From azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Fri Apr 28 09:03:13 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 09:03:13 UNDEFINED From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... /The manual says 20/50,and while you mat get away with 15/50 /for the petrol engine,I would *never* run the diesel on it Is this a difference between the 2.25 adn the 2.5? My manual for the 2.5 says 10/40. I have run mine on this since new adn, maybe coincidentally, am the only Ladrover driver I (or my mechanic) know who has had no trouble from teh engine. Most round home are constantly in being fixed. I shall continue to use 10//40, not switching to 20/50 till the engine is much more worn than its current 60k. I use teh Castrol GTX 10/40 ever since a long discussion on rec.motorcycles where someone posted hte results of an independent study of synthetic high-performance oils which showed that Csatrol GTX was streets ahead of the other non-synthetics adn held its specification as well as most of teh synthetics including teh feted Mobil1!!!! /mature power unit.The other problem is that diesel's tend /to contaminate the lubricating oil with fuel oil,which in /turn thins it even further. So change the oil at least twice as often as teh manufacturers specs. My lorry gets used at weekends only, so currently it is getting an oil change every 1000! /Lastly,I dont know quite how to put this,but if you got /sixty five out of a 2.25 diesel,you aint got much wrong, Hell! My 2.5 90 wont do that on 205R16 tyres. (It would get to 85 on teh 6.50 Avon Tractio Mileages fitted standard!) /It *will* slow up for hills,but the max torque is low in /the rev range,and it should chunter unstoppably up most /normal hills. Mine used to go slowish up teh Woodhead Pass unladen. I did teh same trip with the rear loaded to the roof with lawn sods (estimated at > 1 tonne). I figured it would be seriously painful going up teh Woodhead, but teh lorry didnt seem to notice the difference. If anything the engine sounded smoother and happier!! /finally,dont just take my word for it.There are a few more /Oily Wadders on the list. Do I qualify? Pleeeeaase mister..... +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From Mike Rooth Fri Apr 28 9:51:19 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 9:51:19 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... Andy, The 2.5 may well run on 10/50.However,the manual says 20/50 for the 2.25,and as far as I know,that goes for both three *and* five bearing engines.Mine was being fed 15/50 when I got it (pretty well knackered as well),and consumption was reduced noticeably when I switched to the "correct" grade(at about three quid from B&Q).I currently use Millers Oils 20/50.Having rebored etc the engine about five years ago,oil consumption isnt a drastic problem,but Millers lasts longer than any other oil I've tried in her and isnt much more expensive than B&Q. I *did* try some cheapo oil on offer at two quid from Halfords some time ago,and it *drank* the stuff.Couldnt keep pace with it. Mind you it felt a bit thin.Back to Millers,no problem. At a guess,and that's all it is,when Rover modded the 2.25 into a 2.5,they *may* have fallen into the modern trap of decreasing the size of the oilways and beefing up the pump.So you need thinner oil,but God help you if you get a totty bit of crap in an oilway. As you say,change the oil more often. Yeah,you are qualified as an Oily Wadder! Cheers Mike Rooth From Mike Rooth Fri Apr 28 11:44:51 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 11:44:51 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Metric hand-brake? Right on Charlie.My '70, certainly has none of these nasty foreign metric millimetre things about its person.Its all either A/F (UNC or UNF) or Imperial(Whit/BSF).Actually, most nuts seem to be 1/2" A/F.Not all,by any means,but a goodly proportion.No metric,to the point where I've thrown all but two of the metric sockets out of my set,and have replaced them with Whit,as the latter become available on the local market tool stall at a quid each.Just need 1/2" and 9/16" now and its complete.There are one or two B.A on the electrical side. Like you,I wonder when(or if) Land Rover went over to the S.I (not Metric,its different,apparently).I bet the interim years were sheer bloody chaos.Just think,THREE major systems on one vehicle!Enough to reduce strong men to tears.Or drive them to drink...... Cheers Mike Rooth From maainc@world.std.com (Michael Anthony) Fri Apr 28 07:30:35 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 07:30:35 -0400 From: maainc@world.std.com (Michael Anthony) Subject: 1990 R A N G E R O V E R "County" $17,900 1990 Range Rover "Count" available for Sale! Comes with a fully transferrable WARRANTY good for 100,000 miles -or- two and one-half years. Vehicle has New Tires, New Exhaust System, New HELLA Raylle 2000 Lights, Alarm System with Remote Start feature, Brush Bar, Light Guards (Front & Rear), Running Boards, Sunroof, CD PLayer, and a Cargo Area Plastic liner. If you're a Non-Smoker you will be happy to know that the ash trays have Never been used and no one has ever smoked in the vehicle! The Range Rover is a Dark Gray, with Gray Leather interior, and has 70,000 highway miles. Off-Road experiences have consisted of only three 1/2 day trips to the beaches of Cape Cod! This vehicle has always been under Warranty and has always been maintained by Foreign Motors West to Range Rover specifications. The transferrable 100,000 mile Warranty is easily a $2,500 value to the next owner, and serious protection against the unknown, in spite of the fact that his has been an exceptional vehicle, as service records will detail. The Warranty also includes Car Rental and Towing, should this vehicle ever "Fail to Proceed!" This is my second Range Rover, with number three to be delivered on may 8th! This may be one of the best 1990 Range Rover - "County's" available for purchase in NEw England, and a vehicle a dealership would sell for $20,000! Thsi vehicle MUST sell -or- be traded-in by May 8th! Therefore the first $17,900 takes it! As a Extra Value we will include a Professional Detail at "Classic Shine" before delivery! Serious buyers pleae Contact: Michael Gaetano Office: 617-237-4950 FAX: 617-237-6811 Home: 508-358-7619 email: maainc@world.std.com From Alan Richer 28 95 Apr EDT 1907 Date: 28 Apr 95 7:48:13 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... >Do you qualify? Weeeelllll....lemme see..... Hi! Thanks for the response to my queries on Diesel care and feeding. Old Churchill (from what I was told by an LR Diesel mechanic yesterday) needs injector timing done, and I'm going to attempt that feat tomorrow. I take it I have to completely field-strip the fuel system to do this? (Drain to lower the level in the pump...) If I'm going to do that, I'll probably get some new fuel hoses and replace them and the filters while I'm about it. Andy and Mike, you were right. Why did I bother to call this guy? Paranoia runs deep... Anyone got any suggestions as to the ID of the fuel hose he takes? Also (on a more humorous note), I damned near spit my teeth across the room laughing when I realized that the Series IIa and my neighbor's antique Ford Diesel tractor used the same fuel filter. I think we'll be shopping together for parts next..... -Alan From Alan Richer 28 95 Apr EDT 1907 Date: 28 Apr 95 7:47:17 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... >Do you qualify? Weeeelllll....lemme see..... Hi! Thanks for the response to my queries on Diesel care and feeding. Old Churchill (from what I was told by an LR Diesel mechanic yesterday) needs injector timing done, and I'm going to attempt that feat tomorrow. I take it I have to completely field-strip the fuel system to do this? (Drain to lower the level in the pump...) If I'm going to do that, I'll probably get some new fuel hoses and replace them and the filters while I'm about it. Anyone got any suggestions as to the ID of the fuel hose he takes? Also (on a more humorous note), I damned near spit my teeth across the room laughing when I realized that the Series IIa and my neighbor's antique Ford Diesel tractor used the same fuel filter. I think we'll be shopping together for parts next..... -Alan From Alan Richer 28 95 Apr EDT 1907 Date: 28 Apr 95 7:57:46 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... Mike, Re: Diesel compression: I was given a figure of 340 PSI yesterday by an LR mechanic. His method for calculation was as follows: 14.7 PSI = Air pressure at sea level 23: 1 compression ratio X 14.7 PSI = 338.1 PSI. He said that with heating effects he'd expect to see 370 to 390 PSI on an engine at spec. Re: my engine: I'm not too sure this engine is all that right. it seems like the block is great from the descriptions I've had, but the amount of smoke it's putting out is absolutely phenomenal to see. I'm getting worried that my neighbours are going to call the fire brigade on me....yuck!. I am extremely gratified to you, Andy, and Craig Murray in the odd kangaroo place for all of your assistance to the new LR owner. I've wanted one of these beasts since I was 9 and now (under prodding from the wife) I've got a summer to turn this into a car I can use daily. I love a challenge... Yours, Alan From Charlie Wright Fri Apr 28 14:05:37 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 14:05:37 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... On 28 Apr 1995, Alan Richer wrote: > Re: Diesel compression: > I was given a figure of 340 PSI yesterday by an LR mechanic. His method for [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > He said that with heating effects he'd expect to see 370 to 390 PSI on an > engine at spec. I would have to think this is an under-estimate, as the 'heating effect' is, I think, greater than estimated and the combustion is not accounted for. I would think of it like this: P1 * V1 P2 * V2 P=Pressure --------- = --------- V=Volume T1 T2 T=Temperature Now we are assuming an adiabatic engine here, which anyone getting 22 mpg knows we do not have. There is a lot of heat lost through the block so that T2 is lower than a perfect gas would dictate. However, you must realise that at the end of the stroke (hopefully) the diesel vapour goes 'bang' (or BANG if you're lucky and have new rings). This combustion adds energy to the system. Quite a lot. Let's assume that the vapour comes in around 30c, from a warm injector system mixing with room temp air. That's T1. We have P1 at 14.7 and V1 at 23 (units). To find P2 we need T2 and V2. V2 is defined as 1 by my 'units'. Simplify: 14.7 x 23 P2 ----------- = ---- = 11.3 PSI/degrees C { I know, I should be consistant } 30 T2 { in my units. They cancel out. } Let's just use the pressure value of 390 PSI that was guessed before as a test value for P2: 390 PSI This would mean T2 = ------------ = 34.5 degrees C. 11.3 PSI/C I would be surprised (even with our abuse of perfect gasses) if diesel burns at 34.5c. This shows a 'heating effect' of 4.5c I would have guessed a much higher number >100 c certainly. My coolant certainly gets hotter than that... so where is all the heat? Even if something conservative like 100c is used, that puts the number closer to 1100 PSI, which I would be willing to believe. Another way to tackle the problem is to calculate the torque in the engine (remeber this pressure value will vary with fuel/air mixture and the resulting combustion a lot). Devide this by 4 cylinders, add a bit for losses to friction, and think in terms of work done. Torque = Force x distance (from fulcrum). If you do something like Torque(max) ----------- = Torque per cylinder = Force per cyl x [length of crank offset] 4 Knowing the max torque of the diesel and the length of the offset of the big ends, force (in pounds) from each cylinder should be readily calculated. This, in turn, should be divisible by the surface area of the piston. NOW the trouble. I think torque is measured in a rather difficult way on engines. I don't think it is measured straight off the end of the crank (as we need it) and it doesn't account for the fact that much of the torque (per cylinder) is going directly into moving the crank, pistons, and most importantly: compressing the opposing cylinder in the bank. So this is physically elegant, but practically difficult. We're back to calculating the work (force x displacement) required to comress a piston of diesel 23:1 (but we can forget about the combustion now). I'm not going to sit down with my Physical Chemistry notes and try to work this out, it's been too long. I really need to do it with full calculation of energies and heat of combustion for diesel fuel. A loss factor for friction and the imperfect seals, and figure the BIG UGLY integral equation with proper thermodynamics... (but Land Rover doesn't seem to bother). Please feel free to tackle my mis-recollection of ideal gas laws, and point out my flaws. I'd like to think I'm not far off, but I may have utterly neglected something like entropy/enthalpy or any of the other great delta-x's I never quite took to heart. Cheers, Charlie (biologist with chemical leanings...) From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri Apr 28 22:38:38 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 22:38:38 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Metric/SI Land-rovers Mike writes; > Like you,I wonder when(or if) Land Rover went over to the > S.I (not Metric,its different,apparently).I bet the interim > years were sheer bloody chaos.Just think,THREE major systems > on one vehicle! (Drum Roll) Enter the stage 1... My 82 stage 1 has, yes folks, all three major systems.. What does this mean in reality? Well whilst you have the correct spanner for the job somewhere, you can never quite find it and end up using the one that fits the closest from any other system.. >Enough to reduce strong men to tears. Or drive them to drink...... Actually you tend to use shifters and vice grips a lot. (as well) cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From Alan Richer 28 95 Apr EDT 1909 Date: 28 Apr 95 9:54:27 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Diesel timing In an earlier memo, A.J. gives a wonderful description of how to time a Diesel engine. However, having the manuals, I think I'm going to try pulling the access plate on the pump after draining it down and go for the pump timing mark. How stupid am I being here? AJ (if you haven't knocked off for the day - I HATE timezones...) Do you think that your way covers the wear better? I'm asking for reference...that and I'm a coward when it comes to adjusting things without reference points. Yours, Alan From Andrew Grafton Fri Apr 28 15:00:52 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 15:00:52 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Snorkels Get your silly heads on, and please point out the flaw(s) in my plans. Objective : to create a minimum-cost snorkel for a 2286 diesel. Method : Remove standard air filter from under bonnet. Attach same air filter to roofrack. Connect air filter to engine air inlet manifold with long piece of semi-rigid hose of the right diameter. Upend (empty) paint tin on top of air filter to keep rain out and stop on-road air blasting in. Problems I can see : Moving oil bath filter up results in greater accelerations on the oil, perhaps leading to 'sloshing' round corners. Drag