From Andrew Grafton Fri Jun 30 9:57:08 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 95 9:57:08 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Piston Rings Spare Due to a mishap we have had to buy a set of rings for one piston, of which we have used one. Thus the following are available if anyone needs them now or in the future; To fit 2286 diesel, 40 thou oversize pistons; Top ring NOT second ring down (we used it) Third ring Fourth (scraper/oil ctl) ring We couldn't buy just one ring. The others are going for the cost of the postage + beer money as they are useless to us. Anyone need one or all of 'em? All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From Mark Perry Fri Jun 30 04:18:46 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 04:18:46 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry Subject: models The ESCI (italian) kits - at least the ones I have - are 1/24 Range Rover two-door (early-ish, with the vertical slotted grille) very nice kit with nice details, except I think the tires look a bit undersize and you have to melt the little stub axles ends to get the hubs on, if I recall correctly, and FJ-40 Toyota Land Cruiser, canvas top (unbuilt). I don't know if these are still available, or if they had any other 4x4 or LR models in this series. Mark Perry Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop "Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire." From Tom Stevenson Fri Jun 30 10:19:52 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 10:19:52 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Stevenson Subject: Engine support Support the engine by jacking it up a bit and inserting a 1" wooden spacer between the engine flywheel cover and the crossmember before removing the gearbox. Watch out- the gearbox is bloody heavy. Good luck! -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 From Charlie Wright Fri Jun 30 12:13:26 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:13:26 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Heat and Turbulence On Thu, 29 Jun 1995, Alexander P. Grice wrote: "company's" jeep.) At the base of the intake manifold where the fuel-air mix would first hit, there were eight or ten "fingers" cast in place, kinda the diameter of a 16 penny nail, though only about an inch tall. Seemed like a great idea - introduce heat and turbulence into the fuel vapor flow.... This actually seems a bit odd to me... from a passing experience with race-tuned BMW engines. The obsession there is porting and flowing. Take the carb/manifold/head junctions and make them as smooth as a baby's bottom. Polish everything and re-shape all the joints to remove any corners or edges... Get the fluid dynamics as efficient as possible to really get that flow flowing. Now perhaps I've answered my own conundrum here. I suppose you are not worried about restricting the flow, just improving the completeness/efficiency of burning. We were trying to get the mass flow to maximum in the name of horsepower. Still, it stands to reason that while warming the mixture would be beneficial, turbulence would slow the flow. I would expect a decrease in performance for the increase in efficiency (the usual rule). I would alternatively think that a properly set-up carb with a nicely flowed intake would achieve a better power to efficiency balance... and more all 'round satisfaction. my $.02 Charlie From Charlie Wright Fri Jun 30 12:27:52 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:27:52 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Static Coolant Loss There's always checking the radiator cap. Was it tight? Is the rubber seal any good? Has the weather been warm. You could have leakage through evaporation. I would think the head removal excessive. Try draining the sump, not pulling it. After sitting for two months, the water (if there is any) will be at the bottom. If you really fear water in pistons, rather than pulling the head, try taking out the spark plugs. Obiously look for rust, but turn it over with the hand crank and see if you get little fountains (it does turn over, yes?) This would be _bad_. Hope that's of some use. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Fri Jun 30 08:14:55 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 08:14:55 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Clanking Continues Ok folks, I need some help again. I've replaced the missing studs from the exhaust manifold and removed and replaced the broken studs from the manifold to head connection, but the rattle is still there. Perhaps even worse. Engine idles and revs fine while at a full stop. When I accelerate, in any gear, I get this loud clanking or rattling sound coming from the back of the engine. Clutch seems to be acting funny too. Before I start to replace the clutch, are these sounds consistent with oncoming clutch failure? Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From Charlie Wright Fri Jun 30 14:08:58 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 14:08:58 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Vacuum options A few of us have been swatting this around, I'm looking for others' experience. Converting a 109 _Diesel_ to servo assisted brakes (without going to a Perkins engine with vacuum pump) is a pig. There is the bizarre flap-in-the-intake that chokes your motor, improves your smoke to diesel ratio, and doesn't work well option that Rover themselves used. I don't like it. This is so inefficient it requires vacuum reservoirs dotted around the vehicle... Pump is the best answer, but where? On some of the later vehicles they re-cast the timing cover to have a bracket for a pump in the fan-belt circuit. On an older model, there are few good anchor points for this kind of thing. Thoughts so far (mine and others). -Remove timing cover and manufacture a tidy bracket. -Electric? vacuum pump. -Vacuum pump powered off compressor (this is odd?) -Rumored FORD diesel had Lucus alternator which had a built-in vacuum-pump (actually part of the alternator casing)? Confirm? Any ideas, solutions, or comments gratefully digested. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox) Fri Jun 30 09:51:03 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 09:51:03 +0000 From: gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox) Subject: 101 for sale? Paul will probably kill me for letting this out, but he has a 101 which for the right price he may let go. ca$18000. She's complete but ????. The man was planning on motorhoming her but still hasn't got around to it. GS model by the way. Anyway, Paul Safari Components. Queenston, ON (Near Niagara Falls) 905 262-4448 P.S. Don't tell him who told you. Built for comfort and speed......NOT!!!! BUILT TO LAST... From gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox) Fri Jun 30 09:50:51 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 09:50:51 +0000 From: gwilcox@icis.on.ca (Gowyn Wilcox) Subject: Defender in ca Sorry to bore you all, but this is mainly a colonial question. Does anyone know why the D90 will no longer be sold in Canada? I was planning on looking into one in a couple of years, but now what. And what about buying stateside? Also for any of you LRNA types, why is a real work horse only sold at high end, snobby, full of themselves BMW, Jag dealerships? While I'm at it, I've heard several not so flattering comments about the D90, I'm just wondering if these are true or not, Do they have a problem staying in gear? A salesman was telling me that his popped out of gear while climbing a hill. Also, I understand that the low range is vacuum driven(may be wrong) and that while backing down a hill there isn't enough vacuum to maintain and then pop....what a ride. Just a thought. Built for comfort and speed......NOT!!!! BUILT TO LAST... From "Jeff Young" Fri Jun 30 10:40:46 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 10:40:46 -0400 From: "Jeff Young" Subject: Re: Stage ONE from reading the taylor books, i thought that the stage vehicles refer to 109's or 110's that had v-8 engines. these made their first appearances in the mid 70's? i also think that they were introduced after the series vehicles. Jeff Young young@mci.net From Jeff Gauvin Fri Jun 30 8:58:54 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 95 8:58:54 MDT From: Jeff Gauvin Subject: RE: D90 Q&A >From: kessels.bill=40ott01=40c14a#%forwarder@ey.geis.com >David Rosenbaum writes: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] >are asking for trouble putting something in which looks "high security"--they >will just take a crowbar to it. The mechanic at the Denver (CO) Pioneer Center Land Rover has one in his D90. It looked great; in fact I plan on putting one in mine. It certainly offers more security than the stock "low security" cubby which doesn't even require any tools to break into (while I haven't tried, it seems like a good solid pull on the lid should pop the thing right open). >>Suggestions for: extra gas can? bicycle carrier? mounting or storing a >hi-lift jack? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >jack and a fire extinguisher (see the June Issue of LROI-they put one in their >D90) I use the Land Rover (Allsop?) hitch mounted bike rack. I does compromise the angle of departure so I wouldn't recommend taking it off-road, but it is extremely easy to use and very solid. >>Experience with the optional hard-top? >I have the plastic hard top which works well in the winter, cuts down [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >would be a few things I'd buy first with the CDN $4500 they charge for it....a >brush bar....a winch.... I too have the fiberglass hardtop. Looks great, much quieter, nearly leak-free. Mine came with the vehicle (dealer installed) and I haven't taken it off yet. Looks like it would take two people about an hour to remove, but about 2-3 times as long to reinstall (realign & sealing). For me, the hardtop was a requirement. I live in a city and the hardtop adds a lot of security; my D90 is probably as secure as any car. I also use my D90 as a "daily driver" so I appreciate the quieter ride. And finally, with fewer drafts the heater should be better able to keep me warm in the cold Colorado winters. Time will tell how well it holds up; I've only had my D90 for 3 months. >Bill Kessels >94 D90 >kesselsb@ey.geis.com -- Jeffrey J. Gauvin email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com Symbios Logic Inc. Voice: 719-573-3563 1635 Aeroplaza Dr. FAX: 719-573-3824 Colorado Springs, CO 80916 94 D90 Hardtop From vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Fri Jun 30 17:31:05 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 17:31:05 +0200 From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Subject: Re: Vacuum options >Pump is the best answer, but where? >-Rumored FORD diesel had Lucus alternator which had a built-in > vacuum-pump (actually part of the alternator casing)? Confirm? * My brother owns a Mitsubishi 4 x 4 Pajero TDI, I think a 1987 model or thereabout. On this particular car, a vacuum pump for servo assisted brakes has been fitted to the rear end of the alternator. (I know, because the alternator had to be replaced at some time). I 'm not sure if it will fit a LR. Mitsubishi parts are, in my opinion, rather expensive, compared to the cost of LR parts... Hope this has been of interest to you. Greetings Bert Palte From rmodica@east.pima.edu Fri Jun 30 09:06:54 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 09:06:54 MST From: rmodica@east.pima.edu Subject: Roaring Disco Bob Jameson writes about a roaring noise from his gas auto Disco. I also get a very loud roaring from my gas 5spd the first mile or so. Sounds like the engine wants to take flight. It disappears after a bit. There seems to be no correlation between engine temperature or outside temperature -- it roars at 35 degrees F and 108 degrees F. Once in a great while the roar is completely gone. Haven't had the 15,000 service yet (I've got to drive 120 miles to the nearest dealer in Scottsdale AZ). I need a new windshield for my Disco -- AZ DOT gravel trucks sprayed loose gravel all over and chipped it last July when I had only 900 miles on it. It has taken almost a year to get them to admit it was their fault and agree to replace the glass. Called the local glass shop and had them order a new windshield and you guessed it, I go to my 8AM appointment today and they ordered a Range Rover glass. After a series of "Who makes it?" questions and looking in parts books "If it's not in this book they don't make it!" they finally thought they better "call me when they find out something". While I was there I caught a glimpse of the Range Rover glass order. List price was about $850 -- net price was about $250. Talk about a markup!! Rob Modica '51 SI 80" '60 109" Safari '94 Disco 5spd Tucson, AZ From David John Place Fri Jun 30 12:52:06 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:52:06 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Troubleshooting Static Coolant Loss You can usually find internal leaks to the block by looking at the oil If it looks like milk you are in trouble. You can usually see little streaks of white if the leak is only small. You can also see if the oil level is going up rather than down. This take a significant amount of water however and the oil would look white. Check the core of you heater they are often the cause of the problem and you would never see it. In fact it is not a bad idea to run the heater once in a while just to prevent the core getting rotted out. If all else fails get a rad pressure test and see if it holds a pressure. You could have a bad cap that is letting liquid escape out the overflow or just gassing to atmosphere when the vehicle runs etc. Dave VE4PN From David John Place Fri Jun 30 12:56:56 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:56:56 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Heat and Turbulence I wonder if you could use the old stock trick of passing the gas through a tin of dry ice to cool the liquid before you injected it instead of getting turbulence. I have never tried it but my street racing gang of thirty years ago seemed to think it gave that little extra to win. Dave VE4PN From carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) Fri Jun 30 11:17:46 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 11:17:46 -0700 From: carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) Subject: Sealing Rocker Cover Gasket? Greetings, LROs, I'm fitting a new rocker cover gasket to my 2.25 Petrol IIa. It's a cork unit from Rovers North with peel-and-stick on one side. Am I correct to think the sticky side goes toward the cover not the head? Should I use a gasket seal compound or put it on dry? Many Thanks, CJC From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Fri Jun 30 14:51:17 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 14:51:17 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Coolant Loss You can also check the coolant that remains for signs of oil...indicating a blown head gasket. In that case you should replace all rubber cooling hoses before you go anywhere. Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Fri Jun 30 14:54:22 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 14:54:22 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Re: Sealing Rocker Cover Gasket? >I'm fitting a new rocker cover gasket to my 2.25 Petrol IIa. It's a cork >unit from Rovers North with peel-and-stick on one side. Am I correct to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >think the sticky side goes toward the cover not the head? >Should I use a gasket seal compound or put it on dry? Just installed one myself...the sticky side does go on the cover, not the head. Don't use any sealant or you'll have to replace the gasket everytime you check the tappets...making Rovers North richer or course. Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From JFisk1120@aol.com Fri Jun 30 15:27:02 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 15:27:02 -0400 From: JFisk1120@aol.com Subject: Triple C Information I just received my latest Triple C Motor Accessories Catalogue in the mail today. Their numbers are as follows: Phone Orders: (408) 942-5485 Hours 8:30 AM to 6:00 PM PST Monday through Friday 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM PST Saturday Fax Order Line: (408) 942-5582 Open 24 Hours Jan Fisk Springfield, Missouri From Andy Dingley Fri Jun 30 21:08:33 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 95 21:08:33 From: Andy Dingley Subject: Rangie fuel pumps Who made the vertical fuel pump used on an '85 Rangie (Stromberg carbs)? I have two bust V8s outside; my Rangie with the stuck diff lock, and a friend's V8 lightweight with a dead SU fuel pump. Looking at the manual, I could see that Rangies have a "vertical tin can" pump which is obviously not the traditional unreliable SU, but I presumed it was an SU copy of the Facet design. Having been bitten by SUs in the past, I wouldn't be averse to getting rid of it (and any Lucas electrics while I'm at it). My plan was to move the later "Facet clone" SU from the Rangie, discard the nasty old horizontal SU, and buy a new Facet for the Rangie. Taking the pump off was easy enough; do the requisite amount of cursing at the nuts, then just lever the rubber bobbins apart with a 3' crowbar 8-) The strange thing was that when I had the pump off, it turns out to be a genuine Facet. Is this original, or has it already been changed in the past ? I guess the original plan still stands, but I do feel I'm now replacing something that maybe didn't need it after all... What's a good pump for a Rangie ? Is a Solid State big enough, or should I go for a Silver Top ? -- Andy Dingley dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk And the Whale asked, "Do all oceans have walls ?" From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Fri Jun 30 19:50:25 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 19:50:25 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: What to do, what to do... The studio just called. They want my Rover for filming next weekend; as last year, John Rhys-Davies will again be narrating segments to appear on TLC's "Archaeology" series (and the Rover gets paid handsomely!). The problem? We've schedule a work weekend at Penlan Farm to rebuild part of the trials course that was wiped out by the loggers. I was up there a month ago, and I can assure all those attending the Mid-Atlantic Rally that the mud pit Mike built IS GOING TO SNARE VEHICLES! Last fall, it had been dry for months, so the mud was minimal. A month ago, it was a boot-sucking quagmire, and after this week's floods, *I challenge you* to get through it! So what should it be...go for the minutes of fame on international TV, or go rebuild the trials course? *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From "thomas r. coron" Fri Jun 30 21:37:28 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 21:37:28 EDT From: "thomas r. coron" Subject: Sighting The latest Outback Steak House has a few seconds of what I believe was a IIa 88. Their previous commercial showed 2 Aussies getting out of an 88 in the desert, but for only a fraction of a second. I know that several of you will be able to give a much more specific description of the latest one, probably including the serial number range, but I just couldn't wait any longer. Saw part of the ad yesterday, and have been waiting for a repeat so I can get a better look and be more specific, but just couldn't wait any longer. ;-) Tom Coron tcoron@s850.mwc.edu King George,Va. 703-775-4575 '66' IIA 88 RHD From Jim Russell Fri Jun 30 19:04:18 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 19:04:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Russell Subject: Hylomar Alan Richer: Hylomar is readily available in the U.S. from, I believe, Locktite in tubes and spray cans. Check out the rack of sealants and stuff at the local parts emporium and you should find it. If you don't, ask 'em about the stuff. Most parts stores carry it. I love the stuff but not everyone is as sold as I am on it. Jim Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Jun 30 19:04:11 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 19:04:11 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: What to do, what to do... >The studio just called. They want my Rover for filming next weekend; as last year, John Rhys-Davies will again be narrating segments to appear on TLC's "Archaeology" series (and the Rover gets paid handsomely!). >So what should it be...go for the minutes of fame on international TV, or go rebuild the trials course? First work, then play! Actually, it's better for the LR marque to have a representative being admired by the young generation (as well as us older fossils!), besides, it sounds like your mud-hole is in pretty good shape already. Just think, if the LR is replaced by a Jeep or some other lesser vehicle on the show ...Yipes! Michael Carradine Carradine Studios cs@crl.com Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr 510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 30 95 Jun EDT 1922 Date: 30 Jun 95 22:28:19 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Misc. Thorsten.... Wilkommen. I have fond memories of holidays in Mainz with friends at the University in late 70's early 80's. with lots of good wine. A ser 2/3 hard top will fit a l/w easily. The top is actually about 20 mm wider than the l/w but at the door the sides will pull in with no problem and at the rear there is a slight overhang. The rover co actually fit the hard top to many of the military vehicles without any alterations. A source for a cheap hard top is Martin at Landrover replacements, tel (44) 1924 430006. tell him I gave you his name and you are a poor student etc. The side filler conversion is simple, either use the standard 2/3 tank or add a filler pipe to your existing tank. The standard filler will actually be inside the rear wheel arch and it is a simple matter to make a connection from the panel at the rear of the door to the tank. Peter, it is possible to change the clutch on a ser 2 or 3 by sliding the gearbox back about 4 or 5 inches, without removing the seat box. To make it easier measure the gap between the flywheel housing and the chassis cross member, take a piece of wood or metal, the same thickness, say about 8 inch long and put it between the housing and the chassis with the extension to the rear. As you slide back the gearbox the weight of the engine will keep the wood in place. This will support the rear of the engine and also the front of the gearbox and aid in alignment when it comes time to push the gearbox forward. To replace the clutch in this manner requires a short centre alignment tool. Alan. Hylomar, or sq32m is an aircraft standard sealing material, it is relatively thin, does not harden and stick the parts together and will withstand temperature. For most sealing applications on the rover, the silicone type instant gasket materials are acceptable, however for the cylinder head gasket a higher quality material is required, one that you can seperate at some future date. Jory.. when looking inside the open top of your gearbox, with the three selector shafts removed( remove the 3/4 selector first on a ser 3 and last on a ser 2, the middle one second and the reverse gear selector last on a ser 3 and first on a ser 2) you will then see a gear arrangement with a brass ring at either end. the brass rings are separated by 3 round spacers, about 2 inch long. This is the 3/4 synchro hub. in between these brass rings you will see a gear with a central disc which the selector fitted over, Thisdisc slides to and fro to change from 3 rd to 4 th. if you rotate the mainshaft , you should see, under each of the three spacers a spring in the form of a black metal plate which passes through holes in the disc. the springs have a bump in the middle to hold the gear to the front or to the rear. if you manually slide the gear to and fro you should feel it click into position. If one of the spring clips is missing it unbalances the forces on the gear and it will tend to stick and be difficult to move. Regards Bill Leacock. Limey in exile. From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Thu Jun 30 21:43:05 1994 Date: Thu, 30 Jun 1994 21:43:05 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Drag link ball joint Re: 89 RR OK, the drag link is disconnected from the forward steering arm of the passenger wheel. I removed the retaining bolt. For the life of me, I can't unscrew the damn ball joint from the drag link! Suggestions? P.S. I have a drop arm ball joint refurbishing kit, but now after further investigation, that ball joint doesn't seem so loose. Looks like a pain to fix. I have a puller ready just in case. kgb (everything else seems to be going well with the restoration) ************************************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ************************************************************************* From "S.Vels Christensen" Fri Jul 1 05:36:42 1994 Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 05:36:42 -0600 (CST) From: "S.Vels Christensen" Subject: RE: Stage ONE In message Thu, 29 Jun 1995 23:32:15 -0400 (EDT), "Steven Swiger LIS" writes: : could someone please tell me the difference between a Land Rover Stage- : vehicle and a Series- Vehicle? : I have seen this used in several places and always figured they meant : Series One... : Any Info is appreciated... : thnx : steve : swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu In the late 70'ties and the early eighties, three basic models were available. - 88" and 109" 2.25 (petrol/diesel) -109" V8 (petrol). The 2.25 types were real Land-Rovers with a recessed radiator, aluminium gearbox with a yellow and a red knob. The 109" V8 had a straight front, an iron gearbox with a lockable centre diff like a 110" limousine but was leaf sprung and had a divided windshield. I believe this is the Stage One. We could also call it series three-and-a-half. (I wonder if the Solihull blacksmiths took a course in Japanese cooking?). sv/aurens From "S.Vels Christensen" Fri Jul 1 05:36:51 1994 Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 05:36:51 -0600 (CST) From: "S.Vels Christensen" Subject: RE: Fuel Injection For Series Land Rover? In message Thu, 29 Jun 1995 17:33:56 -0700, johnliu@earthlink.net (John Y. Liu) writes: : I recently did some looking into the aftermarket fuel injection units sold : by Holley under the name "Projection". These are throttle body, computer : controlled, fuel injection units with a closed loop (oxygen sensor) : option. The idle, mixture, etc. can be controlled from the cab. They are : not street legal in California, but on an early 60's truck that wouldn't : matter much. The Holley line includes a single-barrel unit intended for : Jeeps. I don't have the exact cost but I think it is in the $250-300 : range. Has anyone ever looked into fitting one of these, or any fuel : injection, to a Series rover? I'm curious about the possible advantages : in gas mileage, cold and hot starting, high-altitude operation, : emissions, and driveability. Not that a Series rover is deficient in any : of these areas, mind you, nor would I ever suggest such, but . . . given : the cost of a Solex carburator nowadays . . . I've been thinking of injection for a while. I looked a my dad's VW Polo which has manifold injection. Four little units. They are connected to a probe in the catalyst. The lambda probe's only job is to adjust the mixture to, i think, 17:1. The catalytic process is optimal with this mixture. I think the engine is identical to the one used just before cats became compulsory on new cars. Injection superseded carburettors to add the few kW that was eaten by the cat. It should be relatively easy to drill four holes in the manifold and mount the injectors. Using the lambda-probe should provide an easy way to control the mixture, -at least to have some where to start. The probe only returns an electric value i think. Nothing digital. If the mixture is wrong for the compression in a landy, it must be possible to adjust the voltage return from the probe. Choke. Modern cars with choke use automatic bi-metal types. Must be possible to find something useful. Otherwise the probe or the water temp sender should be able to handle a simple and reliable circuit to provide a decreasingly rich mixture until the engine heats up. Manifolds. Without the carb, the inlet manifold can be replaced by four pieces of straight pipe each with an injector and a K&N. The exhaust manifold can be replaced with a one-two pipe. If one comes as far as this, a Lumenition is of course a must. Just a few ideas. I wish i could conduct a few experiments myself, but there is nothing but echoes in the treasury at this time :-( Comments and opinions welcome. sv/aurens From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat Jul 01 01:41:04 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 1995 01:41:04 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: What the heck is Hylomar sealing com > I'm putting my petrol engine back together again (I hope) and > I need an American substitute for this mysterious substance... > Would Form-A-Gasket copper aircraft sealing compound do? Hylomar, smylomar! I use Indian Head gasket sealer. Nice thick sticky black goo. Works fine, lasts a long time. OK,OK.. if you REALLY want Hylomar.... Loctite makes a Hylomar Gasket Dressing Sealant.. Sold as Loctite Worldtech 819 Hylomar. Comes in a brown tube. At popular autoparts stores.. and some pretty unpopular ones too, I'll wager. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Almost Done!) 7 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) #:-}> 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts) From rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose) Fri Jun 30 23:47:08 1995 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 23:47:08 -0700 (PDT) From: rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose) Subject: Reply to Jeremy and Peter In regards to: From: Peter Aslan Subject: Urgent: Help with Clutch. I've checked the the MAser and Slave Cylinders, The peddle has a strange action, it only goes about half way down and meets a definate clonk or apparent obstruction. This sounds like the slave cylinder piston bottoming out on the circlip. Try lengthening the push rod for more travel. Or, more importantly, if this has happened recently, check for broken clevis pins on the cross shaft. A broken clutch usually doesn't have the symptoms you describe. AND: From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Troubleshooting Static Coolant Loss I peeked into Mathilda's (SIIA 109 SW) radiator this evening just by chance and noticed that the coolant has disappeared out of sight! :( This of course raises the question of where did it go? The nightmare being that its trickled into the block/head somewhere where it shouldn't be. Since the engine has not run, if the water leaked into the oil, then it has sunk to the bottom of the sump under the oil and not mixed. If you loosen the sump drain plug, the let just a bit of liquid out, you will get water if it is there, or oil if it isn't. If the water isn't there, well... Look in the down pipe. Or intake manifold? Small chance, but that's about it. Regards, Randy Rose '57 107 Station Wagon From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat Jul 01 03:34:32 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 1995 03:34:32 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Split Charge Circuits Andy.. Go the "black box" route. Find an isolator box - probably at an RV or caravan supply place - and wire it in. I used one on a VW Westfalia for years with no problems at all. Had a few times when I ran the aux battery almost dead and the main still had a full charge. The instructions with the isolator I have suggested installing a circuit breaker in the line between the isolator and the aux battery.. just to protect the isolator in case of overloading the aux battery. Cheers Mike From "John B. Friedman" Sat Jul 1 07:24:02 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 95 07:24:02 -0500 From: "John B. Friedman" Subject: Discovery tips Anyone one out there with a Discovery who wants to offer driving impressions and problem tips? I have one on order. Thanks. Reply privately to johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu From "John B. Friedman" Sat Jul 1 07:41:26 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 95 07:41:26 -0500 From: "John B. Friedman" Subject: PS on Discovery Please reply only to johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu, as johannes@draco.slip.uiuc.edu won't accept mail From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Sat Jul 1 06:08:09 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 95 06:08:09 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: The D90 SKINNY On our way up to Owl's Head, but this just from the horse's mouth? and I quote: *THERE WILL BE NO 1996 DEFENDER 90* end quote... (USA model) There will also be a limited number of D90 hardtop *STATION WAGON* models produced for fall introduction... Pricing and equipment details on this model not known at present... Production of the NAS D90 will continue until the end of 1995. Again, no 1996 production of NAS D90. After that? Who knows. Cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! 1967 SIIA 5.0 hybrid 1967 SIIA 109 5.0 hybrid 1968 F/C IIB diesel 1970 3500S 1990 Range Rover County 1993 D110 From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 1 08:28:00 1994 Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 08:28:00 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: 89 RR Update Sorry I've been out of touch, busy... you know. Well, as my previous post shows, I'm back at work. Remember the frozen caliper thread way back? "hmmmmm Oh yeah..." Well, I bought some brake fluid to prepare for my project and noticed, "Brake fluid is clear!" Well, clear compared to what was running through my lines. I figure, no one has changed the brake fluid in the >100,000 mi life of the RR. Well, I heard that air in the lines could cause frozen calipers (how? Idono.) Well, I thought a simple brake fluid renewal was in order. I bled all the brake lines and what do you know... I got bilateral foot drop from squatting so long. Oh yeah, the brakes work fine now too. The loose steering I believe is from thie drag link ball joint, I'll keep you posted. kgb 89 RR (But feels like 84 or even 83) ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 1 08:28:06 1994 Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 08:28:06 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Sightings I can't get over how excited everyone seems to get when they find that LR built more than just their own trucks. As for sightings, since Michael Jordan was seen tooling around in his RR, it seems everyone here in Chicago is driving a Disco. (Mostly around the south-side, though) kgb 89 RR ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 1 08:38:36 1994 Date: Fri, 1 Jul 1994 08:38:36 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: European brake binacle light Ok, last one. This is not for advice, but just a colorful story. Since I bought the 89RR, the driver side window was slow going up. All the other windows worked fine and the affected window went down fine. Well, as I was fixing up the center console, I noticed that the grounding wire for the window circuit emptied into one of the console's retaining bolts. When I finished fixing all the other problem (none related to, or anywhere near the vacinity of the window circuit) I then noticed that the binnacle light for the European Brakes was partially lit. To get it to go out, I just disconnect the ground for the window circuit. But, then the windows don't work. Simple solution: The binnacle light for european brakes is not used in the North American model, so I pulled out the bulb. Strange how that happens huh? The clincher... Now the driver side window works great! I give up. It could only happen in a RR! kgb 89RR In case anyone is wondering why an M.D. would be doing such extensive repairs on his own car... If I could afford to have it fixed I would, or I'd buy a new one. Problem is: as an Orthopaedic Surgery resident, I make around minimum wage (I suspect less) and car mechanics make $65/hr working on RR's. My time is much less valuable. ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Sat Jul 01 09:25:11 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 95 09:25:11 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: D 90 sales in Canada Someone asked why the D90 wont be sold in Canada any more. reason: not moving quicly enough of the lots with too litle profit margin. simple eh! ? -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Sat Jul 01 09:13:24 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 95 09:13:24 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: plastic models of solihull products There has been some chat of late on the availability of plastic kits of Land Rovers Defenders and Range Rovers. In my basement where my office is I have a samll alliadins cave of model kits unbuilt. Sorry they aint for sale! Most of the kits that peolpe have been refering to are long out of production and are like hens teeth these days. The ESCI range of 1/24 scale 109s, three versions and range rovers 3 versions I think, are really accurate and great fun. The pink panther kit from Tamiya along with the s2 ambulance were from the height of tamiya excellence. Unfortunatly they are no longer available. The monogram 1/24 s3 88 had awfull tyres but was reasonable accurate. It was also possible to interchange parts between the 1/24 scale kits to make some variations. The Tamiya 1/35 scale stuff was also interchangeable with the Italei s3 109 civilian model to make a whol slew of mdoels. As this is my background and how I became friends with LRO's Bob Morrison I have quite a pile of kits and accesories. i also have a pile of model making articles and how too's. If you are looking for any of these discontinued kits , good luck. What are they worth? How badly do you want them? I wouldnt part with mine for any moneyu' cos I cant replace them. I welcome direct email on this subject, if you want copies of articles or a listing then e mail me direct. Regards Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Sat Jul 01 09:22:46 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 95 09:22:46 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: 101's The two Toronto 101's came out of service with the Brits in Belize and then passed through a third party before being brought to canada. -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From BobandSueB@aol.com Sat Jul 1 13:17:14 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 1995 13:17:14 -0400 From: BobandSueB@aol.com Subject: Re:Static coolant loss In a message dated 95-07-01 04:43:52 EDT, you write: >Date: Fri, 30 Jun 1995 12:27:52 +0059 (BST) >From: Charlie Wright [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] >evaporation. >I would think the head removal excessive. Hi, My two cents is, What if the PO filled it and there was an air bubble as often happens with a closed thermostat? Eventually the water settles and there is a low level. Or you warm the engine and thermostat opens, then add water. Check the sump for water below the oil (first out the drain) also the plugs out to check cylinders. Then if no bad indications, Maybe just had a bubble. Bob Bernard From jhong@haiku.com (John Hong) Sat Jul 1 13:14:30 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 1995 13:14:30 -0700 From: jhong@haiku.com (John Hong) Subject: diesels and brakes... Hi All, Re: the thread on diesels and braking - how feasible is the reverse - instead of vacuum how about positive pressure? Don't the big trucks have a compressor and storage tank for brakes (don't they also fail from time to time - hence the "runaway" ramps on highways?) If a reliable pressure system existed for rovers, then seeing as you have a pressure accumulator already, one would pretty much *have to* get an air activated diff lock or two! :) I would assume that the compressor/tank sets sold for air locking diffs don't have the capacity/margin for braking applications? regards, John "oil burner wannabe" Hong John Hong Haiku Systems Lotus Notes Business Partner Consultant jhong@haiku.com 408-249-8340 From Dave White Sat Jul 1 19:00:47 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 1995 19:00:47 -0400 From: Dave White Subject: Re: Billing I will be marshalling at Billing again this year - I will probably be at the reception point Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Anybody from the list please make yourself known... I may be able to set aside a camping area for list subscribers. Anybody interested ??? Dave W. '72 SWB SIII V8 auto R/R Chassis and running gear. '89 Range Rover Yorkshire Rover Owners Club Dave W. '72 SWB SIII Yorkshire Rover Owners Club From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Thu Jul 1 18:54:20 1993 Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1993 18:54:20 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Loose steering thread Well, I finally got the draglink balljoint replaced. A vice and a pipe wrench AND A WHOLE LOTTA MUSCLE finally got it. I have Hayne's Owners shop manual and the drag link and drop arm ball joints changed pretty much as they describe. The only addition I could make is: Substitute the words "medium hammer" with "the biggest hammer you can lift." I eventually used a small sledge hammer (ie. a one-handed sledge hammer) I don't consider that 'medium'. Anyway, the steering is "show room new." I am very pleased. Now to finish putting the inside back together. Also, I have some brief input to make about the comparisons between parts suppliers. I used Atlantic B. and they always delivered what I ordered on time for a competative price (maybe not the lowest, but close) Brittish P. on the other hand delivered 2 weeks after the promised date and only 2 of 3 items were right. Now I have to deal with sending a part back (I almost feel like just eating the cost and just not using them again) kgb ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 01 95 Jul EDT 1920 Date: 01 Jul 95 20:16:43 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Ball joint removal Ken.. Removal of tight ball joints need not be a struggle, slide the clamp about a foot from the end. place the end of the rodt on an anvil, heavy vice or piece of heavy steel, with the ball joint overhanging and the rod flat on the surface, then hammer the end of the rod over the area where the screw thread is, rotate the rod and repeat the hammering all the way round. This will loosen the threads. DO NOT APPLY HEAT, this can alter the metallurgical structure of the material leading to premature failure. Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile ( and in hiding on Tuesday ) From holland@catapent.com (Shannon Holland) Sat Jul 1 17:52:59 1995 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 1995 17:52:59 -0700 (PDT) From: holland@catapent.com (Shannon Holland) Subject: Finally did it! Well, after months of talking about it and reading this list, I finally got myself to buy a Defender 90. It looking far to new and in desperate need of a decent coat of mud/dirt and perhaps a few scratches, I was wondering if anyone had some good recomendations in regards to places to go offroading in the San Francisco bay area? Thanks in advance! shannon From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Sat Jul 01 19:03:17 1995 Date: Sat, 01 Jul 95 19:03:17 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Need help locating 4 speed for IIa FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Need help locating 4 speed for IIa Hello! This is more directed towards you series lovers located in the UK. I have removed and disassembled the trans from my '71 Series IIa, and have discovered that I need the following parts: 2nd gear(s) (only need the Layshaft gear but comes in pair) $219 1st gear (layshaft) $75 Layshaft $145 (All the "little teeth" have been sheared off!) Total: $440 and that's without bearings or seals. I figured that the best way (as well as least expensive) is to get a rebuilt trans from the UK. In an old issue of LRO I found three places. Would someone please be willing to inquire as to which will provide the best rebuild, and at the best price? Land Part LTD. $ 305.50 (Pounds) Phone 0686 622177 L.E.G.S. LTD $ 293.75 (Pounds) Phone 0691 653737 AEW Paddock Motors Ltd. $188 (Pounds) Phone 0629 584499 These prices are around 1 year old, so they may not be current, and include VAT, but not shipping. Could you find out cost with shipping to the USA (Arizona)? Most importantly, though, is which one should I use? There's a considerable difference in the price from Paddock, but I've always believed that you get what you pay for, so the low price, while attractive, makes me a bit nervous. Please help! E-mail me at debrown@srp.gov and I'd be greatly appreciative!!! I'm very anxious to get "red rover" rolling again! So please let me know as soon as possible. I'd like to order first thing Tuesday. Thanks, Dave Brown. #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From UncleBrad@aol.com Sun Jul 2 01:14:12 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 01:14:12 -0400 From: UncleBrad@aol.com Subject: 109 for sale I have a friend with a '64 109 2-door with hatch. It runs pretty well, has newly done seats, body pretty straight, but needs paint and a few odds & ends. His name is Eric and his phone number is 510-827-1994 in California. He was asking $5000, but I'll bet you could make him an offer. From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 2 03:19:56 1993 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 03:19:56 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Gas I have a question. The RR owners manual ststes that one should not use low octane gas or oxygenated gas like gasahol. What does that do to the engine? Is this basically the same thread as before when everyone was talking about using unleaded gas in leaded cars? kgb ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From Mark Perry Sun Jul 2 03:22:50 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 