From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Apr 4 01:20:20 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1993 22:02:42 -0500 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec writes: > I still need to get the finished engine & transfer case home (engine > would not fit into the MGB). Sure it would... Might cause a dent or two if dropped, but it should snuggle into the boot, if the lid is kept open. Transmission? Well it could probably fit... errr, well... You may have a point. But to get a spare Mini engine home, I pulled the passenger seat so it would fit. > I limped the MG the last 60 miles home over the mount range, & put the > compression gauge on it. 150, 5 147. 147. Hmmm, rings or valves, or worse yet, a bit hole in the piston. Yuck... > Only problem right now is I do not have a way to get the engine & transfer > case home :*( Know anyone with another 4x4 or a van? The engine and transmission are not that heavy. A couple of weeks ago we moved three of them. Two of us could drag it far enought to lift it into a waiting LR. The dead engine here we were able to move about. Just declare hunting season open, and go off in search of a couple of volunteers. I generally find the sound of an opening beer generally attracts them like black flies in the bush to unprotected humans. > (To the tune of three blind mice) > Three dead cars, Three dead cars, > See how they sit, see how the sit, > There was only suposed to be one down at a time > but three dead cars, .... Cute... :-) The Rabbit here is in serious need of a tune-up, but lack the time to do it, needing it as daily transportation. As we just got another foot of snow, it shall be a little while before the Mini will venture out. Hmmm, maybe the Cortina should be resuerected... BTW, to keep you up to date on climatic changes in the Canadian Spring, snow is expected to fall for the next three days... When is vehicle number three expected to hit the pavement? It has been up on stands for a while now. It is beginning to sound if you operate at about the same speed as I do... :-) Little progress on my little beast right now. Somehow I put my back out, so getting out of bed has been a painful enough task. This sounds suspicious. You hit a snag, giving me an opportunity to pull ahead, and I injure myself, keeping the distance constant. Not very fair... :-( Oh yeah, some LR content is probably in order. On Saturday I was momentarily dismayed when it came to put the water temperature sensor back into the head. It wouldn't fit!? I noticed that the adapter looked different from the one on the original engine (it has "1 64" cast on the head). So I pulled the adapter on the new engine (head has "12 63" cast into it next to the valve cover) and replaced it with the one from the other engine. Problem solved, but it was interesting that the temperature sensor would have changed size ("12 63" head has a smaller diameter hole in the adapter that the "1 64" head). It worried me for a moment, considering the old adapter would not fit into the replacement head. Cleaning the threads all round did help. It was then that I noticed that the adapter threads in the "11 63" head were smaller, yet it was placed in a hole that was otherwise too big. The "1 64" adapter is a male-male with a hex head-type arrangement in the centre. The "12 63" is male-female, with the external piece being rounded with two opposing flat surfaces to place a spanner on. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Apr 4 01:20:26 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1993 22:02:42 -0500 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec writes: > I still need to get the finished engine & transfer case home (engine > would not fit into the MGB). Sure it would... Might cause a dent or two if dropped, but it should snuggle into the boot, if the lid is kept open. Transmission? Well it could probably fit... errr, well... You may have a point. But to get a spare Mini engine home, I pulled the passenger seat so it would fit. > I limped the MG the last 60 miles home over the mount range, & put the > compression gauge on it. 150, 5 147. 147. Hmmm, rings or valves, or worse yet, a bit hole in the piston. Yuck... > Only problem right now is I do not have a way to get the engine & transfer > case home :*( Know anyone with another 4x4 or a van? The engine and transmission are not that heavy. A couple of weeks ago we moved three of them. Two of us could drag it far enought to lift it into a waiting LR. The dead engine here we were able to move about. Just declare hunting season open, and go off in search of a couple of volunteers. I generally find the sound of an opening beer generally attracts them like black flies in the bush to unprotected humans. > (To the tune of three blind mice) > Three dead cars, Three dead cars, > See how they sit, see how the sit, > There was only suposed to be one down at a time > but three dead cars, .... Cute... :-) The Rabbit here is in serious need of a tune-up, but lack the time to do it, needing it as daily transportation. As we just got another foot of snow, it shall be a little while before the Mini will venture out. Hmmm, maybe the Cortina should be resuerected... BTW, to keep you up to date on climatic changes in the Canadian Spring, snow is expected to fall for the next three days... When is vehicle number three expected to hit the pavement? It