From Mr Ian Stuart Wed May 31 09:00:15 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 09:00:15 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Today is the Day! Well, this is it! Assuming that the guy who has rebuilt the vehicle has done a good job, I shall be buying an SIII 109 2.25 petrol this evening How quickly can I get the day to pass??? ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. WWW sites: Work -- Play -- From Mark Perry Wed May 31 03:45:34 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 03:45:34 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry Subject: unleaded fuel&c Unleaded fuel has been unavailable in Canada for at least a couple of years now. The PO of my '66 IIA (7:1) was quite definite about using a lead substitute, and I have been faithfully putting the stuff in the tank. Various brands are available hereabouts: STP (sells for about CDN$12 a litre, Canadian Tire's house brand Motomaster, Rislone, I believe has a Pb sub also. About 150 ml does a full tank. A tech rep from the Manitoba Motor League (CAA/AAA affiliate) said one fill in three should be sufficient since the residue should persist on the valves. Now our meddlesome federal government, urged on by Screamin' Sheila Copps, the minister in charge of environment, is about to ban the additive MMT which is used as Pb sub in unleaded fuels in Canada, but is apparently banned in U.S.A. for various toxic reasons. Question is, if the stuff in the store-bought Pb substitute isn't the accursed MMT, what is it, or are we Canucks to be deprived of the stuff that protects our pre-unleaded valves? Lloyd Allison cautions about checking half-shafts after 'hard work' by which I take it he means hard driving? My LH rear shaft snapped of at the diff end splines a couple of weeks back. Had a spare shft, and a spare diff, and had local shop do the job (I just didn't feel like it) Mechanic didn't like look of diff, so he swapped in the spare, provenance unknown, but servicable. New there's a bit of a hum about 2200 rpm in 4th gear, so we'll see how this one goes. More diff work in the offing? Driving around town - even in Winnipeg winter - is hardly hard work, but I had had the shaft out a couple of weeks earlier while replacing a hub seal. I recall a bit of scoring around middle of the the splines then, if that means anything. Is there something I could have nobbled putting the shaft back it? It did seem tight going in the last couple of inches. Heaters. Recent comments most enlightening: It appears then, I have a Kodiak Mk3, lacking a heater control valve, though: fan on, it's hot, hot, hot; fan off, it's no sweat. Open the little door, and my galfriend's knees are toasty. Had to repalce the heater core last fall; lead pipes corroded out. If anyone can give me a p/n for the heater control that goes on the fan housing, I would be most grateful. It mounts with three screws on a triangular base, and I'm told it might be one found on Minis or such at one time. Otherwise, SerII block mount valve OK? Mark Perry Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop: "Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire." From "James" Wed May 31 11:03:25 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 11:03:25 GMT0BST From: "James" Subject: Stereos in SIIs >If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in >a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? In answer to your query regarding the positioning of a -killer sound system in a series II well... Funnily enough I have just put a radio cassette in my 1960 series II + 7 channel graphic equaliser etc... Well I found that the best place to put it is under the dash, dead centre in that little pannel which has the choke and heater switch in it. If you remove the pannel... not the little insert, the whole pannel approx 35x10 cm. Then move the choke and heater switch elsewhere, cut a hole in that pannel for the radio... Put in radio... Replace pannel, ... Here's the clever bit... Don't put the pannel back as far as it will go, just recess it enough to bolt it under the front of the dash, you will have to block off the engine compartment around the body of the radio, rockwool is adequate but you may want to do a better job... As for speakers.... Best place has to be in the seat boxes as it permits the perception of bass (Even in aLandrover (With engine runnnig!)) doorpannel mounting is good if you don't want to 'hurt' your precious beastie but it doesn't sound a patch on mounting in the seat boxes... even with cheap speakers! Anyway... I shall stop my renting on now... James Curtis: JAMES.CURTIS@NCL.AC.UK From Sanna@aol.com Wed May 31 09:52:15 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 09:52:15 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: Parts for RR The only source I've used for used RR parts is Atlantic British. They'll buy a roll-over when they can find one. 1-800-533-2210. Please let me know if you find a junker out there. I could use some interior parts to refurbish my '89. - Tony From Sanna@aol.com Wed May 31 10:09:12 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 10:09:12 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: My '89 RR >The first thing I learned today is that the diodes in the rear defroster circuit and the door->internal light circuits can be switched with any off the shelf diode. I was a wits end trying to figure why these circuits weren't working, until I noticed these funny black cylinders. Crack them open, and you'll find any old off the Radio Shack shelf diode. I soddered in some new ones (rated for 2.5 A and 100 V) ...for those of you with circuit problems. With summer now here, it's time for me to start chasing down the winter bugs in my '89 RR too. My rear defroster doesn't work either (amoung other things). Although the diodes may not be the place to start looking for the problem, it's a possibility. Where are they located and how do you tell if they're bad? Another trouble spot is the heater/defroster. I have an idea that the intake is stuck on recirculate, since the car fogs quickly and almost permanently in wet weather. Using the defroster just makes it worse. Any idea on how to check this? Also, when I bought the car, the PO had replaced the heated windshield with a standard one. If I replace this one, does this option work well enough to warrant the $300 extra bucks? Thanks. - Tony From Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com> 31 95 May EDT 1911 Date: 31 May 95 11:51:14 EDT From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com> Subject: Land Rover Parts Are there any Land Rover dealers in the US that sells parts via mail order at a discount? I get parts for my Mercedes from a dealer in California that sells them at a minimum 25% discount from list. I would like to continue using OEM parts on my Rover, but the only dealer here charges full list. Am I the only guy that hates to pay list price? Anyone? From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Wed May 31 09:16:52 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 95 09:16:52 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: Stereos in SIIs In message <199505311006.FAA07756@butler.uk.stratus.com> "James" writes: ; >If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in ; >a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? ; ; Funnily enough I have just put a radio cassette in my 1960 series II ; + 7 channel graphic equaliser etc... ; ; Well I found that the best place to put it is under the dash, dead ; centre in that little pannel which has the choke and heater switch in ; it. If you remove the pannel... not the little insert, the whole ; pannel approx 35x10 cm. Then move the choke and heater switch ; elsewhere, cut a hole in that pannel for the radio... Put in ; radio... Replace pannel, ... Here's the clever bit... Don't put ; the pannel back as far as it will go, just recess it enough to bolt ; it under the front of the dash, you will have to block off the ; engine compartment around the body of the radio, rockwool is ; adequate but you may want to do a better job... ; ; As for speakers.... ; ; Best place has to be in the seat boxes as it permits the perception ; of bass (Even in aLandrover (With engine runnnig!)) doorpannel ; mounting is good if you don't want to 'hurt' your precious beastie ; but it doesn't sound a patch on mounting in the seat boxes... even ; with cheap speakers! James, I take it you keep your Land Rover dry. There are some of us who occasionally get their cars wet and may find your stereo placement under water. I'm not sure how being submerged affects the base response but it probably causes problems with the high end response.. If you keep the top on, I might suggest adding a stereo wide shelf just abouve the front window. There would be space there for a stereo, pair of downward facing speakers, second set of rear facing speakers, amplifier, CB, reading lamps and some map storrage. You can run a fused hot line and ground wire up inside the middle window channel. You can even pad the leading lower edge for safety and finish it off in the same style as your headliner. I saw one variation of this where the radios hide away out of view when not in use. I generally try not to wade any deeper than half way up my seat box, but some people I know, like Jim Rusell, are trying to get their seat cushons approved as flotation devices TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From Charlie Wright Wed May 31 17:32:51 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 17:32:51 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Old Windscreen Wipers All right folks, a mundane but important wiper query. I have the old motors, I've got the rebuild instructions, I have the technology, I can rebuild them... BUT I can't get blades for the old-style Lucas chrome wiper arms. They have the odd 'spoon' connector (not the 'spade' or 'bayonet' connector). There is a company who does 'classic' wiper ARMS for these cars (chrome, Lucus style) which take the modern 'bayonet' style blades (Bosch, Hella, etc) but these are still too new to fit the old wiper motors. They have a clamp connector at the base that is about 1" across. The old spindles are about 1/4" accross. Oops. <-spindle tip <-spindle tip ==============++==== ===============-, ,-== '==' New 'bayonet' Old 'spoon' I actually went to Lucas' parts counter. They no longer make the blades OR the arms. They make no replacement. They have no idea what to suggest. Perhaps Land-Rover has them he suggested. I asked the nice man where he thought Land-Rover got them, since they were stamped LUCUS!? He agreed that they might have come from Lucus. (Does Lucus _make_ its own employees?) Good grief. Does anyone have the solution? (or a pair of middle aged arms with the new bayonet fittings and the old thin spindle clamp?) My _late_ IIa had thin spindles AND bayonette connectors, so they exist. Cheers, Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From William Caloccia Wed May 31 13:52:38 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 95 13:52:38 -0400 From: William Caloccia Subject: ARC Nat'ls/ The List / Audio / Audi's / un-PC LRO's / !Pb / RR Steering / Delco alt Hi All, Well, I went off to the ARC Nationals and left Majordomo to it, and he's kept things running well for the weekend while I was out getting at tan at a Lincolnshire Beach [well not much water, but lots of sun and sand :-) ]. I, and my RR survived the ARC Nationals, barring the sprung bonnet latch, which now ceases to keep the bonnet shut at speeds in excess of 73 mph. While there I met Stefan Jacob, as well as Gunther & some of friends who brought with them an ample supply of German Beer, cold to keep it in, and some plum liquor (25% ABV), which was wicked sweet. There was not international clubs meeting, apparently due to lack of preparation, and the 'preceived' absence of international members, though US, Germany, Norway and NZ were represented amoung others. I've got a few extra copies of the 1995 ARC handbook, with copies reserved for Sandy Grice and Dixon Kenner, (pending their addresses and my return from holiday). I made the trip up on Friday, and set about to add secondary return springs and what not to the motor for scrutineering. What happened next is the plastic ball cup on the end of the throttle linkage rod went to bits, and then the Penine men helped me sort it out, evenutally borrowing one from another motor. I got into the scruitneering line sometime about 10:30, and finished at about 12:15, failing. (problems described below) The Yorkshire lads invited me to show up the next morning at 7am to work on the motor, and then we were off to the beer tent. I left after a bit, though as I didn't get much sleep, it probably wouldn't have matter if I stayed 'til later with 'em. Saturday at 7 I showed up and drove half on their ramp truck, scrounged the massive socket set, tightened the steering drop arm retaining nut, and then spent the better part of an hour to remove, clean, re-pack and (more difficult) replace the drop-arm ball joint, tightened a couple other things and made it to scruitneering at 8:25. Then set off to find my navigator, a Pennine ROC man from Lancs. I queued up the the RR and we were off to the RTV. All the events were in two quarries, which offered a variety of terrain and lots of elevation changes, with few trees and things to hit (aside from the rock wall or major boulder). Word has it the only incident in the RTV was a D90 driver who rear-ended a lightwieght while convoying to the next section. Unfortunately, the military hitch took out the D90's radiator. The Lincolnshire club had most of it extreemly well organized, (except for a few couple marshals who didn't have a clear idea of where their next section was in the quarry). The trade stands were decent and a bunch of vendors were there, Land Rover itself was not, but that makes for a better selection of vendors (non-LR dealers selling LR parts, & aftermarket etc.) Scrutineering was open 24 hours from Friday through the start of the Comp Safari on Monday. Food vendors were in both quarries, as well as on-site at the camps. One of the grocers (Co-op) had a mobile food store there, milk wagons made the round of the camps each morning. The only thing missing was a rack of BT pay phones and a cash machine. You really couldn't ask for much more. All this and the main camp site was moved five miles the week before the event. Once you got there, you'd never have known. The host club really ran the event well. Sunday I did some buying, and drove up to Lincoln to find an ATM, then returned to take some photos of Pennine friends running the CCVT. Stefan and I found some of the ARC leadership and discussed the international meeting, or lack there of. Monday I went and marshalled on the Comp Safari, and got stuck in the middle of the quarry, and didn't have much fun at all. After that was the awards and then I hung out with friends from Pennine at their end-of-the-rally BBQ, and got a late start back to London [leaving at 2300 and arriving at 0200, with liberal stops for fresh air, caffine and closing the bonnet]. Here are some responses to recent articles: +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Audio Systems mounting + cubby box instead of middle seat - top of bulkhead (little shelf above console) ! with 