03:22:50 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry Subject: rover turbos Lloyd Allison of Oz was looking for more info on Rover's turbo cars. He and other LROs should try to find The Rover Story: A Century of Success, by Graham Robson (Cambridge, Stephens, 1977) It has a good account of the hows and whys of the Rover turbos and some interesting pix of same. The chapter on Land Rovers tells the basic tale of the origins of LR and its place in the Rover organization, as well as the origins of the Range Rover.Interesting book for LROs to get an overview of the nature of the firm that produces their favorite 4x4 (at least as the firm was up until the era of B*****h L*****d.) Now I'm a bit puzzled about Stage 1 110's after recent posts. A fellow hereabouts has the only 110 in town, a 1983 2.25 diesel LHD two-door hardtop he says started life in France, then found its way to a farm here in Manitoba from whence he bought it. It has the horizontal louvre grille, not the squarish thing I've seen in pix of early 110s. Now would it be Stage 1, pre-stage 1, or post Stage 1? Regards, Mark Perry Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop (currently languishing in chassis shop for new springs, X-member, etc. "Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire." From Andy Dingley Sun Jul 02 13:20:38 1995 Date: Sun, 02 Jul 95 13:20:38 From: Andy Dingley Subject: diesels and brakes... > From: jhong@haiku.com (John Hong) > Re: the thread on diesels and braking - how feasible is the reverse - > instead of vacuum how about positive pressure? Don't the big trucks have a > compressor and storage tank for brakes Not really feasible I'm afraid. The problem is that large trucks have "air brakes" (brakes where air works the actuators on the wheels) and cars & LRs have "vacuum assisted hydraulic" brakes (where the gas pressure operates the servo booster under the bonnet, but the brakes themselves remain hydraulic). Small trucks use servo-hydraulics too, but these are a large servo unit mounted on the chassis (maybe 2'-3' long). If you could find an air pressure servo for a master cylinder, rather than a vacuum servo, this would be feasible. I believe such things have been made, but they're extremely rare in suitable sizes for LRs. -- Andy Dingley dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk And the Whale asked, "Do all oceans have walls ?" From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Sun Jul 2 09:35:17 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 95 09:35:17 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: Drag link ball joint The shop manual shows a special tool -- a cross between a clamp and a puller -- used to push the ball joints out. The only one I've done came out by hand when I removed the nut at the bottom of it. I guess various ingenious means of applying force can be devised -- sorry not to be more help Good luck John Brabyn 89 RR From jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Sun Jul 2 11:04:26 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 11:04:26 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: PO tales from the crypt (fuelishness) Well, just thought I'd post my latest discoveries on Mathilda's (IIA 109 SW) PO's mechanical endeavors for you amusement since the list is quiet again. In the process of working under the vehicle tracking down a coolant leak (turns out to be a shot seal in the water pump that was slowly leaking down the outside of the block to the oil pan -thanks to one and all for the advice) I noticed the following: The fuel line has been replaced (the original is cut but still in place). The replacement roughly parallels the original, BUT, (here comes the wierd part) it bypasses the original sediment bowl and mechanical pump, runs up to an aftermarket filter, across the top of the engine to the carburetor. The other part of this story is the PO said it wouldn't run because it needed a new carb. Pretty funny in a way. I assume you see the problem. The original wiring to the sender/gauge has also been replaced, although the original harness still runs through the frame. The tank breather tube no longer runs to the filler cap area and there doesn't seem to be a point to attach it at per the LR shop manual. I'll have to take a look at this and see if parts are needed. The current breather tube is lying on top of the tank open to the atmosphere beneath the rear of the vehicle not too far from the sender electrical connections. Doesn't seem to healthy :o . By the way I've noticed that in the Land Rover shop manual there appears to be an error in the technical drawings for the 2.25 liter fuel line. The drawings show the fuel line from the side tank going to a sediment bowl only and from there to the carburetor (although they are labeled as going from the sed. bowl to the pump no pump is shown.) The figures show only the isolated sed. bowl as used on the 6 cyl. model not the mechanical pump/sed bowl combination used on the 2.25 models. I wonder if the PO based his modification on this figure! As I traced the fuel line I also noticed an interesting jury rigged cotter pin replacement at the rear U-joint. No cotter pin, instead a nail was inserted and bent. Seems OK, but a little odd to look at the nut and see a nail head in there! Cheers, Jeremy P.S. If you don't get it there's no fuel pump anywhere in the current fuel line! No wonder it wouldn't run. P.P.S. I checked the oil and plugs in tracing the coolant leak all are fine. The radiator took 17.5 cups of water to fill it back up so its definitely time for a water pump rebuild. Definitely much easier to trace or notice leaks once the parts are clean! From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 02 95 Jul EDT 1919 Date: 02 Jul 95 19:01:53 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Reconditioned gearboxes. Dave Brown asks about reconditioned gearboxes in the UK. Caveat emptor.. Reconditioned is a word with a large range of meanings, aplied to the factory item it means that ALL wearing parts are replaced, applied to a $400 gearbox it means anyhting from "cleaned " to perhaps a few parts replaced. Using your own prices for parts how can anyone recondition a gearbox for less than the cost of parts. Your prices do not include , as a minimum the second / third gear bearing bush and circlip, layshaft bearings and gaskets etc. I have "repaired' scores of Land Rover gearboxes, ie replaced the minimum number of service parts and the broken / damaged gears , shafts and bearings, using where appropriate used gears and shafts for friends and members of the LR clubs to which I belonged. You also mention some of the gears are paired, I know of one "professional " gearbox repairer who advertises widely who has a large pile of used parts in the corner of the workshop which is the parts store from which gearboxes are "reconditioned" . It is not essential that worn gears are paired, after all what are a few extra decibels of gearbox noise in a Landy when you have cross ply tyres and a diesel engine. Another problem with your prices is quoted prices for reconditioned gearboxes are usually " exchange" so you would attract either extra shipping costs or an excess charge. Buy some used parts and do it yourself, at least you know what has gone in to it. Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. PS Happy holiday in the colonies, just think , in addition to the Land Rover you have the Brits to thank for an extra days holiday on Tuesday!! From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Sun Jul 02 16:17:26 1995 Date: Sun, 02 Jul 95 16:17:26 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: model land rovers For those of you who would like to start of with model Land Rovers in a gentle way then perhaps I can suggest any easy solution. P.G. Models of 3 St James Park Brackla, Bridgend, Mid Glamorgan CF31 2NP England puts out a number of military land Rovers in the N gauge. If you are wondering what scale that works out to it is 1 / 148th (UK). He has both a soft and hard top 3/4 ton S3 109 plus the 1/4 ton trailers to go with them. He also does a 3/4 ton ambulance which is series three I beleive. The Land Rovers were about 2pounds a piece or just under when I ordered over a year ago. Paul Gandy makes nice simple models. They are a complete vehicle less the wheels which you can put on with superglue. Including painting and assembly from out of the pack to made was about 12 minutes each! These models are made of resin and are not suitable for the little ones as they are barely 1/2 inch long when made. TTFN Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 2 20:47:21 1993 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 20:47:21 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Re: Gas >I'm a little surprised the V8 has trouble with poor fuel. It is quite Actually, the 3.95 V8 on my RR is running fine. It's just that I came across their recomendations, and I was wondering how I'd do damage to the truck by using cheap gas. So I will infer that as long as I don't hear knocking, then I have nothing to worry about. Thanks for the info. kgb ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Fri Jul 2 20:47:51 1993 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 20:47:51 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Re: Drag link ball joint Actually, not only can you use a puller on the drop arm, one can be used for the drop arm ball joint. As for the drag link ball joint, I misrepresented the situation... the drag link did come out with a mild tap of a medium hammer. It was the G&^%&^%* drop arm ball joint that wouldn't come un-done. I used a puller and believe-it-or-not rather than free the ball joint, it compressed that little hole the stay pin goes through! That's when I got pissed and used the sledge hammer. kgb 89RR ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Sun Jul 2 21:50:22 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 1995 21:50:22 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Subject: Destruction => Restoration o' da' Moose... First of all, thanks to all that replied regarding my Stage One query. I have now become thoroughly edumacated. This weekend I finally got to do some work on Moose, my 73 III 88. What I started with was a daily driver from Boston, shipped to florida. Although it runs strong, it has a cracked exhaust manifold and poor exhaust system. While the frame appeared weathered, after delivery it was downright scary. This weekend reinforced my beliefs.... After making arrangements with Jim Cartier of Seminole Rovers (Seminole FL (813 399-2961) for the replacement of the rear frame-half, Jim had the truck towed to his workshop so I could begin the strip down. BTW, He had four other landies in his shop at the time - 1 IIa 109 diesel (full restoration, I think), 1 IIa 88 used for hunting (complete with skinning table affixed to the rear crossmember) in for a suspension rebuild, 1 II 88 Daktari colored safari machine, no idea what was being done to it, and a III 88 for light engine work (electrical). He is terrific on price for parts, has lotz o' used stuff, and does great work. Anyway, a friend volunteered to help with the removal of the top, bed, seatbox, and gastank. It took us about three hours, and after everything but the gas tank was removed, the frame proceeded to break (literally) in half just behind the gastank outrigger, attempting to destroy my rear propshaft and what was left of the exhaust system in the process. Luckily it was caught in time and jacked up again for the time being. After careful appraisal of the situation, I found that not only did the frame work need to be done, but the rear springs were past the point of recovery, and the corrosion of the bed was bad enough to warrant replacement instead of repair. So, unwittingly, I find myself with a frame-off restoration on my hands, and need some advice. 1. Does the whole front end of the truck (wings, grill, etc.) have to be removed to take out the bulkhead? (I am going to put in a IIa bulkhead and trade the III bulkhead). 2. Does anyone have any inner wings (the piece of aluminum that seperates the wheelwell from the engine compartment) that they would part with? (Mark Talbot, might you?) 3. When rebuilding the hardtop, would it be easier to replace the side window channels or replace the whole assembly? 4. How do I get the 2- to 4- wheel drive push rod to lock down (the truck was used in the city, in two wheel drive, for god-knows-how-long. I can get it to engage 4-low range, but not 4-high, it won't lock down.) Any and all suggestions would be much appreciated...HELP! Thanks in advance from myself and Moose, steve swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu 73 III 88" "Moose" under destruction. From jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard) Sun Jul 2 21:59 1995 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 95 21:59 EDT From: jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard) Subject: Wanted. 88in Hardtop window Anyone got a starboard side window and frame for a 88" hardtop they would be willing to sell me? The PO took mine out to install cabinets in the back, and I want to take them out and be able to see out there. Thanks, James 67 MGB/GT 70 James Howard 72 Land Rover 88 72 MGB From Nckcharles@aol.com Mon Jul 3 01:06:42 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 01:06:42 -0400 From: Nckcharles@aol.com Subject: Re: #1Engine roaring Don't know if this will help, but if your engine is roaring (reving high) when you first start out each day this can do a fair amount of damage as oil has not been fully distributed to all the moving parts. I would check the engine idle sensor. I presume the LR has one. Nick From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 03 95 Jul EDT 1903 Date: 03 Jul 95 03:44:10 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Replies... misc. RE: SIIA Petrol to Diesel fantasies > diesel unit other than the LR 2.25 diesel into a SIIA without major > modifications? (Iveco 2.5l? GM? Nissan? LR TDi's?) The ideal would be A feasible conversion is the (italian) VM 4-cyl. turbodiesel that was used in earlier models RR diesels in Europe. French Peugeot diesel also fits (though the exhaust is on the 'wrong side'). GM, Nissan, even TDi are way to big for a IIA engine bay without major modifications. Perkins also fits, but beware of the (externally indistinguishable) marine or agricultural lumps, look for a modern high-revving automotive machine. Perkins also requires HD front springs, those things are *heavy*. The Iveco seems to stand a bit to high to me (bonnet wouldn't close), it might have to be lowered via the engine mounts, having the oil pan protuding dangerously low (offroad damage likely). Mercedes - not (for various reasons). ...ok, if you're willing to cut and weld and relocate and adapt etc. then almost anything fits , I've limited the scope to engines that will more or less 'drop in'. > P.S. This isn't too tayloresque is it? Hardly - practice some more. ---------------------------------------------------- RE: Michelin 7.50R16 XZY > 1. How many miles/km's can I expect to get on a set * YMMV * But generally all Michelins are very long-lasting. This particular one is made of an extremely hard compound and has (I think) 9 PR. The XZY usually has to be discarded not because of tread wear, but because of the sidewalls cracking due to old age. On tarmac, on a LR, mileages of 200,000 km are not uncommon. > 