in long pipe affecting efficiency (why would it be worse than a more conventional system?) Replies eagerly awaited. All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 28 95 Apr EDT 1910 Date: 28 Apr 95 10:35:01 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Gearbox problems > the other one said "it either snaps a half-shaft or the oil catches fire" > Of course he _had_ to put on the brake at speed... The cab IMMEDIATELY > filled with smoke.... Happened to me once with the 109 (accidentally); pulled over, quickly chucked aside the center seat squab, removed the central seat box cover and poured a can of cold Coke I happened to have with me over the fuming hand brake drum to douse the smouldering oil... it worked! Hand brake action was better too, afterwards - it really *stuck* ! :-) (Don't know if this would work with Pepsi...) Stefan From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 28 95 Apr EDT 1910 Date: 28 Apr 95 10:35:48 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Tire size for a Land Rover > Also, is the 4 cyl engine really going to be able to spin tires much? > Maybe I don't need to worry so much about digging in with the tires??? Well, they might not spin much, but in 1st low you can grind yourself in up to your footwells in no time at all (my own experience in the sands of Egypt). Best tread for loose sand is what we've seen them drive on old beaten-up Toyotas in Libya: Absolutely bare (ply already showing) and half- inflated (aka 'Telly-Savalas-tread'). Stefan From Alan Richer 28 95 Apr EDT 1910 Date: 28 Apr 95 10:51:37 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Snorkels Re: Snorkel: Rather than using the original air cleaner, why not use a dry filter from a diesel tractor-trailer? Most of these are already designed for exterior mounting, so the paint bucket would be unneeded. As far as the inlet piping, I'd just up the diameter an inch or so and NOT use corrugated. Actually light aluminum tubing of that size would be easy enough to fabricate (cuts on a table or radial-arm saw like wood) Put a flex coupling between this assembly and the engine, and then attach the air cleaner to that. Trying to be helpful - Yours, Alan From Easton Trevor Fri Apr 28 08:11:00 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 08:11:00 DST From: Easton Trevor Subject: Grammar and Young Subscribers Christian; Apologies. It was not the intent to mock your grammar. There had been some concern about the "adult" nature of some submissions a few weeks ago and concern was expressed about young subscribers. The context of your post seemed to fit with the young subscriber idea. Please don't worry about your grammar as anyone who isn't born and raised English, who can then grasp the subtleties of the language is little short of a genius. I thought it was a bit rough though that you were chided through the digest and this should be enough. Trevor Easton (English born and English Bred, strong in the arm and thick in the head) Vive La Quebec Libre. From UncleBrad@aol.com Fri Apr 28 13:22:25 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 13:22:25 -0400 From: UncleBrad@aol.com Subject: Mojave, D-Valley, & NV run A group from England called Venturers Search & Reacue is arriving in LA on May 23 to tour Mojave, Death Valley, & Nevada. The group will consist of three 14-year old teens and one adult. (Venturers is a Teen-oriented group which helps people and animals in distress by land or sea). They have and use Land Rovers at home, and on this trip they will be bringing something called a Forest Fire Engine, similar to the Land Rover Forward Control. It is a one-of-a-kind prototype built by Hawker-Siddley as a competitor to the FC 101. It uses a Range Rover V-8 and a 10-speed ZF gearbox. Also has Power Lock front & rear diffs. They are hoping to do the Mojave Trail but are a bit worried about getting through Soda Lake with only one vehicle. It sounds like they really need some company there. Anyone interested in joining them for pieces of thier trip? Jeff Stitt of NV is going to try to get down to the Panamint Valley & meet them in his 88. He may get farther South but isn't sure yet. His home phone number is 702-463-2011 if you'd like to meet up with him. I think that a couple of us N. Californians might get up to the Black Rock Desert in NV for a bit of prospecting during the time they are in that area. We will try to hook up with them for a day or so and anyone else is welcome too. My home phone number is 510-687-1188. Venturers has to be in SF by June 19 to catch the ship home. Brad Blevins From srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Fri Apr 28 11:11:20 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 11:11:20 -0600 From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Subject: IBEX I heard a rumor some time back about the possibility of Landrover producing a "baby" landrover model, to compete for the market currently taken by smaller jeep-style vehicles from Us and Japan. I heard this from a newsletter printed by Atlantic British -- a company distributing mainly series IIa parts in the US. Just yesterday, I saw a news item in Landrover World Magazine discussing the IBEX prototype vehicle based on Landrover running gear -- and the possibility of this thing being mass produced. Are these the same vehicle? Does anyone know more? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Stephen Brown email: srbrown@sandia.gov ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From harincar@internet.mdms.com Fri Apr 28 12:32:07 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 12:32:07 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Re: Is this normal? Thanks for all the tips on driving a non synchro LR. I don't know how long it would've taken me to discover the trick of going into third before back into first. (Your talking to someone who's Land Rover is likly older than himself by about 6 months, so I never even *heard* of a non-synchromesh gearbox before I bought the LR :-) ) Double clutch? Mine only has one clutch... :-) Tim --- tim harincar harincar@internet.mdms.com moore graphic services '66 IIa 88 SW From Larry_Soo@mindlink.bc.ca (Larry Soo) Fri Apr 28 11:16:29 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 11:16:29 -0800 From: Larry_Soo@mindlink.bc.ca (Larry Soo) Subject: re: transmission-mounted drum brakes Glen_Rees writes: From usssbkpy@ibmmail.com Fri Apr 28 14:26:11 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 14:26:11 EDT From: usssbkpy@ibmmail.com Subject: BSROA irregularities In reply to a posting from : As a LR owner/enthusiast, I am voicing my STRONG OBJECTION to finding a long posting on the LRO "pissing and moaning" about the (supposed) irregularities of a local LR club. The LRO forum is NOT the place for this tirade - if you have a problem with the local club, pick up your phone and call Jim Pappas (the club president) at work, or send him an e-mail (jpappa01@interserv.com). Since you are no longer an active club member, you have no business getting involved in this in the first place !! From Charlie Wright Fri Apr 28 21:52:03 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 21:52:03 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: re: transmission-mounted drum brakes Larry, you are correct, from the brake's point of view. We aren't worried about the brake, however. It will not snap. In fact its advantage (mechanically) over the wheel brake is precisely the problem. When it grabs, all that braking force is transferred through the rear power-train. It's the half-shaft that's going to snap... or the diff... or the (unlikely) prop... or one of many universal joints along the way. It's a great brake for holding you on a hill (except for the aformentioned oil leak problem), but it's not a very good 'emergency brake'... except in that its use for a panic stop may indeed lead to what you would consider an emergency. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Sat Apr 29 13:43:11 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 13:43:11 +1000 From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Subject: Re: Need LR's in RSA > I am coming to the RSA on June 18 of this year and need to buy at least one > new or used LR. Preferably a 109 or a 110 in decent condition. I will be A decent second-hand 109 will probably set you back R20-40,000 (roughly US$ 6-12,000). At that price you should be dual tanks, roofrack, etc. Spare bits like tanks & extra wheels are easy to find _if_ you can find someone who buys up military vehicles on auctions. A decent 110 will cost you upwards of R80,000 (US$ 25,000). > The car(s) will be used for overland safaris in Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, > and Namibia-so it must be durable. I would like one with an extra tank and If you're planning on extended & tough trips, where you're going to break lots of things like axles & springs, stick with the 109. There are _lots_ of them all over the subcontinent (from British colonial days) and you can always find bits (and mechanics). A 110 would be more comfortable, but you'll not find coil springs EFI computers North of the Limpopo! If you go for a petrol vehicle, remember that fuel is more expensive in the North, cheaper in Botswana. Diesel is cheaper than petrol (a lot cheaper in places like Zambia), and less flammable (safer to carry), but a diesel 109 (with the stock 2.25 engine) won't travel much faster than 80 km/hr. Of course, the roads won't let you travel much faster (on the whole), but you'll get frustrated en route to the border. There was a South African "special" based on the stage 1 V8 with a big Atlantis diesel -- I've heard mixed reports about them: they are apparently very fast, but I'm not at all sure about reliability. As always, YYMV (just to reduce the flame-bait potential!). Good luck, and enjoy. -- Paul Nash turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy 14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA finger for PGP 2.6 public key From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Sat Apr 29 16:25:17 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 16:25:17 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: Interesting message on the list... Dixon: I feel that I'm in Star Trek at some tribunal.. but anyway. Some answers? No problem. By the way, would OVLR send me their financial information if I asked? Don't worry, I don't have a need to know. I'm a little shocked at the fact that the BSROA's confidentiality is assumed to be public domain. Again, this information is available to all members in good standing. Spenny joined the club at Owl's head for a half year membership. His membership kit included two decals (2.00), once cloth patch (4.25), one three-ring binder (1.90), and three newsletters (3.80 each including postage). That is $19.55 for a half-year membership. We have chosen our club format and newsletter format early on. It works for us. Not everyone. We don't expect all clubs to be structured or formatted the same way and none of them are. They're ALL different. Is that wrong? The club's expenses are clearly in line with our revenues. Money in the black is largely due to advertising differentials and/or donations/raffles, etc. All of which we solicit from advertisers before each major event. Without them, we would barely meet expenses. Of our 250 members, we have some 15-20 gratis memberships. Anyway. 1- $5000 on advertising. Please understand (and I think that this will clear up most of the confusion) that these are names that we picked as HEADER names for account name groups. In our case, ADVERTISING includes the accounts media (film, tape), Wearguard (club clothes), two accounts for Club patches and decals, and event plaques and name tags. These are expensed accounts offset by revenues from various accounts such as dues, advertising, direct event payments, etc. 2- $1900 for Travel & Entertainment - again, an expense accout Header label. Includes accounts for renting lodging, B&B's, supplies for various Club Parties/events - i.e. Xmas party liquor, prepaid tuition (the biggie in May and yes, it WAS AT THE ARC!) for David Bowyer's Off Road School - which had to be paid up front! Again, these expenses were recovered from general revenues and/or by direct repayment from member reimbursements for attending the ARC. 3- Printing/postage. Printing costs under Publications, and postage costs (and yes, we DO have/rent a Pitney Bowes machine which we use for flyer mailings - this expense account under OFFICE SUPPLIES. The mailing of the newsletter (external postage) is shown this same account group as well. By the way, it costs us at present $950 to print and post each issue of the ROVER REFERENCE. Please don't try and pass judgement as to whether or not this is right, moral, or whatever... but that is our cost. Our printer is PIP, and our poster is the US Postal system. Once we get a few more members, we are going to apply for a bulk mailing permit to reduce postage expenses. 4- The computer was a DONATION to the Club by myself. Before we were using a general chart of accounts. I have never *drawn* anything back from the club in terms of compensation - only reimbursement. 