1 metre of wiring extra and toss it back on the floor after tuning, or leave on center seat whilst wading (my personal mode of installation) + Hardtop: mount above windscreen (hanging from roof, or make shelf across top) + in seat box with remote control (seal it up before wading ! ) - down between your legs, just watch the coffee & crumbs (I put a CB there speakers: rear of hard top facing forward, mounted top corners or middle corners (rim of pick-up) or forward facing from rear, or middle top sides +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ tonyy@ntalpha.nt.bom.gov.au (Tony Yates) writes: > In Australia the government has been trying to persuade those of us with > pre-unleaded vehicles to use unleaded (via 2c tax) > Presumably this has also been the case in the UK and US In the US, the EPA outlawed lead additives, and the last of it went of the market a few years ago (at consumer pumps), earlier in CA and the N.E. than in middle America, due to CARB (CA Air Resources Board) requirements, etc. In the UK, they released a report last summer that said unleaded is a 'worse' pollutant than leaded, where most of the vehicle fleet is neither controlled injection nor catalyzed, as the incomplete combustion of unleaded on start-up produces far more partially combusted hydrocarbons and noxious emissions, etc. UK Market prices seems to placed leaded more expensive than not (more octane), but I've not been 'round long enough to know if this includes more tax. > Darwin RFC > Bureau of Meteorology Gee, why would a rugby football club care about the weather ? :-) +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Well, S.W. Brierley points out that: - environmentalists don't like LRO's 'cause they got gas guzzling polluting engines, and the vehicles last forever so they don't get replaced with new more efficiently powered vehicles - parents don't like LRO's 'cause they've got the roo bars might be more injurious than the slab-sided face of a rover - Land Owners (& eco-hikers) don't like LRO's 'cause they go about tearing up the land, injuring trees and killing animals Well, I guess that means LRO's are then just politically incorrect... [Glad I bought that sticker at the ARC in Lincs "Tested on Animals"] +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner) writes about RR steering: check the following: * pinch bolts on the u-joint prior to the steering relay * steering drop arm vertical movement (loose retaining nut), then, * steering drop arm ball joint vertical movement other steering track rod ends (being replaced today) [it helps to have someone turning the steering wheel while you're examining these things, ball joints can als be checked with giant slip joint pliers for vertical movement] (* all of which scrutineering failed me for the night before the ARC National RTV, [not to mention two loose rear prop shaft bolts and the other two were AWOL] but the Yorkshire lads (running the 'Thunderbird' badged motors), invited me to drop by bright and early Saturday morn' and Martin helped me sort it all out, using his ramp truck and 3/4" socket set and refitting the drop arm ball joint after removal and re-packing, which I did in the rain, etc.) +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Kelly Minnick writes, RE: delco altenators: I found three things were required: - reduce the thickness of one of the alt. mounts so the front pulley was in the plane with the other pulleys - increase the diameter of the rover generator mount, or insert collar to reduce diameter of delco mounting hole - use a different length belt + i don't know if I was able to use the standard bar for adjusting or had to get a different one. also be aware that the delco's have a number of different mounting configurations, but essentially there are two different patterns for the mounting tabs on the case, and their mirror configuration (for high or low on right or left side of the block) +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Torsen Diff's I think Audi uses these - a $1600 retro fit for a Sierra/Merkur XR4... +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner) writes ? > I need a center console for my 89 RR, its the part that holds the center > glove box and has the window switches on it as well as the auto-trans > indicator. center glove box ? switched windows ? auto-trans ? whuz that ? :-) +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Well, my motor is in the shop getting checked over before I go on holiday, doing the brake work I didn't get to, some track rod ends, and what not. Then I'm off to Le Shuttle and over through France to Italy. I'm out from the 1st to the 19th, so hopefully Majordomo will keep the list marching on. 'til later, --bill caloccia@Team.Net caloccia@Stratus.Com 1 3 dl OD L "Land Rover's first, because |--|--+ o | | Land Rovers last." 2 4 R ul N H '72 Range Rover From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Wed May 31 13:40:19 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 95 13:40:19 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Questions questions? FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Questions questions? Hi Jeff. I have been examining your Land Rover pictures, and have a few questions... Does your CD player skip? Is it a changer? (Multiple discs) and what type is it? How do you attach the roll bar? Is it attached to the frame in some way? Or just bolted to the bed? Where did you get it? Do you still have your wiper motor? I like the speakers and location, but would not like to lose the wipers, how did you do this? Are your speakers waterproof? (Marine type.) Have you considered mounting the CD or radio under the drivers seat? In the "tool box/battery holder"? (That's where the PO of my "88 mounted a radio, you can still see the holes.) Not sure I'd like this location though... Does your heater "heat"? Can you feel much air flowing from it, or is it more like... "wait a minute... I think I feel it... yes... there IS air coming out... " What size/type tires are those? Any clearance problems? Again, very nice looking "88!! My compliments! #=====# #========# -------,___ |___|__\___ |___|__|__\___ |--' | | \_|_ | _ | |_ |} | _ | | |_ |} | _ |--+--|_ | "(_)""""(_)" "(_)"""""""(_)" ||_/_\___|__/_\_|} (_) (_) 1971 "88" IIa 1970 "109" IIa 1994 Discovery (for sale $30,500) (Too hard to "draw") #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From Steven M Denis Wed May 31 18:20:53 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 18:20:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis Subject: converter The reasons I have not installed an converter on the 109 are: Money...they cost, I ain't got...it does run with out it... The best location for it would increase the heat in the driver's footwell.....And wouldn't *that* be dandy....8-0 As long as you can only get unleaded, why not go the whole route? you cannot fight city hall on this one...It is somewhat like the "tread Lightly" program here in the states...show some signs of respectbility and most folks leave you alone...it ain't gunna kill ya to have a converter on the 2.25...and having one will prevent the Greenies from legislating your 2.25 off the road...how's about a preemptive strike? everyone get a converter installed and make a big promotion with the media? You know, those *great* Land Rover people..and here all this time we thought they were all hooligans!...think about it.... steve...... flame away..but watch the stack temp., we don't want any NOX !!!!! "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis PO Box 296 Fulton, New York USA 13069 From hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz Wed May 31 22:36:33 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 22:36:33 GMT From: hugh@nezsdc.fujitsu.co.nz Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? >>If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in >>a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >IIa just about centered on the shift knob when the Rover is in reverse. >(Yes, have a Kodiak heater.) It's not insanity, eh. Mine is also under the dash, but located under the steering wheel between the drivers knees. The heater stopped me from fitting it more centrally. The speakers are fitted into the plywood door panels. I'd probably put it above the windshield if I never took the hardtop off. From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Wed May 31 22:14:15 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 1995 22:14:15 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Camel trophy Daily Logs Central America is experiencing its hottest and driest May in over two decades. Consequently, the mud for which the Camel Trophy is justly famous, has set into concrete. Tuesday, May 30th - "The Calm Before the Storm" The Camel Trophy crossed back into Guatamala Monday evening and entered Honduras on Tuesday. Though it has been extremely dry, the deep glutinous mud at the Rio Jupilingo border crossing claimed many vehicles; it was a good day for winching. Tuesday turned out to be a relatively easy day, as the participants were given a half day to explore the ruins and hieroglyphs in a around Copan. This was to be last breather before the punishing final week of the event. At present, the plans call for the team to follow Cortez's route around the western edge of Lago Izabal back into Guatamela towards the finish in Xunnantunich back in Belize. The team will spend two or more days attempting to retrace part of the route that the conquistadors took up the coast of Guatamala...a route that has not been used in centuries. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com> 01 95 Jun EDT 1900 Date: 01 Jun 95 00:16:35 EDT From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com> Subject: Towing I own a '95 Range Rover 4.0 SE. I would like to tow an Airstream trailer with it. According to the manual, tFrom "S.W.Brierley" Thu Jun 1 10:16:51 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 10:16:51 +0100 From: "S.W.Brierley" Subject: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8?? Hi fellow LRO's I have a 76 SER III SWB with a 3.5Ltr V8 fitted under the bonnet. It currently runs a set of 175CD Stromberg Carbs, which aren't performing that brilliantly. I would like to convert over to a set of SU-HIF carbs and would appreciate any help/hints/comments from anyone with any knowledge or experience of this conversion. Mine has already had the linkage replaced by a throttle cable to allow the connection to the Strombergs, so that part isn't a problem. Can anyone recommend good donors, or does anyone have a decent set of SU's that they may be willing to trade in. Oh, and yes i do know that there are companies in the uk that do the complete kits, but the price put me off a little!!!! OOps the Subject should read Stromberg to SU conv on V8. .....sorry. Thanks in advance for any help offered. Huh huhh huh huh Landrovers kick ass..... cool. Stu. swb@dl.ac.uk From "Steve Methley" Thu Jun 1 12:11:53 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 12:11:53 +0100 From: "Steve Methley" Subject: Re: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8?? S.W.Brierley writes: >currently runs a set of 175CD Stromberg >Carbs, which aren't performing that brilliantly. >I would like to convert over to a set of SU-HIF carbs Your cheapest option is to rebuild the Stombergs for 12 quid each. There honestly isn't a great advantage in going to SU's. I've had both. There is a small advantage in mixture setting ease on the HIF's however, maybe this is what you're after? Also purely personally I liked the separate chokes of the SU's over the balance pipe of the ZS's. Neither reason is enough to change. You'll get 20mpg from either set up. (racers use SU's mainly because of the wider range of needles available by the way) Cheers, Steve. From Mr Ian Stuart Thu Jun 1 12:33:58 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 12:33:58 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Re: *that* *word* :< >... cool. AAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggghhhh Someone used *that* *word* again!!! it should be excised from the human conciousness! BTW - I bought a 109 (1st registered dec 1st, 1980) last night & I'm in love all over again -- the world is a wonderful place!!! ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. WWW sites: Work -- Play -- From Lloyd Allison Thu Jun 1 21:39:19 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 21:39:19 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: Rover style half-shafts I wouldn't worry about little marks on the splines at the diff' end. Apparently the splines can twist, through many degrees, under "abuse" a bit like a cork-screw, but they (sometimes) don't break until much later. So a check at home (only takes a moment) can save a lot of bother later. I must say this only applies to rear Rover-style diff's, especially S2, S2A long-wheel bases. Salisbury diff's and half-shafts are very strong. Lloyd From Karl Kurz Thu Jun 1 07:45:26 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 07:45:26 -0400 (EDT) From: Karl Kurz Subject: digest unsub Sir, I have been trying to unsubscribe to lro-digest for the last few days....the return mail claims succss, but the journal still gets delivered. I'm off for the summer and need to slow down the incoming. Thanks From NADdMD@aol.com Thu Jun 1 08:05:10 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 08:05:10 -0400 From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Changing Water Temperature Sending Units I am attempting to replace the water temp sending unit on my 67 88 IIa. The old sensor is a simple cylindrical structure which sets in a threaded seat and held in place by a large nut. The new sender unit is threaded and has a hex head on the side where the electrical clip is. I was told that the old sensors no longer are available and that the new sensors fit after removing the old threaded seat from the head. How does one do this? Can I just put a large threaded nut on the old seat and screw in the new sensor at the other end? Additional note: The Haynes shop manual has an error in the electrical section. The picture labelled temperature sending unit is really the cold start sending unit. I'm sure many of you have already noted this but I thought I 'd mention it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks Nate Dunsmore Boring MD, USA (410)828-2704 From paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Thu Jun 01 22:05:46 1995 Date: Thu, 01 Jun 1995 22:05:46 +1000 From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Subject: Need help in RSA > I am looking for LR's in the RSA for this summer. I am looking for > farm near Tzaneen about a company called BellTrade that can get me what I Belltrade are in Pretoria, and are in the phone book. They also advertise in all the 4x4 rags, so it's not hard to find them. I don't have a Pretorai phone book handy, so I can't give you their number off-hand. Also look at Leimer's Land-Rovers in Johannesburg, and, as a last resort, Rhino Rovers in Midrand (1/2 way between Joburg and Pretoria). While you're in Pretoria en route to Belltrade, call in at Peco Motors (Church St, near Lion Bridge, tel +27 12 3238941) and talk to Mike or Willie. They are the LR agents (expensive), but have lots of contacts, are nice people, and may