has been up on stands for a while now. It is beginning to sound if you operate at about the same speed as I do... :-) Little progress on my little beast right now. Somehow I put my back out, so getting out of bed has been a painful enough task. This sounds suspicious. You hit a snag, giving me an opportunity to pull ahead, and I injure myself, keeping the distance constant. Not very fair... :-( Oh yeah, some LR content is probably in order. On Saturday I was momentarily dismayed when it came to put the water temperature sensor back into the head. It wouldn't fit!? I noticed that the adapter looked different from the one on the original engine (it has "1 64" cast on the head). So I pulled the adapter on the new engine (head has "12 63" cast into it next to the valve cover) and replaced it with the one from the other engine. Problem solved, but it was interesting that the temperature sensor would have changed size ("12 63" head has a smaller diameter hole in the adapter that the "1 64" head). It worried me for a moment, considering the old adapter would not fit into the replacement head. Cleaning the threads all round did help. It was then that I noticed that the adapter threads in the "11 63" head were smaller, yet it was placed in a hole that was otherwise too big. The "1 64" adapter is a male-male with a hex head-type arrangement in the centre. The "12 63" is male-female, with the external piece being rounded with two opposing flat surfaces to place a spanner on. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 5 11:10:14 1993 Return-Path: Date: Mon, 5 Apr 93 15:55:43 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: 2 questions 2 monday mornin' questions for ya- 1) Nigel (my '60 series II '88) has this tendancy to light up his oil warning lamp after running for about 15 minutes. The lamp can be convinced to dim and oftimes go out completely, but only after the pressure on the oil gauge (that appears to function normally) reaches about 95 psi or so (the lamp does not come on until a) the engine is warm, and b) the oil pressure has dropped below 80psi). Someone else posted this same question about 9 months ago, but I failed to keep the answer, and it was before Nigel flashed his warnings at me. I think TerriAnn posted the solution. 2) RN (easy on the bad press....they are at the least a fun bunch of blokes that are always willing to offer sound advice and hey-everybody's gotta make a living somehow) is now offering a "special" on galvanized frames. For an '88 (for my "fieldstoned '88" ?) the price is $1750 US. Any Canadian or UK prices out there?? RN's most recent normal price on a galvanized chassis is $1895 (it has come down with the pound and with the fact that they bought a bunch of them). rdushin/nigel From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 5 12:42:36 1993 Return-Path: Date: Mon, 5 Apr 93 10:33:31 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding Dixon, Do take care of your back! No car is worth causing perminate back damage. I was hoping to have the TR3 on the road in time for the convention in Seattle this summer. But the demise of the Land Rover, followed by the demise of of the MGBGT (my daily transportation) has changed my priorities. Since the MGB can limp the 10 or so miles to the van pool pickup point, it is still in service & the Land Rover has become #1 priority. If things work out OK & Scotty gets back from the UK Wed., and I am able to pick up the engine Sat, I intend to have the LR back on the road before I go back to work at the end of the week end. The new Series III radiator arrived last Thursday. Compaired to the old one it is unipressive. The top resavour looks smaller, there is no built in drain, and no place to anchor the chain that keeps the radiator cap from getting lost. I do not know how the cores compare, but it sure looks like it was for lite duty work. On a sreies III is there a separate anchor place for the chain to the radiator cap somewhere off the radiator? Is there an overflow tank that is part of the resavour? Is the radiator really more lite duty than from an early series IIA? Over the weekend, since I did not have an engine to install, I took the radiator bulkhead and shroud down to bare metal, derusted them and repainted them. After 33 years the original paint was just a memory and serious pitting was starting. Not anymore! Once the LR is on the road, I'll pull the head on the MG & get it fixed. Once the MG is on the road, I'll get5 back to the TR3. I only need 3 clear days to get the interior of the car (including boot and engine compartment ) painted. Then I can start assembling it. Its a shame I really do not like working on cars, thay have been giving me an awful lot of oppertunity lately. If I could only afford to have someone else do the work ... My engine lies over the mountain, My engine lies by the delta My engine is ready to come home, Oh bring back my engine to me, to me, Bring back, oh bring back, oh bring back my engine to me to me ... TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 5 13:30:31 1993 Return-Path: Date: Mon, 5 Apr 93 11:21:36 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu Subject: Re: 2 questions Dushin, The only oil pressure solution I may have posted was for the oil light coming on when you stop and you are about a quart of oil low. This happens when the 'O' ring between the oil pickup and the input to the oil pump is bad, and letting air in when the 'O' ring's hole is above the oil level, Cure, drop the pan and replace the 'O' ring. You obviously have another problem. The first thing i would do is find out if your guage or light is right. 