5- We have as a structure, a system of me, the chairman, and appointed officers. We have not yet had a system of general elections, because, quite frankly (and I hope this will change) most of our members enjoy the Club as a resource for information and fun. Since (as you well know) most of the genl admin. of the club is thankless and consumes billions of hours (I rarely get to bed before midnight), the officers of the club have not thus far been able to identify enough people who will commit the necessary resources to justify a general election. Our general meetings usually resemble UK-style pub meetings. It works. Its not perfect. Someday I hope to have general elections. But not unless I and the other officers are convinced that the goals of the Club can be advanced. I have been an elected officer in three different clubs. Some worked, others did not. Yes, we are growing very fast - and our structure must be able to accomodate this growth. Please understand that I am cognizant of this fact and am always on the alert for signs that changes must be implemented. I also have a masters degree (although I didn't do terribly well in accounting or financial managament - that's why we're using computer software!) But I did do well in strategy, marketing and human resource management. I believe that these tools have certainly helped me thus far. You remember strengths/weakness max/min - I'm sure you do. So, I present my strengths, and try and mitigate my weaknesses. Its frustrating sometimes. Nobody likes to be dumped on after putting in a lot of time and effort. But it happens. And we go on. From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Sat Apr 29 19:47:14 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 19:47:14 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: (electric) '29 Ford & '71 Land Rover in SF Bay Area (USA) :Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 09:51:17 -0700 :Reply-To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List :Sender: Electric Vehicle Discussion List :From: Bob Rickard :Subject: '29 Ford & '71 Land Rover in SF Bay Area (Northern California) :X-To: EV LIST SUBMISSIONS :To: Multiple recipients of list EV : :If anyone on the list from Northern California is interested in :seeing our '29 Ford Roadster and '71 Land Rover EVs, I'll be :stopping by the EAA meeting in San Bruno on Saturday, 6 April. : :You may have seen the Land Rover in either the premier issue of :Electric Car or in Home Power. The '29 Ford Roadster was just :chosen from among approximately 1500 street rods at the Goodguys :6th Spring Nationals at the LA County Fairplex as one of the top :10 cars present by Street Rodder magazine. Street Rodder staff :photographer Eric Geisert also did a nice shoot with the large :wind generators near Palm Springs as a backdrop. It will be :interesting to see the reaction of the street rod crowd to this :feature article showing the complete chain of clean power source :to clean running EV. Sort of analogous to parking a typical :street rod in front of an oil well and refinery, I suppose. : :Anyway, I plan to arrive in the San Bruno area late Friday afternoon, :then show up at the meeting site at least an hour early to unload :the two cars. So if anyone wants to get together for dinner on :Friday or breakfast on Saturday, please let me know by Wednesday :evening, as I plan on leaving on Thursday. : :By the way, the '29 Ford Roadster also has an analog amp-hour :meter which reads as a normal fuel gauge (E - 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4 - F), :and I'll bring literature on the new Curtis unit which drives it :if anyone is interested. : :--- : Bob Rickard brickard@olympus.net : -------------------------------------------------------------------- : Wilde EVolutions, Inc High Performance Electric Vehicles : 1-800 Fast EVs Jerome, AZ and Port Townsend, WA : -------------------------------------------------------------------- : "Remember, no matter where you go, there you are" -- Buckaroo Banzai :'29 Ford & '71 Land Rover in SF Bay Area (Northern California) : From JDolan2109@aol.com Sun Apr 30 08:21:51 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 08:21:51 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Not LR;Lucas Lens Quest I'm looking for a Lucas lens, preferably good used. It is a "glass for flasher unit" on a 1960 Rover 3 Litre saloon. It is the LH side lens. Rover part number is: 511986. Lucas number, as used by Rover, is: LU 54570912. Does anyone have a Lucas catalog that might cross this lens over and tell of its use on another vehicle? Does anyone know of such a reference? That might make it easier to find. Have found a new lens (very expensive), but thought I'd explore this route as well. The old one is 4 pieces (5th is missing) glued together and I question how long it shall last as currently assembled. Replies e-mail direct, please (don't want to waste this space). Working on 'Road' Rovers today! Jim '60 P5 (628000165) '68 P6 SC Auto '68 P6 TC '60, '61, '68, '71 LR's, 88" From David John Place Sun Apr 30 09:59:18 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 09:59:18 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Snorkels The idea seems OK, but why not leave the old oil bath in and just braze a pipe onto the old bath and then run your hose up top. you can seal off the old air intakes and now you have the dust caught in the old way but the air comes in up top out of the water. I would check a tractor shop and see if they have a paper filter that would go on top of the hose with a housing. I think I have seen lots out here in farming country that would do the job. You could use a tractor stack flap. You would look like a semi-trailer however :-) Failing all this why not just go to an oil wetable filter up top and do away with the oil altogether.Dave VE4PN From "Steve Methley" Sun Apr 30 15:12:19 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 15:12:19 +0100 From: "Steve Methley" Subject: Welsh off road, BOSTON visit 1. Offroad trip - not. Well, I tried to make it to the S Wales off road trial day recently advertised here, even went to get some new Tracker tyres for the back to boot. Half way there and thud, crash, bang, one new back tyre starts giving away tread like it's going out of fashion. As I had another Tracker on the same axle and only one spare, I decided to return home slowly . The tyre I changed for the spare had huge chunks of central tread missing and had obviously been running hot. Just wait until Monday morning when I go to the shop who sold me this. I wonder what compensation I should expect? The Trackers are remould mud pattern tyres rated as Q (99mph). I was pottering along at 65mph! Sorry to those who were kind enought to send the map to me, next time! 2. Boston, MA Thanks to all those who replied who lived near Boston and would like to meet for a chat. I'll be at the Holiday Inn, Boston-Woburn (617) 932 0999 for the evenings of 1, 2 and 3 May. I might well have a free day on Thursday the way it's going at the moment. I'd be delighted to meet. -- Best Regards, Steve (UK). (79 RR, ex Lightweight). From terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Sun Apr 30 17:44:30 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 17:44:30 +0200 From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Subject: Shuttle valves Is the shuttle valve on a Series III with dual braking system actally supposed to close of a leaking system? I know it will trigger the failure switch if such is the case, but should the faulty system be closed off? I've just taken one apart, and I cant see how it should do that. I once broke a rear brake pipe, and lost all brakes. I'm a bit unsure about this, the factory repair manual is a bit unclear on this point. If it does not close off the leaky system, what is the point of dual brake systems? terje@tvnorge.no http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html From Craig Murray Mon May 1 12:09:01 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 12:09:01 EST From: Craig Murray Subject: Re: Snorkels Andy I put a snorkle on my 2.25 diesel at the start of the year. What I did was to move the battery under the drivers seat, as the engine bay of a series 1 is narrower of later models, put a 2.5 air cleaner in, as it is suited to using for a snorkle, then I used 2 2.5" and 3" rubber elbows, and got an exhaust place to make up all the piping, and put a pre-cleaner on that I bought from a tractor wreakers. It looks pretty neat, and all up, only cost about $150, as for putting an oil bath air cleaner on the roof, I would be too worried about ripping it off. -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! From Andrew Grafton Sun Apr 30 10:54:07 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 10:54:07 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... Forwarded message: >From mcajg2 Fri Apr 28 14:01:41 1995 From Brian Neill Tiedemann Mon May 1 04:50:34 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 04:50:34 +3400 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: rr stuff Hi all, I am new to the list and have a few comments + q's. Firstly.. Regarding bleeding brakes/clutches, I have found that a plastic 'Coke' (tm i guess) bottle cap with a hole punched in it and a schrader valve from a defunct motorbike tube inserted and held sealed using a nut and o-ring works wonders. The cap had to be shortened a few mm to seal well. (keep these caps in mind if u need an 'emergency' one) Nextly.. I am after any parts of, or a complete PTO in any condition to suit a rr 4 speed (pref. in Australia). Nextly.. In order to fit 9x32" Swampers under my 77 RR I have lifted the body 2" off the chasis. Anyone interested in the how or particularly the handbrake linkages/mods need only ask. Nextly.. I am building a replacement engine for my 3.5. It is based on a 4.4 litre Leyland P76 block resleeved (now just under 5.0 l)and using rover heads, timing case, sump and efi manifold. I have made numerous small mods to fit everything nicely and feed it all with oil, but any suggestions or advice on the engine in general or particularly improving the breathing capacity of the heads/manifold combo would be great. Nextly.. Any suggestions for the best performing LPG mixer/converter combinations to use with the EFI system? Current 3.5 has 2 ring mixers ahead of the strombergs fed by a landi harthog converter (I don't think this conv. will feed a revving 5 litre engine anyhow). Nextly.. I seek any technical info at all on the factory rr 3.5 efi system. Circuit/calibration info for the ecu and flap type airflow meter would be a BIG help. Also anyone know if the Vitesse/SE car computer or manifold were same as rr... Differences? AND is a Lucas (yuk) 4cu 87314A ecu a vitesse/SE or a rr ecu? Anyone ever used the factory system on a higher capacity or hp engine? Lastly.. if anyone needs a plug for a rr ecu then try a volksy wrecker. Two litre combi vans have the same plug as do some Audis, BMWs, Jags and Mercs. All Bosch L-jetronic systems. May need to buy 2 VW plugs to get enough pins to fill the rover plug, but mine cost around $2 each which compared kinda well to $50-$100-"No F.n way Mate" for the other (same) makes. Thanks in advance.... The list is great. BFN Brian Tiedemann (S914440@minyos.xx.rmit.edu.au) Leaks but I luv it. 77 RR From Russell Burns Sat Apr 29 19:43:19 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 19:43:19 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Tails of the D-90 repairs. After getting rear ended on the freeway from a Hammit, I thought it might be nice to get the beast repaired. It seems that the Hammit hit me with a little more force than I realized. The bumper of the hammit hit the top of the rear hoop of the roll cage, even with the upper support pieces. The force of the crash bent the tire carrier, the tail gate, and the rear panel where the hinges attach. It also cracked the fiberglass top in a number of places. It also buckled the front fenders where the roll cage attaches. My wife drove the beast to AAA to get an estimate for the insurance. It seems that AAA does not have A D-90 listed in their estimate books. I then called the dealership where I bought the rover. The dealership does not do their own body work, so they recommended a third party bump shop. So monday I get to visit the bumpshop, and get an estimate for the insurance. Befor I get the rover repaired, I have to inform the insurance company so they can accompany the truck to the body shop. If I hadn't paid all this money for collision insurance I would have got out the glue, and the 5 pound sledge and repaired the SOB myself. I will let you know what the body shop comes up with for a estimate. I am sure it will get interesting. Russ\ 94 D-90 slightly bent 91 R-ROver P.S. I know am a firm beliver in FULL roll cages.... From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sun Apr 30 01:37:29 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 01:37:29 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: gen'l ? twin carb maintenance, adju Bill Caloccia asks.. > What about the twin carbs.... ? > Anyway, I'm told that these carbs like to have three-in-one-oil or some > such put in the dash pot, lest they go out of tune more quickly, and if > they do go out of tune, then you need twin vacuum guages to adjust I've alternately used ATF and light weight oil in the SU's on the Triumph for years. Both seem to work equally as well. There actually is a "dashpot oil" that you can buy but I suspect it is just light oil. As far as tuning the carbs, you use the vacuum guage to set the idle only. If you have a good ear, you can use just a piece of rubber fuel line hose and listen to the hiss from the carb throat. While it isn't as accurate as using a UniSyn it does work. Before you try to balance the carbs, you need to make sure the linkage is properly adjusted so that both throttles open at the same time. You also need to have the mixture adjusted properly and the timing adjusted properly. Then when the engine has warmed up you can balance the idle adjustment. The idea is to get each carb drawing the same amount of air and keep the idle speed down to specs. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol From Russell Burns Sat Apr 29 19:48:16 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 19:48:16 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: D-90 trailer hitches. A while ago some was complaining about the USA Spec trailer hitch recepticle. Their complaint was that the ground clearance was comprmised, and that they could not install a Pinto (sp) hitch on the rear cross member. Well if they had crawled un the truck, they would have seen that the step, and tralier hitch receptacle can be unbolted from the rear cross member. Russ From rclizza@uclink2.berkeley.edu (Ryan C. Lizza) Sat Apr 29 14:19:44 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 14:19:44 -0800 From: rclizza@uclink2.berkeley.edu (Ryan C. Lizza) Subject: Importing LR'S I have read the messages from many who are concerned with importing LRs from the UK to the US. I am also concerned with that issue. I do not know how exactly it is done nor do I know of any import/export company that could help me in this endeavor. I am looking to buy a LR in the UK and importing it over here to the US towards the end of 95. If anyone knows anything concerning how one does this I would appreciate a reply. Or if anyone has ever imported a car from the UK in the past, I would appreciate their response. I know how and where to buy a LR in the UK, I just don't know how to cheaply and feasibly provide for its crossing of the Atlantic. Thanks David Manchester From Mark Perry Sat Apr 29 03:51:08 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 03:51:08 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry Subject: How long should it be? 1. I've just bought a used Tirfor manual winch, but it needs the lever arm. Can any Tirforistes out there tell me how long a piece of steel tube I'll need for the right leverage? This BTW renders my Aeroparts Engineering-type capstan winch - which lacks entire drive-train and clutch - redundant, in case anyone is looking for spares. 2. Speaking of steel wheels for Discos, I noticed in the April LRO Int'l mag that the Camel Trophy Discos appeared to be so equipped. 