2. How does these tyres affect fuel consumption Improves noticeably > 3. What does the thread pattern look like A big, very high Z-type pattern with a rugged track-edge = / / / / / / / / = = \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ = = / / / / / / / / = = \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ = = / / / / / / / / = = \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ = = / / / / / / / / = > 4. How do they perform on: > a: Rocks < good, but bumpy and uncomfortable > b: Sand < Not good > c: Mud < Very good > d: Tar (Noise ???) < Very hard ride, a bit noisy > Is it worth paying R900 (US$250)/tyre as opposed to R400 > (US$120)/tyre for the normal set. If you habitually drive long distances on tarmac and don't need ride comfort they'll probably pay off. These are *truck* tyres. --------------------------------------- RE: Billing > I will be there at the end of my England/Scotland holiday and need to > know how much wine we need. Please answer in the next three or four days > because I start on thursday evening. ...to get wine from *Scotland* ?? -------------------------------------------------------- RE: Urgent: Help with Clutch. Peter Aslan was unhappy with his clutch: > ... and pull the gearbox back 5 inches to get at, and remove the > clutch. Anyone tried this ?? Anything to watch out for ?? Well possible to do it this way. Yes, we tried it (successfully). And watch out nothing big falls on your head or in your face. > I'm concerned that once I unbolt the transmission, the engine will tip > forwards or backwards, ts only got two mounts. ... ... It will tip backwards... but if the engine mounts are in good shape they'll still support the engine weight (i.e. it won't drop on the driveway), and if we're talking about a 'Series' vehicle there should be a chassis crossmember *just about* underneath the rim of the flywheel housing. Wedge a block of wood between housing and crossmember before letting things come undone, and the engine should stay in place - additionally support it with a hydraulic jack under the engine (but don't do it like the jerk I know who punched a hole into his oil pan) > ... And do I need to unbolt > the gearbox mounts to pull it back ?? Why, sure... and the propshafts have to come out as well. And disconnect the hand brake linkage. And this little gearbox-to-chassis rod (in case it isn't already missing...) Oh yes, and I almost forgot: If you have an Overdrive installed you might encounter additional problems moving the thing out of the way... Enjoy! Stefan From Peter Aslan Mon Jul 3 09:38:00 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 09:38:00 +0100 (BST) From: Peter Aslan Subject: Re: Urgent Help with Clutch, part 1. The story as it unfolds.. You may recall the Clutch Slip, predominately when the engine was hot, the limited travel of the clutch pedle. the preliminart Diagnosis, that one or more springs had broken, preventing the clutch from seperating completely, and reducing the presure on the friction plate causing slip. the Plan: Try seperating the Engine and Gbox without removing the Gbox completely, jut rolling it back on a trolly jack under the thing. The manual states you can remove the clutch by seperating the Engine and Gbox by 5 inches. So, to the plot: Remove as follows: 1. Front floor pannels. 2. Gbox tunnel. 3. Flywheel cover. Now to support the Engine at the rear, to allow the Gbox to be removed. Jackup Engine, problem here in that where do you put the jack, in the end I used a large piece of wood under the sump, when lifting the whole LR moved upwards, no decernable increase in the gap between the flywheel housing and crossmember, cant get my recommended 1 inch piece of wood between. So I use a smaller wedged piece of wood instead. Note, when you start to jackup the Gbox, this gap opens up fine. Next the Prop Shafts, Front at the Gbox end, rear at the diff end, (easier to get to). Are these things supposed to go back Exactly as they were removed ?? Undo the Handbrake arm from the rod out of the drum, disconnect the Earthing Strap to the Chassis. Remove the Bolts from the Gbox mounts. Jack up the Gearbox, comes up fine, problem in supporting it though, as the thing is such a weard shape and where is the balance point ?? Bits o wood and stuff later, and I'm undoing the Bell housing from the Flywheel cover, some nuts come off, some remove the studs. In retrospect, the next part would have been easier if all the studs had some out. With the Engine/Gbox disconnected, I 'jiggled' the Gbox back about an inch, then through judicial use of a crowbar, in the true tradition of the LandRover, managed to part the two items by about 4-5 Inches. the manual says 5 Inches is enough, Bollocks. Then a lot of struggling underneath to no avail, try a jack between Gbox and crossmember, something sticking, but what ? Cant see anything under here. Later, Sainaty set in and I removed the Seat Base, the thing I was trying to avoid. The Gbox could not move back because it was fouling the Handbreak bracket on the Left, and the Exaust Pipe on the Right. Anyhow, by jacking up the thing and Jiggling it somemore, I managed to achieve seperation, enough to get at the bolts securing the clutch to flywheel, blody locking washers though, and with the gbox there, verry tight. The friction plate fell out, and looks fine, loads-o-meat. Havent looked at the Clutch machenism yet, but am now suspicious of the release stuff. Stay posted for art 2. Regards, Peter Aslan (aka Captain Norton). Louden Quill Award. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- McDonnell Information Systems Boundary Way Hemel Hempstead Voice: 01442 273324 Hertfordshire HP2 7HU Fax: 01442 244896 ENGLAND Mail: paslan@uk.mdis.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From "Steve Methley" Mon Jul 3 10:28:10 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 10:28:10 +0100 From: "Steve Methley" Subject: Re: Rangie fuel pumps Andy Dingley asks: >What's a good pump for a Rangie ? Is a Solid State big enough, or >should I go for a Silver Top ? The standard pump is excellent. Clean the filter and maybe replace the sealing rubber, but stick with it. You want flow rather than pressure if you see what I mean since the carbs require only 3psi and you have a recirculating system. Too much pressure will flood the carbs especially if they are old. If it's not broken I'd say don't fix it. Cheers' Steve. From Andrew Grafton Mon Jul 3 12:47:32 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 12:47:32 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Loose steering thread > they describe. The only addition I could make is: Substitute the words > "medium hammer" with "the biggest hammer you can lift." I eventually used > a small sledge hammer (ie. a one-handed sledge hammer) I don't consider > that 'medium'. Anyway, the steering is "show room new." I am very > pleased. I thought that a 'medium' hammer was a two-handed sledge, and that a 'large' was when you used the Landrover as the hammer, as per steering relay removal? 8-) Congrats. on the steering, tho' All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From Andrew Grafton Mon Jul 3 12:50:25 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 12:50:25 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Dual circ brakes (fao Alan Richer) Sorry about this - I need to get this to Alan Richer and the direct route keeps bouncing my mail. On our '82 SIII 109" diesel, the dual ciruit brakes are split front and rear. That's all, folks! All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From Andrew Grafton Mon Jul 3 13:28:08 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 13:28:08 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: MOT test blues Can anyone suggest what to do about this? Put our Diesel 109" (1982) through the MOT test and it failed only on 'excessive smoke' and two minor things I have fixed. The smoke test consisted of 6 foot-to-the-floor rev tests with a smokemeter up the tailpipe. Now I'm not suggesting a connection, but the engine threw a ring off 25 miles further down the road. We've rebuilt the engine - rebore, o/s pistons, new journals, valves reground etc. etc. I can't run in the car properly because it hasn't got an MOT or tax. I can't get an MOT because if they floor the throttle it will (probably) bugger the engine. It won't pass the MOT anyway until the rings bed in and it stops smokin' There is a limit to the number of miles I can do on private land, and anyhow I have to get there... Went to visit the Police who said that they cannot/will not help as it is illegal to have the car on the road without an MOT or tax, unless I am on my way to a booked MOT test. I asked if I could get an MOT test booked 300 miles away but they said I would get the book thrown at me if I got caught trying that one on. Apparently it is illegal to be on the road without tax even if on the way to an MOT. Rang the Dept. of Transport who said that there are *NO EXCEPTIONS* and I would have to find a way around it. They were really unhelpful. Added to all this I have an MOT failure sheet which only failed me on windcreen wipers, the steering damper and excessive smoke. Aaargh! Anyone suggest an alternative to doing a couple of hundred (or more) miles around the University Campus and/or an airfield? Anyone know of someone in the Midlands (pref. Nottingham/Leicester area) who will miss off the smoke test bit of the MOT? N.B. the car is '82 and officially needs to pass the abovementioned test. Any other ideas who I can talk to about this? It is things like this that will make an honest citizen like me (!?) go out and break the Law for a few weeks. Yours fretfully, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Mon Jul 03 09:05:16 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 09:05:16 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Oxygenated Gasoline Friends, Seems like using the wrong fuel is a warranty voider in the LRNA paperwork that comes with a new vehicle, including the so-called oxygenated fuels that the Feds have forced into certain areas (including metro D.C.) during winter months. **Is this true?** Tend to agree that as long as there's no pinging, no mechanical harm's done (maybe accelerated corrosion in fuel system?). Just don't let a lawyer know you buy gas in a Greenpeace zone, I guess. I'm surprised that I haven't noticed the oxyfuel thread (this is not leaded vs unleaded) before now, or is it that few of read the new vehicle paperwork because of the incomparable confidence the L-R inspires? Maybe Al Gore will provide guaranteed health care for those Rovers forced to drink this government-required swill. "Hank E. Panky" 1960 Ser II 109 SWD 1995 Discovery 5-sp 8i From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Mon Jul 03 09:12:19 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 09:12:19 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: 1/76 scale models Modelers, Talk about synchronomy....Friday the mail came from APC Hobbies in VA. JB Models kits no 1001 and 1003 are LWB Land-Rovers (injected plastic, 1/76) at $6.75 each. Call (804)973-2705, Visa, MC, Disc. You can also subscribe to APC's old kit list, which features out-of-production models. I've seen various L-R kits listed regularly. Happy hunting, Hank From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Mon Jul 03 09:41:32 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 09:41:32 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Old Meets New - Got the Disco All, Got the call at work Friday -- "Would you like your Discovery for the 4th of July?" It was home later that night, keeping company with my 60 Ser II safari 109. Gearbox seemed a tad stiff going into third at first, but seemed much better, normal in fact, shortly. I carefully put 100 restrained "city/backroad miles" on the engine and did first oil change. (I plan on doing 5 before the first trip to the dealer at 7500. Sure I'm paranoid about break-in, but we intend to keep this car a long time!) Have noticed that the engine compartment, bonnet, and latch seem to get unexpectedly h-o-t HOT to the touch in short order, even on 80-degree day with AC on low blower. Is this normal? Is that engine wax I smell cooking off when I get out of the car? I put a pair of flyer's nomex gloves in the glove box, though. It seems they *will* come in handy. Ordered (and started receiving) the add-on goodies from Rovers North, whose prices on these items are less than list, at least through July 31. Also, the shipping charges will be less than the sales tax I would've had to pay if I had gotten them from the dealer. Reason to :-) ! To prospective owners: this vehicle feels SOLID from the driver's seat, and is very nimble to boot. All second thoughts and possible doubts will quickly evaporate upon consumation. A pure pleasure to drive, but I will never give up my metal dash panel! So now it's "H.M.S. Warrior" and "the wifemobile" in the yard. I'll assume that it's OK to actually *wash* the latter on a regular basis. Getting seat covers 'cause I have kids, Hank From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 2 95 Jul EDT 1923 Date: 2 Jul 95 23:05:29 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Copper Head gaskets: Sealer or no? The subject says it all...do you use sealer on a head gasket? Instinct says no, but I've learned not to trust my instincts on this beast... Secondarily, when one is fitting a rear main seal and rear main bearings, one runs up against 2 L-shaped fiber insert gaskets on the sides of the main bearing cap. Both are the same, yes? If this is the case, Atlantic British owes me a new seal, NOW..... I HATE mailorder.....but I guess this is one of the charms of owning an elderly British tank...8*)... ajr From rdmoritz@ix.netcom.com (Richard Moritz) Mon Jul 3 09:54:32 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 09:54:32 -0700 From: rdmoritz@ix.netcom.com (Richard Moritz) Subject: Re: Gas (Oxygenated Fuels) I have a question. >The RR owners manual ststes that one should not use low octane gas or >oxygenated gas like gasahol. What does that do to the engine? Is [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >using >unleaded gas in leaded cars? My '74 88's gas tank sprang a major leak a couple years ago. It was total, insofar as it filled the garage, and sudden, insofar as there was no leak, than the entire thing burst a week I was out of town. Full tank as well. It appeared that the gasket (rubber?) between the pressed joints on both sides of the tank had degraded. I bought a new gas tank, and got the impression from the salesperson that gas tank failure frequency was on the rise. Could be simply age related, but I keep remembering all of the LR literature regarding natural rubber parts and always wondered whether or not the 10% ethanol might have contributed to the problem. I seem to remember similar concerns for rubber (non-metal) components in U.S. manufactured vehicles. It's hard to avoid some ethanol concentration in gasoline these days, and to date the new gas tank is O.K. RD in Houston From paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Mon Jul 03 08:07:10 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 1995 08:07:10 +1000 From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Subject: steering relay bolt sizes I've just started giving my new series III a thorough once-over, and found that one of the steering relay bolts (the little ones that you remove to refill it with oil) is