From azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Fri Apr 28 09:03:13 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 09:03:13 UNDEFINED From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... /The manual says 20/50,and while you mat get away with 15/50 /for the petrol engine,I would *never* run the diesel on it Is this a difference between the 2.25 adn the 2.5? My manual for the 2.5 says 10/40. I have run mine on this since new adn, maybe coincidentally, am the only Ladrover driver I (or my mechanic) know who has had no trouble from teh engine. Most round home are constantly in being fixed. I shall continue to use 10//40, not switching to 20/50 till the engine is much more worn than its current 60k. I use teh Castrol GTX 10/40 ever since a long discussion on rec.motorcycles where someone posted hte results of an independent study of synthetic high-performance oils which showed that Csatrol GTX was streets ahead of the other non-synthetics adn held its specification as well as most of teh synthetics including teh feted Mobil1!!!! /mature power unit.The other problem is that diesel's tend /to contaminate the lubricating oil with fuel oil,which in /turn thins it even further. So change the oil at least twice as often as teh manufacturers specs. My lorry gets used at weekends only, so currently it is getting an oil change every 1000! /Lastly,I dont know quite how to put this,but if you got /sixty five out of a 2.25 diesel,you aint got much wrong, Hell! My 2.5 90 wont do that on 205R16 tyres. (It would get to 85 on teh 6.50 Avon Tractio Mileages fitted standard!) /It *will* slow up for hills,but the max torque is low in /the rev range,and it should chunter unstoppably up most /normal hills. Mine used to go slowish up teh Woodhead Pass unladen. I did teh same trip with the rear loaded to the roof with lawn sods (estimated at > 1 tonne). I figured it would be seriously painful going up teh Woodhead, but teh lorry didnt seem to notice the difference. If anything the engine sounded smoother and happier!! /finally,dont just take my word for it.There are a few more /Oily Wadders on the list. Do I qualify? Pleeeeaase mister..... +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From Mike Rooth Fri Apr 28 9:51:19 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 9:51:19 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... Andy, The 2.5 may well run on 10/50.However,the manual says 20/50 for the 2.25,and as far as I know,that goes for both three *and* five bearing engines.Mine was being fed 15/50 when I got it (pretty well knackered as well),and consumption was reduced noticeably when I switched to the "correct" grade(at about three quid from B&Q).I currently use Millers Oils 20/50.Having rebored etc the engine about five years ago,oil consumption isnt a drastic problem,but Millers lasts longer than any other oil I've tried in her and isnt much more expensive than B&Q. I *did* try some cheapo oil on offer at two quid from Halfords some time ago,and it *drank* the stuff.Couldnt keep pace with it. Mind you it felt a bit thin.Back to Millers,no problem. At a guess,and that's all it is,when Rover modded the 2.25 into a 2.5,they *may* have fallen into the modern trap of decreasing the size of the oilways and beefing up the pump.So you need thinner oil,but God help you if you get a totty bit of crap in an oilway. As you say,change the oil more often. Yeah,you are qualified as an Oily Wadder! Cheers Mike Rooth From Mike Rooth Fri Apr 28 11:44:51 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 11:44:51 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Metric hand-brake? Right on Charlie.My '70, certainly has none of these nasty foreign metric millimetre things about its person.Its all either A/F (UNC or UNF) or Imperial(Whit/BSF).Actually, most nuts seem to be 1/2" A/F.Not all,by any means,but a goodly proportion.No metric,to the point where I've thrown all but two of the metric sockets out of my set,and have replaced them with Whit,as the latter become available on the local market tool stall at a quid each.Just need 1/2" and 9/16" now and its complete.There are one or two B.A on the electrical side. Like you,I wonder when(or if) Land Rover went over to the S.I (not Metric,its different,apparently).I bet the interim years were sheer bloody chaos.Just think,THREE major systems on one vehicle!Enough to reduce strong men to tears.Or drive them to drink...... Cheers Mike Rooth From maainc@world.std.com (Michael Anthony) Fri Apr 28 07:30:35 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 07:30:35 -0400 From: maainc@world.std.com (Michael Anthony) Subject: 1990 R A N G E R O V E R "County" $17,900 1990 Range Rover "Count" available for Sale! Comes with a fully transferrable WARRANTY good for 100,000 miles -or- two and one-half years. Vehicle has New Tires, New Exhaust System, New HELLA Raylle 2000 Lights, Alarm System with Remote Start feature, Brush Bar, Light Guards (Front & Rear), Running Boards, Sunroof, CD PLayer, and a Cargo Area Plastic liner. If you're a Non-Smoker you will be happy to know that the ash trays have Never been used and no one has ever smoked in the vehicle! The Range Rover is a Dark Gray, with Gray Leather interior, and has 70,000 highway miles. Off-Road experiences have consisted of only three 1/2 day trips to the beaches of Cape Cod! This vehicle has always been under Warranty and has always been maintained by Foreign Motors West to Range Rover specifications. The transferrable 100,000 mile Warranty is easily a $2,500 value to the next owner, and serious protection against the unknown, in spite of the fact that his has been an exceptional vehicle, as service records will detail. The Warranty also includes Car Rental and Towing, should this vehicle ever "Fail to Proceed!" This is my second Range Rover, with number three to be delivered on may 8th! This may be one of the best 1990 Range Rover - "County's" available for purchase in NEw England, and a vehicle a dealership would sell for $20,000! Thsi vehicle MUST sell -or- be traded-in by May 8th! Therefore the first $17,900 takes it! As a Extra Value we will include a Professional Detail at "Classic Shine" before delivery! Serious buyers pleae Contact: Michael Gaetano Office: 617-237-4950 FAX: 617-237-6811 Home: 508-358-7619 email: maainc@world.std.com From Alan Richer 28 95 Apr EDT 1907 Date: 28 Apr 95 7:48:13 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... >Do you qualify? Weeeelllll....lemme see..... Hi! Thanks for the response to my queries on Diesel care and feeding. Old Churchill (from what I was told by an LR Diesel mechanic yesterday) needs injector timing done, and I'm going to attempt that feat tomorrow. I take it I have to completely field-strip the fuel system to do this? (Drain to lower the level in the pump...) If I'm going to do that, I'll probably get some new fuel hoses and replace them and the filters while I'm about it. Andy and Mike, you were right. Why did I bother to call this guy? Paranoia runs deep... Anyone got any suggestions as to the ID of the fuel hose he takes? Also (on a more humorous note), I damned near spit my teeth across the room laughing when I realized that the Series IIa and my neighbor's antique Ford Diesel tractor used the same fuel filter. I think we'll be shopping together for parts next..... -Alan From Alan Richer 28 95 Apr EDT 1907 Date: 28 Apr 95 7:47:17 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... >Do you qualify? Weeeelllll....lemme see..... Hi! Thanks for the response to my queries on Diesel care and feeding. Old Churchill (from what I was told by an LR Diesel mechanic yesterday) needs injector timing done, and I'm going to attempt that feat tomorrow. I take it I have to completely field-strip the fuel system to do this? (Drain to lower the level in the pump...) If I'm going to do that, I'll probably get some new fuel hoses and replace them and the filters while I'm about it. Anyone got any suggestions as to the ID of the fuel hose he takes? Also (on a more humorous note), I damned near spit my teeth across the room laughing when I realized that the Series IIa and my neighbor's antique Ford Diesel tractor used the same fuel filter. I think we'll be shopping together for parts next..... -Alan From Alan Richer 28 95 Apr EDT 1907 Date: 28 Apr 95 7:57:46 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... Mike, Re: Diesel compression: I was given a figure of 340 PSI yesterday by an LR mechanic. His method for calculation was as follows: 14.7 PSI = Air pressure at sea level 23: 1 compression ratio X 14.7 PSI = 338.1 PSI. He said that with heating effects he'd expect to see 370 to 390 PSI on an engine at spec. Re: my engine: I'm not too sure this engine is all that right. it seems like the block is great from the descriptions I've had, but the amount of smoke it's putting out is absolutely phenomenal to see. I'm getting worried that my neighbours are going to call the fire brigade on me....yuck!. I am extremely gratified to you, Andy, and Craig Murray in the odd kangaroo place for all of your assistance to the new LR owner. I've wanted one of these beasts since I was 9 and now (under prodding from the wife) I've got a summer to turn this into a car I can use daily. I love a challenge... Yours, Alan From Charlie Wright Fri Apr 28 14:05:37 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 14:05:37 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... On 28 Apr 1995, Alan Richer wrote: > Re: Diesel compression: > I was given a figure of 340 PSI yesterday by an LR mechanic. His method for [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > He said that with heating effects he'd expect to see 370 to 390 PSI on an > engine at spec. I would have to think this is an under-estimate, as the 'heating effect' is, I think, greater than estimated and the combustion is not accounted for. I would think of it like this: P1 * V1 P2 * V2 P=Pressure --------- = --------- V=Volume T1 T2 T=Temperature Now we are assuming an adiabatic engine here, which anyone getting 22 mpg knows we do not have. There is a lot of heat lost through the block so that T2 is lower than a perfect gas would dictate. However, you must realise that at the end of the stroke (hopefully) the diesel vapour goes 'bang' (or BANG if you're lucky and have new rings). This combustion adds energy to the system. Quite a lot. Let's assume that the vapour comes in around 30c, from a warm injector system mixing with room temp air. That's T1. We have P1 at 14.7 and V1 at 23 (units). To find P2 we need T2 and V2. V2 is defined as 1 by my 'units'. Simplify: 14.7 x 23 P2 ----------- = ---- = 11.3 PSI/degrees C { I know, I should be consistant } 30 T2 { in my units. They cancel out. } Let's just use the pressure value of 390 PSI that was guessed before as a test value for P2: 390 PSI This would mean T2 = ------------ = 34.5 degrees C. 11.3 PSI/C I would be surprised (even with our abuse of perfect gasses) if diesel burns at 34.5c. This shows a 'heating effect' of 4.5c I would have guessed a much higher number >100 c certainly. My coolant certainly gets hotter than that... so where is all the heat? Even if something conservative like 100c is used, that puts the number closer to 1100 PSI, which I would be willing to believe. Another way to tackle the problem is to calculate the torque in the engine (remeber this pressure value will vary with fuel/air mixture and the resulting combustion a lot). Devide this by 4 cylinders, add a bit for losses to friction, and think in terms of work done. Torque = Force x distance (from fulcrum). If you do something like Torque(max) ----------- = Torque per cylinder = Force per cyl x [length of crank offset] 4 Knowing the max torque of the diesel and the length of the offset of the big ends, force (in pounds) from each cylinder should be readily calculated. This, in turn, should be divisible by the surface area of the piston. NOW the trouble. I think torque is measured in a rather difficult way on engines. I don't think it is measured straight off the end of the crank (as we need it) and it doesn't account for the fact that much of the torque (per cylinder) is going directly into moving the crank, pistons, and most importantly: compressing the opposing cylinder in the bank. So this is physically elegant, but practically difficult. We're back to calculating the work (force x displacement) required to comress a piston of diesel 23:1 (but we can forget about the combustion now). I'm not going to sit down with my Physical Chemistry notes and try to work this out, it's been too long. I really need to do it with full calculation of energies and heat of combustion for diesel fuel. A loss factor for friction and the imperfect seals, and figure the BIG UGLY integral equation with proper thermodynamics... (but Land Rover doesn't seem to bother). Please feel free to tackle my mis-recollection of ideal gas laws, and point out my flaws. I'd like to think I'm not far off, but I may have utterly neglected something like entropy/enthalpy or any of the other great delta-x's I never quite took to heart. Cheers, Charlie (biologist with chemical leanings...) From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri Apr 28 22:38:38 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 22:38:38 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Metric/SI Land-rovers Mike writes; > Like you,I wonder when(or if) Land Rover went over to the > S.I (not Metric,its different,apparently).I bet the interim > years were sheer bloody chaos.Just think,THREE major systems > on one vehicle! (Drum Roll) Enter the stage 1... My 82 stage 1 has, yes folks, all three major systems.. What does this mean in reality? Well whilst you have the correct spanner for the job somewhere, you can never quite find it and end up using the one that fits the closest from any other system.. >Enough to reduce strong men to tears. Or drive them to drink...... Actually you tend to use shifters and vice grips a lot. (as well) cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From Alan Richer 28 95 Apr EDT 1909 Date: 28 Apr 95 9:54:27 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Diesel timing In an earlier memo, A.J. gives a wonderful description of how to time a Diesel engine. However, having the manuals, I think I'm going to try pulling the access plate on the pump after draining it down and go for the pump timing mark. How stupid am I being here? AJ (if you haven't knocked off for the day - I HATE timezones...) Do you think that your way covers the wear better? I'm asking for reference...that and I'm a coward when it comes to adjusting things without reference points. Yours, Alan From Andrew Grafton Fri Apr 28 15:00:52 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 15:00:52 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Snorkels Get your silly heads on, and please point out the flaw(s) in my plans. Objective : to create a minimum-cost snorkel for a 2286 diesel. Method : Remove standard air filter from under bonnet. Attach same air filter to roofrack. Connect air filter to engine air inlet manifold with long piece of semi-rigid hose of the right diameter. Upend (empty) paint tin on top of air filter to keep rain out and stop on-road air blasting in. Problems I can see : Moving oil bath filter up results in greater accelerations on the oil, perhaps leading to 'sloshing' round corners. Drag in long pipe affecting efficiency (why would it be worse than a more conventional system?) Replies eagerly awaited. All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 28 95 Apr EDT 1910 Date: 28 Apr 95 10:35:01 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Gearbox problems > the other one said "it either snaps a half-shaft or the oil catches fire" > Of course he _had_ to put on the brake at speed... The cab IMMEDIATELY > filled with smoke.... Happened to me once with the 109 (accidentally); pulled over, quickly chucked aside the center seat squab, removed the central seat box cover and poured a can of cold Coke I happened to have with me over the fuming hand brake drum to douse the smouldering oil... it worked! Hand brake action was better too, afterwards - it really *stuck* ! :-) (Don't know if this would work with Pepsi...) Stefan From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 28 95 Apr EDT 1910 Date: 28 Apr 95 10:35:48 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Tire size for a Land Rover > Also, is the 4 cyl engine really going to be able to spin tires much? > Maybe I don't need to worry so much about digging in with the tires??? Well, they might not spin much, but in 1st low you can grind yourself in up to your footwells in no time at all (my own experience in the sands of Egypt). Best tread for loose sand is what we've seen them drive on old beaten-up Toyotas in Libya: Absolutely bare (ply already showing) and half- inflated (aka 'Telly-Savalas-tread'). Stefan From Alan Richer 28 95 Apr EDT 1910 Date: 28 Apr 95 10:51:37 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Snorkels Re: Snorkel: Rather than using the original air cleaner, why not use a dry filter from a diesel tractor-trailer? Most of these are already designed for exterior mounting, so the paint bucket would be unneeded. As far as the inlet piping, I'd just up the diameter an inch or so and NOT use corrugated. Actually light aluminum tubing of that size would be easy enough to fabricate (cuts on a table or radial-arm saw like wood) Put a flex coupling between this assembly and the engine, and then attach the air cleaner to that. Trying to be helpful - Yours, Alan From Easton Trevor Fri Apr 28 08:11:00 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 08:11:00 DST From: Easton Trevor Subject: Grammar and Young Subscribers Christian; Apologies. It was not the intent to mock your grammar. There had been some concern about the "adult" nature of some submissions a few weeks ago and concern was expressed about young subscribers. The context of your post seemed to fit with the young subscriber idea. Please don't worry about your grammar as anyone who isn't born and raised English, who can then grasp the subtleties of the language is little short of a genius. I thought it was a bit rough though that you were chided through the digest and this should be enough. Trevor Easton (English born and English Bred, strong in the arm and thick in the head) Vive La Quebec Libre. From UncleBrad@aol.com Fri Apr 28 13:22:25 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 13:22:25 -0400 From: UncleBrad@aol.com Subject: Mojave, D-Valley, & NV run A group from England called Venturers Search & Reacue is arriving in LA on May 23 to tour Mojave, Death Valley, & Nevada. The group will consist of three 14-year old teens and one adult. (Venturers is a Teen-oriented group which helps people and animals in distress by land or sea). They have and use Land Rovers at home, and on this trip they will be bringing something called a Forest Fire Engine, similar to the Land Rover Forward Control. It is a one-of-a-kind prototype built by Hawker-Siddley as a competitor to the FC 101. It uses a Range Rover V-8 and a 10-speed ZF gearbox. Also has Power Lock front & rear diffs. They are hoping to do the Mojave Trail but are a bit worried about getting through Soda Lake with only one vehicle. It sounds like they really need some company there. Anyone interested in joining them for pieces of thier trip? Jeff Stitt of NV is going to try to get down to the Panamint Valley & meet them in his 88. He may get farther South but isn't sure yet. His home phone number is 702-463-2011 if you'd like to meet up with him. I think that a couple of us N. Californians might get up to the Black Rock Desert in NV for a bit of prospecting during the time they are in that area. We will try to hook up with them for a day or so and anyone else is welcome too. My home phone number is 510-687-1188. Venturers has to be in SF by June 19 to catch the ship home. Brad Blevins From srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Fri Apr 28 11:11:20 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 11:11:20 -0600 From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Subject: IBEX I heard a rumor some time back about the possibility of Landrover producing a "baby" landrover model, to compete for the market currently taken by smaller jeep-style vehicles from Us and Japan. I heard this from a newsletter printed by Atlantic British -- a company distributing mainly series IIa parts in the US. Just yesterday, I saw a news item in Landrover World Magazine discussing the IBEX prototype vehicle based on Landrover running gear -- and the possibility of this thing being mass produced. Are these the same vehicle? Does anyone know more? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Stephen Brown email: srbrown@sandia.gov ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From harincar@internet.mdms.com Fri Apr 28 12:32:07 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 12:32:07 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Re: Is this normal? Thanks for all the tips on driving a non synchro LR. I don't know how long it would've taken me to discover the trick of going into third before back into first. (Your talking to someone who's Land Rover is likly older than himself by about 6 months, so I never even *heard* of a non-synchromesh gearbox before I bought the LR :-) ) Double clutch? Mine only has one clutch... :-) Tim --- tim harincar harincar@internet.mdms.com moore graphic services '66 IIa 88 SW From Larry_Soo@mindlink.bc.ca (Larry Soo) Fri Apr 28 11:16:29 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 95 11:16:29 -0800 From: Larry_Soo@mindlink.bc.ca (Larry Soo) Subject: re: transmission-mounted drum brakes Glen_Rees writes: From usssbkpy@ibmmail.com Fri Apr 28 14:26:11 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 14:26:11 EDT From: usssbkpy@ibmmail.com Subject: BSROA irregularities In reply to a posting from : As a LR owner/enthusiast, I am voicing my STRONG OBJECTION to finding a long posting on the LRO "pissing and moaning" about the (supposed) irregularities of a local LR club. The LRO forum is NOT the place for this tirade - if you have a problem with the local club, pick up your phone and call Jim Pappas (the club president) at work, or send him an e-mail (jpappa01@interserv.com). Since you are no longer an active club member, you have no business getting involved in this in the first place !! From Charlie Wright Fri Apr 28 21:52:03 1995 Date: Fri, 28 Apr 1995 21:52:03 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: re: transmission-mounted drum brakes Larry, you are correct, from the brake's point of view. We aren't worried about the brake, however. It will not snap. In fact its advantage (mechanically) over the wheel brake is precisely the problem. When it grabs, all that braking force is transferred through the rear power-train. It's the half-shaft that's going to snap... or the diff... or the (unlikely) prop... or one of many universal joints along the way. It's a great brake for holding you on a hill (except for the aformentioned oil leak problem), but it's not a very good 'emergency brake'... except in that its use for a panic stop may indeed lead to what you would consider an emergency. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Sat Apr 29 13:43:11 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 13:43:11 +1000 From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Subject: Re: Need LR's in RSA > I am coming to the RSA on June 18 of this year and need to buy at least one > new or used LR. Preferably a 109 or a 110 in decent condition. I will be A decent second-hand 109 will probably set you back R20-40,000 (roughly US$ 6-12,000). At that price you should be dual tanks, roofrack, etc. Spare bits like tanks & extra wheels are easy to find _if_ you can find someone who buys up military vehicles on auctions. A decent 110 will cost you upwards of R80,000 (US$ 25,000). > The car(s) will be used for overland safaris in Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, > and Namibia-so it must be durable. I would like one with an extra tank and If you're planning on extended & tough trips, where you're going to break lots of things like axles & springs, stick with the 109. There are _lots_ of them all over the subcontinent (from British colonial days) and you can always find bits (and mechanics). A 110 would be more comfortable, but you'll not find coil springs EFI computers North of the Limpopo! If you go for a petrol vehicle, remember that fuel is more expensive in the North, cheaper in Botswana. Diesel is cheaper than petrol (a lot cheaper in places like Zambia), and less flammable (safer to carry), but a diesel 109 (with the stock 2.25 engine) won't travel much faster than 80 km/hr. Of course, the roads won't let you travel much faster (on the whole), but you'll get frustrated en route to the border. There was a South African "special" based on the stage 1 V8 with a big Atlantis diesel -- I've heard mixed reports about them: they are apparently very fast, but I'm not at all sure about reliability. As always, YYMV (just to reduce the flame-bait potential!). Good luck, and enjoy. -- Paul Nash turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy 14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA finger for PGP 2.6 public key From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Sat Apr 29 16:25:17 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 16:25:17 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: Interesting message on the list... Dixon: I feel that I'm in Star Trek at some tribunal.. but anyway. Some answers? No problem. By the way, would OVLR send me their financial information if I asked? Don't worry, I don't have a need to know. I'm a little shocked at the fact that the BSROA's confidentiality is assumed to be public domain. Again, this information is available to all members in good standing. Spenny joined the club at Owl's head for a half year membership. His membership kit included two decals (2.00), once cloth patch (4.25), one three-ring binder (1.90), and three newsletters (3.80 each including postage). That is $19.55 for a half-year membership. We have chosen our club format and newsletter format early on. It works for us. Not everyone. We don't expect all clubs to be structured or formatted the same way and none of them are. They're ALL different. Is that wrong? The club's expenses are clearly in line with our revenues. Money in the black is largely due to advertising differentials and/or donations/raffles, etc. All of which we solicit from advertisers before each major event. Without them, we would barely meet expenses. Of our 250 members, we have some 15-20 gratis memberships. Anyway. 1- $5000 on advertising. Please understand (and I think that this will clear up most of the confusion) that these are names that we picked as HEADER names for account name groups. In our case, ADVERTISING includes the accounts media (film, tape), Wearguard (club clothes), two accounts for Club patches and decals, and event plaques and name tags. These are expensed accounts offset by revenues from various accounts such as dues, advertising, direct event payments, etc. 2- $1900 for Travel & Entertainment - again, an expense accout Header label. Includes accounts for renting lodging, B&B's, supplies for various Club Parties/events - i.e. Xmas party liquor, prepaid tuition (the biggie in May and yes, it WAS AT THE ARC!) for David Bowyer's Off Road School - which had to be paid up front! Again, these expenses were recovered from general revenues and/or by direct repayment from member reimbursements for attending the ARC. 3- Printing/postage. Printing costs under Publications, and postage costs (and yes, we DO have/rent a Pitney Bowes machine which we use for flyer mailings - this expense account under OFFICE SUPPLIES. The mailing of the newsletter (external postage) is shown this same account group as well. By the way, it costs us at present $950 to print and post each issue of the ROVER REFERENCE. Please don't try and pass judgement as to whether or not this is right, moral, or whatever... but that is our cost. Our printer is PIP, and our poster is the US Postal system. Once we get a few more members, we are going to apply for a bulk mailing permit to reduce postage expenses. 4- The computer was a DONATION to the Club by myself. Before we were using a general chart of accounts. I have never *drawn* anything back from the club in terms of compensation - only reimbursement. 5- We have as a structure, a system of me, the chairman, and appointed officers. We have not yet had a system of general elections, because, quite frankly (and I hope this will change) most of our members enjoy the Club as a resource for information and fun. Since (as you well know) most of the genl admin. of the club is thankless and consumes billions of hours (I rarely get to bed before midnight), the officers of the club have not thus far been able to identify enough people who will commit the necessary resources to justify a general election. Our general meetings usually resemble UK-style pub meetings. It works. Its not perfect. Someday I hope to have general elections. But not unless I and the other officers are convinced that the goals of the Club can be advanced. I have been an elected officer in three different clubs. Some worked, others did not. Yes, we are growing very fast - and our structure must be able to accomodate this growth. Please understand that I am cognizant of this fact and am always on the alert for signs that changes must be implemented. I also have a masters degree (although I didn't do terribly well in accounting or financial managament - that's why we're using computer software!) But I did do well in strategy, marketing and human resource management. I believe that these tools have certainly helped me thus far. You remember strengths/weakness max/min - I'm sure you do. So, I present my strengths, and try and mitigate my weaknesses. Its frustrating sometimes. Nobody likes to be dumped on after putting in a lot of time and effort. But it happens. And we go on. From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Sat Apr 29 19:47:14 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 19:47:14 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: (electric) '29 Ford & '71 Land Rover in SF Bay Area (USA) :Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 09:51:17 -0700 :Reply-To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List :Sender: Electric Vehicle Discussion List :From: Bob Rickard :Subject: '29 Ford & '71 Land Rover in SF Bay Area (Northern California) :X-To: EV LIST SUBMISSIONS :To: Multiple recipients of list EV : :If anyone on the list from Northern California is interested in :seeing our '29 Ford Roadster and '71 Land Rover EVs, I'll be :stopping by the EAA meeting in San Bruno on Saturday, 6 April. : :You may have seen the Land Rover in either the premier issue of :Electric Car or in Home Power. The '29 Ford Roadster was just :chosen from among approximately 1500 street rods at the Goodguys :6th Spring Nationals at the LA County Fairplex as one of the top :10 cars present by Street Rodder magazine. Street Rodder staff :photographer Eric Geisert also did a nice shoot with the large :wind generators near Palm Springs as a backdrop. It will be :interesting to see the reaction of the street rod crowd to this :feature article showing the complete chain of clean power source :to clean running EV. Sort of analogous to parking a typical :street rod in front of an oil well and refinery, I suppose. : :Anyway, I plan to arrive in the San Bruno area late Friday afternoon, :then show up at the meeting site at least an hour early to unload :the two cars. So if anyone wants to get together for dinner on :Friday or breakfast on Saturday, please let me know by Wednesday :evening, as I plan on leaving on Thursday. : :By the way, the '29 Ford Roadster also has an analog amp-hour :meter which reads as a normal fuel gauge (E - 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4 - F), :and I'll bring literature on the new Curtis unit which drives it :if anyone is interested. : :--- : Bob Rickard brickard@olympus.net : -------------------------------------------------------------------- : Wilde EVolutions, Inc High Performance Electric Vehicles : 1-800 Fast EVs Jerome, AZ and Port Townsend, WA : -------------------------------------------------------------------- : "Remember, no matter where you go, there you are" -- Buckaroo Banzai :'29 Ford & '71 Land Rover in SF Bay Area (Northern California) : From JDolan2109@aol.com Sun Apr 30 08:21:51 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 08:21:51 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Not LR;Lucas Lens Quest I'm looking for a Lucas lens, preferably good used. It is a "glass for flasher unit" on a 1960 Rover 3 Litre saloon. It is the LH side lens. Rover part number is: 511986. Lucas number, as used by Rover, is: LU 54570912. Does anyone have a Lucas catalog that might cross this lens over and tell of its use on another vehicle? Does anyone know of such a reference? That might make it easier to find. Have found a new lens (very expensive), but thought I'd explore this route as well. The old one is 4 pieces (5th is missing) glued together and I question how long it shall last as currently assembled. Replies e-mail direct, please (don't want to waste this space). Working on 'Road' Rovers today! Jim '60 P5 (628000165) '68 P6 SC Auto '68 P6 TC '60, '61, '68, '71 LR's, 88" From David John Place Sun Apr 30 09:59:18 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 09:59:18 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Snorkels The idea seems OK, but why not leave the old oil bath in and just braze a pipe onto the old bath and then run your hose up top. you can seal off the old air intakes and now you have the dust caught in the old way but the air comes in up top out of the water. I would check a tractor shop and see if they have a paper filter that would go on top of the hose with a housing. I think I have seen lots out here in farming country that would do the job. You could use a tractor stack flap. You would look like a semi-trailer however :-) Failing all this why not just go to an oil wetable filter up top and do away with the oil altogether.Dave VE4PN From "Steve Methley" Sun Apr 30 15:12:19 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 15:12:19 +0100 From: "Steve Methley" Subject: Welsh off road, BOSTON visit 1. Offroad trip - not. Well, I tried to make it to the S Wales off road trial day recently advertised here, even went to get some new Tracker tyres for the back to boot. Half way there and thud, crash, bang, one new back tyre starts giving away tread like it's going out of fashion. As I had another Tracker on the same axle and only one spare, I decided to return home slowly . The tyre I changed for the spare had huge chunks of central tread missing and had obviously been running hot. Just wait until Monday morning when I go to the shop who sold me this. I wonder what compensation I should expect? The Trackers are remould mud pattern tyres rated as Q (99mph). I was pottering along at 65mph! Sorry to those who were kind enought to send the map to me, next time! 2. Boston, MA Thanks to all those who replied who lived near Boston and would like to meet for a chat. I'll be at the Holiday Inn, Boston-Woburn (617) 932 0999 for the evenings of 1, 2 and 3 May. I might well have a free day on Thursday the way it's going at the moment. I'd be delighted to meet. -- Best Regards, Steve (UK). (79 RR, ex Lightweight). From terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Sun Apr 30 17:44:30 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 17:44:30 +0200 From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Subject: Shuttle valves Is the shuttle valve on a Series III with dual braking system actally supposed to close of a leaking system? I know it will trigger the failure switch if such is the case, but should the faulty system be closed off? I've just taken one apart, and I cant see how it should do that. I once broke a rear brake pipe, and lost all brakes. I'm a bit unsure about this, the factory repair manual is a bit unclear on this point. If it does not close off the leaky system, what is the point of dual brake systems? terje@tvnorge.no http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html From Craig Murray Mon May 1 12:09:01 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 12:09:01 EST From: Craig Murray Subject: Re: Snorkels Andy I put a snorkle on my 2.25 diesel at the start of the year. What I did was to move the battery under the drivers seat, as the engine bay of a series 1 is narrower of later models, put a 2.5 air cleaner in, as it is suited to using for a snorkle, then I used 2 2.5" and 3" rubber elbows, and got an exhaust place to make up all the piping, and put a pre-cleaner on that I bought from a tractor wreakers. It looks pretty neat, and all up, only cost about $150, as for putting an oil bath air cleaner on the roof, I would be too worried about ripping it off. -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! From Andrew Grafton Sun Apr 30 10:54:07 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 95 10:54:07 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Re: Hi! Diesel answers. please... Forwarded message: >From mcajg2 Fri Apr 28 14:01:41 1995 From Brian Neill Tiedemann Mon May 1 04:50:34 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 04:50:34 +3400 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: rr stuff Hi all, I am new to the list and have a few comments + q's. Firstly.. Regarding bleeding brakes/clutches, I have found that a plastic 'Coke' (tm i guess) bottle cap with a hole punched in it and a schrader valve from a defunct motorbike tube inserted and held sealed using a nut and o-ring works wonders. The cap had to be shortened a few mm to seal well. (keep these caps in mind if u need an 'emergency' one) Nextly.. I am after any parts of, or a complete PTO in any condition to suit a rr 4 speed (pref. in Australia). Nextly.. In order to fit 9x32" Swampers under my 77 RR I have lifted the body 2" off the chasis. Anyone interested in the how or particularly the handbrake linkages/mods need only ask. Nextly.. I am building a replacement engine for my 3.5. It is based on a 4.4 litre Leyland P76 block resleeved (now just under 5.0 l)and using rover heads, timing case, sump and efi manifold. I have made numerous small mods to fit everything nicely and feed it all with oil, but any suggestions or advice on the engine in general or particularly improving the breathing capacity of the heads/manifold combo would be great. Nextly.. Any suggestions for the best performing LPG mixer/converter combinations to use with the EFI system? Current 3.5 has 2 ring mixers ahead of the strombergs fed by a landi harthog converter (I don't think this conv. will feed a revving 5 litre engine anyhow). Nextly.. I seek any technical info at all on the factory rr 3.5 efi system. Circuit/calibration info for the ecu and flap type airflow meter would be a BIG help. Also anyone know if the Vitesse/SE car computer or manifold were same as rr... Differences? AND is a Lucas (yuk) 4cu 87314A ecu a vitesse/SE or a rr ecu? Anyone ever used the factory system on a higher capacity or hp engine? Lastly.. if anyone needs a plug for a rr ecu then try a volksy wrecker. Two litre combi vans have the same plug as do some Audis, BMWs, Jags and Mercs. All Bosch L-jetronic systems. May need to buy 2 VW plugs to get enough pins to fill the rover plug, but mine cost around $2 each which compared kinda well to $50-$100-"No F.n way Mate" for the other (same) makes. Thanks in advance.... The list is great. BFN Brian Tiedemann (S914440@minyos.xx.rmit.edu.au) Leaks but I luv it. 77 RR From Russell Burns Sat Apr 29 19:43:19 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 19:43:19 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Tails of the D-90 repairs. After getting rear ended on the freeway from a Hammit, I thought it might be nice to get the beast repaired. It seems that the Hammit hit me with a little more force than I realized. The bumper of the hammit hit the top of the rear hoop of the roll cage, even with the upper support pieces. The force of the crash bent the tire carrier, the tail gate, and the rear panel where the hinges attach. It also cracked the fiberglass top in a number of places. It also buckled the front fenders where the roll cage attaches. My wife drove the beast to AAA to get an estimate for the insurance. It seems that AAA does not have A D-90 listed in their estimate books. I then called the dealership where I bought the rover. The dealership does not do their own body work, so they recommended a third party bump shop. So monday I get to visit the bumpshop, and get an estimate for the insurance. Befor I get the rover repaired, I have to inform the insurance company so they can accompany the truck to the body shop. If I hadn't paid all this money for collision insurance I would have got out the glue, and the 5 pound sledge and repaired the SOB myself. I will let you know what the body shop comes up with for a estimate. I am sure it will get interesting. Russ\ 94 D-90 slightly bent 91 R-ROver P.S. I know am a firm beliver in FULL roll cages.... From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sun Apr 30 01:37:29 1995 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 1995 01:37:29 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: gen'l ? twin carb maintenance, adju Bill Caloccia asks.. > What about the twin carbs.... ? > Anyway, I'm told that these carbs like to have three-in-one-oil or some > such put in the dash pot, lest they go out of tune more quickly, and if > they do go out of tune, then you need twin vacuum guages to adjust I've alternately used ATF and light weight oil in the SU's on the Triumph for years. Both seem to work equally as well. There actually is a "dashpot oil" that you can buy but I suspect it is just light oil. As far as tuning the carbs, you use the vacuum guage to set the idle only. If you have a good ear, you can use just a piece of rubber fuel line hose and listen to the hiss from the carb throat. While it isn't as accurate as using a UniSyn it does work. Before you try to balance the carbs, you need to make sure the linkage is properly adjusted so that both throttles open at the same time. You also need to have the mixture adjusted properly and the timing adjusted properly. Then when the engine has warmed up you can balance the idle adjustment. The idea is to get each carb drawing the same amount of air and keep the idle speed down to specs. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol From Russell Burns Sat Apr 29 19:48:16 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 19:48:16 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: D-90 trailer hitches. A while ago some was complaining about the USA Spec trailer hitch recepticle. Their complaint was that the ground clearance was comprmised, and that they could not install a Pinto (sp) hitch on the rear cross member. Well if they had crawled un the truck, they would have seen that the step, and tralier hitch receptacle can be unbolted from the rear cross member. Russ From rclizza@uclink2.berkeley.edu (Ryan C. Lizza) Sat Apr 29 14:19:44 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 14:19:44 -0800 From: rclizza@uclink2.berkeley.edu (Ryan C. Lizza) Subject: Importing LR'S I have read the messages from many who are concerned with importing LRs from the UK to the US. I am also concerned with that issue. I do not know how exactly it is done nor do I know of any import/export company that could help me in this endeavor. I am looking to buy a LR in the UK and importing it over here to the US towards the end of 95. If anyone knows anything concerning how one does this I would appreciate a reply. Or if anyone has ever imported a car from the UK in the past, I would appreciate their response. I know how and where to buy a LR in the UK, I just don't know how to cheaply and feasibly provide for its crossing of the Atlantic. Thanks David Manchester From Mark Perry Sat Apr 29 03:51:08 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 03:51:08 -0500 (CDT) From: Mark Perry Subject: How long should it be? 1. I've just bought a used Tirfor manual winch, but it needs the lever arm. Can any Tirforistes out there tell me how long a piece of steel tube I'll need for the right leverage? This BTW renders my Aeroparts Engineering-type capstan winch - which lacks entire drive-train and clutch - redundant, in case anyone is looking for spares. 2. Speaking of steel wheels for Discos, I noticed in the April LRO Int'l mag that the Camel Trophy Discos appeared to be so equipped. 