminuim plate riveted onto some (5?) U shaped longitudinals (mounted looking like a C...) which space it from the roof. I don't know if the outer skin is riveted to the three roof stiffening ribs that are already there. The Al plate is in 3 sections riveted together (this is for a 109" - it looks like an 88" version would just have 2 plates) The edges are supported by bolts which run through cylindrical nylon spacers. I have just fitted a full length roofrack to one of our 109"s (no tropical roof) and was getting too hot driving round in the sun so I put a couple of big pallets on the top. The internal temperature dropped by a huge amount. This could be an alternative if you need a roofrack as well... The biggest advantage of the (official) tropical roof is the air-vents in the inner skin. They are four small hatches that open up into the space between the two skins and direct air into the cabin. Diagram(s) below. The vents are really effective at 'speed' (ha,ha). Please excuse crap ASCII art. On the cooling note - our forward-facing air vents in the bulkhead work much, much better with the spare tyre removed from the bonnet. One of the machines has a very silly looking sun-visor attached above the windscreen which sticks out about 6 inches over the bonnet. It may look silly, but it really does help if the sun is overhead by keeping it off the dashboard (which usually gets pretty hot). It bolts onto the windscreen edges and central divider. Diagrams of tropical roof vents no rain gets in (here, anyway...) Open V ------------------------------------- outer skin air flow @@@@@@ between ---> @@@@@@ pivot skins \ @@@@@@ / --- \ +---------------inner skin \ air directed into cab Closed ------------------------------------- ---@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@+-------------- Let me know if you want more info. Anyone else out there with tips on LR cooling? Minds soon to be overheated crossing African deserts want to know! Please, no air-conditioning recommendations :-) Sorry, can't help re:tyres or finances! All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 07 95 Jul EDT 1906 Date: 07 Jul 95 06:05:15 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: BLOW-BY BLUES > ...... wonder: what causes the gasket > to blow like this? I don't want it to happen again. a) overheating (which in turn can have an assortment of causes) b) cylinder head fastened with uneven/wrong torque c) inferior quality gasket or gasket w/ material flaw d) *old age* - it seems many LR owners are most of the time unaware of the time and mileage their beasts have put behind them. After 100,00 miles or so and at times punishing treatment, any head gasket can be expected to throw away the spoon... Stefan From Charlie Wright Fri Jul 7 11:45:03 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 11:45:03 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fuel tank leaks (from Oxygena > Hank asks... > > Maybe this is why the fuel tank in my very old 109 is suddenly dripping [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > You can try the gas tank repair kit from the Eastwood Catalog ($39.95 - > 800-557-3277). It's a three part kit - the first part is a phosphoric acid I don't know about the North American price, but an underseat tank in the U.K. is only about 30 pounds new... $45-$50. I'd think this was better spent money than $40 on a three-part filler? Perhaps not. Surely you could modify a newer, U.S. made plastic tank to fit under the seat? Charlie From svf@novabase.pt (Sergio Valentim) Thu Jul 7 12:33:38 1994 Date: Thu, 7 Jul 1994 12:33:38 +0000 From: svf@novabase.pt (Sergio Valentim) Subject: Help in LR Def 90 TDi Hello! =46irst of all i'm new here. Is there anyone that could help me in the shop of a Land Rover? (no, i don't want money...) I want a LR Defender 90 TDi and i=B4ve already one in mind. The vehicle is from the year 1988 and he made 56.000 Km. My question is what things in the car i have to lookup to conclude that the car is in conditions or not. Any information on LR Def 90 TDi or places where i can find it (www, ftp, gopher, etc...) is welcome. Thanks for attention. Sergio Valentim Lisboa - Portugal From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Fri Jul 7 12:33:36 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 12:33:36 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: Re: Tre's and ammeters. Thanks Bill, >It is not really necessary to take the front off to fit an alternator, >although it is sometimes difficult to extract the rear dynamo stud. But from >your experiences it was probably a good job you did. We tried it on my old IIa without. Big mistake. We ended up breaking down and taking out the panel... > A word of caution, the ammeter for the dynamo will not take the output from an >alternator, dynamoes typically charge at around 20 amp whereas alternators can >charge at between 40 and 100 amps dependant on model and on battery condition. I can see it's off scale, but the ammeter looks tougher than the wires running to it.The Lucas 16ACR only puts out 35 Amps. I'd like a bigger ammeter, but does anyone know the source for a 40-50 amp unit that fits in the original dash? Cheers, Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Fri Jul 7 12:35:19 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 12:35:19 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: Re: Dynamo->Alternator swap Michael, Thanks for the note: >The Ammeter connections need to be reversed but the fuel guage does not. But why not? Tell us Uncle Joe! >With the Delco, the ammeter deflects full for just a second and then slowly >comes down to zero. I would expect the same with the Lucas alternator.. I expect this to improve after my 650Ah battery finally recovers from a month of irregular charging. It's still drawing about 10 amps at 13.9-14.2 volts after initial settling. I'll keep an eye on it. >The only change I made was to add a #10 guage wire to the engine harness for >the the alternator output. That wire also connects to the buss-bar on the >terminal strip. I also added a ground connection between the alternator and >the engine block. Didn't think the earthing strip was required. I have a good connection metal to metal. I bought 37amp wire for the job, but I realised that the wire from the terminal block/splice (formerly the box) to the ammeter was even smaller than the old dynamo wire. I'd need to do everything from alternator->ammeter->battery with the new wire to make it 'smoke-proof', I think. There are bottlenecks in the current (no pun intended) system. Anyone know a source of 50amp ammeters that fit? A nice looking (stock looking) voltmeter for my dash? Cheers, Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Fri Jul 7 08:11:13 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 08:11:13 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Re: BLOW-BY BLUES >a) overheating (which in turn can have an assortment of causes) >b) cylinder head fastened with uneven/wrong torque [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >and at times punishing treatment, any head gasket can be expected to throw >away the spoon... I'm expecting the new gasket today for installation this weekend and have a few questions. Pistons 2 and 3 have carbon build-up on them...can I, or should I, use a wire cup brush on an electric drill to clean them up? Same goes for the valves. What else should I look for with the head off? Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Fri Jul 07 08:34:09 1995 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 95 08:34:09 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: 1-Man Nudge Bar Install All, Just put the Genuine Parts Nudge Bar on the Disco last night. Not complicated, but here's some tips: First, you are told to replace the molded plastic center part on the front bumper with the one supplied with the bar. To put the metal license plate mount on the new piece, you'd have to carve out two largish holes to slip the tabs through. Just leave it off and drill 2 or 4 small holes for self-tapping SS screws, or install rivnuts. Much nicer looking should the vehicle move to a rear-plate-only state. Also, before undoing the four bumper mounting bolts, take out just one, and find four short bolts of the same diameter, short enough to not protrude through the entire frame member. Then, one by one, withdraw the long bolts and replace with the short bolts, heads outboard, to maintain bumper/frame hole alignment. Then when the bar is offered up to the frame, insert the original long bolts, heads to inboard side, through the holes, pushing out the short bolts as it goes through. The bumper will shift easily if hole alignment is not mechanically held, and simultaneous bar/bumper/frame alignment is difficult to regain once lost if you're doing this alone like I was. All in all, an hour or two is all it takes, and the built-in slop in the hole tolerances allow you to shift the bar around to make sure it's level with the body. The bar arrived well packaged by L-R, no worries about scuffs and scratches in shipment. But if you order from Rovers North, be sure to proactively ask for Regular Ground shipment, or the shipping charge will sting! Rightside up and Forward, Hank From "Tom Rowe" Fri Jul 7 07:57:55 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 07:57:55 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: diff locks, wipers, TRE Andy Woodward: >When on my own, I tend to keep the diff unlocked. That way I can get myself >unstuck easily (usually) by just locking teh diff and reversing out. Sort of >traction fuse to save lots of annoying winching. Good method. If you use your maximum traction to get yourself stuck, it's certainly going to take a lot of work, or a winch, to get out. When I lived in VT a guy from the electric company that drove the back roads as his job said he *never* used four wheel drive to get to a site. That way he had the most traction for getting out. My signature notwithstanding. TeriAnn, >Lucas makes a spindle adaptor that allows the owners of duel wiper motors use >the later splined arms. It screws onto your smooth wiper motor shaft. Anco also makes those adaptors and ajustable length arms. I've been buying them at NAPA stores for some time. Actually the last one I bought was about six years ago, but I assume they are still available. Often they aren't "stocking" items and must be special ordered. As I recall the arms come with the little bonnet so they fit both types. What I like best is that if you get them adjusted right you can use 11" blades instead of the standard 10". William L. Grouell, >The major disadvantage of free-running types (cotter pin-bg) is that when >the break-loose resistance is overcome, either through loss of fastener >pre-load or ineffectiveness of the accessory device (cotter pin-bg), further >resistance to fastener loosening becomes essentially zero and eventual >disengagement of the mating parts is a distinct possibility. In contrast, With respect to the experts, I've used castelated nuts on all kinds of equipment, farm equip to big trucks and I've never had one fail when used in a *suitable* location. I always use a new cotter pin and put Never-Seeze (TM) on it. I *have* seen them fail, or rather come off by spanner, when they are very old and rusty and weren't originally installed by the method I described. That said, it seems as if this thread (no pun intended) may become another "Which is better, an 88 or 109?" discussion. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Fri Jul 7 14:38:21 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 14:38:21 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: Re: BLOW-BY BLUES Chris, There is good discussion in your Haynes manual (you do have one, don't you?) about de-carbonising cylinders and piston crowns. I wouldn't even think about a rotary wire brush on a drill myself. Think gentle and keep the crud out of the bores with grease. I know that BMW's official fix (for engine/head in situ) is to blast high-pressure _pecan shells_ into the pistons, past the valves... I kid you not. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From Scott Johansen Fri Jul 07 07:39:32 1995 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 1995 07:39:32 -0600 From: Scott Johansen Subject: unsubscribe lro-digest From Richard Jones Fri Jul 7 15:03:01 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 15:03:01 +0100 (BST) From: Richard Jones Subject: British Computers >>>p.s. Q: Why don't the British make computers? >>> A: because they cannot figure out how to make them leak oil.... >>Well ya got it wrong I'm afraid Peter. They do build what passes for a >>computer. Amstrad builds an assortment of such devices...they were even >>sold in the US by Sears about ten to twelve years ago. And they don't need >>to leak oil...they can lose data. Only problem is that when you move the >>machine you can't find the missing data underneath. 8-D. >Gerry, sorry to misstate the case of British built computers! I do >have an entire bucket of '1's here, if you need some for your Amstrad... >However, I just moved, and cannot find the corrosponding bucket of '0's :-) Can't see any oil or data in a puddle under my British designed and built Apricot computer (maybe I have the one that proves the rule)? :-) __ _ __ Apricot Computer Limited ' ) ) / 3500 Parkside Tel: (+44) 121 717 7171 /--' o _. /_ Birmingham Business Park Fax: (+44) 121 717 0123 / <_<_(__/ <_ BIRMINGHAM B37 7YS Richard Jones United Kingdom Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk From Jim Russell Fri Jul 7 07:15:53 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 07:15:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Russell Subject: Nylock fasteners... As I recall, the reuse of nylock fasteners is approved for aircraft applications as long as the locking device is not damaged. Could be wrong, though. Where are my A&P manuals anyway? Jim Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) From dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers) Fri Jul 7 16:17:57 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 16:17:57 +0200 From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers) Subject: Mail Order Stockists >I want a LR Defender 90 TDi and i=B4ve already one in mind. >The vehicle is from the year 1988 and he made 56.000 Km. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >Sergio Valentim >Lisboa - Portugal Hello Sergio, I have a 1989 Land Rover 90 Turbodiesel, and there are a few things you need to be aware of. First, the 1988 model you are interested is not a Defender TDi model. These were introduced in 1991. The engine you are looking at is in fact a different engine from the TDi model, as I found out later. They both are 2.5 L turbo, but the old Turbodiesel has 85 horsepower, while the later TDi has 107 horsepower. The TDi engine is a newer design that incorporates an intercooler, which the older one doesn't have. There is now an even newer TDi engine with 117 horsepower as well. The "Defender" name was added at the same time as the TDi engine was introduced (1991). In summary: What you are looking at (in official Land Rover terms) is a Land Rover 90 Diesel Turbo. This model has 85 HP and is capable of a top speed of 125 km/hr. "Comfortable" cruising speed is 100-110 km/hr. Anything more is too noisy for me. I have been told that the newer TDi's go up to 140 km/h with less noise. Things to watch: - It is VERY, VERY, important that you confirm with the previous owner that he/she changed the oil at the specified intervals. Otherwise, it is likely that the turbo mechanism will not live a full life, as it's bearings are lubricated by the engine oil, and is very sensitive to dirty oil. Otherwise, budget some money for a turbo rebuild for later (mine has already been rebuilt once by the previous owner). Other than this, they say that this engine is as reliable as the non-turbo engine. We shall see... - Look under the chassis to check for rust and impact damage. As long as the chassis is in good shape, everything else is affordable to repair, especially with an engine with low km's. - Check the engine and suspension bushes (silent-blocks). If these are worn out after only 56,000 km, then that implies that the vehicle was used heavily off-road. - When you start the engine cold, you will notice a cloud of white smoke that will go away as soon as you press on the accelerator. This is normal. - When you press hard on the accelerator to pass or to go up a steep hill, you will notice black smoke blowing out. This is normal. - Any other kind of smoke activity/color is not normal. Satisfaction report: I am very happy with my 90, as I consider it the first Land Rover that you can use for everyday transportation and travel that consumes a reasonable amount of fuel. I average 10-11 L / 100 km., which is pretty good. I would be very happy to give you more detailed information if you want, either here or through E-mail. Good luck, David E-mail > dbeers@eu.wang.com From Russell Burns Fri Jul 7 7:51:12 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 95 7:51:12 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: Tre's and ammeters. > Terri Ann.... TRE fitting, ensure that the taper section on the TRE and the > hole is free of grease, if necessary apply chalk. Push the tre home and either [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > designed for repeated usage. > Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. I thought the nylon was only used until the rust could take over.... Russ From Mike Rooth Fri Jul 7 15:48:55 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 95 15:48:55 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: BLOW-BY BLUES > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 25 lines)] > +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. > cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England Just goes to show what I've always thought.They're nuts. Mike Rooth From gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Fri Jul 7 09:04:51 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 09:04:51 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Unsafe Jeeps Michael Carradine wrote: > but certainly not because of 24 volt electrics. My understanding > is that military Hummers are deemed unsafe by DOT for civilian use > much like the Jeeps are (the last also having been destroyed) with > roll-over accidents having killed 500 or so persons to date. I haven't heard this about Hummers and don't know why it would be any different for the military ones than for the civilian ones. With as low a profile as the Hummer has, its nearly 7'2" overall width, and its wide-based A-arm independent suspension, I can see no reason to expect roll-over problems. The "Jeep" you mention, however, is quite another story. Actually, it's not a Jeep but a Ford Mutt M-151, which replaced the Jeep M-38A1. The Mutt had swing-axle independent suspension (like an Austin Gipsy) and was very narrow (about the same as the WWII Jeep MB). The only modern 4x4 that I know of with swing axles is the Steyr-Daimler-Puch Pinzgauer (unless there's been a change in its suspension design that I haven't heard about). It not only has swing axles but portal axles as well. And it's a tall one, too. I think the Pinzgauer is really neat but would sure be careful on the curves (8*0 Cheers, Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, North California, USA Several old Land-Rovers and other dubiously collectible vehicles (707)485-7220 Home; (707)463-4265 Work From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Jul 07 09:12:06 1995 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 1995 09:12:06 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: More LR Web links ______ [__[ \== [________] /^^ ___.._(o)__.(o)_______..._/^^^^^ Just ran across three Web pages (RR, Def, and Disco) on the Popular Mechanics Magazine WWW page. They compare 200 '95 vehicles in general descripion, specification, price, and a photo. The LR's are under: '95 New Car and Truck Profiles, Vehicle Type, Compact SUV's, Land Rover. The URL is: http://popularmechanics.com/popmech/auto/1HOMEAUTO.html Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Fri Jul 07 11:52:59 1995 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 95 11:52:59 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Re[4]: Fuel tank leaks (from Oxygena Charlie, Agree with your cost/benefit analysis. My car, however only has one tank, under the station wagon bed. I'll likely look for the best price on a "new" like tank. Some years ago, a friend got the gas tank of his American sedan torn open on some jagged old PSP at a military proving ground. Our hosts in green dragged him out and epoxied the huge tear. He continued to drive with that emergency repair, and no leak, for quite some time. I'm looking into some similar things for a temporary job, pending the new tank. Hank From "Tom Rowe" Fri Jul 7 11:40:34 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 11:40:34 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: increasing turbo longevity Hello all, I've been meaning to post some info on turbos for those who care. I used to rebuild them and picked up a few things along the way (sorry, I didn't pick up any turbos). First, I don't know what make turbo LR uses, but most of this will apply to all turbos. Starting the engine. Don't rev it up until your oil pressure is built up as turbo clearances are less than most engine parts and it will be the first damaged. Idealy you shouldget a T fitting and mount your oil pressure sender at the oil inlet to the turbo. It's usually the last thing the pressure gets too. Some designs though either have a check valve to prevent oil leaving the line, or a direct line to the turbo from the pump. Shutting down. Don't park your Rover and then immediately shut down. The turbo gets HOT and a cool down of a minute or two (longer if you've been using a lot of boost) will be appreciated. When you shut down with a hot turbo the oil cokes up on the shaft and will eventually foul the bearings and lead to premature failure. There are available resevoir kits that are charged with oil on startup then release it to drain through the turbo on shut down. The best I've seen is a kit that comes with it's own pump and allows you to prelub the turbo and a heat activated switch that will post lube it until the temp drops to an acceptable level. It draws the oil from the sump through a fine filter that contains a magnet. If you are working around your turbo make sure you don't foul the drain tube if it's a flex tube. Turbos must have the drain port within a specific range of angle and a clear drain. If either is out of spec the oil will back up and blow by the seals and into the engine. On it's way it will foul the impeller and if it goes on long enough you can get enough of a build up to get the turbo out of balance. Once out of balance, it gets progressively worse until it contacts the housing and will take about one second to completly destroy the turbo and possibly wipe out your engine. If you must run the engine with the air cleaner removed, be *very* careful that nonthing gets sucked in. Very small things will wreck it in short order, most intake side impellers are aluminum and fragile. This seems obvious, but you'd be supprised how many wrecked turbos we saw because something got sucked into the air intake. Depending on the make of turbo, you may be able to get a water cooled housing (like the ones used on Saabs) that will help keep it cool. If you need to get your tubo rebuilt, ask if they balance the shaft and impellers. Some shops don't but it's important. Best, if it's a shop you are familar with, is to ask them "How do you balance the shaft and impellers?" Hmm, that's all I can think of at the moment, if more comes to mind, I'll post it. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Fri Jul 7 18:57:20 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 18:57:20 +0200 From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Subject: Smiths aftermarket instruments. On July 7th, Charlie Wright wrote: * >I'd like a bigger >ammeter, but does anyone know the source for a 40-50 amp unit that fits in >the original dash? * This brings me to the following question. Perhaps one of you UK readers can respond: * Does anyone know if the 'original' Smiths 52 mm round accessory (aftermarket) instruments are still available? They were once, but last time I've seen them was about 15 years ago (and then I was a student, couldn't afford to buy them...) The only thing comparable are digital-type 52mm instruments from Equus (sold here by Halfords), but I don't like them.. they don't look British... * Any comments? * Bert Palte, Soest, Holland vortex@worldaccess.nl 1964 ex-BFG 88 LR * From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Fri Jul 7 10:06:59 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 10:06:59 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: diff locks, wipers, TRE > That said, it seems as if this thread (no pun intended) may become > another "Which is better, an 88 or 109?" discussion. > Tom It was not my intent to start a cotter pin vs Nyloc discussion. I quoted that paragraph because it strongly implies that Nylocs are reusable. Castle nuts are clearly superior in thermal applications. R, bg From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Fri Jul 7 10:12:52 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 95 10:12:52 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: Re[4]: Fuel tank leaks (from Oxygena Hank, The Land rover tank has a second skin on the underside which tends to trap water. Most leaks tend to happen under the second skin where you can not get at them without major torch work. You are much better off getting a new tank. Inexpensive aftermarket tanks of very good quality are readilly available in the UK for considerably less money than a tank would cost in the US (I once purchased a new rear and a new front tank, new front and rear drive shafts, a front wing skin, and a full set of genuine weather stripping in the UK for about the same price as a rear petrol tank and one drive shaft in the US). TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From "Tom Rowe" Fri Jul 7 12:18:11 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 12:18:11 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: diff locks, wipers, TRE > > That said, it seems as if this thread (no pun intended) may become > > another "Which is better, an 88 or 109?" discussion. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > that paragraph because it strongly implies that Nylocs are reusable. Castle > nuts are clearly superior in thermal applications. Mine either, I do reuse them on occasion. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From Russell Burns Fri Jul 7 10:42:54 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 95 10:42:54 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Nyloc nuts. When I rebushed my panhard rod with bearcans, I reused the origional nyloc nut. I rechecked it after a few hundred miles, and found it was loose. I then applied loctite to the nut every time I had to rebush the panhard rod with beercans. When I did finaly break down and rebush the panhard rod I used new nuts. I would not want to be driving a rover with out a panhard rod. All I can recommend is that if you reuse them, apply loctite, or assume they may fall off. Russ From John Brabyn Fri Jul 7 11:31:53 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 11:31:53 -0700 (PDT) From: John Brabyn Subject: Re: Nyloc nuts. On Fri, 7 Jul 1995, Russell Burns wrote: > When I rebushed my panhard rod with bearcans, I reused the origional > nyloc nut. I rechecked it after a few hundred miles, and found > it was loose. I then applied loctite to the nut every time I .... > All I can recommend is that if you reuse them, apply loctite, > or assume they may fall off. I'll second that, and add that in my experience the torque values given in the manual are much on the conservative side; I found I needed to tighten them quite a bit more to eliminate the clanking. Cheers John Brabyn From jory@figment.mit.edu (Jory Bell (prichard)) Fri Jul 7 14:56:41 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 14:56:41 -0400 (EDT) From: jory@figment.mit.edu (Jory Bell (prichard)) Subject: Re: Nyloc nuts. Maybe this was mentioned in an earlier message I missed, but if you are going to reuse nylock nuts, you shouldshash the face with a hammer, which "redeforms" the nylon, making it good as new... -jory From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Jul 07 12:22:21 1995 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 1995 12:22:21 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Unsafe Jeeps Granville, >> but certainly not because of 24 volt electrics. My understanding >> is that military Hummers are deemed unsafe by DOT for civilian use [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >profile as the Hummer has, its nearly 7'2" overall width, and its wide-based >A-arm independent suspension, I can see no reason to expect roll-over problems. I wasn't writing too clearly there... what I meant to say is 1. Hummers are being destroyed rather than sold to the public because they do not meet DOT requirements, and 2. Jeeps have roll-over accidents, and have killed 500 or so persons in military accidents (There was a big uproar about them being destroyed and the reasons given in Army Motors). >The "Jeep" you mention, however, is quite another story. Actually, it's not >a Jeep but a Ford Mutt M-151, which replaced the Jeep M-38A1. What do I know (or care to know) about Jeeps? --zip! :) Cheers! Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Fri Jul 7 13:01:27 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 13:01:27 -0700 From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: contemplated '88 RR purchase I bought an '88 RR about a year and a half ago, from a dealer, and paid $18,000. Mine had no apparent problems, although in that year and a half I've had to replace the tires (tyres), power steering pump, alternator, and repair a number of electrical problems, including power seat controls, turn signal stem, and diff-lock warning sensor. The odo fails to roll over on the 1,000 mile mark until I nudge it with a paper clip. Assuming that problem started AFTER I bought the car, the car had about 50,000 miles, probably the same as yours. Advantages of my car over yours: - drive train warranty from the dealer - a year and a half younger than yours Advantages of your car over mine: - you'll probably have fewer immediate mechanical difficulties if your mechanics are correct. - $4,000 less One question: how do you know your tires are original? Are they Michelan 205's? Compared to my deal, I'd say yours sounds good. One word of warning about the '88 year Range Rover: the engine is underpowered, i.e. you'll labor going up inclines on the road. I understand the '89 and subsequent engines are increasingly more capable. -Matt From matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Fri Jul 7 13:02:40 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 13:02:40 -0700 From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: contemplated '88 RR purchase I bought an '88 RR about a year and a half ago, from a dealer, and paid $18,000. Mine had no apparent problems, although in that year and a half I've had to replace the tires (tyres), power steering pump, alternator, and repair a number of electrical problems, including power seat controls, turn signal stem, and diff-lock warning sensor. The odo fails to roll over on the 1,000 mile mark until I nudge it with a paper clip. Assuming that problem started AFTER I bought the car, the car had about 50,000 miles, probably the same as yours. Advantages of my car over yours: - drive train warranty from the dealer - a year and a half younger than yours Advantages of your car over mine: - you'll probably have fewer immediate mechanical difficulties if your mechanics are correct. - $4,000 less One question: how do you know your tires are original? Are they Michelan 205's? Compared to my deal, I'd say yours sounds good. One word of warning about the '88 year Range Rover: the engine is underpowered, i.e. you'll labor going up inclines on the road. I understand the '89 and subsequent engines are increasingly more capable. -Matt From matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Fri Jul 7 13:27:24 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 13:27:24 -0700 From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: Re: contemplated '88 RR purchase >don't know the brand but they look big, nice, and totally new. The stock tire, Michelan 205, is a strange size, so it tends to be rare and slightly expensive, but it's an excellent tire. If the current owner replaced them with the same, that's a good sign that he cared. I, on the other hand, replaced mine with more readily available 225's, which are very slightly larger. If the same was done on yours, and you end up having odometer work done anyway, I would recommend having the speedometer/odometer calibrated for the differently size tires at the same time. -Matt From LANDROVER@delphi.com Fri Jul 07 18:22:14 1995 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 1995 18:22:14 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Starter rebuild Spenny raises his eyebrows and asks... > I am having an old starter rebuilt, and the guy qoted me 80-100 USD. > I had expected @ 40 USD given that is lucas, and not american. other > people have told me they had starters rebuilt for @20 USD > my question is: am i being f****d without the decency of at least a kiss > on the lips? or is this what a lucas startes costs to rebuild? Try another auto-electric shop. If you had gone to one that specializes in foriegn cars, try your basic auto-electric shop (You know the kind.. Been there 100 years with some 60 year-old geezer named Irv there for the last 50..) A Lucas starter is just another starter after all. For $80 to $100 US you can probably get one from England! Maybe two!! Cheers Mike From maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Fri Jul 07 18:18:15 1995 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 1995 18:18:15 -0500 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Subject: More Fun With Merseyside After waiting 2.5 weeks for Merseyside (LR Supermarket) to replace the out of spec pistons they sent I received a letter saying "With reference to your problem the acceptable tolerance on these pistons is 3.5767-3.5776 measured from the grudgeon pin. We hope this meets with your satisfaction." After having spent over $30 in phone calls to the UK to correct the problem I decided to send the following letter (trying a little Dale Carnegie technique to get the dickheads to solve the f-ing problem). I'll keep you posted as to how they respond. This sucks. Bill maloney@wings.attmail.com July 7, 1995 Michael Divine LR Supermarket Bridge Industrial Estate, Speke Hall Rd., Speke Liverpool, L24 9HE Dear Michael, First of all I want to say how pleased I was at how promptly my order was filled (at my door in 7 days). On initial examination all of the parts appeared to be satisfactory, although I would have liked 4 wrist pin bushes instead of 1, but since I was billed for one I decided to let it slide and purchased them locally. Also you and the other customer representatives at Merseyside have been very courteous. I just received your response to my problem with the mis-matched piston set. You refer to the acceptable tolerance for the pistons to be 3.5767 to 3.5776, but didn't not refer to the clearances I provided you over the phone on June 21. I assumed the measurements had been mislaid, so I left work early today to stop at my machine shop to take the measurements myself, verify the machinist's meaurements, and respond in writing. The top measurement is taken at the top of the skirt. The middle is taken at the same level as the grudgeon. The bottom is taken at the bottom of the skirt. They are (all taken 90 degrees from the grudgeon pin): Position Size Clearance Top 3.573 .009 Middle 3.579 .003 Bottom 3.579 .003 Top 3.576 .006 Middle 3.583 NEGATIVE .001**** Bottom 3.581 .001 Top 3.578 .004 Middle 3.582 .000**** Bottom 3.580 .002 Top 3.576 .006 Middle 3.581 .001 Bottom 3.580 .002 Haynes listed piston clearances: .003 to .004 I included the top and bottom measurements so that you would be able discuss and verify a potential problem with the vendor supplying your pistons. Having had a position in the past as a Quality Representative for AT&T, I know the negative impact that poor quality parts from a vendor can have on your sales. We also appreciate constructive feedback from our customers. Spending time and money on returned equipment is money lost. According to your acceptable tolerances, none of these pistons is within specification going by the middle measurement (90 degrees from the grudgeon pin). Also, given a standard bore of 3.582 for .020 oversize, the second and third pistons would have been an extraordinarily tight fit in the bores, if one were to attempt to fit them. I was referred to you by members of the Ottawa Valley Land Rover club and the LRO Internet list, who spoke quite highly of your firm. I have been dealing with Craddock up until now, but as they can be slow to respond I decided to give you a try. I look forward to your prompt resolution of this problem and to placing further orders with you in the future. Sincerely, Bill Maloney 614 Pines Lake Dr. W. Wayne, NJ 07470 USA W-201-564-2073 H-201-835-1796 cc. Nigel Fryatt, LRW cc. Ottawa Valley Land Rovers Association cc. Land Rover Owners Association of Virginia cc. Land Rover Owners Association of America CC. Solihul Society cc. LRO@team.net - Land Rover Internet List From David John Place