missing. I'm not keen to drive with another one out, so rather than taking one of its siblings to a nut- and-bolt shoppe to find a mate, I'm trying to find what size it is supposed to be. I assume imperial rather than metric, and a first guess would be 3/16 UNC by 1/2 inch. Any definitive answers? -- Paul Nash turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy 14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA From srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Mon Jul 3 14:21:10 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 14:21:10 -0600 From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Subject: 89 Rangerover Overheating??? My 89 Rangerover seems to be running hot, or so the temperature gage says. Should I believe it? For months, ever since I bought it, the temperature gauge has been riding about 1/4 up the scale from cold. Suddenly, going up a long grade it started to climb, and it got to 2/3-3/4 scale. It cooled off going down hill, but it's been acting up ever since. Sometimes I start it up and within minutes its at 2/3 scale, sometimes it never exceeds 1/4. Sometimes it switches back and forth during a longer drive (albeit rather slowly -- within 5-10 miles). For the last few days it has stayed at 2/3-3/4 scale after a reasonable warm-up period. The engine coolant level is always fine, no overflow, and the thing doesn't seem excessively hot when I open up the hood. Questions, --- Has anyone experienced this sort of thing? --- Is the temperature sensor the guy living in the thermostat housing? Is there only one? I un plugged it and the temperature gage was apparently unaffected (or it has a great memory). --- The temperature sensor appears to be a thermistor or poteniometer, if you like, what resistances should it be reading at, say cold? --- What is the standard thermostat temperature range for this vehicle? Could it be sticking closed? --- In an aluminum block engine is it likely that junk could be clogging the radior part of the time? If so where would said junk come from? By the way, there is an "odd" stubbed-off (unused) wire with a red plastic plug in the end of a connector in the wiring harness near the place where the presumed temperature sensor wires disappear into the spaghetti near the radiator filler. That wire had rubbed through the insulation of itself and one of the temperature sensor (?) wires, apparently shorting them together. Any clues as to what this wire is for and what the consequences of that mishap might be? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ /==============\ | `63 | IIa | Stephen Brown |______|_______| Geomechanics Department, MS-0751 /___/^^^^^^\___\9 Sandia National Laboratories |oo|(@)##(@)|oo| Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185 | | [####] | | ======%%%%====== email: srbrown@sandia.gov {*}={&&}====={*} {*} {*} RockNet: http://sair019.energylan.sandia.gov:70 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From Sanna@aol.com Mon Jul 3 19:54:47 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 19:54:47 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Steering That Goes Bump in the Night Bump in the daylight too! The front end of my '89 RR just started to decompensate. It began with a slight clunk during braking and a squeek in the front end. Then the steering started to pulsate during turns, a little, but not exactly, like wheel-hop on hard pavement with the dif-lock on. Now it's rythmically clunking (thwap, thwap, thwap...) during turns, like something is loose and hitting the frame or body. It sounds serious. Any ideas out there? Nothing seems loose on casual inspection. The tie rod ends are a little worn, but not excessively so. Tony - From Russell Burns Mon Jul 3 18:29:34 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 18:29:34 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: Steering That Goes Bump in the Night Try the pan hard rod. Any play sounds terrible. I shimmed with beer cans for 20K miles.... Russ Burns 91 R-Rover 94 D-90 > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] > ideas out there? Nothing seems loose on casual inspection. The tie rod ends > are a little worn, but not excessively so. > Tony From jpappa01@InterServ.Com (Jim Pappas) Mon Jul 3 20:01:47 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 95 20:01:47 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com (Jim Pappas) Subject: Re: Misc. Just back from Owl's Head. The best yet. Various counts were made, but concensus was on the order of 112 Land Rovers!!! Wow. Off Road on Sat. was very well attended (except that I was stuck in the 95N parking lot and missed it!) with over 40 vehicles there! Some really nicely restored Series landies were on hand including an immaculate 4-sale ($27K!!) NADA 6-cyl 109. Coupla Dormobiles, a Defender 130 (!) Plenty of Discos compared with only a couple last year - and a good bunch of D90's. Only a single D110. Picking up where I left off on the D90 posting yesterday - the D90 *Station Wagon* will (at least as far as I know) be basically a D110 treatment with wind up windows, metal top, four rear jumps, and an external cage ala D110! Not confirmed though. Nor any info on pricing or color choice - if any choices. I'll keep you posted. cheerz Jim From gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Mon Jul 3 22:34:58 1995 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 22:34:58 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: diesels and brakes... Andy Dingley wrote, regarding John Hong's notion of air-boosted brakes: >If you could find an air pressure servo for a master cylinder, rather >than a vacuum servo, this would be feasible. I believe such things have >been made, but they're extremely rare in suitable sizes for LRs. All the larger army trucks (e.g. deuce-and-a-halfs), when I was in the Army, had air-over-hydraulic brakes. So there must have been plenty of them made. One of the features of this system, as I recall, is to make instant connection for trailer brakes upon hooking up an air line coupling to the trailer. Cheers, Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA (707)485-7220 (home) (707)463-4265 (work) Land-Rover Series III 88", more Land-Rovers, Austin Champ Military 4x4... From Mark Perry Tue Jul 4 02:15:09 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 02:15:09 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry Subject: sightings First sighting is to concur with fate of D90 sales in Canada. The local BMW purveyor here became the Land Rover rep last year. The Discos started appearing around town, and I gather they have moved a couple or three RRs, but the sole D90 I saw on the premises, sat, and sat. Last time I rolled past it wasn't in sight, so who knows. Of course, this being Winnipeg, people are going to wait for the used ones to show up, or find out who's got a cousin who can get it for them wholesale. The fate of D90 does bear out what one Canadian new car guide book said dismissively about the D90; great off-road vehicle, but too basic and too expensive to be anything but a rich man's plaything. Last advertised price I saw here was CDN$34,800. Of course, back before '74, the Series machines were not big sellers hereabouts, either. Poor marketing (then), the dominance of the U.S. and the auto pact, followed by the Japanese ascendancy, thwarted whatever opportunity might have existed for the LR to prove what an ideal utility it could have been in this country: To wit; a gent admiring my IIA one day said he'd worked on a remote northern hydro project, where they'd used an assortment of 4x4s including a couple of LRs. When the project was done the, clapped-out vehicles were abandoned at the site, except, he noted, the Land Rovers. Second sighting: Did I miss this before, or did anyone spot (about four frames of it) a stretch-limo Range Rover in Dumb and Dumber. (Or am I the only LRO who'd admit to watching the movie?) It's passed in the shot where the two dumb guys ride into Aspen, Colo., on their mini-bike. Incidentally, a SERII 109 SW turned up in a scene in the Dutch movie Spetters which was on cable (Showcase) the other night. BTW, when I dropped in once at above-mentioned LR dealer, and asked in a friendly way about parts or service support for Series-type vehicles, they acted as if I had landed from Mars. I think the salesmen might have even feared my IIA out front was scaring off trade. I loitered in the showroom for a few minutes and not one of the buggers even came over to ask if wanted to buy a Disco or something. If they'd even tried, if would have been nice; if they'd tried real hard, I might have even taken that D90 for a test ride. From Lloyd Allison Tue Jul 4 17:43:10 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 17:43:10 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: stage-1 Mark Perry was asking about the Stage-1. This is really a S3A. It is a 109 LWB only and LT95 4spd full-time-4WD range rover transmission, 3.54:1 diffs, drum-brakes, plastic-coated wire-mesh grille, and .... leaf springs. The grille is flush with the front. Stage-1 refers to stage 1 of an investment plan and stage-2 was the 110, later defender. The early 110s had either . V8, 4spd, as for stage-1 or . 2.25 petrol and diesel, 5spd with either . full-time 4wd . part-time 4wd as options (I think) . horizontal slat grille, pretty much as now Lloyd ta for the book ref' From Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Tue Jul 4 08:31:24 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 08:31:24 +0200 (MET DST) From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Subject: got my new baby! Hi all, yesterday I got my first Land Rover. So maybe I'm the youngest LRO here on the list ;-). The guy selling the exmilitary 110 of which I told you some weeks ago, went down with the price and I finally bought it. I drove some kilometers yesterday, just from one end of the town to the other were I live and I already love it. It seems that I wont get that jealous_spoose_problem . My girlfriend likes driving it, too. But I have some things I'm a little worried about: -I am desperately seeking a name for the beast (so far I only know it's male ;-) -The wiper is relatively loud. It gives a loud clack when the blades start wiping in the other direction (sorry for the bad English). -Is it normal that you have to nearly smash the doors or are they maladjusted? -For the German list members only: I need a good (read: cheap) insurance for trucks (LKW!). Any hints? -Where can I get a center seat? I have those white-grey-black Defender seats with neck rests in there and would like to insert one in the middle, too. The guy I bought the car from told me, he mailordered the seats from the UK and paid 80DM (~57 US$) just for shipping. Can I mount the seatbelt for the center seat at the already existing seatbelt mountings? I hope I can sell my old car and get the Landy licenced! Thanks Franz --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de exmil. 110 2.5D --------------------------------------------------------------- From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Tue Jul 4 18:02:14 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 18:02:14 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: stage-1's Lloyd writes: (snip) > (hardtop, ute, station wagon, high-cap ute) with the 3.5L V8 > and LT95 4spd full-time-4WD range rover transmission, 3.54:1 diffs, This raises a question, does anyone know if 4.7 diffs and 0.996 transfers were ever fitted factory (OZ) to stage-1's. Why do I ask?? well this is how my stage-1 is set up. I know of two others, one the same month as mine (12/82), with the same "deluxe" trim. (ie highback cloth buckets etc, only heard about the other from a mechanic/parts supplier) The front 4.7 diff is of the late (r) type, has two threaded down facing holes on the flat below the pinion much like 110/rangie and appears to be appropriate to the era. The front diff does not have cv joints but standard sIII universals, dont know if the housings will accept the CV or not. While I happily accept the possibility of a PO making cost saving repairs the existance of at least one other near identical vehicle set up the same makes me wonder..... Awfull expensive cost saver too, two new diffs and modified ransfer... Any thoughts? cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Tue Jul 4 18:04:53 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 18:04:53 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: got my new baby! Franz writes: > But I have some things I'm a little worried about: > -I am desperately seeking a name for the beast (so far I only know > it's male ;-) Funny how ALL 110's are male isnt it.:-) -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu Tue Jul 04 02:29:33 1995 Date: Tue, 04 Jul 1995 02:29:33 PST From: chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu Subject: Help with new car trouble. * engine halt while on slope * Dear LRO, I have a question about the new Range Rover which I purchased on 6/30/95. What happened was when the car was on the hill and whether or not my foot is on the gas paddle or the break the engine sometimes would just die. I tried to let the car roll backward while the gear is still in Drive mode, the engine would just stop running every time when I do that. Other than this problem, the car seems to be running fine on the flat road surface. Since this is a long weekend, fourth of July, I would have to wait until Wednesday to get the car back to the dealer for repair. My question is: if this is a major problem for a new car, what is the best thing I can do to fix this problem? Also, is it possible for me to talk to the dealers in exchange for a new car? If you have any suggestions or comments please let me know about it via E-mail. chi@dhvx20.csudh.edu Thank you very much for your help! Denny From mtzphil@vax.ccc.nottingham.ac.uk Tue Jul 04 10:38:42 1995 Date: Tue, 04 Jul 1995 10:38:42 BST From: mtzphil@vax.ccc.nottingham.ac.uk Subject: Steering that goes bump in the night Tony - Could be the front driveshaft CV joint. This produces a marked knocking sound on turning corners when its on the way out. Replacement is easy and relatively cheap - covered in an article in a recent edition of LRO. Phil Taylor (73 lt/wt, 90 disco V8) From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 04 95 Jul EDT 1909 Date: 04 Jul 95 09:29:14 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Steering That Goes Bump... > the front end. Then the steering started to pulsate during turns, a little, > but not exactly, like wheel-hop on hard pavement with the dif-lock on. Now > it's rythmically clunking (thwap, thwap, thwap...) during turns, like HAVE YOU CHECKED THE WHEEL LUGNUTS? If one or more of them are loose, or torque is uneven, it can produce exactly such symptoms. Other candidates (in the order of likelyhood): Suspension bushings (radius arms, panhard rod), tie rod ends (loose, worn), front constant velocity joint(s) breaking up (e.g. due to lack of oil in the swivel pin housing), front diff acting up, front hub bearing(s). Let's hope it's just a loose lugnut (though this would be the most dangerous situation... hello... are you still there?) Stefan From Dixon Kenner Tue Jul 4 09:41:09 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 09:41:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Misc. On Mon, 3 Jul 1995, Jim Pappas wrote: > Just back from Owl's Head. The best yet. Various counts were made, but > concensus was on the order of 112 Land Rovers!!! Wow. A count just before noon came up with 102 vehicles (yes, more arrived later, though some left. at about 2pm it was at 107, but here is the noon count). Saw a number of the LRO@team.net placards on various land rovers. Counted at least ten list members at the Rally (You, Bill Maloney, Steve Denis, T. Dolan, Mike Loiodice, Spencer Norcross, Ben Smith (who now has to drive back to California after driving to the OVLR Birthday Party), Trevor Easton etc... (Roger, you could have been there... :-)) 80" = 1 107 = 1 II/IIA 88 = 38 " 109 = 11 III 88 = 17 " 109 = 1 D90 = 4 D110 = 1 RR lwb = 12 " 4SE = 3 Disco = 9 Rover car = 1 (P5?) Others = 4 (hybrids) 109 Stage 1 = 1 (created, not orig one) A lot of credit has to go to Myles Murphy who started this rally and continues to organise it and keep it growing and being the excellent showing that it was. > Off Road on Sat. was very well attended (except that I was stuck in the 95N > parking lot and missed it!) with over 40 vehicles there! Was a lot of fun. 54 vehicles were at the event hosted by the East Coast Rover Co. They created a light off-road course that tended towards a medium as the tracks got churned up by some vehicles with a small pond at the end to was the vehivle up. (The drop into the pond was rather steep and only the 80" and a 88" with lockers were able to get up it) ECR put on a rather nice lunch for those there that had sent Myles the pre-registration form or had called. As per being stuck on 95N, it is a holiday weekend Jim! It should be a parking lot. Next year go straight north and come at Camden from the west or north. Zero traffic coming in down 17 through Augusta. 