95 PSI seems awfully high. Mine ran at 50ish & idled at 25ish (of course this was after 200K+ mi). I would hook in a differnent guage & see what it reads. If the guages read the same, I would swap out the sender for the light. If I were to have a wild guess, I would guess, your guage runs way high & you have a problem in your oil system. Of course I could guess that your light sensor is bad and your oil pressure system is on staroids. Another guess is that the pressure relief system in the oil pump housing is malfunctioning, and the resulting high pressure took out the oil light sender unit. Please varify the oil pressure. TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 5 14:31:35 1993 Return-Path: Date: Mon, 5 Apr 93 11:21:36 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu Subject: Re: 2 questions Dushin, The only oil pressure solution I may have posted was for the oil light coming on when you stop and you are about a quart of oil low. This happens when the 'O' ring between the oil pickup and the input to the oil pump is bad, and letting air in when the 'O' ring's hole is above the oil level, Cure, drop the pan and replace the 'O' ring. You obviously have another problem. The first thing i would do is find out if your guage or light is right. 95 PSI seems awfully high. Mine ran at 50ish & idled at 25ish (of course this was after 200K+ mi). I would hook in a differnent guage & see what it reads. If the guages read the same, I would swap out the sender for the light. If I were to have a wild guess, I would guess, your guage runs way high & you have a problem in your oil system. Of course I could guess that your light sensor is bad and your oil pressure system is on staroids. Another guess is that the pressure relief system in the oil pump housing is malfunctioning, and the resulting high pressure took out the oil light sender unit. Please varify the oil pressure. TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 6 05:45:40 1993 Return-Path: From: Mike Rooth Subject: Some answers To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Tue, 6 Apr 93 11:38:01 BST Dushin, For what it's worth,I agree with TeriAnn over the oil pressure problem. It is relatively easy to put strain on a gauge so it lies in its teeth, and 95psi is way too high.The oil pressure relief valve should open long before these sort of pressures are reached.Sounds as though you need a new oil pressure switch,(the cheapest first step).I had this oil light problem after the rebiuld on my diesel.Damn thing kept winking at traffic lights etc.Replaced the switch....all OK.I dismantled the old switch out of curiosity,and found that the oil had got round the edge of the diaphragm of the switch,thus creating pressure on the wrong side,so the pessure on the "live steam" side had to be fairly high to overcome it. Chassis prices,well,heres one or two SWB standard quality,sprayed black,500 pounds Ditto standard thickness,top quality 564pounds Ditto Heavy duty,Electro primed,dipped black,top quality 640pounds Finally,Heavy duty,Dipped Galvanised,top quality 700puonds. All from the same firm. Dont ask me what they mean by "standard quality...etc"though,I havent a clue. TeriAnn,(again for what its worth)your new rad is what we get.Mine had a new rad on shortly before I bought it,and there isnt anywhere to cain the cap to,in fact on late 11A's like mine,there never was,I dont think.Also there isnt any drain tap,or plug.These tended to sieze up,and efforts to get them to work ripped the whole doings out of the bottom header.So they stopped putting them in.Whats worse,is that mine lost it's fan cowl in the process,and there doesnt appear to be anywhere to attach it even if I had it!How about you? Regards Mike Rooth 88" 11A 2.25 diesel From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 6 11:03:30 1993 Return-Path: Date: Tue, 6 Apr 93 08:55:06 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Some answers Mike, I have not looked for a fan cowl attacment point. I just assumed they were there. I hope they are I just took it down to bare metal and repainted it last weekend. There better be a place for me to attach it too! My LR is going to be an odd looking beast when it gets back together. The body itself needs repainting badly. From the factory it was white. Early in its life the outside was painted Land Rover green followed by a cheap medium green that went over the galvinized parts. This is long before I purchased her in '78. Around '82 someone walked the length of the left side with a propane torch and blistered the paint. The whole thing is peeling and most of the paint has fallen off the galvanized surfaces, with a little help over the years. She is in line behind finishing the TR3 and an overhaul of the front suspension on the MGB for a paint job. I hope to have it done, but like so many things I suspect that right after I get an estimate, I'll be out there with sand paper. Anyway, she will be her shabby appearing self except for this shiny newly painted radiator bulkhead and new bumper. Pop the bonnet and you would see a shinny freshly painted engine (LR green) with black accents, shinny new radiator, and