Fri Jul 7 19:37:49 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 19:37:49 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: RE: misc digest questions I was the one saying how to fit new valve stem seals without taking off the head. Unfortunately you can not do the stem guides this way. You need a press to put the stem guides in although I have seen a tool for hammering the guides in. It looks like a punch with a projection that goes down the guide to hold it straight but Unless there is a tool to pull the old guide with the valve still in I can't see how you would do it. If you have to get the valve guides re done you can save a little bit by having them nurled by an automotive shop but that is a stop gap measure at best. You may as well take the head off and get the valves laped if you are going to the trouble of doing the stems. By the way you can lap your own valves if you really are had put for cash. Take a suction cup the size of the valve to grind. Attach it to a dowel of wood and put it in you electric drill. Put some valve grinding paste on the valve and rotate it till the shiny area on the valve area is even. One problem however is you really have to get the old paste off the head before you reassemble our you are asking for trouble. By the way, if you have the old "0" ring type valve guide seals, replace the guides with the type that takes umbrella type seals they are far superior. Dave VE4PN From David John Place Fri Jul 7 19:41:06 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 19:41:06 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fuel tank leaks (from Oxygena For those trying to fix their gas tanks. Most radiator shops will do tanks for you and it is a lot safer and lasts longer than the epoxy route. By the way up here in Norther Canada, the Indians often use a paste of Sun Light Soap to seal tanks on thier beeters and it holds like flint. Just rub the soap in the gas where the leak is and it goes like rock. It might just get you home some day. Dave VE4PN From David John Place Fri Jul 7 19:47:40 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 19:47:40 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Questions for the 4th month of LR ownership For helping the heat problem, put some reflective "r" factor film on the windows. It does help a bit. A good fan from a semi trailer or bus with the wire mesh, pointing at you, will help a lot there are evaporative units sold by Coleman products a few years ago that are actually very good. They don't use engine power of any kind. They fit on the roof and the evaporation plus a small 12 Volt fan cools the interior. The roof unit looks like a platic mushroom. Dave VE4PN From David John Place Fri Jul 7 19:53:06 1995 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 1995 19:53:06 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: BLOW-BY BLUES The best way to remove the carbon is the old diesl fuel in the air intake or cheaper use water from a spray bottle or just a coke bottle of warm water very slowly at high RPM will do a better job than all the scaping and brushing you will ever do. Dave VE4PN From UncleBrad@aol.com Sat Jul 8 00:19:36 1995 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 00:19:36 -0400 From: UncleBrad@aol.com Subject: Re: High-speed Transfer Cases I don't know much about them, but Dan Anderson, in California brought a couple of them abck from England last year. He was going to sell them, but they turned out to be just the cases with the special gears in another box. The idea, I guess, was that you would take the other gears from your own or another transfer case and put the high-speed transfer together yourself. Sort of a kit. I'll bet he still has them. I think his price was around $700. His phone number is 1-916-257-6869. Brad Blevins From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat Jul 08 02:03:58 1995 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 1995 02:03:58 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Questions for the 4th month of LR ow Andy asks.... > Anyone else out there with tips on LR cooling? Minds soon > to be overheated crossing African deserts want to know! > Please, no air-conditioning recommendations :-) A popuFrom Brian Neill Tiedemann Sat Jul 8 20:09:57 1995 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 20:09:57 +1000 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: fuel gauge polarity.. Hi all, I've been watching silently for a while now, but the 'current' thread on alternators has caught my eye. Although I own a RR, which has an alternator anyway, I have been thinking about the 'whys' which go along with altering the polarity of various parts of a LR electrical (voodoo based) system. Here goes: *The current meter requires its polarity to be switched, as its direction of deflection depends upon the direction of current flow through it. *The fuel gauge does not require a change as it is not sensitive to current direction, only to the amount of current flowing. This is because the gauge operates on the principal of a bi-metallic strip. This is a thingy made of two different metals bonded together in such a way that it deforms (bends) by a fairly predictable amount when heated. Now to make an electric gauge from this, Joe wraps some insulated resistive wire around the bi-metal strip, anchors the strip at one end, and attatches the other end to some tricky linkages then to a needle. How this works is that the tank sender is a varying resistance dependent on fuel level, and the resistive part of the gauge (which is in effect a heater element) has a fairly constant resistance, so the current flow in the circuit (and hence heat generated in gauge)is then dependent only upon the fuel level sender's resistance (assuming that the voltage applied by the little regulator thingy or battery is constant at some value or other). Now the heat generated by the element wrapped around the bi-metal strip is the same regardless of the direction of current flow, so the gauge should (if you stick your pin in the LR doll in just the right place) deflect just the same direction and amount as before if you switch to negative earth. that's it... phew!! bfn Brian 77RR (drip crunch) From Charlie Wright Sat Jul 8 13:55:45 1995 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 13:55:45 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: fuel gauge polarity.. Brian, thanks for the thoughts, but I'll re-post a few details that will confuse further... On Sat, 8 Jul 1995, Brian Neill Tiedemann wrote: > Here goes: > *The current meter requires its polarity to be switched, as its direction > of deflection depends upon the direction of current flow through it. > (needle will move opposite way for opposite polarity applied) Sure, I agree entirely. I didn't switch the connections when I changed polarity. And: It went the _same_ way it had before... I dont' get it. I've checked for earth/ground faults and nothing. The alternator isn't absorbing current. Weird. > *The fuel gauge does not require a change as it is not sensitive to > current direction, only to the amount of current flowing. This is because > the gauge operates on the principal of a bi-metallic strip. This is a I doubt this, because mine (not using a regulated voltage box) jumps around like a mad thing, always centering on the correct reading. It jumps electrically - not by shaking (ie, when the car is at rest and not runnning), and a bi-metalic strip doesn't respond with such a quick flicker... I further doubt this because the fuel guage WAS affected by polarity. I CHANGED the connections when I changed to negative earth, and the guage dropped down to the bottom stop! Switching it back, it read fine. I had assumed it was a moving coil/fixed coil device (like an electric motor) and would run the same way with both polarities, but it doesn't seem to. I've decided to stop asking questions. It works. Charlie From "Tom Rowe" Sat Jul 8 09:16:43 1995 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 09:16:43 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: fuel gauge polarity.. >From Charlie Wright's posting > > *The fuel gauge does not require a change as it is not sensitive to > > current direction, only to the amount of current flowing. This is because [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > runnning), and a bi-metalic strip doesn't respond with such a quick > flicker... Charlie, Based on your description of the gauge's motion and the age of your vehicle, I'd venture you have a moving iron gauge. As described in Haynes electrical manual #1005 these "Depend upon the relative magnetic pull of two coils upon a small pivioted armature to which the dial pointer is attached." Power flows from supply through the control coil in the guage, and, if the tank is empty, through the sending unit to ground. If full, because of high resistance in the sending unit, it flows through the deflecting coil in the gauge and this pulls the needle to the full mark. Haynes goes on to say; "There are two disadvantages to this instrument system: (a) the system is undamped and the pointer moves quickly to follow petrol waves and disturbances (b) the difficulty of measuring tank content when nearly empty-just when accuracy is sometimes most needed." "The instrument has advantages of cheapness and the readings are independent of supply voltage" My two cents worth. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Tom Rowe" Sat Jul 8 09:24:09 1995 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 09:24:09 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Gauges Oh, I almost forgot. You can tell the bi-metallic gauges because they will have voltage stabilizer. Faulty stabilisers will give eratic gauge readings. You can test them by attaching a good voltmeter to the I terminal and to earth. The meter should pulse with a mean voltage of whatever the stabilised output is supposed to be. Usually 10 volts on a twelve volt system. Ok, four cents worth. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From Roger Sinasohn Sat Jul 8 09:30:16 1995 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 09:30:16 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: Re: The guy with the foward control etc. > the us? i know many rover fanatics in the K. C. area, including JIM > merriam. any one know him?? or Bill bruce? if so write back! I met Jim & Robyn Merriam in '91 at the National Rally in Colorado. Real nice folks. If you see him, tell him I said hi. (I've got a white 109" with the plates INDY 1.) --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California From Jim Russell Sat Jul 8 09:58:53 1995 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 09:58:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Russell Subject: More On Nylock Nuts... Well, still have to find my A&P manuals but I checked and, yes, elastic stop nuts can be reused on aricrat indefinately as long as they are not loose. That is, if you can turn them with your fingers, they are junk. One thing to keep in mind with nylock fasteners is that to tourqe them properly you have to assemble them first and take a torque reading of how much it takes to turn the nut. This is then added to the specified torque reading. So, if it takes, say, 8 ft lb to just turn the nut and the specified torque is 30 ft lb you would want to torque the fastener to 38 ft lb. Also, given that on Land-Rovers many elastic stop nuts are removed and then replaced on rusty parts, there is a distinct possibility that the locking device will be damaged and while it might seem okay on the rusty portion by the time it gets down to where it is clean it may no longer be safe to reuse. But the same would likely happen to a new nut put on a rusty bolt. Using a chemical locking method such as Locktite IN PLACE OF a mechanical locking device isn't usually a good idea since once it is upset even slightly it will have lost much of its effectiveness. So, if you apply Locktite, let it set, and at some later time tighten the nut, you will have most likely lost most of its holding power. As an aside, here again you should make an adjustment to the dry torque figure when securing the fastener since you have effectively added lubrication. The use of elastic stop nuts on moving parts is not approved for aircraft. While I too have aftermarket tie rod ends with nylock nuts, I question whether they are appropriate in this application since I think this might qualify as a moving part. A castled nut and cotter pin seems a much better and safer method of securing the nut. Jim Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Sat Jul 08 09:09:10 1995 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 95 09:09:10 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: models I have for a while now been considering posting a list of the Land Rover and Range Rover model kits that have been available over the years. If enough people think this would be a good idea I"ll do it and get Dixon to post it on the Faq. Any comments? Robin -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Sat Jul 08 11:29:01 1995 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 1995 11:29:01 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: models Robin Craig writes: >I have for a while now been considering posting a list of the Land Rover >and Range Rover model kits that have been available over the years. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >to post it on the Faq. >Any comments? That would be great, and a good service to the Land Rover community! A FAQ might include past and present LR models, model kits, comments on model scales and quality, current sources, prices and availability, paint colors and paint schemes, etc. OK Robin, you're the "ModelMeister", there's no time to waste.... PS- While you're at it, maybe you can also list any Unimog models you might find (?). Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From Huw@citadel.powernet.co.uk (Huw Jones) Sat Jul 8 19:37:12 1995 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 19:37:12 +0100 From: Huw@citadel.powernet.co.uk (Huw Jones) Subject: Swivel Housing Can anyone tell me if it is worth removing the pitting on the chrome swivel balls with Emery paper (wet & dry) before I replace the leaking oil seals or should I just pay the =A3200 it will cost to get new ones on my 1975 SIII Station Wagon. Huw Jones Buckinghamshire UK From paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Sat Jul 08 13:37:27 1995 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 1995 13:37:27 +1000 From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Subject: Re: books about Africa > Here's the info on the overlanding books that > I memtioned earlier today. In addition, I'd _strongly_ recommend Lonely Planet's "Africa on a Shoestring". If you only take one book, take this (it's more useful than a workshop manual, even!). I don't know much about Northern Africa, but if you want hints about places to go in the Southern end (Malawi, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia, RSA) send me some mail & I'll bore you witless with long lists :-) For what it's worth, sII parts are easy to get (lots of broken LR's on the side of the roads), sIII available, 110 and the like probably quite difficult outside major cities. paul -- Paul Nash turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy 14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA From JCassidyiv@aol.com Sat Jul 8 15:18:16 1995 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 15:18:16 -0400 From: JCassidyiv@aol.com Subject: Winches I have a neighbor who wants to sell me a Koenig winch that he said was originally on his '70's SIII. I don't know if it works. He has it on a "woods buggy" and claims it works fine. It looks like this would be driven from the front PTO? Can you still get parts? Are they good quality. He's asking $150. I know this has probably been covered in another digest; if so, point me in the right direction. Cheers! John From rmodica@east.pima.edu Sat Jul 08 13:17:24 1995 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 1995 13:17:24 MST From: rmodica@east.pima.edu Subject: Cooling Down a LR Some thoughts on how to keep a Land Rover a bit more comfortable in the Arizona heat (or anywhere else). Speaking from 20 years of experience living in Tucson where the summer temperatures commonly hit 110 F day afetr day there is NO way to keep from roasting in a Land Rover, but a few things seem to help. 1) The best heat reduction technique I've ever found is to coat the top of the tropical roof with a white reflective house roof coating. This paint-like stuff does a super job of cooling down the sheet metal top. You can place your hand on the coated surface when its 110F and not even feel the heat. Here in Tucson the product is sold by a local paint manufacturer as "KoolKoat" but the same stuff is also made by Sinclair Paint and Dupont. It really works and the white color pretty much matches the original top. 2) Try insulating the under seat tool box. A LOT of heat comes up through the floor from the exhaust system. I used styrofoam scraps glued to the inside of the box. That cost some space but really cooled down my rear end and lower legs. 3) Insulate the footwells, especially the area adjacent to the gas pedal. I used a combination of thick plush carpet (that's all through my 109) and closed cell foam. Keeps the right foot cool(don't know about LROs in the UK, but I doubt you get your left foot roasted in the summer anyway). 4) Insulate the floorboards. Once again a LOT of heat comes up through the bottom. Carpeting and styrofoam work well. 5) I made a sheet metal shield for exhaust system where it passes under the drivers area. Simply curved a piece about 24" wide and riveted a couple of braces to attach to the tail pipe. Seems to help some and doesn't get in the way. 6) As discussed in recent threads - glue closed cell foam to the underside of the roof. My next project when I put in a new headliner. Glueing foam to the underside of the hood (bonnet) should also help reduce heat coming into the vehicle. James Howard. --Try calling Rovers West (602)748-8115 for a used tropical roof and roof vents. I thought I saw a t-roof lying about their yard. Any LROs in Arizona that want to start a list of LROs let me know. So far I've gleaned about 8 from reading the Digest. Should we form a group? or a pride? or a gaggle? or a society? Rob Modica 51 SI80" 60 109" Safari 94 Disco 5spd Tucson AZ From Andy Dingley Sat Jul 08 11:19:47 1995 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 95 11:19:47 From: Andy Dingley Subject: Alternators & voltmeters > I can see it's off scale, but the ammeter looks tougher than the wires > running to it.The Lucas 16ACR only puts out 35 Amps. I'd like a bigger > ammeter, I'd throw away the ammeter (OK then, squirrel it away in the spares skip) and fit a voltmeter instead. For a vehicle with an alternator, this is much more useful. If everything works, there is little need for either - the regulators should handle everything, and so a meter is mainly a fault detecting and diagnostic device. A voltmeter tells you much more about alternator faults than an ammeter, especially over-charging or battery condition. Dynamos don't charge at slow speeds, so the main function of an ammeter is to inform you as the dynamoe cuts in & out. An alternator will be charging at anything over a slow idle. -- Andy Dingley dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Speed kills, but Bull Bars enable you to kill at lower speeds From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 8 95 Jul EDT 1920 Date: 8 Jul 95 20:25:22 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: I'm worried..... I think I have a problem in my engine rebuild. I put the crank back in, after waiting a week for Atlantic British to replace a defective oil seal...twits! The bottom line is this: The crank in its new, lubricated bearings is so stiff that I can't turn it without a short bar between the flywheel bolts. All of the bearings passed Plastigage muster. I'm just worred that something's cocked .00000001 in there somewhere and I can't find it.... Please tell me I'm worrying for nothing and that it's OK... alan From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Sat Jul 08 18:21:55 1995 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 1995 18:21:55 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Swivel Housing Oil Seals revisited Huw Jones writes: >Can anyone tell me if it is worth removing the pitting on the chrome swivel balls with Emery paper (wet & dry) before I replace the leaking oil seals or should I just pay the =A3200 it will cost to get new ones on my 1975 SIII Station Wagon. Depends on how bad they're pitted and where. My swivel balls had shallow surface pitting on the top of the balls only. This was caused by dirt and mud buildup on the top, and the general lack of lubrication to the top surfaces of the balls while in service. I chose to clean them up and fit on new seals with leather gaiters. My reasoning was that the new seals will reasonably seal the bottom of the balls to keep the oil from flowing out. During operation of the vehicle oil will splash to the top of the ball and I should loose some to the outside of the seal. However, the amount would be minimal and to some extent desireable since I want to keep the outside of the ball lubricated to prevent dirt buildup and to prevent further pitting. To aid in the preventon of direct dirt contact with the balls, I fitted gaiters which also need to be kept lubricated. Some people argue that gaiters actually trap moisture and aid pitting, I disagree. Normal servicing or additional topping up of the swivel balls with oil before and after heavy off-highway use should take care of any lost oil. If your swivel balls are pitted at the bottom, I'd suggest just replacing them with new units and embarking on a maintenance program to prevent further pitting. Naturally you'll wantFrom RICKCRIDER@aol.com Sun Jul 9 06:49:20 1995 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 06:49:20 -0400 From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Subject: Re: BLOW-BY BLUES Dave..... Would you please elaborate on the diesel fuel or water decarbonization process. I've never heard of it. Was told at last servicing on the Range Rover that I may want to consider decarbonization at some point in the future. (Currently at 94,000 miles) Wonder what 'method' he had in mind. Thanks. Rick Crider '66 SIII 109" '73 SIIa 88" '88 Range Rover From "Tom Rowe" Sun Jul 9 09:09:33 1995 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 09:09:33 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: models > I have for a while now been considering posting a list of the Land Rover > and Range Rover model kits that have been available over the years. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > Any comments? > Robin Sure, I'd be interested. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Tom Rowe" Sun Jul 9 09:45:05 1995 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 09:45:05 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Winches > I have a neighbor who wants to sell me a Koenig winch that he said was > originally on his '70's SIII. I don't know if it works. He has it on a [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > asking $150. I know this has probably been covered in another digest; if so, > point me in the right direction. The Koenig model that fits the LR is no longer made, nor are parts available from Koneig. I called them about 8-10 years ago and the person I spoke with said they were putting together an inventory of all the leftover parts in preperation to selling them off. I asked for a list when they got it together as I was interested in buying them. I never heard back, I assume they sold them to a guy in Florida that they had sold discontinued parts to before. $150.... go for it if you need a winch. If the housing is ok, not cracked, there isn't much else to go wrong. Much of the insides are standard shafts & gears that you can get from any place that sells power transfer components. There are a couple of special gears inside so I guess if you want to be sure you could open the case and examine them. These are good winches, and if I had the oportunity, I'd buy it for 150, but then, I have one so if it were defective I could always consider it a parts winch. Actually, if you decide not to get it, let me know. These winches were also driven from a center PTO via a shaft, and were available as hydraulic driven winches and the one you are considering can be fairly easily converted to hydraulic if you desire. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Sun Jul 09 09:26:44 1995 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 1995 09:26:44 -0500 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Subject: Re: I'm Worried Alan asked about his engine rebuild: >The bottom line is this: The crank in its new, lubricated >bearings is so stiff that I can't turn it without a short bar >between the flywheel bolts. Before you start to worry - 1. Are #1 & #2 main bearing caps in their right positions (they should be marked)? 2. Are all the bearing caps positioned the right way around (tabs on the same side)? 3. Ditto for the rod bearings & rods & caps. 4. Did you thoroughly clean the bearing shells with a solvent, as well as the the surfaces where they sit? 5. Are you using undersized bearings (they would be marked) with a standard crank? (oops! forgot - you plastigaged them) 6. Did you use Lubriplate or some other pre-lube grease on the bearing shells? If you do this it will hold a crankshaft in place like glue. Just use plenty of clean oil and pre-lube it before starting. 7. Are your pistons tight in their bores if you have the connecting rods bolted on? Did you check the ring clearance in the bores? If you have checked all of the above, then I would start to worry. Good luck! Bill maloney@wings.attmail.com From "Tom Rowe" Sun Jul 9 12:15:19 1995 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 12:15:19 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Alternators & voltmeters Andy Dingley wrote; > I'd throw away the ammeter (OK then, squirrel it away in the spares skip) > and fit a voltmeter instead. For a vehicle with an alternator, this is [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > more about alternator faults than an ammeter, especially over-charging > or battery condition. For the most part I agree with you Andy. If I had to choose, I'd go with the voltmeter. But if you have room, both are useful for diagnostics. With engine running, a volt-meter will register 13-15+ volts all the time (assuming a 12 volt system) but once you overcome the discharge from starting, an ammeter should register right around 0. In other words, the alternator should be keeping up with the electrical system's demand. If, on the other hand, you later add a lot of electrical accessories that over-tax your alternator, i.e. constantly drawing more than the alternator can put out, the ammeter is the best for telling you that. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From JDolan2109@aol.com Sun Jul 9 20:39:12 1995 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 20:39:12 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Fwd Msg: Road Rovers; 4 sale Saw this on the Rovernet (cars), thought someone here might be interested. '''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''''''''' Subj: -RoverNet- Old Rovers for sale From JDolan2109@aol.com Sun Jul 9 20:39:24 1995 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 20:39:24 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Owl's Head & 'wheel goo' Had a wonderful time at Owl's Head. Trevor and wife Mary came over the night before from Grimsley and we convoyed over via back roads through Maine and NH. Trevor has devised a quite remarkable, (well, very practical, at least!) map box/contraption that scrolls the route as you proceed. We went via unnumbered/unnamed/unpaved roads and if we were lost, I never knew it! Old roads!!! The folks at East Coast Rovers (Mike Smith) certainly worked hard to make it a successful event. And Myles Murphy did more than he would probably acknowledge, too! I missed most of the off road day, as I found a P5 that I was able to salvage parts from, but what I saw was fun!!. So, anyway it was at the campground that I think I began finalising my (latest) theory: Is it possible that the substance that exudes from the steering wheel on those damp mornings could actually be what I'm beginning to call "dead lustre"? I find it a strong coincidence that the paint fades and goes flat at just about the same time that this substance begins to appear. Perhaps there is some sort of electro-osmolytical dynamic going here with the aluminum and paint shine via the positive ground of the earlier series vehicles? Just thought I'd ask. See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! P.S. We're going to begin testing this substance as a shoe waterproofer. Gotta wipe it somewhere, and it doesn't wash off too easy, so who knows... From EvanD103@aol.com Sun Jul 9 23:17:12 1995 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 23:17:12 -0400 From: EvanD103@aol.com Subject: Re: Pitted Swivel Balls My swivel balls had several small, albeit fairly deep, pits. I cleaned out the rust, filled the pits with epoxy (trade name "JB Weld"), and sanded them smooth. So far so good. The seals seem to appreciate having a smooth surface to move over! Give it a try. It's lots cheaper than new parts if the pitting isn't too severe. From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sun Jul 09 23:32:19 1995 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 1995 23:32:19 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Winches > I have a neighbor who wants to sell me a Koenig winch that he said was > originally on his '70's SIII. I don't know if it works. He has it on a > "woods buggy" and claims it works fine. OK.. if it's on a "woods buggy" and the vehicle runs, you should be able to see if it works.. > It looks like this would be driven from the front PTO? Can you still get parts? Are they good quality. He's asking $150. The usual setup is to drive the winch from the front of the crankshaft. To mount the Koenig, you have to remove the starter dog nut from the crankshaft and install a special nut that secures the Koenig drive shaft. There also is a version that is driven from the PTO at the rear of the transfer case. If this "woods buggy" is not a Land Rover then make sure that your neighbor has all the correct mounting pieces. I don't think that parts are being manufactured for this winch anymore, although you can probably match up bearings at a bearing supply house if need be. $150 is an excellant price if the winch works. THe Koenig was probably one of the best winches made for the Land Rover - the only drawback being that your engine has to be running for the winch to work. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (On the Road!) 7 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern") #:-}> 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts) From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Sat Jul 10 00:14:15 1993 Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1993 00:14:15 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Re: Swivel Housing As for swivel housing pitting, yes. yes. yes... I had that problem too. However I have good news for you which will save you hundreds of . For pitted swivel housings, take a steel brush and clean out the rust. Then take epoxy and fill the holes. When dry, take a high speed fine sander and smooth out the ball the best you can. Replace your seals and fill with oil. When you replace the seals, be sure to check the integrity of the CV joint. Sure the fixed housing might leak oil slowly, but that's the best you can do with british machinery. I think the new housings probably leak oil too. You're supposed to replace the oil in the swivel housings every so often anyway. Hope this helps. kgb 89 RR ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Mon Jul 10 15:03:13 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 15:03:13 +0930 From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Subject: Photos of Landies in OZ Someone (lloyd@c.monash.edu.au) was asking about pictures of Landies in OZ for the WWW. What sort of photographs do you want. My husband Chris and I belong to the Land Rover Register of SA. Chris is a photographer and he always takes photos at every club trip we go to, as well as any private trip we take. Our regular club trips include Blinmin (Flinders Ranges), Morgan (River Murray), Robe (South East Coast), Geranium and Peake (nowhere in particular but very sandy). We have also been along the Great Ocean Road (Victoria), Ngarkat (border of SA and VIC), Big Desert and Little Desert (Victoria), Burra Creek Gorge (SA). A friend of ours has been through Alice Springs up to the Northern Territory and back and has some great photos. Is there anything in particular you are looking for? Tiffany Downing (tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au) Owner of a well loved Series IIA, Long wheel base, Ex-Army, Soft-top, (anything else you want to know) Land Rover. Hopefully upgrading to a 110 soon!!!!! YEAH!! From Brian Neill Tiedemann Mon Jul 10 17:20:31 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 17:20:31 +1000 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: gauges.... OK, told you voodoo was Joe's primary electrical system of laws, but my ramblings of yesterday are true of at least RR gauges (well some of them). My 77 had this type of bi-metal movement used for its coolant temp, oil temp, fuel, and oil pressure gauges, but the voltmeter and clock ( ;) ) are not the same (mine has no ammeter). I have pulled apart and repainted and fiddled with all, so I am sure. (now all are situated across dash centre, as I have a Brian adapted Hillman GT -I think- tach with modified needle + surrounds in the LHS of binnacle- where fuel + temp used to be). Note also that the replacement temp and fuel gauges that I have used are a Smiths item from a Triumph (2500pi I think). These are compatible and the fascia matches a RR's, but the black bezel (ring) around the outside is different. I used some from dead RR gauges to make a perfect match. See the crude ascii x-sections below. Triumph gauge face seen from side: |\_______/| ^glass RR (early) gauge face from same : /\_______/\ ^bezel Tach Speedo My dash now looks like: / / glove comp _________ / =// \<#>/ \\ _________________________________________:| Q |#| Q |:_____ / "" \___________/ "" """"""" "" \\\_/_#_\_/// "" \ | (*) 0 0 0 0 0 (*) ---------- [] | 10 95 Jul EDT 1909 Date: 10 Jul 95 9:40:27 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Handy Rover Hint - Recovering door handles Due to a personal restriction, I ended up working on small bits on my Rover, and discovered a useful tip. Stop me if you've heard this one... The rubber-covered door handles on my 109 were really shabby-looking and cut up, so I went scavenging for a substitute. Lo and behold, I actually found one... There is a canned concoction called Plasti-Dip that is sold for covering tool handles and such here in hardware stores. It's basically liquid, air-hardening plastic in a toluol base. This stuff looks just like the original Rover handle plastic!. What you do to apply it is to cut off all of the old handle plastic with a razor knife, then clean up the underlying metal surface with whatever comes to hand (Scotch-Brite pads are good for this). Then, the handle is dipped into the Plasti-Dip and removed slowly, then hung up to harden. 3 or 4 iterations of this are required to build up enough thickness for long use. If it strikes your fancy, the Plasti-Dip is also available in colors other than black, if red or green or blue handles suit you.... Alan From Brian Neill Tiedemann Mon Jul 10 23:49:46 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 23:49:46 +1000 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: oops. Hello again, After all that lovely artwork (cough) in my previous post, I left the most important part out... the question. My (2 door) rangie has a flat, textured rubbery panel forming the front part of the top open glove compartment on the left hand side of the dash. Late four door models have a 'panic handle' here. I would like to get one of these for mine. I believe that they will directly interchange with the plain panel which I currently have. As late models are scarce at the wrecking yards here, could anyone point me to where I may find one, or would anyone who has one like to sell or swap it (handle not late model RR complete!). My vehicle is used off road a lot and passengers often want something to hang on to.... If anyone can give me the part # or price from UK for the handle (to suit RH drive) this would also be appreciated. Couldn't cost too much to ship. BTW where does one obtain the mystic "parts book" with all those pretty exploded views and part #s for every itty bitty thing?? seeya Brian 77 RR (grind) From "Tom Rowe" Mon Jul 10 09:01:16 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 09:01:16 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Handy Rover Hint - Recovering door handles Alan Richer writes; > There is a canned concoction called Plasti-Dip that is sold for > covering tool handles and such here in hardware stores. It's > basically liquid, air-hardening plastic in a toluol base. This stuff > looks just like the original Rover handle plastic!. Great stuff that Plasti-Dip. When it first came out, it was in short fat cans that had *very* liitle ability for having much dipped in them. They wised up and use taller cans now. It's also available in spray cans. I use it on my electrical switches. I attach 6" lengths of wire to the switches and then seal the switch and connection in Plasti-Dip. Keeps them from corroding, and I figure that if the connection on the end of the wire corrods I can cut it back a bit and attach a new connector. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Mon Jul 10 10:03:03 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 10:03:03 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Fuel Tank Repair Experience? All, Per the list's suggestion, I have identified a local radiator shop that also repairs fuel tanks. **Are there any pitfalls pecular to a genuine Series II tank that may cause the shop difficulty in repairing the slow drip?** This is a LHD 1960 Ser II 109 petrol safari (2.25l) with the (original) sole fuel tank under the bed, just forward of rear frame member. Thanks in advance, Hank From "Tom Rowe" Mon Jul 10 09:51:45 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 09:51:45 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Repair Experience? hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com wrote: > Per the list's suggestion, I have identified a local radiator shop > that also repairs fuel tanks. **Are there any pitfalls pecular to > a genuine Series II tank that may cause the shop difficulty in > repairing the slow drip?** Hank, The only pitfall to gas tank repair that I've come across is that in Virginia, and maybe other states as well, if the vehicle inspection folks know you've repaired your gas tank they won't pass the car. I'd make sure it's allowed in your neck of the woods. Just because the shop will do it doesn't mean it's ok. As I've discoved from experience. I've welded my own tanks, quite dangerous if you don't know what you're doing (!BOOM!). I have a leaky one now and I'm just going to make a stainless tank and never have to deal with it again. As far as LR tanks go, the underseat tank's skid-plate/support is soldered to the tank (does the 109 have that, I can't remember). This may be a problem if they have to remove it to repair the leak. Depending on their method of repair, the heat required may not go well with the repair. But they should be able to tell you that. Good luck, Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From DANCSC@aol.com Mon Jul 10 12:03:44 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 12:03:44 -0400 From: DANCSC@aol.com Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Dail... Jim Dolan wrote: In regards to the curious secretion from older steering wheels, I personally thought all this time that it was condensation from all the fog up here in the Bay Area, combined with the fact that I have never kept a top on one of my Rovers for more than about 10 minutes. I used to really enjoy coming out bright and early to smear the "Wheel Flen" all over my body, and dance naked under the early morning moonset. I've found that the God of Lucas Electrics is usually appeased by this sort of behaviour. You might try this yourself at home. Another possible use is to call it Rover Hash, and by rubbing your hands consistantly around the steering wheel to gather the oil, then using friction between the palms of your hands, heat this oil up to form a solid lump, this lump can be eaten with toast, and organic apple butter, this completes the Rover food chain, Rover eats oil, Rover eats savings account, You eat Rover oil, You are Rover... and so on, this all comes back to the theory of everything Zen. I have also heard of certain members of the Gen X crowd smoking this sacred oil around campfires, particularly on the Left Coast where this sort of activity is considered to be a cleansing and enlightening ritualistic experience. In light of this new information, I ask that you reconsider the concept of using this Rare and Valuable natural resource as a Boot Oil, and Join us in true Rover Fashion, and remember, as Dick Land Rover said, back in 1967 while on Safari in the Serengeti, "If not for the soil of my steering wheel, I'd not be alive today..." (This statement followed a nearly fatal Lion Mauling which was only thwarted by making an offering of the sacred oil to the Lion King). Cheers! Dan of Rosa 1961 series IIa model 88 Marine Blue, Primer Grey, and Bare Metal doors off, windshield down, grin a mile wide! From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Mon Jul 10 12:28:24 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 12:28:24 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Valve Job Advice Please Thanks to everyone who responded to my head gasket blow-by post. Got the head back on yesterday...complete with new gasket...and it runs fine (four cylinders always work better than two), except..... ...Lots of smoke when I rev the motor and clicking sounds coming from within. YIKES. The valves looked pretty toasted, but I cleaned them up (no wire brushes on the high speed drill, thank you) and reinstalled the head. So...I just ordered the whole shooting match--intake and exhaust valves and all the fixings to go along with them. Now, should I take the complete head to the machine shop or can I...more like, should I...do some of this work myself? Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From Andrew Grafton Mon Jul 10 18:20:23 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 18:20:23 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Valve Job Advice Please > ...Lots of smoke when I rev the motor and clicking sounds coming from > within. YIKES. The valves looked pretty toasted, but I cleaned them up (no My only experience with clicking sounds + smoke has been on a diesel, but it wasn't valves - it was a couple of broken rings wearing their way through the piston lands, finally sticking up and tapping on the head! Sorry no good hints on head rebuilding, as I haven't done enough to work out the tricks, but it was pretty easy to change the valve guides, seals etc. once we had made the right drifts. Grinding the valves in was a real pain but very satisfying when the paraffin leak test produced nothing after 24 hours! Try it yourself? Very satisfying and passers-by can help with the valve lapping ;-) Valve seat recon. is a bigger job I haven't undertaken yet. Ditto for rocker assembly restoration. All the best, Andy From Andrew Grafton Mon Jul 10 18:23:22 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 18:23:22 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Re : BLOWBY BLUES > The best way to remove the carbon is the old diesl fuel in the air intake > or cheaper use water from a spray bottle or just a coke bottle of warm > water very slowly at high RPM will do a better job than all the scaping > and brushing you will ever do. Dave VE4PN Would you elaborate, Dave? I'm not sure what you are getting at here and it sounds like a good hint for future reference. It's just that I'd tend to shy away from pouring anything water-like into our diesel inlet manifold. [I know the original question was about a petrol, where presumably you trickle water into the carb. inlet?] Would it do the job on a diesel, too, without wrecking it? All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From Charlie Wright Mon Jul 10 18:46:04 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 18:46:04 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Valve Job Advice Please On Mon, 10 Jul 1995, Chris Stevens wrote: > So...I just ordered the whole shooting match--intake and exhaust valves and all the fixings to go along with them. Now, should I take the complete head to the machine shop or can I...more like, should I...do some of this work myself? Well, yes, you can. I guess it's a question of value. Value for money, value of your time, value (and trust) you place in your machine shop's skills (or yours). I did my valves. It was a minor pain. I later had to have the exhaust valve seats re-cut by the shop anyway. It's not difficult. It requires grinding paste and the suction cup. I wouldn't recommend a rotary drill here, but it might be ok. I was told the occilating motion when done by hand was better for grinding them in. I have also been told there is a device that fits your high-speed drill that will reproduce this motion (doing it by hand is the minor pain I spoke of... ) On the other hand, you could let the shop clean it up, check the guides and seals and everthing... and set the whole thing up. If I had had the cash to hand, I probably would have. Good luck, Charlie From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Mon Jul 10 10:50:05 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 10:50:05 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: RE: misc digest questions > You need a press to put the stem guides in although I have seen a tool for > hammering the guides in. > having them nurled by an automotive shop but that is a stop gap measure at > best. > replace the guides with the type that takes umbrella type seals they are > far superior. Dave VE4PN 1) A length of 5/16th threaded rod, two nuts, flat washers, and a deep socket will pull them out and pull the new ones in. Use a penetrating lube when pulling out, use anti-sieze going in. Grease the rod and nuts. (It's OK to hammer the old ones out.) 2) There are those who believe that a knurled guide is better than a new one because the little groves trap oil, lubeing the stem. The valve seal is what keeps too much oil from getting by. I would not want to state a general rule, there are a lot of variables. 3) A good machine shop can cut the top of the stems to accept TRW teflon valve seals. This can be done with the head in situ. The machine shop will have the special cutters, so they cut the guides after installing them in the head. (or) You can cut new guides for the TRW seals, on a lathe, before installing them. This is a very good modification. TRW teflon valve seals to fit LR 2 1/4L: Intake TRW VP46 Exhaust TRW VP66 R, bg From matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Mon Jul 10 12:02:38 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 12:02:38 -0700 From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: Re: contemplated '88 RR purchase >from all that i have heard, it just seems like RR's are maintenance >nightmares! I guess you might say that. Many areas of the vehicle could have been better designed and better built, particularly engine accessories like pumps and alternators. However, I believe in principal there are some areas, in the drive train especially, that are designed very carefully to not break down no matter what you subject them to (provided they are periodically maintained), and if they do break down, they're supposed to be field fixable. >did you take yours into dealers or independent mechanics when you had >work done? I just moved to San Diego, and I've noticed there are several indepenent mechanics here that I'll try. Formerly, I lived in the mountains near Reno Nevada, and my only choice was the dealer in Reno. The dealer was expensive and occasionally made horrendous mistakes, just like you'd expect from a dealer, but he was primarily a Cadillac dealer, which comes under the Mr. Goodwrench umbrella, so for the most part he was trustworthy. Some of the maintenance expense can be attributed to the rarity of mechanics, who have to travel to the U.K. for training. Some can be attributed to the fact that parts are typically flown from overseas as needed. I understand your reasoning that favors the older Range Rover, and I agree. If one of your choices were a 1990 or newer, it would be harder to decide, because my impression is that overall quality was stepped up considerably thereabouts. However, one caution about an older vehicle whose history is less well known: I believe there's a tendency for parts of the steel frame to rust in places that are hard to spot. That's one area where a newer vehicle that's been garaged might have a considerable advantage. I would definitely have that checked by a mechanic if you can. -Matt From DANCSC@aol.com Mon Jul 10 16:12:11 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 16:12:11 -0400 From: DANCSC@aol.com Subject: 1961 88 "Project?"(looky here!!) Hey Rover friends! Dan of Rosa here... I've been doing some thinking, and last week sometime I thought I saw a blip about some chap looking for a series "Project" car, looking for a nice body, didn't have to run, in the 3grand range... I am currently trying to fanagle a D90 out of Land Rovers of North America. I am trying to use my Degree in Advertising and Photography to back me up... Sadly, when Liz,(my first Rover) and I were in L.A. all of my camera equiptment was stolen. In order to swing my end of the deal with the Rover Suits, I'll need some new equiptment, and the only thing I have worth any money would be my Rover... Naturally I would prefer not to sell her, she is my only car, and after busting my rocks for the past several months putting her back together, I'd hate to let her go, but I think this is a calculated risk. Her body is straight as an arrow, she has new brake lines, shoes, and cylinders all around. (heck, I even turned the drums). She's also got a new gearbox, and transfer case complements of Jerry Sprenger of Balboa Island. The gear box is out of a 1965. Also has a brand new clutch, and slave cylinder, new battery, brand new tires, (the 16 inch variety) a hard top, the seats in pretty good shape, (they too are out of a 65) and I have the original ones as well ( in poor shape, but I think they are more comfortable), I also have the hoopset for the soft top, but can't find the top.New cap, rotor, condensor, wires,points all that stuff, plugs, the works. Yes, she drips, I like drips. I am currently experiencing a mild electrical problem with her, she won't hold a charge, could be the generator, could be the voltage regulator, I haven't taken the time to look. Oh, new muffler too. She runs fine, but could easily be much, much better. Trouble is, I studied art in college instead of medicine and can't really afford to treat her to the service she probably requires. Sooooo.... I was thinking, this car may be in better shape than what you may have been looking for, but I was thinking somewhere in the 4500 to 5000 range, and maybe a ride to Rover things until I can get that D90. I can't be sure of the mileage, but I think the odo is around 60k or so. I bought her from fellow who had her parked under a tree for 17 years or so, she originally comes from Florida, I understand it was owned by a college professor originally. I fibbed a little with DMV so registration is about $37, I can pass that savings on to you. (don't rat me out, I'm deeply connected with the Feds) Let me know if you're interested, I'm looking to buy a new camera and some lenses, etcetera with the proceeds, and then I will take whatever is left over to get my Land Rover tattoo, that way if I don't own one right away, I'll at least have a badge on my ass to prove my commitment to the marque. With any luck I will be able to Land a job as a Rover Marketing guy or something, and I can hurry up and get started with my Life as "Roverman". Call anytime, or this mail thing seems to work nicely. Cheers, and all that Jazz! Dan of Rosa (Dan Connor) 1961 series IIa model 88 Marine Blue, Primer Grey, Bare Metal. 1800.862.7520 work 8 to 5 Monday through Friday 707.585.0960 fax 707.546.4277 home From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Mon Jul 10 14:03:58 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 14:03:58 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Series IIa clutch disk - replacement from Chevy? FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Series IIa clutch disk - replacement from Chevy? Hello all, I heard that there was a clutch disk from a Chevy that will work for a IIa. I took my old disk to the auto parts store, and (after insisting that they try looking it up by application, and then not finding it) matched it up, but it's not an exact match. The splines match, and the size matches, but the offset is about 10cm off. This would make the clutch splines ride on a slightly different location on the input shaft. Would this be a problem??? The disk that I "matched" it to was for a 1980 Chevrolet Monza 4 cylinder. To the best of my visualization, I can't imagine it causing a problem, or interfering with anything. Am I missing anything? Has anyone done this, or know of anyone that has done this? Please let me know... Thanks, Dave (clutchless) Brown. #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From "Russell G. Dushin" Mon Jul 10 18:20:47 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 18:20:47 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Series IIa clutch disk - replacement from Chevy? > I heard that there was a clutch disk from a Chevy that will work for a > IIa. I took my old disk to the auto parts store, and (after insisting [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > can't imagine it causing a problem, or interfering with anything. Am I > missing anything? Has anyone done this, or know of anyone that has done > this? Why match up when you can buy genuine and new? shipping is cheap, rd/nigel From matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Mon Jul 10 16:57:28 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 16:57:28 -0700 From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: Re: contemplated '88 RR purchase >What is your view about the years >inwhich quality improvements were made? I gather that in 91 they >substituted some non-Lucas sensors which may have helped? My opinions in that regard are actually just gut feel based on number and character of messages I've seen here about '88 and '89 models, versus later years. In addition, when I first bought my '88 RR, the foreman of the dealer's body shop, who happened to live near me, commented that he felt the engines were considerably more capable in years after '88. So I don't have any hard facts to offer, but maybe others will. -Matt From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Mon Jul 10 21:47:07 1995 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 21:47:07 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: 15 Minutes of fame... Spent most of Saturday on the set filming the prologues, epilogues and "teasers" for four segments of "Archaeology". For those who came in late, the Welsh actor John Rhys-Davies was again in town...and he joined ROAV! He has also recently purchased another Land Rover...he now owns *five*. His newest acquisition is a '72 88 (daily driver) he picked up for 700 pounds. This and all but one of his others lives on his farm on the Isle of Man. Spent an hour or so swapping stories with him...it takes *forever* (as in virtually all day) to film just a few minutes. The dunes at First Landing State Park will stand in for s site near Rome, another near Naples, something about the Great Barrier Reef and one other location (I forget). He'll be back in townFrom azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Tue Jul 11 08:28:12 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 08:28:12 UNDEFINED From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: Pitted Swivel Balls \My swivel balls had several small, albeit fairly deep, pits. I cleaned out \the rust, filled the pits with epoxy (trade name "JB Weld"), and sanded them \smooth. So far so good. The seals seem to appreciate having a smooth \surface to move over! Give it a try. It's lots cheaper than new parts if \the pitting isn't too severe. This is a standard 'fix' for pitted motorcycle fork stanchions. No reason why it shouldnt work here too. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From Andrew Grafton Tue Jul 11 12:53:23 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 12:53:23 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Gearbox weight Anyone out there know the weight of a SIII (or IIA will be close enough) gearbox off the top of their head? That is, excluding the transfer box, bellhousing, overdrive and suchlike. If I was to want to take an expedition spare for the monkey-metal 'boxes in our SIII's, then should I just take the whole unit and drop it in (ha,ha) if things go wrong, or take the parts and leave the casing behind... Repair time isn't a problem, but do the casings crack?. I don't want to be holding casings together with binder twine and ratchet straps, pouring oil in every 5 minutes, or trying to DC weld Aluminium ;-) I know IIA 'boxes are 'better' (subjective), but we can do a whole lot more with three off SIII 'boxes (1 spare) than with 2 III's and 1 II. Transfer 'boxes rarely go wrong - famous last words - , but is there a weak part I should be thinking of taking as a spare, just in case? Are SIII and SII transfer 'boxes completely the same internally? Thanks for the help, Andy, A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk In gearbox mode today From Andrew Grafton Tue Jul 11 13:03:55 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 13:03:55 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Egypt/Sudan border + Sudan generally We are trying to gather information about the status of the border between Egypt and Sudan, but are short on leads and people with actual knowledge of the situation. Soon we will be (hopefully) driving thro' Egypt and Sudan to Ethiopia and on down to South Africa. The relevant Embassies in the UK are hopeless, as are the Tourist Offices. Just wondering if there were any 'rover types out there who know anything or know anyone who does... All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From kelliott@intranet.on.ca (Keith Elliott) Tue Jul 11 09:28:48 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 09:28:48 -0400 From: kelliott@intranet.on.ca (Keith Elliott) Subject: Stalling Hi everyone. Well I am another LR owner that has been lurking here for quite a while. I haven't had any thing to ask so I have just been enjoying the reading. Now I have a question. I have a '61 series II 88" SW, I haven't finished the restoration on it so it isn't on the road yet but I do use is to do chores around the house. Lately I have noticed something strange happening. After running for a while and the temp. gets up around 80 deg. the beast starts kinda choking and the stalls, sounds like it ran outta gas. While it is coughing away the cold start/choke light or whatever the light on the right of the dash is comes on. When I try to re-start it it just turns over and doesn't start. If I pull the choke all the way out it will start and run for a few seconds before stalling again. If I do this and touch the throttle it chokes and sputters and will most certainly die. When I leave it sit for about half an hour it will fire right up again no problem. There is fuel getting to the carb because I pulled the fuel line off the crab just after it died and there was gas at the carb. Any ideas anyone could give me would be appreciated. It is not a big problem yet because I am not driving it but I would like to find the solution. Thanks Keith From "Tom Rowe" Tue Jul 11 08:23:31 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 08:23:31 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Gearbox weight Andy, Whoa! IMHO if you're that nervous about your gearboxes, I think I'd do a teardown inspection and replace any suspect parts, or replace them with non-syncro boxes. I've never seen a case crack. I would think that it would take a heafty impact to do it and since my experience has been all non-catastrophic gearbox failures, ie. no internal exploding parts, I would suspect it's a not-to-worry issue. Spares in general. >From reading I've done, it seems that the bigest cause of mechanical problems on expeditions is overloading. Actually that's been true in my general working-vehicle activities also. You can cut down on it obviously by having interchangable vehicles and thus common spares which it sounds as if you're doing. I'd say keep the weight well under the max if you posibly can. Leave that extra payload capacity for fuel & water. Found any of thoses books? Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@compuserve.com> 11 95 Jul EDT 1909 Date: 11 Jul 95 09:33:03 EDT From: "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@compuserve.com> Subject: Rover value. I am in the process of having Gary Landes change out my 6cyl engine in my 1967 ser 11A NADA 109" wagon with a Turner rebuilt high performence 4cyl. engine. Will this conversion drasticly alter the value of this wagon? Benjamin G. Newman From Jon Humphrey Tue Jul 11 10:53:45 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 10:53:45 -0400 (EDT) From: Jon Humphrey Subject: Re: Stalling Keith, try a new coil. After running for a while and the temp. gets up around 80 deg. >the beast starts kinda choking and the stalls, sounds like it ran outta gas. >While it is coughing away the cold start/choke light or whatever the light [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >touch the throttle it chokes and sputters and will most certainly die. When >I leave it sit for about half an hour it will fire right up again. Jon From rparker@tiac.net (Randy Parker) Tue Jul 11 10:54:31 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 10:54:31 -0400 From: rparker@tiac.net (Randy Parker) Subject: 95 RR recall FYI from an LRNA press release... Land Rover just announced a worldwide recall of all 1995 Range Rovers (4.0, 4.6, diesel, etc.) due to a brake hose problem around the ABS pump. [I don't know if this affects the 95 RR Classic.] It's a minor problem that can be repaired at the dealer in 30 mins. ----------------------------------------------------------------- -- Randy Parker, NoteSystems, Brookline, MA (rparker@tiac.net) WWW Page: http://www.tiac.net/users/rparker/ "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -- Ben Franklin ------------------------------------------------------------------ From dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers) Tue Jul 11 17:15:46 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 17:15:46 +0200 From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers) Subject: Re: increasing turbo longevity Thanks to Tom Rowe for the turbo tips. This leads me to a question that I have had in the back of my mind for a while : If you happen to be in a desolate part of the world and your turbo ceases to function without destroying the rest of the engine (seizure?), can you continue to drive it without risking further damage to the engine? I have heard advice against the use of turbos for expedition use because of the the added complexity in case of failure. However, if you can continue your trip (with the corresponding loss in power) than it may not be such an issue. Any ideas? Thanks for your help. -David 1989 Land Rover 90 TD Hardtop From Mr Ian Stuart Tue Jul 11 16:30:19 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 16:30:19 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Re: 95 RR recall On 11 Jul 95, Randy Parker wrote: > Land Rover just announced a worldwide recall of all 1995 Range Rovers > (4.0, 4.6, diesel, etc.) due to a brake hose problem around the ABS pump. > [I don't know if this affects the 95 RR Classic.] It's a minor > problem that can be repaired at the dealer in 30 mins. I've just spoken to Appleyard LandRover here in Edinburgh, they have had no paperwork about this problem as yet - for either the New RR or the Classic RR. Please could someone verify this with another Dealer (I've a few contacts I want to pass this on to..) thanks.... ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From Andrew Grafton Tue Jul 11 16:46:19 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 16:46:19 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Re: increasing turbo longevity > Thanks to Tom Rowe for the turbo tips. > This leads me to a question that I have had in the back of my mind for a while : [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > function without destroying the rest of the engine (seizure?), can you > continue to drive it without risking further damage to the engine? This depends whether or not the engine ingested parts of the impeller. If the turbo just siezed then chances are you're OK, but if the impeller shattered then there will be shards everywhere and it will probably need cleaning out, even thought the engine may be running 'fine' (apparently). So if the turbo goes; remove it, dismantle and if it's in one bit then you should be OK. Probably removing the impeller blades from the hub is the best option, as then you can reassemble the unit seals and all and put it back in line. I can't believe I just suggested that... but it seems to follow logically. Your timing, exhaust pressures and all kinds of other stuff will be out but the engine should still run with the appropriate adjustments. > I have heard advice against the use of turbos for expedition use because of > the the added complexity in case of failure. However, if you can continue > your trip (with the corresponding loss in power) than it may not be such an > issue. Any ideas? Just my thoughts... I only have experiance of turbos on Perkins biggish engines, which seem to run OK without the turbo there as long as you pipe up the holes in the inlet & exhaust lines. All the best, Andy From azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Tue Jul 11 16:56:51 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 16:56:51 UNDEFINED From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: Valve Job Advice Please \My only experience with clicking sounds + smoke has been on a diesel, Be VERY wary of light ticking or tinkling sounds from a 2.25 deisel. It can be the injection chamber rattling round prior to dropping into the cylinder. This is followed by a LARGE BANG and lots of shrapnel. Good laugh when it happens to >someone elses< engine........ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From "Tom Rowe" Tue Jul 11 11:25:57 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 11:25:57 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: increasing turbo longevity > This leads me to a question that I have had in the back of my mind for a while : > If you happen to be in a desolate part of the world and your turbo ceases to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > function without destroying the rest of the engine (seizure?), can you > continue to drive it without risking further damage to the engine? David, Theoretically yes. As Andy said your pressures will be screwy. Idealy you would remove the boost impeller as he said, but you would have to fashion a spacer of some sort so you could reattach the nut that retains the impeller. This keeps the shaft and exhaust side impeller from backing out into and trashing the housing. If the turbo is seized, it will really restrict your exhaust flow. And if were seized, (because of the shaft seizeing rather than an impeller seizing) then freeing it up would probably only get you a little ways before it seized again. If it seized because of an impeller, then that means it trashed the impeller housing and you probably have many bits in you engine. But a little ways is better than none I guess. I'd make DAMN sure the turbo was in good shape before I left. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Tue Jul 11 10:39:46 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 10:39:46 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Results of "transmission request" inquiry... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Results of "transmission request" inquiry... Several of you have requested that I posted the results of my inquiry as to reputable suppliers of Series transmissions (gearboxes). Here are the replies I've received: ************************************************************************ From Tony_Bonanno@nps.gov (Tony Bonanno) Tue Jul 11 11:38:49 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 11:38:49 -0400 From: Tony_Bonanno@nps.gov (Tony Bonanno) Subject: WAXOIL Hi folks! I've seen several references to something called "waxoil". What is Waxoil? What is it used for? Where can you get it (in the States)? Thanks for your help.. Tony Bonanno From "John R. Benham" Tue Jul 11 11:13:20 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 11:13:20 +1100 From: "John R. Benham" Subject: Snorkel Power! Dear LRO's, I recently installed a MANTEC snorkel on my petro Land Rover SIIA SWB. I connected all of the proper ducting, and repositioned the K&N air filter from my Weber single barrel to the snorkel intake. Before snorkel installation, I used just the K&N air filter, not the original oil bath. My home lies off a hill accessed by a road with a 300-foot climb relief west of Spokane. I use this hill for my `beta testing' of engine add-ons to determine any increase of engine power. Normally, I accelerate on the flat grade to 65 mph only to decelerate to 45-50 mph while climbing this hill every day returning from work. Since I have installed the snorkel, I can now climb this hill easily at 55 mph - A 5-10 MPH INCREASE! I have not changed anything else in my engine, power train, or tires. So the additional power must be due to the snorkel. HOW CAN THIS BE? Could this phenomena be due to: 1. A denser cooler air source for the carburetor? 2. Intake air under a positive pressure? (super charger affect) 3. ...or Elvis Presley giving a helping hand to an old Land Rover? Suggestions and comments from others having snorkels welcomed... Thanks, John R. Benham - Editor N.3616 Dowdy Road `The Rover Runner' Spokane, WA 99204 USA ______ |______\_____ 1968 88 IIA Marine Blue *--- [|_/-\____/-\_|} The `BWANA' Mobile *--- (O) (O) 509.747.0692 (H); 509.353.2700 (W); E-Mail: benham@wfoclan.usbm.gov From "Tom Rowe" Tue Jul 11 13:54:07 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 13:54:07 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Snorkel Power! > HOW CAN THIS BE? > Could this phenomena be due to: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > 3. ...or Elvis Presley giving a helping hand to an old Land Rover? > Suggestions and comments from others having snorkels welcomed... Well, normally I'd say it was Elvis Presley, but I saw him at a laundromat here in Madison, WI that day. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Tue Jul 11 11:59:08 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 11:59:08 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: WAXOIL In message <199507111748.MAA28250@butler.uk.stratus.com> Tony Bonanno writes: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > Waxoil? What is it used for? Where can you get it (in the States)? > Thanks for your help.. Waxol is an anti rust product that is primarily beeswax with a bunch of rust inhibitors in suspension. It tends to remain slightly sticky and tends to be self healing. I have used it liberally inside my TR3 And I plan to finish off the carn by spraying it inside my LR frame. You can get it in a DYI applicator for spraying or refill cans. It can be brushed on but you get a better coating spraying it. The secret is to warm it up until it melts then spray it. Its availuable in the US through mail order from Moss Motors 800-235-6954. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Tue Jul 11 12:28:44 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 12:28:44 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: pos/neg While driving to work today, contemplating the bouncing needle on my fuel gauge, it came to mind that the recent thread on changing the ground polarity missed an important component, the coil. The wiring to the primary side of the coil should be switched. Even though the ignition system will appear to be functioning just fine without changing the wiring to the coil, there is a subtle advantage to changing it. The spark plug gap resistance is less if the center electrode is negative. This is due to the fact that electrons will jump more enthusiastically from a hot surface than a cold one. The center electrode of the spark plugs runs hotter than the outside. Not switching the coil input is the same as putting colder range plugs into your Rover. If the markings on the coil seem ambiguous, (like SW and DST or whatever Lucas did), there is a way to tell if the spark polarity is correct. With the engine running, remove a plug wire and get the spark jumping to a ground point. Stick the end of a lead (carbon, really) pencil into the spark stream and you can see which direction the electrons are flowing. The spark should come from the wire toward the ground point. Try not to get it going up your arm and out your belt buckle to the wing, it's uncomfortable. R, bg "Very funny, Scotty. Now beam down my clothes." . . \/ . * . ____________________ . __ \___________________|) .____.--"--"---._____ . . . || . /-----._________.----/ . . . /=======||=====/___/ "--" \==\_______________|(- . * . . . . * @ . . . . From Tony_Bonanno@nps.gov (Tony Bonanno) Tue Jul 11 13:26:36 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 13:26:36 -0400 From: Tony_Bonanno@nps.gov (Tony Bonanno) Subject: Re[2]: WAXOIL TerriAnn, Thanks for the enlightment. I had heard about a wax type of frame treatment, but was not sure that it was the "waxoil" .. appreciate the phone number too. Good timing as I am continuing with my on-going restoration of my old series IIA and I'm at the point where I'm cleaning up the frame now. Frame has some surface rust and scaling paint, but is basically very solid. I've started on the outside with POR-15. Sounds like WAXOIL would be the perfect thing for spraying in those hard to reach places and the inside of the frame... Cheers, Tony Bonanno From "Tom Rowe" Tue Jul 11 18:04:47 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 18:04:47 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: pos/neg > come from the wire toward the ground point. Try not to get it going up > your arm and out your belt buckle to the wing, it's uncomfortable. Well I guess, but there's some places people would pay good money for that. Seriously though, there's another reason to switch the coil polarity. just like in welding the electrons jumping across will take bits of metal with them. You want the bits going in the right direction so the proper part of the plug erodes. PS. Like you sig. How come things like that never happened on TV? Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From Leland J Roys Tue Jul 11 16:27:30 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 16:27:30 PDT From: Leland J Roys Subject: Clanking 1st gear Hi. Just wanted to let you know. I just got my '94 defender back from its first 7500 mile service ($230 bucks). Remember I asked on the net about the clanking sound whn letting up on the clutch in 1st gear. The service manager said that it is normal and said it is the linkage to the transmision (I not up on this type of thing so I bought that). The noise is actually louder than ever now, but if the service guy says so..... Leland Roys roys@cup.hp.com From ra.walker@qut.edu.au (Rodney Walker) Wed Jul 12 10:34:46 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 10:34:46 +1000 From: ra.walker@qut.edu.au (Rodney Walker) Subject: Costs of 2nd hand 90's and Jeep Wranglers in UK Hi all In September I go to the UK to work for 6 months. I really want to buy a 2nd hand 90 or Jeep Wrangler over there. Can anyone give me some typical prices for these vehicles. I'd be looking for low mileage and 89 or newer. Is a NAS 90 available in the UK? I'd love one to park besides my 55 series 1. Best regards Rod Walker ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Rodney A. Walker 44 Ford GPW Space Centre for Satellite Navigation 44 Willys MB Queensland University of Technology 88 Cherokee George St, Brisbane 90 Wrangler 4000, Queensland, Australia 85 CJ7, 85 J10 voice +61-7-8705187 44 GPA, 44 Dodge Truck fax +61-7-8641517 79 Cherokee Chief 56 CJ3B 55 Series 1 Land Rover 53 Series 1 Land Rover ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From JCassidyiv@aol.com Tue Jul 11 22:20:10 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 1995 22:20:10 -0400 From: JCassidyiv@aol.com Subject: Koenig Winch Well, I went and bought the Koenig winch from my neighbor. My brother-in-law and I spent about an hour and a half cutting it off the frame of his Jeep "woods buggy" that he used to skid wood out of the forest with. Seems his son thought it would be better mounted on the rear of said vehicle and welded it no end. My new questions on this winch are; 1.) The front mounting brace(it appears original) is wider than the internal frame measurements-did it sit on top of the frame and if so, how? The rear mounting bracket is slightly less wide than the internal frame dimensions-does it mount down inside the frame? 2.) The shaft looks as though it will mount to the front PTO output-are there any special fittings I will need. The shaft had been elongated for the Jeep. If anyone has a picture/drawings of the winch, please E-mail me direct with details-I'll galdly pay postage and developing/photocopying fees as I currently have no info on this piece of equipment. Cheers! John Cassidy From "Elam, Gerry" Tue Jul 11 22:59:00 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 22:59:00 edt From: "Elam, Gerry" Subject: Discovery Since the Discovery is relatively new to the U.S. market, we don't have a lot of information available on long-term reliability. I was wondering how older (well...relatively speaking to a '95 model! ) Discoveries are holding up across the pond? Is there anyone that can tell which areas will provide headaches in the future? What has been the worst about the vehicle? What has been the most surprising about this SUV? Any comments would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance... Gerry (Just another FNG to the scene and loving every minute of it!) 33 19'06.9" North 112 03'28.0" West From tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Wed Jul 12 13:05:38 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 13:05:38 +0930 From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Subject: RE:Egypt/Sudan Border Andrew Grafton wrote: >We are trying to gather information about the status of the >border between Egypt and Sudan, but are short on leads and [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >Soon we will be (hopefully) driving thro' Egypt and Sudan >to Ethiopia and on down to South Africa. Andrew I work for the International Student Program for TAFE South Australia and so I have some overseas overseas. The only thing I can think of to give you is phone numbers for the Australian Embassies in Egypt (Cairo) and South Africa (Pretoria). The people there speak English so you shouldn't have any troubles asking your questions about the sitatution at the borders. They might be able to help as they live in those countries. If they don't have the answers they should at least be able to give you the name of someone who does. The From Mr Ian Stuart Wed Jul 12 08:49:50 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 08:49:50 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Re: Costs of 2nd hand 90's and Jeep Wranglers in UK > buy a 2nd hand 90 or Jeep Wrangler over there. Can anyone give me > some typical prices for these vehicles. I'd be looking for low > mileage and 89 or newer. This could be somewhat expensive - 5K +/- 1K for a 90 (it'll almost certainly be diesel) > Is a NAS 90 available in the UK? I'd love one to park besides my 55 > series 1. Nope - not unless you are LandRover, or you import it from the US. ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From Andrew Grafton Wed Jul 12 05:05:11 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 05:05:11 -0400 From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Returned mail: User unknown This is a MIME-encapsulated message --FAA07259.805539911/transfer.stratus.com The original message was received at Wed, 12 Jul 1995 05:04:57 -0400 from bgate.lut.ac.uk [131.231.16.7] ----- The following addresses had delivery problems ----- (unrecoverable error) ----- Transcript of session follows ----- ... while talking to butler.uk.stratus.com.: >>> RCPT To: <<< 550 ... User unknown 550 ... User unknown ----- Original message follows ----- --FAA07259.805539911/transfer.stratus.com Content-Type: message/rfc822 Wed, 12 Jul 95 10:04:15 bst From Andrew Grafton Wed Jul 12 10:11:33 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 10:11:33 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Re: increasing turbo longevity > Your timing, exhaust pressures and all kinds of other stuff will be out > but the engine should still run with the appropriate adjustments. Oops! Mistake here. The timing will be OK - I meant to say max. fuel delivery will be too high for a non-turbo engine. Easy on the throttle. > Just my thoughts... I only have experiance of turbos on Perkins biggish ^ e All the best, Andy From Easton Trevor Wed Jul 12 07:39:00 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 07:39:00 DST From: Easton Trevor Subject: Swivel Balls Like Andy Woodward, I used epoxy compound to fill pits in my swivel balls. I used Devcon Titanium Putty, then painted the whole surface after bead blasting with Petits Hobbypoxy two part paint. I now have attractive french blue balls but you can't see them as they are wrapped in leather gaiters. Trevor Easton and Miss Golightly From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 12 95 Jul EDT 1908 Date: 12 Jul 95 08:03:39 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Gearbox weight > ... Repair time isn't a problem, but do the casings crack?. Never heard of such an incident. > Are SIII and SII transfer 'boxes completely the same internally? No, in fact they're quite different internally. Only externally they're practically identical (except the very old S.II boxes with top filling opening and dipstick). As for the actual weight, it is such that I can just about carry it around with a lot of moaning and groaning. As my carrying capacity generally lies at around 100 kg, I infer the gearbox weighing thereabouts, give our take a few milligramms :-) ...never actually weighed it, though. Stefan From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Tue Jul 11 20:37:30 1995 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 20:37:30 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: models The OVLR internet access sluice gate just opened and I was flooded with reponses to posting a model listing on the FAQ. Alot of closet model makers perhaps? Ok, I"ll put this in hand and we should see something by the end of September, Hey I'm a realist about my time! TTFN Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Wed Jul 12 14:40:55 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 14:40:55 +0200 From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Subject: Re: Gearbox weight >> ... Repair time isn't a problem, but do the casings crack?. >Never heard of such an incident. Happened to a guy here in Norway a couple of years ago... His transfer box casing cracked during offroading. I don't know the exact details, but I believe the only thing that kept it from disintegrating was the gears themselves. Terje K. terje@tvnorge.no http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html From Dixon Kenner Wed Jul 12 09:38:13 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 09:38:13 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Koenig Winch On Tue, 11 Jul 1995 JCassidyiv@aol.com wrote: > My new questions on this winch are; 1.) The front mounting brace(it > appears original) is wider than the internal frame measurements-did it sit on > top of the frame and if so, how? The rear mounting bracket is slightly less > wide than the internal frame dimensions-does it mount down inside the frame? If the PTO version, it sits between the front frame rails/below more or less. Crank version sits on top of the bumper, but rear part of the original mounting plate does fit between the front frame rails. (Has two large bolts with hooks on them to bolt to the frame) > 2.) The shaft looks as though it will mount to the front PTO output-are > there any special fittings I will need. The shaft had been elongated for the > Jeep. Yes, possible. Which version? > If anyone has a picture/drawings of the winch, please E-mail me direct > with details-I'll galdly pay postage and developing/photocopying fees as I > currently have no info on this piece of equipment. I just moved this last week. The operating & parts manuals for both the crank & pto versions are buried in a mountain of shit right now... From "Tom Rowe" Wed Jul 12 09:10:56 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 09:10:56 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: truncated messages Dixon Kenner's message about winches got truncated at >"...a mountain of......" is anyone else having this problem? ie.Is it the Major or my reader? Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Wed Jul 12 08:31:24 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 08:31:24 -0600 From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Subject: 88 Rangerover Stalling Here I go with another problem on my 1988 Rangerover! My temperature gage going off scale is apparently a malfunctioning sensor, I got a type K thermocouple and put it both in the coolant and on the engine block and it always reads < 80C. Of course the exhaust manifold is HOT! I'm replacing the thermostat and flushing the radiator in a couple of days just to be sure. My flaky tachometer -- malfunctioning simultaneously with the battery charge light stopped completely and mysteriously two months ago! Here's something else quite irritating! My 88 Rangerover stalls occasionally when I come to a quick slow down, for example when I turn to go into my driveway and hit the brakes a bit and turn -- the engine stalls. It happened when I made a straight (no turn) abrupt slow down while pulling off of the road last night. It starts right up with no problems. It happens quite often, and the engine is always warm when it happens. By the way, this has been happening long before any temperature gage problems. I recently read a thread about revving problems and someone mentioned a stepper motor gizmo which varies the air bypassing the throttle butterfly valve at idle -- apparently acting up (sticking) when the thing gets dusty. I live on a dirt road -- could that be my problem? Where is that stepper motor exactly? I'd like to see if it needs lubrication. Any other suggestions??? ??? My 1963 IIa seems more reliable these days ??? I've even got most of the oil leaks stopped for a while! I took off the top of the doors, tightened up the back hatch, and put recycled rubber "parquet" doormats from Walmart front and back and it is even relatively quiet and not so hot on the feet. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ /==============\ | `63 | IIa | Stephen Brown |______|_______| Geomechanics Department, MS-0751 /___/^^^^^^\___\9 Sandia National Laboratories |oo|(@)##(@)|oo| Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185 | | [####] | | ======%%%%====== email: srbrown@sandia.gov {*}={&&}====={*} {*} {*} RockNet: http://sair019.energylan.sandia.gov:70 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers) Wed Jul 12 16:50:33 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 16:50:33 +0200 From: dbeers@eu.wang.com (David Beers) Subject: Re: truncated messages >Dixon Kenner's message about winches got truncated at >>"...a mountain of......" >is anyone else having this problem? ie.Is it the Major or my reader? >Tom I also sometimes receive messages that end abruptly, including the one you refer to. I am using both the mailx reader and also the elm reader as well. Both give the same truncation. I am wondering if maybe one of the characters in the message is being interpreted as an end-of-file marker? [five minutes later...] I just forwarded the message to a co-worker who uses a non-unix reader, and the message still appears truncated. Could be the Major? Regards, David David Beers 1989 Land Rover 90 TD HT Wang Europe Brussels, Belgium Email dbeers@eu.wang.com From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Wed Jul 12 08:40:46 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 08:40:46 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: Koenig Winch In message <199507120220.VAA28722@butler.uk.stratus.com> writes: > Well, I went and bought the Koenig winch from my neighbor. Is this the same winch Vance has?? If it is you want to contact him about mounting it. He put his on recently and did an A#1 instillation job. Unfortunatly word is that Vance (vance@xnet.ssl.Berkeley.Edu) has been having connection problems recently and may not be able to read his mail. Sorry, I do not have his phone number. But if it is the same type as his you REALLY should get in touch with him. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From BobandSueB@aol.com Wed Jul 12 12:07:17 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 12:07:17 -0400 From: BobandSueB@aol.com Subject: Clutch replacement for IIA David Brown asked about chev clutch fitting,, Hi, I got my clutch through a local American part place,not NAPA or Big A. They were from A 1 Clutch components California. Rebuilt,But fine for 7 years now. I recently had a friend at Big A check and they are still in business. prices around $30 and $40 but I didnt write it down pressure plate P/N X47348 disk P/N is P48348 They are on my 65/69 88 and have gone through Sierra Trek twice which is Donner Pass the hard way (9 miles of boulders) and still engage smoothly with no shudder/judder/jumpy starts. Hope this helps. Bob Bernard LROA/NA Membership Paradise, CA From mtzphil@vax.ccc.nottingham.ac.uk Wed Jul 12 17:09:16 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 17:09:16 BST From: mtzphil@vax.ccc.nottingham.ac.uk Subject: Discovery Gerry Elam asks about Discovery reliability. I own a 1990 (very early) carb V8 disco which I^Rve had for 15 months now, with 82k miles on the clock (I put on the last 17k). The only parts I^Rve needed are a new fuel pump (but this is different to the EFI one anyway, and incidentally *much* more expensive) and a new front propshaft (worn at the splined joint). This wasn^Rt too expensive as it^Rs the same part as the RR and 90/110 V8, and it^Rs an easy home fix. I^Rve also rebushed the suspension with a Polybush kit, and fitted Gabriel gas shocks, both of which sharpened up the handling no end (mine is a pre anti roll bar model). The only thing which actually stopped the car was the fuel pump failure, and it currently runs beautifully, though a new steering damper is on the shopping list. The thing to bear in mind however is that my motor has a full service history. Regular oil changes are *essential* for the V8, if the hydraulic tappets sludge up the camshaft starts to wear and then you^Rre in for major expense. I have my servicing done by an independent LR specialist (Lovell^Rs Landrovers Lincoln 01522 500361 for those of you in the area, plug plug, and Eddie Lovell is an *enthusiastic* off roader himself), this works out at about one third the cost of a main dealer, and I can be sure the work^Rs been done. The first place to go scabby on the body are the bottom corners of the tailgate, otherwise chassis/mechanicals are essentially RR. Phil Taylor, Univ. Dept. Anaesthesia, Nottingham, UK (1990 Disco V8, 1973 Lt/wt) From "Russell G. Dushin" Wed Jul 12 12:19:30 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 12:19:30 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: truncated messages > Dixon Kenner's message about winches got truncated at > >"...a mountain of......" > is anyone else having this problem? ie.Is it the Major or my reader? I have this problem with EVERY message I receive from lro@team.net. The last line is ALWAYS lost. Sometimes in "reply mode" I can actually see the last line, but not always. TerriAnn's messages are even worse....nearly every line gets garbled, but I am not sure if it is her typing skills or the Lucas spell checker she uses. rd/nigel From "Russell G. Dushin" Wed Jul 12 12:48:06 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 12:48:06 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Clutch replacement for IIA > David Brown asked about chev clutch fitting,, > Hi, I got my clutch through a local American part place,not NAPA or Big A. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > pressure plate P/N X47348 > disk P/N is P48348 This fit a 9" finger type pressure plate or the 9.5 " "disc" type plates? Don't forget that when you buy a pressure plate from a Rover bits supplier it will probably come as an assembly and NOT just as the plate itself.... so don't be fooled by the cheaper prices (cause it'll cost you to have the thing installed unless you are willing to wrestle with it yourself). Oh, and the 9.5" "disc"-actuated type of plate is definately the preferred route to go. rd/nigel From Andy Dingley Wed Jul 12 12:22:14 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 12:22:14 From: Andy Dingley Subject: Spray-in decoke I use this trick all the time, with a plant sprayer full of old ATF. I usually use about half-a-sprayerful to an engine. I've done it on my road car, my Rangie, and dozens of nasty clogged up old tractors. On a badly maintained diesel tractor with choked-up injectors the difference is immediate and impressive. It doesn't work well on diesels with "normal" long-term coking. Diesels tend to coke up more on their rings than around their valves, and although this trickwill still shift carbon from the valves it doesn't unstick the rings. As I only use a fine mist, not pouring it down, I have no qualms about hydraulic lock in the cylinders. -- Andy Dingley dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Speed kills, but Bull Bars enable you to kill at lower speeds From "Tom Rowe" Wed Jul 12 13:50:55 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 13:50:55 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Clutch replacement for IIA > Don't forget that when you buy a pressure plate from a Rover bits supplier > it will probably come as an assembly and NOT just as the plate itself.... > so don't be fooled by the cheaper prices (cause it'll cost you to have the > thing installed unless you are willing to wrestle with it yourself). What do you mean by an "assembly"? Every clutch I've ever bought, the pressure plate and driven plate come seperately. Or are you refering to the pressure plate and it's cover being sold seperately? Actually haven't seen that, but I guess if you specified, you might be able to get it that way, but I don't really know why you would want to. On another clutch topic, if you want to put a really heavy duty clutch on you LR, a Jag clutch will sort of match up. You'd have to drill your flywheel, but the splines match and the height is right. It's an 11" coil spring type, very hefty. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From David Rosenbaum Wed Jul 12 11:46:12 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 11:46:12 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rosenbaum Subject: D90 clanking; Frame maintenance-undercoating?'s In response to comment about D90 clanking sound when applying the clutch pedal in 1st gear, my '94 D90 (18k miles) does it (sounds like "slack" or "slop" in the drive train to me) and it happens when I clutch from other gears, too. Most evident in 1st or Reverse. The Seattle dealership said its "normal." A few weeks ago, the Seattle dealer gave an off-road outing/barbeque for D90/RR/Discovery customers at an ORV park {lots of fun with advice from Camel Trophy team for those of us who tend to get stuck more often in traffic than in bottemless mudholes}. Anyway, at the top of a steep climb, when stopping before descending, my D90 would "clank," then those behind me would each clank in turn as they went through the same manuever. I can't say for sure if it is normal, but it sure seems *common*. Mine also gives a short growl from the steering when turning the steering wheel right after starting up (as when backing out of a parking stall). Its done that since I bought it. The LR service manager said it was from the power steering pump: that a hose discharged onto a gear to cause the growl and that he had seen the same with some RRs. He said that the pump could be replaced (under warranty) but that the problem wasn't serious (just a noise). He left the dealership and the service people replaced steering box (not the pump). The noise persists, but hasn't changed during the 1 1/2 years. I hope it is "just a noise". In response to the "waxoil" info, Rovers North (Autumn,'94) Newsletter recommends renewing the undercoating on the D90 chassis annually. What do you use as "undercoating" and how is it applied? Given the awful reputation of the "rustproofing" franchaises that flourished in the US in the '70's, is there any good commericial "undercoating" company or is it better to do it yourself? Also, what is "POR-15". Thanks in advance for your comments! David Rosenbaum '94 D90 ('66 Scout, '55 Chev, 5 Bicycles) From Nckcharles@aol.com Wed Jul 12 15:02:12 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 15:02:12 -0400 From: Nckcharles@aol.com Subject: Re: K&N Air Filters, Plug Wires Is anyone familiar with K&N air fitlers for the Land Rover Discovery? Will they improve mileage or performance significantly? Also, Autoweek magazine has been featuring a high performance plug wires in an ad for the last several issues. The company "claims" Up to a 10% performance improvement, and up to 20% mileage improvement. The wires are solid core 9mm with RF suppressors attached. These claims seem a little x-teme to me and the wires are x-pensive (US$350.) If anyone has had experience with these or similar products I love to know. Thanks in advance. Nick Charles Land Rover Discovery- Still cheaper to maintain than a Bell Jet Ranger, and slower too. From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Wed Jul 12 12:50 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 12:50 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: Drafting I experienced some aerodynamic effects today. I got on the interstate this morning near my house, headed west. From the end of the on ramp for about a mile, the road climbs steadily, and I am not able to accelerate past 50 mph. This morning, just as I pulled on, a tractor trailer passed me going 60. I was able to get in his wake, and climb the hill at 60. I had to hold back, too, to keep from tailgating him. James Howard 1972 SIII 88 Flagstaff, Arizona, USA From "Russell G. Dushin" Wed Jul 12 16:01:20 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 16:01:20 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Clutch replacement for IIA > > Don't forget that when you buy a pressure plate from a Rover bits supplier > > it will probably come as an assembly and NOT just as the plate itself.... [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > that, but I guess if you specified, you might be able to get it that way, but > I don't really know why you would want to. By "assembly" I meant the pressure plate, the "disk" (or springs, in the case of the 3-fingered types), the "housing" for the pressure plate, and everything else EXCEPT the driven (friction) plate (and the flywheel, of course). If getting a pressure plate from an outside supplier, and if the price seems too good to pass up, just make sure it comes with all the rest of the bits, that's all, and not just the plate itself (for which you will have to go through the hassles of installing it). call me a skeptic, I am. rd/nigel From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 12 95 Jul EDT 1915 Date: 12 Jul 95 15:59:57 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Clicking and Clutch Andrew.. head clicking after fitting.. try checking the tappet clearances again, it is easy for the push rod to catch on the side of the tappet block when initially fitting, then after running to popinto place, this results in excessive tappet clearance and clicking!! David Brown clutch offset, have you mixed up your metric dimensions, 10 cm of offset is nearly 4 inches, the shaft will not permit this, if it is 10 mm you might get away with it, just ensure that there is clearance inside the cover and think about allowance for wear. Just heard from from the boss, Bill, he is Stateside for a few days and does not have a modem at his folks house. Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. From hval@research.IntNet.net Wed Jul 12 16:06:09 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 16:06:09 PDT From: hval@research.IntNet.net Subject: $urvey Answers Sought from LRO's I would like to present a unique opportunity for you to influence the introduction of a new offroad accessory, and make a quick buck at the same time. I'm Russ Hval, and I work for Ducker Research, a marketing research firm in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. We're doing a study for a large company that is bringing a new halogen lamp to market. The primary objective of the study is to determine the relative importance of product attributes as perceived by off-road/rough-road enthusiasts. If you're interested, please email me. I'll send you a short (10 question) survey to edit and return. In appreciation, we'll send you $10 cash within 2 working days. Thanks a lot, Russ Hval email: hval@research.intnet.net ------------------------ hval@research.IntNet.net ------------------------ From "Sean McInerney" 12 1995 Jul U 1915 Date: 12 Jul 1995 15:46:13 U From: "Sean McInerney" Subject: 101"FC Axles REGARDING 101"FC Axles I have a few questions (probably for UK LROs) about the hubs, axles, and brakes on 101" Forward Control Land Rovers. Does anyone have their parts catalog and shop manual handy?....... 1. What is the track width hub-to hub? 2. What is the width between the leaf-spring mountings? 3. Do these axle housings contain Salisbury 24-spline axles and differentials? Are the halfshafts simply longer than for the 109"? 4. If yes to #3, except for the 6-stud hubs, are the driving members, axle bearing shafts (tubes) and bearings the same as for earlier leaf sprung vehicles? Does the 101"FC also make use of the same swivel balls, swivel housings, and steering relay as earlier vehicles, albeit with a longer track rod and drag link? 5. Does the 101"FC share springs with the 109" 1-ton? 6. Brakes....Does the 101"FC share its drums, backing plates, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder (servo?) with any other vehicle.....perhaps, the 109" V6 or V8. If not, how big are they? Sean C. McInerney 1963 IIa 88" HT "Friends call it 'The Beast'.....but everyone seems to call them that!" From tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg) Wed Jul 12 16:17:24 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 16:17:24 EDT From: tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg) Subject: Range Rover front brush bars Hi everyone. I've been looking at aftermarket brush bars for a Range Rover. Which bars can you recommend, from Atlantic British, Rover's North, DAP or Range Rover OEM (the one with a dip in the middle). Maybe some one is looking to sell theirs? I'm open to suggestions. And how can I get them shipped to me for less than $140, I'm in NYC. Thanks Tony B From Steven M Denis Wed Jul 12 16:34:03 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 16:34:03 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis Subject: gearboxes *I* am not risking life and limb here..but..the "normal" failures in the gearbox (both series) tend to the "I'm gunna give ya trouble on every shift" rather than the "OH! you want to move *forward?!?" type...the countershft (layshaft) can break and leave you with only high gear (both high and low range tho...a *2* speed!) Chancge the oil in all units and check for debris and such..if no itty-bitty parts are in the oil and they function properly, (like no hopping out of 2nd on the overrun) I'd say short of a full teardown on all vehicle you should make it home...leave the extra 'box in a crate to have friends and family ship it out as a last resort....see Tom's note on weight/failure connection... good road steve.... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis PO Box 296 Fulton, New York USA 13069 From Steven M Denis Wed Jul 12 16:52:05 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 16:52:05 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis Subject: turbo snorkles et al If the turbo fails it is very likley that the wee bits will be imbedded in the crowns of the pistons if not found in a puddle of smoking oil on the roadway...however if the turbo is removed and the oil feed and drain lines plugged, the intake and exhaust routed correctly (perhaps by replacing only the housing with the guts removed) the engine will run purfetly well in the normally apiriated mode....the extra fuel is added buy the pump only under boost...there is an aneroid on the top of the pump to account for the increased manifold pressure...no pressure? no more fuel..instant NA diesel.....had a customer with a Audi 2.0 diesel...the line from the manifold to the pump was off...she ran it that way for 2 years...no power...but no other problems... the lack of restriction on the new air cleaner (or maybe it's got more?) will upset the mixture...but in your case it seems that it has *corrected* the mixture a vacuum gauge hooked between the air filter and the carb would tell the tale...... steve... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis PO Box 296 Fulton, New York USA 13069 From "Tom Rowe" Wed Jul 12 16:31:56 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 16:31:56 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: snip; Frame maintenance-undercoating?'s David Rosenbaum writes: > In response to the "waxoil" info, Rovers North (Autumn,'94) Newsletter > recommends renewing the undercoating on the D90 chassis annually. What do [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > '94 D90 > ('66 Scout, '55 Chev, 5 Bicycles) David, what's popular in VT is bar & chain oil. Warmed slightly and sprayed underneath it makes an effective rust preventative. It's messy, but it does a good job. It's sticky enough that it adhers well. Idealy, clean the underside, let it dry, oil it, then drive in the dirt. The dirt should be a place where they don't spread salt. Watch out, in some parts of the US they use salt in the summer to keep down dust on dirt roads. Don't use used engine oil as some outfits do. It has corrosive engine residue. I should say that the good places use bar oil, and also drill holes in the door posts etc. and put it in there too. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Tom Rowe" Wed Jul 12 16:53:53 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 16:53:53 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: turbo snorkles et al Steve Denis wrote: > the roadway...however if the turbo is removed and the oil feed and drain > lines plugged, the intake and exhaust routed correctly (perhaps by > replacing only the housing with the guts removed) the engine will run > purfetly well in the normally apiriated mode....the extra fuel is added I think it would be worth a try, but I wonder about the opening from the exhaust side to the intake side. I thought about this in my first reply, but was concerned about that. You'd get some exhaust going into thte intake, but that shouldn't be a problem. Of more concern to me would be sucking cold intake air into the exhaust on deceleration. I know diesels don't create much vacuum at that point, unless you have a Jake Brake ,(actually not even then I guess). That was my main concern. I suppose you could plug the hole, on the exhaust side only, with a wooden plug you've fashioned with your trusty Swiss Army knife, but again, I'm concerned, that it would eventually char away. But, if you're in the outback and no other way home most anything is worth a try. Maybe you idea, Steve, about the gearbox would apply. Keep one at a friends, ready to ship. What are your thoughts on the open passage through the housing? I haven't tried running a turbo like that so this is all theory. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Russell G. Dushin" Wed Jul 12 18:12:01 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 18:12:01 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Gearbox weight (fwd) > > Are SIII and SII transfer 'boxes completely the same internally? > No, in fact they're quite different internally. Only externally they're [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > at around 100 kg, I infer the gearbox weighing thereabouts, give our take > a few milligramms :-) ...never actually weighed it, though. Re gearbox weight.....'tis all in the gears.....the casing weighs next to nothing.....keep it complete and neat and it won't be slopping all about your rear box. which shim?, what gear?, dis shaft?, rd/nigel From tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Thu Jul 13 09:37:23 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 09:37:23 +0930 From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Subject: RE: Gearboxes >>> ... Repair time isn't a problem, but do the casings crack?. >>Never heard of such an incident. After buying a reconditioned (ex-army) gearbox, bolting it onto our Vehicle (Series IIA) and driving around for a day or two we found it continually leaked (a typically British vehicle - oil dripping everywhere). After examining it we found that it had a hairline split running almost the length of the face of it (Not in a straight line though). Needless to say we took it back but it shows that it can happen. Sorry I can't help by telling you how it happened. It was ex-army maybe they were a bit rought on it???!! :-) Tiffany Downing Co-ordinator, International Student Program TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA Phone: (61 8) 226 3202 Fax: (61 8) 226 3655 E-Mail: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Wed Jul 12 17:23:36 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 17:23:36 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: dreaming In message <199507122348.SAA00771@butler.uk.stratus.com> writes: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > need diesel defender 110. i live in usa, so i must import. anyone have any [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > thanks. > robert 1) Move out of North America 2) Purchase one of the 300 US spec 110 four doors, install diesel and swap V8 back each time you need to take SMOG test 3) Become citizen of a different country, get a work visa and bring it in as a temporary import 4) Purchase a pre-SMOG 109, get it registered and rebuild it using all new 110 diesel parts 5) Convience the Feds to change their regulations 6) convience Rover to create and import US spec 110 diesels 7) Purchase the car you want but go outside the US to visit it 8) Decide that you really wanted a US spec Defender 90 with petrol V8 instead 9) Decide that you really wanted a pre -1968 109 10) just day dream about having one TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Wed Jul 12 18:17:36 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 18:17:36 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: `95 4.0 SE RECALL There is a voluntary recall program recently implemented which affects the U.S. 4.0 SE and a possible brake hose/fitting failure on one particular hose. At this point, NO 4.0 SE's delivered (at least from Metro West) have experienced a failure of the affected part. It IS a short fix as far as time is concerned. All owners of the involved vehicles are being notified to arrange a service as soon as is practicable. The recall does NOT involve 1995 Range Rover LWB's or Classic models. cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! From tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Thu Jul 13 10:58:56 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 10:58:56 +0930 From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Subject: Steering Wheel Oil Thanks to the person who brightened up my day with the Tale of the Steering Wheel Oil. I am a member of the Land Rover Register of South Australia (Inc.) and I know that our club members would really enjoy the story. I've left it at home so I can't remember who wrote it, but would you mind if I reprinted it for our club magazine. I'll even send you a copy of the magazine if you like so you can show everyone you're famous. Our next Committee meeting is Monday 17th July and all articles for the magazine need to be in at that meeting. Could you leave a message for me to let me know if it is alright. Thanks!!! Tiffany Downing Co-ordinator, International Students Program TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA Phone: (61 8) 226 3202 Fax: (61 8) 226 3655 E-Mail: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au From Andy Dingley Thu Jul 13 00:42:06 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 00:42:06 From: Andy Dingley Subject: Lightweight front propshaft A friend has a IIA lightweight LandRover (military airportable) with a V8 conversion. I knew he was having front propshaft problems with worn splines. When I found myself in LR Supermarket in Liverpool recently, I saw that they had a clearance deal on brand new military propshafts, so I picked one up. Now we've found the thing doesn't fit - it's an inch or so too short. Does anyone know if Series IIA & III lightweights had different propshaft lengths ? LR Supermarket had 3 shafts in stock; "military lightweight" (front & rear) and 101 FC fronts. All were new & well wrapped. I made a point of asking, but the guy behind the counter was certain that any lightweight front prop was interchangeable. -- Andy Dingley dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk Speed kills, but Bull Bars enable you to kill at lower speeds From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Wed Jul 12 20:22:48 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 95 20:22:48 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: where is jimmy patrick If any one knows where jimmy patrick is can they please e mail me pls or if any one has a phone number it would be appreciated. rgds Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Wed Jul 12 19:42:07 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 19:42:07 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: TDi for Export (not in USA) Robert Matzner writes: > need diesel defender 110 for long term exploration of central-south america. i live in usa, so i must import . anyone have any ideas how to go about this? thanks. Contact Rovers North, they can sell you a Defender 110 Diesel for export (not for use in the USA). They are much cheaper than US versions ($21,000 for a regular hard top, $25,000 for Station Wagon 4 cylinder Turbo Diesel 300TDi). Call them in Vermont at 802-879-0032. There is also a provision in the US customs code to allow a vehicle into the US on a temporary basis (ie. vehicles registered in S. America in the US as visitors, cars for a specific function -rally or display, cars not to be registered here ever -for use on private property, etc.) which will allow you time to equip or modify the vehicle. Didn't I reply to this message just a few days ago? Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Wed Jul 12 23:04:09 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 23:04:09 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Gearboxes Andy Grafton asks how much a gearbox casing weighs and if they crack. Went out to the garage and picked a cracked, empty shell up....maybe 10 pounds, certainly no more than 15. The aluminum casting is surprisingly light. This one bit the dust when a 109 ate a telephone pole at speed. My brother bought the wreck for parts. Unless you do something truly catastrophic, I would make more sense to pack all the inards in oiled paper for an expedition. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Wed Jul 12 23:04:13 1995 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 1995 23:04:13 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Waxoyl, again Speaking of Waxoyl...Russell, did you ever get the taste out of your mouth? For those who came in late, Mr. Dushin did a bit of investigative reporting a while ago that had me ROFL. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From Dixon Kenner Thu Jul 13 01:02:44 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 01:02:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: dreaming On Wed, 12 Jul 1995, TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > 1) Move out of North America Move to Canada. In the next couple years they will be legal here (silly Yankee laws...) [Mexico is probably even more lax. Remember, USA does not spell "NORTH AMERICA" They just own the middle bit, though have some delusions sometimes...] > 2) Purchase one of the 300 US spec 110 four doors, 500 USA spec. 5 door or 25 Canadian spec. 5 door 110's. A early IIA 109 Station Wagon is a better built, better deal anyway. Just add a TDi. If you want to be really fancy, get a 110 coil rolling chassis for the TDi and early IIA Station Wagon. > install diesel and swap V8 back each time you need to take > SMOG test Install a diesel, a 2.5 TDi if you wish and forget about it. (see #1, PS no smog in Canada either...) > 3) Become citizen of a different country, get a work visa and bring > it in as a temporary import See #1, go to UK if need be. #3 is generally a good idea anyway... > 4) Purchase a pre-SMOG 109, get it registered and rebuild it using > all new 110 diesel parts Purchase a 1980 109, import it legally and modify with legal 110 diesel parts. > 5) Convience the Feds to change their regulations Yeah, 15 years is too long... :-) > 6) convience Rover to create and import US spec 110 diesels Convince Rover that they could sell a lot more 110 diesels to cheap Canadian-types if they stripped all the California yuppie shit from them. (Big V8 & roll cage etc) > 7) Purchase the car you want but go outside the US to visit it Canada is closer than you think, though most Americans don't know where it is on a map. Well, they don't know where the next state is either. > 8) Decide that you really wanted a US spec Defender 90 with petrol > V8 instead That Winchester looks pretty good. Pull the trigger and end the suffering... Drugs can help this delusion too... :-) > 9) Decide that you really wanted a pre -1968 109 Now you're talking... > 10) just day dream about having one Naw, I think I'll just phone the UK and get that 101 for commuting to work tomorrow... :-) Time for another Guinness... :-) Rgds From Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Thu Jul 13 08:16:12 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 08:16:12 +0200 (MET DST) From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Subject: truncated messages Hi Land Rovers > Dixon Kenner's message about winches got truncated at > >"...a mountain of......" > is anyone else having this problem? ie.Is it the Major or my reader? I've got this problem since I'm on the list. First I thought that it was due to my filter program (I'm on several mailing lists and sort them into different files with filter of the elm package) but as I hear now it must be the Major or his gateway or something like this. To see how many mails are actually truncated I'd propose that we all add a end_of_message_line at the end of the sig like I did here (hope that this mail isn't truncated) Cheers Franz ------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] exmil. 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._ end_of_message# From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Thu Jul 13 15:54:26 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 15:54:26 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re:dreaming and dixon Hmmm Dixon, have we been sworking late on our landy again??? This USA V's Canada rivalry is almost as serious as (all other OZ states) V's Victoria (g) Guinness, Bah, *Real* land-rover owners drink Coopers Ale or Extra Stout.... Ooops time to run and hide. It wasnt me i never logged on today :-) -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) P.S. When you get your 101 will you get one for me too? (pleaFrom Mr Ian Stuart Thu Jul 13 09:17:07 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 09:17:07 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: RE: Gearboxes On 13 Jul 95, Tiffany Downing wrote: The Army folk _never_ mistreat equipment. Everything is treated the same: beat sh*t out of it 'cos it ain't yours to fix! ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From Andrew Grafton Thu Jul 13 9:21:12 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 9:21:12 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: re: gearboxes > itty-bitty parts are in the oil and they function properly, (like no > hopping out of 2nd on the overrun) I'd say short of a full teardown on Now, say the gearbox did jump out of second occasionally on the overrun - what would be the problem? Any other 'big trouble' indicators to watch out for? How about popping out of first? The good news is that there weren't any bits in the oil. Just so I know what to look for... All the best, Andy Who's going to be madly driving around trying to get the gearboxes to pop out of gear now! From Mr Ian Stuart Thu Jul 13 09:55:06 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 09:55:06 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: RE: Gearboxes On 13 Jul 95, Mr Ian Stuart wrote: > ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 > Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. My signature just got truncated by 2 lines! ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From Spenny@aol.com Thu Jul 13 07:10:19 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 07:10:19 -0400 From: Spenny@aol.com Subject: (blue) Swivel Balls Trevor Writes..... I now have attractive french blue balls but you can't see them as they are wrapped in leather gaiters. Trevor, it was good to see you in owls head, *but* i am much releived that the subject of your blue balls did not come up, let alone get shown around. Spenny From Brian Neill Tiedemann Thu Jul 13 21:30:36 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 21:30:36 +1000 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: 101 diffs I know a few guys here in Victoria, Oz with 101s. Now since I have an active interest in Salisbury diffs, I have peered hard at the 101 centres and axles when friends have had them apart. One has 2 lock right lockers fitted recently, and the others are having air lockers made by another friend. The centre itself is the same as any other salisbury, with the exception of the spline in the side gears. This is larger to accomodate the thicker 101 axles- can't remember the exact # of splines or size, but I will ask and post. I do know that the hole in a standard salisbury cross (pinion gears run on the arms of it) is too large to cut standard LR 24 spline splines in, but just fine for '101' spline. (can anyone guess how my diff lock will work- had to get a cross with 24 spline size hole-clue). One guy here has a slightly modified 101: X-pensive 350 Chev, running LPG only- 300ish litres tank capacity I think. Custom made 20" rims with custom Disc brakes+BIG calipers. Michellan Tyres: Life about 5000Km and 70% gone! ~$400 Aus each Air diff locks as mentioned above being fitted. (His father owns the Lock Rite'd one) Centre mount PTO winch- cable paths front and rear. Tatty Soft top Awesome thingy this! Bog it if and only if U have a Mog or some kind of dozer handy to extract it- If it gets stuck then we mortals have not a prayer of extracting, but so far it seems rare to do so. Not much stops it. BTW - the salisbury in a 101 has the same axle tube OD, and a thicker wall- (smaller ID) I can get the exact dims if necessary. The Salisbury is, I believe, a 4 Pinion version of the Dana 60. All these Questions about 101vs109 running gear....what you building-huh?? seeya Brian 77RR (creak) From "Russell G. Dushin" Thu Jul 13 9:51:25 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 9:51:25 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Clutch replacement for IIA (fwd) > This Clutch is a 9 1/2" . and is fully assembled. One piece for the disk, one > complete pressure plate springs and all ready to introduce to the flywheel, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > surface and new springs, also don't want to fool around with the adjustments > on it. Ne meither. But one more question: Is this aftermarket clutch a spring activated/3 finger type or a "disc" type clutch (like the genuine 9.5" one)? rgds, rd/nige From David Rosenbaum Thu Jul 13 07:04:50 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 07:04:50 -0700 (PDT) From: David Rosenbaum Subject: undercoating; how to spray Thanks Tom for the info on bar & chain oil. How do you spray such oil? Would a garden sprayer (hand pump) work? In addition to the D90 chassis I could probably spray all of my '66 Scout, also have two IHC Cub tractors ('48 and '50) and implements that might benefit. If a garden sprayer might work, do you know if there are nozzels available that would work with oil? Another que:thD90 owners manual, under "maintenance" the subject of "Steam Cleaning" reads:"To prevent consequential rusting, any steam cleaning within the engine bay must be followed by careful re-waxing of the metallic components affected. Particular attention should be given to the steering column, engine water pipes, hose clights and the ignition coil clight." I've never steam-cleaned undercarriage or under-hood. (Just hosed out the engine compartment with the usual keeping hose away from the air intake.) Everything under the hood is slowly turning the color of dust....and I imagine that this coating might protect things from effects of water. My question is: should the engine compartment BE "steam cleaned" occasionally (if so, what would be used to "re-wax" the parts listed in owners manual, since engine water pipes get *hot*. (I once used aerosol "engine cleaner" (Gunk) at a drive-in DIY car wash on another old Scout, and all of the engine paint peeled off so I'm not too keen on that) From gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox) Thu Jul 13 10:01:58 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 10:01:58 +0000 From: gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox) Subject: Diff Locks I have a question. Reading the magazines I keep hearing reference to diff locks. What are they? My understanding is that the new LR's, full time 4wd have a selectable centre diff lock. What about us poorer folk with series models? Are diff locks the same as posi traction? Oh, and I'm still waiting for my old girl to be finished. '66 IIa. Moocho Grassee-ass Built for comfort and speed......NOT!!!! BUILT TO LAST... From Dixon Kenner Thu Jul 13 10:10:15 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 10:10:15 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re:dreaming and dixon On Thu, 13 Jul 1995, Daryl Webb wrote: > Hmmm Dixon, have we been sworking late on our landy again??? This > USA V's Canada rivalry is almost as serious as (all other OZ states) V's > Victoria (g) Gotta keep away from the keyboard after a collation party for the OVLR newsletter... :-) Besides, we beat the USA is 1812 -1815 fracas :-) > Guinness, Bah, *Real* land-rover owners drink Coopers Ale or Extra Stout.... Send a case... :-) Container might be more accurate though... > Ooops time to run and hide. It wasnt me i never logged on today :-) Silly Aussies... Come to a real climate. The beaches are making you go soft... > P.S. When you get your 101 will you get one for me too? (please) > Actually there is/was a 101FC camper conversion for sale here (OZ) for > ~$38K You ahve a 15 yr rule too, or what is the limits on bringing in interesting stuff from the UK? From "Tom Rowe" Thu Jul 13 09:28:32 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 09:28:32 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: truncated messages Interesting phenomena. I got David Rosenbaum's message twice. One was complete, the other had the last line truncated at "...I'm not too keen...." Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From Randy Rose 13 1995 Jul GMT 1915 Date: 13 Jul 1995 15:14:29 GMT From: Randy Rose Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest From: Andy Dingley Subject: Lightweight front propshaft saw that they had a clearance deal on brand new military propshafts, so I picked one up. Now we've found the thing doesn't fit - it's an inch or so too short. Does anyone know if Series IIA & III lightweights had different propshaft lengths ? Sounds like you have a rear driveshaft, which is shorter that the front! Randy Rose '57 107 From Alan Richer 13 95 Jul EDT 1910 Date: 13 Jul 95 10:54:13 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Anybody ever A/C a Series IIa? Well, I hate to do this, but the MDs tell me I have to... Due to lung problems, i have been advised to not own a car without air conditioning. With my present Mazda, this isn't a problem. However, old Churchill cannot become my daily driver unless I can figure out how to cram an air conditioner under the hood or elsewhere. Anybody got any good ideas on this one? Believe me, I wouldn't want to do this unless it was a choice between LR ownership and no LR ownership. Signed, Breathless.... Al Richer From DANCSC@aol.com Thu Jul 13 11:56:19 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 11:56:19 -0400 From: DANCSC@aol.com Subject: Re: Russ is mailing cash? In a message dated 95-07-13 06:33:10 EDT, you write: >If you're interested, please email me. I'll send you a short (10 question) >survey to edit and return. In appreciation, we'll send you $10 cash within 2 >working days. >Thanks a lot, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >Thanks a lot, >Russ Hval Russ, I can answer your questions for you. hey, maybe if you sent me like, 5000 of those questionaires(survey thingies) I could come up with a down payment for the D90. Dan of Rosa 1800.862.7520 care of CSC 631 martin avenue Rohnert Park, Ca. 94928 From "Peter C. Parsons" Thu Jul 13 11:46:49 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 11:46:49 -0600 From: "Peter C. Parsons" Subject: Disco exhaust bolts coming loose I had posted to the group last week, saying that my 94 Disco was making noise, as if it had an exhaust leak developing. I called the dealer, in denver, and described it to them. The service manager immediatly said, "Oh it's the bolts on the exhaust manifold to exhuast pipe on the side of the engine at the bottom. It happens to all Disco's. Just snug them up, or bring it by. So I looked. The bolts weren't loose, all three of them are gone! I least I know the problem. I've put new ones on (8mm 1.0 fine pitch) for you other Disco owners that are at about 7k miles of use... The dealership did say they would put a new gasket on and redo it when next I could bring it by... -Peter _______ |--' | \_|_ |___ +-- ] [|_/-\____/-\|} (O) (O) '94 Disco "far superior to carrying your young in your mouth" -Peter C. Parsons, __________ |/\^_/v^/\^| | SKYROVR | |_colorado_| From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Thu Jul 13 09:58:39 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 09:58:39 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: Anybody ever A/C a Series IIa? In message <199507131550.KAA02137@butler.uk.stratus.com> Alan Richer writes: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > Well, I hate to do this, but the MDs tell me I have to... [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] > to do this unless it was a choice between LR ownership and no LR > ownership. > Signed, Breathless.... I saw a Dormobile at Scotty's a few months ago that had factory air conditioning. The original sales slip was with the car & it was listed there. As I remember the compressor pump was mounted on the right side. The airconditioning unit itself was mounted high on the center of the bulkhead, above the engine. It required a cut in the bonnet and a cover fot the air conditioning unit. It covered the space where the scuttle vents are located and used the scuttle vents for the air conditioner output. This of course means no bonnet mounted tyre. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg) Thu Jul 13 14:00:37 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 14:00:37 EDT From: tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg) Subject: Camel Trophy Does anyone know when ESPN will broadcast this? Or when and where is the actual thing being held? Thanks TonyB From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Thu Jul 13 11:46:15 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 11:46:15 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Anybody ever A/C a Series IIa? > to cram an air conditioner under the hood... > Anybody got any good ideas on this one? > Signed, Breathless.... It's time for Alan Lancendorfer to stand up and tell us about his A/C 109. R, bg From BobandSueB@aol.com Thu Jul 13 15:02:19 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 15:02:19 -0400 From: BobandSueB@aol.com Subject: Re: #1(3) The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest In a message dated 95-07-13 06:33:59 EDT, I wrote, >They were from A 1 Clutch components California. >Rebuilt,But fine for 7 years now. I recently had a friend at Big A check and [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)] >LROA/NA Membership >Paradise, CA And then Bob added , this is for the 9 1/2 " clutch and the pressure plate is complete. who would mess with pieces anyway? Bob Bernar From a-robw@microsoft.com Thu Jul 13 12:10:00 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 12:10:00 PDT From: a-robw@microsoft.com Subject: FW: Seeking Disco info Dear LRO's, Being new to this group, I hope you'll forgive any inadvertant bumbling on my part, however I've decided to "upgrade" my Jeep Wrangler to a L.R. Discovery in the near future. From my recent "lurking", it seems the majority of the traffic has to do with the older (what some might call "real") Land Rovers (e.g. the SI-SIII), nevertheless, if there are any Disco owners about, I'd appreciate some feedback on their experiences (1st, 2nd or even 3rd hand) with the Discovery. Thanks in advance! -- Bob Watson a-robw@microsoft.com 70640.1025@compuserve.com From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Thu Jul 13 15:11:42 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 15:11:42 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Re: Disco exhaust bolts coming loose My just-delivered Disco has foldover metal tabs (Part of the gasket?) to keep the subject nuts from vibrating loose or off. Apparently, someone took this problem for action when it came up a while back, and the factory now turns out Discos with the engineering change incorporated. A case of the system working!!! Hank (1960 Ser2 109, 1995 Disco V8i stick) "Hey kid, they're not snakes; they're moray eels...Oh, never mind." > Subject: Disco exhaust bolts coming loose > Author: "Peter C. Parsons" at Zeus [ truncated by lro-digester (was 41 lines)] > |_colorado_| From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu Jul 13 13:39:28 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 13:39:28 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Seeking Disco info Bob Watson writes: >Being new to this group, I hope you'll forgive any inadvertant bumbling on my part, however I've decided to "upgrade" my Jeep Wrangler to a L.R. Discovery in the near future. From my recent "lurking", it seems the majority of the traffic has to do with the older (what some might call "real") Land Rovers (e.g. the SI-SIII), nevertheless, if there are any Disco owners about, I'd appreciate some feedback on their experiences (1st, 2nd or even 3rd hand) with the Discovery. Bob, <---(Is this the 'Bob' that Microsoft named that new OS after?) You haven't been lurking long enough, there are quite a few Disco owners on lro@team.net. They're probably having so much problem free fun that they don't write too often. *:) If you're on the US West Coast, you may want to subscribe to the Left Coast Rover Net and join in on the fun and activities. Write to Benjamin Allan Smith and ask to subscribe. Mail is sent to to reach the group. There are several Disco owners on the LCRN as well! In the mean time you can check the events calendar via anonymous ftp: in the file /pub/users/bens/Land_Rover_Events or the Web ftp://owens.ridgecrest.ca.us/pub/users/bens/Land_Rover_Events Right now the file looks like this (no fancy html stuff, just ascii text). Tread Lightly! Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri Jul 14 11:28:12 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:28:12 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Beaches making us soft!!! dixon rebuts: > Gotta keep away from the keyboard after a collation party > for the OVLR newsletter... :-) still counts as sworking I guess > > Guinness, Bah, *Real* land-rover owners drink Coopers Ale or Extra Stout.. > Send a case... :-) Container might be more accurate though... I think we did this beer thing a few years back. Coopers extra stout has just been awarded OZ beer of the year or some such guff, kinda like a darker thicker creamier Guinness. Yum on cold nights (see below) Hey why dont you come over for Blinman 1997?? > Silly Aussies... Come to a real climate. The beaches are making > you go soft... Ok I would have agreed with this when I lived in Darwin but now I'm here in "temperate" Adelaide its always too cold to go to the beach.... (Ok so I'm a cold weather woose, take me back to the tropics NOW) (this should bring a few SA lurkers out in the open :-) > You ahve a 15 yr rule too, or what is the limits on bringing in > interesting stuff from the UK? Dixon I dont honestly know... Something to do with not having enough money to consider it. Cant be too severe as there are always lots of "californian" US muscle cars available from importers and you see the occasional car with a "special compliance" plate (ie personal import of non OZ available car eg TR8's). I wonder what Leslie knows (you still with us ??) Probably duties and taxes would kill the appeal.... cheers -- Daryl From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri Jul 14 11:40:16 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:40:16 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: 101 diffs and lockers Brian writes: > I know a few guys here in Victoria, Oz with 101s. Now since I have an > active interest in Salisbury diffs, I have peered hard at the 101 centres > and axles when friends have had them apart. One has 2 lock right lockers > fitted recently, Ok stop me if I'm wrong... Lock - rights are automatic lockers and basically just a refined (read more subtle/quieter) No-Spin "Detroit Locker" 101's run the lt95 box and as such are full-time 4x4. So how much does the lock-right camming in and out affect steering, I know a no-spin in the rear will make a 109 twitchy and have always wondered about a front applications ever since some bloke tried very hard to sell me one. on a similar note did anyone on the list find who is supplying for the Torsen diff discussed a while back, or was the one in that Disco/D90 just a prototype which never went into production???? cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Fri Jul 14 12:03:19 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 12:03:19 +0930 From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Subject: Sunshiny SA Darryl You're not running down South Australia are you |-: Nothing beats the fresh, sweet smell of the Patawolonga as they fush it out to sea! Hey. At least you don't live in Victoria!!!! If there are any Victorian's on the air please don't take offense. If you own a Land Rover you must be okay!! :-) It's not the people in Victoria I take offense to it's just your government!!! Are there any other South Australian's out there screaming down the SuperHighway in their Land Rover? Tiffany Downing Co-ordinator, International Student Program TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA Phone: (61 8) 226 3202 Fax: (61 8) 226 3655 E-Mail: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 13 95 Jul EDT 1922 Date: 13 Jul 95 22:34:18 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer.... Speaking as a homebrewer, the best beer for an independent, self-maintained Landy-owning proper type is homebrew, of course! As i sit here enjoying a nice dark porter, i will ponder the proper style of beer and report later...8*) -ajr From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri Jul 14 12:39:00 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 12:39:00 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Sunshiny SA (joke) Tiff bravely writes: > If there are any Victorian's on the air please don't take offense. If you > own a Land Rover you must be okay!! :-) Well Craig's offline :-(, Looks like LLoyds on holidays, and Brian wont take offense will he (g) > Are there any other South Australian's out there screaming down the > SuperHighway in their Land Rover? More like clogging it up with oil, gung and wasted bandwidth (sorta like me) Cant half tell when we gene jockeys are waiting for a gel to run or a digest to complete. eh Charlie :-) -- Daryl #end# From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Thu Jul 13 23:25:26 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 23:25:26 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Toasted Valves Well, I took the head off again...can do it in my sleep now...and stripped it, removing springs, split cones, valve spring collars, and valves. Thanks to Bill Maloney et al for talking me through this. Toasted they were...the valves. I'm assuming that is where the mysterious clicking was coming from. Now, I've got my expensive total valve kit from Rovers North and am on my way to the machine shop in the morning, and have a few questions. (1)Springs. The new ones are just one spring with no second spring inside. Do I use it like it is? (2)What about those plastic collars that sit on top of the old valve guides? Do I need them? Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Fri Jul 14 13:01:52 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 13:01:52 +0930 From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Subject: RE: Sunshiny SA (Joke) Darryl You must we working too hard and losing your memory. I just received your last note twice! (Or did it genetically replicate itself ????) Tiff :-) From Sanna@aol.com Thu Jul 13 23:44:45 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 23:44:45 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: Range Rover front brush bars Tony - My '89 RR has a lamp gaurds, bush bar and winch from Atlantic British. Here are my observations.... Don't get the lamp gaurds, especially the rear ones. I doubt that you'll ever need them for anything but "looks", and in snowy climes they form very efficient snow baskets that obscure the head and tail lights. The bush bar is great, however. What I have done to the front of my RR is to remove the plastic spoiler (actually, a snow bank did most of that for me - p.s.: the bush bar works very well with the air dam in place as well), mount the bush bar, move the driving lamps from the air dam up between the bush bar verticals, beneath the bumper on either side of the front plate, and mount a 8,000# Super Winch in front of the grill on the bush bar. I then cleaned off all the tacky SuperWinch logos, got a LR green oval from AB, and fixed it to the front of the winch. The bush bar is very practical, more for hanging on to and strapping stuff to your front end. You'll be surprized at what you'll use it for (everything but kangaroos). The one disadvantage is that it makes the task of changing a headlamp into a two hour ordeal. The RR grill easily folds forward after loosing a few tabs under the hood for headlamp repair, but with the bar in place it has no place to fold forward to. My set up is more complicated because of the extra winch fixings. Hope this helps - Tony - From Sanna@aol.com Thu Jul 13 23:46:29 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 23:46:29 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: Anybody ever A/C a Series IIa? Yes - 1) Remove top. 2) Fold windshield. - From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu Jul 13 20:58:47 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 20:58:47 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Sunshiny SA (joke) Daryl Webb writes: >Looks like LLoyds on holidays,... Anyone else get this message when accessing his WWW page? 403 Forbidden Your client does not have permission to get URL /~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover from this server. >Cant half tell when we gene jockeys are waiting for a gel to run or a digest to complete. eh Charlie :-) So what's a "gene jockey", someone who's always running around looking to complete their chromosome chain? Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect AFrom Mr Ian Stuart Fri Jul 14 08:44:09 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 08:44:09 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Re: Sunshiny SA (joke) On 13 Jul 95, Michael Carradine wrote: > to complete their chromosome chain? There's a hint in the title: "gene JOCKEY". Jockey's ride, so obviously a "gene jockey" is someone who's paid to ride genes :-) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From Peter Aslan Fri Jul 14 09:34:22 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 09:34:22 +0100 (BST) From: Peter Aslan Subject: Re: Clutch replacement for IIA (fwd) thought I'd chip in here.. I just purchased a new clutch 'cover' from Craddocks (sp). This is 9 inch I guess,, 9 seperate springs, presure plate cover, the whole thing. Cost about 27 quid, a plesent supprise. I was also concerned that I'd end up with a 'bag-o-bits' and the details in the manual for setting it up were a bit frightning. Comparing the pressure it takes to depress the three fingers shows, that it is possible on the old assembily, a bit too easy really. The new one however is realy tight, I'm unable to move it, the guy in the shop said it was probably original, comes from a 1960 S2. It feels good to find the cause of a problem, theres nothing more frustrating than tearing somthing down, finding nothing, putting it back together only to find the same fault. Now, the friction plate was out of stock, but the old one is still serviceable. They said these plates were becoming more and more difficult to find, they charge a big surcharge unless the old one is handed in, so they can re-condition it I guess. Regards, Peter Aslan (aka Captain Norton). Louden Quill Award. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- McDonnell Information Systems Boundary Way Hemel Hempstead Voice: 01442 273324 Hertfordshire HP2 7HU Fax: 01442 244896 ENGLAND Mail: paslan@uk.mdis.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Fri Jul 14 10:14:22 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 10:14:22 UNDEFINED From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: Undercoating \In response to the "waxoil" info, Rovers North (Autumn,'94) Newsletter \recommends renewing the undercoating on the D90 chassis annually. What do \you use as "undercoating" and how is it applied? Given the awful \reputation of the "rustproofing" franchaises that flourished in the US in \the '70's, is there any good commericial "undercoating" company or is it \better to do it yourself? Also, what is "POR-15". I inject the inside of the chassis tubes once every 5 years and spray the whole outside of it every autumn. It is 11 years old and the cchassis is as new. Most of teh others of that age are a MESS. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Fri Jul 14 10:23:15 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 10:23:15 UNDEFINED From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: truncated messages > Dixon Kenner's message about winches got truncated at > >"...a mountain of......" > is anyone else having this problem? ie.Is it the Major or my reader? What (still) pisses me off is the way that MajorDomo chooses to 'save' bandwidth by deleting long inclusions. So you regularly get a really interesting looking reply to something with only the first line, or so. Then [truncated gratuitously] message,. Then the last line. So all this useful info comes to nowt cos you cant tell what the hell its about. Any chance of dropping this 'useful' design feature??? I. for one would rather have the fulll inclusions and a little more bandwidth. This list doesnt have noise problems, so the occasional waste of bandwidth would be more than cocmensated by having the full information. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From zebra@xs4all.nl (Bastiaan Houtkooper) Fri Jul 14 11:50:02 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:50:02 +0200 From: zebra@xs4all.nl (Bastiaan Houtkooper) Subject: Replacement Bumbers Disco I am looking for replacement bumbers for the "plastic"ones on my '95 Disco 300 TDI. The front seems no problem because there are a lot of replacement (winch) bumbers available, but did anybody see anything good for the back. I would like to have a "real"strong Rover again! ( I am also interested in drawings of home made designs) Bastiaan Houtkooper From zebra@xs4all.nl (Bastiaan Houtkooper) Fri Jul 14 11:50:05 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:50:05 +0200 From: zebra@xs4all.nl (Bastiaan Houtkooper) Subject: Replacement Bumbers Disco I am looking for replacement bumbers for the "plastic"ones on my '95 Disco 300 TDI. The front seems no problem because there are a lot of replacement (winch) bumbers available, but did anybody see anything good for the back. I would like to have a "real"strong Rover again! ( I am also interested in drawings of home made designs) Bastiaan Houtkooper From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Fri Jul 14 11:43:38 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:43:38 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: Gene Jockey At 9:44am 14/7/95, Mr Ian Stuart wrote: >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net >On 13 Jul 95, Michael Carradine wrote: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >There's a hint in the title: "gene JOCKEY". Jockey's ride, so obviously a >"gene jockey" is someone who's paid to ride genes No, no, no... It's more like a disc-jockey. We're responsible for changing your genes smoothly and efficiently and with such skill you'll never know you're evolving until one day you'll wake up and realise that you've been washing your Series machine, changing your underwear out of habit instead of need, eating vegetables with your beer, and understanding things like Lucus electrics... But don't thank me, it's only my job... ;-) Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From 14 95 Jul EDT 1907 Date: 14 Jul 95 07:31:52 EDT From: Subject: Proper Land Rover Beer Picking up on Alan Richer's thread about homebrewing. Have you tied "The Firkin Brewery's" Dogbolter yet? This is some serious stuff, (falling down water) it's a dark porter with SG=4.8+ (1048-50) Brewed in 25/30 pint batches (or more if you have the facilities) Glenn (pissed of Woodham) From Mike Rooth Fri Jul 14 12:36:41 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 12:36:41 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Gene Jockey Humph,more likely washing our underwear *in* the Series Machine, drinking pints of vegetables and trying to eat beer with a knife! Anyway,I thought Gene was a cowboy:-) Cheers Mike Rooth From Brian Neill Tiedemann Fri Jul 14 21:56:02 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 21:56:02 +1000 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: diff locks ++ In reply to Gowyn and Daryl (and all who think about going to the beach when the MAX temperature during the day is 7 degrees C _shivvvvver_). Now on the diff locks, most series LRs have the ability to select 2 or 4 wheel drive, and when in 4WD, the drive to the front and rear comes off a common point in the transfer gearbox. In a full time 4WD like a RR or Disco or many others, there must be some "give" between front and rear drive shafts - think about the different distances travelled by each individual wheel, NOT the same, so if driving front and rear all the time, on a grippy surface (bitumen) then a diff between front and rear driveshafts will provide for the "give" needed. When you series folk engage 4WD and lock hubs (if you have them), Mr R Over says thou shalt not be on bitumen... This is for the reason given above- the front and rear will be wanting to go different distances when turning corners, so huge forces (evil + dark) will be set up in the T case. These should not be unleashed! On non-grippy (read mud-n-stuff) surfaces, that 'centre diff' will help you get stuck sooner- only one wheel need lose grip to lose forward progress. SO - we three diffed ones are blessed with a lock system (on the centre diff only :( ) this stops the differential action when engaged- making our drive trains then equivalent to a series in 4WD- again not to be locked on bitumen. This centre diff is _much_ smaller than the front and rear ones, and does not like to spin hard, so MY opinion is that it should be locked as soon as you are on a surface where the wheels can slip enough to provide the "give" mentioned above- trivial extra tyre wear, and better control and capability result, and expensive (trust me) centre diff rebuilds are avoided. The locked diff is WAY more robust than when it is free to spin. Now, given all that, to have this type of lock system on a front and rear diffs would make a more capable, even if difficult to steer vehicle. If 1 end is locked, 3 wheels must slip to lose traction, and 2 means all four must slip before you stick- true 4 wheel drive. Detroit lockers and Lock-Rites are a form of always locked unless cornering diff setup without gears in the centre- smart people designed these, very trikky :).Diff remains locked until 1 axle trys to turn Faster than the carrier- only happens when cornering with grip. The detroit system has more inherent backlash than the lock rite, and I am told that the lock rite is more driver friendly when used in the front, but I have never driven with a front one. Both should re lock if enough power is applied to bring axles back to equal speeds. Vacuum lockers, Air Lockers, and various manual lockers are all selectable- that is they remain as a free diff until you want to activate the lock system. These are often supplied with heavier axles- (as should the above types really I suppose) because with the diff locked, it is possible that the full weight of the vehicle, and the full engine horsepower could be applied to only one wheel- strain strain *snap* :($. Limited slip diffs do just that, slip by an amount less than a free diff. This still provides some drive in a 1 wheel spin situation, and allows the cornering differential action as well. I think that a Posi-Traction falls into this category, but I'm not sure. Torsen diffs, I believe, are even smarter than detroits, behaving as a free diff, and a locked diff depending upon spin/throttle action- does anyone know where I might find a detailed description/diagram of the operating mechanism used. I am intrigued! The principal used is that of a worm gear being able to drive a spur gear, but the spur being unable to drive the worm, but the exact method that this is applied I can only imagine, as I have not seen one in bits. Lastly, on the when to lock the centre diff thread, my RR is quite capable in reverse, most of the time, as RRs are actually heavier over the rear axle than the front, so mostly (not always I admit) if I drive in and get stuck, I can reverse out, or at least rock back and forward in hope. I prefer to look after my centre diff rather than have the "traction fuse" effect of driving until it spins (then maybe welds itself together or snaps). There's always the hand winch- soon PTO (or some Canned Loser as a LAST resort- usually behind anyway. (still looking for a PTO for 4spd RR ....... anyone???) still suffering lysdexia :} and long winded posts- wanna write a diffs FAQ? Brian 77 RR (Unoffended- so far) From Easton Trevor Fri Jul 14 08:25:00 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 08:25:00 DST From: Easton Trevor Subject: Blue Balls, Leaks and Draughting Pulling into the driveway last night I noticed a large pool of oil under Miss Golightly's left side swivel ball. Having just expounded the virtues of epoxy repairs to balls I was a little concerned (Was this another case of LRODS "Land Rover Owner Digest Syndrome", everything is fine until you mention it on the digest, then everyone has a problem). Closer examination after removal of the gaiters found the ball surface clean and smooth with only a small amount of oil inside the gaiter. So where did the puddle come from? As I swung the steering I suddenly noticed that the steering arm and brake drum were not moving in unison and the four bolts holding the arm were all loose. These bolts were torqued and lock tabbed when the swivels were rebuilt, I retorqued them and reset the tabs. Any opinions on how they came to be loose. The right side was checked and all were tight. Apologies in advance to all those whose steering arms will now become loose, During our trip to The Down East I was able to make the following observations regarding speeds. Miss Golightly has standard ratios, no overdrive and 205/85/16 rubber. 1000 rpm equals 16 mph (Indicated). In the mountains where it required 2nd gear for the uphill portion, it was possible to maintain 50 mph foot off in gear downhill. Hills that were just climbable in top could be coasted down at 55mph with the wind resistance just equal to the gravity. Look Ma no feet!. Going to Boston down I95 we were able (Unable to avoid) draught several large trucks. It was possible to maintain 65 mph with just a tickle of accelerator when close (< 10ft) behind a truck but the affects on engine temperature were soon apparent and the effects on personal stress level for both the driver and poor Mary as an innocent passenger were immediate. One theory I have heard put forward is to travel so close that if the truck suddenly slows you immediately become part of the trailer with only a slight impact. Trevor Easton, 1962 SIIA SWB SW Miss Golightly From Sanna@aol.com Fri Jul 14 08:28:31 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 08:28:31 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: Range Rover front brush bars >The one disadvantage is that it makes the task of changing a headlamp into a two hour ordeal. Oh yes, and I forgot to add.... Changing a tailight also turns into a two hour (almost) ordeal as well. The large plastic knob that should make loosening the shield to swing it away on its hinges easy, turns an aluminum bolt that oxidizes to its aluminum nut almost imediately, and strips. Not a good design. - From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 14 95 Jul EDT 1908 Date: 14 Jul 95 08:28:45 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Diff. Locks; AC in Series > ...... My understanding is that the new LR's, full time > 4wd have a selectable centre diff lock. What about us poorer folk with > series models? Are diff locks the same as posi traction? No, no... Series folks are much better off! When you engage 4WD you have fully automatic instantaneous locking of both axles! Have pitty on the others who have to start fiddling around with their little joystick whenever they need traction. The Series are much more technically advanced... ;-) ------------------------------- Re: AC, the optional AC for the Defender 110 County has the condenser thing sitting not on the bulkhead but *in front* of the radiator, with the front grille ('breakfast'?) protuding out and frontwards beyond the bumper... bit of a silly construction for an off-road vehicle IMO. However, on a Series where the radiator is set back quite a bit, this setup might be a viable solution, i.e. moving the grill more up front to make room for the condenser (the grill would in fact be a kind of rectangular basket). It would make the AC more efficient, and you wouldn't be bonnet-challenged. Inside dashboard-wise, you loose the entire shuttle vent-with-tray, instead you have a vertical insulated plastic fascia over the entire width, with 4 adjustable vents that conduct the cooled air. The compressor sits top left from the engine, like the generator, but other side. You'll need a double-grooved pulley wheel on your crankshaft to run the additional flybelt; pulley from a 24V mil. Lightweight should work fine. On an older engine that doesn't have the aux. mounts incorporated, I'd weld or bolt some sort of supporting mount directly to the frame. Using the timing gear cover or water pump bolts to mount a compressor bracket doesn't seem like a good idea to me, as the old engines don't have any plane surface where the mount would fit flush. - Incidentally I remember that, a few years back in Greece, I saw and closely inspected a red S.III 88 hardtop that had been used by Caltex in the Arabian Gulf area and was fully air conditioned. The AC unit had multilingual Warning stickers with the Land Rover logo all over it, so it must have been some sort of original LR setup. Stefan From "Tom Rowe" Fri Jul 14 07:47:32 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 07:47:32 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: truncated messages Snip > What (still) pisses me off is the way that MajorDomo chooses to 'save' > bandwidth by deleting long inclusions. Snip > Any chance of dropping this 'useful' design feature??? Snip Andy, et al, Perhaps we could get that disabled if we all agree to snip out portions of inclusions that don't bear on the topic of our reply. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 14 95 Jul EDT 1909 Date: 14 Jul 95 9:01:15 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer.... Re: pondering: What I was pondering as I consumed the dark, rich porter was the proper beer for we independent, freedom-loving, self-reliant LandRover owners...this will require extensive research - I hope! 8*) I really should formulate a recipe to honor our aluminum friends. The only problem is avoiding the oil...8*) -Alan Line Eater Fodder Line EaterFodder From Spenny@aol.com Fri Jul 14 09:07:21 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 09:07:21 -0400 From: Spenny@aol.com Subject: Proper Land-Rover beer.... Alan writes.... Speaking as a homebrewer, Another home brewer! I brewed some Land Rover Stout for the Birthday Party, but it spoiled :-( Land Rover Stout... Looks like 90wt., tastes like heaven. Spenny From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 14 95 Jul EDT 1909 Date: 14 Jul 95 9:19:53 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Re: truncated messages > Perhaps we could get this disabled if we agree to snip >down the messages... I'm in! Who do we have to kill? 8*) -ajr From Mr Ian Stuart Fri Jul 14 14:22:25 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 14:22:25 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Re: truncated messages On 14 Jul 95, Tom Rowe wrote: > > Any chance of dropping this 'useful' design feature??? > Snip [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > Perhaps we could get that disabled if we all agree to snip out > portions of inclusions that don't bear on the topic of our reply. One vote for voluntary (?sp) cutting & ditching the helpful bit of majordomo ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From "Tom Rowe" Fri Jul 14 08:28:37 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 08:28:37 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: 101 diffs and lockers Daryl Webb writes: Snip > So how much does the lock-right camming in and out affect steering, I know a > no-spin in the rear will make a 109 twitchy and have always wondered about a > front applications ever since some bloke tried very hard to sell me one. My understanding of lockers of the Detroit genre are that they do make steering twitchy and are quite dangerous if you are driving somewhere (cliffedge road?) where you want total control of your steering. For the true lockers of the AirLocker style, ie. those that have some sort of dog that essentially makes the axles a single shaft between the wheels, you can't steer more that a degree or two. Since LR's don't have CV joints in the front axle, the two must turn at quite varying speeds, even more when you account for the different turning radii. In the front, if I had a choice, I'd go with the AirLocker and just use it to get out of a hole or what-have-you. This is second hand info as I have never had the money to install both front and rear, although I hope to soon get to it. Then maybe I can change my sig. Actually, back in the '80's when Al at DAP was racing a LR some, he had locking diffs that he sold installed in the 88 he raced. He said he saw little difference when the front was engaged as far as traction was concerned. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Tom Rowe" Fri Jul 14 08:34:02 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 08:34:02 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Gene Jockey > No, no, no... It's more like a disc-jockey. We're responsible for changing > your genes smoothly and efficiently and with such skill you'll never know [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > of need, eating vegetables with your beer, and understanding things like > Lucus electrics... Hey Charlie, now hold on a minute. My wife's a molecular biologist, spent years as a gene jocky, and I have it on good authority that mankind, no matter how much gene manipulation, will *never* understand Lucas electrics. Unless you think things like Jurassic Park are really possible. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From Mike Rooth Fri Jul 14 15:03:20 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 15:03:20 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Gene Jockey Oh come on Tom! *No-one* beleives Jurassic Park is possible. Those Jeeps and Toyotas are *totally* unbelievable. Cheers Mike Rooth From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Fri Jul 14 15:06:56 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 15:06:56 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: Re: truncated messages I think voluntary docking is a much better idea as well, but auto-docking would probably still help the digest-folk. They should (in theory) have the original copy in the same digest, while we impulsive real-timers may have thrown it away... certainly I would vote for a less stringent chopper for the real-time list... six lines should not upset it. Alternatively you can defeat it by losing the ">" mark if you think the enclosure is crucial. That effects the same result as voluntary chopping and still edits out the 'accidental' or 'lazy' inclusion of a whole message in the reply. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Fri Jul 14 15:06:38 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 15:06:38 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer.... At 9:01am 14/7/95, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus >I really should formulate a recipe to honor our aluminum friends. The only >problem is [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >Line Eater Fodder But how much fodder began? I don't know, I did a bit of brewing in my undergrad days, and you get some interesting and unexpected results from additives (citrus in the case of my attempts at a 'mead'). I suspect a little EP90 (unused) might give that sulpher an coal-tar tang so reminicent of my own greatest weakness... a single-cask strength Islay Malt Whisky. Ahhh. C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Fri Jul 14 15:07:13 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 15:07:13 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: Re: Gene Jockey At 9:34am 14/7/95, Tom Rowe wrote: >> of need, eating vegetables with your beer, and understanding things like >> Lucus electrics... >understand Lucas electrics. Unless you think things like Jurassic >Park are really possible. >Tom Hey, sometimes you just gotta stretch the truth... keep the audience's attention. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From Russell Burns Fri Jul 14 7:27:39 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 7:27:39 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: Gene Jockey > Hey Charlie, now hold on a minute. My wife's a molecular biologist, > spent years as a gene jocky, and I have it on good authority that [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > Park are really possible. > Tom I think the problem is in trying to understand Lucas electrics. My experience with Lucas electricks is that it is in a constant state of flux (pun intended). The trick is not to attempt to "fix" the problem, but to wait for it to change. Sometimes one has to influnce the rate of change, either speed it up, or slow it down, but is is usless to try to stop the change. Russ 94 d-90 91 R-Rover > Tom Rowe > UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > Four wheel drive allows you to get > stuck in places even more inaccessible. From Mr Ian Stuart Fri Jul 14 16:09:19 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 16:09:19 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: A test to see which address chops the bottom off This has been sent to lro@team.net & Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com I want to see which one (if either) leaves the bottom two lines in place :-) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From Mr Ian Stuart Fri Jul 14 16:09:19 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 16:09:19 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: A test to see which address chops the bottom off This has been sent to lro@team.net & Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com I want to see which one (if either) leaves the bottom two lines in place :-) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From BobandSueB@aol.com Fri Jul 14 11:39:43 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:39:43 -0400 From: BobandSueB@aol.com Subject: Re: #1(2) The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest RE:(clutch) In a message dated 95-07-14 04:36:18 EDT, you write: >> This Clutch is a 9 1/2" . and is fully assembled. One piece for the disk, >one >> complete pressure plate springs and all ready to introduce to the flywheel, > [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >> surface and new springs, also don't want to fool around with the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] >------------------------------ >Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 07:04:50 -0700 (PDT) >From: David R (About A1 clutch rebuilders Disk P48348, Pressure plate Assem.X47348) Hi, This clutch was 9 1/2 " diaphragm, just like the original (1969-88). One thing I liked better than a 65 version was the way the flat disc (that the release bearing pressed against), is held on to the fingers. On this one, the thing is retained by being slotted to all fingers, the (original??) on the 65 had three thin steel bands that two were dangling. By the way, this was listed in their catalog for the L/R. It is not a substitute or cross reference from another vehicle. I believe we found it under Rover cars Land-Rover. Speaking of cross references, when I put the 4cyl 1962 chev nova engine in my 51-80, I noticed the chev clutch spline seemed to fit the tranny (70) perfectly,but I used L/R clutch. Regards Bob Bernard From Dixon Kenner Fri Jul 14 11:42:27 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 11:42:27 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer.... On Fri, 14 Jul 1995, Charlie Wright wrote: > interesting and unexpected results from additives (citrus in the case of my > attempts at a 'mead'). I suspect a little EP90 (unused) might give that > sulpher an coal-tar tang so reminicent of my own greatest weakness... a > single-cask strength Islay Malt Whisky. Ahhh. Barkshack Ginger mead is pretty good stuff. Had good experience with the stuff (grin>. Its just the wait... About 3 years to get really good. As per the Islay, a man to my own heart. Love the stuff... :*) Rgds, Dixon From DANCSC@aol.com Fri Jul 14 12:02:44 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 12:02:44 -0400 From: DANCSC@aol.com Subject: Re: #1(2) The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest In a message dated 95-07-14 04:37:13 EDT, you write: >Does anyone know when ESPN will broadcast this? >Or when and where is the actual thing being held? From DANCSC@aol.com Fri Jul 14 12:08:14 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 12:08:14 -0400 From: DANCSC@aol.com Subject: Re: #1(2) Camel Trophy In a message dated 95-07-14 04:37:13 EDT, you write: >Does anyone know when ESPN will broadcast this? >Or when and where is the actual thing being held? um.. it already happened, they were dealing with mayan temples and such this year.. lots of injuries, people getting airlifted out, and the works, I saw the date for an ESPN showing, but I forgot it,sadly I lost all the pages I had printed out, for a while there was a fellow giving the daily play by play on the net here... Really exciting this year. Dan of Rosa From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Jul 14 09:07:27 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 09:07:27 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Replacement Bumbers Disco Bastiaan Houtkooper writes: >I am looking for replacement bumbers for the "plastic"ones on my '95 Disco I would like to have a "real"strong Rover again! ( I am also interested in drawings of home made designs) Here's one of our favorite home made design drawings, detail __=== ____________ | __/_]_]] __ / --> .(_______). / _] | ______(o)___(o)_______ / / | \ \ | disco \ \ | \ \ |_____ \ \_____ \ frame real strong bumper \ ____] \_____ \ \__ \___] Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Fri Jul 14 09:21 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 09:21 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: Re: Aerodynamically speaking.... >James Howard of Flagstaff write about drafting off of an 18 >wheeler...It all depends upon how brave/foolish you are. Not very - I maintained a 2 second gap. Even at that distance, the vacuum was enough to pull me along. Tailgating is one of my pet peeves. James From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Fri Jul 14 09:26 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 09:26 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: Re: Anybody ever A/C a Series IIa? >Due to lung problems, i have been advised to not own a car without air >conditioning. With my present Mazda, this isn't a problem. However, >old Churchill cannot become my daily driver unless I can figure out how >to cram an air conditioner under the hood or elsewhere. Do you need AC for the filtered air, or the cool air? Last time I was in Washignton DC, Hertz was out of the subcompacts I reserved. And compacts. And midsizes. They gave me a Crown Victoria. Once I got over feeling like a State Trooper, I noticed whenever I was in it, my allergies went completely away. It turns out it had those micron air filters in the ventilation system. It made me consider putting some in front of a big fan inside my Land Rover, though, like a lot of my projects, I haven't gotten around to trying it. Probably because the pollen has not been that bad this year. James From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 14 95 Jul EDT 1912 Date: 14 Jul 95 12:31:15 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Tutorial: On the repair of wiper motors Dixon: Here's the revised copy of the wiper motor article. I don't think I've been excessively wordy, but you as editor know best.. 8*). If possible, retain the title. I'm having an idea or two at making this a series of easy how-to-do-it article of this type. Opinions? Yours, Alan What the hell, I may as well type. I cant work on the beast....8*( Article begins: Having just had the unmitigated pleasure of reworking the wiper motors on my Series IIa 109 pickup, I've decided to pull the lessons learned in this process together into a tutorial for those fortunate souls who haven't had this pleasure... if that's what you want to call it. First off, this applies to the Lucas motors used on Series II and IIa vehicles. These are the newer motors with the rounded casings. The older motors, with their squared-off casings, from what I am told are mechanically similar but I haven't had one apart to check this personally, so beware. Secondly, any road vehicle must have functional windshield wipers. This means that they have to be on the truck and working or the local constabulary can and will pull you over and ban your vehicle from the road for this. If you're going to rework your motors, plan on doing the job in one sitting if at all possible. On to the show, then.... 1: Dismounting the motor from the truck: The motors on my car were held in place by a double-nut on a threaded shaft. Two of these were used to mount each motor, and both were badly corroded on my example. The threaded shafts ended up unscrewing from the motors, and are being replaced with the proper thread of stainless-steel bolt. With the wiper blade removed by loosening the mounting bolt and pulling it off the shaft, the motor was free to be withdrawn into the cab. I got off relatively unscathed in this process. I have heard of cases where the wiper mount, motor and windscreen have corroded themselves into an immovable mess, and one case where a windscreen had to be scrapped because the corroded hardware could not be removed (Hi, Dixon!). Replacement parts for the mounting bits are available, but make sure to protect the wiper shaft if you have to resort to force in removing the motor. Take care with it and expect to use penetrating oil and persuasion if yours are badly corroded. Also, for your own peace of mind, expect to replace the mounting studs. They can be easily fabricated from stainless-steel threaded stock, or barring that, cut-down bolts of the proper size. The two wires on the motor were then disconnected, noting the respective terminals they attached to. Pay attention here, as one of the terminals is mounted o the motor shell (and as such is grounded to the chassis). NOTE: For those of us thinking of converting positive ground cars to negative ground, these motors work quite well with either polarity grounded. They turn the same way with either polarity to the shell of the motor. 2: Disassembling the motor for cleaning: Once on the bench, I ran each motor with a 12-volt power supply. Both dragged badly, indicating that the gear grease had congealed. I removed the rear cover of the motor by removing the brass slotted nut at the center of the blade control and the two machine screws at the left and right sides of the rear cover. After this, the rear cover was free to come off, only needing a bit of persuasion with a plastic mallet to come free. Removal of the front cover was a bit more involved. The first item to be removed was a small metal block trough which the wiper shaft passed. With this block removed, the shaft spring could be released by straightening a crimped washer holding the wiper shaft in the motor. Straightening this removed the tension from the locking spring for the shaft, allowing it to slide back out through the motor. Instead of the crimped washer, I am told that some of the motors have a circlip fitted into the groove. Either way, disassembly doesn't change, but be careful not to lose the clip if so equipped. With this fastener out, the three nuts holding the front cover on can be removed. 3: Motor cleanup and check-out: Once you get to this point, your first reaction is going to be disgust at the condition and amount of filthy, pasty grease that is all over the inside of the gear case. That is precisely why we're here, as this grease is causing many problems and must be renewed. Before we disassemble anything, let's have a good look at what we're disassembling. Looking at the gearcase end, the first thing you'll see is a 110-pitch gear drilled with an offset bearing. In that bearing is the pin from a shaft that runs to a follower arm with a hole down its center. This is the bit that the wiper shaft comes out of. Under the 110-pitch gear is a double gear, which engages both the edge of the 110-pitch gear and the motor shaft. This intermediate gear is made of phenolic and, I am told, can disintegrate if the motor is abused with heavy loads. The motor shaft runs through the central casting into the back half, where the windings, rotor and switching are. What I'll be detailing here is a general cleanup/greasing/inspection. This cleared up 99% of the problems on both my motors, and seems like the favorite mode of failure for this design. If, however, once you clean up the grease and such and the motor still runs slowly or not at all, then you may have an electrical fault in the rotor or commutator coil. The repair of these is beyond the scope of this article, but it can be done by an electric motor shop if replacement parts are not available. If this is the case, though, check the brushes for proper contact and look for broken wires and similar problems. This could also be the problem, and could still be an easy fix. Now comes the fun bit, where we get REALLY dirty. Fill a small container with grease solvent - personally I like the newer orange-based stuff, as it's friendlier to the environment and my lungs. Whatever you do, don't use acetone or any cleaner that might be unfriendly to the electrical insulation on the wiring. If you can't get the orange-based cleaner, I have it on good authority that WD-40 will remove the grease without removing the wire insulation. (Hi again, Dixon!) Working carefully, remove the gears from the front of the motor and clean them in the solvent, using a toothbrush to get out the stubborn bits of gunk from the gearteeth. DON'T soak the fiber gear for an extended period - it WILL have problems if you do. Also clean the pins that are on the shaft to the follower arm of accumulated crud. Also, get a cotton swab into the bearing holes in the casting and clean them out to eliminate the old grease completely. We want to remove the follower arm from the casting to give it a good cleaning inside and out. if yours are like mine, the edges of the back of the hollow shaft are mushroomed, stopping it from sliding out. In this case CAREFULLY file away the burrs and work the shaft out of the bearings. DON'T FORCE IT OUT! You'll eat the bearings. Clean the inside hollow of the shaft with solvent, as well as the inside of the bearings the hollow shaft rode in. Use a cotton swab with solvent, being careful to keep the solvent off the electrical bits. The motor rotor's the next bit we want to deal with. Its two bronze bushings need to be cleaned and regreased. This part is tricky - If you don't feel comfortable after reading it through, then skip it if the rotor turns freely and runs OK. Remove the two nuts holding the rear bearing in place. It will slide up the motor shaft, and the carbon brushes will disengage from the copper contacts. WATCH OUT FOR THE BRUSHES! If yours is like mine, they will be slung forcefully out of the motor, landing several feet away. If lost, don't panic. Most hardware stores can provide brushes for small power tools that can be made to serve nicely with a bit of filing. As a matter of fact, I've replaced the brushes in both my motors anyway, as they were badly worn. Pivot the rear bearing assembly out of the way, being careful of the wires from the brushes to the coil below. If you're comfortable with soldering, it's much easier to simply disconnect the coil wires from the rear bearing assembly, noting which went where. With this, the rotor can be withdrawn from the stator. Clean its bearing surfaces with solvent, also the bearings themselves. 4: Reassembly: First thing to go back in is the motor rotor. Grease its bearing surfaces with a good coat of an all-purpose grease, and reinsert it into the hole in the stator. Fitting the rear bearing is a bit involved. You need to hold the brushes open with the points of a needlenose plier and slide the bearing back over the rear rotor shaft, being careful of the attached wires at all times. This is where removing the coil wires pays off, as you can slip the assembly back on much easier if you don't have the 3- dimensional motion restriction of the wires. It's easier if you present the bearing assembly so that the end of the rotor shaft can slip straight back into the bearing - hold it straight! It seems tricky, but it can be done! At worst tie the brushes back with a bit of wire so you can devote both hands to engaging the shaft. Reattach the rear bearing with the two nuts removed earlier and tighten. If you removed the coil wires or broke one off, now is the time to resolder them. Now, grease the bearings of each of the gears and put them back in place in the front of the casting. The fiber gear goes in first, then the 110-pitch gear, then reinsert the hollow shaft you took out earlier, making sure to grease all of the bearings and pivot points as you put it back together. A NOTE ON GREASE: You might want to make very sure that the lubricant you use has proper cold-weather characteristics. Some all-purpose lubricants congeal in cold weather, making the operation of the wipers very difficult. I personally used a silicon-based lubricant called Syl-Glide, as it advertised constant viscosity at colder temperatures, and up as high as +400F. Remember, these motors are going to take some pretty nasty temperature extremes sitting there in the sun, so be careful with the lubricants you choose. Once you have all of the bits back in properly, turn the rotor of the motor by hand to make sure nothing's binding. If all's well, put the front gearcase cover back on and test-run the motor, either on the bench or off your Rover's battery. If it passes, great!. Now we can put the wiper shaft back into the motor and complete reassembly. Reinsert the wiper shaft from the rear of the motor. Over the shaft from the front of the motor, slide on the cleaned tension spring and either the washer you removed to free it, or a circlip of the proper size. Personally, I went with the circlips to allow for periodic opening and regreasing of the motors. 5: Remounting: Remounting the motors is simpler than removing them, as you've already caused all the damage you're going to.... If the mounting rubbers and hardware are in good shape, all you need to do is bolt the motor back on, perhaps smearing a bit of silicone grease on the sealing rubbers where the motor shaft makes contact with them. Also, a little RTV sealant under the aluminum mounting block helps eliminate water leaks at that point. Make sure to clean away the excess, though, for a neat appearance. If you need to replace the hardware, the cast parts and the rubber gaskets are available from most Rover suppliers. The threaded rods and nuts can be had locally, though, if they're all you need. Aligning the wiper blades may be a bit tricky, but shouldn't be a problem with a bit of attention to detail. Present the motor to its installation spot on the windscreen with the rear handle in the parked (off) position, then mount and fasten the wiper blade where it should be (pointing to the right while facing the wiper blade from outside the car). This makes sure everyone's in agreement as to the way things need to go when operating. 