point you in the direction of someone with Land-Rovers to sell. From Carl Byrne Thu Jun 1 13:28:56 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 13:28:56 GMT From: Carl Byrne Subject: Gun box price Old news now perhaps, but some one was asking for the UK price for gun box, part no. STC 8018. I was quoted 145 pounds sterling - I guess this was typical trade price. Regards Carl.Dr. Carl Byrne University of Wales College of Cardiff, Wales. UK. From Carl Byrne Thu Jun 1 13:32:18 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 13:32:18 GMT From: Carl Byrne Subject: Electrical connector source. Does anybody know who makes/supplied the connectors used throughout the new Landrover range. I am getting fed up of having to scrounge them from Parts Technical when I modify the wiring (fit new radio, near rear lights etc. etc). I guess they are to some new europian standard? Can anybody help? Regards Carl Dr. Carl Byrne University of Wales College of Cardiff, Wales. UK. From William Caloccia Thu Jun 01 09:04:07 1995 Date: Thu, 01 Jun 95 09:04:07 -0400 From: William Caloccia Subject: Roy is unreachable for a few weeks -B ------- Forwarded Message From jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard) Thu Jun 1 09:28 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 09:28 EDT From: jhoward@atlas.usno.navy.mil (James D. Howard) Subject: RR prototype There are a couple of pictures and some information about a Range Rover prototype (for the original model, not the most recent) in the latest issue of Automobile Quarterly. They are in an article about the Rover company. For production, they definitly improved the looks of the front end. James From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Thu Jun 01 08:23:19 1995 Date: Thu, 01 Jun 95 08:23:19 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Defroster FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Defroster Scott, (I think?) Try turning on the air conditioner compressor when using the defroster to defog the windows. The A/C removes moisture from the air. Works real well!! Those of us with series LR's are out of luck with this one. I suppose it's a good thing to have a nearby towel to wipe the window with. Good luck, #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From "Matthew Holding (AUS)" <100036.2103@compuserve.com> 01 95 Jun EDT 1911 Date: 01 Jun 95 11:48:15 EDT From: "Matthew Holding (AUS)" <100036.2103@compuserve.com> Subject: OIL PRESSURE IN V8 Instead of the usual lack of oil pressure I have a 1970 Rover V8 that seems to have too much. The engine has recently has new gaskets and compression is good and runs really well but it insists on blowing oil up through the breather system into the air cleaner. This wastes a lot of paper elements... After a few days driving the reverse happens - it has blown its oil out the top and now has a lack of pressure. I am tempted to put a cork in every hole in the breather system, but they will probably just pop out :-) Any ideas - our local club members have drawn a blank. HELP... Matthew Holding - South Australia (Also presently fixing a big hole in a Series One piston. The engine was running fine even with a hole my thumb fits through... quality engineering !) From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Thu Jun 01 09:15:39 1995 Date: Thu, 01 Jun 95 09:15:39 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Drag link on an 88 FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Drag link on an 88 Hello Roverheads! I started using the '71 IIa 88 that I recently bought, and with your help, passed emissions and is now legal! Now, the little things that need attention start to surface.... I went to Tombstone Arizona, about 180 or so miles south of where I live, (actually I took the 88 AND the 109, as we had lots of people) but didn't do anything trying for the vehicles. Only some easy trails, nothing to write home about. Didn't even use 4wd. Anyway, several days later, I used the 88, and the first time I backed up, the tie rod fell out of the drag link, and I had the tires facing opposite directions! (Glad this didn't happen on the freeway!) I just popped it back in and tightened up the bolt that clamps around the tie rod end. My question is this: Is the drag link supposed to have "threads" to help hold the tie rod end? Or is it supposed to be smooth? Mine is basically smooth, (warn?) so I wondered if I need to replace this??? I think I have the terminology correct, but in case I don't, I'm talking about the straight rod that connects the two tires. Thanks for your replys! #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From "Steve Methley" Thu Jun 1 17:21:49 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 17:21:49 +0100 From: "Steve Methley" Subject: Re: OIL PRESSURE IN V8 Matthew Holding (AUS) <100036.2103@compuserve.com> writes: >Instead of the usual lack of oil pressure I have a 1970 Rover V8 that seems to >have too much. The engine has recently has new gaskets and compression is go >and runs really well but it insists on blowing oil up through the breather This is not too much oil pressure, this is blowby. Ie the pistons rings are not sealing well and you have high crankcase pressure, not good. If the breather system is working properly and you still have this problem, start saving up pennies now. What is the actual oil pressure? >After a few days driving the reverse happens - it has blown its oil out the t >and now has a lack of pressure Oh dear, it just seems to get worse doesn't it. What's the pressure now? The V8 should never really put out much more than 35psi from the pump - it's designed for high flow tho'. Blowby at idle is mild. Take off the oil filler cap from a rocker cover and feel the blow-by pressure on your hand. An oil flush or upper cylinder lubricant may help you. Cheers, Steve. From ajm@mda.ca (Alex McLellan) Thu Jun 1 09:45:40 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 09:45:40 PDT From: ajm@mda.ca (Alex McLellan) Subject: Old Windscreen Wipers ISTR that my '54 Morris Minor had the same design. Spoon-shape connection, perfectly straight blade for a flat winscreen. So, try the Morris Minor Centre in Bath. Sorry, no address/phone, but BT will tell you! Regards Alex (ajm@mda.ca - not speaking for mda) From berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg) Thu Jun 1 12:54:24 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 12:54:24 -0400 From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg) Subject: Re: Questions questions? After viewing the photos of my Rover, David Brown asks: >Does your CD player skip? Is it a changer? (Multiple discs) and what >type is it? The CD player is a Sony 10-disc changer with a 3 second digital delay to prevent skipping. It's not foolproof, it occasionaly skips (it *hates* dirty discs), and will periodically misfeed a new disk if you're traveling over rough terrain -- Like I-95 in Connecticut, "The Construction State" -- while it's changing. Overall, however, it's quite satisfactory. I don't remember the model off the top of my head, but can provide if so asked. Source: Crutchfield >How do you attach the roll bar? Is it attached to the frame in some way? >Or just bolted to the bed? Where did you get it? The rollbar was originally through bolted into collars welded to the frame. While this was sturdy enough to protect during a rollover, the bar shimmied back and forth in an unseeming manner. It's now welded into the collars, and would have to be cut out with a torch or grinder. A while back Steve Denis sent me Email, and also posted to the list, that rollbars should not be fastened to the frame. Essentially, his arguement went that if the body mounts broke, you could be wedged between the frame/rollbar and the body. After some additional consultation, including an examination as to how Safety Devices (who do the Camel Trophy bars) mount their stuff, I decided to ignore his advice and had it attached to the frame. My reasoning: if the body sides gave with a body attached bar the sandwich would be the same, and I (and Safety Devices apparently) have more faith in the frame mounted bar. The point load during a rollover would be less on the body mounts than on the attachment points of a body-mounted rollbar. Thanks to Steve for his input though, it really had me thinking for a while. >Do you still have your wiper motor? I like the speakers and location, >but would not like to lose the wipers, how did you do this? It's in there. I have the single speed, single motor wipers. The speakers are the ADS 320i model mounted onto flat 1/8" aluminum plates. The woofer is inside a cutout, but there is a collar (provided) that reduces the intrusion of the woofer magnet behind the plate. The tweeters mount flush. It's close, but everything fits without any major contortions. The real question is whether I'll be able to fit two speed wipers w/ washers... Speaker crossovers are in the rear tool enclosure, but would probably fit behind the speaker mounting plates if you so desired. >Are your speakers waterproof? (Marine type.) Nope, just regular auto speakers. They probably wouldn't be too bothered by an occasional rain drop, but I wouldn't subject them to flooding and expect long life. The speaker choice was automatic, these very units have been in my previous two cars, and I may go a different route when I finally replace them. >Have you considered mounting the CD or radio under the drivers seat? In >the "tool box/battery holder"? Nope. I like to fool with the sounds too much. I need line of sight to the stereo. >Does your heater "heat"? Can you feel much air flowing from it, or is it >more like... "wait a minute... I think I feel it... yes... there IS air >coming out... " Air definitely moves, but it's not always very hot. I'd describe it as "taking the chill off" more than heating. However, I'm unhappy with the core, and have had some small coolant leaks with the right hand heater knob pulled out. Roverworks has promised to look into the core when I next have the truck in. Meanwhile, I survived winter! (Though it was very mild this year.) In the foolish questions of my own category, would anyone care to explain what that knob does exactly? I know the top, white knob is the fan, and the lower left black knob turns the heater on. The lower right knob remains an unused mystery due to the leakage that occurs whenever I pull it out. Could this be the key to all that "awesome" Kodiak heat I'm not getting? >What size/type tires are those? Any clearance problems? They are Cooper 235 x 85/16 radials. Originally we were installing the CTD model, but I think that may have changed at the last minute for a less agressive model. (95% of my driving is city or interstate.) I'll try to remember to check tonight. If I don't get back on this tomorrow send me back channel mail to jog my memory. No clearance problems that I've noticed yet. >Again, very nice looking "88!! My compliments! Thank you. It's gratifying to hear. I hope this info proves useful. Keep on Roverin'! JAB == == Jeffrey A. Berg Interactive Telecommunications Program Technical Administrator New York University berg@acf2.nyu.edu ================= Look what happens when you love someone, and they don't love you. --Warren Zevon, The Heartache == == From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Thu Jun 01 10:02:13 1995 Date: Thu, 01 Jun 95 10:02:13 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Re: Drag link on an 88 FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Re: Drag link on an 88 OH S*&%!!! I drove it to work this morning!!! If you never hear from me again, it's been a joy!!! Don't take any blame for my death, I've been warned... I'm going to "crawl" home with the beast! Pray for me!!! #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead *** Reply to note of 06/01/95 09:54 ========================================================================= Thu, 01 Jun 95 09:54:07 MST id AA25868; Thu, 1 Jun 1995 09:56:44 -0700 id AA23892; Thu, 1 Jun 95 12:56:44 EDT From Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com> 01 95 Jun EDT 1913 Date: 01 Jun 95 13:08:17 EDT From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com> Subject: RR Hello Ben!....Mind if I call you Ben? So, you haven't taken you SE off road yet? You're missing the best part! I broke my engine in for about 800 mi. before going off road, but that is all! This thing is serious in the bush. I mean really excellent! After you get past that first little scratch, you'll want to take it off road all the time. My tail pipe is black as well. The engine runs well and I'm getting about 16-17 mpg on the road, so I don't care if it's black. By the way, my Mercedes is really black too. I haven't had any parts fall off yet, but the console lid doesn't fit well. The dealer ordered a new one (back-order of course). While I do love this vehicle, there are two things that bug me. First is the climate control. The fan speed seams to adjust only according to how much sun is shining and does not care about the temp. difference between the set temp. and actual. I'm not sure where you live, but here in Phoenix, the temp. can be very high even at night. I can set the control down to 60 degrees or even to LO and the fan still runs too slow. The car will never get down to the set temp. unless I override the fan. Also, in the morning if the temp is set to anything but LO, I get only hot air for about a mile or so. It seams to be waiting for the engine to warm up before releasing cold air. If it is set to LO, I get cold air in just a few seconds. Does your climate control display these same symptoms? Second, the transmission is not very smart. You mention the refinement of Lexus. Did you own one? I did and that trans was very smart. In the RR, as you ascend a hill the trans will down shift if you lose some speed, but then it up shifts as soon as it regains its speed. Then it will do this over and over and...... Is yours the same? Almost everything in this car is controlled by computer. In light of that fact, these two problems really seam out of line. It just seams like they quit before they were finished. Changed my oil at 1,000 as well and I will definitely be going to Mobil 1 at 7,500. Have done so with all my cars. I change ever 7,500. Some think that is too long in between, but I've been doing it this way for many years. These synthetic oils are great! Anyway, get that RR off the beaten path! You won't regret it! Just remember, if you do break something, ANYTHING can be repaired! Brian Imdieke Phoenix, AZ 1993 500SEL 1994 S500 coupe 1995 RR 4.0 SE From Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com> 01 95 Jun EDT 1913 Date: 01 Jun 95 13:08:14 EDT From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Land Rover & Mercedes Parts Yes, my '95 RR is under warranty for a long time. When it comes to parts, I'm not worried about this thing breaking, but rather I'm looking for accessories and *maintenance* parts. And yes, I *always* wave! (or flash the lights) From Dixon Kenner Thu Jun 1 13:17:29 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 13:17:29 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Drag link on an 88 On Thu, 1 Jun 1995 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV wrote: > OH S*&%!!! I drove it to work this morning!!! Yeah, so? it made it... :-) > If you never hear from me