freshly refinished front frame. Now if only Scotty and his wife get back from the UK OK, and my transfer case is ready along with my engine, I can drop the engine in next weekend & hook everything together. With fingers crossed, TeriAnn Hmmmm I now have this extra LR intake manifold, I wonder if the size is close enough to allow me to have the head side of the LR intake welded to the carb side of my spare TR3 manifold? I could convert my LR to run on a pair of SUs :*) From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 6 16:36:14 1993 Return-Path: Date: Tue, 6 Apr 93 21:28:23 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: too high Mike and TerriAnn- Thanks for the advice....I will try getting a generic gauge on it and/or just replace the switch. As for the 95psi-it will actually get to about that pressure, but only if I'm down less than 1/2 quart and only when cranking higher rpms. The "normal" operating pressure appears to be in the 55-80psi range (roughly 11 to 1ish on my gauge-if I remember correctly). These values are APPROXIMATE, and I will check them to get a closer reading this evening. Also, it appears that my pressure releif valve does work since I do find that the pressure does top-out (and I have not seen it go over 100psi ever) eventually. rdushin/nigel From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 00:41:43 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: vaccuum advance... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1993 18:12:14 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Does the vaccuum advance on the distributor actually affect performance or is it for emission control? Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 00:55:32 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: spark plug wires From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1993 22:50:22 -0500 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec A question... It seems that I don't have a clue to determining which spot on the disrtibutor cap is for the number one cyliner and the general order inwhich the wires are supossed to to. Any one have a quick chart or diagram that they could send? Thx, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 04:36:29 1993 Return-Path: From: Mike Rooth Subject: Ignition Problems To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 10:30:14 BST Dixon, The vacuum advance definitely affects performance.Once,long ago,in the mists of time and totally leaded petrol,this was a lever on the steering column which you waggled about to produce either pulling power on hills or speed on the flat.I think it is advance the spark for going up hills, and retard for the flat,but it could be the other way round.Anyway,it *is* important. As for the other problem,rotate the engine by hand until no 1 cyl is at, or nearly at,TDC on the compression stroke.The rotor arm should then be pointing to no 1 plug lead.Connect up.The firing order is,I think,1 3 4 2. Since you know the dirction of rotation of the rotor arm,you can now connect up the others in order. Any help? Mike Rooth From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 04:39:18 1993 Return-Path: From: Steve Methley Subject: Re: vaccuum advance... To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 10:33:32 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Dixon asks: > Does the vaccuum advance on the distributor actually affect performance or > is it for emission control? Here's my understanding: The vaccuum advance does nothing at idle or WOT (wide open throttle). At WOT the centrifugal advance gives all the advance the engine can take, at idle the advance is a minimum for a good clean burn. Where the vaccuum advance comes into play is at part throttle where it gives an extra advance over the ever present centrifugal advance to aid the efficient combustion of what is usually designed to be a weakish mixture for economy reasons. The engine respnsiveness at part load is thus dependant on the vaccuum advance. So in summary the vaccuum advance is for economy and drivability. Racers usually dispense with it altogether and run centrifugal only (but they also change fuel metering and the centrifugal advance curve). Hope this helps, Steve. (V8 AP) From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 06:11:33 1993 Return-Path: From: Mike Rooth Subject: SU's To: twakeman@apple.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 12:04:49 BST Teriann, Funny how great minds thinkalike:-).I've been idly wondering about the feasibility of fitting SU's to the 2.25 petrol,too.Given that most folk say that the Solex and Zenith have all the fuel metering properties of the average garden hose,and that the Weber conversion is said to give improved economy at the expense of performance,*someone*must have fitted SU's surely?I once met a bloke that claimed (note the wording there)to have fitted a single SU.He used a flanged cast elbow fitting that bolted onto the inlet manifold in place of the stock carb,the other,vertical,face accepting an SU.He showed me an example of the elbow.He claimed 25mpg when towing a trailer loaded with a car,(he ran a recovery business in conjunction with his garage business)at speeds of up to 50mph.What he *didnt* say was what the SU came off in the first place,or what jet/needle combinations he used. I suppose it wouldnt be *too* difficult to get an inlet manifold fabricated for twins,with a balance pipe like my MGA used to have (long since sold),but what about the manifold hot spot?Is it a hole in the exhaust manifold,or what? One can but wonder........ Mike Rooth (with a 2.25 diesel to which carbs are not relevant,any more than is performance.What performance?) From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 06:52:32 1993 Return-Path: To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: SU Carbs Date: Wed, 07 Apr 93 11:45:59 GMT From: scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com Mike Rooth asks about the fitting of SU carbs to a 2 1/4 engine. I fitted an SU to my old IIA Station Wagon, using a cast alloy elbow I got as part of a kit from a non-franchised dealer in Land Rovers. Although the performance and fuel economy were better than with the standard (Zenith, I think) carb, I had terribly problems running when cold. Although the engine started fine, the mixture control provided by the choke was far too radical -- to get it to idle I had to set the choke far too rich for running, and to be able to drive it the choke had to be set too lean for it to idle. Result: stalling at every light until the engine was warm, or puffing black smoke. The obvious reason for this is using the wrong jet/needle, and yet this was a kit sold specifically for this engine, and so presumably should have been correct. Ran it for 5 years, never did get it right.... Simon. From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 08:47:11 1993 Return-Path: Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 13:40:57 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: correction sorry folks-my "to the best of my recollection" estimate of gauge pressures was way off (perhaps I should've evoked the response of an X-president I'd rather forget who, upon questioning in the Iran-Contra affair, simply stated "to the best of my recollection, I do not recall"). The oil light comes ON a) once the engine has run 15 mins or so, and b) after the gauge pressure drops below about 65 psi (not 85 psi). It will go off after the pressure reaches about 75 psi (not 95 psi), and normal operating pressure is in the 40-75 psi range. I imagine none of your helpful suggestions will have changed, but your (my) concerns about excessive pressure may now be alleviated. thanks, rdushin From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 11:04:35 1993 Return-Path: Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 08:56:37 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu Subject: Re: too high Dushin, there is a difference between the pressure relief working eventually and working correctly. Droping the pan and checking it out is not a big deal. It probably wouldn't hurt just to replace the ball, spring and intake 'O' ring just as an excercise. You might even find that you have headed off a potential disaster. How many miles are on the oil pump (LR if the engine has not been rebuilt)??? TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 11:21:42 1993 Return-Path: Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 09:12:23 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: vaccuum advance... Dixon, The vacume advance was on cars before the SMOG was coined as a word. The faster the engine runs, the sooner the spark needs to ignite the air fuel mixture. If it doesn't work, and you set your timing correctly, the engine would start & idle OK and would seem normal ar lower revs. You just wouldn't have as much power at higher RPMs & the engine would 'run out of steam'. If the advance was stuck in the advanced position, the car would be hard to start and possibly even pop through the carb. You want it connected and you want it working. You should be able to create a vacume by sucking on the tube connected to the distributer's vacume advance. If its like sucking through an open ended straw, you need a new diaphram. If you have the distributer cap off, you should be able to see the plate the points are mounted on move. I believe the LR distributer has both a mechanical and vacume advance. TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 11:26:59 1993 Return-Path: Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 09:17:49 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: spark plug wires The order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2. Your rotor may have a little arrow on it pointing the direction it moves. If you can figgure out where 1 is, follow the above firing order in the direction of the arrow. Hopefully, someone has a LR in the parking lot & can give better directions. Good luck, TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 11:38:33 1993 Return-Path: Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 09:30:26 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk, lro@transfer.stratus.com, twakeman@apple.com Subject: Re: SU's Mike, I was thinking of SUs from the TR3/4 engine. The displacement with 87mm pistons is about the same as the LR petrol engine. My TR3 is going back together with DCOE Webbers ... Hmmm I pick up a spare DCOE at an autojumble for a song. I wonder if .... My TR3 got good power and milage off the SUs and the port locations can't be too far off. I will probably look into it. I'm sure others in the US will think I've gone totally bonkers. The original Solex lost a part I can not replace (the little elbow pipe), I've