3. One of the sports columnists at the paper I work for was wondering in his column why the America's Cup coverage on TV, a sailboat race, was sponsored by Land Rover. I left him a note proposing two theories, the first that driving a LR and taking part in or watching a yacht race required one to be a masochist (I used to sail); the second theory had more to do with advertising, and the sort of people who can afford 12-metre yachts to go with their Range Rovers. I pointed out to him that the cheapest new LR price in our town was CDN$33,800 for a base D90, as advertised last week. Mark Perry '66 Ser.IIA 88" Hardtop Winnipeg, Manitoba "If it isn't leaking, Canada R3J 2G3 it's probably out of something." From JDolan2109@aol.com Sat Apr 29 05:17:38 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 05:17:38 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Query resp.;fwd Msg Was unable to mail this direct (host unknown). Sometimes I think they should change AOL to SOL! Maybe Ian Stuart will get this via here: ---- Well, manhole covers are round so that they can not possibly fall in the hole while someone is in there! Square/rectangular covers can. It implies the element/factor of safety. Don't think I was right about the generalization of winches and pulleys though... Jim ------- Thanx for bandwidth, See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Sat Apr 29 07:35:35 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 07:35:35 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: Series Land Rover body panels All, I would like to pass this on to you all. There is a guy down in Florida who imports body panels for land rovers. He gets doors, door tops, bumpers, hoods etc. He done a deal with P.W.B in England who make these items for the likes of Craddock and Merseyside Land Rover. If anyone on the net is rebuilding or needs to replace any body panels, give him a call. Jim Cartier 813-399-2961 Rgds Mark From i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Mon May 1 13:50:48 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 13:50:48 BST From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Subject: Re: SIII Door Hinge removal Hello again Simple question: How do you remove the hinges from a SIII. Simple Ans: You undo the bolts! But we all know it's not as easy as that because THERE'S ALWAYS ONE!! or in my case there's three! My problem is that the nuts fixing the bulkhead part of the hinge, which are supposedly fixed, spin when I try to unscrew the bolt. How do you get at them? And, if I do manage to undo them, how do I replace them? I think that a lot of the series owners must have come up against this one, so all I can say is HELP. Cheers Ian From "KING.B.P" Mon May 1 12:22:07 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 12:22:07 BST From: "KING.B.P" Subject: subscribe subscribe From Guy Arnold Mon May 1 09:06:46 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 09:06:46 EDT From: Guy Arnold Subject: Landrover for Sale I have a 1972 Series III swb for sale. It has 57,000 miles and is very good condition. The frame is solid with the rear cross member replaced and one body outrigger. The frame has been undercoated. It has four new B.F. Goodrich Mud/Snow 15" tires and a new Rover North's exhaust system. It also has a new battery and rebuilt transmission. I recently replaced the hubseals and spacers. The interior is very good with almost new seats. There are no major dents or damage to the body. It is inspected and was licensed so it can be driven anywhere. The vehicle is located in upstate New York and I am asking $3,000.00. I can be reached by E-mail or call me at 315-265-2965 after 6pm. From i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Mon May 1 13:43:24 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 13:43:24 BST From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Subject: Re:110 Mirrors Hi there Had a productive weekend. Put ny new driving lamps on the old SWB and also bought those 110 mirrors for the doors. It's great I can now see where I'm going and where I've been. The 110 mirrors are ineded a vast improvement over the SII ones. It is a simple (is it ever, see my other letter) job of removing your top door hinges and drilling a couple of holes for the bolts which secure the mirrors. I'd strongly recommend it exp. if you have no side windows in the back (and if your not too worried about authenticity. Thanks again for your advice folks. Ian From Mike Rooth Mon May 1 10:50:49 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 10:50:49 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Poor Hamish & Lanchlen's Landy If you were watching closely,there was a shot of the number plate.Its an "L" reg,('72/'73).Therefore S111. Cheers Mike Rooth From Charlie Wright Mon May 1 11:44:44 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:44:44 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: 3.54 diffs/speedo. Here's a good one for you, I hope someone has tried this before. I have a IIa 109 with standard IIa gearbox/transfer box. I have just bought a pair of axles (3.54 diffs) off a stage I V8 (rear is Salisbury, front has CV joints) and the appropriate prop shafts. I will install next weekend. This serves two purposes: A) it eliminates the need for an overdrive and strengthens the axles (I had an old Rover car axle in back) and B) it prepares me for eventual big engine upgrade when I take this back to the 'states (no flames for originality, etc, please. I want a ready supply of local parts and a bigger motor). My question: The speedo will be out of calibration (read low) by about 25%. I can have it recalibrated for lots o' dosh. I can re-paint the dial [cheaper ;-)], but that doesn't solve the odometer. BUT: Can I use the speedo off the Stage I. It was mated to a RangeRover gearbox, so I really don't know if it would work. I would need a series III speedo cable. I think it works like this: Transfer Box / == Magic gearing for speedo cable (X:1 ratio) | / |==[|||]=====================(|) | \ \ == Speedo cable Speedometer in cab. The problem: is the 'magic gearing' similar on IIa and Rangie boxes? If this read straight off the prop shaft, it would be fine, but it doesn't. I don't know what the Prop Shaft:Speedo output ratio is on the two gearboxes. Does anyone know, know where to look, or have 1st hand experience? (I don't have the Rangie box to sit down and count the revolutions, sorry) All input greatly appreciated. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From Peter Aslan Mon May 1 10:20:12 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:20:12 +0100 (BST) From: Peter Aslan Subject: Clutch problems. Before my Mk2 1960 was layed up for about 10 years, I Recall the clutch worked fine. Now I get a Lot of Slip, I'm even having problems taking moderate hills on the Road, Off Road a lot of slip, particularly in reverse. Less Slip in Low ratio, but thats probably because the load is reduced. Is this a problem with the clutch like oil on the Flywheel ? Or rust ?? Will it just go away ? I am an infrequent user, probably about 200 miles a month, mostly off road servicing a small holding. It appears to be the same every time I use it, not getting a lot worse, but then not getting any better. So, any wisdom out there, anything I can check before I have to pull the engine and look at inners Ps, Engine re-built about 500 miles ago and running fine. I'm sure I checked the Clutch when it was apart. Peter Aslan (aka Captain Norton). Louden Quill Award. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- McDonnell Information Systems Boundary Way Hemel Hempstead Voice: 0442 273324 Hertfordshire HP2 7HU Fax: 0442 244896 ENGLAND Mail: paslan@uk.mdis.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From "Francis J. Twarog" Mon May 1 10:43:42 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:43:42 -0400 (EDT) From: "Francis J. Twarog" Subject: Series stuff I'm interested in getting a couple of things for my '70 IIA 88". First, an original LR snorkel kit - doeas anyone have one that they'd be willing to sell? If not, has someone found an air filter that might easily be attached to a (appx. 2") PVC tubing w/ some kind of water/dust shield to cover it? Also, and this is a repost for those of you who have already seen it - does anyone have a nice set of series 2 style vent controls - the turning knob types? I'd be interested in purchasing those as well. I'd greatly appreciate any direct responses (since I find myself missing out on the digest at least once or twice a week - must be my server) along w/ an idea of how much you'd be asking. Thanks Frank Twarog Vermont, USA P.S. - I'm also looking for feedback on the fiberglass top for Defender 90s - I'd like to get one, but I've heard more bad things about them than good. I'd really like to know if people generally find them to be worth the cost. Thanks. From "David McKain" Mon May 1 11:20:01 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:20:01 EDT From: "David McKain" Subject: Tops Concerning my Land Rover. I have been thinking about putting a soft top on my SIIa 88" for a while and had planned on making my own. Galvanized electrical conduit can be used for the frame which, as of the last time I checked, was dirt cheap ($3 for a 10 foot section of 1 1/4" OD conduit) and the wall thickness gives it good rigidity. At first I though about cutting and sewing my own canvas but was struck with a bolt of genius (or stupidity). I had planned on only making a sort of bikini top with one piece of canvas. This would only give a horizontal cover to the vehicle and leave the sides and back open for the summer. I thought that instead of making it out of canvas, I could build it from heavy plywood and not have to worry about leaks (ha, ha), canvas degradation, and flapping canvas disease. The reasons for this top are two fold. One, I haven't finished the hard top yet (paint and new window channels) and need new door tops and two, I would like to have the ability to remove the top at my convienience by myself. I'm bouncing this off the list because I figure that someone out there has used an alternative to the stock hard and soft tops. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Take care, David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA From "David McKain" Mon May 1 11:26:26 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:26:26 EDT From: "David McKain" Subject: Lots o Rovers Anyone interested should know of 6 series LR's available at one place in WV. E-mail me direct for more information. 2 SIIa 88" 3 SIII 88" 1 SIIa 109" All have various damage to the frame but a couple. I think that the 109" is in the best shape. They are being sold as a lot for a relatively low price (appx. $4000). This would definitley be a deal for someone wanting to rebuild a couple of LR's and there would be a huge surplus of parts at the end. I hate to see these things lay around and collect no dirt so please e-mail if interested. David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA From "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com> 29 95 Apr EDT 1913 Date: 29 Apr 95 13:13:54 EDT From: "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com> Subject: Electronic Ignition for Series IIA ?? Hi Everyone, Just thought some of you might have had experience with an electronic ignition system for a series IIA. After almost 25 years of points and condenser on my Series IIA 88 petrol, I'm getting lazy and am thinking about one of those "pointless" ignitions that I use to see advertised years ago. Anyone have any experience with any of these systems? I think there use to be one called Lumitron or something like that which fit LR series distributors ?? Would appreciate any comments regarding reliability, performance, etc. of whatever is currently on market... Thanks! Tony Bonanno Santa Fe, New Mexico From "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Mon May 1 13:23:50 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 13:23:50 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Subject: Re: Series Land Rover body panels On Sat, 29 Apr 1995, Mark Talbot wrote: > of Craddock and Merseyside Land Rover. > If anyone on the net is rebuilding or needs to replace any body panels, give [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > Jim Cartier 813-399-2961 > Rgds Mark I can vouch with you on that, Mark. Jim is doing a *whole bunch* of work on the moose for me, and he is a terrific guy, very knowledgable, with lotz 'o spares... happy roverin' steve swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu '78 III 88 "Moose" From "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Mon May 1 13:30:15 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 13:30:15 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Subject: Re: How long should it be? > coverage on TV, a sailboat race, was sponsored by Land Rover. I left him a > note [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > second theory had more to do with advertising, and the sort of > people who can afford 12-metre yachts to go with their Range Rovers. I I have heard that LR sponsors a racing venue in the UK that is supposed to be relatively cool... Anyone with any experience? From "Lapa, Hank" Mon May 01 13:27:29 1995 Date: Mon, 01 May 95 13:27:29 EST From: "Lapa, Hank" Subject: "Optronic" Ignition I installed a Luminition a few years back, having seen it carried by Rovers North for some time. It uses an electronic eye and a spinning beam chopper under the distributor cap to send spark to the proper wire. I remember the advert saying "as used in the Scorpion light tank" or some such. Only complication to installation is sawing off a brass post in the distributor housing, and changing to negative earth if your car is as old as mine. Hank From bfreeman@heartland.bradley.edu (Benjamin Freeman) Mon May 1 12:54:00 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 12:54:00 CDT From: bfreeman@heartland.bradley.edu (Benjamin Freeman) Subject: Looking for "?" Hi, all a non-netter friend and fellow Land Rover owner asked me to find him something special. So I'm in search of his request, thus your now courious as to what that is. Well he is looking to buy a Mercedes-Benz motorhome. I myself know very little about these rigs, I've only seen one or two in my life. So I'm asking others for any information they may have or for any suggestions were I can locate one for him. I believe he's looking for one in very good condition, since he's planning a drive to St. Louis, MO. In July. So if anyone knows anything that would be of help please let me know. Benjamin J. Freeman 13739-Linden Ave. N. #C-102 Seattle, WA 98133 (206)365-3514 or e-mail me directly at: bfreeman@heartland.bradley.edu Again I'll mention that he is looking to buy but will also trade as well. Well thanks very much for any informantion you can help with. From "Lapa, Hank" Mon May 01 13:53:27 1995 Date: Mon, 01 May 95 13:53:27 EST From: "Lapa, Hank" Subject: Hand throttle with aftermarket carb All, Has anyone managed to install a Weber 2-bbl carb and retain the hand throttle function on a Series vehicle? Or is this combination mutually exclusive without considerable engineering/tinkering? My Weber has been in for some years, gives me very creditable mileage/power despite what seems to be a rob-power-to-save-gas reputation. Hank 1960 Series II petrol (LHD) From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Mon May 1 11:08:03 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:08:03 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: BSROA irregularities I'd have to disagree with this post. I think Spencer's queries were relevant/appropriate, and I would like to hear an explanation. I long avoided joining BSROA due to its high dues, and its (IMHO) emphasis on glossy folders, etc. Seeing an open dioscussion about the club's finances and activities could either reaffirm my decision, or cause me to reconsider and join. -jory >In reply to a posting from : > As a LR owner/enthusiast, I am voicing my STRONG OBJECTION to finding [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > president) at work, or send him an e-mail (jpappa01@interserv.com). > Since you are no longer an active club member, you have no business From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Mon May 1 11:35:22 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:35:22 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: Re: Looking for "?" I once saw a slightly oversized Mercedes van with a westphalia conversion... is this the beast? It was quite nice. The owner was part of the "management" at Arcosanti (this weird place I worked/volunteered one summer which is trying to build a new type of city blending elemenets of architecture and ecology). Anyway, if he's really rabid, he could try contacting this guy (whose name I don't have ;) Arcosanti is located in Mayer, AZ (in the middle of the arizona dessert). -jory :Hi, all a non-netter friend and fellow Land Rover owner asked me :to find him something special. So I'm in search of his request, :thus your now courious as to what that is. Well he is looking to :buy a Mercedes-Benz motorhome. I myself know very little about :these rigs, I've only seen one or two in my life. So I'm asking :others for any information they may have or for any suggestions :were I can locate one for him. I believe he's looking for one :in very good condition, since he's planning a drive to St. Louis, :MO. In July. So if anyone knows anything that would be of help :please let me know. From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Mon May 1 11:48:26 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 11:48:26 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: Shuttle valves In message <199505010829.JAA00268@chunnel.uk.stratus.com> Terje Krogdahl writes: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > Is the shuttle valve on a Series III with dual braking system actally [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] > dual brake systems? > terje@tvnorge.no You came to one of the discoverys I made while installing power duel brakes on my IIA 109. Pressure from the rear most cylinder is what pushes the front piston. If the system that is fed by the rear most piston springs a leak, your brakeless. I think you should have brakes in the rear system if the system fed by the front piston goes. If memory serves me, the rear system serves the front brakes on a 109 and the rear brakes on an 88. There is a "missing" part in the duel brake systems that came into the US on Late series IIA and Series III 88s (through '74). 