again, it's been a joy!!! Don't take any blame > for my death, I've been warned... Just modify your will to send the Land Rover products this way... I could use the rear box on your 109 station wagon... :-) > I'm going to "crawl" home with the beast! Pray for me!!! If it lasted this long, it will last until you get home. If you prefer the 109 over the 88, steal the drag link from the 88. BTW, its called the steering track rod, LR part #526994 At RN it costs $75.00, at ABP its $129.95. In the UK, expect somewhere in the order of 15-20 pounds maximum. Rgds, From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Thu Jun 1 10:21:11 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 10:21:11 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Drag link on an 88 > My question is this: Is the drag link supposed to have "threads" to help > hold the tie rod end? Or is it supposed to be smooth? Mine is basically > smooth, (warn?) so I wondered if I need to replace this??? Sounds like what I'd call the tie rod. Yes, it's supposed to have threads. Don't drive it until you get threads. There are six of these joints in the steering system, a pair on each end of the three rods. One end is right hand thread, one end is left hand thread, so you can loosen the little clamps and adjust the lenth by turning the rod. Get some new ones soon. The threads in the rod may be stripped out also. Please check. The lenth of the one that fell off (tie rod) is important as it adjusts the "toe in" of your front wheels. They should be ~1/8" closer together at the front. This keeps the machine from wandering all over the road. If you do not feel qualified to make this adjustment, any tire shop can do it, even if they have never seen a Land Rover before. The lenth of the other two rods is not as important, they only affect where the steering wheel points, when you are going straight down the road. Suggestion: Call each of the three parts dealers listed. Beg or purchase a catalog from each one. The illutrations in these catalogs are the best shop manual you can buy, and if you play your cards right you can get all three for free! Order a "pair" of tie rod ends from each one and ask for a catalog. A pair will cost about $25. Atlantic British Ltd Box 110 Rover Ridge Drive Mechanicville, NY 12118 (800) 533-2210 Orders only (518) 664-6169 Technical questions (518) 664-6641 Fax Free catalog Lots of aftermarket parts Many "oem" parts, but not Land Rover authorized British Pacific 3317 Burton Ave. Burbank, CA 91504 Tel.(818)841-8945 800-554-4133 Fax.(818)841-3825 Rovers North Box 61 Route 128 Westford, VT 05494 (802) 879-0032 Authorized Land Rover parts supplier Free catalog Regards, Bill G. PS; Don't drive it until you get threads From MarcBowen@aol.com Thu Jun 1 13:27:45 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 13:27:45 -0400 From: MarcBowen@aol.com Subject: Re: #2(2) The Land Rover Owne... unsuscribe lro-digest From Steven Ballard Thu Jun 1 18:28:18 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 18:28:18 +0100 From: Steven Ballard Subject: S.C.O.R. Open Day, 16th July. Dear all, I have been asked to let people know about a club open day event in July. The event is being organised by the Southern Counties Off Road club ( SCOR ). Admission to the event is free, but the usual club fees and regulations apply if you want to enter the trial or safari. The idea of the event is to attract some more club members. Below are all the details from the poster designed for the event. If you need any more information please mail me. Anyone who can attend will be very welcome. Steven Ballard. Info from the poster: OPEN DAY, JULY 16th 1995 BRICK KILN FARM, FOURMARKS, ALTON, HAMPSHIRE, ENGLAND .Special Attractions: Modified Trials, Timed Safari, Static Displays, Trade Stands .Off-Road Course and Gymkana for newcomers DIRECTIONS: Brick Kiln farm is 1/2 mile west of Alton on the A31 ALL POTENTIAL OFF-ROADERS WELCOME From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Thu Jun 1 10:36:34 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 10:36:34 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: Towing I have noticed the same admonition in my RR manual. I think the ban on equalizing hitches is due to their worry that it might interfere with the action of the air suspension or in my case the Boge Hydromat gizmo that was on coil sprung Range Rovers. The same does not apply to Discoverys and Defenders, which have ordinary coil suspensions. I think you'll find that when you hook up the trailer, the air suspensiuon will magically level the vehicle, performing at least one of the functions of a load equalizing hitch. The other function, transferring weight off the rear wheels onto the front wheels, will not happen, but I doubt if that's a problem problem. Yous SHOULD still use a sweay control on the hitch to reduce sudeways sideways trailer sway. I tow a 20 foot house trailer with mine, and find the sway control essential but can live without the load equalizer, even though the old Boge load leveller doesn't work as well as the air suspension for levelling up the car. The tongue weight you speak of does seem kind of hefty so you might want to look at at a lighter one. The payload of the 4.0 SE is less than the old RRs so you could end up overloading it, but on the other hand the chassis is immensely strong so you'd probably be ok with careful smooth driving. Let us know how you get on -- it's great to have a 4.0 SE owner on the list!! Cheers John Brabyn 89 RR From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Thu Jun 1 10:52:54 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 10:52:54 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: RR Great to see that you guys are into off-roading with your 4.0 SEs. The more I have read about the vehicle the better the reviews of its off-road prowess semm seem to get. In the latest Rovers North newsletter there is a nice review pointing out that even though the wheel travel figures are down a bit, articulation is just as good, and you actually gain more articulation in the high profile mode. I guess the ride softens up a bit in high profile too,m which is clever and needed for off-road use. Be sure to send in reports of your experiences so the rest of us can drool Cheers John Brabyn Mill Valley, Ca 89 RR From Sanna@aol.com Thu Jun 1 14:20:29 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 14:20:29 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: Defroster >Try turning on the air conditioner compressor when using the defroster to defog the windows. The A/C removes moisture from the air. Works real well!! Those of us with series LR's are out of luck with this one. On my IIa I keep a squeegee on the dash. But back to the '89 RR. I never have really figured out the heating system on the car. I understand the fan switch, the floor/screen switch, and the vent open/close switch (I think), but the function switch is confusing. Going left to right, first there is the A/C position. This is pretty clear. Select this and cold air pours out the dash vents and nowhere else. The next one, however, is a mystery. This is the position marked with the two arrows, a blue one on top and a white one on the bottom. When this is selected the twin auxilliary electric cooling fans in front of the radiator kick in, so I assume that the compressor is also running. AIr blows out the dash vents and as well as the heater or defroster depending on what has been selected by the floor/windscreen switch. I am guessing that in this position the system is blowing A/C air on the passengers and heated air on their feet or the windscreen. What good is this? The next position is heat. Simple. And the other is recirculate. This is the one that I think is stuck. With the system in the heat mode and with the vent open/close set to open, shouldn't fresh air be flowing through the dash vents at highway speeds? Anyway, the RR's a real fog machine in wet weather. Any suggestions? - Tony From "Jeff Young" Thu Jun 01 15:23:26 1995 Date: Thu, 01 Jun 1995 15:23:26 -0400 From: "Jeff Young" Subject: Re: Defroster the mystery switch is used to keep the air conditioning from fogging the windscreen on warm muggy days. it blows a/c on the passengers and heat on the windsheild. this does seem like overkill because the rr does have a defroster in the windsheild. go figure. Jeff Young young@mci.net From Sanna@aol.com Thu Jun 1 17:53:37 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 17:53:37 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: Defroster >this does seem like overkill because the rr does have a defroster in the windsheild. Well, this gets back to my other question. The PO of my RR replaced the heated windsheild with a standard one. My windsheild is now cracked & could be replaced. Is it worth the extra $300 for the heated screen? Does it work that well? The car's all wired for it. - Tony From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Thu Jun 1 18:00:17 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 1995 18:00:17 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Log Wednesday, May 31st - "The Spanish Road Bites Back" Despite dry weather and a dearth of mud, an attempt to traverse this 430 year old thoroughfare resulted in the most strenuous day of driving yet. Though dubbed a 'road', this route built by the conquistadors centuries ago is little more than a footpath though the jungle high above Lago Izabal. Remains of the original stone roadbed were still visible in places, but in most sections, the track was heavily overgrown and rutted: it had never been used by motorized vehicles before. At one corner, a nasty 100' drop awaited anyone who made a false move, while at another less-dangerous conner, the Japanese and one other team rolled their Discoveries. "It was only lucky that there was no mud, or otherwise we would have been in the jungle for days," said one of the Japanese team members. Downed trees, the thick undergrowth and 3' deep ruts slowed the pace of the 33 vehicle convoy; it took almost 14 hours to cover just 13 km of trail. Only as dusk fell did the team manage to find a clearing for the night's camp. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Thu Jun 1 17:51:12 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 17:51:12 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: My sick 88 Range Rover All, Thanks for all the replies. Here is the diagnosis, the garage pressure tested the head, NO leak in the gasket. It appears, and I have yet to get over there to check this, that the rad is clogged up with "stuff" the mechanic said that this "stuff" is NOT oil/water mix !!!! Anyway, he tested the rad and found that it is not holding water, core must be blocked !!!! Bascially a new rad is needed. Will keep you all informed, I'm puzzeled, as I have been away and yet to get over there to see this "stuff" Mark MArk From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Thu Jun 1 18:49:08 1995 Date: Thu, 1 Jun 95 18:49:08 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: ARC 95 Well, just poured off the plane after a superb Pilgrimage `95 to the ARC Nationals. We had a super time - the ARC National went off well - some great video was shot in the quarry sites. Met up with a few of the regulars - Dave Bowyer, Pete Wilford(!), Jon Slavin, as well as the BSROA hooligan faithfuls - Hong and Keegan. The National was a great time and the Lincolnshire LRC did a creditable job of hosting this large event. A highlight for the BSROA group this year was the visit to meet John Foers and his D90-based IBEX off-road machine. We were able to see a work-in-progress as well as his just-completed version 2 prototype. We were all very, very impressed with the space-frame structure and chassis of this vehicle. Off road performance? How about and 85 degree approach and departure angle (for SWB model)??!! Yes, 85! John Foers is quite the gentleman and was nice enough to invite us to his house for coffee to see his series 1 prototypes and to meet his very talented artist/wife Christine. Very nice people. This vehicle is the only alternative to the Solihull product that we would welcome into the ranks of our Club. Thanks, John & Christine. Hong was virtually out of control after he scoped out this machine! This year's factory tour at Solihull was by far the best we've had in the three years we've had this event. Many thanks to LRNA as well as Paul Butterworth of LRUK for having us during the holiday week and letting us spend virtually a whole day in the factory as well as on the Land Rover Experience & Jungle Track! There are some surprises coming in the 1996 model year lineup. More on that stuff later. At the Experience HQ, however, was this insane-looking yellow thing which looked as if it was out of BLADERUNNER or something. The words *CITY CAB* on the front along with the LR logos. Gull wing doors and the thing looked like it was death on wheels. I peered inside and there sat an undisguised FC/101 fascia! Looked underneath... there was the FC/101 chassis as well! What gives. Tune into Sly Stallone's upcoming movie *Judd Dred* (sorry about the spelling) in which the futuristic plot features this contrivance - among others. I was told that three actual runners were made - along with about 27 mockups (which were presumably blown into smithereens during the filming!) during the shooting. Who knows, this could be the next *Gods must be crazy!* Stay tuned. Tuff Trax was a great driving experience for the group - they run a good program complete with *special tasks* and teams doing trial gate driving while holding a cup of water and a time/slalom driving a non-PAS Bedford 4x4 monstrosity! I only knocked down two cones and shunted once - 30 points! Oops. Tuff-Trax offers a great diversity of hazards and conditions. Highly recommended. Tuition covers use of their vehicles and a hot meal as well as *trophies* for the winning team. A lot of fun. We are already planning next year's Pilgrimage. At this point, it looks like a possible off-road guided tour of Wales w/David Bowyer & Co.