been using a Rodchester single venturi that uses a bit too much petrol. The new engine comes with a Zeneth. Rumor has it that they are poor carbs. Hmmmm TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 11:47:47 1993 Return-Path: Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 09:39:59 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, scrl@hplb.hpl.hp.com Subject: Re: SU Carbs Simon, I was thinking of duel SUs jetted for a TR3 with 87mm pistons. It and theLand Rover engine have about the same displacement, and the jets have long since been fuggured out for it. I was thinking of ether adapting a TR3/4 intake manafold or welding parts of LR & TR manafolds together. i have had a headder on the LR since '78 so do have the hot part of the stock manafold. I suspect the sharp bends in the manifold and adaptor may have been the cause of the problems you had running cold. It would be an interesting experiment. A pair of 40 DCOEs might be interesting too. nagh TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 16:54:45 1993 Return-Path: >From: Benjamin Smith To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Spark Plug Wires Reply-To: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu Date: Wed, 07 Apr 93 14:50:13 PDT From: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu >It seems that I don't have a clue to determining which spot on the >disrtibutor cap is for the number one cyliner and the general order inwhich >the wires are supossed to to. Any one have a quick chart or diagram that >they could send? For the 4 cylinder 2.25 liter Rover engine the firing order is 1342. What I do is get the engine into to dead center. Rolling the Rover while in 4th gear, or using the crank is handy for this. Use a screwdriver down the number 1 cylinder sparkplug hole to feel for when the #1 cylinder is at its maximum height. Then look at the distributer rotor. It is either pointing at #1 or #4. Assume that the rotor is pointing at #1. Put that lead in the corresponding slot of the distributor cap. Check to see which way the rotor rotates by moving the Rover while still in gear. I believe the rotor moves counter clockwise, but I'm not sure. Finish putting in the leads in the 1342 pattern. Try to start the Rover. If the Rover doesn't start swap the leads around (swap1 and 4 then swap 2 and 3). The site of the number 1 spark plug lead is determined by the drive gear which is under the distributer. The drive gear is held in by a grubscrew which is hidden under the plate that the oil filter attaches to. If the drive gear is installed incorrectly the number one spark plug lead could be from any of the four holes in the distributer cap. When everything is installed correctly I believe the #1 spark plug wire should be coming from the part of the distributer closest to the radiator. I made the error of purchasing a rebuilt shortblock from Atlantic British and they put my drive gear in 120 degrees out of phase. Of course I detected this after the engine was completeley installed and wouldn't start. Another questions about sparkplug leads and the distributer... My CB radio is picking up a lot of interferance from the engine, which I assume is from the the points, distributer or spark plug wires. It there any way I can quiet this electrical noise in the CB band? -Benjamin Smith ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu 1972 Land Rover Series III 88 From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 17:23:22 1993 Return-Path: To: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wires In-Reply-To: ranger's message of Wed, 07 Apr 93 14:50:13 -0800. <9304072150.AA01175@near.ugcs.caltech.edu> Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1993 15:14:28 PDT Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" My CB radio is picking up a lot of interferance from the engine, which I assume is from the the points, distributer or spark plug wires. It there any way I can quiet this electrical noise in the CB band? If the noise is there even when you turn the volume down (but not off), chances are that it's dirty volts in the power supply, and you can filter it out with an isolation unit. Radio Shack sells them; basically it provides a filters source of power for your radio. If it's in the signal, then you'll need to filter at the source or the antenna. Try some spiral wound spark plug wires and/or resistive plugs. From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 7 18:29:05 1993 Return-Path: Date: Wed, 7 Apr 93 16:21:30 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wires Content-Length: 977 ______________ | | | ENGINE | | | |_____________| FRONT-> 4 3 2 1 3 1 \ _ / DIST-> (_) (goes counter-clockwise) / \ 4 2 With regards to the radio interferance problem; As pointed out by someone else Radio Shack or better yet a CB/ham radio store will sell you all kinds of stuff that will help. One trick I've done is to ground the hood, er excuse me, bonnet to the fire wall with a small piece (6") of wire braid that has a .375" quick disconnect on it. (Like the large size on the regulator). The wire braid should be about the equivalet of 8 AWG wire in cross section. The shield from a 1/4" diameter piece of coax will do. (not the foil kind though-nice wire braid) The quick disconnect is so you can remove the hood easily for the (constant) maintenance. spelling errors included for your ammusement Regards, Bill