109s were not imported into the US with duel brake systems. The "missing" part is an 'H' shaped assembly that both front & rear brake systems pass through. It has a sliding piston. If pressure is lost in one system, the pressure from the other side pushes the piston to block off the circuit without pressure. It also trips a warning light switch and a little red light is lit on your insturment panel. This seals the open brake system before air is allowed into the upper circuit. Sometime after I purchased my '68 MGBGT I went to adjust the rear brakes and discovered that there was no fluid in the rear (The red light was disconnected). I had been running on the front brakes only since I had purchased the car. The previous owner evidently put in new wheel cylinders & shoes and did not reset the piston in the "H". I reset the piston, bled the rear brakes & they worked fine ever after. I believe Rover added this "H" assembly to the Land Rover sometime after '74. I understand that the correct part is NLA. However, I suspect the equivilant part from a late MG or Triumph could be plumbed in to do the job. If memory serves me the on for the TR8 has two outlets on one side which would allow stock routing of the front brake lines. Putting one of these "H" parts and replacing all my brake lines is expected to be one of my summer projects this year. I've had one rust through a few years ago & suspect others may not be in much better condition. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From Russell Burns Mon May 1 12:58:54 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 12:58:54 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: D-90 damage update Well the insurance estmate is $6K, for something I could fix with a 5 pound sledge..... If I get to keep all the "bad" parts, I will make out. Russ Burns 94 d-90 very expensive, slight damage. 91 R-R0ver From ScottFugate_Group1@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Mon May 1 15:37:05 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 15:37:05 EDT From: ScottFugate_Group1@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Subject: Query - Range Rover Tech Info Hello LROs, I am a step closer tp my Range Rover acquisition. The jeep is sold and I am commuting in my IIA. Planned for next weekend is a trip to Atlanta and some serious looking and haggling. If any of you Georgia LROs know of leads on a good 90 or 91, please let me know. Can some one tell me what is the proper compression reading on a 90 or 91? If an otherwise good higher-mileage example is found I will definitely check engine compression. While I'm on the subject of RR tech data, are shop manuals available from any source in the U.S.? I was going to get one from the LRO Bookstore in England, but shipping was going to be 30 something quid, so I backed off. Do dealers sell these to the great unwashed? Thanks for the help. Scott Fugate Knoxville, Tennessee 70 IIA 88 From Charlie Wright Mon May 1 21:39:33 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 21:39:33 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: D-90 damage update I think you got off pretty reasonably, considering the damage you describe. If the cage was bent badly enough to damage the front _wings_, it should be replaced (they run about 800 pounds here, from the manufacturer in Suffolk) and they should check the chassis where it mounts... could be bent, cracked at the joins. Doesn't sound out of line for a 'professional' repair. Charlie From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Mon May 1 17:16:12 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 17:16:12 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Nigel's Disease Seems my Rover has once again been stricken with "Nigel's Disease." To the uninitiated, this malady is highly contagious. All that is required is that somone mention some unfortunate degradation of their Rover (in this case, deterioration of stainless steel mufflers/pipes), and it propagates itself through the 'net. Anyway, I've got a set of the "Double S" pipes that supposedly were garanteed until the apocolypse, yet they have failed twice in the last year. The pipes/muffler are great - it's the cast steel flanges that have fallen off. Hopefully, I can get it rewelded tomorrow. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From UncleBrad@aol.com Mon May 1 22:36:03 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 22:36:03 -0400 From: UncleBrad@aol.com Subject: LROA,NA meeting The Land Rover Owners Association of North America will be holding a Steering Committee meeting on May 13 at Murrillo's Restaraunt near Vacaville, CA at 11:00am. This is the first meeting this year. There are typically several meetings each year. The group usually has lunch at the restaraunt, each person paying for his own. Any members interested are invited to attend. Members will be discussing the direction of the club for this year and what it is going to take to get there. As is the case with every club, there is always room for people who would like to help out. Whether you are one of those people or not, you are welcome to attend. If you would like to attend the meeting, feel free to give me a call at 510-687-1188 and I will give you more specific directions. Brad Blevins From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Wed May 3 17:25:31 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 17:25:31 -0500 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Rattle and Hum Thought I'd throw this one out to the list which, by the way, must be down for maintenance or something. Anyway, my SRIIA 88 has some strange sounds coming from it...sounds that haven't been there before. Here's what happens: At the bottom of each gear at low revs, I'm hearing a metalic-like rattle (kinda like something's loose). As the revs get higher the rattle disappears. It appears to be coming from the back of the motor right below the transmission hump (Of course, I'm the same guy who changed the front drive axle on my VW to get rid of a squeak which turned out to be the rear emergency brake cable) Is my engine going to blow up? Is this a clutch going bad? Chris Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From "David McKain" Thu May 4 13:45:52 1995 Date: Thu, 4 May 1995 13:45:52 EDT From: "David McKain" Subject: BRLRC Parkersburg Meet I would like to know wether anyone out there in cyberspace is going to the BRLRC off-road meet in Parkersburg, WV this weekend. If you need information on the event please e-mail direct. This should be a serious off-road trip considering the amount of rain in the area and the famous red clay of the area. The organizers expect over 40 land rovers to attend and, as a side, both the organizer and one of the attendees are beer distributors (Guiness for all). See you there David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA From David John Place Wed May 3 16:49:03 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 16:49:03 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Series stuff For the snorkel top piece (filter) go to what we up in Canada call a "speed" shop and get a single barrel chrome air filter housing commonly use on the Rochester carbs of the 1960s. It comes with a paper filter and it will fit inside the same diameter hose the Land Rover uses on the oil bath. For hose you can use the cloths dryer type with the spring interior support and plastic outer layer but you will have to go to a store that sells heater duct since dryer vent hose is too large. Stainless clamps will complete the job. You can clamp a piece of stainless into the top clamp that fits into the small elongated slot on the rain gutter just over the drivers front window. I mentioned to someone else on the net that the old Ser I oil bath with the side mounted air intake pipe would make a great filter at the bottom of all this. It has an outlet hose and a side mounted inlet pipe. Dave VE4PN From Charlie Wright Wed May 3 19:27:06 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 19:27:06 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Speedo I think we have a server problem, but here goes. Using the calculation Daryl provided, R1/4.7*3.54=R2, I find that I need a speedometer with a 1060 ratio. Now, is there a way to find out what used what as far as old speedometers go? I didn't see it as a FAQ (I doubt it would or should be). Cheers, Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From afpgreg@gatekeeper.ddp.state.me.us (Paul V. Gregory) Wed May 3 15:47:27 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 15:47:27 -0400 From: afpgreg@gatekeeper.ddp.state.me.us (Paul V. Gregory) Subject: 88" P.U.Cab brace Attention U.K. Rover bretherin (or sisterin).... Anyone nearby Craddocks or another reputable Land Rover boneyard willing to ring up and inquire whether the following part for my '65 88" is available: Part no. 330767. This is a brace which supports the rear of a pick-up cab as attached on an 88". Before resorting to costly fabrication, I was wondering if I could still bag the genuine article. Also, kudos to fellow LROnetters Tom Rowe and Tom Spoto in the States, Dixon Kenner in Canada who have been invaluably helpful by their guidance in this this matter. Thanks guys. --Paul, in Maine where blackflies are now workin' up an appetite. From Alan Richer 4 95 May EDT 1908 Date: 4 May 95 8:18:15 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Where can I buy an Acoustikit in the US? Greetings to the aluminum assemblage... In speaking with another august member of this group, I learned of a wondrous thing called an Acoustikit - adhesive sound-deadening pads for Land Rovers. As the Diesel pickup I'm working on is to be my daily driver and I want to retain what's left of my hearing...8*), I would really like to purchase one of these kits, or materials to make one. Anybody? Yours, Alan From REDCO@aol.com Wed May 3 21:50:13 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 21:50:13 -0400 From: REDCO@aol.com Subject: unsubscribe lro digest unsubscribe lro digest From David John Place Wed May 3 17:04:36 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 17:04:36 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Austin Parts Since so many parts of the Austin Marina fit Land Rover and I suspect for less money, does anyone out there know of a specialty source of Austin Parts preferably in N.A. but U.K. would be OK as well. Dave VE4PN From Sekerere@aol.com Wed May 3 23:01:42 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 23:01:42 -0400 From: Sekerere@aol.com Subject: no LRO digest No LRO digest has been delivered since last Friday (April 28). Is this something abnormal??????? Cheers Chris From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Thu May 04 19:47:19 1995 Date: Thu, 04 May 95 19:47:19 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: def 90 4 sale Def 90 for sale lhd 2.5 diesel soft top, road legal in Canada 10.5k 4 info e mail name and phone number and fax for details -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | OttawFrom carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) Fri May 5 00:57:04 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 00:57:04 -0700 From: carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) Subject: Troubleshooting Gear Grinding My '66 IIa frequently grinds going into 1st,2nd or reverse. I'd appreciate any experienced advice on the next step to persue. Here's the case: Both master & slave cylinder appear to be in good shape (no leaks, etc.). The local LR mechanic adjusted both the pedal and slave, but (to his surprise) the problem persists. The known facts: * when the engine's cold, gears engage OK. After warming up, it can verge on impossible. * Sometimes 3rd is hard to find: doesn't grind, just won't go. * oil leaks from the flywheel drain hole. I'm not certain if it's 90-weight from the tranny or engine oil from the rear main seal. Is the release mechanism (throwout bearing) the most likely cause, or is should I look more at the hydraulics? Or might it be the tranny itself? What's the best way to tell if I need clutch work or cylinder work without trial and error? Thanks, CJC From terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Thu May 05 10:22:34 1994 Date: Thu, 05 May 1994 10:22:34 +0200 From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Subject: Re: Shuttle valve >The "missing" part is an 'H' shaped assembly >that both front & rear brake systems pass through. It has a sliding piston. If >pressure is lost in one system, the pressure from the other side pushes the >piston to block off the circuit without pressure. It also trips a warning light >switch and a little red light is lit on your insturment panel. This seals the >open brake system before air is allowed into the upper circuit. The 'H' shaped assembly you are speaking of is indeed the aforementioned shuttle valve, I believe. Mine does indeed have a sliding piston and a warning light switch. Now, my point is that the very design of this part does not seem to enable it to do anything but trip the switch. The ends of the pistons are not designed to close off the faulty brake system! Also, the service manual makes no mention of such a capability, merely that the warning light should be tripped. Can't really see the point of such a gadget though... I usually notice when there are no brakes left :-) Terje Krogdahl 1972 88" SIII terje@tvnorge.no