- following the National. We will try very hard to increase the lead time for this event for next year. Thanks once again to the Shotgun and Andrew Cutting for doing 98% of the organizing! Cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! -----From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 02 95 Jun EDT 1904 Date: 02 Jun 95 04:09:53 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: ARC National Rally Back from the Rally and still alive... > who brought with them an ample supply of German Beer, cold to keep it in, and > some plum liquor (25% ABV), which was wicked sweet. .... wuzzat? (*hick*) >rock wall or major boulder). Word has it the only incident in the RTV was >a D90 driver who rear-ended a lightwieght while convoying to the next section. >Unfortunately, the military hitch took out the D90's radiator. Two more accidents to be reported, one at the Comp Safari (spectacular but not tragic), the other one on a public road (not-so-nice). First, a competition Range Rover rolled and landed on the drivers side - driver came crawling out through the windscreen that had popped out. The car lost a lot of petrol while lying on its side, so when the rig was finally back on its wheels and drove off (that's right!) the marshals disposed of the gasoline by setting fire to it and flaming it off. There was a rush of spectators towards the site when they saw black smoke billowing from the pit, and some were *disappointed* that it was *only* petrol being burnt and not a car on fire - go figure. The other incident, a Discovery coming from one of the quarries entered a public road at a T-intersection and either overlooked a (normal) car that was coming or didn't notice the yield-sign... anyway, the passenger car landed on its roof in a ditch, and when I drove past the still fresh scene of the accident the occupants of the passenger car, a couple and a child, where sitting wrapped in quilts by the roadside taken care of by the police. Not a nice ending to a Bank Holiday outing. Enough gore. All in all it was a very nice event, at least for those who escaped injuries and hangovers... Stefan From Solihul@aol.com Fri Jun 2 06:04:43 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 06:04:43 -0400 From: Solihul@aol.com Subject: temp guage woes jssa writes in part, "temp guage reads in the low end of redxnot excessively hot". I hAd same prob with my S3 and found that a ground wire on the knurled nut securing the instrument to its place was loose. Tightened the nut and now its fine. Hope this helps. Cheers, John Dillingham, Woodstock, Ga From "Steve Methley" Fri Jun 2 11:04:54 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 11:04:54 +0100 From: "Steve Methley" Subject: Re: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8?? Me>..You'll get 20mpg from either set... Daryl>Tell us How. The best I've ever gotten from my stage 1 is 15-16. Well, there's nothing much to tell. Just RTFM was all I did. Regularly got 20mpg from a V8 Lightweight on SU's and a 2 door Rangey on Z-S's. There's no point tuning the carbs unless the ignition is absolutely perfect however. Once set the carbs dont drift out of tune-it's an old wives' tale - the ignition does drift however due to points wear and the way the vacuum advance operates. Ie check timing and dwell regulary. Dirty air filters will send the mpg plummeting downwards quite alarmingly. Clearly your mileage does vary! Cheers, Steve. From Brian Neill Tiedemann Fri Jun 2 20:13:15 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 20:13:15 +1000 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: u-joint?? Hi all, pardon my ignorance..... what's a U-joint bill wrote 2 days ago: "pinch bolts on U-joint prior to steering relay" My 77 RR has no Relay box as per land croozer 45, and i can't picture a U-joint anywhere!? Steering force is straight from drop arm via ball joint to tie rod, to rod end on LH swivel housing (RHD truk), then two more rod ends on the track rod transmit same to RH swivel housing. I have followed the discussion of wandering rangies with interest, as mine has similar steering play. I have good (new) bushings all round, and all rod ends seem OK (replaced some months ago). I had decided to blame the drop arm vertical movement and ball joint, as tightening the BIG nut makes a world of difference, and the only lubricant in the ball joint is Fe2O3. I bought a rebuild kit from LR a while ago but so far it remains a new kit... If there is some other possible source of my friendly randomness of steering, please suggest....?(Other than my Super Swampers that is!) thanks Leaks but I luv it... 77 RR Brian Tiedemann (s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.edu.au) _______ / / | \___ \_ ^ ___ ^ _: >>><<< {*} {*} ..........................|||| ..................../ .............../ (Still 2WD *dammit*) From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 02 95 Jun EDT 1906 Date: 02 Jun 95 06:46:57 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Drag link on an 88 David Brown narrowly escapes death ... > My question is this: Is the drag link supposed to have "threads" to help > hold the tie rod end? Or is it supposed to be smooth? Mine is basically > smooth, (worn?) so I wondered if I need to replace this??? Yeah, not an uncommon problem - and a very dangerous one. What happens is this: The tie rod/track rod/drag link (pick your choice) has opposite threads on either end, meaning that one tie rod end/ball joint/ is right-threaded, while the other must be left-threaded. In the life of every Land Rover comes the moment when, at the hands of an (obviously incompetent) PO, the rod ends are being replaced, and eiter they are rusted solid in the rod and the entire thread is stripped out by the forcible removal, or the PO gets two rod ends of a kind (maybe 2nd hand) and at least one of the ends gets cross-threaded when he bungs the thing back in. This process may repeat it self a couple of times with subsequent POs, and the result is what you got on your 88". DON'T MOVE YOUR CAR until you got a NEW tie rod in there!! Stefan From Mike Rooth Fri Jun 2 12:17:40 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 12:17:40 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8?? Er,is Daryll's Stage One lower geared than a Range Rover, though,Steve? And heavier than your Lightweight. Random thoughts........ Cheers Mike Rooth From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 02 95 Jun EDT 1907 Date: 02 Jun 95 07:16:05 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Volcano erupts in Guatemala/Trophy? I just picked up a news flash on dpa-online that apparently a volcano has erupted violently close to Guatemala City. Would/could this have any consequences for the Camel Trophy that just about now should be passing through Guatemala? Stefan From Paul Sturm <0003891595@mcimail.com> Fri Jun 2 06:44 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 06:44 EST From: Paul Sturm <0003891595@mcimail.com> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest -- [ From: Paul Sturm * EMC.Ver #2.05 ] -- You can perhaps help me unsubscribe to LRO Daily Digest. I've been sending regular unsubscribe messages as per the instructions for a couple of weeks-- but without success even though I get a message confirmation. The problem could be that I'm receiving the material via a forward command from another mailbox. The address there is psturm@ilhawaii.net. If you could strike my name (regardless of the address), I'd appreciate it. I am the happy owner of a 1962 Series II. But at the moment I'm on the road, and receiving long e-mail is very expensive. Regards. From Custer wore an ARROW shirt Fri Jun 02 08:24:27 1995 Date: Fri, 02 Jun 1995 08:24:27 -0500 (EST) From: Custer wore an ARROW shirt Subject: Feedback needed..... I am thinking about purchasing a 1968 SIIa. The vehicle will be my primary means of transportation, so I need something fairly dependable. I drive roughly 7 miles per day, 11,000 miles per year. Would the SIIa be a good idea? I saw some newer (mid 80's) Rovers that I liked, but none of them caught my eye like the SIIa did. Any feedback would be welcome. Thank you (in advance)! rick miale unc asheville From Pierce Reid 02 95 Jun EDT 1908 Date: 02 Jun 95 08:56:29 EDT From: Pierce Reid Subject: Gaiters for late RR fit D90? Can anyone tell me if a set of gaiters for a newer Range Rover will fit a D90? One of our fellow list members has a set available that I would like to purchase for my D90, but I need to know if they will fit. TIA and cheers, R. Pierce Reid From "Steve Methley" Fri Jun 2 14:17:37 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 14:17:37 +0100 From: "Steve Methley" Subject: Re: Stromberg to SU Conz on V8?? Mike: >Er,is Daryll's Stage One lower geared than a Range Rover, >though,Steve? And heavier than your Lightweight. >Random thoughts........ Er, sure Mike. There's lots of other factors too. I drove/drive both my vehicles at 80mph down the M4 and was convinced that at that speed nothing much bar wind resistance made much difference. The RR is stock whilst the Lightweight (yes they are _heavier_ than a civvy SWB) was on 750 SATs with RR diffs. Lots of stop-start stuff and cold running is going to affect things too, also the auto box RR's are worse on mpg, 15 ish.....it goes on...Wonder if I'm heavier than Daryll? -- Best Regards, Steve. From Mike Rooth Fri Jun 2 14:15:24 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 14:15:24 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Feedback needed..... FWIW,my daily mileage is around fifteen.I've got a '70 11A SWB 2.25 diesel,which nominally,at any rate,is *supposed* to be less reliable than the 2.25 petrol. Its the only vehicle I own. During the eight years I've had it,the reliability factor has been good,and it wasnt in particularly good nick when I got it.A dropped valve about a year into ownership put it off the raod for a good while, but most of the good while was my own fault for dithering about trying to find a replacement engine, when all it needed was the current engine repairing. Most of the problems have been "engine orientated", and would not have occured with the petrol,or rather if they had,would not have had the same effect. Running gear,gearbox etc are IMO better than the S111, the gearbox particularly is much stronger,but with the disadvantage(if you can call it that)that double declutching is necessary in bottom and second.You will have the usual problems associated with wiring nearly thirty years old, and god knows how many bodge jobs done on it in that time. Having said all that,Americans seem to have a wierd skill at busting half shafts,but even that isnt instantly fatal, necessarily,since if you lose power to the back axle,four wheel drive will usually see you home over the distances you mention. I'd say go for it.I've certainly not regretted the decision. Cheers Mike Rooth From Charlie Wright Fri Jun 2 15:07:09 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 15:07:09 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Feedback needed..... On Fri, 2 Jun 1995, Custer wore an ARROW shirt wrote: > I am thinking about purchasing a 1968 SIIa. The vehicle will be my primary > means of transportation, so I need something fairly dependable. I drive roughly > 7 miles per day, 11,000 miles per year. What planet do you live on? We have 365.25 days in a year here on earth ;-) > Would the SIIa be a good idea? I saw some newer (mid 80's) Rovers that I liked, > but none of them caught my eye like the SIIa did. They're great for a daily driver, if you don't need _dependable_ transport. As they say, it will always get you home, but you may not always get out again straight away... It's usually Uncle Joe. (BTW I found an alternator bracket...) Charlie From vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Fri Jun 2 16:42:42 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 16:42:42 +0200 From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Subject: Introduction Hi, you all out there, I've been subscribed to this list for about one month now. Since I am new to Internet, I have thought it sensible to, for some time, be only reading to see what is going on here. Now, I would like to introduce myself before adding any comments of my own to this list. My name is Bert, I'm the proud owner of a 1964 Series IIa 88 LandRover (ex-British-Forces-Germany, in a specially modified, military version, *not* an air transportable, so called cutaway). I am pleased to see that there are so many Series owners on this list. I wonder if you all are actually *driving* these old vehicles or primarily keeping them for fun, rather like myself, driving my LR only occasionally. I'm more into classic cars than into driving through the mud. (Here in Holland, Europe, where the salty sea air makes everything on wheels rust very quickly, almost anything older than 15 years is considered a classic; if you happen to live in Turkey or in Cuba, you would probably consider such cars to be only just out of warranty ;-) ). So, I like classics, and it is great fun driving my 1964 LandRover, in spite of the obvious arguments against it ( e.g. low cruising speed, high noise level, always the suspension if you are going to make it to your destination before another, probably electrical, malfuction will rise its ugly little head....) Hope to meet you on the list! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------- Bert Palte Roggeveld 25 3764 ZB Soest The Netherlands Home Phone # 02155 23949 E-mail: < vortex@worldaccess.nl > From Mike Slade Fri Jun 02 08:47:45 1995 Date: Fri, 02 Jun 1995 08:47:45 -0600 (MDT) From: Mike Slade Subject: OEM parts I read your post about the different parts suppliers with interest as I did just recieve yesterday a package from British Pacific. I had ordered one U-joint and had specifically asked if these were 'genuine' parts, I was assured that they were and patiently waited for my order. When it arrived I had recieved TWO U-joints, not one like I had ordered, and they were from a company called Hardy Spicer. I called and he gave me the OEM parts schpiel and I guess I was satisfied with his line, but was a bit irked that they had sent and charged me for two of them. I asked why they sent two and he replied that 'when you do one U-joint you usually do the other', which is fine, but I wish that I would have been given that advice over the phone BEFORE recieving the parts. To their credit however, they send me the latest copy of LRO without charging me anything for it. So, what's the scoop on OEM parts? I guess I'll wait until the official word is in before ordering from them again. They seemed a bit slimey they way they dealt with me about the U-joints. Am I just being anal? Also, I have a Kodiak heater in my 66 IIa, and I too was baffled by the lack of heat until one fateful day I figured out what the mystery knob was for. Apparetnly there is a butterfly valve in the hose from the intake to the fan that the top knob closes. With this closed there is not enough air blown through the unit to heat. I run mine with the top knob (valve) open, the blower on HIGH and the water control valve all the way out. Here in N. Utah the winter was also quite mild, but when I figured out how that thing worked it made for much more pleasant winter driving. My next project will be to mount a towing hitch (ball type) to my rear cross member as I am just about to pick up an '88 from a junk yard south of here on a flatbed. Any suggestions? I haven't even started to look at the different options. Thanks everyone, Michael -My vehicle WAS tested on animals- From berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg) Fri Jun 2 10:58:59 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 10:58:59 -0400 From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg) Subject: Re: Questions questions? >>What size/type tires are those? Any clearance problems? I've confirmed that the tires on my IIa 88 are Cooper Discoverer Radial CTD LT235/85R16 m/s Regards JAB == == Jeffrey A. Berg Interactive Telecommunications Program Technical Administrator New York University berg@acf2.nyu.edu ================= Look what happens when you love someone, and they don't love you. --Warren Zevon, The Heartache == == From Charlie Wright Fri Jun 2 17:17:38 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 17:17:38 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: OEM parts Mike, I think perhaps you've discovered why U-joints are also called "Hardy Spicer's" or "Hardy-Spicer Joints". I think you'll find they _are_ OEM. So yea, I guess that would qualify as anal ;-) Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Fri Jun 2 09:23:39 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 09:23:39 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: OEM parts In message <199506021449.JAA10299@butler.uk.stratus.com> Mike Slade writes: ; I read your post about the different parts suppliers with interest as I did ; just recieve yesterday a package from British Pacific. ; ; I had ordered one U-joint and had specifically asked if these were 'genuine' ; parts, I was assured that they were and patiently waited for my order. ; ; When it arrived I had recieved TWO U-joints, not one like I had ordered, and ; they were from a company called Hardy Spicer. I would not be happy in your spot. If they promised you parts in a container labeled guenuine Land Rover parts you should have received it as promised. They should have been able to tell you if it was labeled Land Rover, OEM or third party. I don't hold for deception nor for a company so disorganized that they don't know what they have in stock. I would also NOT be happy if I recieved two of something if I ordered one just because the person packing the box thought you didn't know what you were ordering. He didn't know if you already had one on hand, had just made an order with another company who only had one in stock so you already had one coming, or if you damaged one 'U' joint and the other was still in like new condition. I agree they should have recomended that you change out both ends of a shaft, but the decision should be yours. . So, what's the scoop on OEM parts? I guess I'll wait until the official word ; is in before ordering from them again. Spicer is THE 'U' joint company. They are OEM for just about every car manufacturer. So don't worry about going wrong with Spicer 'U' joints. Now about OEM vs Genuine parts. This is an issue largely generated by Rovers North to justify the higher prices they charge. When you design complicated hardware you need to be aware of parts cost. Its WAY cheaper to specify a part out of a parts book than to specify a part that does not exist. The British manufacturers are well aware of this. Just look at the TR3 front turn signals on mid sixties Land Rovers, along with the TR3 fuse box, the Morgan license plate lights, the Big Healey rear lights, the Land Rover master clutch cylinder for the early cars are the same as the TR3's. The British not only shared OEM parts but when possible whole assemblies. Rovers North would like to tell you that Rover may have ordered a different metal alloy form Gurling for their cylinders. That would probably more than triple the price of the cylinders, assuming Gurling would even do it. Even most custom for Land Rover parts were made by a second OEM company. As long as the original company makes the part to the spec that Rover chose crom the manucafturer's catalogue, that part is identical to one that comes in a Land Rover labeled box. In several past jobs I was a Quality manager and responsible for internal audits and understanding the company's design and manufacturing processes. Most specs that a purchasing type orders from are copied word for word from a different company's parts catalogue. Its a matter of economics. Rover will not specify a custom part if an off the shelf part will work. If the box says Gurling, Lockheed (You can tell I'm working on brakes these days),National, Spicer, Timken, Lucas or other big name brands, I'm confident that the contents of the box are identical to the contents of a box labeled genuine Land Rover parts. Since the same company makes the part to the same spec and ether puts it in their own box or a genuine Land Rover Part box before it leaves the OEM factory doesn't make a difference to me. Mind you, I do worry about some third party parts. ; They seemed a bit slimey they way ; they dealt with me about the U-joints. Am I just being anal? I agree, British Pacific was more than a bit slimy on your order. I tend to go with them for domestic ordering because they seem to be consistantly cheaper than Rovers North and Atlantic British and I have only received OEM or Genuine Land Rover labeled parts from them. I'm confident of the highest quality available parts at the best US price from them. However, there are at least two people on the phone line and though they both sound simular and are friendly, at least one of them doesn't seem to know a whole lot about Land Rovers. They seem to be helpful but nowhere near as knowledgable as Rovers North's phone people. I don't think that were trying to cause you problems by sending you two "U" joints. But that was not their decision to make. I guess if I knew what I wanted I would go with British Pacific for US orders and if I was unsure of what I wanted or needed some advice, I would go to Rovers' North and assume the extra price is the cost of getting information from a knowledgable person. But I would definatly let British Pacific know exactly what I thought of them changing your order without your specific authorization. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From Easton Trevor Mon May 29 10:31:00 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 95 10:31:00 DST From: Easton Trevor Subject: Unleaded Heads One of the methods to convert the head to unleaded is to install hardened valve seats. The theory is that tetraethyl lead provides a lubricant which protects the valve seats and since this is not present in unleaded the seats will wear and the valves eat into the head. In reality this is only a problem in some engines which run with hot exhaust valves. IMHO Unless you continually drive your Landie at high speeds and loads it should not be necessary to do any conversion to the head. Keep a check on your exhaust valve clearances and if they start to close up rapidly then change your driving habits or modify the head. Regarding Tony Yates notes on additives and toxic effects. Unfortunately we can't buy leaded any more in Canada or USA, some more information on the toxic emissions without a catalitic converter would be very interesting. I'm sure we are all using unleaded with happy ignorance in our lawnmowers and other non catalyst equipped vehicles and machinery. Are we commiting suicide unaware? Is this why my eyes smart all the time? Knowledgeable chemists please help. Perhaps we can become envirogeeks with our own pet peeve. Trevor "Weepy" Easton From Easton Trevor Mon May 29 10:16:00 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 95 10:16:00 DST From: Easton Trevor Subject: Buffing Buffing refers to the coming together of railway wagons and locomotives for this purpose they are fitted with buffers. In north america this is refered to as draft gear. Since most Series Land Rovers are already fitted with several drafts, one would be lead to believe that buffing is a natural process and any additional buffing would be unnecessary. All that is required is to move the vehicle at a suitable speed, relative to the surrounding air, either under its own power or by placing it in a windy location. For optimum buffing (Draft, draught) a maximum air temperature of -20 degrees is recommended. Trevor Easton from the frozen north and Miss Golightly warm and snug with a Kodiak From Mike Rooth Fri Jun 2 14:24:21 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 14:24:21 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Volcano erupts in Guatemala/Trophy? > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)] > Stefan > Dont know about consequences...but hot lava could have some effect on tyre life,I would have thought. Mike Rooth From "John C. Sanders" Fri Jun 2 13:10:48 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 13:10:48 -0400 From: "John C. Sanders" Subject: 1967 Surplus NATO Land Rover for sale My boss wants to sell his 1967 NATO surplus land rover. Although it's 25 years old it runs fine and has only 10,000 miles on the clock. Camouflage in color. He's used it around his property as a work vehicle. It's now located in Maine. Any interest? Thanks John From Mike Dryfoos Fri Jun 2 10:27:07 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 10:27:07 TZ From: Mike Dryfoos Subject: RR heated windshields I've found the heated windshield on my '92 RR very useful when out in the mountains in the snow. Come back from a day out skiing and fire up the windshield heater to help clear off any ice and snow that has adhered to the surface. It was genuinely invaluable one day when crossing over the mountains in a serious blizzard. Everyone else had to pull over every 10 minutes to scrap off their windshields. I don't use the heated windshield for ordinary defrosting. I don't think it is really intended for that, and I get satisfactory results with the fan, anyway. So I'd say if you don't find yourself out in the snow, it probably isn't worth the extra money. From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Fri Jun 2 10:41:06 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 10:41:06 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: converter > and most folks leave you alone...it ain't gunna kill ya to have a > converter on the 2.25...and having one will prevent the Greenies from I will put on a Toyota windshield decal before a catalytic converter. Off -road vehicles with these are known to start fires because they get so hot. and You are just trading one form of pollution for another (sulfuric acid). It is a known fact (but never mentioned by the Greenies) that 60% of auto air pollution is caused by 10% of the vehicles... older, poorly maintained junkers. Most of the rest is caused by unregulated diesels. Do not take this to mean that I don't care about the environment. I believe that I am more of an environmentalist than most people who call themselves "Green." I have been picking up others trash around campsites and treading lightly, since I was five. I just know "junk science" when I see it. R, bg ---The BIG BANG will recycle everything. -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+- "The Green dweebs want a world where individuals don't count for much, where all the important decisions -- such as whether to shift the Viper into fifth -- are made in Washington. They want a world controlled by the political process. That's because the shrub cuddlers are, as individuals, so insignificant. They're losers, the three-bong-hit saviors of the earth, lava lamp Luddites, global warming dolts, ozone boneheads, peace creeps, tofu twinks, Birkenstock buttinskis, and bed-wetting vegetarian bicyclists who bother whales on weekends. They have no money, sense, or skills. But they can make their mark on politics because the whole idea of politics is to achieve power without possessing merit." -- P.J. O'Rourke -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+- From "Matthew Holding (AUS)" <100036.2103@compuserve.com> 02 95 Jun EDT 1913 Date: 02 Jun 95 13:43:52 EDT From: "Matthew Holding (AUS)" <100036.2103@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: OIL PRESSURE V8 Thanks Steve, Darryl, Charlie... I am fitting a guage to see exactly what the pressure is doing - this 2wd Rover only has a red light to tell you when it blows up :-) Good advice Charlie. I have already gotten sick of paying $14 a week for air filters so I have a great under bonnet anti rust system. Have tried thick oil - 25-50 / 50 / 60 - all have had no effect. Still runs really well. I'll just have to fix that Landy with the sore piston. Matt. From vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Fri Jun 2 20:06:42 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 20:06:42 +0200 From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Subject: Re: Ser III Charge Light On May 29th, Steve Rochna wrote: > After a nice holiday drive I made a quick stop at a local >store and noticed that after startup the charge light stayed on. ... >Very shortly thereafter the charge light went out. I killed the engine and >restarted it multiple times and all seems well. >Normally on startup I have to rev the engine above normal idle to get the charge >light out then it stays out. Is this normal? Has anybody any insight as to >what my charge light problem is (was)? Seems pretty straightforward to me. I have had the same problem, with different cars. The point is that the brushes in your dynamo/generator or alternator will either stick in their guides or they will have worn. You can repair it yourself if you like to. (If it is a dynamo, you will need a large soldering iron, though). A new set of brushes will probably not cost you much more than about $ 10 or so. Or you can have it done professionally. At that time, if they do it properly, the workshop will also renew the bearings of the dynamo or alternator. Contrary to popular belief, alternators *do* have brushes ! Bert Palte From "Walter C. Swain" Fri Jun 2 11:22:34 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 11:22:34 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" Subject: Re: 1967 Surplus NATO Land Rover for sale >>>>> John C. Sanders writes: > My boss wants to sell his 1967 NATO surplus land rover. Although it's 25 > years old it runs fine and has only 10,000 miles on the clock. Camouflage > in color. He's used it around his property as a work vehicle. It's now > located in Maine. Any interest? I'm sure there is interest in such a vehicle. Can you supply more info on model (88/109), lhd vs rhd, top, and so on? Little things, like asking price and body condition, would also be of interest. Thanks, Walter Swain 1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol Davis, CA From "Walter C. Swain" Fri Jun 2 11:25:42 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 11:25:42 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" Subject: Re: Feedback needed..... >>>>> rick miale, Custer wore an ARROW shirt writes: > I am thinking about purchasing a 1968 SIIa. The vehicle will be my primary [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > but none of them caught my eye like the SIIa did. > Any feedback would be welcome. Thank you (in advance)! Assuming it's reliable, it'd be great. But so would a bicycle, except maybe in the rain. Walter Swain 1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol Davis, CA From "Walter C. Swain" Fri Jun 2 11:31:55 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 11:31:55 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" Subject: Re: Volcano erupts in Guatemala/Trophy? >>>>> Stefan R. Jacob writes: > I just picked up a news flash on dpa-online that apparently a volcano [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > any consequences for the Camel Trophy that just about now should be > passing through Guatemala? Hi Stefan, What is dpa-online, and how do I access it? In response you your question, fine volcanic ash can play absolute havoc with air filters and engines. During the 1980 eruption of Mt. St. Helens in the Pacific Northwest of the US filters clogged immediately and those who pulled them off wore out their engines in just a 200-300 km. The recommended solution: pantyhose. Walter Swain 1967 IIA 109 Safari SW, petrol Davis, CA From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Fri Jun 2 11:37:27 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 11:37:27 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Introduction > My name is Bert, I'm the proud owner of a 1964 Series IIa 88 LandRover > I wonder if you all are actually *driving* these old vehicles or [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > ( e.g. low cruising speed, high noise level, > Bert Palte I drive my '64 88" to work everyday... 