6: Conclusion: Cleaning and servicing the wiper motors on your Series II or IIa is a simple, stress-free task that can save you a lot of headaches and money down the road. These small motors are well-built, and with a modicum of service will soldier on reliably in the rain effectively forever. Al Richer From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 14 95 Jul EDT 1912 Date: 14 Jul 95 12:32:45 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Re: Wiper motor article: I apologize, folks. I slipped and sent the revised copy of it to the list instead of direcly to Dixon. Again, my sincere apologies. Al R. From ROB@HARV-EHS.mhs.harvard.edu Fri Jul 14 13:33:45 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 13:33:45 -0500 (EST) From: ROB@HARV-EHS.mhs.harvard.edu Subject: AC for IIa Willing to trade '84FJ60 Toyota Landcruiser with air conditioning for series IIa AND a pile of cash to keep the IIa going....Taylor.....Nah Just kidding, I'll keep my TLC a little while longer and my names not Taylor its Rob...I thought LRO's drank Pimms?? Friday? YES! From Dixon Kenner Fri Jul 14 13:54:12 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 13:54:12 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Wiper motor article: On 14 Jul 1995, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote: > I apologize, folks. I slipped and sent the revised copy of it to the > list instead of direcly to Dixon. > Again, my sincere apologies. Al R. I am sure they don't mind... :-) Besides, they get to see the type of stuff that appears in OVLR's monthly newletter... Rgds, Dixon PS. I chopped the windscreen up to rescue the motor because I have more windscreens than I know what to do with. As far as I am concerned, they are disposable. The motors on the other hand are a bit harder to get a hold of... Windscreens don't break, these things do... The last bent windscreen I had I fixed with a sledge and a concrete pad. Looks fine now... From LRDEFNDR3@aol.com Fri Jul 14 14:16:23 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 14:16:23 -0400 From: LRDEFNDR3@aol.com Subject: re: loose exhaust bolts Peter C. Parsons writes, > My just-delivered Disco has foldover metal tabs (Part >of the gasket?) to keep the subject nuts from vibrating >loose or off. Apparently, someone took this problem >for action when it came up a while back, and the factory >now turns out Discos with the engineering change >incorporated. A case of the system working!!! I'm done lurking, gotta butt in. I have a 94 NA D90. My 3.9 also has the tabs designed to hold the exhaust manifold bolts inplace...shame that they don't work. I was plowing through the swamps of North Carolina with about 12k miles on the odometer when I a heard "Blap blap blap" reminiscent of my old Ser IIa which has an exhaust leak, and oil leak and transmission leak...etc. Well, I stopped to investigate the offending sound and discovered that one, no.. two exhaust manifold bolts were missing and three others were loose and nearly gone. The "blaping" sound was from one of the indvidual exhaust port gaskets pivoting down on the remaining bottom bolt and blocking the exhaust. "Gee, that shouldn't have happened", said the service manager. And I was worried that the endearing quirks of my Ser IIa would be absent in my brandy new Defender. Glad to see that I'll have some things to keep me interested. Oh yeah, that clanking sound discussed in the last few days.. got it, or is mine a clunk. Probably more of a clunk. I was writing it off to driver tecnique and a firm clutch compared to the IIa. At 32k miles I don't hear it any more. She's running like a top with just enough endearing quirks. Happy Rovering, Thom Thom Bruce LRDEFNDR3@aol.com From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Fri Jul 14 19:22:04 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 19:22:04 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: Re: AC for IIa At 1:33pm 14/7/95, ROB@HARV-EHS.mhs.harvard.edu wrote: >Taylor its Rob...I thought LRO's drank Pimms?? Friday? YES! Only when they live in Cambridge... cw C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From Dixon Kenner Fri Jul 14 14:56:33 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 14:56:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Beaches making us soft!!! On Fri, 14 Jul 1995, Daryl Webb brings up a subject close to heart: > > > Guinness, Bah, *Real* land-rover owners drink Coopers Ale or Extra Stout.. > > Send a case... :-) Container might be more accurate though... [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > thicker creamier Guinness. Yum on cold nights (see below) Hey why dont you > come over for Blinman 1997?? So, like who makes this Coopers stuff? A quick trip to the provincial liquor monopoly could get a case imported (albeit over a four+ month period...) What is a Blinman '97? > Ok I would have agreed with this when I lived in Darwin but now I'm here in > "temperate" Adelaide its always too cold to go to the beach.... > (Ok so I'm a cold weather woose, take me back to the tropics NOW) > (this should bring a few SA lurkers out in the open :-) Too cold to go to the beach? I didn't think anything ever got below a normal beer temperature there. You need to visit Maine or New Hampshire for a dip in the North Altantic... :-) Eye opening, then again so are the Great Lakes about now still... > "special compliance" plate (ie personal import of non OZ available car eg > TR8's). I wonder what Leslie knows (you still with us ??) Probably duties > and taxes would kill the appeal.... Leslie knows the USA... TR-8's eh... nice cars... Nearly had one before. Might stil get one eventually... Ahhh, Guinness time in two hours! (hi Ben!) From DANCSC@aol.com Fri Jul 14 15:24:41 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 15:24:41 -0400 From: DANCSC@aol.com Subject: was it Tom Rowe asking about camel trophy? In a message dated 95-07-14 04:37:13 EDT, you write: >Does anyone know when ESPN will broadcast this? >Or when and where is the actual thing being held? um.. it already happened, they were dealing with mayan temples and such this year.. lots of injuries, people getting airlifted out, and the works, I saw the date for an ESPN showing, but I forgot it,sadly I lost all the pages I had printed out, for a while there was a fellow giving the daily play by play on the net here... Really exciting this year. Dan of Rosa From Bill Yerazunis Fri Jul 14 16:27:59 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 16:27:59 -0400 From: Bill Yerazunis Subject: Re: Disco Exhaust Bolts Heck, My bolts did the same thing! Driver's side. Two missing, one loose. Replaced 'em with stainless steel. No problems since on that- BUT now the exhaust heat shield keeps rattling whenever the engine is warmed up and at idle. All the bolts are tight. Anybody got a solution? -Bill Y. (& Sally Xray- '94 Disco) From tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg) Fri Jul 14 18:01:44 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 18:01:44 EDT From: tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg) Subject: Range Rover rusty tailgate repair At one point we all face this problem. A rusted tail gate. :^( Mine just started to rust in several places. Is it possible to take it apart, acid dip it and refinish. Or perhaps some other way of treating the rust? Thanks TonyB From Biosource <0003479098@mcimail.com> Fri Jul 14 18:28 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 18:28 EST From: Biosource <0003479098@mcimail.com> Subject: RR console heat problem. Thanks to everyone for the advice on the missing problem in a 90 Range Rover. Problem #2 is heat coming through the center console into the passenger compartment. It is especially irritating on very hot days. Is this normal for a Range Rover, or was someone mucking around underneath with the heat shielding? Also, is there a market for used three-spoke factory alloy wheels off my 90? I put on a set of 95 five-spoke cyclones and will part with the old wheels for any reasonable offer (or will trade for factory running boards). Regards, Guy della-Cioppa Vacaville, California 90 Range Rover (Beluga Black, of course) 707-446-8461 Biosource@mcimail.com Guy_dell@aol.com From Paul Sturm Fri Jul 14 13:51:46 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 13:51:46 -1000 From: Paul Sturm Subject: Help Me Unsubscribe -- [ From: Paul Sturm * EMC.Ver #2.05 ] -- I'm a happy Rover owner on the Big Island of Hawaii--but an unhappy Digest recipient. I don't have time to read all this material, and receiving it here in the middle of the Pacific is costing me plenty. I've sent several "unsubscribe" messages as indicated. I always get an acknowledgment, but the Digest keeps coming. Could someone please help me turn things off? Also, I believe that's a abbreviated or less frequent version. I do I get that instead? Regards. From terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Sat Jul 15 02:38:20 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 02:38:20 +0200 From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Subject: NLRK 20th anniversary rally The Norwegian Landr-Rover Club will hold its 20th anniversary rally in Hunderfossen, just north of Lillehammer, Norway, the site of the 1994 Winter Olympics. The dates are August 8-13. Further information may be found on my web pages at http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/nlrk/index.e.html in English, or http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/nlrk/index.html in Norwegian. Most of the information is typed in from the club newsletter 4WD. Although I am not assiciated with the rally organizers, feel free to contact me with any questions you may have. The pages are still under construction, I'm going to include a road description for the Bergen-Lillehammer route for those who arrive by ferry from England. Other road descriptions may be available upon request. Have fun, TK terje@tvnorge.no http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html 1972 88" SIII (Currently in bits and pieces, hopefully a working Landie by August...) From ecoethic@rcinet.com Fri Jul 14 22:37:30 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 22:37:30 -0400 From: ecoethic@rcinet.com Subject: Valve guide seal replacement For John Putnam & David John Place: I recently changed the valve guide seals on my Ser. III petrol using two screwdrivers, an old brake adjusting tool, and a magnetic probe to retrieve small pieces. I took the rocker assembly off, removed the rockers and springs, and reattached the shaft to use as a fulcrum point. I covered the shaft with masking tape to protect the surface. I was able to replace all of the seals and reassemble everything in only eleven hours! I only lost one part in all that time, I suffered no injuries, but I am afraid I was unkind to all who entered my garage during this time. You have to be a masochist or a very cheap person to go through this process, but I did eliminate the smoking that always occurred on start-up (210,000 miles) and the seals only cost $2-2.50 a piece. I will need a full valve job someday, but for right now my compression readings are between 155-165 lbs. The old seals had up to a sixteenth of an inch gap and were of no use. I suspect that many of us could benefit from seal replacement in place of a valve job. The use of TRW Teflon seals sounds like a good solution to a quality setup when the time comes. I really doubt that these umbrella type rubber seals last much more than 50,000 to 60,000 miles. If any one wants to attempt what I did, good luck, and keep a tarp over the engine area to catch the springs when they fly (not if). I did not, and I am still missing a spring keeper that bounced off the ceiling, the workbench, to parts unknown. What is needed, in reflection, is an L-shaped tool that will depress the springs in a proper manner. Has anyone out there ever devised or heard of such a tool? It sure would save much wasted time. Walter Pokines Tipp City, Ohio 60 II, 67 IIA, 72 III, 72 III From David John Place Fri Jul 14 23:15:50 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 1995 23:15:50 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Valve guide seal replacement Well there a number of great vavle depressers to do the job. The best looks like a pair of pliers and the way it works is that two arms go under the bottom of the springs while a plate pushes down on top of the springs. There is a hole in the plate to take the two keepers out. Another variety uses something like a "C" clamp to accomplish the same thing. I have often used my drill press with a semi-circular disk so I can fetch the keepers out. Of course this requires the head off. Finally, there is the kind of "L" shaped thing you discribed used mostly for small block Chevs to depress the springs. I found that a flat bar nail puller did just as good a job if I make the nail pulling "V" a bit bigger so I could get the keepers out. By the way for the fellows who wanted to grind their own valves, You can use an electric drill but you need the kind with reverse on it. You have to reverse the direction or you will get a poor lap job. I have a Snap-On tool like an egg beater type drill which automatically reverses every 1/4 turn as you grind and it does a good job. Better still take the thing to an auto machine shop and make sure you ask for a three angle valve job. You can't beat what a machine that does three angles does over the run of the mill old single angle machines which just rotated the valve against a grinding stone. Dave VE4PN From Russell Burns Fri Jul 14 21:46:39 1995 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 95 21:46:39 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: RR console heat problem. I found that my console got hotter when I removed the front air dam. I constructed a temporary one last year when I towed a trailer to the Rover rally in Colorado. It ran cooler as it funneled more air over the trans. I may build another for this years trip, but make it removable for offroad. It scooped up a lot of mud. Russ Burns 91 R-ROver 94 D-90 Both headed west for the rally. > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)] > Biosource@mcimail.com > Guy_dell@aol.com From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat Jul 15 01:59:35 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 01:59:35 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer.... Spenny (et al.) speak the *unspeakable* > Alan writes.... > Speaking as a homebrewer, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > Land Rover Stout... > Looks like 90wt., tastes like heaven. Holy Crow! We all caught hell from mum last year for bringing up the subject of beer on a Land Rover mailing list.. (blast shield up!) Cheers Mike From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat Jul 15 01:59:45 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 01:59:45 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Gene Jockey > But don't thank me, it's only my job... ;-) Hey Charlie... How do you tell the sex of a chromosome?? Take down it's jeans... Heard it already, eh? Cheers Mike From Dixon Kenner Sat Jul 15 11:52:50 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 11:52:50 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Proper Land-Rover beer.... I have received a number of requests for a FAQ section on the suggested and recommended beers and whiskies for Land Rover owners. While I am not sure about how we address recommended volumes (lots) and intervals (often), we should probably start by addressing what to add to Guinness and Islay for the true Land Rover connisseur. At the very least a description of a good stout "must look like 90wt", to a good ale "must look like 10w30 as you see it for the last time before going down the filler tube" (of course, Land Rovers emulating their owners promptly piss it all over the place, though unlike their owner are not very well house trained) Send suggestions to me. I'll collate & post. Example: Drink Type Description Guinness stout - 20w50 after 30 seconds in Dale's diesel - 90wt Isle of Islay single malt - heaven Of course we shall include useful hints to consumption during periods of vapour lock like the use of the lower lip on the Series metalled dash being perfect for opening beer bottles, or the front grille of a pre-85 Range Rover (though you periodically have to dissassemble the grille to remove the caps) Other useful spots? We can keep suggestions anonymous unless of course you suggest something like Coors Light which will get promptly posted to this list for some well deserved ridicule. Rgds, From Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com> 15 95 Jul EDT 1913 Date: 15 Jul 95 13:43:42 EDT From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com> Subject: Torsen diffs Seems a lot of folks have been writing asking about Torsen Diffs lately. let me tell you whtat I know. i spoke with the UK rep for Zexel-Gleason ( the manufacturer) and he told me the Co. had been bought by the Japenese. The new owners were not yet keen on the aftermarket scene, but as they just suffered a defeat when LR decided not to make these diffs an option they might warm up to the idea.As soon as I here form the rep on their decision I'll write with the info. A better possibility may a diff known as the Truetrac. this unit is similar to the torsen in that it allows some slippage (important for normal pavement operations) and uses some very complex gearing rather than clutches or cones. the advantage over the ARB airlockers is less complexity (no pump or airlines) and considerably less expensive. If your interested in one of these as i am call, Truetrac 1-800-328-3850 Ask to speak to the engineering dept. i spoke to Jim in eng. and told him a lot of Rover owners would be interesed in this diff. He told me that if they had enough requests the would develop it for Rovers. Tell him you heard about it on the rover-net. mark ritter 94 disco From "P. Suryono Adisoemarta" Sat Jul 15 17:11:16 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 17:11:16 -0500 (CDT) From: "P. Suryono Adisoemarta" Subject: Re: Anybody ever A/C a Series IIa? This is how we (my father and I) put the A/C system on our S-III LWB Landys (1975 ex-mil and 1982 109', both with tropical roof, 5 doors, 10 seaters, 2.25L petrol, and both are in my parent's house in Indonesia). First configuration: - put the A/C blower on the footwell of the passenger side, it's easy to do but it made the passenger shivering while the driver and the middle seat passenger are Ok, but the people that sat on the back jumpseat were sweating like hell ;-) - the freon condenser was in front of the water radiation, it was obstructing the airflow and made the LR ran hot. so, we went to the second configuration: " blow the air from the backside thru roof mounted false ceiling (like the A/C in airplanes) with individual air flow control." things that I still remember for this project (we did this 8 years ago): - put a blank on the roof vents (that goes to the tropical roof) - put two A/C blowers, side by side, on the backside of the ceiling, - ran a fake ceiling up to the front with airflow control for each passenger. This fake ceiling was made out of thin sheet metal with grey thin carpet cover on the outside for a nice color, - put the freon condenser radiator (the thing that releases the heat of the freon as the freon is compressed) inside the well underneath the front passenger seat, with electric fan to blow the air to cool this radiator. (it made the LR ran cooler, as the airflow for the engine cooling is not obstructed anymore) - use Sanden SD-505 compressor (I forget on which side of the engine we put that) - replace the alternator with a 80 amps alternator, as the new contraption really eats juice (I've measured that the two blowers, the electric fan and the magnetic clutch on the compressor takes around 16 amps). - put an extra switch on the central console for turning off the magnetic clutch on the compressor manually. I always use this switch whenever I need to overtake a car in a short time (yes the A/C system really ate much of the engine power). One more note: make damn sure that you route the water drain from the A/C blower properly, as I had a nasty cold water shower when I brake hard from the water that creeps forward inside the fake ceiling due to a mistake in the plastic drain pipe routing (the pipe made a 1/2 inch upward when we put the blower cover back on, so it never drains the water properly). hope that helps, Paulus N5SNN -- Paulus Suryono Adisoemarta Internet: yono@parokinet.org (Linux!) Petroleum Engineering Dept. paulus@nextover.pe.utexas.edu (NeXT!) U of Texas, Austin n5snn@mail.utexas.edu (?!) From iharper@afm.org Sat Jul 15 18:18:42 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 95 18:18:42 EST From: iharper@afm.org Subject: Zenith Carbs I'm having problems adjusting the new Zenith on my '74 SIII. The only way that I can get it to run smoothly is to leave the choke on just a bit. This would indicate that I need a richer mixture, but the Volume control screw has absolutely no effect whatsoever (unless I remove it completely!!) I've stripped the carb down and made sure all of the passageways were clear, and even smoothed the faces with emery cloth. Is it possible that either 1) the position of the distributor is so far off as to affect the mixture? (I've tried adjusting the carb at all the timing positions...no luck) or 2) the vaccuum advance on the dist. is way out of whack? The only other explanation is that it is a bad casting, but as I got it from England, it would cost me more to return it than get another one. P.S. Is the Vacuum line supposed to be attached or blocked when the timing is set? This obviously affects the Vacuum advance, so where should that be set and how do you know how far advanced or retarded it is? --- This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated. From JFisk1120@aol.com Sat Jul 15 18:57:38 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 18:57:38 -0400 From: JFisk1120@aol.com Subject: Re: A/C for Series Land Rovers Greetings to all of you in Roverland, I too suffer the heat of a closed compartment Land Rover. We have a '64, 88"( LION-B8), which we run topless from March thru October. If you can take the sun you are okay, because the airflow seems to compensate for the sun. On the other side of the garage we have a '72, 88" which remains covered year round. This is our rain and unknown conditions Rover. This rascal heats up like nobodys business and I was beginning to think of some sort of drastic action. Air conditioning of some sort seemed the solution, so we girded up our loins, as it were, and went about the installation of a Baaden & Brown two speed, electric fan. This is not a perfect solution, however, it is an improvement. Even though the air temp is not changed, there is some relief in the fact that it is taken from a state of rest and transformed into a moving mass which seems to give aid relief to the human body. By the way, this thing is sort of big and ugly with its wire cage, but what's a Rover driver gonna do? I hope your driving pursuits are pleasurable. My family will set off for Hootentown, Missouri at 7:00 AM in the morning. This abandoned mill town on the James River promises to be a great destination for a Roverbrunch. We will travel in two 88's with our Roverchum Todd Houge and friends traveling in a third 88". If you don't drive your Rover regularly....it will drive *you* crazy!! J. Howard Fisk Springfield, Missouri From "Francis J. Twarog" Sat Jul 15 19:16:52 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 1995 19:16:52 -0400 (EDT) From: "Francis J. Twarog" Subject: re: AC for IIA I remember seeing pictures in Ken Slavin's "Land Rover..." of Range Rovers and Defenders with roof mounted AC units. I have no idea where to find one, but just the other day, saw a brand new Ford parcel van with one on it's roof - I assume any truck accessories store could direct you. BTW, don't you suppose that an AC on an old 2.25 litre engine might draw a bit too much power to, say, budge ?! Frank Twarog Boston, MA From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 15 95 Jul EDT 1919 Date: 15 Jul 95 19:32:30 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: 2 nd Gear Andy, .... jumping out of second gear has several potential causes, there being more likelihood of a ser 3 doing it than ser2. The simplest reason is a weak detent spring on the selector shaft, the most likely is that the teeth on the side of the gear over which the first gear slides to lock the gear to the mainshaft are worn., this is common on series 3, the teeth having been thinned down to accomodate the synchro cones,look to the stop at the rear of the selector shaft ( inside a small steel plate at the very top of the gearbox ) to ensure that full engagaenment of the detent is permitted . The other significant reason is wear on the bearing bush, these bushes often break up and permit the gear to move on the shaft, thus exacerbating the wear and allowing the gears to slide out of engagement, it is more common for third to start to jump out before 2 nd. due to bush wear. Regards Bill Leacock limey in exile. From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Sat Jul 15 18:14:36 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 95 18:14:36 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: Land Rover Beer Here in the Boston area we have recently received a gift in the form of the local availability of BODDINGTONS BEST BITTER direct in the UK pressurized cans! For those of you who crave bitter - you *MUST* try this stuff. Even the foam is liquid! Smoothest brew I've ever had. You'll love it. cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! From cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson) Wed May 17 03:23:19 1995 Date: Wed, 17 May 1995 03:23:19 -0700 From: cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson) Subject: Land Rovers on Propane? Does anyone know of any LRs converted to propane? I am thinking about this as I rebuild my truck. Where would you store the tank(s). 73 Chris Youngson, VE7CST West Vancouver British Columbia Canada From cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson) Wed May 17 03:23:49 1995 Date: Wed, 17 May 1995 03:23:49 -0700 From: cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson) Subject: Syncronising clutch dissassembly I am rebuilding my transmission and need some help. I need to know how to hold back the three spring detent clips in the synchro. clutch. This way I can withdraw the two funny gear things that hold the clutch to the mainshaft. I've tried wrapping wire around them and tying them back to one of the through pins, but the force is to strong. Thanx Chris Youngson VE7CST West Vancouver British Columbia Canada From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Thu Jul 13 20:32:54 1995 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 20:32:54 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: Heated Windscreens Because of difficulties in clearing condensation from my screen during the autumn/winter I am considering fitting heated front screens to my SIIA. Does anybody have experience of these? Do they work? Do the fine wires embedded in the screen affect vision badly? I would be grateful for any comments. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman 1968 SWB hardtop IIA petrol ------------------------------------- From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Sat Jul 15 07:39:17 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 95 07:39:17 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: RE: Zenith Carbs Try checking the O ring that seals the top to the carburettor main body. This sometimes fails. Whilst you're at it check both the condition and adjustment of the float and needle valve. If this is wrong you will have great difficulty setting the mixture. One thing that caught me out was that the volume control screw controls airflow rather than petrol. In order to weaken the mixture at should be unscrewed. The Land Rover workshop manual gives static timing settings only. If you are using these there is no need to disconnect the vacuum pipe. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Sat Jul 15 07:49:17 1995 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 95 07:49:17 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: Heated Windscreens Firstly appologies. I tried posting this a couple of days ago but as it hasn't appeared I assume that its gone astray, probably direct to another person on this mailing group. Because of difficulty in de-misting the screen in Autumn/Winter I am considering fitting one or two heated screens to my IIA. These are available as an accessory from Land Rover. Does anyone have experience of these? Are they any good? Do the wires embedded in the screen interfere with vision? I would be grateful for any views. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk HAWTEC Tel: 01905 723200 Haswell House Fax: 01905 613338 St. Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW This message was sent by Chameleon ------------------------------------- From Lloyd Allison Sun Jul 16 22:18:03 1995 Date: Sun, 16 Jul 1995 22:18:03 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: Camel trophy I kept the reports in - http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/LRO/ Lloyd From JDolan2109@aol.com Sun Jul 16 09:15:28 1995 Date: Sun, 16 Jul 1995 09:15:28 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Econo-Tip #14 Thought I'd pass along this exercise in frugality: The next time you need a small piece of wire for, say, a harness tie or such, try using the bail (handle) from a Chinese food container. I have found that metal non-corrosive, easily bendable, and not too brittle (such as stainless). I always keep a few pieces about. Lately I've been into a bit of Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout. Seems to work well. If anyone knows of a heavy stout with lumps, would they please advise? Regarding Tom Rowe's suggestion of bar and chain oil for use as an undercoating, and then the question of how to spray it: Some people I know (Washington County Electrical Co-op) 'cut' the oil with a bit of diesel fuel prior to spraying. Not much diesel needs to be added. Just adjust to accomodate the orifice of your sprayer. The diesel will dissipate/evaporate and leave the clingy oil behind, having penetrated more than being applied as oil alone. They now use this technique and have abandoned a Texaco grease spray system (less cost and better results). I'm planning an adventure from Vermont to Colorado at the end of July, as I have a 25 yr reunion in Boulder the first weekend of August. Is there a chance anyone else might be going? I'm thinking of going via Interstate 50 or such. Anyone en-route? Anyone in Boulder with a Series vehicle? I'll be staying at my old house in Left Hand Canyon, just off of Lick Skillet Road, below Gold Hill. I guess next week I'll actually get out a map, or maybe I'll just wait and go down the drive and turn right... See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! From jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess) Sat Jul 16 08:59:28 1994 Date: Sat, 16 Jul 1994 08:59:28 -0700 From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess) Subject: heated windscreens Re: heated windscreens, Eric Cope has a beautiful NADA 109 sw with the heated windscreens. The wires for the heating are very fine and practically impossible to see. Not at all like the wires commonly seen in new cars for rear defrosting. Eric lives in the foothills of the sierra nevada mountains and found his fan/defroster arrangement unsatisfactory; he says that electric system is the way to go. BTW, I gave eric a ride in the hessmobile (68 dormobile) with OD to give eric a sense of OD whine. he was very impressed, saying his transmission sounds like my trans/od. he has since ordered an OD. So, if some LROs have a very whiny OD, I can't help. My experience with the two rovers is davis is not much whine. cheers john f hess phd (wow, really?) jfhess@ucdavis.edu from home via modem Land- -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner! From Kelly Minnick Sun Jul 16 12:42:33 1995 Date: Sun, 16 Jul 95 12:42:33 PDT From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Misc. RE:Misc With the '88RR stalling problem: Did you chek the throttle position sensor? Actually, I forgot to ask if this was a EFI unit! RR brush guards. I have the factory (hmm! at $1600 list - PO) Brush guards & rear lamps guards on my '91 RR. These are plasti-coated which I think is junk. Soon, the plastic seperates from the metal and rust forms between the plastic and the metal. I would recommend stainless or powder coated metal. My plan is to take all this factory stuff in and have it stripped and powder coated (when money permits). valve stem seals. Yes, use them! I agree that most valve jobs could be put off if one replaces the valve stem seals every 50K miles. While I was at it, I would replace the valve springs, too! Question for RR owners: I have a '91 RR. The service engine light has just come on recently and stayed on. I service the vehicle all the time. What causes this light to come on? Also, in the brake department, All the rotors are .040" undersize with 51Kmiles on the vehicle. Is this normal? That's a lot of metal removal! Do these vehicle eat rotors? Thanks Kelly Minnck '73 88" Safari & '91 RR Ridgecrest, CA From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Sun Jul 16 13:37:24 1995 Date: Sun, 16 Jul 1995 13:37:24 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: "Service" mileage meter Kelly Minnick writes: >Question for RR owners: I have a '91 RR. The service engine light has just >come on recently and stayed on. I service the vehicle all the time. What >causes this light to come on? Cause is probably the same thing as in every other recent vintage car. The speedo cable (or electrics ?) goes to a box prior to continuing to the speedo/mileage display. the box keeps track of the mileage between service and triggers the light. The service technician will insert a pointy device into an opening in the box which is the trip/mileage meter switch and resets it. So... find the box and stick it! Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From "Walter C. Swain" Sun Jul 16 14:33:29 1995 Date: Sun, 16 Jul 1995 14:33:29 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" Subject: Re: Misc. >>>>> Kelly Minnick writes: > RE:Misc snip > Question for RR owners: I have a '91 RR. The service engine light has just > come on recently and stayed on. I service the vehicle all the time. What > causes this light to come on? In most 'modern" vehicles with the irritating service light, it comes on as a function of miles/km driven. It can be reset if you know the "for dealers eyes only" location of the reset button. Can anybody help us out with the location on the '91 RR? Walter Swain 1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol Davis, CA From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Sun Jul 16 16:15:25 1995 Date: Sun, 16 Jul 95 16:15:25 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: Heated windscreens Heated screens were standard fitment to NADA 6-cyl 109" station wagons. They had horizontal grid wires and each half pane was on a separate switch. The right side pane on mine never worked even though continuity checks were positive. The driver's side worked quite well for years until it too recently failed. The technology improved quite a bit for the Range Rovers in the late 80s. The grids are now vertical and even clear iced up screens. The heated glass was also standard on the NAS Def 110 and works very well also. I might assume that this glass will be available on the upcoming NAS Def 90 Station Wagon. Obviously, the glass is available as a spare part for existing Defender 90s. As for Series cars, I recall that Bearmach had heated panels listed some time ago. Perhaps a call into RN would determine availability. I never had a problem with visibility as long as you are looking out at the road - which is where you should be looking! If you focus on the screen, you will get cross-eyed looking at the wires! Cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! From Charlie Wright Mon Jul 17 00:45:11 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 00:45:11 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Brain failure/no manuals O.K. I bit off more than I could chew. I set about my front half-shaft swap today. I'm putting the heavier half-shafts, uprated hubs/brakes, and C/V joints from this Stage I into my '66 109. The original plan was to swap the swivel pins outward. I ended up needing to renew a swivel-ball and replace some bits and pieces, but the real confusion is at the swivel housing/axle case joint. The IIa had a ROLLER BEARING pressed into the _swivel housing_ at this joint and an OIL SEAL into the _axle case_. Simple. Now I only have the half-shafts and housings from the Stage I (left the axle housing), but it has an OIL SEAL pressed into the _swivel housing_. Series IIa: - - ,-. ,, | | | / \=| '-- | - | ============{O}=== <-Axle ,-- | - | '' | | | \ /=| - - '-' ^ ^ ^ ^ | | | Housing | | Roller Bearing | Oil Seal Axle Case Stage I: - - ,-. ,, | | | / \=| '-- | - | ============C/V=== <-Axle ,-- | - | '' | | | \ /=| - - '-' ^ ^ ^ ^ | | | Housing | | Oil Seal | ???? Axle Case I assumed, from the design of the IIa with Hardy-Spicer joints, that there must be another bearing on the CV-joint assembly. My assumption was that it must have been on the axle case side (which I didn't have to check). I rationalised the change in design to the possible failure of the CV joint to splash enough oil onto the bearing, so they must have moved it to the axle side.... O.K., poor justification, but it made some sense. HOWEVER. I asked around and most people knew nothing, but one said that there was not a bearing there at all. In disbelief, I looked at the only Haynes manual I had covering CV joints (Rover Metro), and there was no 'equivalent' bearing on these either. The big QUESTION: Does the CV joint survive with no bearing between the _diff spline_ and the _joint_ itself? I can believe this because it will be much smoother (being constant-velocity...) This would leave all bearing to the phospho-bronze plain bearing and the wheel bearings on the stub axle side of things. Yes? No? Help. =========== Big question number two. Brakes. Will the two wheel cylinders from my 109 (standard LWB drums) bolt straight in place of the cylinders on the Stage I backplates (driving the bigger Stage I shoes)? They look a little different, but on inspection it looks to be only the casing design... I hope. Only reasons I ask: A) too lazy to do all the unbolting to try it. B) The Stage I cylinders are frozen. C) The 109 cylinders are about 6 months old. What a waste. All help appreciated. Cheers, Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From "Francis J. Twarog" Sun Jul 16 21:46:13 1995 Date: Sun, 16 Jul 1995 21:46:13 -0400 (EDT) From: "Francis J. Twarog" Subject: LR Beer As I'm a bit partial to Vermont's fine microbrews, I'll add Catamount Bock and Otter Creek Stovepipe Porter to the list... the first being one of the smoothest and tastiest brews I've run into and the second will easily pass the 90 wt. viscocity test. BTW, for anyone who enjoys homebrewing but doesn't want to deal w/ clean-up etc., the new fad seems to be "U-brews". As the name implies, you From Mr Ian Stuart Mon Jul 17 09:27:00 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 09:27:00 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Re: A test to see which address chops the bottom off On 14 Jul 95, Charlie Wright wrote: > >Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. > They were both like this They should have been: ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or Therefor, I assume that it's majordomo that's killing the bottom two lines, not the recipient address (which could actually be the same machine :-). PS I've added a couple of line-feeds to the end of my .sig - so we'll see what this ones like.... ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From Andrew Grafton Mon Jul 17 12:01:03 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 12:01:03 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: A little learning experience... Was pottering down to High Wycombe this weekend when the SIII 109" started producing a horrible screetching noise from the gearbox. The noise was speed-related, with the frequency of screetching varying directly with speed, and independent of which gear was selected. Stopped, checked oil levels (fine) and continued journey. Screetch, screeeeeeetch, squeak, squak, screetch. Turned up stereo, reduced speed, drove another 65 miles to destination. Before I left to come home I had a good look about to see what the problem was... Imagine how pleased I was when it turned out that the rear propshaft bolts (front and rear) were either missing or finger-tight. Phew! I thought the gearbox had gone. Now I've replaced them and a two more problems have been solved; the beast no longer pops out of second, no matter how hard I try, and the clutch has stopped juddering. Not much else to say, except that the off-road show in West Wycombe was really not very good, and that I am too knackered to try and make this interesting! Re: the beer discussion... Perhaps the beer/oil relationship chart could work both ways - for those who have more experience of beer than oil it would be an excellent way of telling which oil they have been sold. All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk P.S. Mike I have your oil but it needs decanting - I'll try and decant it tonight (unless you *want* 25L of EP90!) From Peter Kutschera Mon Jul 17 15:26:14 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 15:26:14 +0200 From: Peter Kutschera Subject: Re: Koenig Winch Dixon Kenner wrote: :) > If anyone has a picture/drawings of the winch, please E-mail me direct :) > with details-I'll galdly pay postage and developing/photocopying fees as I :) > currently have no info on this piece of equipment. :) I just moved this last week. The operating & parts manuals :) for both the crank & pto versions are buried in a mountain of Hello! If you find the papers: I have a Koenig 44500 connected to the gearbox where an overdrive should be. I don't have any papers/descriptions. If you would be so nice to send me a copy maybe i can connect the winch to the crank and use an overdrive. Let me know if you can find out how much sending of the papers would cost so i can send you some $ for mail and copying. Thanks, Peter Signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter -------- From Russell Burns Mon Jul 17 7:01:14 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 7:01:14 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: Misc. There is a reset button under the drivers seat? (I will have to confirm) anyway under one of the seats is a relay box with a landrover sticker covering a hole. I used a paper clip to reset the light. I have noticed that my rotors are quite worn @ 60K miles. I have also noted that brake pads and rotors are about the same price. Russ BUrns D-90 91 R-Rover > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)] > lot of metal removal! Do these vehicle eat rotors? > Thanks > Kelly Minnck '73 88" Safari & '91 RR From Russell Burns Mon Jul 17 7:09:45 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 7:09:45 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: 1995 US National Rally (fwd) Here are the details, thanks to Tom Mills, who I assume will be attending in full middle east attire again... Russ Forwarded message: >From lro-owner@uk.stratus.com Fri Mar 10 23:54 PST 1995 From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Mon Jul 17 07:14:18 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 07:14:18 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: 88' Range Rovers All, Read the thread regarding early Range Rovers. I have an 88 and have to add the following : Parts, they can be expensive, get them from the UK. Engines, As long as the oil is chnged on a reqular basis, things work fine. It's vital to keep the oil as clean as possible becuase of the hydraulic tappets. Most engines can go to at least 150,000 miles before any major work is required. I have had a 88 RR for 2 years ang have over 60,000 on it. Besides some niggling problems, the thing has been basically reliable. Build quality, This leaves a lot to be desired, and if I had paid the original asking price, over $35,000 then I would have been unhappy. I'm looking to get another RR, and this time I'm looking for a 91-92 model. Mark From rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Mon Jul 17 10:21:03 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 10:21:03 -0400 From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Subject: Lucas strikes in a Discovery! Take heart, all you series owners out there, Lucas is alive and lurking in newer Solihull products, if this weekend is any clue. Now granted, this reports a very minor occurence, hardly one to stop the beast, but perhaps it foreshadows electrical joys to come (in 20 -30 years). It was hot this weekend, temperatures peaking close to 100F. I found that when I left my disco out in this heat, the left blinker started behaving rather oddly 'till it had a chance to cool down. Normally, when one indicates a turn (and, yes, we do ocassionally do so in Massachusetts :-) the cheery little trailer icon comes on, followed by the reassuring "ka-thunk Blump. Ka-thunk Blump." This satisfying little sequence played out for all my right turns, but not for left turns. Seems as though the heat had fried old Joe's brain, making him all skittery. No happy little trailer icon at all. And a very staccato "BlipBlupBlipBlup" replaced the reassuring "ka-thunk Blump. Ka-thunk Blump." There is a question here. While this malady was more of an endearing quirk than a serious problem, other electrical bugaboos aren't. Any speculation as to what part of the Lucas-supplied components were at fault? I like to check the wiring, at least, looking for loose connections but I don't really have a clue where to start. Bob Virzi rvirzi@gte.com Think Globally. === +1(617)466-2881 === Act Locally! From steve gross Mon Jul 17 07:23:45 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 07:23:45 PDT From: steve gross Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Kelly: The service engine light indicates a problem with the ecu. On later model vehicles, there is a small plastic box with a led indicator inside it (it is hard to see the led in bright light) that will indicate the fault code i.e.- 48 is for base idle. This box is located next to the ecu in the D90. To clear the fault code and reset the light, disconnect the main connector from the ecu and reconnect it (with the ignition off). There will be another code displayed when you turn the ignition back on for the first time indicating a reset has occurred- error code 02 I think... after that, no error code. You will need a service manual to tell you what each error code means. Correct the problem and the service engine light will stay off. Some of the possible problems are: O2 sensors, road speed transducer, throttle position indicator, stepper motor, airflow sensor, base idle adjustment, mixture adjustment, etc. -steve Stephen C. Gross Pilot B737 America West Airlines From steve gross Mon Jul 17 07:31:15 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 07:31:15 PDT From: steve gross Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Kelly- Regarding the service engine light- I was wrong- I thought you meant the check engine light. To reset the check engine light, locate a small plastic box behind the speedometer. This box has a Land Rover sticker on it. Remove the sticker and you will find a small hole in the box. Insert a small screwdiver in the hole and push the reset button. -steve Stephen C. Gross Pilot B737 America West Airlines From Russell Burns Mon Jul 17 8:24:11 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 8:24:11 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: 1995 US National Rally (fwd) Sorry Todd... It has been a tough morning.. > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 58 lines)] > T. F. Mills tomills@du.edu > University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA > http://mercury.cair.du.edu/~tomills (under construction) From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Mon Jul 17 09:59:59 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 09:59:59 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Valve guide seal replacement > What is needed, in reflection, is an L-shaped tool > that will depress the springs in a proper manner. Has anyone out there ever [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > devised or heard of such a tool? It sure would save much wasted time. > Walter Pokines K-D tools (among others) makes a spring compressor that works from one side. It has two hooks that reach around either side of the spring and grab the next to last coil. You the compress the spring by screwing a little hand wheel. No sweat. Cheap. Works. Get one. R, bg From matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Mon Jul 17 10:27:47 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 10:27:47 -0700 From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: RR service engine light I believe the exact meaning of the service engine light varies from year to year, but by using the shop manual, I was able to trace to wiring of the light in my '88 RR, and I determined that it indicates only that the emissions system is due for it's periodic inspection. -Matt San Diego From matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Mon Jul 17 10:34:01 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 10:34:01 -0700 From: matts@caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: RR service engine light I might add that on mine the light is one of six modular-type lights in the center console, and it was an easy matter to pry it out and disconnect the ground lead, thereby alleviating the need to find the box for resetting. -Matt San Diego From Brian Neill Tiedemann Tue Jul 18 03:36:53 1995 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 03:36:53 +1000 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: Swivel Balls... Charlie, My RR has what sounds to be a very similar arrangement to the Stage 1. The axle runs from the diff end spline, through an oil seal pressed in to the inside (housing) side of the flange of the swivel ball (NOT blue!), then through a smallish bronze bushing which rides in the back of the cupped section of the ball between a machined face in the ball and a step up in diameter of the axle (prior to the finer splined outer end which rides in the CV). If memory serves me, the heavier (24 spline at both ends) axles which I have put into the front some time ago do not have any provision for such a bushing, and so are supported by only the CV. Perhaps if you have the Stage 1 inner axles, see if there is a step in them with a small bearing surface and a thrust surface, near to the finer splined outer end. I remember that when my original axles were in, the bushings always were left on the axles when apart- convenient I guess. Perhaps if you have not already noticed, Check that there are not in fact bushings sitting on yours- never know. If there is no apparent step then I would assume that it's OK to use the setup as is- CV will support it, and should not complain at doing so- loads should only be rotational anyhow. If you picture the setup in operation, the axle MUST remain centrally aligned as long as the wear in the CV ball bearings is not enough to allow excessive runout. BTW if step is there and no bush, RR (early) may be the same, and I can find a part # if you need it. Just finished setting up a complete "RR simulator" on the test bench. OZ 86-89 EFI computer Adjustable simulated inputs for: Throttle Position, Temp, Air Temp, Air Flow, Vac Switch, Thermo-time Switch. Signal generator driving electronic ignition module to provide spark input. Indicators and loads on all outputs- Injectors, Overrun cut, cold start etc. About to start testing and mapping functionality. Hope no smoke!! (first stage of developing the brain to drive my 5 litre's respiration system.... Info gained will be available soon for any interested) cheers BT. 77 RR(drooling) From rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Mon Jul 17 10:52:19 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 10:52:19 PDT From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson) Subject: Fixing D90 winch induced spring sag After installing an ARB bumber and Warn 9000lb winch, the front end of my D90 sagged about 3/4". I'm looking to correct this. Inquiries to Rovers North suggested D110 springs and Bilstiens. Everyone else ( West Coast British, ARB, British Pacific ) suggested the ARB Old Man Emu aftermarket springs and shocks or alternatively Old Man Emu springs with Bilstiens. All seemed to have varing opinions on how much lift (if any) over the stock D90 any of the discussed modifications would provide. The most common response was along the lines of: "We've done this to a clients D90 and they seem to have been pleased with the results." I've also read the "Four Wheeler" article on D90 suspension. (The article was really a article on installing the Old Man Emu springs and shocks with a couple general comments on D90 suspensions.) Interestingly enough, none of the places I called, knew, or agreed with the alternatives to the Emu kit mentioned in a side bar article in "Four Wheeler". These were: using the higher rated rear D90 coils in the front. using softer pre air-suspension rear Range Rover coils in the rear. I'm looking for general comments, experiences, and alternatives to either the D110 spring or Old Man Emu spring solution. I'd be real interested in opinions or experiences on the quality and engineering of the Old Man Emu springs and shocks. Thanks, -Rick Richard Larson LSI Logic Corporation (408) 433-7149 From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Mon Jul 17 11:22:45 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 11:22:45 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Disco exhaust bolts... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Disco exhaust bolts... My exhaust bolts came loose too. 1st time, I had dealer tighten, 2nd time I tightened them myself and noticed that 1 of the 3 bolts on each side was missing. Why don't they snug them any tighter, or use locktite??? #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From Easton Trevor Mon Jul 17 14:49:00 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 14:49:00 DST From: Easton Trevor Subject: Colorado Toronto Area Rover Club member Chris Procter is travelling to Colorado, specifically Durango, next week for the BMW annual convention. Thought he is travelling by 2x1 Paris Dakar Lightweight he would like to know of any Land Rover owners or events in the area or en route. If you know of anything Chris may be interested in or would like to meet a fellow Land Rover (Series I and Lightweight) owner, let me know at "teaston@dqc2.dofasco.ca" Thanks in advance Trevor Easton and Miss Golightly From tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg) Mon Jul 17 14:41:40 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 14:41:40 EDT From: tonyb@ejv.com (Tony Bromberg) Subject: ATF change Well it was time for me to change ATF fluid in my 89 RR. Mechanicaly incleined but armed with only the owners manual I've proceeded anyway. First I went out to buy fluids, available only in qts. I had to convert from metrics and came up with 9.6 qts for transmission. So guess what, when filling it up the transmission dipstick overflowed at only 8qts. Under I went again and drained some of the good fluid out. * Now you tell me, what is the exact capacity of the trans. if one drains it from the pan only? * And should I bother to change filter screen and O rings insided the trans? * Also, spec says to use DexronII but III whas all I could find, is it safe to use? I did however get the transverse gear change right, around 2+ qts. Thanks, Tony B From rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Mon Jul 17 15:00:26 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 15:00:26 -0400 From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Subject: Photos from Downeast Roverheads- I had some snapshots from the Downeast rally earlier this month that are looking for a home. I just sent photogs to Bill and Ben, so let me know if you don't get them. I've got two photos of a green SIII, I believe, distinguished by a white top and a bonnet mounted spare. The license plate is something like, ZBY-5845, but it is tough to make out. These are of the truck coming up the hillclimb on the tougher course, the one with the tricky root. Send me an address to claim the photos. And as long as I've got your collective ears, I'd like to give a hearty cheer for Miles who put on one hell of a show. And also the guys at East Coast Rover who helped a lot out on the course, and who helped me with some field repairs. Nice group that bunch! -Bob Virzi rvirzi@gte.com Think Globally. === +1(617)466-2881 === Act Locally! From Russell Burns Mon Jul 17 12:07:32 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 12:07:32 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: Disco exhaust bolts... This is a lucas position finder. When lost offroad, just follow nuts back home. Russ > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)] > | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. > "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Mon Jul 17 15:36:46 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 15:36:46 EDT From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Subject: Re:Land Rover Beer Gang, My vote for official Land Rover Beer: Old Peculiar. This Yorkshire-brewed delicacy has a nice heavy gravity (viscosity?), and the rich, dark color of old gearbox EP90. It has a sweeter taste than most of the nominations mentioned so far, but is not as sweet as say, McEwan's Scotch Ale (that stuff goes by a different name in the UK, but I can't remember it). Besides taste, an obvious strength is its name, which conjures up the true character of Series Land Rovers rather well, I think, as well as the nature of quite a few Series owners. Cheers, Scott Fugate 1970 IIA 88 1989 RR From 17 95 Jul EDT 1915 Date: 17 Jul 95 15:29:51 EDT From: Subject: Re: Heated Windscreens >Because of difficulties in clearing condensation from my screen during the >autumn/winter I am considering fitting heated front screens to my SIIA. >Does anybody have experience of these? Do they work? Do the fine wires >embedded in the screen affect vision badly? Some years ago I had to drive a company Ford, which had a heated front screen. I had no idea that they were now available on the aftermarket, and would be very interested to know where you can get them. The Ford screen was absolutely brilliant (can't say the same for the rest of the car!). Condensation cleared in seconds, ice took a little longer. The lines were visible if you looked at the screen, but driving was no problem as your focal point should be a little further ahead!....and you simply don't notice the wires. Simon Wilson-Taylor ___________________________ 1980 SIII Safari 1995 D110 CSW From "John B. Friedman" Mon Jul 17 14:30:08 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 14:30:08 -0500 From: "John B. Friedman" Subject: Bill Yerazunis( please read) my mail to this address is bouncing. Bill Yerazunis Well it was time for me to change ATF fluid in my 89 RR. Mechanicaly incleined but armed with only the owners manual I've proceeded anyway. First I went out to buy fluids, available only in qts. I had to convert from metrics and came up with 9.6 qts for transmission. So guess what, when filling it up the transmission dipstick overflowed at only 8qts. Under I went again and drained some of the good fluid out. . >* Now you tell me, what is the exact capacity of the trans. if one drains it from the pan only? You may have done it right the first time. Most automatic transmission fluid levels are measured with the oil hot (after a run), and with the engine still on. They usually measure high when you pour them in cold or the transmission is cold. Read your manual as to when to measure fluids. (You could have also measured the oil you initially drained out.) >* Also, spec says to use DexronII but III whas all I could find, is it safe to use? Yes, it's safe to use III in a II spec car. III exceeds the specifications of II and is a better product. Just don't use II in a III transmission. Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Mon Jul 17 12:52:34 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 12:52:34 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Re: Disco exhaust bolts... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Re: Disco exhaust bolts... AAAAAAHHHHHHH!!!!! It's all starting to make sense now!!! This explains MANY things!! Good ole "uncle Joe"! He thought of "everything"! Thanks for the illumination! >>From: Russell Burns >>This is a lucas position finder. When lost offroad, just follow >>nuts back home. >>Russ > My exhaust bolts came loose too. 1st time, I had dealer tighten, 2nd > time I tightened them myself and noticed that 1 of the 3 bolts on each [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > side was missing. > Why don't they snug them any tighter, or use locktite??? #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Mon Jul 17 15:45:32 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 95 15:45:32 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Powdercoating All, I have had a lot of powdercoating done, wheels, rear crossmember, other misc. Some of the available materials are more weather-resistant than others. Ask about this before getting this stuff baked onto your Rover bits. My garage door handle (dull black) is holding up much better than my rear crossmember (also dull black, but a different formula apparently. I'd go with the POR paint that's been the subject of recent postings, if possible. It's easier to paint over old paint than over powdercoat. The genuine brushbar and rear ladder I just put on the wife's Disco appear to be powdercoated, so we'll see in a few years, though it will garaged most of the time. Regards, Hank ('60 Ser II) From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 17 95 Jul EDT 1917 Date: 17 Jul 95 17:51:25 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: misc. (RR questions) > Question for RR owners: I have a '91 RR. The service engine light has just > come on recently and stayed on. I service the vehicle all the time. What > causes this light to come on? Well, I know from a relative of mine who owns a top-model BMW that on the BMW, the service light stays on until the car actually *is* serviced and the light is reset by the mechanic who enters some sort of code into the ECU via the service computer interface to which the vehicle's electronics are hooked. That way you can always tell whether the car has been given proper workshop inspection. Of course if you insist on servicing it yourself you can always smash the little bulb to extinguish it... Now with the RR, I don't know if this is the same, I don't own such a recent model. Could be a possibility, though. > Do these vehicle eat rotors? You bet. And the pads. And petrol, and... Stefan From Guy Arnold Mon Jul 17 20:20:37 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 20:20:37 EDT From: Guy Arnold Subject: Condenser Failure I finally put my 1973 Series III swb on the road the other day after a year of rebuilding and it ran great. After about a week of occasional driving I was headed into town to attend a car show. Apparently the "Green Machine" wanted no part of a car show that did not have other Land-Rovers in it. I was motoring along pretty good, up to 65mph on one stretch, and then brought it back down to the speed limit for town and everything was clicking just fine when it was like someone turned a switch off. After towing the machine home and some checking of wires I found the condenser had *hit the bed. I have never had a condesner fail like that before especially one that was practically brand new. Has anyone else had a similar experience? I put the "Green Machine" insurance on the same policy as my other vehicles. I told my agent that it was a 1973 Land-Rover Series III and when I got my insurance card from Allstate it said Range Rover. I tried to explain to my agent that in this case the chicken did come before the egg and that Land-rover was the company that builds Range Rovers. She said that when she enter my VIN in her Allstate computer it came back as Range Rover and they had no listing for Land-rover. I told her she might want to inform Allstate that there is a difference but she didn't seem to see the need. I guess the Series vehicles are not uppie enough for Allstate. Guy Arnold 1973 Series III swb "Green Machine" 1972 Series III swb (almost sold) 1960 MGA 1600 (for show only) From tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Tue Jul 18 10:59:18 1995 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 10:59:18 +0930 From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Subject: International Subscription G'day fellow Land Rover Owners! It's Tiffany here. I went to a committee meeting last night of the Land Rover Register of SA Inc, of which I am a member, to discuss International Membership. The club is based in Goodwood in South Australia, AUSTRALIA. Our club is the largest Land Rover's Only club in Australia (and until recently the only one) that will not accept members into the club if they do not own or part own a Land Rover (minimum of a chassis). Our club has a very wide range of vehicles including: Series I's, II's and III's, Forward Controls, Stage I's, County's (Petrol & Diesel), Defenders, Discoveries and Rangies. At one stage we had a 90 but the owner was visiting from England and has now gone home. (Hi Pete if your watching!!!) The details of our International Membership are as follows: * It is a family membership so all of your family become members * You will be sent (By airmail) our club magazine on a monthly basis (there are 11 issues printed - we do not print a magazine in December). Every member is encouraged to contribute to the magazine.There is technical advise/ support, members stories, Land Rover Press Releases, Games (crosswords, etc), advertisements (members can advertise in the magazine free of charge) and lots more. * You are welcome to participate in all club trips (if you come to visit us in Australia) including our trials, our fishing competition and our Christmas Party!!!! * You will NOT have voting rights NOR be covered by our Club's public liability Insurance (for obvious reasons :-) * You will belong to a fast growing club that operates solely for the promotion of Land Rovers. If anyone is interested in joining, the fee is $45 Australian dollars (Bankdraft or Money Orders only accepted), however please feel free to ask more questions before you join. An application form will soon be available via E-mail but for now I'll have to send you one via Snail-Mail. Please send any mail with enquiries for membership, any questions, suggestions or whatever to: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au and I'll get back to you as soon as I can! If you want to join send me your home address (but don't send any money yet we'll bill you!! :-) Only kidding you send the fee in with the application form. Looking forward to getting to know some of you better (and your vehicles)! Tiffany & Chris Downing (Series IIA - LWB, Soft Top, Ex-Army lookalike - looking to upgrade to a County if someone wants to give us one! :-) Tiffany Downing ******************************************* Co-ordinator, International Student Program TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA Phone: (61 8) 226 3202 Fax: (61 8) 226 3655 E-Mail: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au ******************************************* Tiffany Downing ******************************************** Co-ordinator, International Student Programs TAFE South Australia, AUSTRALIA Phone: (61 8) 226 3202 Fax: (61 8) 226 3655 E-Mail: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au ******************************************** From David John Place Mon Jul 17 21:18:44 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 21:18:44 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Condenser Failure I have had condenser failure as well but only on the unipoint kind. We just completed a complete rebuild on a small block Chev only to find it wouldn't start. It turned out to be the condenser on the combination points condenser unit. When we went back to separate points and condenser it worked fine. My mechanic friend says he never uses unipoints since having this problem a few times. Dave VE4PN From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Mon Jul 17 19:56:22 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 19:56:22 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Int'l SA Subscription Tiffany Downing writes: >It's Tiffany here. I went to a committee meeting last night of the Land Rover Register of SA Inc, of which I am a member, to discuss International Membership. The club is based in Goodwood in South Australia, AUSTRALIA. Ahhh, and here I thought SA was South Africa all this time (I guess the phrase 'committee meeting last night' threw me!). >Our club is the largest Land Rover's Only club in Australia (and until recently the only one) that will not accept members into the club if they do not own or part own a Land Rover (minimum of a chassis). I have a few parts, but I actually know real people with Land Rovers. Hey, I can get a free IIA chassis from a guy in SLO... I just have to haul it away. Maybe he'll just send me a Bill of Sale and scrap it for me. Will that do? >* It is a family membership so all of your family become members I consider the Left Coast U.S.A. Land Rover owners as my family, now may I join?? >* You will be sent (By airmail) our club magazine on a monthly basis (there >are 11 issues printed - we do not print a magazine in December). December, summer time in SA, too much fun out Rovering! >If anyone is interested in joining, the fee is $45 Australian dollars How much is that in real money?? Perhaps it makes more sense for us persons overseas to have our local clubs join yours, and vica versa. Can't really take advantage of all the fun get-togethers planned, the classifieds, or technical support, etc. unless you put out a helluva newsletter and fax advance copies! Maybe LROA/NA will set up a liason with your club. G'day! Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From JFisk1120@aol.com Mon Jul 17 22:59:17 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 22:59:17 -0400 From: JFisk1120@aol.com Subject: Re: Galvanizing Renewal for LR One of you asked about the source of a product which is suitable for renewing the galvanized finish on the Series Rover trim. The product which I have used very successfully on more than one Rover is: Hunting (Phone: 800-733-4413) Silver Gray #35511 Hammered Metal Finish Believe it or not, the spray seems to adhere and flow better if the metal being sprayed is slightly cooler than the ambient air temperature of the room. A brightly lit spray booth seems to be too warm for the proper application of this particular paint. That's my story and I'm "stickin' to it"! J. Howard Fisk, "We Brake for 'Closed Road' Signs" Springfield, Missouri 1964-88" LR 19'70-109" LR 19'72-88" LR 1991 RR 1993 LWB RR From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Tue Jul 18 13:48:21 1995 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 13:48:21 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Int'l SA Subscription Mike writes: > Hey, I can get a free IIA chassis from a guy in SLO... I just have to haul > it away. Maybe he'll just send me a Bill of Sale and scrap it for me. > Will that do? Maybe Mike, but first you have to convince us that you *Really* plan to restore said rusted out chassis back to its former glory, then you can be considered for membership. (We're a bunch of hard cases mike and no smegging foreign rubbish allowed) One member has spent the last 11 (eleven) years restoring a series 1, no one has actually seen it in one piece but judging by the number of parts he's bought from the UK he must have one...... It's going to be a concours de elegance series 1 when its finally finished........ > >If anyone is interested in joining, the fee is $45 Australian dollars > How much is that in real money?? About two slabs........ cheers -- Daryl From tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Tue Jul 18 14:23:45 1995 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 14:23:45 +0930 From: tiffanyd@tafe.sa.edu.au (Tiffany Downing) Subject: RE: International Membership >> Hey, I can get a free IIA chassis from a guy in SLO... I just have to haul it away. Maybe he'll just send me a Bill of Sale and scrap it for me. >> Will that do? >Maybe Mike, but first you have to convince us that you *Really* plan to restore said rusted out chassis back to its former glory, then you can be considered for membership. (We're a bunch of hard cases mike and no smegging foreign rubbish allowed) Yeah!! You tell em Darryl. :-) From Mike Slade Mon Jul 17 23:41:06 1995 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 1995 23:41:06 -0600 (MDT) From: Mike Slade Subject: My Bloody (er, bleeding) brakes!!! Ok, to make a long story short...(which of course RARELY happens), I've replaced the two front wheel cylinders, bled them as much as I can and am now waiting for the two rear wheel cylinders (should be here any day now I hope) from British Pacific. I can't bleed the From Stephen Thomas Tue Jul 18 08:01:41 1995 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 08:01:41 -0400 From: Stephen Thomas Subject: Re: Lucas strikes in a Discovery! Robert wrote: >newer Solihull products, if this weekend is any clue. Now granted, this >reports a very minor occurence, hardly one to stop the beast, but perhaps >it foreshadows electrical joys to come (in 20 -30 years). Believe it or not, your turn signal might be working as designed! >...No happy little >trailer icon at all. And a very staccato "BlipBlupBlipBlup" replaced the >reassuring "ka-thunk Blump. Ka-thunk Blump." I've not seen this described in the owner's manual, but, when the turn signal blinks at about twice normal speed, without the trailer icon, then it's trying to tell you that the lamp (the one in the rear of the vehicle, not in the dashboard ;^) has burned out. I can't say if your lamp really has burned out, or, if so, why the lamp burned out, but I do know this works. I discovered this first hand when I, too, thought poltergeists had taken over and sped up the turn signal. Fortunately, this actually happened on the way to the dealer for an oil change. When I mentioned it to the service guy he told me what it was trying to say. We checked, and sure enough, the right turn signal lamp was dead. --Stephen ____________________________________________________________ Stephen Thomas AT&T Tridom Phone: (404) 514-3522 840 Franklin Court