http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html From Andrew Grafton Fri May 5 10:01:44 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 10:01:44 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: SIII 109" Differentials Hiya! The time has come to think about getting rid of the play in the diffs of our SIII 109" diesel. The axles are standard with a Salisbury on the rear and the usual one on the front. Play in the diffs is about 45 degrees on the rear and 35 on the front. The figure is rotation of the propshaft with both wheels held. I think that's excessive, but correct me if I'm wrong. The diff input/output shaft seal has gone on both front and rear, and I guess the excessive wear is due to the previous owner running the diffs with no oil in. The rear diff gets to dangerously-low-oil-level within about 350 miles of being topped up. Enquiries suggest that you need a hydraulic spreading device to dismantle the diffs and that it is cheaper (UK) just to go out and buy a complete second hand axle. Any comments? I'd be particularly interested to find out why the diffs are so badly worn, esp. the front one, as I can't imagine it was under load for anything like the percentage of time the rear one was... Any suggestions? The LR is '82 and otherwise in extremely good condition. No idea how many miles it's done but it has had a replacement engine at some stage. All the best and thanks for any advice you can offer, Andy From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri May 5 20:17:26 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 20:17:26 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: SIII 109" Differentials Well looks like we're back on line after a few days :-) Andy writes: > Enquiries suggest that you need a hydraulic spreading > device to dismantle the diffs and that it is cheaper > (UK) just to go out and buy a complete second hand axle. I cant see how you would need a spreader for the front. Supposedly you do for the rear but I've never found anyone who had one, not even dealers. When I pulled the centre out of my salisbury to fit the diff lock I did it with two tyre levers, made sure I kept all of the shims from each side seperate and gentle pushed the whole shebang back in with a rubber mallet. (Of course I dont recommend anyone else do this.....) The diff in question is from a '72/73 ute and has since done at least 120K miles in two different vehicles, one with a worked 3.3L six conversion the other 3.5 V8. I pulled it out in '86 the bearings were a bit scuffed but basically ok then. Its just starting to whine a bit now but only if you sit in te back and really listen. > Any comments? Before you strip out the diffs check the axles and flange splines, these do wear and can become quite a mess, particularly the driven flanges. I've seen them completely stripped out..... This may well be a large part of your problem, and a whole heap cheaper than new diffs.... If you can find them I'd try to fit leather pinion seals, I had all sorst of problems with the rear diff chewing out pinion flanges and seals about every 12-18 months. Some other LR owner suggested the leather type seals. More expensive but I havent fitted a pinion seal in.... Rear 9 years (when the diff lock went in) front.. ah..7 or 8. The front gets a bit damp but doesnt leak as such.. Of course YMMV -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From 05 95 May EDT 1907 Date: 05 May 95 07:27:13 EDT From: Subject: Green Lanes & UCR's Croeso, Can anyone help me with an update of Green Lanes & UCR's in Mid Wales, around the Brecon area. I have driven some of the un-surfaced roads in this area for some years, but I am getting conflicting reports from (friendly) locals & other authorities as to which roads are open or closed to vehicles. i.e.The Gap Road - locals say closed, Green Lane Guru says open. The Talybont Road - does this have a TRO or Voluntary restraint. The Sarn Helen - National Park Warden says you cannot drive across the common near the Mountain Centre ? true or false? also, what is the situation down by the open cast coal mine? Since it is awkward for me to get down to the local Rights of Way Office I would appreciate any assistance in updating up my maps. Any offers of help gratefully appreciated, Glenn From Richard Jones Fri May 5 13:30:10 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 13:30:10 +0100 (BST) From: Richard Jones Subject: Re: Top Gear - Judge Dredd (fwd) Haas writes: > I have to admit I was disappointed in Top Gear's coverage - but this is a > general trend. It seems to me that about 2 or 3 year's ago the program began to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > prosaic of the majority of cars reviewed. Did this change coincide with the > departure of William Woolard, I wonder? No the departure of Tom Ross (former Producer). -- _ __ Apricot Computer Limited ' ) ) / 3500 Parkside Tel: (+44) 121 717 7171 /--' o _. /_ Birmingham Business Park Fax: (+44) 121 717 0123 / \_<_(__/ <_ BIRMINGHAM B37 7YS Richard Jones United Kingdom Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk From Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 05 95 May EDT 1908 Date: 05 May 95 08:46:29 EDT From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Trailer Hitch Russ: I use my D90 for towing a U.S. Army M-416 utility trailer (for some reason, I can't bring myself to fill the back with manure yet) which uses a NATO-spec pintle hitch. This works great for a couple of reasons... one is strength the other is ability to function off-road. There is a great picture of a 109 towing an M-416 in the latest Aluminum Workhorse, BTW. My solution to the D90 hitch (which is mounted too LOW for a useful off-road trailer which has it's neck about 20" off the ground) was to buy a J.C. Whitney adapter ($40) that plugs into the Class III box but has a plate on the end to mount a pintle. You pull a pin and the whole unit pulls out of the back for storage and leaves your ground clearance in good shape. You can even pull the whole step bumperette off, but I doubt I'll do that any time soon. I just finished restoring my NATO Pintle (so it would not look out of place on shiny D90) and the mount is perfect. Nice thing about this particular pintle is that it is *made* for off-road use and when you pull a pin out it rotates 360 degrees, allowing your trailer to follow you into some really hairy places. I have had it behind my 88 in places that would have ripped a ball right off. The final benefit is that the massive hunk of black metal, protruding several inches further out than the spare has managed to be intimidating enough to keep the &*)^ little skateboard cars from tailgating as much. Sorry to hear about your D90... Hope it gets back together soon. Cheers, Pierce From maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Fri May 05 06:49:52 1995 Date: Fri, 05 May 1995 06:49:52 -0400 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Subject: Re: Chris's Gearbox problems Let's see if this list is working now; Chris asked re gearbox problems: >My '66 IIa frequently grinds going into 1st,2nd or reverse. I'd appreciate >any experienced advice on the next step to persue. Since there is no syncro in any of these gears mentioned, this isn't that unusual if you aren't matching the gear-engine speeds and double clutching when shifting or shifting quicky. >* when the engine's cold, gears engage OK. After warming up, it can verge >on impossible. Just a shot in the dark, but maybe the flex hose is expanding once it gets warmed up, or the clutch master or slave seals fail when warm. >* oil leaks from the flywheel drain hole. I'm not certain if it's 90-weight >from the tranny or engine oil from the rear main seal. Touch your finger to it and smell it. Gear oil has a funky sulphury smell. Engine oil smells like, well engine oil. Good luck! Bill maloney@wings.atmail.com From Mail Delivery Subsystem <"vbormc::mailer-daemon"@essb.enet.dec.com> Fri May 5 14:59:45 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 14:59:45 MET DST From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <"vbormc::mailer-daemon"@essb.enet.dec.com> Subject: Returned mail: Service unavailable ----- Transcript of session follows ----- While talking to theyak.ilo.dec.com: >>> DATA <<< 552 Mail Action aborted - exceeded storage allocation 554 ... Service unavailable ----- Recipients of this delivery ----- Bounced, cannot deliver: ----- Unsent message follows ----- [deleted] From "Francis J. Twarog" Fri May 5 09:23:21 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 09:23:21 -0400 (EDT) From: "Francis J. Twarog" Subject: Returned mail: Remote protocol error (fwd) This message is in MIME format. The first part should be readable text, while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools. Send mail to mime@docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info. --QCT22169.799618355/transfer.stratus.com Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From Mike Slade Fri May 05 09:02:00 1995 Date: Fri, 05 May 1995 09:02:00 -0600 (MDT) From: Mike Slade Subject: Transmission ????'s Hi all, Perhaps some of you will recall that I am having a LR produced for me by a company back east. Well, it has been offered as an option to me as to what kind of transmission is going to be put in this vehicle (coil sprung 110, V8). My wife and I are leaning towards the automatic ZF transmission as offered in the Discovery. Initially I was hesitant to agree to an automatic, being raised on manual transmissions. After test driving a Disco with the 4-speed automatic I was pretty much sold on it. Taking into account this is going to be a RHD, and we are expecting our first child this July we thought it would just be easier all around to have an automatic. However- after reading various posts on the list regarding the fail-rate of the Disco tranny I am having serious second thoughts. Are the posts I'm reading just the normal fail-rate for a mass produced item like a transmission, or are there serious defects I should know about before making my choice? I, for one, know that I could switch to RHD manual tranny (it would be the 5 speed offered in teh 110/90), with no problems, and a wondering if it will just be better in the long run to get the 5-speed. If anyone has any information regarding the ZF tranny offered in the Disco and how it will perform in the long run, I would be very appreciative. Also, if anyone has info on the dependability of the 5-speed in the 110/90, that would also be a tremendous help. thanks, Michael PS '66 88 Still for sale From "Guzelis.Pete" 5 1995 May U 1908 Date: 5 May 1995 08:04:59 U From: "Guzelis.Pete" Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest I'm about to purchase a winch for my '94 Disco. Am working on a source for a front mounted receiver unit. I know that Warn makes one but they want $175 US which seems a little stiff. I like the idea of the portability of a removable winch (I think). Can use on the back end if I ever need to pull myself out backwwards. Any pitfalls? Ideas appreciated. Thanks. I live in sunny (Ha Ha) Long Beach, Ca. _______________________________________________________________________________ From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Fri May 5 09:05 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 09:05 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: More questions from a Newer Owner I have enjoyed my Land Rover for a month now, and I have come to love it! I do have a few questions about it. 1. When I go to the store to get gear oil, they have 75W-90, or 85W-140, or something else like that. What should I use? Which brands are best? What about synthetics? 2. I got a flat in one of the tires. The man at the tire store noticed there were inner tubes in all my tires. He said off road it is better not to have tubes. The PO said he put tubes in because he thought it was better for off road. What is you experience? 3. What do you do to people who think your new toy is a Toy-ota? (Even the insurance company thought so at first. They finally decided to call it a Range Rover.) 4. My father wants me to get a rear PTO so I can bush hog his farm. How feasible is this? (I would rather have an overdrive, and I know they are mutually exclusive options). I experienced joy the first day I drove to work. I passed a convoy of two Discoverys and a Range Rover. Got enthusiastic waves from all of them. I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my local USGS topo map. I spent most of the day after work yesterday working on that, and found some barely accessible places that looked like great campsites. I love this vehicle! James Howard 1972 SIII Flagstaff, Arizona, USA From grea@virgo.net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) Fri May 5 09:29:10 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 09:29:10 PDT From: grea@virgo.net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) Subject: 51 Series I for sale Posted this on Tuesday but got bounced. Not sure if it has been sold or not since then. From Russell Burns Fri May 5 10:04:45 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 10:04:45 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > 85W-140, or something else like that. What should I use? Which > brands are best? What about synthetics? I think the theory is the thinnest oil that will not leak out over night. In the winter a heaver weight is better, and lighter in the summer. Synthetics work well in wet locations. I think the synth runs out faster than the water can run in. If you can keep it off the garage floor, and can afford it synthetics are the best > 2. I got a flat in one of the tires. The man at the tire store > noticed there were inner tubes in all my tires. He said off road it > is better not to have tubes. The PO said he put tubes in because he > thought it was better for off road. What is you experience? Air, lots of it is the important item to keep in your tires. > 3. What do you do to people who think your new toy is a Toy-ota? (Even > the insurance company thought so at first. They finally decided to > call it a Range Rover.) > thought it was better for off road. What is you experience? I ran into that problem a AAA trying to get some dents out of my d-90. Since they have the checkbook, it is probably better that they don't know what it is. (they can`t make an estimate) > 3. What do you do to people who think your new toy is a Toy-ota? (Even ooj > 4. My father wants me to get a rear PTO so I can bush hog his farm. > How feasible is this? (I would rather have an overdrive, and I know > they are mutually exclusive options). Dealing with my father is also mutually exclusive, but I would just tell him to buy his own land rover.... > I experienced joy the first day I drove to work. I passed a convoy of > two Discoverys and a Range Rover. Got enthusiastic waves from all of > them. > thought it was better for off road. What is you experience? Must have been a Rover Ralley > I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my > local USGS topo map. I spent most of the day after work yesterday > working on that, and found some barely accessible places that looked > like great campsites. I love this vehicle! I also have camped in some barely accessible places. At least that is what I try to tell my friends when it takes a couple of days to extract my truck... > James Howard > 1972 SIII > Flagstaff, Arizona, USA > like great campsites. I love this vehicle! Welcome to the group. Just don't pay too much attention us. After all it is not every truck that will continue to run after a bunch of stupid home mechanics spend all weekend rebuilding something that they vaguely understand.... Russ Burns 94 D-90 91 R-Rover From harincar@internet.mdms.com Fri May 5 12:18:32 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 12:18:32 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner > I have enjoyed my Land Rover for a month now, and I have come to love > it! I do have a few questions about it. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > the insurance company thought so at first. They finally decided to > call it a Range Rover.) Ooh! I hope they don't base your insurance on Range Rovers. That might be like having your Ford pick up insurance based on Explorers. More expensive vehicle = more expensive insurance. I'd check this, my insurance (Allstate) had a separate catagory for Land Rovers. I had the reverse problem when I had a 'Cruiser - everyone thought it was a Rover. So I bought a Rover - problem solved :-) > I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my > local USGS topo map. I spent most of the day after work yesterday > working on that, and found some barely accessible places that looked > like great campsites. I love this vehicle! How do you volunteer for this? Can anyone/anywhere (in the US)? Info please. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@internet.mdms.com '66 IIa 88 SW moore graphic services From rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL ) Fri May 5 11:04:18 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 11:04:18 MDT From: rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL ) Subject: OD-PTO and Winches Just picked up a used Fairey OD and a Koenig PTO along with and option on a Koenig PTO Winch Mod LR-592. I am looking at mounting all this jazz. The winch came off a 60 Series II 109 and had been driven of the flywheel. This arrangement kills using the handcrank. The other option is to use the Koenig PTO and run it to the back. Any thoughts or is the winch not worth messing with? The winch is in pretty good condition. I think Ben in Ca. has a Koenig like this. Need some ideas and thoughts. Roy - Rovers in the Rockies From Spenny@aol.com Fri May 5 13:30:38 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 13:30:38 -0400 From: Spenny@aol.com Subject: BRLRC Parkersburg Meet David writes... both the organizer and one of the attendees are beer distributors (Guiness for all). Land Rovers and Guiness? At once? 16 hours away! This is the sort of thing that makes people put V-8 in a series rover Drooling, :-) spenny From The Stone Group Fri May 5 14:41:51 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 14:41:51 -0400 From: The Stone Group Subject: suscribe land-rover-owner subscribe From Charlie Wright Fri May 5 20:05:12 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 20:05:12 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner Russell offers advice: >> 85W-140, or something else like that. What should I use? Which >> brands are best? What about synthetics? >I think the theory is the thinnest oil that will not leak out >over night. In the winter a heaver weight is better, and lighter >in the summer. or conversely: heavier in summer (when ambient temperature will thin the oil) and lighter in winter when the chill will make it too thick to pump. This is not so critical with gears as they are bathed in the stuff, so thinner is not always better. What 85-W140 says is multi-grade. It should be more stable across a temperature range. Most boxes use EP90. Plain old heavy gear oil. Check your manuals for details. >Synthetics work well in wet locations. I think the synth runs out faster >than the water can run in. I missed something here. Synthetics are very good, and often lower the operating temp (lower the friction) significantly. They are prone to run out of Land-Rovers, and they are sometimes accused of encouraging older seals to leak. I cannot refute nor confirm this. My BMW club loves RedLine gear oil (synth), but I haven't ever switched. Rover owners claim MUCH lower temps with overdrives using synthetics, which is worth trying. I find a big fat 5 litre jug of discount EP90 is fine, and I use enough to get frequent buyer discounts... >> noticed there were inner tubes in all my tires. He said off road it >> is better not to have tubes. The PO said he put tubes in because he >> thought it was better for off road. What is you experience? >Air, lots of it is the important item to keep in your tires. Air, yes, but the amount varies with driving conditions and load. Lots of it (up to the mfgs. recommendation) is fine for towing and heavy loads. Slightly less is good for ordinary use. MUCH less is good for sand/mud. If you have old rims with rusty/bent edges, tubes are the cheapest way to solve air leaks. They also help if you run 8-10psi in sand or mud and suffer leaks at that level. They are dangerous at very high speeds (don't put tubes in your F40), but this will not worry a lot of us. Good luck, Charlie From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Fri May 5 14:49:04 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 14:49:04 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner :If you have old rims with rusty/bent edges, tubes are the cheapest way to :solve air leaks. They also help if you run 8-10psi in sand or mud and :suffer leaks at that level. They are dangerous at very high speeds :(don't put tubes in your F40), but this will not worry a lot of us. Ummm, how fast would be problem? What exactlyu is the danger? I've been known to achieve "passing speeds" of, say, 90mph in my 1974 ser III. From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Fri May 05 17:39:44 1995 Date: Fri, 05 May 95 17:39:44 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: trany for 110 / 90 2.25ltr diesel Can any one tell me what automatic tranny will match up to the current UK available 2.5 ltr diesel engines? Rgds Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Fri May 5 16:25:22 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 16:25:22 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: re : Off roading in NH All, We set the date for our off-roading trip, next Saturday 13th. The digest has been unavailable recently so I'm sorry for the late posting. Hope those that wanted to come along can still make it. e-mail me if you are interested. Mark From Jim Russell Fri May 5 17:24:06 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 17:24:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Russell Subject: Electronic Ignitions... In response to the question about electronic (optically triggered) ignitions, about four or so months ago I installed the little Crane-Allison unit (along with the Lucas "sport" coil) in my '66 88 SW and have been quite pleased with it to date. It made the timing really rock solid -- no jumping around at all. Installation was a snap but I didn't like having to cut off the pivot post for the points so I cut it to a level where I believe I could still reinstall the points and condensor in an emergency (below the optical shutter but leaving it long enough that the points should work). Jim Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Fri May 05 18:19:37 1995 Date: Fri, 05 May 95 18:19:37 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: making your own personalised toys As some of you know apart from model making passion I'm big into Land Rovers. That perversion is further corrupted by my love for Land Rover toys and models. While the diecast toys that are available at the toy stores are nice I find that sometime I want to do something alittle bit different. To that end I quite often repaint the toys in my own choice of colour scheme. This is not a major operation like you would imagine. The cheapest and easiest to play around with are the Majorette 1/60 scale diecast toys. They do a nice little 90 with a Camel style roof rack and opening rear door with a spare on it that has the Land Rover logo on it. The cost of this little jem is about 2.99 CDN plus taxes and is quite readilly available. As these toys have windows they obviously shouldnt be painted. At the same time the original clour needs to come off the casting otherwise the detail will be obliterated. The easiest way would be to deal with the body work on its own, which what I set out to do a couple of years ago. I started at the rivet that is at the front of the base and drilled it out using a3/16 bit (aprox). I was carefull not to do more than drill off the head of the rivet , cos we will need the std underneath when we re assemble the vehicle. The body casting can be cleaned with a number of yukky paint removers but I prefer Easy Off oven cleaner, original lemon scent. I do it in the set in sink in the basement (uk types insert privy here) After about 1hour of leaving the cleaner on the toy set in a samll bowl I rinse it using a toothbrush and warm water. If yours does not come clean make sure that you dry it completely before using another coat. Once clean and dry (isnt this the first step in every instruction?) then select your paint of choice and mist on the paint using a clothes peg on the stud to handle it by. Set it aside to dry, best leave it a day to harden up good to be honest. Putting it back together is reverse of taking it apart.( right! I then use a drop of superglue to hold the base to the remains of the stud. WARNING dont let a small child play with this now as it could come apart and choke th kid if they ingetsed it etc etc. For my purposes, since I'm not a small child ( contrary to local opinion ) this suits me fine. Voila I now have my own custom painted toy, you can go one step fuerther by adding a decal aswell if you wanted but thats another model making secret in its self. I usually only do that on light colours as this is what they show up on best. By using decals commemorative specials can be done quite easily, birthdays, club events etc. If you have any questions e mail me direct pls. ps. commissiFrom Lloyd Allison Sat May 6 17:13:40 1995 Date: Sat, 6 May 1995 17:13:40 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: small LR the latest LROC(Vic) newsletter carries details of a proposed small LR (may be pie in sky): monocoque steel (ughh) body (maybe ali doors and bonnet), probably disco axles, maybe RR2-style rear suspension, possible 2litre car type engine, plus some sort of turbo diesel option btw there is an ibex pic' in http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Foers/ Lloyd Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA tel: 61 3 905 5205 fax: 61 3 905 5146 email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Sat May 6 18:27:14 1995 Date: Sat, 6 May 1995 18:27:14 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Tirfor handle length. Ok Before the server Barfed someone asked about the handle length for a Tirfor hand-winch. I dont ahve the original message so the whole list gets bombed... The extended length for a T516 (the medium size one.. 1600/2500kg) is 1.15m or..about 45 inches -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat May 06 09:28:11 1995 Date: Sat, 06 May 1995 09:28:11 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owne Jory sez... > Ummm, how fast would be problem? What exactlyu is the danger? I've been > known to achieve "passing speeds" of, say, 90mph in my 1974 ser III. OK... exactly how long *was* the chain attached to the 18 wheeler that was pulling you. 90 MPH?? Good drugs in California, eh? Are you sure you don't have a speedo marked in KPH? Given the known accuracy of British speedometers, especially old British speedometers, I think, and I'm sure lots of our brethren would aggree, that 90 MPH is a tad much. I've been in a mostly loaded 109 doing 70 (on the speedo). We *we're* passing people. It felt like 90 and sounded like the connecting rods were merely inches from the pavement. 90 MPH!! Kids these days.... Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Sat May 6 10:37:33 1995 Date: Sat, 6 May 1995 10:37:33 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owne :Given the known accuracy of British speedometers, especially old British :speedometers, I think, and I'm sure lots of our brethren would aggree, that :90 MPH is a tad much... 1. I've crudely verified the accuracy of my speedometer at normal highway speeds (55-65) with a cohort in chase vehicle. 2. I actually have largish tires (32"?) which, (unless I am totally confused... never to be ruled out) should counter any standard British speedo tendencies. In terms of the *feel* of going really fast, I find that my rover is actually smoother at higher speeds... jory From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 06 95 May EDT 1915 Date: 06 May 95 15:51:56 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Speedo and lights Charlie--- the speedo has a number at the end of the model number, 1400 on a 109 which means the number of revolutions per mile that the speedo cable rotates. If you change from a 4.7 diff ratio to 3.54 you need a number 1400 x 3.54/4.7 = 1054 From memory some of the old Morris Oxford type cars or the larger model had speedos in this range. I suggest you look round a breakers. The Triumph 2000 or the Dolomites had a 1000 rev/ mile speedo which would certainly be more accurate than the standard one J Dolan the Lucas parts list shows your flasher lamp to be a model 613, available with clear or amber lenses, your part number is a clear lense, the book does not list the vehicles which use it, other than looking through all the models listed to see if the 613 is listed under a particular model car. Looking at the picture of the unit I would think that it is a model specific unit. I have in the UK a 3 litre enamel badge for the radiator grille, it has not been on a car, I also have some P6 engine size badges, ie 2000, 2200TC and 3500 and some wheel trims, can 't call them new since they are 20 or 30 years old but the parts have not been fitted to a car, offers accepted. This week I have made an offer on a house which has a 30 ft x 40 ft garage, now all I need are a few LR's to fill it up.