80 miles (128K) round trip, here in SF, California. Through Sierra blizzards in the winter, then across the Oregon-Nevada-Utah desert every summer. No sweat. What? cound'nt hear you. Regards, Bill G. From Alex Bronstein Fri Jun 2 12:13:54 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 12:13:54 PDT From: Alex Bronstein Subject: Good-Bye from a Grateful Lurker Folks, I just wanted to let you all know, before I ask Majordomo to cut me off that you are a very Healthy & Friendly & Pleasant bunch, and I've enjoyed your company very much. A year ago, as my wife and I investigated the "Family-mobile", the short list came down to Range-Rovers (incl. Discos) or Volvo station wagons. (Some of you may be horrified to read that, don't worry, the only real intersection is that both vehicles provide a lot of very well engineered heavy steel around your loved ones, thereby providing safety, functionality and long-term value.) At that time I joined this list to learn more, and maybe buy a used RR/LR if a good deal came up. About 6 months ago, budget & mortgage realities set in, and we invested about 5 K$ in a 10 year old Volvo 240 wagon. The 50 $K RR dream was pushed back to 10 or 20 years in the future. Meanwhile, I stayed on the list because on days when life would get too stressful (and there a few like that when you work in Silicon Valley, and have a 2 year old and a newborn at home), I knew I could always dive in my stash of unread lro-mail, and find a stream of positive attitude, healthy realism, and good humor. But it's time for me now to pick a hobby with which I can do more than daydream and read about. So, thank you all for your cyberspace hospitality! May you all be blessed with long-running vehicles which will only break in ways that you can fix with a screwdriver, a string, and a coin! Alex Bronstein Palo Alto, CA, USA From rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL ) Fri Jun 2 13:15:48 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 13:15:48 MDT From: rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL ) Subject: Connection Gone - Goodbye unsubscribe Lost my job and worst they won't let me keep an internet connection. They seem to think I should be working for them to get e-mail. Really rude people. New things on the horizon - places to go, people to see and things to do. I have enjoyed the list and everybody on it. I have met and talked with many good people. As soon as my sys gets put in a home and the local access is connected I will be off the list for about two months. Hope to see and hear from evrybody soon. Roy H. Caldwell 1530 Laurel St. Helena, MT. 59601 USA (406) 442-1804 Roy - Rovers in the Rockies From Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com> 02 95 Jun EDT 1916 Date: 02 Jun 95 16:20:40 EDT From: Brian Imdieke <74051.2206@compuserve.com> Subject: Copy of: Land Rover & Mercedes Parts Someone here asked about getting Mercedes parts at a discount though mail order......I forget who. But, anyway these are the ones that I have had good luck with...... Caliber Motors (dealer) Anaheim Hills, CA 1-800-252-6877 Autohaus (aftermarket) San Antonio, Texas 1-800-226-8159 By the way, anyone interested in joining the Mercedes Benz club of America, call 1-800-637-2360. $35.00 annual. From "Russell G. Dushin" Fri Jun 2 18:55:44 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 95 18:55:44 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: smack-psssst Bill C. fills us in: >Word has it the only incident in the RTV was >a D90 driver who rear-ended a lightwieght while convoying to the next section. >Unfortunately, the military hitch took out the D90's radiator. Hmmmmm. Never would'a happened had he had his radiator mounted deep within the recesses of his breakfast. Might'a crushed the 6-pack, though. rd/nige From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Fri Jun 2 22:53:47 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 22:53:47 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Log Thursday, June 1st - There is no road into the village of Izabal, a small group of thatched huts on the western edge of the lake of the same name. But one other vehicle has ever visited the settlement - a Land Rover on last year's recce. It took the Camel trophy convoy two days to crawl across the mountainous 'spanish road', a route built by Cortez in 1540. "You are the first people to make the journey in such numbers since Cortez," said Izabal's mayor Andres Solis. "We had heard that you were coming but we were not sure you would make it. No other car has been through that road. Not even the cowboys use it, it is so bad. We don't get many visitors here. Every time we travel, we go by boat." The villagers offered use of their lakeside beach for a camp. As none had washed in days, some teams jumped into the lake fully dressed. However, following in the footsteps of Cortez was not easy: the Spanish team seriously damaged their transmission on a boulder just before the village. This was to be the last formal group camp until Belize next week. As with last weekend's exercise, the convoy will split into groups of three or four teams each: they have been given the name of a village on the Guatamala/Belize border and have two days to reach it. Most of the roads are not marked on the map and have not been maintained in years. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Fri Jun 2 23:37:14 1995 Date: Fri, 2 Jun 1995 23:37:14 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Bits 'n pieces WRT several threads...a nifty trick the next time you replace an axle is to take the end of a file and scratch a longitudinal line down its length. The next time you have the shaft out and find the line no longer straight, you know that damage has been done and you should consider replacing it. Wipers. For the late IIa/III units (single motor/dual speed), try an Anco AN-10 replacement arm. The arm length is adjustable and there is this shaft adapter - a little drum-shaped thing that is held in place by two Allen screws. The central diameter needs to be enlarged a proverbial gnat's eyelash, but it's a quick, *inexpensive* fix. Cheers. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From rziegler@sover.net (Richard Ziegler) Sat Jun 3 03:30:57 1995 Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 03:30:57 -0400 From: rziegler@sover.net (Richard Ziegler) Subject: RR oil and tie rod ends Matthew Holding's '70 RR V8 engine is blowing oil into the breather system. One possibility may be poor ring sealing on the pistons. Even though compression readings are good they may be good because of the oil getting past the rings (blow-by). (Don't forget that you do a wet compression test to check for valve leakage by introducing oil through the sparkplug hole to seal up the rings.) The best method to check for piston ring sealing is to do a leakdown test. Compressed air is run through a gauge and into the sparkplug hole of each cylinder. The reading on the gauge is noted for each cylinder and an audio check is made for air escaping at the oil fill, radiator, carb, and tailpipe. For each cylinder checked the valves have to be shut for that cylinder. The sound of air escaping from the oil fill would indicate piston ring problems, from carb it would be intake valve, from tailpipe it would be exhaust valve, and bubbles in the radiator coolant would be headgasket. Oil pressure is a function of the oil pump, pressure relief valves, bearings, and the general integrity of the high pressure side of the oil system. Thus, until you run low on oil you will show good oil pressure readings if the hi pressure side is ok. The piston rings are on the low (no) pressure side of the system and thus problems here would not show up on the gauge until aforementioned lack of oil. _________ Dave Brown has a tie rod end that dropped out of his tie rod and asked if the rod should be threaded. The quick answer is yes and you should replace the bad threaded rod for your safety. Terminology: Tie rod (steering track rod) connects the two front wheels togFrom Brian Neill Tiedemann Sat Jun 3 23:18:55 1995 Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 23:18:55 +1000 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: winches! Hi again, I think the mystery U-joint may have been describing the two universal joints and rubber thingy in my steering column to box linkages.... they have been found loose in the past. Any suggestions for removing play in said unis without replacing ($$$ here)? I have a couple of joints from some late model Volvo... forgive me but if i can make em fit i will, as the spline is the same. Now for the purpose of my post for 2day. I have just purchased a new tractor battery for my RR, and in doing so i chatted to a few people and asked many questions. The result: I am now the proud owner of a Ramsay 8000lb PTO winch and shafts and PTO to suit a canned loser er.. land croozer. Question: Is the ramsay a good winch, and how does it compare to a Thomas? I believe the Thomas is a copy of Ramsay's Design, is this so, and how interchangeable are parts? I also have an option to buy a Thomas, hence the interest. Is there any common wear points or damage to look for? I have pulled apart, cleaned and stripped the thing and all looks pretty bullet proof, so soon in a new cradle and with a little more class , the previously Toyota serving spool may find itself hauling my RR about. That is unless anyone can suggest reasons not to use it....... cheers Leaks but I luv it... 77 RR Brian Tiedemann (S914440@minyos.xx.rmit.edu.au) _______ ___/ | \ \ <<<< :_ ^ ___ ^ _/ {*} {*} .....................||| .............../ ........................../ From Charlie Wright Sat Jun 3 14:34:11 1995 Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 14:34:11 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: converter On Fri, 2 Jun 1995, William L. Grouell wrote: > I will put on a Toyota windshield decal before a catalytic converter. Off > -road vehicles with these are known to start fires because they get so hot. Hmmmm, depends on where you put it... under the center seat might be the Kodiak Mk. VI... and little risk of brush fires... petrol leaks however... > You are just trading one form of pollution for another (sulfuric acid). It > is a known fact (but never mentioned by the Greenies) that 60% of auto air > pollution is caused by 10% of the vehicles... older, poorly maintained junkers. > Most of the rest is caused by unregulated diesels. Your numbers aren't too far off, again, I implore anyone interested to pick up Science (19 May 1995, p.991-995). There are a couple of articles that are VERY good on this. They did some very targeted studies in Calif. and basically tore current policy to shreds with hard evidence. The trouble is, the current policies (especially those in California) are much better political manuvering than they are polution controlling. "Zero-emissions" (despite the utter lie that it is) sounds much better to a Greenie than does "Government subsidy to correctly tune your junker", which is the practical and cost effective solution. In addition, the responsible vehicles are not, contrary to most beliefs, all "older" junkers, or even "junkers". A significant portion caught in the Science test (they used portable detectors to spot check for indivdual "Gross Polluters" at roadside) were not in the expected age bracket. They were _either_ poorly maintained, or as was the case in something like 40%?, they had been tampered with. The report stated that not all cases were clearly deliberate tampering, but that many were indeed. So yes, small numbers responsible for large amounts, but we 'oldies' are not always to blame, because a lot of our vehicles are still running because they are well maintained. The conclusions basically pointed out the fallacy of lowering emissions targets of new vehicles by infinitessimal amounts, because A) current new car emissions are VERY low and B) new cars that do qualify as gross polluters are invariably badly maintained and usually tampered with. The study said that spending $200-300 per gross polluter to help bring it up to spec. (and to impose much stiffer penalties for taking off your EGR valve/smog-pump/converter) would be a MUCH more cost effective approach to the problem of clean air. Food for thought (or stirring...) Charlie From "S.Vels Christensen" Fri Jun 3 15:04:26 1994 Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 15:04:26 -0600 (CST) From: "S.Vels Christensen" Subject: Rods, Ends and Tracking. I was under Lawrence to improve the steering this week so i might be able to add something with regard to this thread (right or left ;-) ). I've been driving around with about 75 degree slack in a hard,n heavy steering for about a year so i ordered three pairs of rod ends. Not original stuff. Rather unoriginal and cheap really. About 6 UK sterlies a piece. The name is ACME. They have a feature that i've never seen on original or OE ends: Lube nibbles. Someone (a Toyota owner) told me that balls can be lubricated with a syringe through the rubber. I don't believe that: When i pressed some lithium grease into the housing on the new ones, grease came out at the top closing plate. I checked behind the rubber. No grease. I expect these to last at least as long as original ones. The grease on the old ones is not grease anymore. It's mayonaise that looks and smells rotten. I couldn't get one end off the track rod so i ordered a new rod for about 20 pounds. If i can get the end off without being too violent i'll keep the old rod in case i hit a rock or a biker. Tracking. I'll make my own cheap, precise and easy to use tracking equipment. At the DIY market they have lengths (1 m) of aluminium pipe. A 6mm should fit snuggly into an 8mm. I will use a narrow pointed marker to mark the difference. Alcohol based of course. Much cheaper (less than 10 pounds) than having it done by a pro. And the instrument will last forever. Note: The prices are mentioned in Pounds for comparison only. We use Kroner in Denmark of course. sv/aurens From Piers E Montague Sat Jun 3 15:44:22 1995 Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 15:44:22 +0100 (BST) From: Piers E Montague Subject: At Last!!! Firstly I thought I had un-subscribed from this 'ere list, but then I come back up to uni for a bit of a driking session and find loads of messages, Oh well! The good news is that after more years than I can remember wanting a Land Rover last week I went and got one!! She is a 1960 SWB full tilt diesel that has been on a farm all her life and has not been taxed since 1963! The whole lot is in remarkable condition considering what farmers get up to, and the price I payed. I have six months working from home to try and get her rebuilt, I am not on the Email system at home or I could keep you all posted on the progress, but I will submit a report on my return to uni (hopefully in said vehicle!). Have a good summer, I will! Cheerz 'en anon, PPPPP EEEEE RRRRR CCCC PP P EE RR R CC C PP PP EEEE RR RR CC PP EE RR RR CC C PP EEEEE RR RR CCCC ----------------------------------------------------- Drink zcrump, Smoke bunnies, Eat lard, Live forever. ----------------------------------------------------- Don't be a stick in the mud, be a LAND- -ROVER owner. From rwegner@fimage.synapse.net (Richard Wegner) Sat Jun 3 21:25:40 1995 Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 21:25:40 -0500 From: rwegner@fimage.synapse.net (Richard Wegner) Subject: Rovin! again, all is well! All is well, gearbox is back in and the Rover is running just fine. After two or three test drives, the gearbox doesn't even LEAK...