3. One of the sports columnists at the paper I work for was wondering in his column why the America's Cup coverage on TV, a sailboat race, was sponsored by Land Rover. I left him a note proposing two theories, the first that driving a LR and taking part in or watching a yacht race required one to be a masochist (I used to sail); the second theory had more to do with advertising, and the sort of people who can afford 12-metre yachts to go with their Range Rovers. I pointed out to him that the cheapest new LR price in our town was CDN$33,800 for a base D90, as advertised last week. Mark Perry '66 Ser.IIA 88" Hardtop Winnipeg, Manitoba "If it isn't leaking, Canada R3J 2G3 it's probably out of something." From JDolan2109@aol.com Sat Apr 29 05:17:38 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 1995 05:17:38 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Query resp.;fwd Msg Was unable to mail this direct (host unknown). Sometimes I think they should change AOL to SOL! Maybe Ian Stuart will get this via here: ---- Well, manhole covers are round so that they can not possibly fall in the hole while someone is in there! Square/rectangular covers can. It implies the element/factor of safety. Don't think I was right about the generalization of winches and pulleys though... Jim ------- Thanx for bandwidth, See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Sat Apr 29 07:35:35 1995 Date: Sat, 29 Apr 95 07:35:35 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: Series Land Rover body panels All, I would like to pass this on to you all. There is a guy down in Florida who imports body panels for land rovers. He gets doors, door tops, bumpers, hoods etc. He done a deal with P.W.B in England who make these items for the likes of Craddock and Merseyside Land Rover. If anyone on the net is rebuilding or needs to replace any body panels, give him a call. Jim Cartier 813-399-2961 Rgds Mark From i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Mon May 1 13:50:48 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 13:50:48 BST From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Subject: Re: SIII Door Hinge removal Hello again Simple question: How do you remove the hinges from a SIII. Simple Ans: You undo the bolts! But we all know it's not as easy as that because THERE'S ALWAYS ONE!! or in my case there's three! My problem is that the nuts fixing the bulkhead part of the hinge, which are supposedly fixed, spin when I try to unscrew the bolt. How do you get at them? And, if I do manage to undo them, how do I replace them? I think that a lot of the series owners must have come up against this one, so all I can say is HELP. Cheers Ian From "KING.B.P" Mon May 1 12:22:07 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 12:22:07 BST From: "KING.B.P" Subject: subscribe subscribe From Guy Arnold Mon May 1 09:06:46 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 09:06:46 EDT From: Guy Arnold Subject: Landrover for Sale I have a 1972 Series III swb for sale. It has 57,000 miles and is very good condition. The frame is solid with the rear cross member replaced and one body outrigger. The frame has been undercoated. It has four new B.F. Goodrich Mud/Snow 15" tires and a new Rover North's exhaust system. It also has a new battery and rebuilt transmission. I recently replaced the hubseals and spacers. The interior is very good with almost new seats. There are no major dents or damage to the body. It is inspected and was licensed so it can be driven anywhere. The vehicle is located in upstate New York and I am asking $3,000.00. I can be reached by E-mail or call me at 315-265-2965 after 6pm. From i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Mon May 1 13:43:24 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 13:43:24 BST From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Subject: Re:110 Mirrors Hi there Had a productive weekend. Put ny new driving lamps on the old SWB and also bought those 110 mirrors for the doors. It's great I can now see where I'm going and where I've been. The 110 mirrors are ineded a vast improvement over the SII ones. It is a simple (is it ever, see my other letter) job of removing your top door hinges and drilling a couple of holes for the bolts which secure the mirrors. I'd strongly recommend it exp. if you have no side windows in the back (and if your not too worried about authenticity. Thanks again for your advice folks. Ian From Mike Rooth Mon May 1 10:50:49 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 10:50:49 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Poor Hamish & Lanchlen's Landy If you were watching closely,there was a shot of the number plate.Its an "L" reg,('72/'73).Therefore S111. Cheers Mike Rooth From Charlie Wright Mon May 1 11:44:44 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:44:44 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: 3.54 diffs/speedo. Here's a good one for you, I hope someone has tried this before. I have a IIa 109 with standard IIa gearbox/transfer box. I have just bought a pair of axles (3.54 diffs) off a stage I V8 (rear is Salisbury, front has CV joints) and the appropriate prop shafts. I will install next weekend. This serves two purposes: A) it eliminates the need for an overdrive and strengthens the axles (I had an old Rover car axle in back) and B) it prepares me for eventual big engine upgrade when I take this back to the 'states (no flames for originality, etc, please. I want a ready supply of local parts and a bigger motor). My question: The speedo will be out of calibration (read low) by about 25%. I can have it recalibrated for lots o' dosh. I can re-paint the dial [cheaper ;-)], but that doesn't solve the odometer. BUT: Can I use the speedo off the Stage I. It was mated to a RangeRover gearbox, so I really don't know if it would work. I would need a series III speedo cable. I think it works like this: Transfer Box / == Magic gearing for speedo cable (X:1 ratio) | / |==[|||]=====================(|) | \ \ == Speedo cable Speedometer in cab. The problem: is the 'magic gearing' similar on IIa and Rangie boxes? If this read straight off the prop shaft, it would be fine, but it doesn't. I don't know what the Prop Shaft:Speedo output ratio is on the two gearboxes. Does anyone know, know where to look, or have 1st hand experience? (I don't have the Rangie box to sit down and count the revolutions, sorry) All input greatly appreciated. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From Peter Aslan Mon May 1 10:20:12 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:20:12 +0100 (BST) From: Peter Aslan Subject: Clutch problems. Before my Mk2 1960 was layed up for about 10 years, I Recall the clutch worked fine. Now I get a Lot of Slip, I'm even having problems taking moderate hills on the Road, Off Road a lot of slip, particularly in reverse. Less Slip in Low ratio, but thats probably because the load is reduced. Is this a problem with the clutch like oil on the Flywheel ? Or rust ?? Will it just go away ? I am an infrequent user, probably about 200 miles a month, mostly off road servicing a small holding. It appears to be the same every time I use it, not getting a lot worse, but then not getting any better. So, any wisdom out there, anything I can check before I have to pull the engine and look at inners Ps, Engine re-built about 500 miles ago and running fine. I'm sure I checked the Clutch when it was apart. Peter Aslan (aka Captain Norton). Louden Quill Award. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- McDonnell Information Systems Boundary Way Hemel Hempstead Voice: 0442 273324 Hertfordshire HP2 7HU Fax: 0442 244896 ENGLAND Mail: paslan@uk.mdis.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From "Francis J. Twarog" Mon May 1 10:43:42 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 10:43:42 -0400 (EDT) From: "Francis J. Twarog" Subject: Series stuff I'm interested in getting a couple of things for my '70 IIA 88". First, an original LR snorkel kit - doeas anyone have one that they'd be willing to sell? If not, has someone found an air filter that might easily be attached to a (appx. 2") PVC tubing w/ some kind of water/dust shield to cover it? Also, and this is a repost for those of you who have already seen it - does anyone have a nice set of series 2 style vent controls - the turning knob types? I'd be interested in purchasing those as well. I'd greatly appreciate any direct responses (since I find myself missing out on the digest at least once or twice a week - must be my server) along w/ an idea of how much you'd be asking. Thanks Frank Twarog Vermont, USA P.S. - I'm also looking for feedback on the fiberglass top for Defender 90s - I'd like to get one, but I've heard more bad things about them than good. I'd really like to know if people generally find them to be worth the cost. Thanks. From "David McKain" Mon May 1 11:20:01 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:20:01 EDT From: "David McKain" Subject: Tops Concerning my Land Rover. I have been thinking about putting a soft top on my SIIa 88" for a while and had planned on making my own. Galvanized electrical conduit can be used for the frame which, as of the last time I checked, was dirt cheap ($3 for a 10 foot section of 1 1/4" OD conduit) and the wall thickness gives it good rigidity. At first I though about cutting and sewing my own canvas but was struck with a bolt of genius (or stupidity). I had planned on only making a sort of bikini top with one piece of canvas. This would only give a horizontal cover to the vehicle and leave the sides and back open for the summer. I thought that instead of making it out of canvas, I could build it from heavy plywood and not have to worry about leaks (ha, ha), canvas degradation, and flapping canvas disease. The reasons for this top are two fold. One, I haven't finished the hard top yet (paint and new window channels) and need new door tops and two, I would like to have the ability to remove the top at my convienience by myself. I'm bouncing this off the list because I figure that someone out there has used an alternative to the stock hard and soft tops. Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated. Take care, David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA From "David McKain" Mon May 1 11:26:26 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:26:26 EDT From: "David McKain" Subject: Lots o Rovers Anyone interested should know of 6 series LR's available at one place in WV. E-mail me direct for more information. 2 SIIa 88" 3 SIII 88" 1 SIIa 109" All have various damage to the frame but a couple. I think that the 109" is in the best shape. They are being sold as a lot for a relatively low price (appx. $4000). This would definitley be a deal for someone wanting to rebuild a couple of LR's and there would be a huge surplus of parts at the end. I hate to see these things lay around and collect no dirt so please e-mail if interested. David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA From "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com> 29 95 Apr EDT 1913 Date: 29 Apr 95 13:13:54 EDT From: "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com> Subject: Electronic Ignition for Series IIA ?? Hi Everyone, Just thought some of you might have had experience with an electronic ignition system for a series IIA. After almost 25 years of points and condenser on my Series IIA 88 petrol, I'm getting lazy and am thinking about one of those "pointless" ignitions that I use to see advertised years ago. Anyone have any experience with any of these systems? I think there use to be one called Lumitron or something like that which fit LR series distributors ?? Would appreciate any comments regarding reliability, performance, etc. of whatever is currently on market... Thanks! Tony Bonanno Santa Fe, New Mexico From "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Mon May 1 13:23:50 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 13:23:50 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Subject: Re: Series Land Rover body panels On Sat, 29 Apr 1995, Mark Talbot wrote: > of Craddock and Merseyside Land Rover. > If anyone on the net is rebuilding or needs to replace any body panels, give [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > Jim Cartier 813-399-2961 > Rgds Mark I can vouch with you on that, Mark. Jim is doing a *whole bunch* of work on the moose for me, and he is a terrific guy, very knowledgable, with lotz 'o spares... happy roverin' steve swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu '78 III 88 "Moose" From "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Mon May 1 13:30:15 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 13:30:15 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Subject: Re: How long should it be? > coverage on TV, a sailboat race, was sponsored by Land Rover. I left him a > note [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > second theory had more to do with advertising, and the sort of > people who can afford 12-metre yachts to go with their Range Rovers. I I have heard that LR sponsors a racing venue in the UK that is supposed to be relatively cool... Anyone with any experience? From "Lapa, Hank" Mon May 01 13:27:29 1995 Date: Mon, 01 May 95 13:27:29 EST From: "Lapa, Hank" Subject: "Optronic" Ignition I installed a Luminition a few years back, having seen it carried by Rovers North for some time. It uses an electronic eye and a spinning beam chopper under the distributor cap to send spark to the proper wire. I remember the advert saying "as used in the Scorpion light tank" or some such. Only complication to installation is sawing off a brass post in the distributor housing, and changing to negative earth if your car is as old as mine. Hank From bfreeman@heartland.bradley.edu (Benjamin Freeman) Mon May 1 12:54:00 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 12:54:00 CDT From: bfreeman@heartland.bradley.edu (Benjamin Freeman) Subject: Looking for "?" Hi, all a non-netter friend and fellow Land Rover owner asked me to find him something special. So I'm in search of his request, thus your now courious as to what that is. Well he is looking to buy a Mercedes-Benz motorhome. I myself know very little about these rigs, I've only seen one or two in my life. So I'm asking others for any information they may have or for any suggestions were I can locate one for him. I believe he's looking for one in very good condition, since he's planning a drive to St. Louis, MO. In July. So if anyone knows anything that would be of help please let me know. Benjamin J. Freeman 13739-Linden Ave. N. #C-102 Seattle, WA 98133 (206)365-3514 or e-mail me directly at: bfreeman@heartland.bradley.edu Again I'll mention that he is looking to buy but will also trade as well. Well thanks very much for any informantion you can help with. From "Lapa, Hank" Mon May 01 13:53:27 1995 Date: Mon, 01 May 95 13:53:27 EST From: "Lapa, Hank" Subject: Hand throttle with aftermarket carb All, Has anyone managed to install a Weber 2-bbl carb and retain the hand throttle function on a Series vehicle? Or is this combination mutually exclusive without considerable engineering/tinkering? My Weber has been in for some years, gives me very creditable mileage/power despite what seems to be a rob-power-to-save-gas reputation. Hank 1960 Series II petrol (LHD) From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Mon May 1 11:08:03 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:08:03 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: BSROA irregularities I'd have to disagree with this post. I think Spencer's queries were relevant/appropriate, and I would like to hear an explanation. I long avoided joining BSROA due to its high dues, and its (IMHO) emphasis on glossy folders, etc. Seeing an open dioscussion about the club's finances and activities could either reaffirm my decision, or cause me to reconsider and join. -jory >In reply to a posting from : > As a LR owner/enthusiast, I am voicing my STRONG OBJECTION to finding [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > president) at work, or send him an e-mail (jpappa01@interserv.com). > Since you are no longer an active club member, you have no business From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Mon May 1 11:35:22 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 11:35:22 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: Re: Looking for "?" I once saw a slightly oversized Mercedes van with a westphalia conversion... is this the beast? It was quite nice. The owner was part of the "management" at Arcosanti (this weird place I worked/volunteered one summer which is trying to build a new type of city blending elemenets of architecture and ecology). Anyway, if he's really rabid, he could try contacting this guy (whose name I don't have ;) Arcosanti is located in Mayer, AZ (in the middle of the arizona dessert). -jory :Hi, all a non-netter friend and fellow Land Rover owner asked me :to find him something special. So I'm in search of his request, :thus your now courious as to what that is. Well he is looking to :buy a Mercedes-Benz motorhome. I myself know very little about :these rigs, I've only seen one or two in my life. So I'm asking :others for any information they may have or for any suggestions :were I can locate one for him. I believe he's looking for one :in very good condition, since he's planning a drive to St. Louis, :MO. In July. So if anyone knows anything that would be of help :please let me know. From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Mon May 1 11:48:26 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 11:48:26 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: Shuttle valves In message <199505010829.JAA00268@chunnel.uk.stratus.com> Terje Krogdahl writes: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > Is the shuttle valve on a Series III with dual braking system actally [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] > dual brake systems? > terje@tvnorge.no You came to one of the discoverys I made while installing power duel brakes on my IIA 109. Pressure from the rear most cylinder is what pushes the front piston. If the system that is fed by the rear most piston springs a leak, your brakeless. I think you should have brakes in the rear system if the system fed by the front piston goes. If memory serves me, the rear system serves the front brakes on a 109 and the rear brakes on an 88. There is a "missing" part in the duel brake systems that came into the US on Late series IIA and Series III 88s (through '74). 109s were not imported into the US with duel brake systems. The "missing" part is an 'H' shaped assembly that both front & rear brake systems pass through. It has a sliding piston. If pressure is lost in one system, the pressure from the other side pushes the piston to block off the circuit without pressure. It also trips a warning light switch and a little red light is lit on your insturment panel. This seals the open brake system before air is allowed into the upper circuit. Sometime after I purchased my '68 MGBGT I went to adjust the rear brakes and discovered that there was no fluid in the rear (The red light was disconnected). I had been running on the front brakes only since I had purchased the car. The previous owner evidently put in new wheel cylinders & shoes and did not reset the piston in the "H". I reset the piston, bled the rear brakes & they worked fine ever after. I believe Rover added this "H" assembly to the Land Rover sometime after '74. I understand that the correct part is NLA. However, I suspect the equivilant part from a late MG or Triumph could be plumbed in to do the job. If memory serves me the on for the TR8 has two outlets on one side which would allow stock routing of the front brake lines. Putting one of these "H" parts and replacing all my brake lines is expected to be one of my summer projects this year. I've had one rust through a few years ago & suspect others may not be in much better condition. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From Russell Burns Mon May 1 12:58:54 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 12:58:54 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: D-90 damage update Well the insurance estmate is $6K, for something I could fix with a 5 pound sledge..... If I get to keep all the "bad" parts, I will make out. Russ Burns 94 d-90 very expensive, slight damage. 91 R-R0ver From ScottFugate_Group1@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Mon May 1 15:37:05 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 95 15:37:05 EDT From: ScottFugate_Group1@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Subject: Query - Range Rover Tech Info Hello LROs, I am a step closer tp my Range Rover acquisition. The jeep is sold and I am commuting in my IIA. Planned for next weekend is a trip to Atlanta and some serious looking and haggling. If any of you Georgia LROs know of leads on a good 90 or 91, please let me know. Can some one tell me what is the proper compression reading on a 90 or 91? If an otherwise good higher-mileage example is found I will definitely check engine compression. While I'm on the subject of RR tech data, are shop manuals available from any source in the U.S.? I was going to get one from the LRO Bookstore in England, but shipping was going to be 30 something quid, so I backed off. Do dealers sell these to the great unwashed? Thanks for the help. Scott Fugate Knoxville, Tennessee 70 IIA 88 From Charlie Wright Mon May 1 21:39:33 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 21:39:33 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: D-90 damage update I think you got off pretty reasonably, considering the damage you describe. If the cage was bent badly enough to damage the front _wings_, it should be replaced (they run about 800 pounds here, from the manufacturer in Suffolk) and they should check the chassis where it mounts... could be bent, cracked at the joins. Doesn't sound out of line for a 'professional' repair. Charlie From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Mon May 1 17:16:12 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 17:16:12 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Nigel's Disease Seems my Rover has once again been stricken with "Nigel's Disease." To the uninitiated, this malady is highly contagious. All that is required is that somone mention some unfortunate degradation of their Rover (in this case, deterioration of stainless steel mufflers/pipes), and it propagates itself through the 'net. Anyway, I've got a set of the "Double S" pipes that supposedly were garanteed until the apocolypse, yet they have failed twice in the last year. The pipes/muffler are great - it's the cast steel flanges that have fallen off. Hopefully, I can get it rewelded tomorrow. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From UncleBrad@aol.com Mon May 1 22:36:03 1995 Date: Mon, 1 May 1995 22:36:03 -0400 From: UncleBrad@aol.com Subject: LROA,NA meeting The Land Rover Owners Association of North America will be holding a Steering Committee meeting on May 13 at Murrillo's Restaraunt near Vacaville, CA at 11:00am. This is the first meeting this year. There are typically several meetings each year. The group usually has lunch at the restaraunt, each person paying for his own. Any members interested are invited to attend. Members will be discussing the direction of the club for this year and what it is going to take to get there. As is the case with every club, there is always room for people who would like to help out. Whether you are one of those people or not, you are welcome to attend. If you would like to attend the meeting, feel free to give me a call at 510-687-1188 and I will give you more specific directions. Brad Blevins From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Wed May 3 17:25:31 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 17:25:31 -0500 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Rattle and Hum Thought I'd throw this one out to the list which, by the way, must be down for maintenance or something. Anyway, my SRIIA 88 has some strange sounds coming from it...sounds that haven't been there before. Here's what happens: At the bottom of each gear at low revs, I'm hearing a metalic-like rattle (kinda like something's loose). As the revs get higher the rattle disappears. It appears to be coming from the back of the motor right below the transmission hump (Of course, I'm the same guy who changed the front drive axle on my VW to get rid of a squeak which turned out to be the rear emergency brake cable) Is my engine going to blow up? Is this a clutch going bad? Chris Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From "David McKain" Thu May 4 13:45:52 1995 Date: Thu, 4 May 1995 13:45:52 EDT From: "David McKain" Subject: BRLRC Parkersburg Meet I would like to know wether anyone out there in cyberspace is going to the BRLRC off-road meet in Parkersburg, WV this weekend. If you need information on the event please e-mail direct. This should be a serious off-road trip considering the amount of rain in the area and the famous red clay of the area. The organizers expect over 40 land rovers to attend and, as a side, both the organizer and one of the attendees are beer distributors (Guiness for all). See you there David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA From David John Place Wed May 3 16:49:03 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 16:49:03 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Series stuff For the snorkel top piece (filter) go to what we up in Canada call a "speed" shop and get a single barrel chrome air filter housing commonly use on the Rochester carbs of the 1960s. It comes with a paper filter and it will fit inside the same diameter hose the Land Rover uses on the oil bath. For hose you can use the cloths dryer type with the spring interior support and plastic outer layer but you will have to go to a store that sells heater duct since dryer vent hose is too large. Stainless clamps will complete the job. You can clamp a piece of stainless into the top clamp that fits into the small elongated slot on the rain gutter just over the drivers front window. I mentioned to someone else on the net that the old Ser I oil bath with the side mounted air intake pipe would make a great filter at the bottom of all this. It has an outlet hose and a side mounted inlet pipe. Dave VE4PN From Charlie Wright Wed May 3 19:27:06 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 19:27:06 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Speedo I think we have a server problem, but here goes. Using the calculation Daryl provided, R1/4.7*3.54=R2, I find that I need a speedometer with a 1060 ratio. Now, is there a way to find out what used what as far as old speedometers go? I didn't see it as a FAQ (I doubt it would or should be). Cheers, Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From afpgreg@gatekeeper.ddp.state.me.us (Paul V. Gregory) Wed May 3 15:47:27 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 15:47:27 -0400 From: afpgreg@gatekeeper.ddp.state.me.us (Paul V. Gregory) Subject: 88" P.U.Cab brace Attention U.K. Rover bretherin (or sisterin).... Anyone nearby Craddocks or another reputable Land Rover boneyard willing to ring up and inquire whether the following part for my '65 88" is available: Part no. 330767. This is a brace which supports the rear of a pick-up cab as attached on an 88". Before resorting to costly fabrication, I was wondering if I could still bag the genuine article. Also, kudos to fellow LROnetters Tom Rowe and Tom Spoto in the States, Dixon Kenner in Canada who have been invaluably helpful by their guidance in this this matter. Thanks guys. --Paul, in Maine where blackflies are now workin' up an appetite. From Alan Richer 4 95 May EDT 1908 Date: 4 May 95 8:18:15 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Where can I buy an Acoustikit in the US? Greetings to the aluminum assemblage... In speaking with another august member of this group, I learned of a wondrous thing called an Acoustikit - adhesive sound-deadening pads for Land Rovers. As the Diesel pickup I'm working on is to be my daily driver and I want to retain what's left of my hearing...8*), I would really like to purchase one of these kits, or materials to make one. Anybody? Yours, Alan From REDCO@aol.com Wed May 3 21:50:13 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 21:50:13 -0400 From: REDCO@aol.com Subject: unsubscribe lro digest unsubscribe lro digest From David John Place Wed May 3 17:04:36 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 17:04:36 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Austin Parts Since so many parts of the Austin Marina fit Land Rover and I suspect for less money, does anyone out there know of a specialty source of Austin Parts preferably in N.A. but U.K. would be OK as well. Dave VE4PN From Sekerere@aol.com Wed May 3 23:01:42 1995 Date: Wed, 3 May 1995 23:01:42 -0400 From: Sekerere@aol.com Subject: no LRO digest No LRO digest has been delivered since last Friday (April 28). Is this something abnormal??????? Cheers Chris From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Thu May 04 19:47:19 1995 Date: Thu, 04 May 95 19:47:19 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: def 90 4 sale Def 90 for sale lhd 2.5 diesel soft top, road legal in Canada 10.5k 4 info e mail name and phone number and fax for details -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | OttawFrom carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) Fri May 5 00:57:04 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 00:57:04 -0700 From: carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) Subject: Troubleshooting Gear Grinding My '66 IIa frequently grinds going into 1st,2nd or reverse. I'd appreciate any experienced advice on the next step to persue. Here's the case: Both master & slave cylinder appear to be in good shape (no leaks, etc.). The local LR mechanic adjusted both the pedal and slave, but (to his surprise) the problem persists. The known facts: * when the engine's cold, gears engage OK. After warming up, it can verge on impossible. * Sometimes 3rd is hard to find: doesn't grind, just won't go. * oil leaks from the flywheel drain hole. I'm not certain if it's 90-weight from the tranny or engine oil from the rear main seal. Is the release mechanism (throwout bearing) the most likely cause, or is should I look more at the hydraulics? Or might it be the tranny itself? What's the best way to tell if I need clutch work or cylinder work without trial and error? Thanks, CJC From terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Thu May 05 10:22:34 1994 Date: Thu, 05 May 1994 10:22:34 +0200 From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Subject: Re: Shuttle valve >The "missing" part is an 'H' shaped assembly >that both front & rear brake systems pass through. It has a sliding piston. If >pressure is lost in one system, the pressure from the other side pushes the >piston to block off the circuit without pressure. It also trips a warning light >switch and a little red light is lit on your insturment panel. This seals the >open brake system before air is allowed into the upper circuit. The 'H' shaped assembly you are speaking of is indeed the aforementioned shuttle valve, I believe. Mine does indeed have a sliding piston and a warning light switch. Now, my point is that the very design of this part does not seem to enable it to do anything but trip the switch. The ends of the pistons are not designed to close off the faulty brake system! Also, the service manual makes no mention of such a capability, merely that the warning light should be tripped. Can't really see the point of such a gadget though... I usually notice when there are no brakes left :-) Terje Krogdahl 1972 88" SIII terje@tvnorge.no http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html From Andrew Grafton Fri May 5 10:01:44 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 10:01:44 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: SIII 109" Differentials Hiya! The time has come to think about getting rid of the play in the diffs of our SIII 109" diesel. The axles are standard with a Salisbury on the rear and the usual one on the front. Play in the diffs is about 45 degrees on the rear and 35 on the front. The figure is rotation of the propshaft with both wheels held. I think that's excessive, but correct me if I'm wrong. The diff input/output shaft seal has gone on both front and rear, and I guess the excessive wear is due to the previous owner running the diffs with no oil in. The rear diff gets to dangerously-low-oil-level within about 350 miles of being topped up. Enquiries suggest that you need a hydraulic spreading device to dismantle the diffs and that it is cheaper (UK) just to go out and buy a complete second hand axle. Any comments? I'd be particularly interested to find out why the diffs are so badly worn, esp. the front one, as I can't imagine it was under load for anything like the percentage of time the rear one was... Any suggestions? The LR is '82 and otherwise in extremely good condition. No idea how many miles it's done but it has had a replacement engine at some stage. All the best and thanks for any advice you can offer, Andy From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Fri May 5 20:17:26 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 20:17:26 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: SIII 109" Differentials Well looks like we're back on line after a few days :-) Andy writes: > Enquiries suggest that you need a hydraulic spreading > device to dismantle the diffs and that it is cheaper > (UK) just to go out and buy a complete second hand axle. I cant see how you would need a spreader for the front. Supposedly you do for the rear but I've never found anyone who had one, not even dealers. When I pulled the centre out of my salisbury to fit the diff lock I did it with two tyre levers, made sure I kept all of the shims from each side seperate and gentle pushed the whole shebang back in with a rubber mallet. (Of course I dont recommend anyone else do this.....) The diff in question is from a '72/73 ute and has since done at least 120K miles in two different vehicles, one with a worked 3.3L six conversion the other 3.5 V8. I pulled it out in '86 the bearings were a bit scuffed but basically ok then. Its just starting to whine a bit now but only if you sit in te back and really listen. > Any comments? Before you strip out the diffs check the axles and flange splines, these do wear and can become quite a mess, particularly the driven flanges. I've seen them completely stripped out..... This may well be a large part of your problem, and a whole heap cheaper than new diffs.... If you can find them I'd try to fit leather pinion seals, I had all sorst of problems with the rear diff chewing out pinion flanges and seals about every 12-18 months. Some other LR owner suggested the leather type seals. More expensive but I havent fitted a pinion seal in.... Rear 9 years (when the diff lock went in) front.. ah..7 or 8. The front gets a bit damp but doesnt leak as such.. Of course YMMV -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From 05 95 May EDT 1907 Date: 05 May 95 07:27:13 EDT From: Subject: Green Lanes & UCR's Croeso, Can anyone help me with an update of Green Lanes & UCR's in Mid Wales, around the Brecon area. I have driven some of the un-surfaced roads in this area for some years, but I am getting conflicting reports from (friendly) locals & other authorities as to which roads are open or closed to vehicles. i.e.The Gap Road - locals say closed, Green Lane Guru says open. The Talybont Road - does this have a TRO or Voluntary restraint. The Sarn Helen - National Park Warden says you cannot drive across the common near the Mountain Centre ? true or false? also, what is the situation down by the open cast coal mine? Since it is awkward for me to get down to the local Rights of Way Office I would appreciate any assistance in updating up my maps. Any offers of help gratefully appreciated, Glenn From Richard Jones Fri May 5 13:30:10 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 13:30:10 +0100 (BST) From: Richard Jones Subject: Re: Top Gear - Judge Dredd (fwd) Haas writes: > I have to admit I was disappointed in Top Gear's coverage - but this is a > general trend. It seems to me that about 2 or 3 year's ago the program began to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > prosaic of the majority of cars reviewed. Did this change coincide with the > departure of William Woolard, I wonder? No the departure of Tom Ross (former Producer). -- _ __ Apricot Computer Limited ' ) ) / 3500 Parkside Tel: (+44) 121 717 7171 /--' o _. /_ Birmingham Business Park Fax: (+44) 121 717 0123 / \_<_(__/ <_ BIRMINGHAM B37 7YS Richard Jones United Kingdom Email: richardj@apricot.co.uk From Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 05 95 May EDT 1908 Date: 05 May 95 08:46:29 EDT From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Trailer Hitch Russ: I use my D90 for towing a U.S. Army M-416 utility trailer (for some reason, I can't bring myself to fill the back with manure yet) which uses a NATO-spec pintle hitch. This works great for a couple of reasons... one is strength the other is ability to function off-road. There is a great picture of a 109 towing an M-416 in the latest Aluminum Workhorse, BTW. My solution to the D90 hitch (which is mounted too LOW for a useful off-road trailer which has it's neck about 20" off the ground) was to buy a J.C. Whitney adapter ($40) that plugs into the Class III box but has a plate on the end to mount a pintle. You pull a pin and the whole unit pulls out of the back for storage and leaves your ground clearance in good shape. You can even pull the whole step bumperette off, but I doubt I'll do that any time soon. I just finished restoring my NATO Pintle (so it would not look out of place on shiny D90) and the mount is perfect. Nice thing about this particular pintle is that it is *made* for off-road use and when you pull a pin out it rotates 360 degrees, allowing your trailer to follow you into some really hairy places. I have had it behind my 88 in places that would have ripped a ball right off. The final benefit is that the massive hunk of black metal, protruding several inches further out than the spare has managed to be intimidating enough to keep the &*)^ little skateboard cars from tailgating as much. Sorry to hear about your D90... Hope it gets back together soon. Cheers, Pierce From maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Fri May 05 06:49:52 1995 Date: Fri, 05 May 1995 06:49:52 -0400 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Subject: Re: Chris's Gearbox problems Let's see if this list is working now; Chris asked re gearbox problems: >My '66 IIa frequently grinds going into 1st,2nd or reverse. I'd appreciate >any experienced advice on the next step to persue. Since there is no syncro in any of these gears mentioned, this isn't that unusual if you aren't matching the gear-engine speeds and double clutching when shifting or shifting quicky. >* when the engine's cold, gears engage OK. After warming up, it can verge >on impossible. Just a shot in the dark, but maybe the flex hose is expanding once it gets warmed up, or the clutch master or slave seals fail when warm. >* oil leaks from the flywheel drain hole. I'm not certain if it's 90-weight >from the tranny or engine oil from the rear main seal. Touch your finger to it and smell it. Gear oil has a funky sulphury smell. Engine oil smells like, well engine oil. Good luck! Bill maloney@wings.atmail.com From Mail Delivery Subsystem <"vbormc::mailer-daemon"@essb.enet.dec.com> Fri May 5 14:59:45 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 14:59:45 MET DST From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <"vbormc::mailer-daemon"@essb.enet.dec.com> Subject: Returned mail: Service unavailable ----- Transcript of session follows ----- While talking to theyak.ilo.dec.com: >>> DATA <<< 552 Mail Action aborted - exceeded storage allocation 554 ... Service unavailable ----- Recipients of this delivery ----- Bounced, cannot deliver: ----- Unsent message follows ----- [deleted] From "Francis J. Twarog" Fri May 5 09:23:21 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 09:23:21 -0400 (EDT) From: "Francis J. Twarog" Subject: Returned mail: Remote protocol error (fwd) This message is in MIME format. The first part should be readable text, while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools. Send mail to mime@docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info. --QCT22169.799618355/transfer.stratus.com Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-ID: ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From Mike Slade Fri May 05 09:02:00 1995 Date: Fri, 05 May 1995 09:02:00 -0600 (MDT) From: Mike Slade Subject: Transmission ????'s Hi all, Perhaps some of you will recall that I am having a LR produced for me by a company back east. Well, it has been offered as an option to me as to what kind of transmission is going to be put in this vehicle (coil sprung 110, V8). My wife and I are leaning towards the automatic ZF transmission as offered in the Discovery. Initially I was hesitant to agree to an automatic, being raised on manual transmissions. After test driving a Disco with the 4-speed automatic I was pretty much sold on it. Taking into account this is going to be a RHD, and we are expecting our first child this July we thought it would just be easier all around to have an automatic. However- after reading various posts on the list regarding the fail-rate of the Disco tranny I am having serious second thoughts. Are the posts I'm reading just the normal fail-rate for a mass produced item like a transmission, or are there serious defects I should know about before making my choice? I, for one, know that I could switch to RHD manual tranny (it would be the 5 speed offered in teh 110/90), with no problems, and a wondering if it will just be better in the long run to get the 5-speed. If anyone has any information regarding the ZF tranny offered in the Disco and how it will perform in the long run, I would be very appreciative. Also, if anyone has info on the dependability of the 5-speed in the 110/90, that would also be a tremendous help. thanks, Michael PS '66 88 Still for sale From "Guzelis.Pete" 5 1995 May U 1908 Date: 5 May 1995 08:04:59 U From: "Guzelis.Pete" Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest I'm about to purchase a winch for my '94 Disco. Am working on a source for a front mounted receiver unit. I know that Warn makes one but they want $175 US which seems a little stiff. I like the idea of the portability of a removable winch (I think). Can use on the back end if I ever need to pull myself out backwwards. Any pitfalls? Ideas appreciated. Thanks. I live in sunny (Ha Ha) Long Beach, Ca. _______________________________________________________________________________ From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Fri May 5 09:05 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 09:05 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: More questions from a Newer Owner I have enjoyed my Land Rover for a month now, and I have come to love it! I do have a few questions about it. 1. When I go to the store to get gear oil, they have 75W-90, or 85W-140, or something else like that. What should I use? Which brands are best? What about synthetics? 2. I got a flat in one of the tires. The man at the tire store noticed there were inner tubes in all my tires. He said off road it is better not to have tubes. The PO said he put tubes in because he thought it was better for off road. What is you experience? 3. What do you do to people who think your new toy is a Toy-ota? (Even the insurance company thought so at first. They finally decided to call it a Range Rover.) 4. My father wants me to get a rear PTO so I can bush hog his farm. How feasible is this? (I would rather have an overdrive, and I know they are mutually exclusive options). I experienced joy the first day I drove to work. I passed a convoy of two Discoverys and a Range Rover. Got enthusiastic waves from all of them. I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my local USGS topo map. I spent most of the day after work yesterday working on that, and found some barely accessible places that looked like great campsites. I love this vehicle! James Howard 1972 SIII Flagstaff, Arizona, USA From grea@virgo.net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) Fri May 5 09:29:10 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 09:29:10 PDT From: grea@virgo.net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) Subject: 51 Series I for sale Posted this on Tuesday but got bounced. Not sure if it has been sold or not since then. From Russell Burns Fri May 5 10:04:45 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 10:04:45 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > 85W-140, or something else like that. What should I use? Which > brands are best? What about synthetics? I think the theory is the thinnest oil that will not leak out over night. In the winter a heaver weight is better, and lighter in the summer. Synthetics work well in wet locations. I think the synth runs out faster than the water can run in. If you can keep it off the garage floor, and can afford it synthetics are the best > 2. I got a flat in one of the tires. The man at the tire store > noticed there were inner tubes in all my tires. He said off road it > is better not to have tubes. The PO said he put tubes in because he > thought it was better for off road. What is you experience? Air, lots of it is the important item to keep in your tires. > 3. What do you do to people who think your new toy is a Toy-ota? (Even > the insurance company thought so at first. They finally decided to > call it a Range Rover.) > thought it was better for off road. What is you experience? I ran into that problem a AAA trying to get some dents out of my d-90. Since they have the checkbook, it is probably better that they don't know what it is. (they can`t make an estimate) > 3. What do you do to people who think your new toy is a Toy-ota? (Even ooj > 4. My father wants me to get a rear PTO so I can bush hog his farm. > How feasible is this? (I would rather have an overdrive, and I know > they are mutually exclusive options). Dealing with my father is also mutually exclusive, but I would just tell him to buy his own land rover.... > I experienced joy the first day I drove to work. I passed a convoy of > two Discoverys and a Range Rover. Got enthusiastic waves from all of > them. > thought it was better for off road. What is you experience? Must have been a Rover Ralley > I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my > local USGS topo map. I spent most of the day after work yesterday > working on that, and found some barely accessible places that looked > like great campsites. I love this vehicle! I also have camped in some barely accessible places. At least that is what I try to tell my friends when it takes a couple of days to extract my truck... > James Howard > 1972 SIII > Flagstaff, Arizona, USA > like great campsites. I love this vehicle! Welcome to the group. Just don't pay too much attention us. After all it is not every truck that will continue to run after a bunch of stupid home mechanics spend all weekend rebuilding something that they vaguely understand.... Russ Burns 94 D-90 91 R-Rover From harincar@internet.mdms.com Fri May 5 12:18:32 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 12:18:32 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner > I have enjoyed my Land Rover for a month now, and I have come to love > it! I do have a few questions about it. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > the insurance company thought so at first. They finally decided to > call it a Range Rover.) Ooh! I hope they don't base your insurance on Range Rovers. That might be like having your Ford pick up insurance based on Explorers. More expensive vehicle = more expensive insurance. I'd check this, my insurance (Allstate) had a separate catagory for Land Rovers. I had the reverse problem when I had a 'Cruiser - everyone thought it was a Rover. So I bought a Rover - problem solved :-) > I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my > local USGS topo map. I spent most of the day after work yesterday > working on that, and found some barely accessible places that looked > like great campsites. I love this vehicle! How do you volunteer for this? Can anyone/anywhere (in the US)? Info please. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@internet.mdms.com '66 IIa 88 SW moore graphic services From rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL ) Fri May 5 11:04:18 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 11:04:18 MDT From: rhcaldw@nma.mnet.uswest.com ( ROY CALDWELL ) Subject: OD-PTO and Winches Just picked up a used Fairey OD and a Koenig PTO along with and option on a Koenig PTO Winch Mod LR-592. I am looking at mounting all this jazz. The winch came off a 60 Series II 109 and had been driven of the flywheel. This arrangement kills using the handcrank. The other option is to use the Koenig PTO and run it to the back. Any thoughts or is the winch not worth messing with? The winch is in pretty good condition. I think Ben in Ca. has a Koenig like this. Need some ideas and thoughts. Roy - Rovers in the Rockies From Spenny@aol.com Fri May 5 13:30:38 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 13:30:38 -0400 From: Spenny@aol.com Subject: BRLRC Parkersburg Meet David writes... both the organizer and one of the attendees are beer distributors (Guiness for all). Land Rovers and Guiness? At once? 16 hours away! This is the sort of thing that makes people put V-8 in a series rover Drooling, :-) spenny From The Stone Group Fri May 5 14:41:51 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 14:41:51 -0400 From: The Stone Group Subject: suscribe land-rover-owner subscribe From Charlie Wright Fri May 5 20:05:12 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 20:05:12 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner Russell offers advice: >> 85W-140, or something else like that. What should I use? Which >> brands are best? What about synthetics? >I think the theory is the thinnest oil that will not leak out >over night. In the winter a heaver weight is better, and lighter >in the summer. or conversely: heavier in summer (when ambient temperature will thin the oil) and lighter in winter when the chill will make it too thick to pump. This is not so critical with gears as they are bathed in the stuff, so thinner is not always better. What 85-W140 says is multi-grade. It should be more stable across a temperature range. Most boxes use EP90. Plain old heavy gear oil. Check your manuals for details. >Synthetics work well in wet locations. I think the synth runs out faster >than the water can run in. I missed something here. Synthetics are very good, and often lower the operating temp (lower the friction) significantly. They are prone to run out of Land-Rovers, and they are sometimes accused of encouraging older seals to leak. I cannot refute nor confirm this. My BMW club loves RedLine gear oil (synth), but I haven't ever switched. Rover owners claim MUCH lower temps with overdrives using synthetics, which is worth trying. I find a big fat 5 litre jug of discount EP90 is fine, and I use enough to get frequent buyer discounts... >> noticed there were inner tubes in all my tires. He said off road it >> is better not to have tubes. The PO said he put tubes in because he >> thought it was better for off road. What is you experience? >Air, lots of it is the important item to keep in your tires. Air, yes, but the amount varies with driving conditions and load. Lots of it (up to the mfgs. recommendation) is fine for towing and heavy loads. Slightly less is good for ordinary use. MUCH less is good for sand/mud. If you have old rims with rusty/bent edges, tubes are the cheapest way to solve air leaks. They also help if you run 8-10psi in sand or mud and suffer leaks at that level. They are dangerous at very high speeds (don't put tubes in your F40), but this will not worry a lot of us. Good luck, Charlie From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Fri May 5 14:49:04 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 14:49:04 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owner :If you have old rims with rusty/bent edges, tubes are the cheapest way to :solve air leaks. They also help if you run 8-10psi in sand or mud and :suffer leaks at that level. They are dangerous at very high speeds :(don't put tubes in your F40), but this will not worry a lot of us. Ummm, how fast would be problem? What exactlyu is the danger? I've been known to achieve "passing speeds" of, say, 90mph in my 1974 ser III. From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Fri May 05 17:39:44 1995 Date: Fri, 05 May 95 17:39:44 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: trany for 110 / 90 2.25ltr diesel Can any one tell me what automatic tranny will match up to the current UK available 2.5 ltr diesel engines? Rgds Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Fri May 5 16:25:22 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 95 16:25:22 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: re : Off roading in NH All, We set the date for our off-roading trip, next Saturday 13th. The digest has been unavailable recently so I'm sorry for the late posting. Hope those that wanted to come along can still make it. e-mail me if you are interested. Mark From Jim Russell Fri May 5 17:24:06 1995 Date: Fri, 5 May 1995 17:24:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Russell Subject: Electronic Ignitions... In response to the question about electronic (optically triggered) ignitions, about four or so months ago I installed the little Crane-Allison unit (along with the Lucas "sport" coil) in my '66 88 SW and have been quite pleased with it to date. It made the timing really rock solid -- no jumping around at all. Installation was a snap but I didn't like having to cut off the pivot post for the points so I cut it to a level where I believe I could still reinstall the points and condensor in an emergency (below the optical shutter but leaving it long enough that the points should work). Jim Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) From rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Fri May 05 18:19:37 1995 Date: Fri, 05 May 95 18:19:37 -0500 From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Subject: making your own personalised toys As some of you know apart from model making passion I'm big into Land Rovers. That perversion is further corrupted by my love for Land Rover toys and models. While the diecast toys that are available at the toy stores are nice I find that sometime I want to do something alittle bit different. To that end I quite often repaint the toys in my own choice of colour scheme. This is not a major operation like you would imagine. The cheapest and easiest to play around with are the Majorette 1/60 scale diecast toys. They do a nice little 90 with a Camel style roof rack and opening rear door with a spare on it that has the Land Rover logo on it. The cost of this little jem is about 2.99 CDN plus taxes and is quite readilly available. As these toys have windows they obviously shouldnt be painted. At the same time the original clour needs to come off the casting otherwise the detail will be obliterated. The easiest way would be to deal with the body work on its own, which what I set out to do a couple of years ago. I started at the rivet that is at the front of the base and drilled it out using a3/16 bit (aprox). I was carefull not to do more than drill off the head of the rivet , cos we will need the std underneath when we re assemble the vehicle. The body casting can be cleaned with a number of yukky paint removers but I prefer Easy Off oven cleaner, original lemon scent. I do it in the set in sink in the basement (uk types insert privy here) After about 1hour of leaving the cleaner on the toy set in a samll bowl I rinse it using a toothbrush and warm water. If yours does not come clean make sure that you dry it completely before using another coat. Once clean and dry (isnt this the first step in every instruction?) then select your paint of choice and mist on the paint using a clothes peg on the stud to handle it by. Set it aside to dry, best leave it a day to harden up good to be honest. Putting it back together is reverse of taking it apart.( right! I then use a drop of superglue to hold the base to the remains of the stud. WARNING dont let a small child play with this now as it could come apart and choke th kid if they ingetsed it etc etc. For my purposes, since I'm not a small child ( contrary to local opinion ) this suits me fine. Voila I now have my own custom painted toy, you can go one step fuerther by adding a decal aswell if you wanted but thats another model making secret in its self. I usually only do that on light colours as this is what they show up on best. By using decals commemorative specials can be done quite easily, birthdays, club events etc. If you have any questions e mail me direct pls. ps. commissiFrom Lloyd Allison Sat May 6 17:13:40 1995 Date: Sat, 6 May 1995 17:13:40 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: small LR the latest LROC(Vic) newsletter carries details of a proposed small LR (may be pie in sky): monocoque steel (ughh) body (maybe ali doors and bonnet), probably disco axles, maybe RR2-style rear suspension, possible 2litre car type engine, plus some sort of turbo diesel option btw there is an ibex pic' in http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Foers/ Lloyd Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA tel: 61 3 905 5205 fax: 61 3 905 5146 email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Sat May 6 18:27:14 1995 Date: Sat, 6 May 1995 18:27:14 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Tirfor handle length. Ok Before the server Barfed someone asked about the handle length for a Tirfor hand-winch. I dont ahve the original message so the whole list gets bombed... The extended length for a T516 (the medium size one.. 1600/2500kg) is 1.15m or..about 45 inches -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat May 06 09:28:11 1995 Date: Sat, 06 May 1995 09:28:11 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owne Jory sez... > Ummm, how fast would be problem? What exactlyu is the danger? I've been > known to achieve "passing speeds" of, say, 90mph in my 1974 ser III. OK... exactly how long *was* the chain attached to the 18 wheeler that was pulling you. 90 MPH?? Good drugs in California, eh? Are you sure you don't have a speedo marked in KPH? Given the known accuracy of British speedometers, especially old British speedometers, I think, and I'm sure lots of our brethren would aggree, that 90 MPH is a tad much. I've been in a mostly loaded 109 doing 70 (on the speedo). We *we're* passing people. It felt like 90 and sounded like the connecting rods were merely inches from the pavement. 90 MPH!! Kids these days.... Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Sat May 6 10:37:33 1995 Date: Sat, 6 May 1995 10:37:33 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: Re: More questions from a Newer Owne :Given the known accuracy of British speedometers, especially old British :speedometers, I think, and I'm sure lots of our brethren would aggree, that :90 MPH is a tad much... 1. I've crudely verified the accuracy of my speedometer at normal highway speeds (55-65) with a cohort in chase vehicle. 2. I actually have largish tires (32"?) which, (unless I am totally confused... never to be ruled out) should counter any standard British speedo tendencies. In terms of the *feel* of going really fast, I find that my rover is actually smoother at higher speeds... jory From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 06 95 May EDT 1915 Date: 06 May 95 15:51:56 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Speedo and lights Charlie--- the speedo has a number at the end of the model number, 1400 on a 109 which means the number of revolutions per mile that the speedo cable rotates. If you change from a 4.7 diff ratio to 3.54 you need a number 1400 x 3.54/4.7 = 1054 From memory some of the old Morris Oxford type cars or the larger model had speedos in this range. I suggest you look round a breakers. The Triumph 2000 or the Dolomites had a 1000 rev/ mile speedo which would certainly be more accurate than the standard one J Dolan the Lucas parts list shows your flasher lamp to be a model 613, available with clear or amber lenses, your part number is a clear lense, the book does not list the vehicles which use it, other than looking through all the models listed to see if the 613 is listed under a particular model car. Looking at the picture of the unit I would think that it is a model specific unit. I have in the UK a 3 litre enamel badge for the radiator grille, it has not been on a car, I also have some P6 engine size badges, ie 2000, 2200TC and 3500 and some wheel trims, can 't call them new since they are 20 or 30 years old but the parts have not been fitted to a car, offers accepted. This week I have made an offer on a house which has a 30 ft x 40 ft garage, now all I need are a few LR's to fill it up.( not forgetting the money to buy them ) Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Sat May 6 13:46 1995 Date: Sat, 6 May 95 13:46 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: USGS >> I have volunteered to compare the ground features with what is on my >> local USGS topo map. I spent most of the day after work yesterday [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >How do you volunteer for this? Can anyone/anywhere (in the US)? Info >please. The last time I ordered a bunch of topo maps, they sent a flyer: Volunteers wanted for the US Geological Survey Earth Science Corps Be responsible for providing map updates for your local area Help promote the National Mapping Program in your community Have a chance to become involved in various scientific studies Combine you recreational interests with volunteer service Work with USGS maps in the field etc. There are two programs. One is a public outreach program under which volunteers help enhance public awareness of the National Mapping Program and products. The other is a map annotation project where volunteers provide info about potential map updates in their assigned area by annotating USGS maps. I signed up because, in my hikes and mountain bike rides (and now Land Rover trips, too), I have found numerous differences between the topo map and what is on the ground, especially with regard to where forest roads go. I was already annotating my local maps when this came along, so now my annotations can potentially benefit others. To obtain application forms, or for more info, write to: Earth Science Corps MS 513 U.S. Geological Survey Reston, VA 22092 James From jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Sat May 6 13:54 1995 Date: Sat, 6 May 95 13:54 MST From: jhoward@argus.lowell.edu (James D. Howard II) Subject: insurance >Ooh! I hope they don't base your insurance on Range Rovers. That might >be like having your Ford pick up insurance based on Explorers. More >expensive vehicle = more expensive insurance. I'd check this, my >insurance (Allstate) had a separate catagory for Land Rovers. It took about 4 phone calls to get a quote. The first quote they gave me was $450 for six months. Since my MGB of the same vintage (1972) is only $220, I told them, and they agreed, that that was too high. I finally got one for $190. For that price they can call it a Range Rover if theFrom lwte@ngi.no (Lloyd Tunbridge) Sun May 7 18:31:48 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 18:31:48 +0200 From: lwte@ngi.no (Lloyd Tunbridge) Subject: Re. Troubleshooting Gear Grinding :carden@eskimo.com (Chris Carden) writes: :My '66 IIa frequently grinds going into 1st,2nd or reverse. I'd appreciate :any experienced advice on the next step to persue. Here's the case: I remember reading somewhere, probably LRO mag., that the length of the push rod in the clutch hydraulic slave cylender is critical, and apparently wears to become too short. Might be worth a check --- Lloyd Tunbridge 1970 Series IIA 109" Safari currently standing without clutch and brakes! From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 07 95 May EDT 1916 Date: 07 May 95 16:59:57 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Digest exploding Who the f... is this vbormc.vbo.dec.com that keeps on bouncing the entire digest back!? Could've expected something like this to happen when Bill's on home leave... Murphys' law at work. First no digest, now bombshells. Stefan From ChipEast@aol.com Sun May 7 18:38:28 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 18:38:28 -0400 From: ChipEast@aol.com Subject: unsubscribe lro-digest ChipEast@aol.com unsubscribe lro-digest ChipEast@aol.com If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, you can send mail to "Majordomo@Team.Net" with the following command in the body of your email message: unsubscribe lro-digest ChipEast@aol.com FOR THE LAST TIME, PLEASE REMOVE MY NAME FROM THIS MAIL LIST. IT IS CAUSING GREAT DISHARMONY DUE THE HIGH QUANTITY OF MAIL. I HAVE TRIED EVERY WAY POSSIBLE TO REMOVE MYSELF FROM THE LIST AND I STILL GET THE DIGEST. THANK YOU. From Spenny@aol.com Sun May 7 22:07:40 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:07:40 -0400 From: Spenny@aol.com Subject: Downeast Rally Info: Maine USA -July Downeast VII 7th Annual Mid-Coast Land Rover Rally July 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th 1995 ************** Saturday July 1st ************** Offroad day among lakes, woods and blueberry barrens of Camden Hills. Fun and challenging off road trials course with water crossings, mud holes, rocks & boulders, climbs & descents, trenches, pole bridges, see-saw, articulation alley and other obstacles to embarrass show-offs. Plus miles of trails and team endeavors for diehards. Range Rover and Discovery restricted if fitted with spoiler. Driving instruction available. BBQ and pot luck. (so bring something) Playground for kids, swimming, canoeing, hiking. Vehicle service workshop on site. Rover's North will be in attendance Alcohol free zone and Tread Lightly in effect except on course. (participants are under no obligation to take part in any activity and don't be afraid to ask for driving instruction.) ******************************************************************** To join the fun, you must register, and send $5 (per person) for BBQ. (children without voracious appetites eat free) Only then will you be sent map & directions. ******************************************************************** Evening dinner at the Whale's Tooth Pub Lincolnville Beach from 6:30 pm Location: 6 miles north of Camden on Rte. 1 ************** Sunday, July 2nd ************** Owl's Head Transportation Museum, Owl's Head Maine Arrive before 10:00 am if you can Free admission to all rovers, (2 adults, 2 children per vehicle) 100+ rovers, US. & Canadian clubs, specialist parts, service, restoration, vehicle sales companies and dealers, latest new vehicles, including the new Range Rover, Rover's North offroad winching demonstration, 3 minute balancing see-saw competition. (practice all day on Saturday if you like at the off-road day) Full facilities on site: airshow will feature B-17, P-51, Yak-11, AV-8B Harrier Jump Jets, plus lots more. Around 4-4:30 pm Join the "lets get the hell outta here convoy!" And see you later for dinner at the Whale's Tooth Pub (unless some other bright spark has a better idea. ************** Monday July 3rd ************** Downeast coastal tour, picturesque historic villages, antique stores, damn good lunch, wildlife refuge park, then back to base camp, cook dinner, followed by rocking chairs, tall tales, even better lies, downright untruths with large helpings of slander on Murphy's back porch at Ducktrap intoxicating beverages will be tolerated ************** Monday July 3rd ************** Tuesday: much the same as Monday 'cept inland, or back to the offroad course for some clutch burnin' fender bender fun in the other person's rover. *** info **** info **** info **** info **** info **** info *** Weekend camp - The Old Massachusetts Homestead (south) Northport, Me 207-789-5135, ask for Dwight Location: 8 miles north of Camden, 2 miles north of The Whale's Tooth For alternative accommodations contact organizer Breakdown/rescue assistance: East Coast Rover Company, Camden, Maine - 207-236-0646 Howard's Land Rover Garage, Warren, Maine - 207-273-2370 or have AAA deliver you to one of the above -------------------------------------------------------------------- For information and location of the off road trial site, send $5 for BBQ along with SASE us only to: Myles Murphy, RR2, Box 23, Ducktrap, Lincolnville Beach, Maine, 04849, USA or (207) 789-5303. or email spenny@aol.com ----------------------------------------------------- please print this out and show it to someone who isn't on the net. thanks. From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Sun May 7 22:05:11 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:05:11 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Tony's Ignition Tony Bonanno (15034.3062@Compuserve.com) asked about electronic ignitions. I installed the Luminition unit six (eight?) years ago and haven't touched the ignition system ('cept for replacing the high tension leads once) since. Need more be said? It takes longer to read the documentation than it does to install it. Two tips: ignore the reference to the "ballast resistor" - there isn't on on series Rovers. There is a little wedge on the inside diameter of the chopper blade thingie that has to be removed; otherwise the rotor sits up too high and rubs the cap. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Sun May 7 22:05:16 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:05:16 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Centre Diffs 101 --=====================_799909542==_ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The following is a reprint from the Spring, 1995 issue of "The Gearbox", the quarterly newsletter of the Rover Owners' Association of Virginia. Written by Jim Allen of "Stateside Beat" column fame in LRO, it is the best description of that most mysterious mechanical linkage (at least to me) the center differential. The article is a response to a previously-published article by Stefan Jacob. In fact, Stefan asked that I post this; it should probably be included in the FAQ. It is, however, about 20k of text. Cheers, all. --=====================_799909542==_ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Thought I'd give you some input by responding to a tech tip from Stefan Jacob in the last issue [of "the Gearbox"] and add a bit to Bill Maloney's comments on getting passed the spectre fo emissions testings. I'm still enjoying the newsletter greatly, especially the tech stuff. I have to respectfully disagree with some of Stefan's comments on Range Rover center differentials. Before I get into the meat 'n taters, let me qualify myself by saying that my information comes from six years as a factory-trained (read: Solihull) Land Rover line technician, two years as a Land Rover Driving Instructor and many other years just mucking about with Land/Range Rovers in general. CENTRE DIFFERENTIALS 101 First, a explanation of how a centre differential works. Though called "full-time" four wheel drive, the Range Rover system really isn't. Centre diff unlocked, it's still really a two wheel drive; it just has the option to drive a front wheel. As with all open differentials (remember that the Range Rover has three, with only the centre lockable), power takes the path of least resistance. With a conventional 4X2, if you put one rear wheel on dry pavement and the other on sheet ice, the power will go to the wheel on ice. The centre diff works the same way. Under the right circumstances, if you put both front and one rear wheel on pavement and the other rear on ice, the one tire on ice is going to spin and the Rover will just sit there. We're talking the manually locked center diff here (LT-95, LT-230), not the Borg-Warner unit with the VCU (viscous coupling unit) that automatically locks the center diff when slippage is sensed. OK, so with the center diff unlocked, the system can transfer power to the wheel with the least amount of traction. If you lock the center diff, the power is split 50/50 between the front and rear, just like the conventional transfer box on your alder Land-Rovers. The centre diff is then coupled and spins as one unit. USING THE CENTRE DIFF The most glaring problems with Stefan's comments lie in the second paragraph. My experience with Range Rover transfer boxes, and also Land Rover doctrine, dictate certain technique for their systems. Stefan was quite correct in saying that it's unnecessary and undesirable to lock the centre diff on the road for the same reasons your wouldn't put your Series Land-Rover into four-wheel. Tire and drivetrain wear are accelerated on highly tractive surfaces and even a wet road qualifies as highly tractive. An icy or snowy road where you are spinning just one tire in an attempt to move is an exception, though driving icy roads with the centre diff locked can be treacherous; the same advice would apply to standard 4X4's in four wheel drive. Stefan is also absolutely correct to warn against applying diff lock whilst you've got lots of wellie applied. You either want to be in diff lock before you get to the wildly spinning tire stuff (not the best way to drive, anyway) or you want to: 1) back off the throttle, 2) engage the diff lock lever, 3) wait 'til the light come on (the sure indicator that it's actually engaged, since the light reads off a sensor in the t-box) and 4) get back on the fuel feed. You don't have to push in the clutch to engage diff lock (you couldn't anyway with the auto tranny) but being gentle doesn't hurt if you have the option. Here is where Stefan and I part ways: If you are in terrain that's more than the family sedan can handle - engage the diff lock! Why? Once you start getting into low traction situations, you start that centre diff to working hard. It's actually very small and not as robust as the diffs in your axles. Gears a-spinnin', its starts to get hot, especially if "Joe's Genuine Recycled Gear Oil" that you put in can't keep up with the lubrication needs. Shimmed with brass behind the diff gears, once they loose lubrication, from heat generally, they melt down and/or get spit out in chunks. The gears then walk around, get cockeyed and break. Sometimes the broken chunks will lock the unit into one piece and you will find the vehicle in truly permanent four-wheel drive. If it doesn't lock up, you stop. With the centre diff locked, power is transferred through the much stronger centre diff housing instead of the gears. In diff lock, the unit is stronger than unlocked and no more vulnerable to breakage than any other 4X4, V-8 engine, first gear, wide open throttle and blocked wheels notwithstanding. T-CASE DETAILS Stefan and I break ranks on another issue. I'm sorry to say that Range Rover LT-230 gearboxes do commonly leak - it's the number one cause of failure. The rear output seal is the usual culprit, followed by the pan gasket. The pan is easily remedied with a gasket backed up with sealant on the pan and the bolts. The oil seal is less easily corrected, though I understand that there is a new seal available of better quality than the early ones. The newer Discos and Defenders don't seep much compared to '87-'88 Range Rovers; Borg-Warner took over in '89 an it really doesn't leak. Stefan is correct on the importance of not having the handbrake adjusted tight in order to keep the heat down and not melt the seal. Most of the older Range Rovers I worked on were '87-88 automatics, and most owners didn't use the handbrake anyway. I saw few seal problems related to heat. Anyway, the oil level gets low due to the rear seal leak and lack of attention. What goes first? Your got it - the centre diff. It spins its shims out and there you go - buying a $1,100 centre diff assembly. The moral? Update your seals to the latest spec, check oil levels regularly and don;t overdo the handbrake adjustment. Stefan was also spot-on about the vent hoses and the importance of keeping them clear. LT-230s are somewhat noisy by nature, and it's actually rare to find a totally silent one. This is the #1 Discovery complaint right now. Most times, the "LT-230 whine" will last 200,000 miles. If the noise is there from the beginning and never changes over a long period, you can probably ignore it. If it arrives suddenly or changes pitch, you ought to investigate further. Two LT-230s exist: the LT-230R and the -230T. The "R" unit has roller bearings on the intermediate shaft gear and was used in early RR, 90s and 110s with high range ratios from 1.003-1 (the RR auto with Torqueflite), 1.412-1 (early 90 four cylinders and the 110 V-8) and 1.667-1 (early 110 four bangers). The "T" unit has tapered roller bearings on the intermediate gears and nearly the same ratios in the same applications, except that the ZF automatic Range Rovers use a 1.22-1 high range gear, as do Discovery 5-speeds and auto and V-8 Defender 90s. The T-unit is the better box. R-unit boxes have a tendency to have thrust washer trouble on the intermediate gear, as did the LT-95 box. Bearing whine on the T-unit can often be traced to improper bearing preloads on either/both the inter gear bearings and the centre diff housing. If you change your diff oil and find lots of brass, you've got centre diff problems. Often, you'll have trouble getting it out of diff lock along with the brass chunks. The centre diff on an LT-230, incidentally, can be removed in-situ without removing the t-box. Don't wait too long to reshim the centre diff or you may have to buy the whole unit. The LT-95 (four speed box) has the trans and t-box in one unit. That means if you really grenade the t-box, the entire housing must be replaced. The LT-95 was a very good unit overall. Intermediate gear bearings and shims were the most common failure. Next would be the vacuum servo that locked the centre diff. The latest (early 1980's) models are the best. The Borg-Warner t-box is nearly trouble free. A rare failed VCU and an occasional leak is the usual trouble, though most of them soldier on with no problems. They are not quite as strong as the LT-230s, though. In an off-road abuse "duel to the death," the LT-230 would come out on top. From a customer standpoint, however, the BW unit is great. User friendly and lacking of day-to-day mechanical vices (like leakage), look for this unit to end up in the Discovery very soon. SMOGGING LAND-ROVERS Without knowing exactly how the plan in Virginia and other places will work, I'll go back to my days as a certified tester in the California BAR-90 system. Working at a Land Rover dealership, I saw more than my share of Land-Rovers new and old come in for tests. I cut what slack the system allowed (which wasn't much since it was all computerized), especially on the old ones. Here's what I learned: 1) Most programs want factory spec engines. In theory, that means a Zenith or a Solex in their proper places, factory manifolds and PCV valves. With old Land-Rovers, most smog techs won't know the difference between a Zenith or a Weber 1 barrel, a diaphragm PCV from a spring-and-piston. They will draw the line, usually, with a header or a 2 bbl. Many of the factory emission parts, like the EGR setup on Series IIIs are long out of production. If the tech turns up some obscure bit of paper showing that a '73 88 should have an EGR valve, it's easy to prove that these parts are unavailable. In California, it meant a trip to a referee station with a list of out-of-production parts from a Land Rover dealer as proof to get an exemption. [See the list at the end.] 2) If I remember correctly, the last CO/HC limits for an older Land- Rover before I left were 2% carbon monoxide and 150 ppm hydrocarbons. You could make them run on those settings with difficulty. The factory emission tag on a '69, for example, asks for a 6% CO adjustment. The HC reading at 6% was about 300 PPM, and adjusting the CO to 2% sometimes made the HC rise. The test called for the timing to be set to factory spec and because the computer couldn't tell where it was set, I often retarded it to get the HC to come down. If your timing has to be checked by the tech as a part of the test, make sure it's set to the lowest number you can document in the literature for your Landy. Set it at the "pee-water" P-Mex fuel setting of 3 or 6 degrees ATDC. As Kelly Minnick said, a good tuneup, an oil change and gasohol or oxygenated fuel in the tank will also make the test go smoother. The idle number should also be set on the highest number in the specs. That also helps keep the HC down. 3) California had a limit on repairs if your car couldn't pass the test. I believe it was $300. If your vehicle had all the proper equipment and still couldn't be made to pass (after letting the tech fool around to the tune of $300), you went to the referee station and got a certificate. This did not apply to modified engines or missing emission components. Tired engines did qualify for the exemptions. 4) Don't go in for a test if your exhaust system has leaks. The test equipment in California could sense exhaust leaks and abort the test. 5) Finding a sympathetic tech is helpful. Don't offer bribes, but remember that he can cut you a lot of slack if so inclined. If the shop is one you normally use (assuming the test station is not state-run), your odds are better. Good luck! Land Rover/Unipart Smog Equipment No Longer Available 574244 Zenith 36IVE carb, fitted to engine #30600001 on. 587128 Zenith 36IVE carb, fitted to engine #30700001 Suffix "A" on. 587521 Zenith 36IVE carb, fitted to engine #30600001 Suffix "B" on. 542410 Emission valve (PCV breather). 596384 Diaphragm unit, Series III. 596385 Trigger Valve, Series III. 574933 Distributor, IIa, Engine #30600001 on. 574245 Distributor, IIa, Engine #30700001 on. 587497 Distributor, IIa, Engine #30700001 Suffix "B" on. 578065 Breather Canister, IIa Frame #24439373G on & all Series III. 041866 EGR Valve assembly. Jim Allen is a freelance write and photographer living in Grand Junction, Colorado. His "Stateside Beat" column appears regularly in Land Rover Owner Magazine, while his article on ROAV's Mid-Atlantic Rally was featured in the February, 1995 edition and on the back page of the most recent Rovers North newsletter. --=====================_799909542==_ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* --=====================_799909542==_-- From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Sun May 7 22:05:38 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:05:38 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Stutterin' Speedos Just this weekend, the speedometer started acting up. The odometer works just fine, but the speedo gets up to about 30 MPH and then drops back to 20 and flits about. Someone on the list professed intimate knowledge of Jaeger/Smiths speedos a while back, so any information on repair (or advive just to deep-six it) would be helpful. I'd rahter try to repair it...it served for 200,000 miles. The usual culprit, the cable, is relatively new. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Sun May 7 23:09:33 1995 Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 23:09:33 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Jory's warp drive Jory@MIT.EDU wrote: >I've been known to achieve "passing speed" of, say 90MPH in my 1974 Ser III Say what, Jory? What you feedin' that beast? Nitrous and methyl? Jeez, my top speed was 77 MPH, and that was coming down off the Continental Divide in Colorado, engine off, gearbox in neutral and with a tail-wind! :-} Anyway, I've never heard of any speed limitations on tubed tires...only problems if you put non-radial tubes in radial tires - the higher heat generated by the the sidewall flexing of the radials will destroy regular, run-of-the-mill tubes. (I've had it happen at speed.) Despite their hassle in repair, tubes have their advantges: you can run with lower air (9 PSI) and not need to worry about slipping a bead. If you do get a flat with a tubeless tire and bead separates, there just is no way to reinflate it in the field without that quick pop of air from a big compressor. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898From Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 08 95 May EDT 1908 Date: 08 May 95 08:50:15 EDT From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Sacrilige, but.... Folks: Has anyone ever tried to fit a cruise control system from a Range Rover onto a D90? Is it possible? With the engines the same, I would think installing a system from a wrecked RR would not be that difficult? Where are the driver controls for Cruise on a RR? I know, I know, it's sacrilige, but it's sometimes a long drive *to* the mud and this is more of a theoretical exercise anyway. I have too many projects to bother with this one yet... but someday a supercharged and cruise-controlled D90 would be fun ;-) Cheers, R. P. Reid 94 D90 (yet unnamed) '62 IIa 88 Mil (The Sgt Major) '56 Series I Fire Tender From "Tom Rowe" Mon May 8 09:17:45 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 09:17:45 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Bush hog, speedo stutters, tubless tires James Howard wrote with questions on tires & bush hogs. Tube type vs tubless tires. I posted some time ago a note regarding that issue. A friend of mine, from when I lived in VT, had a problem with tubless tires during Mud Season ( the time of year when they close roads, graders get stuck and roads are generally impassable, except of course by LR). Mud would work its way into the bead, break it and so a flat. On the other hand many people run tubless. Take your pick. I run tube type, but I'm old fashioned plus I have two part wheels to make field repaires easier. One caution on tube type though, if you lower the pressure too much you can get slippage of the tube inside the wheel and tear off the stem. Bush hog vs OD; this is the perfect opportunity to get a new accessory for the LR. Tell your dad if he wants you to run a bush hog he needs to get you a transfer case bottom PTO unit. This bolts to the bottom of the transfer case and runs a PTO to the front or rear. Then you can have your OD too. Sandy Grice asked about stuttering speedo; Slip in the speedo drive wheel inside the transfer case will cause your symptoms. A loose rear transfer output shaft nut could cause it, it needs to be set to a very high torque (I forget what the figure is exactly, 175ftlbs maybe?) the manual says. Or you may have too many shims in the housing that the drive wheel is in. Cheers, Tom Rowe University of Wisconsin Madison, WI Four wheel drive allows you to get trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu stuck in places even more inaccessible. From rsj@ny.ox.com (Rick Jaffe) Mon May 8 10:26 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 95 10:26 EDT From: rsj@ny.ox.com (Rick Jaffe) Subject: Discovery floor mats When I picked up my new Disco last week the dealer gave me pinstriping, a box full of sweet food, coffee cups, et. al., and the Jaguar life style magazine :-?-). But those of us who want to haul three kids, a dog and some other stuff around town, not to test that the rhino bars actually work, would have appreciated floor mats instead. Or maybe a discount hah hah. Can someone please recommend alternatives to the dealer's no doubt usuriously priced mats? Thanks. Rick Jaffe USMail: OTA Limited Partnership, 1 Manhattanville Rd., Purchase, NY 10577 Phone: +1 914 694-5800 x230 FAX: +1 914 694-5831 Internet: rsj@ox.com From terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Sun May 08 16:23:47 1994 Date: Sun, 08 May 1994 16:23:47 +0200 From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Subject: Re: Tyres and innertubes >I've had a couple of flats on tubeless tyres from hitting kurbs and other >sharp objects hard enough to bend the rims, this shouldn't be a problem for >tubed tyres and so I always use them. The disadvantage was, as I >understood, that tubed tyres are more uncomfortable to drive on the road! Funny, I've had a couple of flats on tubeless tyres WITH tubes due to the tube being worn by the inside of the tubeless tyre. BFG TracEdge to be exact. I've driven about 10k on a new pair, with new tubes, and both have punctured. On the other hand, a collegue of mine has driven 20k with his, and had only one puncture, due to using old tubes at high speeds. Terje Krogdahl terje@tvnorge.no http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/index.e.html 1972 SIII 88" From Russell Burns Mon May 8 7:46:00 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 95 7:46:00 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: Sacrilige, but.... I have given it a little thought. Talking with Rovers north, the problem with the R- Rover cruise control is the speed senser off the trans. I think the disco Cruise control would be a better fit.> The controls for a R-Rover are on the steering wheel. I was thinking of converting them to a dash mounted unit. I will keep you updated it I get any further I also have too many other projects. Russ > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > Folks: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)] > '62 IIa 88 Mil (The Sgt Major) > '56 Series I Fire Tender From Russell Burns Mon May 8 7:57:27 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 95 7:57:27 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats I picked up a 4' by 6' one inch thick rubber mat from the local farm store. Cutting is was a bitch. but it works great in the back of the D-90 by the weigh, it is about 100 lbs. Russ > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)] > Thanks. Rick Jaffe > USMail: OTA Limited Partnership, 1 Manhattanville Rd., Purchase, NY 10577 > Phone: +1 914 694-5800 x230 FAX: +1 914 694-5831 From harincar@internet.mdms.com Mon May 8 10:56:21 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 10:56:21 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Re: Nigel's Disease Sandy Grice wrote: > Seems my Rover has once again been stricken with "Nigel's Disease." To the > uninitiated, this malady is highly contagious. All that is required is that [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > The pipes/muffler are great - it's the cast steel flanges that have fallen > off. Hopefully, I can get it rewelded tomorrow. Hmmm, sorry 'bout that. I think I was the one who mentioned that about SS pipes when I was redoing my exhaust. I saw SS pipes in the Atlantic British catalog, and not in RN, so I asked RN and they told me the pipes were exactly the way you describe. So I opted for the "genuine" part from RN, and as a compromise used SS nuts and bolts to put it together. That way, I at least won't have to cut the pipes off again when its rusts out. Rust is my Enemy! Tim --- tim harincar harincar@internet.mdms.com '66 IIa 88 SW From Brian Neill Tiedemann Tue May 9 02:28:18 1995 Date: Tue, 9 May 1995 02:28:18 +1000 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: Salisbury for RR g'day again... though no-one responded after my last (first) submission (sob), I will try again: Does anybody in oz (pref victoria) know of a salisbury rear end from a 110, county or defender which is able to be bought or bribed or stolen? I want a STRONG diff to avoid that sinking feeling when i try my new motor in anger. (Must be 3.54 and pref coil sprung...i believe that some V8 SIII's were 3.54 and i suppose i could adapt one for RR coils). I happily travel to obscure dark places or dig such a diff out of a bog... by the way, is it possible to UNSUBSCRIBE without actually being him ie. could some anonymous person do it ( now )!! (beginning to remind me of Schindler's list....Too Fn Long to start with and twice as long with each new day.) :} (to be different) also, i tried to subscribe to au-lro.. no joy? does it really exist? Leaks but I luv it... 77 RR Brian Tiedemann (S914440@minyos.xx.rmit.edu.au) ______ / / | \___ \_ ^ __ ^ _: >>> ............. {*} {*} ............./ ................