( not forgetting the money to buy them ) Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Sat May 6 13:46 1995 Date: Sat, 6 May 95 13:46 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: USGS >> I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my >> local USGS topo map. I spent most of the day after work yesterday [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >How do you volunteer for this? Can anyone/anywhere (in the US)? Info >please. The last time I ordered a bunch of topo maps, they sent a flyer: Volunteers wanted for the US Geological Survey Earth Science Corps Be responsible for providing map updates for your local area Help promote the National Mapping Program in your community Have a chance to become involved in various scientific studies Combine you recreational interests with volunteer service Work with USGS maps in the field etc. There are two programs. One is a public outreach program under which volunteers help enhance public awareness of the National Mapping Program and products. The other is a map annotation project where volunteers provide info about potential map updates in their assigned area by annotating USGS maps. I signed up because, in my hikes and mountain bike rides (and now Land Rover trips, too), I have found numerous differences between the topo map and what is on the ground, especially with regard to where forest roads go. I was already annotating my local maps when this came along, so now my annotations can potentially benefit others. To obtain application forms, or for more info, write to: Earth Science Corps MS 513 U.S. Geological Survey Reston, VA 22092 James From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Sat May 6 13:54 1995 Date: Sat, 6 May 95 13:54 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: insurance >Ooh! I hope they don't base your insurance on Range Rovers. That might >be like having your Ford pick up insurance based on Explorers. More >expensive vehicle = more expensive insurance. I'd check this, my >insurance (Allstate) had a separate catagory for Land Rovers. It took about 4 phone calls to get a quote. The first quote they gave me was $450 for six months. Since my MGB of the same vintage (1972) is only $220, I told them, and they agreed, that that was too high. I finally got one for $190. For that price they can call it a Range Rover if theFrom lwte@ngi.no (Lloyd Tunbridge) Sun May 7 18:31:48 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 18:31:48 +0200 From: lwte@ngi.no (Lloyd Tunbridge) Subject: Re. Troubleshooting Gear Grinding :carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) writes: :My '66 IIa frequently grinds going into 1st,2nd or reverse. I'd appreciate :any experienced advice on the next step to persue. Here's the case: I remember reading somewhere, probably LRO mag., that the length of the push rod in the clutch hydraulic slave cylender is critical, and apparently wears to become too short. Might be worth a check --- Lloyd Tunbridge 1970 Series IIA 109" Safari currently standing without clutch and brakes! From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 07 95 May EDT 1916 Date: 07 May 95 16:59:57 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Digest exploding Who the f... is this vbormc.vbo.dec.com that keeps on bouncing the entire digest back!? Could've expected something like this to happen when Bill's on home leave... Murphys' law at work. First no digest, now bombshells. Stefan From ChipEast@aol.com Sun May 7 18:38:28 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 18:38:28 -0400 From: ChipEast@aol.com Subject: unsubscribe lro-digest ChipEast@aol.com unsubscribe lro-digest ChipEast@aol.com If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, you can send mail to "Majordomo@Team.Net" with the following command in the body of your email message: unsubscribe lro-digest ChipEast@aol.com FOR THE LAST TIME, PLEASE REMOVE MY NAME FROM THIS MAIL LIST. IT IS CAUSING GREAT DISHARMONY DUE THE HIGH QUANTITY OF MAIL. I HAVE TRIED EVERY WAY POSSIBLE TO REMOVE MYSELF FROM THE LIST AND I STILL GET THE DIGEST. THANK YOU. From Spenny@aol.com Sun May 7 22:07:40 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:07:40 -0400 From: Spenny@aol.com Subject: Downeast Rally Info: Maine USA -July Downeast VII 7th Annual Mid-Coast Land Rover Rally July 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th 1995 ************** Saturday July 1st ************** Offroad day among lakes, woods and blueberry barrens of Camden Hills. Fun and challenging off road trials course with water crossings, mud holes, rocks & boulders, climbs & descents, trenches, pole bridges, see-saw, articulation alley and other obstacles to embarrass show-offs. Plus miles of trails and team endeavors for diehards. Range Rover and Discovery restricted if fitted with spoiler. Driving instruction available. BBQ and pot luck. (so bring something) Playground for kids, swimming, canoeing, hiking. Vehicle service workshop on site. Rover's North will be in attendance Alcohol free zone and Tread Lightly in effect except on course. (participants are under no obligation to take part in any activity and don't be afraid to ask for driving instruction.) ******************************************************************** To join the fun, you must register, and send $5 (per person) for BBQ. (children without voracious appetites eat free) Only then will you be sent map & directions. ******************************************************************** Evening dinner at the Whale's Tooth Pub Lincolnville Beach from 6:30 pm Location: 6 miles north of Camden on Rte. 1 ************** Sunday, July 2nd ************** Owl's Head Transportation Museum, Owl's Head Maine Arrive before 10:00 am if you can Free admission to all rovers, (2 adults, 2 children per vehicle) 100+ rovers, US. & Canadian clubs, specialist parts, service, restoration, vehicle sales companies and dealers, latest new vehicles, including the new Range Rover, Rover's North offroad winching demonstration, 3 minute balancing see-saw competition. (practice all day on Saturday if you like at the off-road day) Full facilities on site: airshow will feature B-17, P-51, Yak-11, AV-8B Harrier Jump Jets, plus lots more. Around 4-4:30 pm Join the "lets get the hell outta here convoy!" And see you later for dinner at the Whale's Tooth Pub (unless some other bright spark has a better idea. ************** Monday July 3rd ************** Downeast coastal tour, picturesque historic villages, antique stores, damn good lunch, wildlife refuge park, then back to base camp, cook dinner, followed by rocking chairs, tall tales, even better lies, downright untruths with large helpings of slander on Murphy's back porch at Ducktrap intoxicating beverages will be tolerated ************** Monday July 3rd ************** Tuesday: much the same as Monday 'cept inland, or back to the offroad course for some clutch burnin' fender bender fun in the other person's rover. *** info **** info **** info **** info **** info **** info *** Weekend camp - The Old Massachusetts Homestead (south) Northport, Me 207-789-5135, ask for Dwight Location: 8 miles north of Camden, 2 miles north of The Whale's Tooth For alternative accommodations contact organizer Breakdown/rescue assistance: East Coast Rover Company, Camden, Maine - 207-236-0646 Howard's Land Rover Garage, Warren, Maine - 207-273-2370 or have AAA deliver you to one of the above -------------------------------------------------------------------- For information and location of the off road trial site, send $5 for BBQ along with SASE us only to: Myles Murphy, RR2, Box 23, Ducktrap, Lincolnville Beach, Maine, 04849, USA or (207) 789-5303. or email spenny@aol.com ----------------------------------------------------- please print this out and show it to someone who isn't on the net. thanks. From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Sun May 7 22:05:11 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:05:11 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Tony's Ignition Tony Bonanno (15034.3062@Compuserve.com) asked about electronic ignitions. I installed the Luminition unit six (eight?) years ago and haven't touched the ignition system ('cept for replacing the high tension leads once) since. Need more be said? It takes longer to read the documentation than it does to install it. Two tips: ignore the reference to the "ballast resistor" - there isn't on on series Rovers. There is a little wedge on the inside diameter of the chopper blade thingie that has to be removed; otherwise the rotor sits up too high and rubs the cap. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Sun May 7 22:05:16 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:05:16 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Centre Diffs 101 --=====================_799909542==_ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The following is a reprint from the Spring, 1995 issue of "The Gearbox", the quarterly newsletter of the Rover Owners' Association of Virginia. Written by Jim Allen of "Stateside Beat" column fame in LRO, it is the best description of that most mysterious mechanical linkage (at least to me) the center differential. The article is a response to a previously-published article by Stefan Jacob. In fact, Stefan asked that I post this; it should probably be included in the FAQ. It is, however, about 20k of text. Cheers, all. --=====================_799909542==_ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Thought I'd give you some input by responding to a tech tip from Stefan Jacob in the last issue [of "the Gearbox"] and add a bit to Bill Maloney's comments on getting passed the spectre fo emissions testings. I'm still enjoying the newsletter greatly, especially the tech stuff. I have to respectfully disagree with some of Stefan's comments on Range Rover center differentials. Before I get into the meat 'n taters, let me qualify myself by saying that my information comes from six years as a factory-trained (read: Solihull) Land Rover line technician, two years as a Land Rover Driving Instructor and many other years just mucking about with Land/Range Rovers in general. CENTRE DIFFERENTIALS 101 First, a explanation of how a centre differential works. Though called "full-time" four wheel drive, the Range Rover system really isn't. Centre diff unlocked, it's still really a two wheel drive; it just has the option to drive a front wheel. As with all open differentials (remember that the Range Rover has three, with only the centre lockable), power takes the path of least resistance. With a conventional 4X2, if you put one rear wheel on dry pavement and the other on sheet ice, the power will go to the wheel on ice. The centre diff works the same way. Under the right circumstances, if you put both front and one rear wheel on pavement and the other rear on ice, the one tire on ice is going to spin and the Rover will just sit there. We're talking the manually locked center diff here (LT-95, LT-230), not the Borg-Warner unit with the VCU (viscous coupling unit) that automatically locks the center diff when slippage is sensed. OK, so with the center diff unlocked, the system can transfer power to the wheel with the least amount of traction. If you lock the center diff, the power is split 50/50 between the front and rear, just like the conventional transfer box on your alder Land-Rovers. The centre diff is then coupled and spins as one unit. USING THE CENTRE DIFF The most glaring problems with Stefan's comments lie in the second paragraph. My experience with Range Rover transfer boxes, and also Land Rover doctrine, dictate certain technique for their systems. Stefan was quite correct in saying that it's unnecessary and undesirable to lock the centre diff on the road for the same reasons your wouldn't put your Series Land-Rover into four-wheel. Tire and drivetrain wear are accelerated on highly tractive surfaces and even a wet road qualifies as highly tractive. An icy or snowy road where you are spinning just one tire in an attempt to move is an exception, though driving icy roads with the centre diff locked can be treacherous; the same advice would apply to standard 4X4's in four wheel drive. Stefan is also absolutely correct to warn against applying diff lock whilst you've got lots of wellie applied. You either want to be in diff lock before you get to the wildly spinning tire stuff (not the best way to drive, anyway) or you want to: 1) back off the throttle, 2) engage the diff lock lever, 3) wait 'til the light come on (the sure indicator that it's actually engaged, since the light reads off a sensor in the t-box) and 4) get back on the fuel feed. You don't have to push in the clutch to engage diff lock (you couldn't anyway with the auto tranny) but being gentle doesn't hurt if you have the option. Here is where Stefan and I part ways: If you are in terrain that's more than the family sedan can handle - engage the diff lock! Why? Once you start getting into low traction situations, you start that centre diff to working hard. It's actually very small and not as robust as the diffs in your axles. Gears a-spinnin', its starts to get hot, especially if "Joe's Genuine Recycled Gear Oil" that you put in can't keep up with the lubrication needs. Shimmed with brass behind the diff gears, once they loose lubrication, from heat generally, they melt down and/or get spit out in chunks. The gears then walk around, get cockeyed and break. Sometimes the broken chunks will lock the unit into one piece and you will find the vehicle in truly permanent four-wheel drive. If it doesn't lock up, you stop. With the centre diff locked, power is transferred through the much stronger centre diff housing instead of the gears. In diff lock, the unit is stronger than unlocked and no more vulnerable to breakage than any other 4X4, V-8 engine, first gear, wide open throttle and blocked wheels notwithstanding. T-CASE DETAILS Stefan and I break ranks on another issue. I'm sorry to say that Range Rover LT-230 gearboxes do commonly leak - it's the number one cause of failure. The rear output seal is the usual culprit, followed by the pan gasket. The pan is easily remedied with a gasket backed up with sealant on the pan and the bolts. The oil seal is less easily corrected, though I understand that there is a new seal available of better quality than the early ones. The newer Discos and Defenders don't seep much compared to '87-'88 Range Rovers; Borg-Warner took over in '89 an it really doesn't leak. Stefan is correct on the importance of not having the handbrake adjusted tight in order to keep the heat down and not melt the seal. Most of the older Range Rovers I worked on were '87-88 automatics, and most owners didn't use the handbrake anyway. I saw few seal problems related to heat. Anyway, the oil level gets low due to the rear seal leak and lack of attention. What goes first? Your got it - the centre diff. It spins its shims out and there you go - buying a $1,100 centre diff assembly. The moral? Update your seals to the latest spec, check oil levels regularly and don;t overdo the handbrake adjustment. Stefan was also spot-on about the vent hoses and the importance of keeping them clear. LT-230s are somewhat noisy by nature, and it's actually rare to find a totally silent one. This is the #1 Discovery complaint right now. Most times, the "LT-230 whine" will last 200,000 miles. If the noise is there from the beginning and never changes over a long period, you can probably ignore it. If it arrives suddenly or changes pitch, you ought to investigate further. Two LT-230s exist: the LT-230R and the -230T. The "R" unit has roller bearings on the intermediate shaft gear and was used in early RR, 90s and 110s with high range ratios from 1.003-1 (the RR auto with Torqueflite), 1.412-1 (early 90 four cylinders and the 110 V-8) and 1.667-1 (early 110 four bangers). The "T" unit has tapered roller bearings on the intermediate gears and nearly the same ratios in the same applications, except that the ZF automatic Range Rovers use a 1.22-1 high range gear, as do Discovery 5-speeds and auto and V-8 Defender 90s. The T-unit is the better box. R-unit boxes have a tendency to have thrust washer trouble on the intermediate gear, as did the LT-95 box. Bearing whine on the T-unit can often be traced to improper bearing preloads on either/both the inter gear bearings and the centre diff housing. If you change your diff oil and find lots of brass, you've got centre diff problems. Often, you'll have trouble getting it out of diff lock along wit