(yet)! Now that I have it all back together I do have one little question. How much play in the driveshaft is normal? I noticed when I was connecting the drive shafts to the transmission, that I could turn the front driveshaft about 1/4 turn back and forth before it engages. Is this a normal amount of play? Just thought I'd ask, now that its all back together it isn't coming apart for quite a while. I forget how much I use it until its off the road for a couple of weeks. Tip for Dave Brown and others replacing tie rod ends, don't forget to put anti-seize compound on the threads of the new tie rod before putting it into the center rod. That way if you have to take it apart again it will be a breeze, or you will make it easier for the next owner. Later.......Richard Richard Wegner 74 Land Rover Series III 88 RR 4 - workhorse, travelling companion Quyon Quebec Canada J0X 2V0 67 Austin Healey 3000 - for fun! rwegner@fimage.synapse.net - currently under restoration From jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess) Sat Jun 3 18:41:20 1995 Date: Sat, 3 Jun 1995 18:41:20 -0700 From: jfhess@ucdavis.edu (john hess) Subject: unleaded gas Hello Rover folks, I've been meaning to give my 2 cents worth about unleaded fuel and lead substitutes for awhile and today remebered! My general recollection is that these old engines need a lead substitute. I have a copy of Robert Ivins book "Know your Land Rover" (LRO BOOKS, no ISBN #!) which starts out with chapter one: fuel. He says "the effect of using lead free in an engine not designed for it is not instant. It will not 'conk out' just down the road from the filling station but will suffer gradual and PERMANENT (his emphasis) damage to the valve gear." Mike Smith of East Coast Land Rover, from whom I bought my rover (68 IIa dormobile, 6cyl euro engine), used a lead substitute and I continue to. I buy a lead substitute made by Stewart Warner, called CD-2, super concentrated lead substitute. It comes in a quart plastic container with a very well designed dispenser built in. One ounce treats ten gallons of gas, therefore the bottle treats 300 gallons (give or take). I don't remember how much I paid for the bottle. Two points: one, the label says safe for catalytic converters and EPA registered (US) two, it says approved by major engine manufacturers (doesn't say who). That's my $0.02. john f hess phd (wow, really?) jfhess@ucdavis.edu from home via modem Land- -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner! From Kelly Minnick Sat Jun 3 19:28:17 1995 Date: Sat, 3 Jun 95 19:28:17 PDT From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Misc RE:Misc For the non-leveling '95 RR trailer hitch... Does the new RR still use the auto-leveling device? That could be why they don't want you to use a leveling hitch... Just a thought. Stellite valves. Actually, stellite valves are only coated with stellite where needed (i.e. seat surface, etc.). Most shops have been using stainless valves. The are hard and work well, but are cheaper than the stellite ones! (alFrom JDolan2109@aol.com Sun Jun 4 08:52:01 1995 Date: Sun, 4 Jun 1995 08:52:01 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest I've been following the thread about tie-rod ends, and thought I'd add my pence worth. I did have failure while at motion once. Thankfully, it was at only 2-3 mph. So, I replaced the afflicted pair, and returned the vehicle to service. The new tie-rod ends did have a grease 'zerk', the originals did not. When servicing the new ends, one was found to refuse the acceptance of grease. Thinking it to be a blocked/clogged fitting, I removed it, only to find that the fitting did pass grease! Further inspection found the tie-rod end to contain a vinyl(?) insert/cup arrangement. This leads me to believe that what I was provided with were originally non-serviceable units that had been retro-fitted in an attempt to provide greasing capability and better commercial attractiveness. However, the original design prevailed, and grease could not get past/around the before mentioned barrier. Additionally, I had rod failure about 4 months later. It seems that the threads (poorly machined?) on the tie-rod ends were 'hammering' their way out of the rod and dangerous movement/slippage was being allowed. So, I replaced the complete assembly with the best parts I could find. I'll never buy cheap steering components again. They're junk and dangerous! I just about live in my LR, I'd rather not die in it! See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! P.S. 28,778 miles driven in 1994 (typical year), no lead added. In the past 150,000 miles (of my use; can't vouch for prior), I have lost one exhaust valve, don't know why, just swapped heads (good/used) and returned to service. Have the old one on a shelf if you want to look at it... From Sanna@aol.com Sun Jun 4 08:53:23 1995 Date: Sun, 4 Jun 1995 08:53:23 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: Misc >You should feel good if your RR only fogs up in the rain. My '91 has the original windshield and it leaks water in the center. Oh yes, and I forgot to say that my '89's windshield leaks water in the center... and I don't live in the desert. In a downpour I have this nagging fear of the water running down the windscreen and into the dash, soaking some marginal Lucas component. Poof! But the dish towel I keep on the dash to soak up the drips also comes in handy to wipe the surface of my Solihul fog machine. - Tony From NADdMD@aol.com Sun Jun 4 09:54:23 1995 Date: Sun, 4 Jun 1995 09:54:23 -0400 From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Temperature Sending Unit Success Just an update, After purchasing a new 3/4" socket with a hex shaped box instead of multiple points and a longer socket handle, I applied a firm, constant force and was able to remove the "locktite" sealed adapter seat from the head with a only a minimum of perspiration (mostly nervous). The new sender unit fit well and with the addition of some teflon tape to the threads, it is coolant tight. I am presently enjoying the satisfaction of having a relative idea of engine coolant temperature. Thanks for the imput Nate "give me a long enough lever and I'll move the world" Dunsmore Boring, MD USA NADdMD@aol.com From "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com> 04 95 Jun EDT 1916 Date: 04 Jun 95 16:02:44 EDT From: "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com> Subject: Oil Pressure Sending Unit Hi everyone, I'm looking for a Smith's oil pressure guage (electric) sending unit. My 71 IIA 88 came with the guage installed. The sending unit threads into a banjo next to the oil filter base in line with the oil pressure warning light switch. It has one electric lead attached to the top. Does anyone know of a replacement part other than the Rovers North "genuine" stuff that will work ?? Anyone have a spare they would like to sell that they know works...??? Thanks for your help.. Tony Bonanno Santa Fe, NM From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Sun Jun 4 17:20:33 1995 Date: Sun, 4 Jun 95 17:20:33 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: Kodiak heaters in a SIII All, Saw the thread on Kodiak heaters. I have one from the 61 IIA I was breaking. Has anyone fitted a Kodiak to a SIII ? I've had a good look at the SIII dash, and I think it will fit, just wanted to pass this by anyone who may have tried this. I'm not sure what type I have, the core is inside the passenger footwell. Mark From harincar@internet.mdms.com Sun Jun 4 20:09:17 1995 Date: Sun, 4 Jun 1995 20:09:17 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: oil filter conversion Hi all, I went about and converted the oil filter to a spin-on yesterday in my '66 IIa. Total time for completion was about three hours, give or take. I know that that sounds like a long time, but you know how the afternoon just sort of escapes... Anyhow, my initial reaction to this project would be that it would've gone signifigantly faster with a friend (and a second 5/8" wrench). Why? So one could be tightening the top bolt of the new filter mount while and one doing the bottom. A couple of observations: The new unit was from RN, and installation was about as straightforward as you can get. There was a margin of difficulty in accessing the bolts, you need to get one from the underside and one from the top - so there was a lot of need to tighten the new mount a bit from the bottom, then a bit from the top, then a bit more from the bottom and so on. Thats where the friend would be handy - saving lots of changing position. On my unit, the combination of the bolt, lock washer and flat washer made the group fit rather tight in the slot making finger tightening impossible. I ended up spinning the whole unit to first get the top bolt started and then worked the bottom one by hand (if you buy one of these, you'll see what I mean. The new unti is shaped like a sideways 'H' in cross section with the bolt in each gap.) I put the pressure sensor back on first, in difference to the instructions- it was easier to access the port that way. Have lots of rags handy - it ended up to be one of the messyist jobs I've had to do, oil on everything. Anyhow, there are no leaks yet, and I hope this pays off in the form of cleaner, faster and more frequent oil changes in the future. So, anyone want to buy a cannester-type oil filter assembly for a IIa? ;-) Tim '66 IIa 88 SW --- tim harincar moore graphic services harincar@internet.mdms.com minneapolis, mn From harincar@internet.mdms.com Sun Jun 4 20:18:30 1995 Date: Sun, 4 Jun 1995 20:18:30 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: turn signal arm wheel Another question: Does anyone know where I can get a new rubber wheel for my turn signal unit? Its in a IIa, one of the TEX-something or other strap on the column type (jeeze, I don't even know if this is original equip. or not). The one thats on there is very soft and badly cracked and seems like it might come apart at any time. Thanks, Tim '66 IIa 88 SW --- tim harincar From "LAURA SUURN[KKI, ML{ STA1, P. 511 6673" Mon Jun 5 12:00:05 1995 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 12:00:05 +0400 (EET-DST) From: "LAURA SUURN[KKI, ML{ STA1, P. 511 6673" Subject: www-places? Sorry if this is not the right place, but i am looking for info on www places of 4-wheel-drive, off-road etc. Any info you might have would be nice. I am searching for info on buying a 4X4, fixing it and using it. I am also considering doing a www page for a local off-road club. (Local is near Helsinki, Finland.) Thank you for any information you might send Laura (laura.suurnakki@ntc.nokia.com) From Easton Trevor Mon Jun 05 08:06:00 1995 Date: Mon, 05 Jun 95 08:06:00 DST From: Easton Trevor Subject: "GEN" Parts Mike Slade wrote >" I specifically asked if these were 'genuine' parts, I was assured that they were and patiently waited for my order." >" they were from a company called Hardy Spicer" Genuine parts come from many sub contractors to create a whole Land Rover and spares don't always come in a Land Rover box. In some cases the aftermarket wholesale supplier will provide the same part in either a "plain brown wrapper" or a Land Rover Genuine parts box at additional cost. Which package would you rather have? This is the reason to find and keep a reliable supplier, especially if using mail order. Because of the popularity of Land Rover in out of the way places there are many obscure third world manufacturers producing parts of dubious merit which are sold at prices "too good to miss". These parts find their way into the aftermarket supply chain and are often sold as genuine (boxes are cheap to copy too) and it isn't until the parts fail that the final customer learns the truth. Remember Caveat Emptor and find a faithful mechanic/parts man Trevor Easton 1962 SWB SW "Miss Golightly" (See you at Owls Head) From "David McKain" Mon Jun 5 08:49:30 1995 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 08:49:30 EDT From: "David McKain" Subject: Sacraficial Landie Picked up a 1964 SIIa yesterday that had been sitting in a shed since 1977. Too bad the previous owners had used it as a battering ram of sorts. Both of the front fenders were caved in and the bumper had seen much better days. It also had a nice rip down the passenger side so much of the lower body was unuseable. In addition, both front springs were broken and the front axle had eaten away the engine pully. The good news is that the engine only has 30,000 miles on it and the frame has only surface rust. The last time this vehicle was legal was back in 1977. Sorry to say that the vehicle is being parted out. Three of us went in on the deal. One of us gets the frame, I get the tropical roof (complete with bullet hole, this is WV of course), rear door, and front door uppers, and another gets the radiator, heater (Kodiak MkIII), and firewall. In addition, the dual water temp/ oil pressure gauge will fit nicely into my 1966. The 16" rims will go into a collection as well as the drivetrain and other various sundries. A pretty good deal for $700. In addition to this LR, I have located over a dozen LR hulks in various stages of neglect around the rest of WV. Wish I had the cash to stockpile them but I guess they will wait a while longer. Just thought this might be of interest. Take care, seems to work David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA From Russell Burns Mon Jun 5 6:46:04 1995 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 95 6:46:04 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: Temperature Sending Unit Success I have noticed that both my Rovers, D-90 R-Rover will display a hotter temp for the first 10-15 minutes, then run cooler. I attribute this to some hysterises in the thermastat. I have been assuming that the engine heats up quicker than the thermostat can react.> Does the gauge peg on the cool side, or just registor cooler. Russ Burns > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > Did your sending unit work at all prior to replacement? My 87 RR temp gauge [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] > Andrew > Dayton, Oh From Sanna@aol.com Mon Jun 5 10:09:47 1995 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 10:09:47 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: turn signal arm wheel Tim - If you can't find a wheel, let me know. I think I have a whole turn signal unit buried in my box of spares. It would take some looking. No promises. - Tony From gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Mon Jun 5 07:28:36 1995 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 1995 07:28:36 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: winches! >Now for the purpose of my post for 2day. I have just purchased a new >tractor battery for my RR, and in doing so i chatted to a few people and [ truncated by lro-diges