100+ kph most of the way. The Ottawa -> Camden run was 805km and took nine hours (in a SAAB. Had to work Friday & I arrived at 6am as it was Sat am.) > Some really nicely restored Series landies were on hand including an > immaculate 4-sale ($27K!!) NADA 6-cyl 109. Coupla Dormobiles, a Defender > 130 (!) Plenty of Discos compared with only a couple last year - and a > good bunch of D90's. Only a single D110. That much for the NADA? Didn't ask. Was in pretty good shape. What mine shoiuld look like, but probably never will. (The beauty marks on mine are far too useful commuting to work. Keeps people far away. Never been cut off yet.. :-)) Two dormobiles plus Herbert Zimkin's customised 109 that went across Africa and Europe in the early 1960's. > Not confirmed though. Nor any info on pricing or color choice - if any > choices. I'll keep you posted. No TDi? Is EPA approved as I understand... Rgds, Dixon From "S.W.Brierley" Tue Jul 4 14:52:51 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 14:52:51 +0100 From: "S.W.Brierley" Subject: The road to Recovery (is damn long) Hi Fellow owners/enthusiasts, Here is my tale of woe, which is still not concluded even now. It is the story of 'Emma'-its short for Haemorrhoid, this is because they are both a pain in the ass. "Emma" is my 1976 SWB Ser III, sporting a unwell V8. A while back she killed her water pump, which wasn't too bad except that the new one had to be modified so as to get it to fit under the bonnet( the shaft fouls on the radiator if left standard), much messing about got the pump modified. After the pump, there was the overheating, this is what had killed the pump, because the head gaskets were leaking compression in to the water system, blowing the front seal on the pump. So the head gaskets were done by myself. Ahhhh now we are getting there..... NO. I think i will replace the Stromberg carbs with some lovely reconditioned SU's. So this was duly done..... Now the damn thing wont run on all 8 cylinders due to some form of electrical problem. So to summarize, the pump was replaced as neccesity, the radiator was uprated to improved cooling version by choice, the Carbs were by choice( wanted more ooooomph), the head gaskets were necessity, and the plugs and HT leads were by choice..... and its still not running yet!!!!!!!. Its seen the local LR parts supplier, the local LR "expert", the local Carb reconditioning place, and now the local garage (where the MOT gets done). All fitting and modifying was done by myself, so maybe thats the problem, i should stop being tightfisted and pay for future work. Oh well.... But, I AM NOT GETTING RID OF IT, contrary to popular "advice". I will keep you guys updated. STU. From Dixon Kenner Tue Jul 4 10:06:21 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 10:06:21 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Defender in ca On Fri, 30 Jun 1995, Gowyn Wilcox wrote: > Sorry to bore you all, but this is mainly a colonial question. Does anyone > know why the D90 will no longer be sold in Canada? I was planning on > looking into one in a couple of years, but now what. And what about buying > stateside? Also for any of you LRNA types, why is a real work horse only > sold at high end, snobby, full of themselves BMW, Jag dealerships? They are not selling very well in Canada. The current config is perfect for the rich California market but is a disaster for the general Canadian market were the TDi stripper would sell a lot faster. Like, a soft top with our winters? Get real Solihull... However, the marketing types (the first up against the wall when the revolution comes...) have decided that we are not going to get a stripper over here at this time. LR wants the top end of the market. At times, I seriously doubt that LR even wants to sell any D90's over here. They are interested in selling Disco's and Range Rovers. They had to offer the D90, especially with their advertising that shows how long Land Rovers (opps, read the new marketing dribble from the UK. There was never any Series Vehicles! They were Defender 80"'s, Defender fire tenders (built in the mid 1950's on 107 chassis), Defender this & Defender that! Amazing...) I have talked with the Managing DIrector at Land Rover Canada about this. He says he tried to get a stripper over here (TDi, hard top, no roll bars, steel wheels etc) but Solihull wouldn't bite (and probably neither would LRNA who ultimately controls LRCanada (Dumb. Volvo tried this subsidiary approach for years and it failed miserably. Now Volvo Canada reports to Sweden. Canada & the USA are very different markets once the yuppie scum (which is the same everywhere) is excised... They will eventually see this, though LR is run by marketing-types now. No longer does the engineer rule there (You must also remember that "LR" or Rover Group is just a name change from our most favourite Br*t*sh L**l*nd corp, the epitome of quality and labour harmony). I need a coffee... > While I'm at it, I've heard several not so flattering comments about the > D90, I'm just wondering if these are true or not, Not sure if it is safe to discuss this one yet... :-) From "Tom Rowe" Tue Jul 4 09:12:06 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 09:12:06 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: diesel conversion Someone was asking about diesel conversion, I don't know who, I just saw a reply today. If you're considering a Perkins 4203 and want some info, I've done some and will be glad to share my experiences with you. You can e-mail me directly if you want. Tom Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From Dixon Kenner Tue Jul 4 10:12:27 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 10:12:27 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: What to do, what to do... On Fri, 30 Jun 1995, Alexander P. Grice wrote: > I was up there a month ago, and I can assure all those attending the > Mid-Atlantic Rally that the mud pit Mike built IS GOING TO SNARE VEHICLES! > Last fall, it had been dry for months, so the mud was minimal. A month ago, > it was a boot-sucking quagmire, and after this week's floods, *I challenge > you* to get through it! Piffle... Getting through is easy. Drive in. If you get stuck, winch your way through. Why else have a Koneig on the front? If you don't have a winch & you drive in... This like earth or is it clay? Any bottom to it? From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Tue Jul 4 08:02:56 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 95 08:02:56 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: Def 90 Station Wagon Followup on the NAS D90 HARDTOP Station Wagon. There will be a total of 540 of these produced; commencing with September production - running until the end of the year. These will be allocated into spring of 1996 as 1995 models. Again, there will be NO *1996* Defender 90 of any type. I am making an assumption that, as with the NAS Defender 110, these 540 units will largely be presold. I still have not seen a photo of one, however I have been told that an exterior cage such as the Safety Devices unit on the D110 will be standard along with a fully finished interior and the traditional four folding jumpseats for a seating capacity of six. I know nothing of pricing and/or color(s) at this time but will post as soon as I do. And, as many attending Owl's Head found out, the TDi HAS been certified for NAS, *BUT* I have heard *NOTHING* about any imminent plans to offer it - at least in the US. cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! From Mike Rooth Tue Jul 4 15:58:45 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 95 15:58:45 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Defender in ca Chance my arm here.......... Comments on the 90,unfavourable thereof.Just this last week, an undergrad at this university appeared in a naturally aspirated 2.5 (I assume) 90.I also assume,having been in the situation myself,that his parents had said something like"If you think I'm fetching all *that* junk home,you can think again,sunshine,heres a company Land Rover,go and bring it back yourself,and if it wont fit,tough". The Rover was nine years old,and a company vehicle, judging by the signwriting on the hardtop sides. The rear X member/chassis joint had already had some *very* messy welding done to it,and I would be getting somewhat worried about the state of the chassis generally had it been mine(I wish!).The bodywork was dinged,mudflaps missing,lamps broken etc,but after all,it *was* a working vehicle,so you cant hold that against it. The engine sounded healthy enough,and didnt smoke,although the kid stalled it repeatedly,and couldnt park it very well, so hadnt done many hours on the type.The interior looked fairly tidy,so had stood up to the hammer quite well.No visible oil leaks. So draw what conclusions you may from those observations.If any. Cheers Mike Rooth From kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Sun Jul 4 10:56:48 1993 Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1993 10:56:48 -0500 From: kgb@uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Re: Steering going bump Based by your computer typed description of those 89 RR sounds, they sound like something I may have experience with. Let me recount a story... (OK a short one!) Shortly after I first purchased the car, it would make a rubbing noise when I'd turn. I thought something was up, but my friend Andy (he knows all) told me it was nothing to worry about. Well conveniently as I was driving to visit Andy, there was a loud clunk, no it was a clank, anyway after that whenever I'd turn the wheels, there'd be a crunching type noise. Aparently the inner seals of the CV joint leaked and there was no oil in the CV joint. The CV joint was broken and needed replacing. Since I was at Andy's, we just put the car up on stilts, took off the wheel and took out the axle and CV joint. I drove a RWD RR for a couple of weeks until we put the new CV in. I strongly suspect this may be your problem. kgb 89 RR P.S. Funny how only 89 RR's are having problems. Hmmmm... ********************************************************* Reachable at E-mail: kgb@uic.edu WWW: http://www.uic.edu/~kgb/ <- Whoa! I'm on the web ********************************************************* From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Mon Jul 03 21:43:49 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 21:43:49 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: oem rebuilt parts Land Rover in the UK has a rebuild program on major items such as trannies ?gearboexes engines etc. Does anyone have any experience and price comments? rgds Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From jcfltee@CAM.ORG (Christian Tassé) Tue Jul 4 16:33:23 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 16:33:23 -0400 From: jcfltee@CAM.ORG (Christian Tassé) Subject: YAKIMA RACKS Hi, Does anyone have the address and phone number for the YAKIMA manufacturer. Thank you. Christian tasse Discovery 1995 From "gshroder" Tue Jul 4 22:45:30 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 22:45:30 +0000 From: "gshroder" Subject: index index lro-digest From David John Place Tue Jul 4 17:34:09 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 17:34:09 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: MOT test blues In response to your problem of not being able to drive your LR before MOT testing. Guess you could jack the back end up and let it drive with no wheels for a few hours. Remember to alter the revs from time to time or you will have an engine with a speed memory like old NiCad batteries. If you could find a moving road machine in some test facility that would solve the whole problem. Dave VE4PN From David John Place Tue Jul 4 17:39:28 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 17:39:28 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Gas (Oxygenated Fuels) I have long suspected that if you switch to ethanol type gas in an old vehicle you are asking for problems. I have noticed on a few old cars I have owned that, yes you get a boost in performance, but you also get paper thin gas tanks very quickly. I suspect that the blend eats rust and in some vehicles it is only the rust that stops you seeing into the tank! Dave VE4PN From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 4 95 Jul EDT 1921 Date: 4 Jul 95 21:03:01 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: On the repair of fender edges Well, the corroded-aluminum bandit stuck my beloved 109 when I wasn't looking - 31 years worth! While awaiting a replacement rear seal from Atlantic British, I decided to do some of the coachwork repair that's on my list for Churchill's refurbishment. Part of this process was repairing damaged bottom edges on both front fenders. The PO had obviosly not been a good parker, and the front bottoms of both fenders had been pushed in. Following the instructions in LR's manual, I heated the folded-up bottom edges in an effort to straighten them (and the bottom of the fender). No go - they broke right off... It was about this time my synapses started to fire and I realized that I'd have to replace this edge to keep the metal from cracking. 