/ From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Mon May 8 09:33:57 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 95 09:33:57 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats I got a perfectly good set of rubber mats from Grand/Auto for $16 for my RR. Admitedly they're of the "one size fits all" variety but they do the job. Cheers John Brabyn Mill Valley, Ca 89RR From "Lapa, Hank" Mon May 08 12:19:27 1995 Date: Mon, 08 May 95 12:19:27 EST From: "Lapa, Hank" Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats Rick, Your argument coincides much with my situation -- Disco for kid-haulin' & general transport is on order and will hopefully be here by September. Am getting basic car and will buy rubber (not carpet) mat sets from one of my usual suppliers; UPS shipping will be much cheaper than sales tax at the dealer. There is an industrial-type rubber mat material which is covered with bottle cap-sized pips for traction, very similar to the effect on the ones offered by L-R for Disco. You would have to cut and fit. (Perhaps a dealer will let you trace originals !!!) The same material also comes as 1-foot-square floor tiles. Check flooring vendors in the yellow pages. I haven't worked with the stuff, but it's an idea. The center and rear mats of my 109 wagon are ribbed rubber mat that came in a roll I accidentally inherited 10 years ago in Florida. It matched the originals (?) that were in the car when I bought it from its 2nd owner. This mat is probable cheaper still and would also do for the Disco. I guess it would be found at an industrial supplier of some sort. Last suggestion, is those thicker, padded mats that are designed to relieve stress for those who must stand for long periods (at a counter/workbench, for example) on concrete floors. I've seen them advertised in Leichtung Workshop catalogs, but are also likely to be found at large DIY warehouse stores or industrial/shop supply houses. Hope this helps. Hank P.S., > Subject: Discovery floor mats > Author: rsj@ny.ox.com (Rick Jaffe) at Zeus > From: rsj@ny.ox.com (Rick Jaffe) > Subject: Discovery floor mats [ truncated by lro-digester (was 40 lines)] > USMail: OTA Limited Partnership, 1 Manhattanville Rd., Purchase, NY 10577 > Phone: +1 914 694-5800 x230 FAX: +1 914 694-5831 From "Russell G. Dushin" Mon May 8 12:45:51 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 95 12:45:51 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats > Can someone please recommend alternatives to the dealer's no doubt > usuriously priced mats? Yeah. Walmart. rd/nige From Alan Richer 8 95 May EDT 1912 Date: 8 May 95 12:17:24 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Tutorial: On the repair of wiper motors Having just had the unmitigated pleasure of reworking the wiper motors on my 109 pickup, I've decided to pull the lessons learned in this process together into a tutorial for those fortunate souls who haven't had this pleasure... This is based solely on my experience disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the two wiper motors on my car, and doesn't construe any official policy of Land-Rover, the British government, Margaret Thatcher or anyone else but me..... On to the show, then.... 1: Dismounting the motor from the truck: The motors on my car were held in place by a double-nut on a threaded shaft. Two of these were used to mount each motor, and both were badly corroded on my example. The threaded shafts ended up unscrewing from the motors, and are being replaced with the proper thread of stainless-steel bolt. With the wiper blade removed by loosening the mounting bolt and pulling it off the shaft, the motor was free to be withdrawn into the cab, The two wires on the motor were then disconnected, noting the respective terminals they attached to. NOTE: For those of us thinking of converting positive-ground cars to negative, ground, these motors work quite well with either polarity grounded. They turn the same way with either polarity to the shell of the motor. 2: Disassembing the motor for cleaning: Once on the bench, I gave each motor a run-up with a 12-volt power supply. Both dragged badly, indicating that the gear grease had congealed. I removed the rear cover of the motor by removing the brass slotted nut at the center of the blade control and the two machine screws at the left and right sides of the rear cover. After this, the rear cover was free to come off, only needing a bit of persuasion with a plastic mallet to come free. Removal of the front cover was a bit more involved. The first item to be removed was a small metal block trough which the wiper shaft passed. With this block removed, the shaft spring could be released by straightening a crimped washer holding the wiper shaft in the motor. Straightening this removed the tension from the locking spring for the shaft, allowing it to slide back out through the motor. With this out, the three nuts holding the front cover on can be removed. 3: Motor cleanup and check-out: Before we disassemble anything, let's have a good look at what we're disassembling. Looking at the gearcase end, the first thing you'll see is a 110-tooth gear drilled with an offset bearing. In that bearing is the pin from a shaft that runs to a follower arm with a hole down its center. This is the bit that the wiper shaft comes out of. Under the 110-tooth gear is a double gear, which engages both the edge of the 110-tooth gear and the motor shaft. This intermediate gear is made of phenolic and, I am told, can disintegrate if the motor is abused with heavy loads. The motor shaft runs through the central casting into the back half, where the windings, rotor and switching are. What I'll be detailing here is a general cleanup/greasing/inspection. This cleared up 99% of the problems on both my motors, and seems like the favorite mode of failure for this design. Now comes the fun bit, where we get REALLY dirty. Fill a small container with grease solvent - personally I like the newer orange-based stuff, as it's friendlier to the environment and my lungs. Working carefully, remove the gears from the front of the motor and clean them in the solvent, using a toothbrush to get out the stubborn bits of gunk from the gearteeth. DON'T soak the fiber gear for an extended period - it WILL have problems if you do. Also clean the pins that are on the shaft to the follower arm of accumulated crud. Also, get a cotton swab into the bearing holes in the casting and clean them out to eliminate the old grease completely. We want to remove the follower arm from the casting to give it a good cleaning inside and out. if yours are like mine, the edges of the back of the hollow shaft are mushroomed, stopping it from sliding out. In this case CAREFULLY file away the burrs and work the shaft out of the bearings. DON'T FORCE IT OUT! You'll eat the bearings. Clean the inside hollow of the shaft with solvent, as well as the inside of the bearings the hollow shaft rode in. Use a cotton swab with solvent, being careful to keep the solvent off the electrical bits. The motor rotor's the next bit we want to deal with. Its two bronze bushings need to be cleaned and regreased. This part is tricky - If you don't feel comfortable after reading it through, then skip it if the rotor turns freely and runs OK. Remove the two nuts holding the rear bearing in place. It will slide up the motor shaft, and the carbon brushes will disengage from the copper contacts. WATCH OUT FOR THE BRUSHES! If yours is like mine, they will be slung forcefully out of the motor, landing several feet away. If lost, don't panic. Most hardware stores can provide brushes for small power tools that can be made to serve nicely with a bit of filing. As a matter of fact, I've replaced the brushes in both my motors anyway, as they were badly worn. Pivot the rear bearing assembly out of the way, being careful of the wires from the brushes to the coil below. With this, the rotor can be withdrawn from the stator. Clean its bearing surfaces with solvent, also the bearings themselves. 4: Reassembly: First thing to go back in is the motor rotor. Grease its bearing surfaces with a good coat of an all-purpose grease, and reinsert it into the hole in the stator. Fitting the rear bearing is a bit involved. You need to hold the brushes open with the points of a pair of needlenose plier and slide the bearing back over the rear rotor shaft, being careful of the attached wires at all times. It's easier if you present the bearing assembly so that the end of the rotor shaft can slip straight back into the bearing - hold it straight! It seems tricky, but it can be done! Worst-case, tie the brushes back with a bit of wire so you can devote both hands to engaging the shaft. Reattach the rear bearing with the two nuts removed earlier and tighten. Now, grease the bearings of each of the gears and put them back in place in the front of the casting. The fiber gear goes in first, then the 110-tooth gear, then reinsert the hollow shaft you took out earlier, making sure to grease all of the bearings and pivot points as you put it back together. A NOTE ON GREASE: You might want to make very sure that the lubricant you use has proper cold-weather characteristics. Some all-purpose lubricants congeal in cold weather, making the operation of the wipers very difficult. Once you have all of the bits back in properly, turn the rotor of the motor by hand to make sure nothing's binding. If all's well, put the front gearcase cover back on and test-run the motor. If it passes, great!. Now we can put the wiper shaft back into the motor and complete reassembly. Reinsert the wiper shaft from the rear of the motor. Over the shaft from the front of the motor, slide on the cleaned tension spring and either the washer you removed to free it, or a retaining ring of the proper size. Personally, I went with the retaining rings so that I could periodically open and regrease the motors. From "Russell G. Dushin" Mon May 8 14:59:39 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 95 14:59:39 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Tutorial: On the repair of wiper motors > Having just had the unmitigated pleasure of reworking the > wiper motors on my 109 pickup, I've decided to pull the lessons > learned in this process together into a tutorial for those > fortunate souls who haven't had this pleasure... Ah, the antithesis of Nigel's Disease at work (I'm in the midst of a few of these myself). > This is based solely on my experience disassembling, cleaning > and reassembling the two wiper motors on my car, and doesn't > construe any official policy of Land-Rover, the British government, > Margaret Thatcher or anyone else but me..... and me, and him, and her, and that..... > NOTE: For those of us thinking of converting positive-ground cars > to negative, ground, these motors work quite well with either polarity > grounded. They turn the same way with either polarity to the shell > of the motor. You sure about this? I always wondered if reversing the polarity on yer rover might give you troubles with the wipers (reversed motor spinning might catch a brush on an armature's rough edge....chip, chip?)....gotta be....I'll check. > What I'll be detailing here is a general cleanup/greasing/inspection. > This cleared up 99% of the problems on both my motors, and seems > like the favorite mode of failure for this design. Generally, this is all they usually need. Brushes and their springs/ spring holders do frequently fail, however....thence they sit, used only in "manual mode" until they freeze up completely. (And yes, they are still salvagable.....I've saved two recently that spent a decade out in the rain.) As you relate, brushes can be obtained from some electrical motor geek store. I "fabricated" some brush spring hoders from the thickest part of a plastic milk carton. Looks stock (from the outside)! > from the gearteeth. DON'T soak the fiber gear for an extended period - > it WILL have problems if you do. Also clean the pins that are on the shaft Absolutely. I just clean this one with a rag and leave it at that. > We want to remove the follower arm from the casting to give it a good > cleaning inside and out. if yours are like mine, the edges of the back > of the hollow shaft are mushroomed, stopping it from sliding out. In this > case CAREFULLY file away the burrs and work the shaft out of the bearings. I've never seen one like this.....the follower arms just drop right out (and are held in by grease and the casing itself).....I'd suggest NOT mushrooming them back in. > Remove the two nuts holding the rear bearing in place. It will slide up > the motor shaft, and the carbon brushes will disengage from the copper [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > matter of fact, I've replaced the brushes in both my motors anyway, as > they were badly worn. Two suggestions...... 1) unsolder the connections to the coil/incoming hot wire first. Much easier to handle when it isn't all strung together by those flimsy wire wrappings of the somewhat delicate coil. 2) Clean up the armature while you've got the motor's rotor out. A few quick spins around "finger pinched fine grit sandpaper" will clean it pronto, thence a razor blade to clean out between the crevices on the armature. > Fitting the rear bearing is a bit involved. You need to hold the brushes > open with the points of a pair of needlenose plier and slide the bearing > back over the rear rotor shaft, being careful of the attached wires at > all times. I use two tiny screwdrives to hold the brushes in the fully open position and a touch of patience with perserverance on the side. Bravo! But you forgot to mention that these Lucas wipers can fetch $300 on the open market. Whatever you do, DON'T throw them away, rd/nigel From Peter.Wong@gsa.gov Mon May 08 12:45:53 1995 Date: Mon, 08 May 95 12:45:53 EST From: Peter.Wong@gsa.gov Subject: Re[2]: Discovery floor mats Russell, I ordered the Disco mats from LR but had to return them for the following reason; 1) the one for the lips would have been great for the kids but the rear seat could not close fully against the right side. 2) the ones without the lip did not fit correctly into the vehicle. I have found that the Herrington catalog has a product for about 129 (US) which is a liner with a lip but do not have any experience with that product but they claim it fits. Peter. > Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats > Author: "Russell G. Dushin" at Internet [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)] > > usuriously priced mats? > Yeah. Walmart. From Charlie Wright Mon May 8 22:44:58 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 22:44:58 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Sacrilige, but.... Gosh, my '66 has a great cruise control... old mechanical unit up on the dash ;-) Come to think of it, the '70 did too, it was a piece of 2"x4" bolted to the side of the foot-well just beside the pedal... when my foot was flat to the wood, the pedal was just right for the motorway... Charlie From wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson) Mon May 08 18:31:43 1995 Date: Mon, 08 May 1995 18:31:43 -0500 (CDT) From: wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson) Subject: Digest problems--Help! Lucas involved? I am having digest problems (ha, ha, pun) and was wondering if anyone could please help. I was previously on the individual message mode. Finding the #of daily messages too high, I unsubscribed and resubscribed, hoping to then receive just the full digest each day and not the 50-60 individual messages. I now receive BOTH the digest and the individual messages each day, and am beginning to wonder if the Majordomo has a Lucas voltage regulator or something. I have tried the unsubscribe-resubscribe trick several times (and gotten the right confirmations from the Majordomo) without good results. I know, like everything British and electrical, I shouldn't have tampered with it in the first place, but could someone please help? Henry B. Wilson (wilsonhb@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu or henben@aol.com) '59 Austin Healey 100-6 '94 LR Discovery 5-speed From "Rostykus, John" Mon May 08 16:43:00 1995 Date: Mon, 08 May 95 16:43:00 PDT From: "Rostykus, John" Subject: Part suppliers in Scotland or northern England This is directed at the list members living in the UK (or anyone else with info about Land Rover parts suppliers in the UK). My wife and I will be in Scotland for 10 days roaming the countryside, and will be looking for various items on my parts wish/need list. I am looking for advice on reputable parts suppliers that are located either in Scotland or in northern England. I know of many that are in middle or southern England, but am not likely to make it that far south. Please send your insights to 'john@data-io.com' before Thursday May 11th, or to the list if you thinks it's relevant. Thanks for your help. Rosty john@data-io.com From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Mon May 8 19:42:46 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 19:42:46 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: "The Land Rover Experience" Land Rover is offering a series of "experiences" at two sites in the US; unfortunately, the UK site (at Eastnor Castle, no less) is already 'sold out'. The US sites will be in the Beaverkill Valley area (Catskill Mountains) of New York state and on the Monterey peninsula of California. These three day/three night sessions include lodging, meals and training in Land Rover vehicles; each location is limited to 15 participants. The California dates are Sept. 13-16, 16-19, 20-23 and 23-26 with lodging at the 1,700 acre Carmel Valley Ranch; training will be in the nearby Hollister Hills State Vehicle Recreation Area and other sites nearby. Folks attending the New York event will stay at the Beaverkill Valley Inn (circa 1893) with vehicle training in the nearby Catskill Mountains; this experience is scheduled for July 7-10, 10-13, 13-16 and 16-19. Instructors at each location will include Camel Trophy veterans and other off road professionals. Tread Lightly! principles for off-road driving will part of the learning process. However, with the degree of luxury afforded by the food and lodging at each event, it is a fairly expensive experience. Yours truly gets no compensation from these events (though Land Rover North America did contibute a hefty chunk of change to the Mid Atlantic Land Rover Rally last year). For more information, contact Nancy McCaig at 804-581-1331 or E-Mail to lr88@aol.com. or call 800-726-5655. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From BobandSueB@aol.com Mon May 8 20:07:22 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 20:07:22 -0400 From: BobandSueB@aol.com Subject: LROA, NA Membership Directory Hi All, The Summer '95 issue of the Aluminum Workhorse will contain an LROA, NA Membership Directory. The Directory contains the names, addresses and phone numbers, in alphabetical order, by State and last name, with a separate list for Foreign (non-U.S.). This year's Directory will also include primary vehicle driven or owned, and *e-mail* address, where available. Our records contain *some* Land Rover (i.e. '51 Series I 80'', or ? SIIA 109, '89 RR, '95 Discovery, '94 D90 to list a few) vehicle listings for members who have provided us with this information on their membership application. We also have *some* e-mail addresses for members we communicate with on a regular basis. If you are an LROA, NA member, *and* you would like your LR type driven and e -mail address included in the 1995 LROA, NA Membership Directory, please e-mail us with that information ASAP. If you are an LROA, NA member, and you *DO NOT* want your name published in the Membership Directory, please let us know this ASAP. Cheers, Bob and Sue Bernard, LROA, NA P. O. Box 1144, Paradise, CA 95967-1144 916 877-5656 From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Mon May 8 18:37:20 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 18:37:20 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: Discovery floor mats > I picked up a 4' by 6' one inch thick rubber mat from > the local farm store. Cutting is was a bitch. but it [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > by the weigh, it is about 100 lbs. > Russ Rover used to sell what they called "mud matts". They were made from little sections of cut up tires, just like some door matts you can buy at the hardware store. I have a set* of OEM "mud matts" in the front of my '64 88". I was unable to get the OEM one for the rear, so I made one. I bought several door matts at the hardware store, took them apart and restrung the little rubber rectangles on some longer wire, to fit the rear of the 88". These are just what you need in your Rover. dirt falls through, you just throw 'em out on the driveway and hose 'em off. Protects the floor from heavy objects, like that diff you picked up at the breakers. deadens the noise and provides thermal insulation. Make a set today. R, bg *15 years old a just as good as new From Spenny@aol.com Mon May 8 23:12:35 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 23:12:35 -0400 From: Spenny@aol.com Subject: Re: Rampant Nationalism/Downeast Rally dkenner@emr1.emr.ca (Dixon Kenner)wrote: and Cdn$5 for Canadians. Canadians do not have to supply five dollars US. (for the BBQ) And he is correct, I apologise for my amer-centric slip-up. spenny From jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Mon May 8 20:18:21 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 20:18:21 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: D90 transfer break in Just a quick question for comments on anyone out there with a D90. I drive a US market 1994 model. I've been noticing difficulty in getting the transfer case into center differential lock, and there is a tendency for it to occasionally pop out. This is similar to behavior I initially noticed in first gear and low range. Both the latter have disappeared with time. Has anyone else had this "problem" (is it a problem)? I'm assuming that this is just a matter of breaking in since the diff lock hasn't been used all that much. Is this the case? I thought I'd bring it to the dealers attention in case a warranty repair is warranted if it doesn't disapper with a few thousand more miles and offroad sessions. I'd appreciate a direct E-mail response if you're responding from the LRO digest since its performance of late has more than convinced me that the system contains Lucas parts. thanks Jeremy Bartlett (jjbpears@ix.netcom.com) From "Walter C. Swain" Mon May 8 21:05:30 1995 Date: Mon, 8 May 1995 21:05:30 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" Subject: Re: Digest problems--Help! Lucas involved? >>>>> Henry B. Wilson writes: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] > something. I have tried the unsubscribe-resubscribe trick several times (and > gotten the right confirmations from the Majordomo) without good results. You've probably gotten a number of replies to your message, but here's another one. As near as I can figure out, we are all getting a mixed bag of messages. Some stranger than others. Your situation may be aggravated by an additional extenuating circumstance. Bill C., the Majordomo's Lord and Master, is away for a total of some 2-3 weeks, and NOTHING is working the way it should. Although the server is a Sun (I gather) it has apparently been retrofitted with Lucas relays and vaccuum tubes in Bill's absence. The best solution is to recognize that there is nothing to be done for the present, delete ALL of the individual messages as well as the bounced digests that have driven so many formerly sane(?) LROs over the edge and get on with life as you'd like it to be. Bill is expected to return someday and will shape up the Majordomo when he gets around to it. In otherwords, treat it just like a Land Rover, and it will get you to your destination. Walt Swain From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 08 95 May EDT 1918 Date: 08 May 95 18:49:09 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Misc. After days of no mail my mail is increasing exponentially,23 messages today, most repeat, repeat etc. how long before the mailserver dissappears up it's own derriere ? To travel at 90 mph in a ser 3 LR requires an engine speed of 5450 rpm in top gear with standard gearing, Jory if you can do this what is the secret? rocket Fuel.? I have travelled at these speeds with modified motors i.e. V8 engines and modified gearing, even in a diesel with much modified gearing anf oversize tyres, the major problem being with 4 huge flywheels the thing would not stop!! Sperry the Viking you want, is it from the P4 hood or the P6 side ?, I think I have both. At the risk of repeating myself I say again, standard Land Rover wheels are NOT designed to be operated without inner tube tyres. I am sure that in the event of an accident associated with wheels the insurance company would disown you for operating without tubes. I have operated Land Rovers for over quarter of a century, on and off road and provided proper tubes are used I have had no major problems. Andy Play in the front diff input shaft is a combination of the backlash in several parts and is usually much more than the rear, The backlash is made up of some or all of the following : drive flange to shaft ;pinion to wheel ; wheel to planet carrier housing ; planet carrier housing to planet shaft : planet shaft to planet gear ; planet gear to planet gear : planet gear bore to quarter shaft : quarter shaft to hookes joint; hookes joint bearings. hookes joint to quarter shaft ; quarter shaft to drive flange ; drive lange to wheel hub and of course since many of these are duplicated side to side the effect is complicated. It is therefore necessary to look at alFrom Mike Slade Mon May 22 08:55:25 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 08:55:25 -0600 (MDT) From: Mike Slade Subject: fuel sender question Is it possible to rebuild an '88 fuel tank sender? I have a current and the guage reads 1/2 whether or not the float is moved. I disconnect the sender and I still have a current and the guage still reads 1/2. Occasionally the guage will sporadically jump up and down, but I haven't determined if that is related to fuel level at all. That's all. Thanks, Michael PS anyone got a used one for sale???? From maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Mon May 22 11:05:54 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 11:05:54 -0400 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Subject: Rings & Things OK, let's see if this thing works... I'm in the process of rebuilding my spare 2.25 gas engine and need help on two things: Does anyone know of a UK supplier that has oversized pistons with chrome rings or just ring sets by themselves? The US costs are pretty hefty at the moment. Aftermarket are OK as long as you think the quality is good and the rings are chrome. I don't know the oversize yet. The shop will bore it out until the bores are clean then recommend the next oversize. The final bore will be done once they have the pistons. Also I'm looking for genuine lifter (tappet) rollers & sliders. They're astronomical here and I've heard several horror stories regarding aftermarket lifter components. Any ideas on suppliers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a bunch, Bill maloney@wings.attmail.com From Russell Burns Mon May 22 8:15:48 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 95 8:15:48 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: we're back ..... You don't by chance use the Range Rover with a PTO, to power Majordomo...... Thanks for all the support Russ Burns 91 Range-Rover 94 D-90 > OK people, > the list was away, but now it is back, well mostly... [ truncated by lro-digester (was 29 lines)] > old, and since it isn't that cold here the alarm and clock should not have > drained it so much so quickly... so off to general tyre... From "John R. Benham" Mon May 22 09:12:44 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 09:12:44 +1100 From: "John R. Benham" Subject: Blowing Oil Dave, Mine used to do this due to a less than optimal condition rear engine seal. Short of replacing this seal (assuming this is your problem), you can use a heavier 20/50 weight oil and vent your engine to the intake manifold via a PCV valve. I found a PCV valve at NAPA that works great. Unfortunately, I do not have the number with me at work now. I just got back from several weeks in Arizona doing a project near Cleator and Crown King. Through the digest, I met James Howard who recently purchased a L/R in Phoenix but lives in Flagstaff. He works at the Naval Observatory there and took us on an extensive tour of their new optical project. Only after after seeing his new L/R and discussing local future trip localities. We came back via monument valley and SE Utah! Incredible off roads and scenary there! Later, John R. Benham - Editor N.3616 Dowdy Road `The Rover Runner' Spokane, WA 99204 USA ______ |______\_____ 1968 88 IIA Marine Blue *--- [|_/-\____/-\_|} The `BWANA' Mobile *--- (O) (O) 509.747.0692 (H); 509.353.2700 (W); E-Mail: benham@wfoclan.usbm.gov From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Mon May 22 09:19:14 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 09:19:14 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: UK Source for Toro/Bearmach Welcome back Major! Does anyone in UK have a source for Toro/Bearmach overdrive kits, willing to ship to the US? Fax numbers appreciated. Thanks in advance, Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Mon May 22 17:23:27 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 95 17:23:27 BST From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Subject: Re: Serial Numbers Hi everyone, good to be back! Is there anyyone out there who knose all there is to know about chassis nos? My landy is registered as a 'W' i.e. in 1981. (The 'W' bit won't mean anything to you guys in the other side of the pool). However, as far as I am aware the numbering of LRs changed in 1979 (or '80) and my number is of the old type. What is more, just to add to the connfusion, the chassis (or is it serial) no. begins 903.... Now I think 901 means SWB petrol home market, 902 is LHD export and 904 is RHD export (or vice versa) but I can't find any reference to 903. Can anyone help? This all arose when I ordered post 1980 wheel bearings, only to find out that they were the wrong ones! Have fun! Ian From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Mon May 22 10:20:50 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 95 10:20:50 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: fuel sender question In message <199505221456.JAA07371@butler.uk.stratus.com> Mike Slade writes: > Thanks, > Michael > PS anyone got a used one for sale???? I have a couple of extra series II under seat petrol tank sender units sitting around I get rid of. Where are you? I'm looking for 2 series III petrol under seat tanks sender units. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Mon May 22 14:12:04 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 14:12:04 -0400 From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Subject: Disco tire pressures LROs- I've got a question about the recommended tire pressures for on-road travel in Disco's. According to the manual, front tires should be inflated to 26 psi and rear to 34 psi. Why is this? I've never owned a vehicle that recommended anything other than equal tire pressures all around. Moreover, I would have suspected that the front, bearing most of the weight, would have been the tires with suggested >higher< pressures. So what's the reasoning behind the recommended pressures? I'd also like to comment on the BSROA outing this past weekend. All in all, it was a very well run event (but next time let's meet on the beach, instead of in a parking lot!). About 20 vehicles showed up, predominantly discos, with a couple-three each of defenders, RRs, and series beasts. We ran the beaches at Race Point, which is on Cape Cod, USA. The highlight of the day was when our group came upon a stuck Explorer, who we helped winch out. A jeep didn't take kindly to the backup this caused and tried to run around us closer to the water (nearly running over a child on a blanket in the process). No one rushed to help the jeepsters when they got stuck, even with the tide coming in. Eventually everyone got on his/her way, without any major damage, except perhaps to some egos. I'd highly recommend a club event to anyone who hasn't gone out en masse. It is a very different experience to solo or small groups, and the entourage of Rovers raised a fuss pretty much everywhere we went. -Bob rvirzi@gte.com Think Globally. === +1(617)466-2881 === Act Locally! From rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Mon May 22 14:34:42 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 14:34:42 -0400 From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Subject: Net Warning on LR Winch installs Here's something I tried to get out during the time Major Domo was on strike. I cannot vouch for the reliability of this info, but I found this tidbit posted to rec.4x4. Please reply to,"Stephen C. Gross" , not me if you want more info. -Bob .... Included message starts here .... rec.autos.4x4 From reischer@ridgefield.sdr.slb.com (Andy Reischer) Mon May 22 15:47:00 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 15:47:00 -0400 (EDT) From: reischer@ridgefield.sdr.slb.com (Andy Reischer) Subject: tires and rims Hi... I've got a 100 inch coiler ragtop. Does anyone have recomendations for wheel /tire combinations. I've heard the Cooper Discovery works well. I am almost never on rock. The LR only see's sand, snow and pavement. I currently have the stock 15 inch rims with 30.5 * 9.5 *15 XCH4's. The LR seems to bounce with these tires but they are pretty good aired down on sand. I think the tire is too big for the rim, and the sidewalls are too stiff. There are also at least 3 LR steel wheels to choose from. I think I should go to a 16 inch rim because the tire dosn't need to be as big(bouncy) and because I can't find wide enough plain steel wheels.(I hate wagon wheels). I also think that I should keep with the LR offset because they keep a wider track. Any suggestions ??????? Andy Reischer From Tim Guy Thu May 18 19:21:52 1995 Date: Thu, 18 May 95 19:21:52 From: Tim Guy Subject: Baby Land Rover I was at a company in Birmingham, about 2 months ago repairing a computer, On the machine was Power point, and within that was a presentation for a 'Person friendly' nudge bar (ie, its a fake, it doesnt hurt when you bounce off it) for the new Baby Land Rover, So I assume the project must be well on the way. Tim Guy - Timbo@hurtwood.demon.co.uk From chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Mon May 22 16:26:20 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 16:26:20 -0500 From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Baby Rattles Welcome back digest and Bill C. I asked this question before the digest went down and don't know if it made it to the masses. My SRIIA 88" has a nasty rattle...loose-metal sounding thing...when I'm going up a hill or the engine is straining. Sound's like it is coming from the back of the engine. It is a new noise...not one of the usual Rover noises. Is it a clutch plate going bad, something loose in the transmission, engine, or my brain? Chris Chris Stevens 1969 SR IIA 88" SW BCG Corporate Communications Towson, Maryland, USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net From David John Place Mon May 22 17:18:46 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 17:18:46 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: fuel sender question Before you toss the fuel sender, get an ohm meter and put it across the terminals of the sender and see if you get a different reading throughout the scarle. If yes the sender is OK and the meter is at fault. If the sender is the problem, look and see if the wire is still intact and not too burned. You may be able to burnish it a bit and get it to read. It sounds like it is coated with an insulating crud and won/\'t read over the entire scale. It it was open you would read nothing. A bit of very fine emery closth or a spray with contact cleaner and a wipe may do the trick. Dave VE4PN From Alan Richer 22 95 May EDT 1918 Date: 22 May 95 18:43:13 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Info for a friend: What engine swaps are OK? A friend who is looking into Land-Rover acquisition has asked me (so I'm an expert, I own one?) which engines are acceptable swaps into a Land-Rover, and how this actually gets done. I will confess to a bit of curiousity myself, as it seems every Rover in Land Rover Owner's International seems to have either an Iveco, Rover or other powerplant it didn't leave the factory with. Do they sell adapter kits for this? Yours, aj"Not with MY Diesel you don't"r From David John Place Mon May 22 17:58:44 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 17:58:44 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Land Rovers in Louisiana I expect to be leaving for Louisiana to do some disaster relief work with the American Red Cross. Is there anyone out there from Land Rover-dom I might try to visit with while there? Also I am looking for some way to get into the Internet. Is there someone in Lousiana who can help me get a free or low cost ramp for about three weeks. I should know within 24 hours where exactly I will be but I suspect it is where the tornado ran over the Sears store. Dave VE4PN From Craig Murray Tue May 23 9:09:02 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 95 9:09:02 EST From: Craig Murray Subject: Re: Info for a friend: What engine swaps are OK? Hi alan, Well, down here in Australia, you can buy adaptors to put Holden (GM) 6 cylinders, v8's, Nissan 4 & 6 cylinder diesels, nissan gear boxes and transfer cases, and a whole bunch of others that I don't know about. Infact, if you want a conversion to put a holden six into a Land Rover, then I can sell you the one that I pulled out of my Series 1. -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! From "S.Vels Christensen" Mon May 23 00:11:19 1994 Date: Mon, 23 May 1994 00:11:19 -0600 (CST) From: "S.Vels Christensen" Subject: Re: Bush hog, speedo stutters, tubless tires Retransmission From UncleBrad@aol.com Mon May 22 19:27:39 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 19:27:39 -0400 From: UncleBrad@aol.com Subject: Film crew seeking Rover owners I received a call from a fellow in the UK the other day. He works for a TV production company which is going to be travelling across the US this summer. They will be working on a film which focuses on the theme, "Rovers Across America". Apparently this group is covering many British marques and has already done "Jags Across America". For this trip, they are looking for people in the US who use Land Rovers in their work. If you know of any such people who might be willing to be filmed with their Rover sometime in September, could you please contact me at: AW Editor@aol.com or 510-687-0955 Thanks a million! Brad Blevins From tonyy@ntalpha.nt.bom.gov.au (Tony Yates) Tue May 23 08:52:19 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 08:52:19 EST From: tonyy@ntalpha.nt.bom.gov.au (Tony Yates) Subject: Salisbury axle on RR Before everything went down someone asked about fitting a Salisbury axle to the rear of their RR. I have one comment and one question: Unless a late model Defender axle were used (unlikely), then it would be fitted with drum brakes. This is likely to lead to serious insurance implications unless it were converted to discs. Can a Salisbury axle be easily converted to discs? I have a 110 V8 with drums on the rear. They work well enough when adjusted properly but keeping them adjusted is a pain. (I know - I'm getting soft, I used to drive IIAs with brakes that were vague at best). ===================================================================== Tony Yates () ()( ) Darwin RFC ph: (089) 824 724 ( ) Bureau of Meteorology fax: (089) 824 729 ~~~~~~~ PO Box 735 ///// Darwin NT 0801 email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au /// Australia // ===================================================================== From "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com> 22 95 May EDT 1919 Date: 22 May 95 19:53:14 EDT From: "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com> Subject: June 3rd north GA trip If anyone would like to attend a off road ride on the above date in the north GA mountains let me know. This will be mildly challenging and non-damaging to stock new vehicles (been down it in my Disco) so no need to fear. If you need the particulars E-mail me at: Mark Ritter 70472.1130@compuserve.com From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Mon May 22 16:54:57 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 95 16:54:57 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: Downeast Rally All, Anyone going to the Downeast Rally in Maine on June 30th ??? There are 3 Land Rovers here in SW New Hampshire who are going up about lunchtime Friday. Anyone coming over from Vermont, New York, CT, NJ etc who wants to convoy up ???? Mark From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Mon May 22 17:12:39 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 95 17:12:39 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: Net Warning on LR Winch installs Interestingly the winch problem was mentioned in Four Wheeler magazine on their long term Defender. They too said the performance did not live up to the usual Warn standards, because of the wiring used. Never mind, the Defender arrangement could be sold as a Lucas winch. Cheers John Brabyn Mill Valley, Ca 89 RR From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Mon May 22 21:28:08 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 21:28:08 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Logs Saturday, May 20th - This year's Camel Trophy began amid the three "H's": hornets, heat and humidity. Participants in the 16th annual event had to contend with temperatures of 37 C (body temperature) for the initial 11 Special Tasks held near Lamanai, Belize. A second set of tasks will await the twenty national teams near the end of their two week, 1,700 km traverse of the "Mundo Maya" - the Mayan world. Former Dutch olympic hockey goalie, Erik-Jan de Rooy, was the first casualty; he was struck in the eye by a "yellow jacket". This wasn't your wimpy, North American insect, but rather something resembling a two inch Kamakazie. Only quick action by a Dutch journalist averted long term problems. Within an hour, three others had been similarly attacked. (By the way, Belize is home to the Africanized "killer" bee.) The first special task involved a canoe race across the Rio Azul lagoon in traditional dories. This was followed by an orienteering run, the recovery of symbolic Mayan relics from the bottom of the river, and a run up the tallest Mayan pyramid. In the heat of the day, this was difficult; team doctor Mike Irani cautioned everyone to drink a litre of water an hour. The tasks continued into the night for 30 hours straight, with the toughest orienteering runs held during the coolest part of the day - just the time that all the wildlife comes out. Sunday, May 21st - After 30 constant hours of efforts at the special tasks, the Polish team of Marek Klar and Wojciech Stawowiak emerged as the early leaders. But the teams had little chance to savor the completion - in a little over an hour after the completion of the special tasks, the teams had to grab a bite to eat and pack their Discoveries for the start of the expedition. Target by Monday is the Guatamalean town of Rio Azul where the team will depart for an 8 km trek on foot to an uncharted archaeological site. There, the participants will assist researchers in mapping the extent of this unexplored site. Stay tuned! *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From "Stephen O'Hearn" <72700.3262@compuserve.com> 22 95 May EDT 1921 Date: 22 May 95 21:30:15 EDT From: "Stephen O'Hearn" <72700.3262@compuserve.com> Subject: D90 break in Pierce writes: >I have the same thing on my D90. It's getting better with miles (only 2K so >far) . I am treating it as part of break-in, not regarding it as a problem. >I had the same on a Ford Bronco I had a few years ago... for the first few K >miles, it was hard to shift into first and even second and the transfer case did >not like to lock in place. It went away after a while and the vehicle never >gave me a bit of trouble. My experience is that after 7,500 or so things shift very nicely indeed. - Stephen (finally an LROA member!) p.s. It's nice to see the list back on line :-) +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Stephen O'Hearn 1994 LAND- Tread Lightly | | El Segundo, CA, USA DEFENDER -ROVER on Public and | | 72700.3262@compuserve.com 90 The Best 4x4xFar Private Lands | +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+ From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Mon May 22 18:33:30 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 18:33:30 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Info for a friend: What engine swaps are OK? Alan Richer writes: >A friend who is looking into Land-Rover acquisition has asked me (so I'm an expert, I own one?) which engines are acceptable swaps into a Land-Rover, and how this actually gets done. >I will confess to a bit of curiousity myself, as it seems every Rover in Land Rover Owner's International seems to have either an Iveco, Rover or other powerplant it didn't leave the factory with. >Do they sell adapter kits for this? Scotty in Concord, California (510-686-2255) sells Chevy 250 adapter plates, and various other engines. He says that the 250 is more than enough power for a LR. After you blow the transmission, transfer case, and differentials, he'll fix those too! :) Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From vogel@shrsys.hslc.org Mon May 22 21:52:22 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 21:52:22 EST From: vogel@shrsys.hslc.org Subject: D90 in Four Wheeler The June issue of Four Wheeler magazine not only contains a Defender 90 long term update, but also an article on modifying D90 and other coil- sprung Land Rover suspensions. Tom Vogel Gladwyne, PA SWB III 1972 From HIM88@aol.com Mon May 22 23:09:56 1995 Date: Mon, 22 May 1995 23:09:56 -0400 From: HIM88@aol.com Subject: subscribe Subscribe. From JWootton@eworld.com Tue May 23 00:22:38 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 00:22:38 -0700 From: JWootton@eworld.com Subject: Re-build vs buy again This question is to be ignored by anyone with masses of time, or money, or an insatiable appetite for fixing (not driving) landrovers... I have a 1974 series III '88, which is currently a lawn ornament under my apple tree. The frame and the firewall are shot (as is the patience of my family who would like to use the space for soccer, etc ). The question is: would it be better ( read, easier, cheaper) to buy another series III in slightly better shape, or bite the bullet and order a new ( ah, galvanized) frame and firewall, and spend the rest of my evenings 'till the millenium getting the job done. Has anyone else cut this Gordian knot, and what was the decision? Also, why did my family name my landrover "FOLLY"? From Mr Ian Stuart Tue May 23 09:58:19 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 09:58:19 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Hi folks, Rovers in films & John R God, it's been quiet ;} You have no idea (well, actually, you do) how *boring* it's been without the LRO list.... Anyway - Land Rovers in films: You all know about the 101's in Judge Dredd. In Dumb & Dumber, there is a *very* stretched RR - just as our to 'Heros' reach Aspin. John R. arrived here is Scotland, but failed to appear at the CCVT event on the 14th - he'd disappeared to York to seek out parts. This was a bit of a shame as we'd got 3 101's together for him, plus a plethora of competition-class vehicles battling it out at the Trials. He was seen by a friend of mine (who happed to know his wife) on the 15th, so he was alive :-) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. WWW sites: Work -- Play -- From Mr Ian Stuart Tue May 23 10:00:02 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 10:00:02 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: SLROC events For details of the SLROC events, look up http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/SLROC/events.html The information is in table form, so you really need a browser which can display tables.... ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. WWW sites: Work -- Play -- From Peter Kutschera Tue May 23 10:01:35 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 10:01:35 +0200 From: Peter Kutschera Subject: Re: fuel sender question Hello! I also had a problem with the gauge. Try if there is a good electric connection between the tank and ground! Peter Signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter From "Eric Desmond (III)" Tue May 23 11:59:28 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 11:59:28 BST From: "Eric Desmond (III)" Subject: Fuel Sender Question I had a similar problem with the fuel sender. I would fill the tank with diesel, drive 20 miles, and the gauge would register empty. A friend traced the problem when he noticed diesel on his car's bonnet when he follwed me. And the tank is NOT made by Lucas! -- Later, Eric. *-------------------------------------------------------------* | | | #====# | | |__|__\___ ** | | | _| |_ |} ***** | | ~"(_)""""(_)" ******* | -----*__***************TheBest4x4xFortyYears***** | | | * | | Eric Desmond (III) sort of? | c1ac@dmu.ac.uk * | | (Sex God In Spare Time) | * | | | * | ===================================================* == * * From Andrew Grafton Tue May 23 12:16:29 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 95 12:16:29 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: MOT tests, diesel tweaking to pass... It's MOT time. In case that abbreviation isn't known to you, the MOT is the UK's vehicle roadworthiness test. One of our Series III 109" 2286 diesels has passed fine except for... Emissions (no real surprise). What we've done so far; * New (recon) injectors * Timing optimally set with smokemeter to minimise smoke, even if the engine doesn't sound quite right * Wound down the pump stop screw so the engine won't rev. very high (max. 19mph in second gear). * Run through one 500ml tin of injector cleaner (now has 'clean' fuel in it) * Removed air filter The basic format of the test is accelerator pedal to the floor for about 2 seconds and then release - machine gives a smoke readout from the widget stuffed up the tailpipe. Our reading at present is a 'K' value of 3.85 (% I think) It needs to be 3.20 or less. This has come down from a value of 6 before tweaking. Anyone have any ideas how to get the (smoky) emissions down for the period of the test, or longer? Like by adding a percentage paraffin to the fuel [<-joke?] or something? Low-cost solutions preferred... Thanks ahead of time, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From Charlie Wright Tue May 23 12:41:15 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 12:41:15 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Fuel Sender Question On Tue, 23 May 1995, Eric Desmond (III) wrote: > I had a similar problem with the fuel sender. I would fill the tank with > And the tank is NOT made by Lucas! I had the 'leaky' sender (tank) problem. Trouble is it only happened AFTER I replaced a (genuinely) defective sender. I had a working guage for all of a week, and then it settled back to "E"... only this time for genuine lack of fuel. Grateful machines, LandRovers, eh? I've learned not to fix minor problems, as L-R's obey the 'law of conservation of problems'. If you fix something, something else will break... and it might be more important. This is closely related to the 'law of leaking fluids' often seen on this list... "if it's not leaking, it's out of something." Charlie From William Caloccia Tue May 23 07:53:55 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 95 07:53:55 -0400 From: William Caloccia Subject: Majordomo has returned from leave And once again is at your service at Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net Cheers, --bill caloccia@Team.Net caloccia@Stratus.Com 1 3 dl OD L "Land Rover's first, because |--|--+ o | | Land Rovers last." 2 4 R ul N H '72 Range Rover From Charlie Wright Tue May 23 13:02:37 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 13:02:37 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: MOT tests, diesel tweaking to pass... Andy, what if you attached the oil bath air cleaner to the _exhaust_ manifold instead of the _inlet_ side... [as you say: <-joke?]. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From harincar@internet.mdms.com Tue May 23 07:54:33 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 07:54:33 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Land Rover Laws Charlie Wright wrote: > ...Grateful machines, LandRovers, eh? I've learned > not to fix minor problems, as L-R's obey the 'law of conservation of [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > fluids' often seen on this list... "if it's not leaking, it's out of > something." Not forgetting Nigel's Desease... There's another law, too - this one has to do with fixing things that *are not* broken. If you do this, surely the new part will fail shortly thereafter. I've been fighting with a new set of points for the last two weeks. I decided to do a routine replacement since I don't know when the previous owner changed them last, and they were pretty pitted. However, up until then, the LR seemed to be running pretty good. Now, the new points keep working themselves out of adjustment after about 20 miles and I get all sorts of sputtering and misfiring (I think they're narrowing the gap allowing the spark to jump). Sheesh... Last time I fix something thats working right... Tim '66 IIa 88 SW --- tim harincar moore graphic services harincar@internet.mdms.com minneapolis, mn From Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 23 95 May EDT 1908 Date: 23 May 95 08:55:19 EDT From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Rebuild Fuel sender Michael: It is possible to rebuild an 88 fuel sender... but I draw the line at re-wrapping the resistor coil. You can bend the tabs away from the cover, lubricate the unit, clean (with fine, fine steel wool) the resistor coil and reassemble, but it will probably jump around some regardless because of the design of a float on a long arm. Sorry, don't have a used one... but glad to try an answer any questions as you get into it. Cheers, R. P. Reid From Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 23 95 May EDT 1909 Date: 23 May 95 09:08:57 EDT From: Pierce Reid <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Latches needed Anyone got in their spare parts bin the following items for sale (or trade or donation to a good cause???) 1. Complete tailgate latch set for a drop tailgate (ie military 88) including the ---0 part that fits on the gate itself. 2. Pair of lower door hinges for a series III This is for a restoration of a trailer to go behind my LR's. Any help would be appreciated bigtime!!!! Cheers, R. P. Reid From harincar@internet.mdms.com Tue May 23 08:07:59 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 08:07:59 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Sightings Hey all, glad we're back. My wife and I took a trip to San Francisco & Area two weekends ago, and I saw a couple nice Series Rovers along with assorted Discos & RR. First series rover was a II or IIa 88 hardtop, blue I think. Second was a poppy hardtop, I think it was an 88, but it was getting late and I was on a street car. Either one of these belong to net people? Anyone else notice the new Foster's Lager billboard campaign? Saw a couple of these in SF. First one had a picture of a really nasty looking bowie knife with the caption "Austrailian for dental floss"; another had a very loaded 109 or 110 (so loaded with junk I couldn't tell for sure) with the caption "Austrailian for Limo". Pretty good humor. Anyone else here from Minneapolis? Saw a nice Disco while cruising the lakes last sunday, and was impressed that he waved to me before I could wave first (I was busy making sure it was safe to have only one hand on the wheel). Maybe its just that "Minnesota Nice" thing again. Tim '66 IIa 88 SW --- tim harincar moore graphic services harincar@internet.mdms.com minneapolis, mn From jssa@ix.netcom.com (JSSA SERE ) Tue May 23 06:20:17 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 06:20:17 -0700 From: jssa@ix.netcom.com (JSSA SERE ) Subject: Temp Gauge Problem The patient is a 1970 IIA with a Rovers North 2.25 rebuilt engine (less than 1000 miles since installation). After a few minutes at idle, the temp gauge reads in the low end of red range. In the course of the last three months I have replaced the radiator, temp sender, temp gauge, voltage stabilizer for the gauge, and thermostat (partly in the course of the restoration, partly out of frustration with the problem). I have taken the temp of coolant tapped from the block and coolant in the radiator and neither location is excessively hot. I have been focusing on an elecrical problem (an alternator was fitted in place of the dynamo when the new engine was installed) but I am not sure what to look for now having replaced most of the components in the circuit. I would be grateful for any advice. Thank you in advance. Stephen De Guire JSSA@ix.netcom.com From "Russell G. Dushin" Tue May 23 10:27:33 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 95 10:27:33 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Land Rover Laws > thereafter. I've been fighting with a new set of points for the last > two weeks. I decided to do a routine replacement since I don't know when [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > they're narrowing the gap allowing the spark to jump). Sheesh... Last > time I fix something thats working right... Are you *certain* you installed them correctly? The two attaching wires slip *under* the insulator (don't crunch it!) and only contact the insulator and the "band" that returns to the moving half of the points.....NOT the small screw/nut/and washer that hold the wires on. Also, be sure that the "male half" of the insulator slips into hole in the metal band and that the band itself doesn't come too close to the screw. OK-it runs, so you've probably got it more or less correct, just check for "cleanliness of assembly". .....and were you only able to *just* reach the required gap?... this seems typical of Lucas points these days (Nige's only last about a year or so before the cheap plastic cam rider wears to the point that the required gap can no longer be reached.) rd/nige From Charlie Wright Tue May 23 15:41:43 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 15:41:43 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Rebuild Fuel sender On 23 May 1995, Pierce Reid wrote: > It is possible to rebuild an 88 fuel sender... but I draw the line at > re-wrapping the resistor coil. You can bend the tabs away from the cover, Yes, up to a point. I tried this, got very frustrated, had the thing in and out and back in time and time again, finally resoved myself to the fact there was an intermittant break in the coil that I coudn't find or fix, and sprung for the 20 pounds. Charlie From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Tue May 23 08:22:19 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 95 08:22:19 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: '70 Land Rover across America - Did you see me? FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: '70 Land Rover across America - Did you see me? Hello all! I recently completed a trip (report to follow shortly) where I bought and drove a 1970 Land Rover "109" 5 door across America, and I wondered if any of you saw me? The "109" is a tan color, I think called "sandstone", with a safari top. (Double layered with a 1 inch or so air gap between layers.) Kind of hard to miss, *big* old rig, with the spare mounted on the hood! (For you non-"roverheads.") I started in upstate New York on May 2nd, and took the following route over the following 2 weeks. New York to Camden Maine, back to Vermont, up through Canada, across Canada to Michigan, through Wisconsin and Illinois, across Iowa, Nebraska, corner of Wyoming, through Colorado to Utah, and back home to Mesa Arizona. Many back roads were taken, as well as interstate highways. I returned to Mesa on the 13th of May. Please let me know if I "ran across" anyone on the lists. (Hope I didn't cut you off or anything!) ;-) Thanks! #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From Tom Stevenson Tue May 23 17:17:11 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 17:17:11 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Stevenson Subject: LR tyres & rims Andy Reischer asked about suitable rims for his hybrid- the wheels fitted to the LR 1-ton and Forward Control have a greater offset than the standard rims (all 5 stud fixing) giving increased track and reduced turning circle. However, they are (a lot) more expensive than standard 16 inch rims. -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 From "Barry Dudley" Tue May 23 18:49:41 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 18:49:41 +200 From: "Barry Dudley" Subject: THANX and here we come AFRICA Hello ALL, This is my last letter (well for at least a year/while) to the WONDERFUL, INCREDIBLE, MARVELLOUS LRO LIST. You see next week we leave OUR JOB'S for AFRICA (no comments to the fact that as I am already in AFRICA how can I leave.....). I would just like to thank all of those who have helped, encouraged, advised, pointed and laughed with (AT??) us. THANX CHAPS. You all have helped tremendously! IF you wish to follow our progress our initial itinerary (up to KENYA at least) goes as follows: Pietermaritzburg up Sani Pass, through Lesotho and down to Cape Town and up the West Coast to Mokhotlong; Maseru; Ladybrand; East London; Port Elizabeth; St Francis Bay; Plettenberg Bay; Knysa; Oudtshorn; Cape Town; Wine Route; Malmesburg; Varrhysdorp; Goegap Nat Res; Augrabies Falls; Upington; (Namibia) Ais-Ai; Hardap Dam; Windhoek; Swakopmund; Spitzkoppe; Otjiwarango; Etosha; Caprivi; (ZIM) Victoria Falls; Bulawayo; Mutare; Nyanga; Harare; Tete; Blantyre; Cape MacLear; Nkhotakota; Mzuzu; Karonga; Mbeya; Iringa; Morogoro; Dar Es Salaam; Zanzibar; Korogwe; Moshi; Kiliminjaro; Ngorogora; Serengeti; Oloolaimulia; Nairobi! Look for a blue/white LAND ROVER with a huge water pipe as a bumper! Time for above - about 3 months. >From there we will try the WEST COAST up to the UK. I will have access to e-mail for the next 2 weeks if you have any comments! Otherwise - see you along the way/at the end/when I next write! Barry, NATASHA and JOHN /==============\ BARRY DUDLEY | | | E-MAIL: DUDLEY@MICR.UNP.AC.ZA [|______|_______|] UNIVERSITY OF NATAL, PMB /___/^^^^^^\___\ |(@) [####] (@)| PH - 0331 - 63123 | o [####] o | ======%%%%====== uMJIKELEZO {*}==={&&}==={*} "ONE THAT NOWHERE IT {*} {*} CAN'T GO WITHOUT PLEASURE" From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Tue May 23 11:04:30 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 95 11:04:30 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: 25 yr old Rover's 4600+ mile "maiden" voyage. (LONG!) FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: 25 yr old Rover's 4600+ mile "maiden" voyage. (LONG!) Hello all! I've been looking for a Land Rover 109 for many months, and had finally found the "perfect" truck. It's a 1970 series IIa Land Rover, dual heaters, seating for 11 people. Good condition, with only a few minor tears in the upholstery, and a small tear in the headliner ("L" shaped with each leg around 1"). Door panels with map pockets, overdrive, rebuilt trans, not that much rust, (one of the outriggers is rusted through, but still relatively solid, and one front "horn" section of the frame has some relatively serious rust.) Only noticeable problem areas were that the fuel gauge and speedometer/odometer didn't work, and rear heater not working, and one unmistakable problem that I could not possibly "live with" was the brakes. It took two pumps of the petal before ANY brake action took place! It was a scary event just trying to stop at the end of the driveway! I assumed that it was bleeding, but decided to take it in and have it checked out by Rovers north in Vermont, since it was right on the way! Oh yeah! One "minor" complication.... I live in Phoenix Arizona, and the truck is in upstate New York! The actual sale had a rough beginning for me. The PO sent photos, I e-mailed back, he answered questions, etc... and then when I was ready to say yes, he'd sold it! Well... eventually the deal fell through, and I was able to acquire it, so a few faxes, check in the mail, plane tickets (I took my 15 yr old son), and we were there! (This REALLY is much condensed!) We arrived late in the afternoon on Tuesday May 2nd, so the first night I only went as far as Burlington Vermont, so I could stop in at Rovers North in the morning. My son and I took turns sleeping in the rear, and front seat of the 109. The front seat is WAY too short for sleeping in but worked for now. In the morning, I got directions to Rovers North, and off we went. I passed up Rovers North, and my son shouted "There it is!", so I had to turn around in a farmers field. Rovers North is in the "middle of nowhere" along a road, in a barn! That's not quite what I expected, or was looking for, but what the heck! The people at RN were very helpful, and we had a very pleasant experience there. I told them of the brake problem, and they informed me that they had a waiting list for service of around 6 weeks! DOOH!! I explained the situation, and the service manager called out his mechanic to check it out. One step of the petal and he informed me that it wasn't bleeding. He drove off, and left me in suspense, but I figured, well, what ever it was, I had to have it done, so I waited. It wasn't difficult waiting, as there were numerous Rovers to examine, 88's, 109's, military units, 110's, even an imported 110 (1989, I think) for sale! I was drooling! I'd never seen one that was not the US spec sold in '93. One of their staff, Lanny, who was off for that day had stopped by, and he knew the PO, and even the PO prior to that, and recollected that this Rover came from Buines Aries? (I think?? Or was that Bahama? Bermuda maybe?? Bolivia?? Darn my memory!!! &-%$&-!!) This verifies the suspicions of the PO that I bought it from, and explains the Mexican and central American maps that were in it when he bought it. (Also, the speedometer is in kilometers/hr.) After a short while, (seemed really short, anyway, but could have been a long time, as I was totally occupied talking to the guys, and checking out all the Rovers) the truck was ready. "Oh! What was wrong?" I asked. The brakes only needed adjusting! They also noticed that the rear drive shaft (propeller shaft) had the wrong bolts, and caused a lot of play. They replaced these as well, and told me that the rear end had a lot of play, and eventually would need replacing or rebuilt. I didn't want to do too much rough 4-wheeling with the truck being so far from home, but near Rovers North, I found some sandy little trails meant for 3 wheelers and quads, but I couldn't resist the temptation to give the old girl a spin in the dirt. Well, I didn't need to put her in 4 wheel drive, but had a fun time going through the trails. Some were a series of hills, around 3 feet tall, spaced about 8 feet apart. Lots of wheel articulation! The old girl did very well, but creaked and clunked with each bump due to the spring mounting bushings being bad. Sounded kind of like a *loud* popcorn maker! Would have been embarrassing had anyone been around. ;-) I had been warned by the PO that the fuel gauge didn't work, but that there was a little warning when it started to run out. Well, as luck would have it, a few miles after passing a fuel station, it started to sputter. Remembering what the PO had said, I quickly attempted a 3 point turn (did I mention the turning radius was 47 feet!?? No joke!) I totally died when the truck was almost perpendicular to the road, and inclined at a fairly good angle with the front on the high side. Walked to town and returned with a gallon. Still nothing. Presuming that there was just not enough to get to the fuel pick up, I went with my son, and we brought back 2 more gallons. Still nothing. Hmmmm.... By now, I think I flooded it, and the battery was beginning to show serious signs of fatigue! Some "locals" stopped to help, and offered to pull start us with a cable that they had. This started it right up, but then when I pulled over on a LEVEL part of the shoulder, it once again died! Now wait just a doggone minute! This CAN'T be a fuel problem! Well, back to basics... I popped the distributor cap, and voilla! the wire to the points was disconnected, and just hanging there, only making sporadic contact. It took all of about 90 seconds to find the problem, and only a few minutes to fix, and she started right up. Total time "wasted"about 4 hours. Bought a 5 gallon fuel can at the next available city, "just in case". Well, on we went, towards Mt. Washington (recommended by "Lanny" at Rovers North). We arrived at Mt. Washington around 6:00pm, and the "auto road" to the top was closed. Well... a slight change of plans, we proceeded to Cameron Maine since neither of us had ever been to the Atlantic ocean. Saw the ocean, (but overslept, and missed the sunrise) and after around half a day, went back to Mt. Washington. This time, we arrived before closing, and took the "auto road" to the "top". Around half way up, the road was CLOSED! What??? But I have a Land Rover! I can make it! Sigh.... no understanding, these park ranger dude's. Well, still, it was pretty. VERY steep road too! The admission charge included a tape of facts about the road and such things. Even mentioned "A" 4 wheel drive vehicle that was the first to make it to the top in the dead of winter without snow chains (or something like that), but neglected to say that it was a Land Rover!!! Boy! I was "slightly irritated"! WE proceeded via the "Kancamagus Highway" and then, onwards to Montreal Canada. Montreal was a BEAUTIFUL city, as far as modern buildings, lit up reflecting on the river and all, but everyone seemed to drive VERY fast! (And I thought I was a fast driver!) All road signs in French, (not a language I can read or write), and expensive petrol, (at least by US standards) I went directly to Sault Ste. Marie to cross over to northern Michigan. I planned out the fuel purchase so that I was real near empty (as far as I could figure) when I left Canada, so I got the first fuel I could find in the US. Little did I realize at the time, but I left the fuel cap in Northern Michigan somewhere. :-( I must have been "sleeping" when I was in Michigan, because I missed the turn off to go towards Wisconsin, and crossed into Michigan on the wrong side of lake Michigan. I was clueless, until I saw a sign saying "Detroit 200 miles". SCREEEEEECH! (Well, the sound of brakes squeaking, not tires! Talk about "anti-lock" brakes!) One u-turn (not the only one on the trip!) and another toll, several more hours wasted, and we were on the right track! Once in Wisconsin, at my sister's farm in Fall River, near Madison, I was able to fix the fuel gauge, (a broken connecter on the sending unit) and the rear heater (wire that was once spliced had come loose), and decided to install a throttle lock (aka "cruise control") that I removed from the other Rover I have at home. (Yes! Robed it from the "88".) Fate once again took her toll, (What I deserve for cannibalizing the "88") and I drilled through the clutch line to the slave cylinder. Dooh!! Had to wait until Monday for parts store to open, then had to re-use my line ends and they made a "new" line for me. To add insult to injury, the throttle lock wouldn't fit right, so it never got installed. The remainder of the trip was rather uneventful, lots of beautiful sights, snow, lots of people staring at the Rover... a great time! Total distance traveled (using milage charts, and adding numbers on maps) over 4600 miles! Not bad for a 25 year old truck! (Am I dumb? Or what??) Land Rover sightings other than at Rovers North: 1-88 (vermont) 1-109 (Vermont-red, parked behind a barn) 1-Disco in Montreal, and 1-110 in Moab Utah, (#466/500) (I can't wait to get back to Moab Utah. Very beautiful!) and about 12-18 Range Rovers. (One RR owner offered to trade, but I don't think he was really serious.) Trip statistics: (somewhat estimated) ;-) # of vehicles that I passed, around 12 (many of these re-passed me on the level roads.) # of vehicles that passed me: 550. Maximum speed: 80ish? downhill. Minimum speed up steep hills: around 25, 2nd gear, floored. (Actually, on a long hill climb, 3rd was too slow, and 2nd would wind out, so I ended up at around 3/4 throttle in 2nd.) (This didn't make a lot of people very happy with me!) :( And offers to buy the ole gal: 2, one was very serious! Why doesn't anyone want my Disco?? Thanks for the ear... Dave. #=====# #========# ------,___ |___|__\___ |___|__|__\___ |--'| | \_|_ | _ | |_ |} | _ | | |_ |} | _|--+--|_ | "(_)""""(_)" "(_)"""""""(_)" ||_/_\__|__/_\_|} (_) (_) 1971 "88" IIa 1970 "109" IIa 1994 Discovery (for sale $30,500) (Too hard to "draw") #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Tue May 9 10:21:25 1995 Date: Tue, 9 May 95 10:21:25 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: '88 RANGEROVER -- AUTO TRANS SUMP This job is the one maintenance task I usually get the dealer to do, but it can be done at home with a bit of time and patience. The problem is you have to remove the middle chassis crossmember, which unbolts ok but then you need to spread the chassis rails slightly to make it drop out easily. The dealers have a special tool to do this but I imagine you could use a jack and some home made arrangement. You also have to disconnect the exhaust at the manifold and drop it a bit and drop it a bit. In my (factory) workshop manual it makes no mention of any of this, but perhaps they have updated the manual since I got mine. Good luck John Brabyn 89RR From srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Tue May 23 14:09:01 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 14:09:01 -0600 From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Subject: Battery light and Tachometer on `88 RR Dear Clever LR/RR Troubleshooters, Last week on a long drive to the north (Salt Lake City and Yellowstone National Park) a new problem cropped up on my 1988 Range Rover. At night, the temps got down to about 40ish and when I started the truck in the morning, the battery idiot light and the tachometer acted flaky simultaneously. Specifically, the battery light flickered and the tachometer went from jumping up and down to not working at all. A few revs of the engine or shutting the thing off and on again produced a sudden change in tone of the engine and the problem disappeared. Each morning the same thing, not to be repeated throughout the day -- even when the truck had been sitting unused for several hours. A friendly mechanic near Old Faithful tested the battery voltage, the alternator output -- engine off, engine on - with and without lights -- and said everything seemed ducky (of course it wasn't acting up at that moment). I made it back home some 1000 miles with no problems of any kind. It did it again the first morning back in New Mexico, temp 55-60 deg. Any hints as to what the problem might be? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ /==============\ | `63 | IIa | Stephen Brown |______|_______| Geomechanics Department, MS-0751 /___/^^^^^^\___\9 Sandia National Laboratories |oo|(@)##(@)|oo| Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185 | | [####] | | ======%%%%====== email: srbrown@sandia.gov {*}={&&}====={*} {*} {*} ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From NADdMD@aol.com Tue May 23 16:58:48 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 16:58:48 -0400 From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Front axle problems I recently purchased a 67 SIIa which is running adequately but needs help. Whenever I shift into 4wd, either high or low range, I feel and hear an intermittant clunk with a momentary loss of power. It is not speed dependant, gear dependant or terrain dependant. I have replaced the freewheel hubs with minimal improvement. I suspect the U joint of the half axle. A friend suggested a way of testing this: Jack up the front axle. Lock the hubs (4x4) Rotate the wheel If the front propeller shaft doesn't move, the U joint is bad When I tried this, the right side did rotate the propellar shaft but the left side did not. Any suggestions? Nate NADdMD@aol.com Boring, MD (410)429-4964 From harincar@internet.mdms.com Tue May 23 17:06:57 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 17:06:57 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Wing Holes Why is the hole present on the right side wing of some series Rovers? My '66 IIa 88 doesn't have one, and I haven't been able to tell why some models have this and some don't. Is there a cool option that I'm missing? Curious, Tim '66 IIa 88 SW --- tim harincar moore graphic services harincar@internet.mdms.com minneapolis, mn From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 23 95 May EDT 1918 Date: 23 May 95 18:16:24 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Tyres and innertubes (this thread was going on before the Digest spun out of orbit...) Well, apart from the basic rules, such as *not* to fit tubeless ti(y)res on tube (Series) rims and not to run tubes in tubeless tires, the bottom line seems to be: Shit happens - to some more, to others less. I've given tubeless BFGs the most punishing treatment off-road, ripping out chunks of tread, but never had a flat with them, and on a 11,000 km trip overland through the Middle East and up Egypt to Abu Simbel with almost bald Avon Rangemasters on a 109 I had no problems, while another vehicle from our group with the _exact same tires_ (but not so worn) had 10 flats on that journey! If you got bad cards you loose either way... Just another encouraging note from Stefan From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Tue May 23 16:10:03 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 16:10:03 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Wing Holes Tim Harincar writes: >Why is the hole present on the right side wing of some series Rovers? >My '66 IIa 88 doesn't have one, and I haven't been able to tell why some >models have this and some don't. Is there a cool option that I'm missing? Foldaway wing mirrors on the top holes of each wing. One the right side of Series III, about 3-4" diameter, is an air intake for the cabin heater. Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Tue May 23 16:13:51 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 16:13:51 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Tyres and innertubes "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> writes about Rovers, and life: >The bottom line seems to be: Shit happens - to some more, to others less. If you got bad cards you loose either way... Just another encouraging note Amen to that! Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Tue May 23 16:22:46 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 95 16:22:46 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: Battery light and Tachometer on `88 RR Strange you should mention this -- the same problem happened to me a couple of times recently on startup, I think when moisture was in the air. My half- hearted investigation of the circuit diagram indicate the tachometer and ignition warning light are intertwined via a beastly control module black box which seems to have a finger in the pie of all the warning systems etc. Funnily enough, the oil pressure warning light also came on after startup a few days later, causing me to get a new oil pressure sensor. All these things are currently in abeyance, but maybe only temporarily! After years of RR experience, I have developed a cavalier disregard of warning lights sincve the problem always seems to be the sensors and electronics rather than whatever the warning is supposed to be about. However if you get to the bottom of this problem I am willing to reform and try to apply the same solution to my vehicle. Please keep me posted Cheers John Brabyn 89RR From Kelly Minnick Tue May 23 16:55:07 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 95 16:55:07 PDT From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Oil Pressure RE: Oil Pressure I have a '73 USA SIII with a Smith oil pressure gauge. Seems the gauge or the sending unit is not working. Does anyone out there with a working unit know what the resistance should read at 0 psi, idle (20-25 psi) and reved (60 psi)??? Does anyone know the part # for the sending unit??? Is a mechanical replacement better? (trying to keep it stock, but...) Also, the Lucas alt. give the following: 14.2V idle, no load 14.0V reved no load 10.6V idle, lights on... 12.3V reved, lights on. During the loaded procedure, the charge light does not come on. Why? Shouldn't it? What about the Delco single wire 61 amp? What year Chevy is this from? Will it work on the Lucas alt. mount, or do I need the generator mount? Later Kelly Minnick '73 88" Safari & '91 RR Ridgecrest, CA From David John Place Tue May 23 19:15:54 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 19:15:54 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Wing Holes The cool hole on the Land Rover wing is for a "cool" heater. It is the place you suck in -40 degree air and change it to -38 degree air and then place it in the cab of your Land Rover. It sounds like you have the older Smith's heater and not the little improved type. Dave VE4PN From "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> 23 95 May EDT 1920 Date: 23 May 95 20:38:12 EDT From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" <75473.3572@compuserve.com> Subject: Fuel gauges Welcome back digest, I missed ya! Hi all, hope you had a good holiday. Mike Slade... Your fuel gauge is faulty if you have a reading with the tank sender disconnected. The instrument is a milli ammeter and reads the current through the instrument which is varied by the rheostat in the tank sender. For you to have a reading without the sender says that the instrument is passing current , perhaps a short circuit in the cable or a goosed gauge. There are two types of gauge / tank sender unit combinations, the early non regulated types, the sender has a removable lid on it and the later voltage compensated type, these have a 10 v voltage stabilizer mounted on the rear of the instument panel, this dampens the instrument needle action, and the sender has a flat top with one or two spade connections ( petrol -one and diesel 2 ). To test the gauge remove the output wire from the rear, if you have a reading the instrument is faulty, if no reading check the lead to the sender for a short circuit, perhaps the wire has been trapped by the floor or the seat base. Also try to short the lead end to earth, you should have full scale deflection, a full reading. Then look at the sender using an ohmmeter to check the rheostat. If it is the voltage compensated type circa 68 on ? measure the output of the regulator. it should be 10 v with the ignition on. Incidentally the two types of systems can not be mixed and matched without some electrical skills, the resistance of the two senders is different, also beware there are also 24 volt systems. Regards Bill Leacock Limey in exile. From mccauley@hba.trumpet.com.au (Tim McCauley) Wed May 24 10:54:51 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 10:54:51 LOCAL From: mccauley@hba.trumpet.com.au (Tim McCauley) Subject: Chassis Rot Hello again List We've missed you. I posted a while ago asking for some suggestions for dealing with the steering damper on our LWB IIA. There was lots of good feedback from the list and that problem is well in hand. But you know how it is, one thing leads to another. What started out as a attending to a fairly obvious deficiency in the steering has snow- balled. In the process we removed the front wings, ( I use the UK term, in preference to the US fenders or Australian guards in deference to the vehicles origins), to make access easier. With the firewall now exposed it seemed a good time to tackle some rust around the door hinges and at the bottom of the grill panel. Job done. Previous repairs of the plastic variety were made good with real metal and finished with a coat of shiny new paint. "A coat of shiny new paint." Oh no! The rest of the body now screeched out for relief from finger-paint it was previously clothed in. Of course if the body is to be painted properly we really should tackle all those other cosmetic, and as it turned out, not so cosmetic deficiencies. Anyway to cut a long story short ( and relieve another cliche of the boredom of waiting in the wings ), the landy is now stripped to the chassis and undergoing major reconstructive surgery. On looking closely at the chassis we discovered that the area around the rear damper mounts was in dire need of attention. I cut the top of the chassis rail away, replaced it with good metal and then reconstructed the mounts themselves. Job done. However while the top was off the rail it was plain that the dread tin worm had gained a foot hold in the inner layer of the bottom of the chassis in the part arching over the rear axle. Now to the real reason for this posting, apart from a warning not to be to kind to you Landy or it will take advantage of you, the area that is showing signs of rot has a double skin. Is this original or a sign of an earlier repair? The outer skin is tapered at both ends and attached over the actual bottom of the chassis with intermittent four inch runs of weld. I blame the double skin for the onset of rust in this area, aggravated by the fact that the welds are not continuous allowing the ingress of moisture. So do I need to maintain this double skin for strength and if so are there any contra- indications to attaching it with a continuous weld? I am looking at replacing around three feet of the bottom skin. Any hints on preventing distortion in the process would be appreciated also. Tim For Tim And Jenny inc. From Dixon Kenner Tue May 23 21:59:07 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 21:59:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Wing Holes On Tue, 23 May 1995, David John Place wrote: > The cool hole on the Land Rover wing is for a "cool" heater. It is the > place you suck in -40 degree air and change it to -38 degree air and then > place it in the cab of your Land Rover. It sounds like you have the > older Smith's heater and not the little improved type. Dave VE4PN You mean the Kodiak heater that made the -40 degree air a balmy -36 degree air. A $92.50 option in 1963 for those south of the border unless they ordered the "Canadian Arctic Kit" that gave a few other toasty goodies... Rgds, From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Tue May 23 22:30:54 1995 Date: Tue, 23 May 1995 22:30:54 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Sending units Fuel sending units are difficult/impossible to repair. Basically a tiny guage wire (read:hair thin) wrapped around a bakelite insulator, it should read 3 - 35 ohms over the range. Even after cleaning mine up, it still read erratically in bench testing. It may be possible to replace the unit with a Chrysler sending unit, as Chrysler uses the same resistance in many applications. JC Witless lists one for around $7 and it might be possible to adapt one. I'll be posting more Camel Trophy news tomorrow: the US is in sixth place after the first group of special tasks. Poland leads. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From Brian Neill Tiedemann Wed May 24 15:21:18 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 15:21:18 +1000 (EST) From: Brian Neill Tiedemann Subject: salisbury... Hello again, happy to see the return of this unmistakably BRITISH electrical device.... :} To answer Tony's question of yesterday, it is not actually difficult to convert a drum brake 3.54 salisbury to discs. I am making some caliper mount plates which attatch to the back of the backplate flange on the housing ends. These are spaced back from the flange with another plate. All six of the bolts normally used to hold the backplate will now secure the caliper mount (overkill as the caliper itself is only held by two bolts of the same diameter, but at least i know that it will NEVER shift). I am using standard RR calipers onto the standard disc/hub as the bearing inner diameter is the same as the salisbury stub axle, but the drive flange bolt pattern on the RR hub is slightly smaller in overall diameter, whilst still being 5 bolt- typical...same but not same enough to be actually useful (most previous LRs had 6 bolt drive flanges, these are 5, but it seems too hard to make them match other family members like the RR). The immediate fix for this is to use the salisbury drive flange but file (yuk) a small amount from the inside of each hole until the pattern fits... it is not much to remove. If you remove too much or are nervous, then Loctite might provide filler/peace of mind. The brake lines are long enough and with a little GENTLE re-bending will screw right in to the RR caliper. That's it for the discs... The rest is for RR fitting. All other mounting considerations are basically identical: the radius rods need no alteration at all, just bolt them on; the A-frame ball joint as well; shock absorber mounts, however are slightly different on the RR... one goes forward, one backward, wheras a def/county/110 has both forward facing. I have the corresponding mount for the chasis from the county which surrendered its diff, and by adding some holes and crush tubes to the chasis, the shockers are takFrom RICKCRIDER@aol.com Wed May 24 04:16:45 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 04:16:45 -0400 From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Subject: RR Tire Substitute? Am very unhappy with my replacement set of Michelin original equipment type tires (205 R 16) on my 1988 Range Rover. They are about 3 years old with about 28,000 miles. Decent tread remaining. About 98% of those miles are purely road miles. Sidewalls show excessive (seems to me) cracking. One tire just won't hold air. Soapy suds test reveals *many* (10 or more) tiny leaks, even in the sidewalls, and show no obvious punctures. Another tire has apparently broken a belt in the circumfrence (sp?) of the tire, causing extreme shimmy in the front end. Didn't discover this till I replaced all joints in steering arms and replaced the damper only to still have shimmy. Putting the truck on a lift and spinning the tire visually reveals the 'lump' in the tire. Anyone with similar problems? Should I expect Michelin to stand behind this? Any reccomendations for replacements of a different brand? Perhaps a little larger, huskier tire? Truck is used daily and mostly on the road. Help and suggestions appreciated. Thanks. Rick Crider From 24 95 May EDT 1907 Date: 24 May 95 07:08:45 EDT From: Subject: Electronic Ignition Message sent when Majordomo@Dogbolter.fellover Croeso, I have an electronic ignition system fitted to my series 1, this unit is a Boyer Energy Electronic Ignition system, and only costs $20 posted UK (tax free available). The unit retains & converts the points to a low tension switch, which do not burn out, and the gap is not critical, the unit itself becomes an electronic HT switch taking only 10 mins. to fit! The old girl now starts first time, every time (almost), and runs smoother. I used to get through sets of points (which were getting more difficult to get hold of) every 1K miles! the current set has been in for 20K with no sign of pitting, also better MPG. I know of a 101 FC, V8 using this system, and a SII, both with excellent results. The size of the kit is smaller than a packet of cigarettes. Boyer Bransden Electronics Ltd. Tel:01622 30939 Frindsbury House, Cox Lane, They take credit cards Detling, Maidstone, Kent, ME14 3HE England. "Land Rover Owners do it on all fours" Glenn From Alan Richer 24 95 May EDT 1907 Date: 24 May 95 7:42:35 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Re: Wing Holes The wing hole is for a fresh-air heater, a la Kodiak Mk. III or some such. My 64 SIIa has one (missing the connection to the panel thanks to the mouth breather of a previous owner). From jpappa01@InterServ.Com Wed May 24 06:17:37 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 95 06:17:37 PDT From: jpappa01@InterServ.Com Subject: Re: ARC 1995 Hi All: Glad to see the list back up! Our merry little band is off to Lincoln today for the `95 ARC rally. Anyone who is going to be in the Lincoln area/rally please swing by the BSROA club stand and heave a pint with us!! Should be a great time. I'll report upon my return. Cheerz Jim - now completely mad... and loving it! From rwegner@fimage.synapse.net (Richard Wegner) Wed May 24 09:30:58 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 09:30:58 -0500 From: rwegner@fimage.synapse.net (Richard Wegner) Subject: PTO units Hi All, It's nice to have the digest back again. I have been busy sealing the transmission up again so the oil will stay in! Replaced all gaskets and seals I could find, and put new nuts (with loctite) on the bolts holding the bell housing on to the transmission, so it will not work loose and starting leaking in the near future, I hope. Now I just need to get the whole thing back in the Rover, hopefully in the next day or so. Meanwhile all this talk of PTO units, has whetted my appetite. I have been thinking for some time of adding a PTO unit to the back of the Rover. I have followed the discussion on transfer case bottom PTO units with interest. I would like to find out more about PTO accessories and possible sources of same, so would appreciate any leads. John, did your family really nickname your Rover "FOLLY"? Better buy another one now or else it will always be known as "FOLLY". Later........Richard From Pierce Reid 24 95 May EDT 1909 Date: 24 May 95 09:26:50 EDT From: Pierce Reid Subject: Gun box price Group: Can anyone in the UK look up the price of a LR part for me in the UK? The U.S. Price on this is outrageous ($405) It is a Genuine LR part number: STC 8018L It's a gunbox for a D90 (I finally found one!!!!!) Thanks, R. Pierce Reid From "Richard Lucking" Wed May 24 14:50:19 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 14:50:19 GB/EIRE From: "Richard Lucking" Subject: Weber carbs - and economy! I have a SIIa SWB 2.25 petrol that has been fitted with A weber type 34 ICH carb at some point. I understand that these were fitted for "economy", I am getting about 16mpg around town now. Does anyone know what I should be getting? It seems to be running a bit rich lately, with some black smoke when reved. I can adjust it myself, but as it is not a standard carb, is not in the manual, does anyone know how to do it, I don't want to ruin the settings, as it runs alright otherwise! I saw in this months LRO that I should change back to the origional carb, anyone got any pros/cons? Some previous owner seems to have fitted a fuel magnet - "Power Plus" do these actually work? I am *very* tempted to remove it! Thanks for any advice Cheers Tricky --------------------------------------------------------------------- Richard Lucking phone:(0161) 224 6641 (Term) email:bu063@ist2.co.umist.ac.uk (Flat 48) or: se063@sna.co.umist.ac.uk Life is a Sexually Transmitted Disease, invariably fatal Disclaimer: All opinions are my own, or so i've been told.... ===================================================================== From "Larry Rubens" Wed May 24 07:54:02 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 07:54:02 -0800 From: "Larry Rubens" Subject: Rover Mechanics in Michigan Does anyone know of knowledgeable Land Rover mechanics, dealers or cognoscenti in Northern Michigan? The Northern part of the lower peninsula preferably. E-mail any replies directly to me at lmr@netcom.com to avoid cluttering the list. I can submit a summary if requested. TIA! Regards ...Larry Rubens From Donald Abbot Wed May 24 16:56:25 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 16:56:25 +0200 (GMT+0200) From: Donald Abbot Subject: Re: THANX and here we come AFRICA On Tuesday Barry Dudley wrote: > Subject: THANX and here we come AFRICA Good luck. I hope you enjoy your trip. From Charlie Wright Wed May 24 15:44:46 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 15:44:46 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Economy Magnets? I've seen these in all sorts of rags, and being a scientist, I scoffed... But does anyone have practical or even theoretical experience with them? Honestly, I've never even understood what _contrived_ physical principle these claim to work on... let alone tried one. Fuel is non-polar for goodness sake! No dipole moment = very little magnetic interaction...particularly from a fixed magnet... now perhaps if you had a NMR coil around each piston ;-) "Please remove all credit cards and watches before operating this vehicle." Personally, I'm under the impression that they claim to give more power and/or economy => The user adds the device and then steps on the pedal to find out if he has more power, and discovers that the engine had more guts than previously realised... but the economy drops, user calls the mfg. of the 'PowerMiser' and is told that he gets power OR economy. User then panics, uses a light foot, and gets better economy... So they may work, after a fashion. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From "Russell G. Dushin" Wed May 24 11:31:39 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 95 11:31:39 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Economy Magnets? > I've seen these in all sorts of rags, and being a scientist, I scoffed... > But does anyone have practical or even theoretical experience with them? none. > Honestly, I've never even understood what _contrived_ physical principle > these claim to work on... let alone tried one. Fuel is non-polar for [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > a NMR coil around each piston ;-) "Please remove all credit cards and > watches before operating this vehicle." But the impurities in gasoline may not neccessarily be.....then again, just 'cause they've got a dipole moment doesn't mean they'll be congregating around that chunk 'o magnet you just added to your tank- its contents sloshing about and all. Metal filings, OK, but a trace of some heterocyclic contaminant (upon which the attractive force is miniscule).......naaaaaaaaaah. Probably just end up buggering up yer fuel sender. If you pay enough for it, the placebo effect is bound to prove me wrong! rgds, rd/nigel From Mike Rooth Wed May 24 16:29:14 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 95 16:29:14 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Economy Magnets? Agreed.About the only method I can think of to test them is to install one while the owner isnt looking. But...users do say they work.But not so well on a diesel. Reminds me of the comment an old mechanic friend of mine made.On the subject of souping up a Mini.He reckoned the cheapest way of suoping it up was to install a weaker throttle return spring.He even did it several times for customers.They were *ever* so pleased with the result! Cheers Mike Rooth From gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Wed May 24 09:27:49 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 09:27:49 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: Wing Holes Tim, regarding your wing-hole question: >Why is the hole present on the right side wing of some series Rovers? >My '66 IIa 88 doesn't have one, and I haven't been able to tell why some >models have this and some don't. Is there a cool option that I'm missing? More of a "warm" option, actually. Later (I think starting in '68 in the U.S.) Series IIAs and Series IIIs have, as original equipment, fresh-air heaters that use that hole in the right wing (if left-hand drive) as an air intake for the heater blower. The blower assembly is mounted inside the wing, with the heater core mounted in the passenger-side footwell, with an air-distribution box across the bottom of the dash panel. RHD LRs have it on the left. This heater is a *massive* improvement over the round or flat Smiths heaters which were standard in older Land-Rovers. But earlier Series IIs and IIAs, such as yours, had an option of an even more powerful fresh air heater, the famed "Kodiak" which, I understand, was made in Canada. I have not heard any confirmation as to whether or not it is still available new. Rovers north sells another brand, the Mansfield, which is reputed to be even more powerful than the Kodiak. Incidentally, the installation of Kodiak heaters (at least I think they were all Kodiaks => someone correct me if I'm wrong) seems to have lent itself to considerable creative license over the years. I have two old Series II 88" station wagons that have these heaters and each has a different arrangement for its fresh-air intake. One (a '61) has the hole in the outside of the left wing, as you have questioned. The other (a '60) has the hole in the inside panel of the wing, in the front, in the radiator breakfast area, with a long duct running inside the wing from the blower to the intake hole. A friend who lives nearby has a '65 Series IIA 88" station wagon with one of these heaters and his has a duct from the blower that stays in the engine compartment and takes its air from the right-hand slot of the grille, to the right of the radiator. Interesting, eh? Would be interesting to do some sort of test to see which works the best... Cheers, Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, North California, USA Several old Land-Rovers and other dubiously collectible vehicles (707)485-7220 Home; (707)463-4265 Work From harincar@internet.mdms.com Wed May 24 11:42:03 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 11:42:03 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Re: Wing Holes Granville wrote: > Incidentally, the installation of Kodiak heaters (at least I think they were > all Kodiaks => someone correct me if I'm wrong) seems to have lent itself to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > right of the radiator. Interesting, eh? Would be interesting to do some > sort of test to see which works the best... Bingo! Thats *exactly* the way mine is set up (a '66 station wagon). I *thought* I had the Kodiak heater, from the descriptions I heard. No visible core (its buried in the passenger footwell), etc. Boy, I'll tell you what - If the Kodiak is the "high output" or "high performace" heater, I feel really, really sorry for anyone in a cold climate with a Smith. I've considered adding a heater in the rear a la 109 or, gasp, the Toyota FJ40 which had two heaters. The P.O. reportedly had the core cleaned out before I bought it (and I have a reciept for some work), but in weather less than 20 degrees it stays only marginally warmer. Maybe I'll take another look before winter to see that I'm getting max output. Tim '66 IIa 88 SW --- tim harincar moore graphic services harincar@internet.mdms.com minneapolis, mn From Ray Harder Wed May 24 11:56:32 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 11:56:32 -0500 (CDT) From: Ray Harder Subject: steering wheel stickys -- solved... The black sticky stuff that comes off of the steering wheel in humid weather was discussed in past threads. My solution is quite classy: MOSS motors (800-235-6954) part number 222-315 "Steering wheel cover black" $24.95 US plus $7.10 US shipping and handling. This was designed for 17 inch steering wheels as found on the AH-3000 machines. Black leather with a lace. The instructions say "tight is right". Took about 1 hour. The leather feels and looks great. I think the Rover runs faster, too. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Ray Harder Columbia, Missouri 314-882-2000 - 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental) - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project) - 69 SIIa 88 (parts) - 87 RR (wife's) --------------------------------------------------------------------- From Charlie Wright Wed May 24 18:30:00 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 18:30:00 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: steering wheel stickys -- solved... > The black sticky stuff that comes off of the steering wheel > MOSS motors (800-235-6954) part number 222-315 > "Steering wheel cover black" > $24.95 US plus $7.10 US shipping and handling. There is a black leather cover from Paddock (?) or one of the LRO Intl. dealers, which is also designed to fit the big wheel. It's priced at about 9 pounds ($12). I can't vouch for quality or durability, but I think I might order one. Charlie From harincar@internet.mdms.com Wed May 24 12:57:55 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 12:57:55 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Re: steering wheel stickys -- solved... In the US, try a company called WheelSkins. Custom made wheel covers, for the 19" wheel of my IIa it was $32.65 for the leather cover. Send a check, with the O.D. of the wheel, plus the diameter of the tube from the outside edge to the high point of a finger bump/grip and they;ll make it for you. WheelSkins 2821 10th Street Berkely, CA 94710 800.755.2128 P.S. I don't own one of their covers, yet. I just got this info recently but haven't done anything with it. I also don't work for WheelSkins or own any of their stock. Tim '66 Iia 88 SW --- tim harincar moore graphic services harincar@internet.mdms.com minneapolis, mn From Marcus Tooze Wed May 24 16:34:28 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 16:34:28 -0500 From: Marcus Tooze Subject: 1970 109 wiring harness for sale In good shape, ordered from the UK but I don't need it now. It is the main harness from the engine back. $50 plus shipping. Marcus From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Wed May 24 14:38:31 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 95 14:38:31 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: Battery light and Tachome... The black box you refer to was also suggested to me by the local service guy as the other possibility -- but costs $200-odd to replace. He suggested that, if that is the problem (sounds like it is in your case) you can disconnece it and still have the low oil pressure light work by effectively bypassing the logic unit. I haven't looked closely enough to see exactly how to do this, but it sounds like a reasonable solution. The box is under the dash on the driver's side, and I think is literally a black box. Cheers John Brabyn 89 RR From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Wed May 24 14:49:25 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 95 14:49:25 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: RR Tire Substitute? Haven't had the same problem, but did have one tire that in its late life developed a series of pinhole leaks in the tread that were too numerous to fix and meant a weekly topup with air was needed. However my tires have all seen hard off-road beating and the one in question was about worn out anyway. If I had your problem, I'd definitely have a go at getting the tires replaced for for free. I haven't tried alternative tires, though I've seen 225 75 R16 used, almost the same outside diameter and no doubt more commonly available. However among tire people I've talked to, they all have great respect for the original Michelins and especially their strength. Cheers John Brabyn 89RR From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Wed May 24 17:58:37 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 17:58:37 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Logs After the first set of special tasks, the US team of Jim Swett (30, of Lebanon, CT) and Daphne Green (33, Ross, CA) are tied with the French in sixth place. Poland leads, followed by Greece, South Africa, the Czech Republic and Italy. Monday, May 22nd - The Camel Trophy convoy crossed the border into Mexico at La Union and were greeted by an impromptu party staged by the townsfolk. "After two days of flogging ourselves on the special tasks and the prospect of driving all night, the chance for a taco and a cold drink was not one to be missed," said Peter Bakos of Hungary. Luxuries did not last long, for five km down the road, the convoy pulled off the tarmac onto an old logging road, bound for Rio Azul on the Guatamala border. Even though the reconaissance team had been through 9 months ago, downed trees and dense scrub blocked the route. Teams worked through the night to clear the way, arriving at Tres Bandieros in the wee hours of the morning; they managed to get all of three hours of sleep. Tuesday, May 23rd - At daybreak, the trek to Rio Azul continued. Once there, the teams toured the remains of 50 meter high temples before departing for a two day mapping expedition of a nearby site that was only discovered in 1988. Led by Canadian archaeological expert Rick Bronson who discovered the site, the participants had to hike about 8 km to the yet unnamed Mayan city near Rio Ixcan. Carrying 20 kg backpacks, this trek took about three hours in the tropical heat and humidity. Half of the group, however, got lost in the dense undergrowth and spent another frustrating two hours to find the destination. Once there, the team will spend two days mapping the 1 km square site. Because of the difficulty reaching the site, Bronson had not been back since his discovery. Almost immediately, the team found the main plaza of the settlement, estimated to have once been a city of 5,000. Teams will work in round-the-clock shifts, some mapping the site, others beginning exploratory excavations of some of the temples. Already, small artifacts dating from 750 AD have been found; unfortunately, so has evidence of recent grave robbers. Because of the location of the site astride the Mexico/Guatamala border, represenatives from both countries are supervising the work. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Wed May 24 17:58:48 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 17:58:48 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Overheating Steve ge Guire (JSSA@ix.netcom.com) write about overheating problems on a RN rebuilt engine with less that 1,000 miles on the clock. Could this be the "genuine" head gaskets mentioned here several months ago. Mark called me up and took me to task for printing the warning about supposedly defective genuine headgaskets in the last issue of The Gearbox"; he offered to write an article explaining the whole affair. Seems the Rover engineers planned the back three pistons to have smaller holes over the valves. I dunno; a friend here takes the head gaskets and punches out the holes to where he thinks they oughta be and he's *never* had an overheating problem. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From Sanna@aol.com Wed May 24 18:28:00 1995 Date: Wed, 24 May 1995 18:28:00 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: RR Tire Substitute? >Am very unhappy with my replacement set of Michelin original equipment type tires (205 R 16) on my 1988 Range Rover. Another tire has apparently broken a belt in the circumfrence (sp?) of the tire, causing extreme shimmy in the front end. Didn't discover this till I replaced all joints in steering arms and replaced the damper only to still have shimmy.< Rick - My '89 was the same way. It really wallowed around the road. I fiddled with the stearing adjustments, replaced all of the steering bushings, etc. I almost dropped a grand on a swaybar kit, only to find when I blew out one of the sidewalls hitting a curb and replaced the front tires that all my handling problems miraculously disapeared. From caloccia@land-rover.team.net (Bill Caloccia) Thu May 25 01:52:10 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 01:52:10 +0100 From: caloccia@land-rover.team.net (Bill Caloccia) Subject: Re: Disco tire pressures >I've got a question about the recommended tire pressures for on-road travel >in Disco's. According to the manual, front tires should be inflated to 26 >psi and rear to 34 psi. The tyre chart on the wall at my local tyre shop recommended 1.8 bar front and 2.5 bar rear for pre-8 range rovers.... so you're not alone Cheers, --bill caloccia@Team.Net 1 3 dl OD L "Land Rover's first, because |--|--+ o | | Land Rovers last." 2 4 R ul N H '72 Range Rover From caloccia@land-rover.team.net (Bill Caloccia) Thu May 25 01:52:18 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 01:52:18 +0100 From: caloccia@land-rover.team.net (Bill Caloccia) Subject: Re: Baby Rattles >My SRIIA 88" has a nasty rattle...loose-metal sounding thing...when I'm >going up a hill or the engine is straining. Sound's like it is coming from >the back of the engine. It is a new noise...not one of the usual Rover Well considering the correctness of my recent audio-based diagnosis, I won't hazard to guess. :-) Cheers, --bill caloccia@Team.Net 1 3 dl OD L "Land Rover's first, because |--|--+ o | | Land Rovers last." 2 4 R ul N H '72 Range Rover From caloccia@land-rover.team.net (Bill Caloccia) Thu May 25 01:52:58 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 01:52:58 +0100 From: caloccia@land-rover.team.net (Bill Caloccia) Subject: Re: flakey oil pressure warning lamp/sender circuits Oil pressure is one of those things that, when it does go, it really sucks. Club racers often only have two warning lamps, a big orange one for the rev limiter and a big red one for oil pressure. If you're at the top of your rev's then you're probably not getting much additional power, if you've got no oil pressure, you've got a few thousand revolutions before your motor stops, probably permanently, of course, that would happen in a matter of seconds at speed. Now, if you like the location of the stock guage and indicator, then it would be best to directly wire the indicator lamp to the pressure switch, and the stock guage as well. If there are still problems then I'd be mighty tempted to replace the sender and guage with either Stewart Warner or VDO components. If you can replace the stock guage, then go for a Stewart Warner or VDO, and get their senders and replace the whole lot. --------------------- PS the flat tyre was due to a chaffed tube, due to some garbage in theFrom Mike Rooth Thu May 25 8:59:52 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 95 8:59:52 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Baby Rattles [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)] > 1 3 dl OD L "Land Rover's first, because > |--|--+ o | | Land Rovers last." > 2 4 R ul N H '72 Range Rover Sounds like the exhaust pipe to me...... Cheers Mike Rooth From Charlie Wright Thu May 25 11:44:07 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 11:44:07 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Swivel housings. Boy am I full of it this morning... I have been waiting 4 weeks for a back-ordered chrome ball to replace the pitted one on my axle. I remember now a thread about these way back before I cared. I seem to remember _someone_ talking about restoring the balls (blasting and painting?) My thought yesterday was: Why can't I just media-blast the old one (I have two spares) and have it re-chromed. Surely this would cost less than the 55 pounds for a new one (which I can't get anyway...) Would it not be smooth enough? Too much change in size/surface. Surely the surface isn't structural, just a sealing surface? Are new seals (I have two) tolerant of slightly imperfect but smooth surfaces? Advice from the knowing? Cheers, Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From Charlie Wright Thu May 25 11:38:36 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 11:38:36 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Dynamo -> Alternator I saved all the messages about this conversion, but most are for using Delco and similar American units, I'd rather go Bosch for availability here.. My dynamo packed up last night (or the control box), so I have an excuse to make the change. Questions: Has anyone found a good Bosch fit? Will I need the Series III bracket, or is there one that likes the old Dynamo bracket? Any other warnings/hints (I did this on my last 109 with a Lucas, and it was fine, but the patching 'round the control box was an ugly piece of wiring) Cheers, Charlie From Steven M Denis Thu May 25 09:59:00 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 09:59:00 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis Subject: Heaters Kodiak Heaters....oh boy..... There're at least 3 different Kodiak heaters out there... The early type has the air intake next to the grill, a long hose connects it to the blower. Inside the vehicle is the heater core..open the little doors and peek if you want.."Jay! Is there heat behind door # 1?" (Totally lost on non USA folks...I hope..) I've seen this heater on vehicle up to 1966..... The Kodiak mark 3 heater has the hole in the wing with a grill but no bezel on the outside of the wing...the heater core sits in a box vertically under the right wing..there is an air pipe on the housing with an air valve (throttle) and a short piece of hose attaches to the wing hole...the blower is part of the heater core box and pulls the air throught the core and tosses it into the car..in the car is a simple duct that points to the left and has a lever on the side to deflect the air to the cab or windshield (screen) there is a small "door' on the right to help warm the passenger's knees....I've seen this heater starting in 1964... I believe the Arctic Kodiak is this same heater with the intake air ducted through an elbow from the interior of the cab... A Kodiak mark 3 *will* heat a land rover...if it's output is not overwhelmed by drafts..... *IF* you have low output...check the heater valve...it has a plastic drum that turns when the lever on the valve is turned to open...guess what? the shaft turns inside the valve and it only opens a *wee* bit..instant no heat...If someone had the core cleaned due to low output this is normally where the trouble really was. also, the air valve *must* be open...it leaks enough when closed to make you *think* you have heat....but when the valve is open things blow around in the cab....... The late 2A heater is a smiths type it has the core in a box on the top of the right footwell..it's flat against the slope on top..there is a blower motor with a hose going to the core and another going to the wing...the hole in the wing is smaller than the Mark 3 and has a small galvanized ring on the outside....inside the cab there is a long crinkle finished duct with little white plastic handle to open the door on the drivers end and a left and right slidie thing that says "floor-----screen" to move the air up and down. started in 1967 methinks.the series 3 heater is just a fancy version of this (with a larger core starting in 1974..) man, it's *hot* in here... steve..... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 296 " "-1964 109 Pickup Fulton, New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13069 From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Thu May 25 08:04:37 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 95 08:04:37 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: 109 stuff needed... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: 109 stuff needed... Hello all, I am searching for a "placard" (where the vehicle ID is located) for a 1970 IIa 109. It would need to be blank, so I could add the number to it. Anyone know of any sources? Also, I need shocks for a 1970 109 S/W safari top. Does anyone have any recommendations? How about part numbers? Nobody seems to list the "109" in their catalogs. I've tried several places. Lastly, (for now) how important are the "axle straps" that limit downward axle travel? Each of mine has one side missing or broken. Should I replace before doing any serious off road travel? Thanks for your responses! Dave... P.S. It's *GREAT* having the list back! I was having serious withdrawal symptoms! (What do you mean I'm CRANKY? I'LL SHOW YOU CRANKY!!!) ;-) #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From "David McKain" Thu May 25 11:26:47 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 11:26:47 EDT From: "David McKain" Subject: Recent Expeditions Just a little to fill in everyone on a recent expedition. The BRLRC held a meet ouside Parkersburg,WV a few weekends back. A lot of offroading fun was had by all. I owe a certian Steve Tipsword from Virginia a lot of thanks for pulling the used, unbroken, half-shaft for a Series LR from the back of his RR. I snapped one of mine out near the hub when I dropped the clutch in a mud hole. Iit only took 10 minutes to pull the old shaft out and replace it with the used one. "Nice design" I thought until the following week I snapped the other half-shaft at the differential. Rover up, half-shafts out, differential out, hammer and screwdriver, strip an old rear axle, half-shaft already scavenged, strip another axle, eureka, diff back in, lots of RTV, shafts back in, feed with 90 wt, happy rover. Back to the expedition. It was a lot of fun watching 1995 Range Rovers get stuck in the mud bogs. Even more fun to watch a gentleman knock off the fron spoiler in the process of getting out. Of the 6 or so vehicles to try only the Series LR's and a RR with a locking diff were able to make it unassisted through some horrific WV red clay. In addition to LR vehicles we were joined by a pair of SS Kubelwagens. I believe that of the almost thirty vehicles there that my half-shaft was the only drivetrain-engine related failure although a lot of paint was left on the trail. I can hardly wait until I can go out and try to break my LR in Virginia in a few weeks. David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA From William Caloccia Thu May 25 11:45:42 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 95 11:45:42 -0400 From: William Caloccia Subject: I hadn't seen references to this page previously http://sun1.bham.ac.uk/D.Hejcman.mes/ROVER/rover.html Looks like it is still under construction, but is a real fine set of pages. -B From rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose) 25 1995 May GMT 1915 Date: 25 May 1995 15:51:52 GMT From: rsrose@cco.caltech.edu (Randolph Rose) Subject: Door lock needed Cylinder needed for a door lock. The cylinder on the door lock for my 107 station wagon has given up the ghost. Does anyone have one they would be willing to part with? The type of lock was used from Series I through mid '60's. It's the type attached to the door handle, with a hook cam that engages a small post attached to the door skin. I just need the cylinder; the latch is fine. Matching key is not necessary. I can use the cylinder from any junk or broken latch of the right type. Many thanks, Randy Rose From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Thu May 25 09:20:21 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 95 09:20:21 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: 109 parts... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: 109 parts... Walter and Alan, Thanks for the responses! Walt, yes, I have used British Pacific. Ordered a gas cap for the 109 at $9 (Around $3 cheaper than Rovers North.) and received it in 2 days! Good service I'd say. Alan, thanks for the tip, but the shocks are bad. Wish it were just bushings, but... I'm currently waiting for their price sheet (in print shop). Just hoping for some part numbers or something I can get locally. BTW, they also have the placards for the 88's but are checking on availability for the 109's. I should hear from them Today or Tomorrow. Thanks for the reply! P.S. The placard is because mine's missing, and the frame number on the right front-front spring mount (at least that's where it on my "88") is unreadable. I just bought it, and need it to transfer title to Arizona (from New York). This would save me $350 or so for a "bonded title". Any idea where to find the serial number? (If it exists anywhere else. ) Is this where your 109's "frame" serial number is located? #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From BobandSueB@aol.com Thu May 25 15:24:29 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 15:24:29 -0400 From: BobandSueB@aol.com Subject: Re: temp guage wrong I lost the original note about this, but I think I may have a valid idea about the problem so here's my 2 cents worth. The temp guage thatgoes to red soon after start up and idle, A possibility could be this, the wire to the switch on top right front of the head that turns on the light for cold start warning, might be swapped with the wire for the temp. sender at the thermostat housing.(front right almost top). this would cause the symptom as described. good luck, Bob Bernard LROA ,NA Membership. Paradise, CA. From Dixon Kenner Thu May 25 15:37:21 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 15:37:21 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Update on OVLR Birthday Party information. 12th Annual OVLR Birthday Party From jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Thu May 25 12:45:46 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 12:45:46 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ? Since I'm substantially tearing down my 109 to restore it I'm seriously considering installing a new wiring harness while the beast is in pieces anyway. The existing wiring is almost certainly original pre '67 (probably '65) cloth wrapped and looks to have the potential for many loose or excess electrons (me thinks Uncle Joe would find a happy home here). The vehicle is not currently running so I don't know the actual status of the electrics. I wanted to get any input anyone has on this operation. I'm not sure (haven't checked/figured it out yet) if the vehicle was ever converted from + to - ground (its a suffix B). For now I'm assuming its still on + ground (no alternator installed at any rate). The following questions come to mind: Has anyone out there successfully changed harnesses? Does it create more or fewer electrical problems than putting up with existing components :) ? (bearing in mind the LR corollary of Murphy's law). Are there any points in the wiring harness change that are particularly torturous/difficult for a DIY operation? Any special tools/equipment required (same as above I guess)? If I convert to - ground (probable) I see two options: 1. Install a + ground harness and perform the conversion post installation. Why would I want to do this? 2. Install a - ground harness. What other conversions changes will be incurred? Any recommendations on the best alternative? I suppose this assumes that there is an actual difference between the two harnesses (they are listed under different part numbers with marginally different costs). Maybe they're identical? Dare I ask, is there a non-genuine part wiring harness or approach to replacement that is superior? As usual, all replies appreciated. Cheers, Jeremy Bartlett From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu May 25 14:05:56 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 14:05:56 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Aluminum Self-Etching Primer Rovers, As you all know, the difficulty in painting aluminum is preparing the metal to accept paint. The Eastwood Company (800-345-1178) in Malvern, Pennsylvania, USA makes a one-step self etching primer for aluminum, steel and stainless steel, and only sells by mail-order. Call them for a catalog, they have a multitude of other paints and paint products of interest as well. Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu May 25 14:36:16 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 14:36:16 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement Jeremy Bartlett writes about replacing his wiring for a 109 IIA: >I suppose this assumes that there is an actual difference between the two harnesses (they are listed under different part numbers with marginally different costs). Maybe they're identical? There are at least 3 harnesses in a Series Rover, plus a few cables, some parts of which are easier to install than others. There is the Main Harness, almost completely in the engine compartment and dash; the Frame & Rear Crossmember Harness, leading to back and a bit more difficult to get to; and the Engine Harness, withjust a few wires. Looking at the wonderfully illustrative Rovers North catalog, they are asking $255 ($275 for Pos Earth), $65, and $39 respectively. RN doesn't even offer these as "genuine parts", and notes that the harnesses are wrapped in PVC, with cloth braid by "special request" (RRIIIIGHT!). Bring your new harnesse(s) to the Lucas Challenge! I'm certain Joe himself will lead the boys in replacing the harnesses for you!!! :) Michael Carradine Carradine Studios Tel.500-442-6500 Architect Architecture Development Planning Pgr.510-945-5000 NCARB RIBA PO Box 99, Orinda, CA 94563 USA cs@crl.com Unimog 4x4 WWW page at http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From Jim Russell Thu May 25 14:49:55 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 14:49:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Russell Subject: Re: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ? You don't want to install a negative earth wiring harness!!! If you do replace the harnesses you will almost certainly want to stick with the positive earth version or else you could encounter problems with the placement of some equipment, etc. First, converting to negative earth is really pretty simple. About all it really consists of is swiching leads on a few things like the instruments. Most stuff like lights don't care what the polarity is. But, have a few spare fuses handy!!! Jim Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) From Alan Richer 25 95 May EDT 1917 Date: 25 May 95 17:50:12 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: More on paint...help! I am at present in the throes of trying to get an authentic Rover bronze Green mixed at my local paint store. I would go wth original lacquer, but with lacquers becoming illegal in the US as of August I was looing toward the future and hoping to be able to go with an acrylic or urethane enamel. Also, are there any other names for this color? My local paintshop is trying to tell me that it's also called "Arden Green". Not in my manuals it isn't... but it ain't the first time I've been wrong. Any and all assistance is welcome. Thanks.... -ajr From Spenny@aol.com Thu May 25 19:16:41 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 19:16:41 -0400 From: Spenny@aol.com Subject: painting all, How much paint do i need to buy to cover my 88? the wheels & top will be limestone, the rest poppy red, I dont need to paint the interior, but some leftover for touch up would be nice thanks. spenny From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Thu May 25 16:34:46 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 95 16:34:46 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Failed emissions, need help... FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Failed emissions, need help... Hello all you wonderfully intelligent wizards in "netland"! (Buttering you up for the kill...) I need a bit of help passing the new emissions for a 1971 Land Rover IIa "88" 4 cyl. petrol. My results were: HC at load: (500 allowable) 159 recorded - Passed HC at idle: (500 allowable) 271 recorded - Passed CO at load: (5.5 allowable) 5.67 recorded - FAILED CO at idle: (5.5 allowable) 5.58 recorded - FAILED The truck runs well, although idle speed may be a bit high. Where should I look to solve this??? Does anyone have the tune-up spec's for this? I have NO information. Point gap=? Dwell=? Timing=? Idle speed=? Plug gap=? # turns for fuel mixture=? (I think it's a webber) (it's not solex or rochester) Would this information be the same as a '70 109? Thanks a lot for your help!! #=====# #========# -------,___ |___|__\___ |___|__|__\___ |--' | | \_|_ | _ | |_ |} | _ | | |_ |} | _ |--+--|_ | "(_)""""(_)" "(_)"""""""(_)" ||_/_\___|__/_\_|} (_) (_) 1971 "88" IIa 1970 "109" IIa 1994 Discovery (for sale $30,500 obo) (Too hard to "draw") #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Thu May 25 18:22:20 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 18:22:20 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: 109 Wiring Harness Replacement ? > The existing wiring is almost certainly original pre '67 > (probably '65) cloth wrapped and looks to have the potential for many [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > Cheers, > Jeremy Bartlett I have a friend who bought a Dormobile "parts kit." It had been converted to a Chevy six. The PO had started to rewire by cutting (with a hack saw) the main harness in two places, where it goes through the fire wall. He was doing this to solve mysterious electrical problems. I spliced all the cut wires back together, and trimmed off all the cloth jacket. There was one burned wire inside the harness, caused by poor workmanship for the engine conversion. He has had NO more electrical problems due to wiring. The Lucas wiring inside the old cloth jacket on your Rover is better than anything you could replace it with, except a new, OEM harness. Just trim off the old cloth jacket and clean the harness with 409 or Simple Green. Replace any wires that are burned or worn through, there won't be (m)any. Put wire tyes on the harness evey few inches. Clean the connections with a wire brush and WD. Your truck is probably + earth. It is easy to change it to - earth. Install a GM Delco alternator and turn the battery around. I can FAX you a copy of the wiring for the alternator. Everything will work just fine, except the ameter will read backwards, but you can turn that around if it bothers you. Most "Joe Lucas" problems are caused by the people who try to fix things they don't understand. Regards, Bill G. From growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Thu May 25 18:30:12 1995 Date: Thu, 25 May 1995 18:30:12 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: More on paint...help! > I am at present in the throes of trying to get an authentic Rover bronze > Green mixed at my local paint store. I would go wth original lacquer, > but with lacquers becoming illegal in the US as of August I was looing > toward the future and hoping to be able to go with an acrylic or urethane > enamel. Here's a quick cut and paste of more answers than you wanted. R, bg any DuPont paint jobber should be able to mix up Rover colors in single quart cans. (If anyone has any other #'s, pass them along.) Bronze green 38500 Mid grey 38501 Sand 38502 Marine blue 38503 Pastel green 38504 Limestone 38505 Poppy red 38506 Burnt grey 38508 Davos white 38514 Mexican brown 38519 Cameron green 38520 Almond yellow 38521 Sand ACF/004 or 26291 Almond yellow 38521 "camel yellow" SandGlow, it is also a old Jaguar color For "DuLux" alkyd enamle, append a "D" to the paint color number. Add an "L" of laquer, or "A" for Centari acrylic enamel. Other part numbers: Dulux hardener 77s Aluminum cleaner 225s Aluminum conversion coating 226s "Variprime" two-part primer 615s Engine enamel "Detroit Diesel Alpine Green" #225 (made by Tempo) Automotive paints are quite sensitive to temperatures: use the following thinners/retarders. If you must paint at higher temps, add an anti-wrinkle agent: DuLux Thinner Temp Range Centari Thinner Temp Range #8508 below 65 F #8034 below 70 F #3812 65-75 F #8022 70-85 F #3864 70-80 F #8093 above 85 F #8522 above 80 F The DuLux cannot be clear-coated, though the Centari can be protected in this fashion. DuLux can be mixed for brush application (like for roofs) rather than spray applicatio, though. DuPont "Corlar" two-part epoxy is another primer alternative. As it is intended for aircraft, it is only available in gallon cans, and in grey. Better living through chemistry... I wasn't trying to sell AB's paint, but only thought the color names might be of interest. Right you are on being able to buy it anywhere, and here are the match numbers, courtesy Rovers North. Don't blame me if you go out and get 10 gallons and it don't match. I got some Dupont acrylic enamel to paint my fire wall with this number and it dosn't match anything, but that's just because the thing is so fadded and oxidized. I'm sure these are as correct as you can get. And a lovley red it is. Dupont Centari Ditzler Glasurit Limestone 38505A 46251 Marine Blue 38503A 16514 ROV504 Poppy Red 38506AH ROV303 Light (Pastel) Green 38504A ROV605 Sand ACF/004 or 26291 Bronze Green 38500A 46451 LEY637 Arctic White Regards, Bill G. Taken from the Rovers North newsletter (Spring '91), the paint codes for popular Series Land Rover colors are: RM Supermax Ditzler Glasurit Dupont Centauri Limestone RV-040 46251 38505-A Marine Blue RV-017 16514 ROV-504 38503-A Poppy Red RV-029 ROV-303 38506-AH Pastel Green RV-028 ROV-605 38504-A Bronze Green RV-027 46451 LEY-637 38500-A Some colors require white primer, others grey. From "R. Pierce Reid, OH" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> 25 95 May EDT 1921 Date: 25 May 95 21:38:32 EDT From: "R. Pierce Reid, OH" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Stupid D90 Question # 47/misc. Has anyone tried to fit leather gaiters on a D90? Does LR make a set? My Series LR's always benefitted immensely from gaiters and I would like to put them on the D90 while the swivel balls are still shiny and unpitted. Anyone done this yet? Is there an LR part number? Am I sounding like Taylor? Also... for those upset with the black sticky stuff on the steering wheels... a recent issue of LRO magazine (April, I think) has a short piece in it about a product used especially to restore steering wheels. It's a heavy black epoxy enamel paint that totally restores the wheel to new condition. Perhaps someone who subscribes (I stFrom Trinitee@aol.com Fri May 26 05:18:29 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 05:18:29 -0400 From: Trinitee@aol.com Subject: 95 loaded Discovery for sale Hi there, Due to circumstances beyound my control, I have to part with my brank spankin new 95 Discovery. If you are seriously interested please email me at Trinitee@AOL.com. I haven't taken it off road yet so it is still a virgin. I live in Dallas and I'm asking $34,000 for this beauty. Specs are: 95 Discovery;5k miles; Black; Auto; AC; Rear AC; leather seats incl rear jumpseats; dual sunroofs; brush bar; rear lamp guards; factory loadspace rubber mat; factory rubber floor mats; shop manual. Serious inquires only. Thanks/ Trinitee From Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Fri May 26 11:29:59 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 11:29:59 +0200 (MET DST) From: Franz.Parzefall@Physik.TU-Muenchen.DE Subject: Some Engine Questions Hi all I'm still not sure what Land Rover to buy. Those Series ones look nice, but what bothers me is their fuel consumption (I don't own a filling station nor my Pa ;-). So I'm thinking of getting one with a swapped diesel engine, doing the swap myselve or getting me a D90 tdi (with is awfully expensive for one who has just finished with university) -Has anyone done an engine conversion and can tell me how much work this is and what has to be done? -Does anyone have information about 'european' engine swap kits (eg. Mercedes-Benz, Peugeot or whatever)? -Converting a Serie LR to the TDi will not be too easy, due to the nearly double power and torque - Right? -Can somebody tell me anything about the TD (not the TDi) engine? This seems to have been fitted to earlier Defenders before the TDi came. Since yet I coudn't get any information about this. Thanks Franz P.S. If you know about a 88 or 90 on sale in the 'nearer' range (I'mlocated in Southern Germany) please tell me. --------------------------------------------------------------- Franz Parzefall fparzefa@physik.tu-muenchen.de --------------------------------------------------------------- From azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Fri May 26 10:39:34 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 10:39:34 UNDEFINED From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: RR tyres \Am very unhappy with my replacement set of Michelin original equipment type \tires (205 R 16) on my 1988 Range Rover. They are about 3 years old with \about 28,000 miles. Decent tread remaining. About 98% of those miles are \purely road miles. Sidewalls show excessive (seems to me) cracking. One \expect Michelin to stand behind this? Any reccomendations for replacements \of a different brand? Perhaps a little larger, huskier tire? Truck is \used daily and mostly on the road. Help and suggestions appreciated. My 90 gets similar use. I use Goodyear Wranglers. Mine have 45k on em and look good for another 10-20k yet. I'll be buying more. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Just another roadkill on the Information Superhighway +++++++++++++++++++++++ None-%er #1 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From "KING.B.P" Fri May 26 13:32:19 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 13:32:19 BST From: "KING.B.P" Subject: Purchase Hi folks, it's good to have the list up and running again. I have been reading the list for some time now, but thought it about time I spoke up. I have been a Land-Rover fan for many years now, but due to finances had not been able to afford one. Now as I graduate in the summer (with a bit of luck) I am seriously considering purchase of a Series III. Now comes the part where you experts out there can assist me, I still can't afford to purchase a mint condition example and so am bound to have to carry out some work on the beast. I have had a reasonable amount of experience of working on engines, through helping my dad on his cars, and I have a cousin who can do welding for me, so I was wondering, do I 1) Go for a vehicle with a solid chasis and bulkhead and not worry excessively about the condition of the mechanicals as long as they are all there and repairable, or 2) Aim for a vehicle with excellent mechanicals and not worry about some chasis or bulkhead corrosion, eg replacing the rear crossmember or a couple of outriggers, as long as the main rails are intact. Your opinions on this will be greatly appreciated. Whilst I'm on I'll just mention that I'm looking at a 2,25 petrol, since I have limited faith in the diesel equivalent, several of my friends have run these units, and they haven't proven very reliable, powerful, or frugal on fuel, not to mention servicing costs. Well I'd better stop wasting bandwidth now Cheers for any hints B.P.King Barry P King Student Dept Civil Engineering University of Portsmouth BE3_036@civl.port.ac.uk From "Richard M. Platkin" Fri May 26 09:14:26 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 09:14:26 -0400 (EDT) From: "Richard M. Platkin" Subject: Winch & Brushbar for Disco Anyone have any experience with the Land Rover brush bar/Warn winch combo for the Discovery? I was quoted a price of almost $2000 by Rovers North, but this seems pretty steep. I've been trying to get some info on this product from my dealer and from LRNA, but my dealer won't acknowledge that this product exists, and all LRNA can tell me is that it does exist. I understand that the brush-bar/winch combo has been certified to work with the SRS/airbag system in the Disco. Does anyone know of any other setups so certified? Does it matter? Some people have told me that the type of brush-bar you use would not affect the airbag setup. Any info would be appreciated. From Alan Richer 26 95 May EDT 1909 Date: 26 May 95 9:52:24 EDT From: Alan Richer Subject: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? I know, I know....dumb question. If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? Obviously, the firewall area is RIGHT OUT, as is the underdash area presently occupied by my Kodiak heater. Any good ideas? ajr From Ray Harder Fri May 26 09:01:06 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 09:01:06 -0500 (CDT) From: Ray Harder Subject: Mid-AM SIII 88 for sale... I was his "elmer", you see. Its an old amateur radio term for someone "in the hobby" giving all sorts of information and guidance to a newcomer. Mark wanted a rover really bad, or so he told me. I lent him all my literature and he read every page twice, or so he said. That made things worse, and we talked for hours about rovers and how badly he wanted one. I told him that the only one I knew of within driving distance was overpriced, but had potential. The PO wanted $3k, but if it could be bought "in the low-teens", then it was a contender. He was so excited that he drove down the next day and bought it for $1k. Bought some new parts, like a gastank and some other stuff,too. Took off the front fenders the first week he had it so he could start the "restoration" project. It languished for 6 weeks or so "...'cause of finals coming up...". I drove/bicycled by several times to see the progress, but there wasn't any. Got the call last night and I was really disappointed. He was moving to Chicago and "felt he couldn't take the rover". I invested some time which is ok, but I am loosing one of the few local rover fans I have to verbalize with. Anyway: Location: mid-Missouri FOR SALE: 1973 (or thereabouts) white SIII 88. Has been setting for about 5 years. Frame/bulkhead ok, has had rear crosspiece replaced -- frame needs painting. Coachwork mostly straight, needs buffing. Interior average. Heads have been converted to nolead. Small winch (junk). Overdrive. must be towed. Safari top. Some new parts. Asking $1k. Email or call to discuss. Ray Harder 314-445-7725 (home, recorder) 314-882-0521 (work) PS. You can't (maybe you can) imagine the anguish this is causing in my family unit. From srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Fri May 26 08:10:56 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 08:10:56 -0600 From: srbrown@sair020.energylan.sandia.gov Subject: Weber Carburetor Adjustments: Here's How! Having seen two requests for info on adjustment of Weber carburetors in the last few days, and having just installed one on my `63 IIa (I've still got the manual!), here goes: This is specific to a 1 bbl Weber replacement "economy" carburetor jetted for Landrover 2286cc by Weber (it is a 34-ICH). (By the way I get about 15 mpg with this thing -- much better than the to 10 mpg from the kludged Rochester from an old Jeep it had before, but worse than my old `67 109 with a Solex (sometimes up to 20 mpg) -- better power than both though!). As you may know, these carbs were used on lots of vehicles, they can be adjusted for each type by replacing the proper jets, etc. My father in law has a Weber Book describing all of these adjustments and modifications in detail -- he was able to adapt a Weber 2bbl from a Ford Pinto to an Opel GT with jets purchased from a speed shop in california (called Crazy Larry's or some such). Here's the info from the Weber Landrover Installation instructions: Calibration: ITEM Part # Size Main choke ........ 27 Auxiliary venturi 70311350 35 Main jet 73801165 165 air corrector 77201190 190 emulsion tube 61440211 F6 idle jet 74409050 50 pump jet 76407055 55 pump back bleed 79701040 40 needle valve 79531175 175 Float Level (with gasket) 7mm +- 0.25 MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS 1. Start engine and maintain approximately 1200 rpm until normal operating temperature is attained and the choke can be fully returned. 2. Set engine idle speed to approximately 850 rpm, by adjusting the throttle stop screw. 3. Adjust idle mixture screw to obtain the highest engine speed. 4. repeat steps 2 and 3 as necessary so that the highest attainable engine speed by adjusting the mixture screw is 850 rpm. 5. The final adjustment is made by turning the mixture screw approximately half turn clockwise to weaken the mixture and so obtain the exhaust emission value of CO 2.5-3.0% Vol. The engine speed should now stabilize at approximately 800 rpm. THAT'S IT! In one of the messages, one fellow's vehicle had failed emissions -- he then asked (among other things) what the point dwell angle should be. I enquired from British Pacific about this once, the fellow put me on hold and called a mechanic friend of his, the value he quoted was 57-63 degrees. I carefully adjusted my points with a feeler gage and then checked the dwell immediately after and, BINGO, 60 degrees! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ /==============\ | `63 | IIa | Stephen Brown |______|_______| Geomechanics Department, MS-0751 /___/^^^^^^\___\9 Sandia National Laboratories |oo|(@)##(@)|oo| Albuquerque, New Mexico 87185 | | [####] | | ======%%%%====== email: srbrown@sandia.gov {*}={&&}====={*} {*} {*} ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From Dixon Kenner Fri May 26 10:46:57 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 10:46:57 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? On 26 May 1995, Alan Richer wrote: > If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in > a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? Obviously, the > firewall area is RIGHT OUT, as is the underdash area presently > occupied by my Kodiak heater. Any good ideas? Assuming it is not a 109 Station Wagon, a number of people hide stereo units, CB's, ham equipment behind the middle seat mounter vertically. Out of sight there. Rgds, Dixon From Fraser.Young@EEC-ISD.eecal.sprint.com Fri May 26 10:27:00 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 10:27:00 -0400 From: Fraser.Young@EEC-ISD.eecal.sprint.com Subject: Re: Disco tire pressures Robert A. Virzi asked the following: >I've got a question about the recommended tire pressures for on-road travel >in Disco's. According to the manual, front tires should be inflated to 26 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >have been the tires with suggested >higher< pressures. So what's the >reasoning behind the recommended pressures? The tyre pressures quoted in the LR user handbooks are the 'All Load' tyre pressures i.e a pressure that allows you to travel fully loaded (GVW) on the highway. You will find, usually in the workshop manual, a paragraph headed 'For greater comfort at part load' which gives details of a lower tyre pressure allowable for the rear tyres. You have to remember that to allow for owner ignorance LR quote a tyre pressure which will be safe under all conditions, and put the detailed info in the more technical literature. In the LR published book 'The Land Rover Experience' (Part No. STC8755) there is a table which gives the allowable pressures for all the recommended sizes of tyre that are fitted to LR vehicles. The following are taken from the above book:- Discovery - tyre pressure in bars(psi) -------------------------------------- These are described as being suitable for Hard-road use (to max speed) Tyre Size/Brand Front/Rear --------------- ---------- Michelin 205R16 XM+S 244 TL Kerb 1.9(27)/2.2(32) GVW 1.9(27)/2.6(38) Michelin 235/70R16 4x4 TL Kerb 1.8(26)/2.0(29) GVW 1.8(26)/2.3(33) Goodyear Eagle GT+4 235/70R16 Kerb 1.8(26)/2.0(29) GVW 1.8(26)/2.3(33) etc.... The differences are more extreme with the likes of the Defender 110:- Michelin 7.50R16 X 4x4 Kerb 1.8(26)/2.0(29) GVW 1.9(27)/3.3(48) The table continues with recommended pressures for tracks and poor roads (max speed 40mph) and emergency flotation (max speed 12mph) I hope the above is of interest, remember to check the above figures in case I've made a typo. Cheers Fraser Young 1995 Defender 110 CSW 1973 Lightweight Aberdeen, Scotland From "S.W.Brierley" Fri May 26 16:28:48 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 16:28:48 +0100 From: "S.W.Brierley" Subject: Scum Of the earth unite. Hi Folks, I have noticed that i am become increasingly disliked by certain groups of people, and my crime????, well, owning a Land rover of course. Let me see, ........ The environmentalists hate me because its a ser III with a dirty great gas guzzling V8 (14-15 Mpg) that pollutes the atmosphere. Land owners hate me because I constantly tear around the countryside ripping up your trees and killing small animals.... alledgedly.!! And now, parents hate me because I possess a set of child killing train lines bolted to the front of my vehicle. So there we have it, a mild mannered, semi well educated good to citizen has turned in to a heathen just by purchasing a lanny........COOL!!!! I would'nt part with it for the world. Only kidding guys, hope it didn't offend to many people, its just that i'm getting paranoid now!!. Stu. From "S.W.Brierley" Fri May 26 16:28:48 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 16:28:48 +0100 From: "S.W.Brierley" Subject: Scum Of the earth unite. Hi Folks, I have noticed that i am become increasingly disliked by certain groups of people, and my crime????, well, owning a Land rover of course. Let me see, ........ The environmentalists hate me because its a ser III with a dirty great gas guzzling V8 (14-15 Mpg) that pollutes the atmosphere. Land owners hate me because I constantly tear around the countryside ripping up your trees and killing small animals.... alledgedly.!! And now, parents hate me because I possess a set of child killing train lines bolted to the front of my vehicle. So there we have it, a mild mannered, semi well educated good to citizen has turned in to a heathen just by purchasing a lanny........COOL!!!! I would'nt part with it for the world. Only kidding guys, hope it didn't offend to many people, its just that i'm getting paranoid now!!. Stu. From Jon Humphrey Fri May 26 12:02:24 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 1995 12:02:24 -0400 (EDT) From: Jon Humphrey Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? Alan, I just installed a radio/tape player in my lla pickup. I used a white lexan light cover about 12" long x 4" high x 5" deep. Drilled holes to mount the radio thru the front and then mounted an "|~~~~ " or L shaped bracket to the cover so it just slips over the top of the lip on the upper dash shelf. It hooks on there and is self supporting and cantilevers the radio far enough out from the bulkhead to permit all the wires and stuff to be hidden. That probably sounds pretty confusing but the trick is to get the back of the radio away from the bulkhead. It is very strong and the bumps don't bother it. This also looks pretty neat. ~~~| |______________ |<---- Light cover ________________| | Radio |-- |_______________| | Hook---> |~~~~~~~~~ ______________| | | | ___| |~~~~| | |<---Dash or top shelf side view of the round part From brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Fri May 26 09:48:08 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 95 09:48:08 PDT From: brabyn@skivs.ski.org (John Brabyn) Subject: Re: Winch & Brushbar for Disco Glad to hear there is finally a winch mount for the North American airbag Discoveries. Is ther one for the airbag Range Rovers yet? I assume the difference it makes whether or not the setup is designed to work with airbags may be such factors as a brushbar preventing the airbag sensors from being triggered? I guess the certified ones must have soft spots in them or something so the sensors can be triggered when you hit something. This is purely speculation on my part. Cheers JOhn Brabyn 89RR From "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com> 26 95 May EDT 1914 Date: 26 May 95 14:32:12 EDT From: "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com> Subject: Disco wheels and tires After asking many questions of Rover-net I'm now ready to give some answers. I recently bouught 4 steel disco wheels in England and have now fitted them with Cooper Discoverer STT radials size 225-75-16. This combination works great off road and swaps with the stock alloys in 25 minutes. The Coopers are not much louder on road and once off the pavement they provide my disco with tanklike traction. I have been at full suspension travel with NO clearence problems as the Coopers are within 1/4 inch diameter of the stock Michelins. The only problem I am having is that I like the look of the Disco so much with the white steel wheels and mud tires that I can't bring myself to put the alloys back on! Mark Ritter 94 Disco From "Russell G. Dushin" Fri May 26 15:21:07 1995 Date: Fri, 26 May 95 15:21:07 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Heaters > There're at least 3 different Kodiak heaters out there... > The early type has the air intake next to the grill, a long hose [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > (Totally lost on non USA folks...I hope..) > I've seen this heater on vehicle up to 1966..... Our '67 farm rig (aka RoverRoach) has one of these....could have been a leftover '66 I suppose, but was always registered as a '67. Now, let's see what Carroll Merroll has behind door number 2..... rd/nige From Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) 26 1995 May GMT 1923 Date: 26 May 1995 23:17:29 GMT From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) Subject: Floor Mats Just wanted to get a last word in on floor mats. Any Rover owners in the Seattle area can check out BOEING SURPLUS in South Seattle. Its where the Boeing Co. gets rid of everything they don't need anymore or have too much of (i.e. LOTS!!!). Among a multitude of other cool, useful and really cheap stuff they usually have full 1/4 inch thick solid rubber industrial matting, with v-groove top and flat bottom, for $0.20/lb. (They keep rubber products in bins along the wall in the ouside back lot.) The width is the same as the back of an 88". It's heavy, probably 35 or 40 pounds to do an entire Rover, but it will never wear out and is easy to clean. I made front floor mats, storage compartment mat, battery mat, and liners for several tool chests for $6.00. Fred Ellsworth '71 IIA 88" PS Its easy to cut with a utility knife - the floor mats look factory made. From Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) 26 1995 May GMT 1922 Date: 26 May 1995 22:57:24 GMT From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) Subject: Tune-up Questions Howdy All!! I'm a fairly new Rover owner having just purchased a '71 Series IIA 88" about 7 months ago. It was great over the winter (alot better than my last British car, a '57 TR-3) and we've been having a blast with it. However, I've started a spring tune-up and have a few questions: 1) What exactly is the correct idle speed and ignition timing (8:1 compression ratio)? The factory shop manual says one thing and the emissions plate on the radiator panel says something completely different. Neither seems perfect but the emission settings suck. I set the timing by ear when I first got it but it's always idled very rough. Is this normal? 2) I figured the rough idle may be due to an incorrect mixture setting (its got the Zenith carb). However, the adjustment screw seems to have very little effect on anything. As far as I can tell it's all the way closed right now and backing it off even four or five turns doesn't do much at all. Is this normal? 3) I had the transmission rebuilt at DAP in Vermont 6-8 weeks ago when reverse gear blew out. Since I put the tranny back in it seems to buck and shudder quite a bit when starting in first gear from a stop. It doesn't do this every time and maybe its just me getting used to the vehicle again (I was out of town for a couple weeks and driving all sorts of different, boring cars). Assuming its NOT me, what could be causing this? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Fred Ellsworth '71 IIA 88" --------------------From JDolan2109@aol.com Sat May 27 05:29:28 1995 Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 05:29:28 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Buffing? Saw a IIA posted here that is for sale in Missouri or thereabouts. One of the descriptions intrigued me. It said "needs buffing". What is a 'buffing'? Never heard of such a thing! I don't think I have one. Does anyone know the part number? I seem to remember hearing of someone who tried to put a buffing on a LR, but gave up because it was too hard. Oh, mine is a LHD. See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (econobox?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat May 27 02:01:53 1995 Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 02:01:53 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SI Alan asks.. > If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in > a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? Obviously, the I've seen a very nice installation using a custom-made box in place of the center seat. The box had the radio and space for cassette storage inside and had a hinged lid which covered the whole affair. Cheers Mike From LANDROVER@delphi.com Sat May 27 02:02:09 1995 Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 02:02:09 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Scum Of the earth unite. S.W.Brierley, noted scum, states.. > I have noticed that i am become increasingly disliked > by certain groups of people, and my crime????, > well, owning a Land rover of course. Why you terrible person! (You forgot to capitalize Rover)! > The environmentalists hate me because its a ser III > with a dirty great gas guzzling V8 (14-15 Mpg) that > pollutes the atmosphere. Horrors! Greenpeace activists should be camping out on your doorstep. > Land owners hate me because I constantly tear around > the countryside ripping up your trees and killing > small animals.... alledgedly.!! And the fact that you have a bumper sticker that reads: "I speed up to run down small animals." doesn't help any... > And now, parents hate me because I possess a set of > child killing train lines bolted to the front of > my vehicle. NO! Not That! Enough! Cease! Desist! (Where can I get some of those train lines?? ) > Only kidding guys, hope it didn't offend to many > people, its just that i'm getting paranoid now!!. Well.. you can't offend me.. After all, I'm Pond Scum.. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol From Lloyd Allison Sat May 27 20:14:08 1995 Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 20:14:08 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: breaking half-shafts (S2-S3) It is recommended to check the rover type half shafts *after* any hard work. Apparently they can twist quite dramatically, at the diff' splines especially, and then work harden over the ensuing weeks and finally snap somewhere innocent, like at the shopping centre (mall!) Lloyd From Sanna@aol.com Sat May 27 08:27:58 1995 Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 08:27:58 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? >If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? ....on your head. Get a Walkman & some good, tightly sealing headphones. It'll be the only way you'll hear the music. From Charlie Wright Sat May 27 16:01:33 1995 Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 16:01:33 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Buffing? On Sat, 27 May 1995 JDolan2109@aol.com wrote: > Saw a IIA posted here that is for sale in Missouri or thereabouts. One of > the descriptions intrigued me. It said "needs buffing". What is a 'buffing'? > Never heard of such a thing! I don't think I have one. Does anyone know the > part number? I seem to remember hearing of someone who tried to put a buffing I think buffing comes standard with the 'yuppie trim pack' for Discovery's and newer Range Rovers. It certainly comes with the extra-special aero-effects kit for Range Rovers going to the middle east (these are advertised in the back of LRO Intl.) and the six-wheel stretched Rangie conversion. I suspect any Disco or Rangie owner can get away with fitting a buffing, as long as they don't tell their beer-buddies. There was never, to my knowledge, such a thing for Series trucks, except as an aftermarket add-on available through "Taylor's Off-Road Emprorium"... never seen one fitted though. Cheers, Charlie From jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Sat May 27 09:18:48 1995 Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 09:18:48 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: 2.25l Unleaded Head Check Can anyone out there tell me how I'd determine if a 2.25l petrol engine has had the head rebuilt for use with unleaded fuel? As a second question, if this hasn't been done what's the likely cost/time for doing the work in the US (DIY)? The engine probably has about 120K miles on it. At this mileage is it worth performing the head change or should I wait for a complete rebuilt/replacement? Cheers, Jeremy Bartlett jjbpears@ix.netcom.com From Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) 27 1995 May GMT 1921 Date: 27 May 1995 21:07:21 GMT From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth) Subject: Re: Audio Install in Series IIA I just put a stereo in my 71 series IIA 88". I used one strip plumber's tape (approx. 1/2" wide galvanized steel tape perforated with holes throughout its length - available at any hardware store for $0.50) bent around the sides & bottom half of the stereo. One sheet metal screw through the plumber's tape on each side fastened it very solidly to the heat distribution box right above the yellow FWD knob. It was a tight fit between the gearshift & the H/L range selector but it did fit and looks like it was made to go there. I put speakers in each door panel (I made door panels out of 1/8" plywood and carpeted them). I also put speakers in the upper rear corners of the hardtop in a panel which I also made out of plywood and covered with vinyl. Looks OK. The speakers themselves I got at a junkyard out of a newer Honda for a few bucks (my brother gave me an old stereo he wasn't using). I know all the jokes about stereos in Rovers but this one sounds great, looks ok and only cost a few bucks. Fred From maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Sat May 27 16:44:57 1995 Date: Sat, 27 May 1995 16:44:57 -0400 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Subject: RE: Tune-up Questions Fred asked: 1) What exactly is the correct idle speed and ignition timing (8:1 compression ratio)? The factory shop manual says one thing and the emissions plate on the radiator panel says something completely different. I'm not sure of the correct answer, but I set mine to about 800 rpm and 6 degrees btc, static timed, after setting the dwell to 60 degrees. However, the adjustment screw seems to have very little effect on anything. As far as I can tell it's all the way closed right now and backing it off even four or five turns doesn't do much at all. Is this normal? No. You may need to rebuild the carb. The large O ring may be bad. If the top to bottom halves do not mate well (you see plenty of daylight between), it will cause a rich mixture at all speeds and make your idle mixture screw next to useless. Carefully use a file to plane down the high spots, making it seal as well as possible. Turning the mixture screw in all the way should cause it to stall. When setting the idle mixture, set the speed, then turn the screw in until it starts to stumble, then out until it smoothes out. Reset the rpm if necessary. Sort out the ignition stuff first. Since I put the tranny back in it seems to buck and shudder quite a bit when starting in first gear from a stop. This is probably due to the incorrect idle settings (unless you have a loose motor/transmission mount). Good Luck! Bill maloney@wings.attmail.com From Matt Snyder/CA/MO <71450.2606@compuserve.com> 27 95 May EDT 1918 Date: 27 May 95 18:49:43 EDT From: Matt Snyder/CA/MO <71450.2606@compuserve.com> Subject: sick alternator on 88 RR My alternator is sick, it has these symptoms: 1. It whines 2. It gets very hot to the touch (or is that normal?) 3. The "ignition warning" light, the one that looks like a battery and is "connected in series with the alternator field circuit" lights up when I turn off the engine, and stays lit until it drains the battery. I checked for bad wiring, and found that, indeed, where the light is connected to the IND terminal on the alternator, there is 12V. Symptoms 1 and 2 would lead me to simply replace the bearings, depending on how hard that is. Symptom 3, while pretty strange, would lead me to suspect a simple failed condensor or relay or something. The combination of symptoms, though, worries me. Any ideas? -Matt From tonyy@ntalpha.nt.bom.gov.au (Tony Yates) Sun May 28 09:52:44 1995 Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 09:52:44 EST From: tonyy@ntalpha.nt.bom.gov.au (Tony Yates) Subject: Unleaded head . >Can anyone out there tell me how I'd determine if a 2.25l petrol engine . >has had the head rebuilt for use with unleaded fuel? . > One of my personal bugbears is the unleaded/leaded fuel debate. In Australia the government has been trying to persuade those of us with pre-unleaded vehicles to use unleaded if our vehicles can handle it. They encourage this by slapping a 2c/litre extra tax on leaded. Presumably this has also been the case in the UK and US, with much talk over the years in LRO about unleaded conversions for LR products. Now for some little known facts: The tetraethyl lead in leaded petrol is used to boost the octane rating. Without this compound something else must be added to do the same job which, in unleaded, consists of various benzene derived compounds. These are extremely toxic but are normally removed from the exhaust gases by the catalytic converter. Therefore a vehicle running on unleaded with a converter is fine - almost. The converter doesn't actually function properly for the first few minutes until it has warmed up. The exhaust gases from unleaded are so toxic that it should not be used in lawn mowers/grass trimmers etc without some sort of face mask. European legislators are considering making it illegal to use unleaded in vehicles not fitted with catalytic convertors. Studies have shown (I'm not sure I believe this one) that lead emissions from vehicle exhausts are actually fairly harmless due to the lead hFrom Tom Stevenson Sun May 28 13:04:46 1995 Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 13:04:46 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Stevenson Subject: LR clutch judder Frederick Clutch judder when setting off in 1st gear (or reverse) can sometimes be caused by small quantities of oil on the clutch friction plates which get converted by heat into a tarry residue. The clutch alternately slips and grips, causing the judder, which can be quite alarming. My old 3/4 ton developed this problem when hot some years ago; it sounded and felt as though the gearbox was trying to jump out of the vehicle! New clutch plates solved the problem. Cheers! -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 From Tom Stevenson Sun May 28 13:37:42 1995 Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 13:37:42 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Stevenson Subject: Heaters The recent talk about heaters reminds me of the time the Smiths round fug-stirrer packed up in my old IIa 1/4 ton. Given the cost of replacing the matrix, my brother and I experimented with various items of clothing to combat the cold. First attempt was a tail-gunner's suit from a Lancaster. This even had heating elements built in, but we never got those to work. Also, being made from some thick jute material, the suit was so bulky it was almost impossible to bend your arms whilst wearing it, let alone climb into the LR cab. The next idea was to use ex German WD sleeping bags, which have built in arms and a hood, and also a zip at the foot so you can poke your boots out. This system worked very well, although I got some funny looks when filling up at night in motorway service stations. -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 From Charlie Wright Sun May 28 14:20:25 1995 Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 14:20:25 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Unleaded head Tony, I don't know what your sources were, but what you have said about unleaded fuel does not jive with what I've read about the stuff (or learned from my grandfather who worked as an engineer for Exxon's Houston refinery for 30 years). The converter makes a huge difference, yes, and 80% of emissions from a converted car are in the first 2-3 minutes running. Nevertheless, benzene and other aromatic hydrocarbons are byproducts of any sort of combustion (even your barby'), albeit depending a lot on the tune of the engine. The lead is _not_ inert after burning. It falls to the earth in soot/unburned HC's and gets right back into the environment. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a greenie, and after all, the lead was in the environment at some point anyway, it wasn't made from scratch. But it does end up on the surface, in water, in soil, etc. Heavy metals are bad for us, however we get 'em. Now I know we have some good chemists/refining types who've quoted on here before, please correct/improve my comments! Finally, on a SLIGHTLY different tack, read an article in Science (19 May 1995, last week, p.991-995) It's a VERY good analysis of 'no-emissions' policies, low emissions, unleaded vs. leaded vs. batteries, etc. Well written. It has lots of further references which might help our data on unleaded fuel emissions. The article itself should be of interest to any runners of older cars who like to argue that _we_ aren't the 'enviro-scum' we're made out to be. Look it up. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Sat May 28 11:35:08 1994 Date: Sat, 28 May 1994 11:35:08 -0500 From: kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: Loose steering Fellow Rover fans: I recently purchased the Owners's Workshop Manual for my 1989 RR (you know... In case of breakdown) Well, now I'm in the process of disassembling the truck in an attempt to fix all those "little things" that were bothering me. No one can help me with the wiring problem I'm having, but I was wondering if anyone could help with the steering. The truck runs straight, but when turning the wheel, it feels loose for the 1st 45 degrees, thereafter it feels like the steering is engaging. This happens in both directions. The manual suggests renewing some ball joint thing, but you have to press out some stuff from inside. The last time I encountered pressing was when I changed all the bushings, and it couldn't be done. Had to send the parts out to a shop that could do it and do without my truck for a couple of days. Is this steering fix going to be the same hassle? Anyother possibilties which may be easier to fix? Help is appreciated. kgb P.S. Not enough RR posts on this mail list! Just because it's a nice car doesn't mean that everyone who owns it is a YUPpie. P.P.S. As for the wiring, the MAZDA dealer I bought it from really f*ked that up. All the important features work, but I might as well have a Defender with the long list of options which don't work. From Sekerere@aol.com Sun May 28 16:17:09 1995 Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 16:17:09 -0400 From: Sekerere@aol.com Subject: Unleaded Gas Arizona is going to banned all leaded gas by the end of this year, so that means my 66 Series IIA will have to drink unleaded. What must I do to convert the engine to unleaded, and any guesstimates as to the cost of whatever I have to do? Your advice will be most appreciated if possible before the end of day tomorrow as I must make my aol account inactive during my Africa vacation. Thanks Chris Whitehead From wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson) Sun May 28 19:19:18 1995 Date: Sun, 28 May 1995 19:19:18 -0500 (CDT) From: wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson) Subject: Brush bar/winch combo I looked into this ridiculously overpriced unit a while back; I called Warn and they said that to get it I had to go through a Rover dealer; they wouldn't sell it themselves. Anyway, I had them fax me the installation instructions which has full coverage of what the thing looks like and how it installs. If you're interested, zap me your fax number and I'll fax it to you (hope the quality will be OK). Regards, Henry B. Wilson (wilsonhb@ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu) NEW WWW home page (with Disco pics) http://vumclib.mc.vanderbilt.edu/~wilsonhb From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Sun May 28 17:48:56 1995 Date: Sun, 28 May 95 17:48:56 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: Sick 88 Range Rover All, Looks like my Range Rover has blown it's head gasket. Leaking wter through the overflow, radiotr light flashing on, losing coolant, no leaks !!! and finally the green anti-freeze has turned white. Anyone confirm that the gasket has gone from this ? Mark From LANDROVER@delphi.com Mon May 29 01:40:21 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 01:40:21 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Sick 88 Range Rover Mark.. Yup.. sounds like a blown head gasket.. At least the anti-freeze turning white sound like oil in the coolant. Are you getting any coolant into the oil sump too?? Cheers Mike From LANDROVER@delphi.com Mon May 29 01:40:35 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 01:40:35 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Unleaded Gas Chris Whitehead (and others) discuss unleaded stuff... > Arizona is going to banned all leaded gas by the end of this year, so that > means my 66 Series IIA will have to drink unleaded. What must I do to > convert the engine to unleaded, and any guesstimates as to the cost of > whatever I have to do? Well... you don't really *have* to do anything to get the truck to run on unleaded.. Just fill 'er up and off you go. It is very difficult to find leaded fuel here in New York State. Some places have it, but I believe it is just unleaded fuel that has been treated in some way. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I think that the lead - besides boosting the octane - provides for some protection to the valves. Without the lead, the valves slowly recede into the valve seats. Probably not a big problem unless you run it every day. The solution is to install hardened valves and seats - which means pulling the head off and rebuilding it. Cost depends on what you replace (valves, guides & seats from Rovers North are around $250!!) You could also get a reconditioned head and save yourself a lot of work. Should you do it?? That's up to you. I've been running a '64 Triumph Spitfire without the hardened valves for more than 10 years on unleaded fuel with no ill effects. It hasn't seemed to bother the Rover, either. Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 773-2697 Gloversville NY, 12078 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol (Fern) R.I.P. 7 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol #:-}> 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol From tonyy@ntalpha.nt.bom.gov.au (Tony Yates) Mon May 29 15:44:19 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 15:44:19 EST From: tonyy@ntalpha.nt.bom.gov.au (Tony Yates) Subject: Unleaded and valves . > . >Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I think that the lead - besides . >boosting the octane - provides for some protection to the valves. Without . >the lead, the valves slowly recede into the valve seats. Probably not a big . >problem unless you run it every day. The solution is to install hardened . >valves and seats - which means pulling the head off and rebuilding it. I run a V8 110 on LPG which is a dry fuel, resulting in excessive valve wear similar to unleaded. The solution I use is to have a Flashlube upper cylinder head lubrication system installed which injects lubricant into the inlet manifold using the manifold vacuum . This is pretty cheap to install and run. I think Moreys have a similar system. ===================================================================== Tony Yates () ()( ) Darwin RFC ph: (089) 824 724 ( ) Bureau of Meteorology fax: (089) 824 729 ~~~~~~~ PO Box 735 ///// Darwin NT 0801 email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au /// Australia // ===================================================================== From Lori Bravo Mon May 29 02:30:51 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 02:30:51 -0500 (CDT) From: Lori Bravo Subject: Hard Top, Defender 90 help Greetings! I'm a recent Land Rover owner (3 weeks and it's GREAT!) and I'm looking for someone who sells hardtops... I'm not really fond of the authorized fiberglass top for the DEFENDER 90. Could someoFrom Charlie Wright Mon May 29 11:44:28 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 11:44:28 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Re: Sick 88 Range Rover On Mon, 29 May 1995 LANDROVER@delphi.com wrote: > Yup.. sounds like a blown head gasket.. At least the anti-freeze turning > white sound like oil in the coolant. Are you getting any coolant into the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > white sound like oil in the coolant. Are you getting any coolant into the > oil sump too?? Good point, I agreed with the diagnosis, but forgot about the other direction. Oil in the coolant prevents corrosion ;-), but water in the oil is -bad- news. Check the sump right away. Also look for signs of exhaust gasses in the oil-system (lots of gunk leaking out of PCV valves, breather hoses, filler cap) and look for pressure in the cooling system almost _immediately_ after startup (before it's even warm). Charlie From "Russell G. Dushin" Mon May 29 11:17:07 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 95 11:17:07 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: snakes OK, folks, so I made my way out to the Red Rover yesterday. This is the one that's up on blocks, ready for his resto, with a new frame in the waiting. I had cleaned it all out a month or so ago-removed decade-plus of mammalian inhabitants, got it level (more or less) and up off the inverted springs. Up until yesterday, I had resisted for ten years the temptation to rape bits off the thing, but Bill Maloney recently convinced me to try the rear diff in Nigel (remember the saga of the leaking brand new diffs?). I can rationalize the scarfing only as I assure myself that the restoration process has officially begun, and this diff swap is only a temporary thing.....until I manage to get and install new bearings all around for the old one. Hold me to it (please). I arrive at the Red Rover and much to my surprise the prop shaft bolts come right out. I pop a cold one in celebration.....this is gonna be easy. As I enjoy the fermented fruits I stand back, eye the beast, and reflect as all good Rover owners do on the dreams that were and those that will be. Moving closer, my eye sweeps across the fine lines of the metallic dash, those gorgeous guages, the wiper motors, but then hones in and locks upon a frightful sight......there, upon the passenger side floor and draped across the top of the heater lies a nearly six foot long freshly shedded snake skin, still wet. I can hold the thing from one outstretched hand to the other and it is completely intact. Fortunately, it isn't a copperhead, nor a rattlesnake-it's only a blacksnake, I sez to myself I sez, but somehow I am only marginally calmed by this realization. It's big mother blacksnake......now I know where all the rodents went. The snakeskin is retrieved and placed across the top of Nigel's windshield. It fits easily, corner to corner with more to spare. A few hefty slugs off the beer later I contemplate slithering back below the beast and do so, cautiously, to finish the job. Fortunately, the diff comes out like it was put in yesterday. So, my question for the list is: If you were a six foot blacksnake, where would you hide in an 88? Frame rails? Air cleaner? Bell housing? Exhaust system? Gas tank? Yikes, rd/nige From mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Mon May 29 08:43:11 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 95 08:43:11 PDT From: mtalbot@InterServ.Com (Mark Talbot) Subject: Re: Offroading in New Hampshire All, We are having another offroading trip in South Western NH. Ray Dixon's Rocky road tour Sat Aug 12th Leave Keene approx 9am Bring your own picnic. E-mail me if your interested. Mark From Dixon Kenner Mon May 29 11:45:44 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 11:45:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: snakes On Mon, 29 May 1995, Russell G. Dushin wrote: > So, my question for the list is: If you were a six foot blacksnake, > where would you hide in an 88? Frame rails? Air cleaner? Bell > housing? Exhaust system? Gas tank? Where ever you expect me the least. Preferably slither into that open, half empty case of beer sitting on the grass nearby to escape the summer heat and sun, catch some nice coolness while you sweat over the Red Rover... :-) From Charlie Wright Mon May 29 17:04:59 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 17:04:59 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: Prop-shaft lengths? I just finished my conversion to put the SeriesIII 3.54 Salisbury rear axle (off a Stage I) in my IIa 109. Now I know the diff nose is longer on a Salisbury, so I got a SeriesIII propshaft too. Low and behold, the shaft is TOO SHORT? The IIa shaft is clearly too long (3"), and the III shaft _does_ work, but it's about 1" too short. Enough spline engages to be safe, but not enough to let me tighten the sealing-ring. I checked the suspension geometry, and it looks fine. At first I thought (oh, it's up on blocks, no wonder), but then we dropped it and the problem went from 1/2" short to 1" short. Bizarre. Is the front half of the shaft different on a Series III as well? That is the only place I can see taking up the slack (we didn't change the front piece). I don't think I have a special 110" chassis on my '66 109? Help, I'm baffled. Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com> 29 95 May EDT 1913 Date: 29 May 95 13:17:00 EDT From: "Anthony J. Bonanno" <75034.3062@compuserve.com> Subject: Unleaded Gas Hi folks, Following the thread on unleaded gas.. thought I'd throw in my observations. I agree with Michael Loiodice. I've been running my Series IIA 2.25 liter on unleaded for many years with no noticeable effect. However, in addition to the green concerns, I guess the issue for us old series owners is the eventual effect on the valve train components, especially the valve seats. You may go many years without much of a problem, but a couple of the mechanics who I do respect and seem to really know their stuff all agree that the seats will wear faster on the unleaded unless you have the hardened stellite (sp?) modifications to your head. So what are the options? One of my mechanic friends suggests it isn't worth worryng about. Drive it until the seats wear, they will probably require more and more adjustment (due to the receding seats), eventually you burn a valve and you need to get a valve job..THEN get the head rebuilt with the new harded seats, etc. The point is that one option is to just wait until you need to take the head off anyway (due to unleaded gas or whatever) before going to the expense of re-working it with the hardened components. Another alternative is to take the preventive action and spend a small fortune in parts and labor to re-work your head with the new hardened parts. A third option (that I hadn't seen mentioned yet) might be to delay the problem by the use of additives for unleaded fuel to slow down the wear process. There are several variations in the stores. One Land Rover mechanic I know recommended Stewart Warner's "CD-2". I have no idea if this stuff really works, but since I'd like to delay as long as possible removing the head, I figured it wouldn't hurt. And it is fairly cheap. I found it in K-Mart for about $7.00 for a 1 quart container. Each quart is enough to treat 320 gallons of gas which works out to be about .25 worth of CD-2 for each 12 gallons of gas (or one LR tank full). The information on the CD-2 container states that "it forms a protective coating on exhaust valves and seats, diminshes the metal to metal contact, etc..." Once again, I want to emphasize I don't really know how effective these unleaded gas additives are and I'm not affiliated in any way with the marketing of this stuff. Maybe some other folks out there have some experience with these additives. For what its worth... Cheers! Tony Bonanno Santa Fe, NM From gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Mon May 29 11:40:13 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 11:40:13 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: Hard Top, Defender 90 help Lori, Welcome to the fold! I'm answering because, when I've seen this question posted before, I've seen all sorts of silly answers suggesting removing the roll cage. I can't stand it so I'm going to jump in. >I'm a recent Land Rover owner (3 weeks and it's GREAT!) and I'm looking >for someone who sells hardtops... You could get a used D90 aluminum hardtop from England, probably most easily from Famous Four which seems to be a fairly big supplier of used components for export. You would have to have the top modified, which could probably be done in England before it's shipped over. I'm pretty sure the cage is made by Safety Devices which would surely supply the necessary specifications to Famous Four or whomever for making the appropriate modifications. What you would have to do is modify the side panels of the roof to allow the roll cage brace to pass through. This should be doable by cutting out a small section so that the width and reach from the waist of the body to the brace would just about fit, allowing the side panel to be sort of "tipped in" when you want to put your roof on, then a small panel to fit from the top of the side panel down to the brace, which would overlap the cut-out, and bolt in place with several small bolts. The brace opening could presumably be sealed by the same grommet that seals the softtop where the brace passes through. Once you have the side panels in place, you can install the top section of the roof. You'll also have to have either an upper tailgate, such as the one used on the fiberglass top or replace your existing side-opening tailgate with a back door from a 110. Have fun, Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, CA (707)485-7220 (home) (707)463-4265 (work) '73 Land-Rover 88, more LRs, Austin Champ, BMW 3.0si, Peugeot 505 Turbo... From jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Mon May 29 12:19:42 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 12:19:42 -0700 From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: Re: Heaters >The next idea was to use ex German WD sleeping bags, which have built in >arms and a hood, and also a zip at the foot so you can poke your boots >out. This system worked very well, although I got some funny looks when >filling up at night in motorway service stations. Oddly enough, when I first had my rover I used one of these same commando bags. It got so cold, I eventually drove with my feet *inside* the bag... I also remember the odd glances at refueling stations (although people were surprisingly polite ;) jory bell From Sekerere@aol.com Mon May 29 16:24:17 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 16:24:17 -0400 From: Sekerere@aol.com Subject: Vacation Time Well folks it is off to Zimbabwe and South africa in a couple of days. I am sadly going to unsubscribe from the list until we get back. I am temporarily cancelling my account with AOL to save a few dollars. Good Land Rovering everyone. Hope to hit some used parts places when I am in SA to try to piece together a few things for my "Anti-Christ" Series IIA. See you in July. Cheers Chris Whitehead 1966 Series IIA 88" "Anti-Christ" From Kelly Minnick Mon May 29 15:39:23 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 95 15:39:23 PDT From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Delco RE: Delco Alternators Surely there is someone out there who has converted their Lucas LR alt. to the Delco?? I have the double shive (sp?) pulley and have been grinding on the original mount, but can't get enough travel to adjust the alternator with a belt on it. Do I have to grind the motor mount to getthis to work? Please help me! Thanks. Kelly Minnick '73 88" Safari & '91 RR Ridgecrest, CA From Steven M Denis Mon May 29 18:45:18 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 18:45:18 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven M Denis Subject: lead is dead..... The use of a upper end lubricator is not a cure for un leaded fuel...I'm really not sure that it is a cure for anything.....If you have a proper test to prove that it helps with valve reccesion (like a twin marine set up one with and one w/o) fine, short of that I can only say that if you *feel* it works for you...that's great... Now, Most upper end lubricators inject oil into the gas/air mix..spiffy! but oil has a octane rating of about 45...so if you use enough oil to actually lubticate anything you will noticably lower the ocatne rating of the fuel...not a problem on the LPG set up as it is well over 100 to start with I think...but on 87 octane unleaded...oops! The problem is on the face and seat of the exhaust valve...so puting oil into the cylinder with that valve closed and then burning (we suppose) the oil before opening it again would lead one to suspect that it helps not a wit...the exhaust valve face actually welds itself to the seat in a very small way...several times a *second*...the cumulative effect is that the bits of metal are lost and the seat "sinks"..the lead used to coat the seats (and everything else, BTW) and this helped prevent the steel to steel contact....the hardened seats and valves are just too tough to weld... Unleaded engines are *CLEAN* inside at teardowm...that alone has got to be a plus Like the frog said, "It ain't easy bein' green" steve..... "HEY! NICE JEEP,MISTER!"..........."Look,Kid,it's a ..Oh never mind..." "NOTAJEEP"-1967 109 Station Wagon Steven M. Denis " "-1957 107 Station Wagon PO Box 296 " "-1964 109 Pickup Fulton, New York USA " "_1967 109 NADA SW 13069 From Craig Murray Tue May 30 9:03:29 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 95 9:03:29 EST From: Craig Murray Subject: Re: Prop-shaft lengths? > I just finished my conversion to put the SeriesIII 3.54 Salisbury rear > axle (off a Stage I) in my IIa 109. Now I know the diff nose is longer > on a Salisbury, so I got a SeriesIII propshaft too. > Low and behold, the shaft is TOO SHORT? The IIa shaft is clearly too > long (3"), and the III shaft _does_ work, but it's about 1" too short. > Enough spline engages to be safe, but not enough to let me tighten the > sealing-ring. > I don't think I have a special 110" chassis on my '66 109? > long (3"), and the III shaft _does_ work, but it's about 1" too short. Charlie, The Stage 1 has a longer transmission from memory, which could be the reason, also is the Series III propshaft off a six cylinder or four cylinder, as the propshafts are different lengths. -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! From Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com> 29 95 May EDT 1920 Date: 29 May 95 20:01:39 EDT From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com> Subject: Ser III Charge Light Hi all. Just when I thought I had things pretty much squared away in my 72 88 SW the gremlins are back. After a nice holiday drive I made a quick stop at a local store and noticed that after startup the charge light stayed on. The Rover made it home (as always) which was about 10 miles. Knowing that the wiring is not fully original I pulled the instrument panel and fuesbox apart to check for obvious problems. None were found and the wiring on the back of the generator seemed secure. The generator belt and pulley seem okay. While I had the panel pulled apart I started the engine and jiggled things with no effect. Then I cycled lights and heater fan a few times with no effect. Very shortly thereafter the charge light went out. I killed the engine and restarted it multiple times and all seems well. I buttoned the panel back up. Normally on startup I have to rev the engine above normal idle to get the charge light out then it stays out. Is this normal? Has anybody any insight as to what my charge light problem is (was)? As usual any help will be appreciated. Thanks Steve Rochna & gremlins From harincar@internet.mdms.com Mon May 29 21:25:28 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 21:25:28 -0500 From: harincar@internet.mdms.com Subject: Points & Oil filters Greetings, Last week I began a discussion regarding points, and how they seemed to sort of "work themselves out of adjustment". Thanks for everyones input; upon inspection, it appeared that everything was reassembled correctly (when having problems with a new part, its best to assume pilot error as the first main cause). Anyhow, I finally seemed to solve the problem by using a .022 gap in the points, rather than the Haynes' spec'd .014-.016. Interesting. Seems to run like a champ now. Anyone else use a "wide" point gap? I also purchased one of Rovers North's spin on oil filter adapters ($45) but havent put it on yet - any tips for getting the old can out and the new one on? I hated the can filters - call me a wuss, but I like to be able to change the oil quickly, often, and with as little mess as possible. The original can seemed to fit none of the criteria. RN sent a tech report from an old newsletter along with it which seemed to indicate in a field test that it performed as designed, with no leaks (!). Hope all the folks in the US had a good and safe holiday, Tim '66 IIa 88 SW --- tim harincar harincar@internet.mdms.com From "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com> 29 95 May EDT 1922 Date: 29 May 95 22:44:19 EDT From: "MARK C. RITTER" <70472.1130@compuserve.com> Subject: Torsen Diffs I have read several articles on the use of Torsen diffs in Land Rovers. I am trying to find out if these are a limited slip or locking diff. One of the articles indicated that the Camel Trophy disco's use these diffs (LRW june issue). Does anybody out there have any info on these diffs and if so do you have the name of the manufacturer. Mark Ritter 94 Disco From rziegler@sover.net (Richard Ziegler) Mon May 29 23:04:42 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 1995 23:04:42 -0400 From: rziegler@sover.net (Richard Ziegler) Subject: Steering & Unleaded gas Chris Whitehead asked what he should do about his engine head because of the need to use unleaded gasoline. Some people will say (and sell you) to use stellite valves and even stellite seats. NY state went to all unleaded gas many years ago. Thus, for many years I had installed stellite valves in all the heads that the Land Rover parts company I worked for would sell and all the engine rebuild jobs I did. However, in a number of articles I read about unleaded gas the engine problem that developed was valve seat recession. So I asked the fellow doing the machining for me whether we should also be putting in stellite seats. His answer was that our L/R engines were so low compression that we don't even have to be putting in stellite valves. Another point read in an automotive trade magazine: All the lead that is going to adhere to the valves and valve seats is deposited there in the 1st 1000 miles or so, therefore, those who have not done a valve job in less than 1000 mi. and have to use unleaded gasoline should feel free to use it without using additives. 2 yrs. and 9 months ago I did an engine rebuild on my '74 88 using regular valves and have continually used unleaded gasoline (it's all we get here in VT.) with no ill effects to date. _____ RR steering problem: Ken, as I would advise any L/R owner with a similar problem, check the steering out by having someone move the steering wheel back & forth through the free movement area while you watch the movement of the various steering components on the other side of the firewall. I would start at the steering box and work my way down to the chassis bushings. Look for any components not moving that should be moving and for any movement of a component that doesn't seem correct. This should get you started toward a remedy. Happy Rovering, Rich Ziegler, L/R mechanic '63 88 pet. (in pieces) '74 88 SIII HT pet. daily driver ***************************************************************** * 8-bits forever!! Rick Ziegler Atari's rule!! * ***************************************************************** From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Tue May 30 12:44:10 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 12:44:10 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Torsen Diffs > I have read several articles on the use of Torsen diffs in Land Rovers. I'd be interested in finding a supplier/part number for these. > I am trying to find out if these are a limited slip or locking diff. As I recall the Gleason Torsen diff is a torque biasing diff. (ie provides torque to the wheels in proportion to their ability to provide traction) I think they work on a worm-wheel principle (or is this the "dual-drive" I'm thinking of) Legend has it that they are muct nicer than a slippery as they provide the positive drive of a locker but still provide unhindered diff action. Rumoured to wear fast under racing conditions. Toygoata used one in the centre diff of the Wizz Bang Turbo celica's. Dont know much more..... -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) From steve gross Mon May 29 21:45:59 1995 Date: Mon, 29 May 95 21:45:59 PDT From: steve gross Subject: RE: Torsen Diffs I currently have a Gleason/Torsen in the rear diff of my Defender 90. I also have had the unit in my Range Rover. The device is a torque sensing unit that locks using spiral cut gears in place of the spider gear assembly. If you start to loose traction, it applies more torque to the slower turning wheel. If you get one wheel in the air, you need to apply brakes to get the unit to lock up. I understand that the Hummer uses this type of locking diff as well... I have an ARB airlocker in the front diff of the D90 also. I don't know where you can buy the units- I was given the units for evaluation by the Land Rover Vehicle Test Center here in Phoenix a while ago... -steve Stephen C. Gross Pilot B737 America West Airlines From JRBIRD@aol.com Tue May 30 01:06:53 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 01:06:53 -0400 From: JRBIRD@aol.com Subject: SUBSCRIBE I would be pleased to subscribe to your news group. Thankyou, Jay R. Altman Land Rover Seattle From Donald Abbot Tue May 30 10:44:29 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 10:44:29 +0200 (GMT+0200) From: Donald Abbot Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? Alan asked: > a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? The previous owner of my Series II, a pickup with a hardtop, built a wooden box which spans the inside of the roof just in front of one's forehead. The box drops about 12 cm from the roof about 30 cm from the join of the hardtop to the windscreen. Yes, people occasionally bump their heads against it. The box houses the stereo, the two front speakers, a cubbyhole and has the interior light attached underneath. The two rear speakers are housed in a similar, but larger, wooden box fitted in the equivalent position in the back of the Land Rover. The stereo is normally only used when doing long boring drives on tar. Recently I bought a walkman-type CD player and with all the attachments it gets played through the tape deck of the stereo. My problem is now to find a place to mount this in the vehicle. Added to the list of requirements is that the CD player has to be cushioned against bumps. Donald From "KING.B.P" Tue May 30 11:23:36 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 11:23:36 BST From: "KING.B.P" Subject: Military Vehicle Show Hi folks Over the bank-holiday and living in Portsmouth I went to the Military vehicle show on Southsea Common, so I thought I'd share a few observations with you all. In my opinion Land-Rovers were one of the most common vehicles present, with most varients present from S1 through to Defender 90 and 110. I would say the most common were lightweights. Here are some of the interesting ones One of the original factory built 'pink panthers' was present complete with all equipment. Interestingly there was also a IIA 109 fitted out similarly, apparently it had been a standard military LWB which had been converted for a mission by removing parts and adding some of the best ideas for the 'panther, apparently it was the only one of several made to return. It's named 'perky' as its not a 'pinky'. Several Land-Rover fire appliances were in attendance, slightly dwarfed by their larger brethren, including an 86" SI in good nick, a SII 109 with special rear bodywork, and an SIII hard top equipped as a rescue tender. The SI was seen tearing around the arena bell ringing during a display whilst the larger appliances drowned it out with sirens. Several FC101s were present in various conditions, the V8 still sounds nice. One was offered for sale, one of seven very good condition vehicles accidently released by the RAF, I can't afford it, but if anyone is interested contact the Ex-Military Land-Rover Association. I also noticed a couple of 1-tonne lwb SIII, these are standard lwb on uprated springs and fitted with 900 x 16 tyres (correct me if I'm wrong). One owner told me his was very economical, and almost unstoppable off road due to the increased ground clearance, mind you he did have a big pto powered drum winch up front. There were many other interesting Land-Rovers along with some other interesting machinery, but I don't want to get flamed for waffling and wasting band width. Suffice to say, if its as good next year and you are in the area, take a look. BPK Barry P King Student Dept Civil Engineering University of Portsmouth BE3_036@civl.port.ac.uk From Charlie Wright Tue May 30 15:32:14 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 15:32:14 +0059 (BST) From: Charlie Wright Subject: More propshaft: I had a thought about this propshaft problem. I didn't consider the gearbox. I've never looked at a Series III box, let alone compared them side by side. Does anyone have dimensions to hand? Is the Series III box longer (by about an inch) than the IIa box?.. at least from mounts to output flange? I'm suspecting this was my misassumption. Cheers, Charlie C. R. Wright Dept. of Genetics +44 (0)1223 333970 telephone Univ. of Cambridge +44 (0)1223 333992 telefax Downing Street, Cambs. cw117@mole.bio.cam.ac.uk CB2 3EH, England From RLZiegler@aol.com Tue May 30 11:39:16 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 11:39:16 -0400 From: RLZiegler@aol.com Subject: Change of address I have changed my address do to greater internet access from the new provider now available here in Rutland, VT. My new address is: rziegler@sover.net Happy Rovering, Rich Ziegler, L/R mechanic '63 88 pet. (in pieces) '74 88 SIII HT pet. daily driver From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Tue May 30 09:06:22 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 95 09:06:22 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Passed emissions! THANK YOU!!! FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Passed emissions! THANK YOU!!! Just wanted to let you know that I used this technique, and passed emissions! But, the carb is actually a Carter. I'd like to get the Webber, as the Carter is terrible on fuel. (around 10mpg). Anyone have a spare carburetor for an 88? Thanks again for your help! You're awesome! #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg) Tue May 30 12:37:01 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 12:37:01 -0400 From: berg@acf2.NYU.EDU (Jeff Berg) Subject: Re: Dumb question: Audio install in a SII? >If one were insane enough to want an audio system of some sort in >a Series IIa, where's the best place to put it? I'm insane enough and put the head unit for my stereo under the dash of my IIa just about centered on the shift knob when the Rover is in reverse. (Yes, have a Kodiak heater.) I had an aluminum enclosure bent to surround the unit, and use a hinged lexan "bubble" cover that I ordered from a marine supply catalog. A picture is available on the RoverWEB site: http://www.missouri.edu:80/RoverWeb/ Go to the page of my pictures and look at the panoramic shot of the dashboard. I'll be happy to answer any further questions. Regards. JAB == == Jeffrey A. Berg Interactive Telecommunications Program Technical Administrator New York University berg@acf2.nyu.edu ================= My garden is full of papayas and mangos. My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos. Taste for the good life. I can see it no other way. --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version) == == From "David McKain" Tue May 30 13:58:21 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 13:58:21 EDT From: "David McKain" Subject: Emissions This is just the start of a trial FAQ type document on emissions production and control. The information it contains will be based on internal combustion engine reference books and recommendations from experienced emissions test personnel. Please feel free to provide feedback both positive and negative. Gasoline/Petrol fueled engines Effect of Fuel/Air ratio on basic emissions One of the most important variables in determining engine emissions is fuel/air ratio. Normally, and engine operates at close to stochiometric conditions, that is, with a fuel/air ratio close to 1. Leaner mixtures will generally give lower emissions but may result in poor engine operation. During start up, when the engine is cold, fuel enrichment is normally used which results in an increase in Carbon Monoxide (CO) and Hydrocarbons (HC) and a decrease in Oxides of Nitrogen (NOX). As the engine warms up and enrichment is reduced, CO and HC will be reduced while NOX will increase. At part-load conditions, lean mixtures can be used to lower CO, HC, and NOX emissions, at least until combustion quality and thus engine performance deteriorate. One method of reducing NOX emissions is the use of Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) where a portion of the exhaust is feed back into the intake of the engine but this will also result in a deterioration of engine performance. Spark Timing Spark timing can significantly affect NOX emissions. Advancing the timing so that combustion occurrs earlier in the cycle increases the peak cyclinder pressure. This will result in higher peak cylinder temperatures and thus an increase in NOX formation. As I said, this is just a start. I am still gathering information and would appreciate any on emissions formation, emissions regulation (US, UK) and experiences with DOT and MOT inspection stations (especially ways to self regulate emissions in order to pass inspection). Please e-mail direct. This document will also include diesel engine information. David McKain 1966 SIIa Petrol mckain@faculty.coe.wvu.edu (304) 599-0120 Morgantown, WV USA From "Sean McInerney" 30 1995 May U 1912 Date: 30 May 1995 12:57:08 U From: "Sean McInerney" Subject: Engines Subject: Time: 12:53 PM OFFICE MEMO Engines Date: 05.30.95 Has anyone dealt directly with Turner Engineering from the United States and recieved shipment of one of their engines here? Does anyone have their address, telephone and FAX numbers? Sean C. McInerney 1963 SIIa 88" HT From Dixon Kenner Tue May 30 15:23:25 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 15:23:25 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner Subject: Re: Engines > Has anyone dealt directly with Turner Engineering from the United States and > recieved shipment of one of their engines here? Does anyone have their > address, telephone and FAX numbers? Yes and no. I have talked with Turner about an engine and am seriously considering one but have not actually purchased one yet. Now for the bad news... Turner has entered into an exclusive arrangement with Rovers North for their engines. To quote Turner, after they suggested I phone RN up and I declined, "Well, you're in Canada so you can buy directly from us. If you lived in the USA you would have to buy from Rovers North." For me, dealing with RN for the engine is out of the question. The Northern Peso, aka the Canadian Dollar is at a 40% disadvantage to the Greenback. Besides there is a price difference. From memory, the Turner high performance 2.25l 3 main bearing engine would set me back US$1,900 (approx.) at my door. The engine at RN I believe (and it might be the 5 bearing, not sure) is US$2,900 at their doorstep. So, living in the USA all you need is Rovers North's phone and fax number [802-879-0032 and 802-879-9152 respectively] or find a friend in Canada to buy it for you for your birthday. If you are interested, I have all the UK prices around here somewhere. Prices are including the core charge. It just isn't worth sending a dead 2.25l engine back. Also bear in mind that these engine do not include distributor, generator/alternator etc. Shipping (by sea) is 150 pounds to Ottawa. Rgds, From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Tue May 30 12:29:13 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 95 12:29:13 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: 2.25l Unleaded Head Check In message <199505271622.JAA27176@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us> Jeremy Bartlett writes: > Can anyone out there tell me how I'd determine if a 2.25l petrol engine > has had the head rebuilt for use with unleaded fuel? look at the valve seats. It the seat is part of the head the answer is no. If the seats as inserts the answer is yes. Having valve seats put on doesn't add a lot to the cost of a valve job. My LR went several years on unleaded without hardened seats before the engine gave out. But I do not do much driving in the heat. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 30 95 May EDT 1915 Date: 30 May 95 15:58:48 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Unleaded Gas Don't know how often I posted this, must begin to bore people... *I've-driven-my-S.III-109-for-7-years-and-100,000 km-on-unleaded-and-never- had-problems* All lead-challenged please file this for future reference. Stefan From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 30 95 May EDT 1915 Date: 30 May 95 15:58:42 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Prop-shaft lengths? > I just finished my conversion to put the SeriesIII 3.54 Salisbury rear ... > Low and behold, the shaft is TOO SHORT? The IIa shaft is clearly too > long (3"), and the III shaft _does_ work, but it's about 1" too short. It *could* be that you're stuck with the rear propshaft of a 109 6-cyl. which, since the gearbox sits a good 2" further back, is shorter than that of a 109 4-cyl. Just a thought. Stefan From Benjamin Allan Smith Tue May 30 13:45:25 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 13:45:25 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith Subject: Re: Unleaded Gas Stephen Jacob wrote: > Don't know how often I posted this, must begin to bore people... > *I've-driven-my-S.III-109-for-7-years-and-100,000 km-on-unleaded-and-never- > had-problems* My SIII lasted 30,000 miles before the valves gave up the ghost of life on two of the cylinders. During this time included extended running in ambient temps of 90 to 100 degrees F. Obviously your mileage may vary. -Benjamin Smith ---------------- Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil 1972 Land Rover Series III 88 From "TeriAnn Wakeman" Tue May 30 14:20:48 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 95 14:20:48 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Bolts needed I think its about time to replace the bolts on my front hubs. One was broken for longer than I have owned the car & has been RTVed in place each time I removed & replaced the bolts. Others are streached. The dreaded previous owner must have liked to tighten things down. The bolts I need are 4 inches long, have the same thread dia as an american 3/8 bolt, but is a wintworth fine thread and threads into the front hubs of a series IIA Land Rover. I would like to get hardened bolts. I need 12 of these. Can anyone help?? Does anyone know the length of bolts for the warren or Fairy locking hubs? In case anyone is curious, my locking hubs are: Power%lock%hub made by the Cutlas Tool and Mfg. Co. in Lyons, Ill. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com From "Russell G. Dushin" Tue May 30 17:57:54 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 95 17:57:54 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Unleaded head > Presumably this has also been the case in the UK and US, with much talk > over the years in LRO about unleaded conversions for LR products. Here in the States (northeastern ones, anyway) we have not been able to buy leaded fuel since the early eighties. > The exhaust gases from unleaded are so toxic that it should not be used > in lawn mowers/grass trimmers etc without some sort of face mask. Yeah, well, tell that to Nader. > Studies have shown (I'm not sure I believe this one) that lead emissions > from vehicle exhausts are actually fairly harmless due to the lead having > been modified by heat into an inert(?) form. Probably Lead sulfides or somesuch...harmless, totally harmless, now get back to work! > So before you convert your LR to unleaded do a little research and ask > yourself if you are really doing the environment a favour. If you do, > then go the whole hog and invest lots of $$$ in a converter as well. Surely, nobody is converting out of desire....more out of (presumed) neccessity. Even then, all that anyone in their *right* mind is doing is putting in hardened valve seats. Anyone who has gone to the trouble and expen$e of putting on a catalytic has the sense not to mention it in this forum! rgds,/rd/nigel From "Russell G. Dushin" Tue May 30 18:06:50 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 95 18:06:50 EDT From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Unleaded Gas > are several variations in the stores. One Land Rover mechanic I know > recommended Stewart Warner's "CD-2". I have no idea if this stuff really works, I use this stuff (when I can find it), but BEWARE.....the same folks market another gas additive product in the exact same bottle with a similar label. In these parts, it is the latter bottle that is usually on the shelves...... wouldn't ya know, rd/nigel ps the jury (the one in my head) is still out on whether it works or not. From Craig Murray Wed May 31 8:53:29 1995 Date: Wed, 31 May 95 8:53:29 EST From: Craig Murray Subject: Re: More propshaft: > I had a thought about this propshaft problem. I didn't consider the > gearbox. I've never looked at a Series III box, let alone compared them > side by side. Does anyone have dimensions to hand? Is the Series III box > longer (by about an inch) than the IIa box?.. at least from mounts to > output flange? I'm suspecting this was my misassumption. No they are the same length, as they are interchangable. I think you will find that it is a 6 cylinder propshaft. -- ============================================================================== Craig Murray | 1955 Series 1 86" LROC of Victoria Australia | 2.25 diesel LROC of Gippsland Victoria Australia | My car is constipated, email: craigp@ocs.cpsg.com.au | It has not passed a | thing all day!! From LANDROVER@delphi.com Tue May 30 22:59:31 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 22:59:31 -0400 (EDT) From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Subject: Re: Delco Kelly sez.... > to the Delco?? I have the double shive (sp?) pulley and have been > grinding on the original mount, but can't get enough travel to adjust > the alternator with a belt on it. Which way are you having the problems... front-to-back (can't get all the pulley's to line up) or side-to-side (belt tension adjustment)? I mounted a Delco on a IIa (originally equipped with a generator) using a bracket someone made. I also had to mount the adjusting bracket to a differant point on the engine. The bracket takes care of the front-to-back alignment. As far as the tension adjustment, you'll probably need to get a differant length belt. Cheers Mike From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Tue May 30 23:15:27 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 23:15:27 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Lead, heads, etc. WRT the thread on leaded/unleaded petrol, the lead performs several functions besides increasing the octane rating. Most importantly, it microscopically lubricates/cushions the valves/seats/guides. Unleaded fuel is designed to burn leaner with some residual oxygen. (Some cars have an 'air pump' to inject oxygen into the exhaust flow.) This oxygen in the exhaust stream will result in high-speed gas cutting - functioning much like an acetylene cutting torch. Valve recession is the result. Stellite valves resist this cutting action. The only real way to check to see if the PO fitted stellite valves is to take the head off and check them with a magnet. Stellite is *very* weakly magnetic, unlike the carbon steel of common valves. (PS - Be sure to fit hardened seats as well.) Lead replacement products like "ReLead" which is available in marine supply stores is a temporary fix...as is the Ampco vapor lubricator. In reality, leaded/unleaded shouldn't be much of a worry unless you do a lot of Interstate or high-speed driving. On Zenith carbs...there is no "mixture" screw. Only the throttle stop and slow running or idle screws. To change the mixture, one has to fit different diameter jets. Bill Maloney mentioned the problem with the carb halves not mating perfectly...an endemic problem in the Zenith production line because they did not stress relieve the parts after casting. Place some 400 grit carborundum paper on a flat glass plate, and with a bit of oil and swirling motions, grind equal amounts off both halves of the carb. Good luck. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Tue May 30 23:15:07 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 23:15:07 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Camel Trophy Daily Logs Now, whre was I? Last Friday, I was attempting to get out of town for some work on the Appalachian Trail and some at Mike McCaig's Penlan Farm, site of the Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally. However, the local service provider was physically moving their office and the two servers must not have like the move - they collapsed. Anyway, things are (supposedly) back to (ab)normal and here's the latest from the Camel Trophy. Thursday, May 25 - The team was roused at 4 AM for a 5 AM departure from the Ixcan Rio archaeological site, and following a 10 km hike back to the Rio Azul, they were eager to get back on the trail. Despite that there is only one track out of the biological reserve (second only in size to the Amazon), it was blocked by over a hundred downed trees. The process of clearing trail reduced the convoy's formard pace to about 12 km/hr, but the chance to work together on the road brought out a united team spirit. After driving through the Tikal National Park, camp that night was to be on the shores of Lake Peten Itza. Friday, May 26th - This was to be a day-long special challenge: the goal was to for two teams of ten countries each to get their vehicles across about 400 meters of the crocodile-infested Lake Peten Itza to the opposite, swampy shore. On previous events, a special rafting unit would do the ferrying, but here, it was up to the teams themselves to construct the rafts, man the vessels and build entrance/exit ramps on the lake shores. >From the minute they were given the start signal, Team One (consisting of Spain, Turkey, Canary Islands, Czech Republic, Germany, Israel, Russia, South Africa and the US) worked as if they had been together for years. Within 40 minutes, they were transporting vehicles to the other side; Team 2 never caught up. However, once on the other side, they still had to get vehicles across the swamp at the lake's shore, a task accomplished with sand ladders. Team One finished 15 minutes ahead with an elapsed time of four hours. Saturday and Sunday - "...and now for something completely different." In the past 15 events, the Camel Trophy convoy had always traveled as a unit. However, from Friday evening until late Sunday, the teams got to chose their own route over 750 km of rutted track. There were only three check points and a final destination of at the Rio Ostua border crossing into El Salvador. "If we had been on tarmac, then it might have been easy," said Jim Swett of the US team, "but the options of roads we were given were all in bad, bad condition. One section just out of Flores took us all night. For me, it was the worst road in the world." Monday, May 29th- After crossin into El Salvador, the team drove to the Montecristo Reserve 2,500 meters up into the highlands. There, the team was to attend the dedication of a research facility that had been funded (rahter than built, as in previous years) by the Camel Trophy. By nightfall on Monday, the team was to recross into Guatamela before entering Honduras Tuesday morning. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* From gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Tue May 30 21:03:58 1995 Date: Tue, 30 May 1995 21:03:58 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: Torsen Diffs Mark Ritter asks: >I have read several articles on the use of Torsen diffs in Land Rovers. I am >trying to find out if these are a limited slip or locking diff. One of the >articles indicated that the Camel Trophy disco's use these diffs (LRW june >issue). Does anybody out there have any info on these diffs and if so do you >have the name of the manufacturer. The Torsen diff is "torque sensing" hence the name. It is a limited slip but with an intirely different twist, if you'll parden the pun. It does not use clutches but has a worm gear/worm wheel arrangement relying on the principle that a worm gear will turn a worm wheel but not vice versa. How much the slip is limited is a function of the angle of the spiral on the worm. At least this is all what I've read. I don't fully understand the principles myself. The Torsen diff was originally made by Gleason Works and was called Gleason-Torsen but I understand that someone else is making it now. Cheers, Granville From kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Mon May 30 23:25:38 1994 Date: Mon, 30 May 1994 23:25:38 -0500 From: kgb@tigger.cc.uic.edu (Ken Berliner) Subject: My '89 RR Rich, Thanks for the input. Be sure I'll have another question once I do what you said... The rennovation of my '89 RR is progressing - slowly. I thought I'd share what I learned today for those of you who might be interested. The first thing I learned today is that the diodes in the rear defroster circuit