10 minutes and a trip to the local home center later I had my answer - Reynold's Aluminum channel. Reynolds Aluminum makes a u-channel designed to fit over the edge of 1/2" plywood, making it 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" and about 1/16" thick. This proved to be ideal, as a section of this fitted just above where the old lip was on the inside of the fender edge and held in place with countersunk Pop-Rivets gave the fender back all of the rigidity it originally had and more. After fitting it, a bit of sanding and some spot putty covered the rivet heads giving an original appearance with no loss of structural strength. After it's painted, you'll never even see it. Just my tuppence worth...ajr From jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Tue Jul 4 18:10:48 1995 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 18:10:48 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Preloading the rear output shaft bearing (speedo. shims) Just wondering if anyone has any experience with techniques for pre loading the rear output bearing (from the transfer box through the speedometer housing). I've followed the Haynes manual technique of preloading at about 2-3 pounds using a lead weight rather than pull spring and measuring the appropriate shim thickness. After installing the appropriate shims and attaching the speedometer housing and worm gear the shaft seems a bit tight. I've nothing to compare it too though. Thanks in advance. Jeremy Bartlett From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 04 95 Jul EDT 1921 Date: 04 Jul 95 21:37:04 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Recent Digests Peter Aslan The first rule of clutch problems on a ser 2 or 2a is to check the cross pins in the joint tube from the clutch slave cylinder bracket to the clutch shaft on the gearbox, by check I mean take them out and be sure that they are in one piece, they often break into two pieces and the parts stay in place, however the break creates a lot of backlash in the system and the lost motion results in gear grating or an inabilty to clear the clutch to change gear. If thay are broken use a long 1/4 dia bolt ie one in which the plain portion is over an inch long. Stephen The golden rule for temperature problems, First check the instrument . start checking the system by removing the sender, clip an earth wire to it and put the complete assembly into a pan of BOILING water, you will then see what 100 deg C ( or 212 deg F in the colonies ) reads like on the gauge, you will find most of them to be pretty inacurate. I once tried 20 different sensors before I found one that read 100 deg on the gauge. Steven Swiger land rover gearboxes that have been used in two wheel drive for long periods without 4 wheel drive engagement usually suffer from siezure of the engage / disengage shafts. If you look at the front of the transfer housing where the rear of the front prop shaft fits you will see a metal cover consisting of two tubes fastened to a plate, if you reve this assembly it exposes the end of two shafts, clean these up and spray with WD40 or similar and attempt to move the shafts in and out until they are free, , the 4 wd shaft if spring loaded, cover with anti sieze grease and replace the cover. Then Happy 4 wheeling. To remove ball joints from the steering arm there are a number of special tools available which work with varying degrees of success, my usual method is to use 2 1 1/2 pound hammers, after removing the pin and securing nut, strike each side of the steering arm, simultaneously with the hammers, the trick is " simultaneously ' which you will feel when both hammers have a good springback, wish I could do a drawing to aid in the explanation, after a few good simultaneous strikes the ball jopint will spring out of the tapered socket. If you want to remove by striking the end of the screw thread it is important to provide some support for the arm, otherwise most of the applied force is lost in bending the arm, Happy holiday to the colonists. Bill Leacock Limey in exile. From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 04 95 Jul EDT 1921 Date: 04 Jul 95 21:37:10 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Copy of: what is it ? ---------- Forwarded Message ---------- From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Tue Jul 04 22:34:10 1995 Date: Tue, 04 Jul 95 22:34:10 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: Land Rover products at the movies My kids have just come back (drat) from the movies. They went to see the CASPER THE FRIENDLY GHOST. My nine year old son came rushing up stairs to tell me that a Range Rover is the vehicle of choice for the female villain in the movie. Apparently the vehicle gets smacked about by a wrecking ball and nearly driven of a cliff but still remains driveable. Sounds like a true Land Rover product too me. TTFN Robin -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From CpaulP@aol.com Wed Jul 5 02:11:27 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 02:11:27 -0400 From: CpaulP@aol.com Subject: Re: Roof rack Recently tried the Yakima roof rack system for the 95 Disco. It does not work. Particularly bad is the rear rack which scratches the body as you try to tighten down the rack foot. Also, with the Yakima you cannot open the rear sun roof. It barely clears the glass when closed. I ended up going with a Thule system which works very well. From Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Wed Jul 5 08:29:11 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 08:29:11 +0200 (MET DST) From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Subject: Re: Gas (Oxygenated Fuels) Hi Some wrote about oxigenated fuel. I read the users manual of my 110 this morning in the subway. Land Rover tells not to use fuel mixed with ethanol or methanol, 'cause it will damage the engine. only my 2 cents. Franz --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de From Andrew Grafton Wed Jul 5 11:30:29 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 11:30:29 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Overland trip - companion wanted Please excuse the blatant advertising going on here, but I reckon there must be people out there who are interested or know someome who would be interested in this. We're looking for one more person to join our gang of 5 for a six-month overland trip from the UK to South Africa starting in October of this year. Presently we have 5 group members (3 men and 2 women), 2 Landrovers, a small pile of equipment and some idea which way we want to travel - probably through Eastern Europe and then down the Eastern side of Africa. If you're interested, or know anyone else who would be, then email me or 'phone me on 01509 238410 (UK number) and we can talk further. Our requirements are that you/they be reasonably fit and healthy, and have something to offer the group as a whole (a sense of humour, for example!!). This isn't a package tour so everyone will be expected to muck in with the organisation, planning and execution of the trip. The total cost of the trip will be about 3000 UKP per person, worst case, which provides an equal stake in everything we will spend on the trip. Please note that people don't need to be Landrover types - they'll learn all they need to know on the way :-) All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Wed Jul 05 07:01:20 1995 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 95 07:01:20 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Re[2]: Fuel tank leaks (from Oxygenated Fuels?) Maybe this is why the fuel tank in my very old 109 is suddenly dripping constantly. Any suggestions for a repair for a steady drip type leak or am I necessarily looking at a replacement tank? Leak seems to be a few inches aft of the drain plug -- more than a weep, less than a stream, a drop every few seconds. Thanks, Hank [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > and in some vehicles it is only the rust that stops you seeing into the > tank! Dave VE4PN From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Wed Jul 5 13:10:59 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 13:10:59 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: The Prince of Darkness, Forever (Lucus IV?) Greetings fellow sufferers of the curse of uncle Joe. As my Dynamo on my IIa diesel packed up about a month ago, I have been searching for all the bits req'd for an alternator upgrade (mostly the bracket). Having assembled the hardware this weekend, I launched into the project. Simple eh, just bolt off old bracket, bolt on new bracket, wire it up, patch 'round the control box, et Voil=E0! We've had two weeks of sunshine and searing heat in Cambridge, so the late evenings and warmth would make work pleasant. I started Sunday midday with a steam-clean, but first the radiator panel. =46rom the outset he prognosis did not look good. The first forboding sign was the attention the PO had paid to detail. He had replaced EVERY one of the 13 nuts/bolts holding in the front panel with Nylok Nuts! For anyone who loathes the removal of the radiator as much as I, this is salt in the wound. And he'd made sure they were all there, all 13, does ANYBODY use all 13 bolts? Arghhh. The only detail he missed was using bullet connectors when re-wiring, so I had to cut through a lot of the wiring harness to get the panel free. Not the three hour job I'd thought it would be, this... On to the cleaning, and off with the fan, etc. Funny, the crank pully looks odd. Someone had WELDED the pully/flywheel to the center sleeve (or tried and been foiled by the rubber insert. It was loose on the crank. Bad start. In order to remove the dynamo bracket, the pully must come forward or out. Now those who've pulled them know, it's crucial to get the crank key on the UPPER face of the crank before pulling, or the dreaded 'clink' will make you all too aware that the timing cover must come off. The weld confused the issue and I was unsure where the keyway was in the pully, but I thought I was right. Clink. Arghhhhhhh. The timing cover had to come off. So it did... and the sunny weather of two weeks time decided to break. It began to rain. Under cover of closed bonnet, I banged my head for two more hours, removing/replacing the timing cover twice more as the key would not stay in place upon reassembly (even right-side up). I finally hit it with a hammer. This worked. And the evening and the morning were the first day. The job has gone much like this for two more days now. The rain got sufficient water in the sump before I could cover up to justify and oil change... and the third replcement of the timing cover predictably damaged the sump gasket... so that's the next job. The alternator I'd procured was shot and was actually _consuming_ 2.5 amps on connection, so I had to get a recon unit. The wiring was a little untidy as well... but press on I did. It was finally reassembled (though I broke the horn connectors I'd fixed last week), the wiring reversed to negative earth, and water poured into the radiator. Ta-dah!? On startup we got voltage... and amperes... and no charge light. Was it a miracle? No. My favorite Land-Rover rule came into play. Never fix something... something else will break. It began as a fine mist: from the residual damp on the engine or the screen-wash bottle, I thought? No, it was one... nay two pinhole leaks in the front of the radiator pissing water all over my feet. Like small water pistols they pumped away. This job was not meant to be. Well it's charging, at least, and I did drive it home, but now I'm charging around looking for new radiator... albeit with some trepidation... what's going to be next? Charlie From cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Wed Jul 5 13:11:02 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 13:11:02 +0100 From: cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk (Charlie Wright) Subject: Dynamo->Alternator swap The techincal side of my swap produced some genuine questions. For those who have gone before me: A) Did we ever put together a wiring diagram for patching around the control box when swapping over? I merged Series II and III diagrams from Haynes. This should be confirmed, discussed, or agreed and put in the Tech. FAQ. B) What provides feedback to the Lucas 16-ACR alternator? the warning-light connection? Just curious what prevents over charging here. C) What is the correct way to wire the Ammeter for an alternator. I've been told (and now seen for myself) that an alternator will give full deflection on the ammeter during the first few minutes of operation, and then settle down to the correct level. I was told this was due to the rectification used in alternators vs. dynamos. I don't believe it. I'm still getting a reading of about 15-20 amps even after running it for 1/2 hour. The battery shouldn't be needing THAT much topping up? D) Looking at the diagram, I tried to work out what needed swapping for the negative earth conversion. All motors (starter, windscreen wipers) are dual-coil type, so they run the same way regardless of polarity. Only the ammeter and fuel guage remain polarity dependant... or so I thought. The ammeter works either way so I would ignore the direction, I rewired the fuel guage. Much to my surprise, the ammeter reads the same direction as before with no changes and the fuel guage read backwards _after_ the swap. Any ideas? What am I missing here? It must be obvious. Anyone want to collaborate on a tech-help document with wiring diagram for this little job? Ideas and comments invited. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From Andrew Grafton Wed Jul 5 13:36:32 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 13:36:32 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Re : Overland trip - companion wanted In my haste I neglected to include my email address; A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk Cheers, Andy From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Wed Jul 5 10:21:39 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 1995 10:21:39 -0400 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: BLOW-BY BLUES So I'm on my way to visit fellow Rover owner Nate Dunsmore and I lose power...not completely mind you...just enough to make going up a small hill a real effort. Nate showed me the "poor man's compression check" where you remove a plug wire at a time and find out which cylinder is not doing the work. Sure enough, numbers 2 and 3 were doing nothing. Zilch. I limped home running on two cylinders and took off the head, discovering a complete blow-by in the gasket between 2 and 3 as well as a smaller gap between 1 and 2. I am ordering head gasket today but wonder: what causes the gasket to blow like this? I don't want it to happen again. Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From "Mugele, Gerry" Mon Jul 03 17:01:00 1995 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 95 17:01:00 PDT From: "Mugele, Gerry" Subject: Electronic Oil Leaks On June 28th "-Peter C. Parsons, " said: >>p.s. Q: Why don't the British make computers? >> A: because they cannot figure out how to make them leak oil.... :-) Well ya got it wrong I'm afraid Peter. They do build what passes for a computer. Amstrad builds an assortment of such devices...they were even sold in the US by Sears about ten to twelve years ago. And they don't need to leak oil...they can lose data. Only problem is that when you move the machine you can't find the missing data underneath. 8-D. Gerry From Biosource <0003479098@mcimail.com> Wed Jul 5 10:44 1995 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 95 10:44 EST From: Biosource <0003479098@mcimail.com> Subject: Range Rover missing/hesitation problems? Anyone have a solution to a missing/hesitation problem in a 90 Range Rover (3.9L)? Occasionally the car misses badly on acceleration (or constant speed) but the problem always corrects itself. No codes pop on the dash so I donUt think itUs EFI related, and IUve run through several cans of Techron to clean out the injectors. Also, where can I buy a used cubby box