G. From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 8 08:52:16 1993 Return-Path: To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: forw to list. Date: Thu, 08 Apr 93 09:44:47 -0400 From: William Caloccia ------- Forwarded Message Return-Path: moore@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov Date: Thu, 8 Apr 93 04:34:11 GMT Message-Id: <9304080434.AA02452@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov> From: moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV) To: car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Cc: MOORE@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov Subject: RE: New Land Rover Owner, Finally! > Subj: New Land Rover Owner, Finally! > > > 2. Are Land Rovers as scarce where you are as they are here? (Those of > you in England are luckier in this respect than the rest of the > world). I spent some time calling the 40 or so junkyards in the St. > Louis area looking for a derelict for some parts, and didn't find > anything at all. Actually, no, LR's are rather frequent here. Then again, I live in Boulder :-) Home the 1st National Garage and and Carl, a cantankerous old bastard that actually has a Rover junk yard (and knows the value of it). > Big desires: Fairey overdrive unit; auxiliary fuel tank; winch; rear > pto driveshaft and etc; safari roof; canvas top frame pieces. If you put on an overdrive, you lose the the rear PTO. > 4. Any way to verify the build date of my Land Rover, say from the chassis > number, or engine serial number? The title I got says 1969, but there > is actually some room for doubt on this (though it seems reasonable > given the configuration of the vehicle). > From the book "The Land Rover": "Edight-digit numbers plus suffix letters. The first three digits, in the sequence 241-354 (Series II models) and 901-965 (Series III models), indicated the model and specification.....several number sequences were not issued. The last five digits indicate the serial number, commencing from 00001 in each series. The suffix letters indicate design modifications, which are of importance in servicing the vehicle. There is no digit to indicate the year or model-yearof manufacture." BTW - I'm not going to check for typos in that :-) Mark --0- moore@fsl.noaa.gov NOAA - Boulder, CO USA 1961 Land Rover 109 1967 Triumph TR6C 1974 Norton Commando ------- End of Forwarded Message From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Apr 8 11:23:20 1993 Return-Path: Date: Thu, 8 Apr 93 09:12:49 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: caloccia@tornadic.sw.stratus.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: forw to list. Mark, After reading your posting about LR serial #s I had to pull my registration. Mine is 164000561. This is off the plate on the bulkhead. It is registered as a 1960. It was originally sold in Canada as a 109 pickup. There are no sufix letters, and it starts before 241. Its deffinatly not a series I. I suppose, I'll need to eventually write off to Rover to get build info. I do not think British Heritage handles Rover records. Though, by now I suppose it doesn't matter so much, with a '74 engine, type III radiator, G suffix transmission, Late IIA style steering box, series IIA brake plates (easire to get IIA brake parts), MGB tach, underseat LR tanks on each side with their own fillers, a LR rear tank waiting to go in the back with a filler from a high capacity pickup, original pickup top replaced with a 109 regular top, the top of the top replaced by a safari top, Original white paint covered by medium forrest green. It isn't exactly a stock concourse winner. At least, except for the MG tach, its all Land Rover. Its just a 1960 to 1974 109 Series II, IIA, III irregular 8*) No wonder I'm always so confused, TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 9 17:20:44 1993 Return-Path: Date: Fri, 9 Apr 93 22:10:53 GMT From: moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV) To: lro@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov Subject: Book title info > Subj: LAND ROVER BOOK > > From the book "The Land Rover": > > Can you send me publisher information for that book - ISBN, etc. I'd like > to order a copy. > > Glenn Stauffer > Kennett Square, PA What the heck, I'll post the info to the list. It's Friday. The Land Rover 1948 - 1984 A Collector's Guide by James Taylor @1984 Motor Racing Publications, Ltd. 28 Devonshire Road, Chiswick London W4 2HD England Have a weekend everybody!!! Mark --0- moore@fsl.noaa.gov NOAA - Boulder, CO USA 1961 Land Rover 109 1967 Triumph TR6C 1974 Norton Commando From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 9 18:28:44 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Spark Plug Wires From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1993 13:48:31 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) writes: > ______________ > | | > | ENGINE | > | | > |_____________| FRONT-> > 4 3 2 1 > > 3 1 > \ _ / > DIST-> (_) (goes counter-clockwise) > / \ > 4 2 Excellent. Exactly what I wanted, and now annotated into my factory & Haynes manual's. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 9 18:47:32 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: spark plug wires From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1993 13:44:03 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec writes: > The order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2. Same as a Mini... :-) The number one plug is at the one 1'clock position when looking at the distributor from the right hand side. Counter clockwise is what I have been told. -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Apr 10 23:44:16 1993 Return-Path: Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1993 00:35:57 -0400 From: Chris Barbeau To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: ISBN# Does anyone happen to know the ISBN number for Lindsay Porter's book on Repair and Restoration of LR's? The local bookstore can order it for me, but it doesn't appear in thier listing yet. (Lot's of other's by LP, but not this one) Thanks! --chris From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 09:34:31 1993 Return-Path: Date: Mon, 12 Apr 93 14:25:51 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: serial no.'s On the subject of serial numbers.....an ancient service manual we have lists early (pre '65) serial numbers separated by year and destination (import vs. export only, I think). Nigel's numbers are 144004308, and he's a '60. I will check on yours, TerriAnn. Haven't got to my oil warning light troubles yet-too busy getting the 9N up and running-did a crude head rebuild this weekend (decarbonization, gasket replacement, head retorqued, etc), worked on the bucket loader hydraulics, and fixed the 3pt hitch lift.....got the spreader lubed up and chucked manure all day! yahool rd From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 11:20:27 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: progress report... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1993 20:24:44 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Well, TeriAnn, it didn't rain today, and with a California-like temperature in the mid forties, I embarked on a little preventative work to insure that my lead lasts a little longer. Of course, by the time I see the response, it will probably be one stating that you have leapt ahead, and might even have your LR running. Most of todays effort was centred around those annoying little aspect that I have been procrastinating about. The gearbox is finally mated with the engine. What a joy that was, trying to place nuts on bolts, buried in semi-dried oils, whle resting in a semi-dry swamp of oil and water. The exhaust pipe was forced on, the bolts on the donor engine not being in the best of shape, but without an oxy-aceteline torch, were not going to come out of the manifold. The engine mounts were changed. What a pain that was. The right side mount came off, and replacement back on like a dream. The left side was not so co-operative. It did come off easily, being split in half. Getting the new one back on was not so fun. The sides of the mounting points extend far enough that it can be rather difficult to manoeuvre a complete one in. In the end, raming the engine as high as it would go, combined with shoving it to one side succeeded in the mount getting into place. However, I am still struggling with the lower nut for that mount. I notice that it is not in the most convienent place to put a socket on it. The starter is all in and wired up, as is the generator. Out of three generators to choose from, I ended up using the one that would actually fit. One is just a bit too short between the mounting points, the other too long. I will have to endeavour to figure out what vehicles they are from. If I am keen, I guess that I can put the right side wing back on, followed by the front and radiator. Still to go: Bleed brakes; empty gas tank of old gas, refill; put distributor wires, generator wires on; wings, cowling, & radiator; front floors & gearbox tunnel cover; check wiring system to see how far the attempted conversion to negative earth/alternator got; and I guess, try to start it... Oh yeah, I still have to figure out how the front hubs go back together... Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 11:38:35 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: ISBN# From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1993 17:02:32 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Chris Barbeau writes: > Does anyone happen to know the ISBN number for Lindsay Porter's book on > Repair and Restoration of LR's? lindsey porter; "Guide to Rurchase & DIY Restoration; Land-Rover Series I, II & III" Haynes Publishing Group, 1992 ISBN 0 85429 681 6 It doesn't tell you how to change engine mounts though... %^&#$ things... Rgds, Dixon 109" with an attached gearbox now... :-) -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 14:05:49 1993 Return-Path: Date: Mon, 12 Apr 93 11:57:18 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: progress report... Dixon, you are still slightly ahead. I finally got my new engine home about 5 PM sat and worked on it until I discovered I was going to need to purchase two bolts that fit the top of the bell housing adaptor to the engine. They were slightly longer (OPPS, this sentence should read" The corresponding bolts from the old engine were slightly too long for the new engine"). So Sat, I was able to get the engine home and suspended over the bay, the fuel pump mounted, the starter mounted, and the oil filter adaptor mounted. Sunday, saw those two bolts purchased and mounted, the engine placed on its mounts, water pump mounted, thermostat housing mounted, valve timing set, and cover mounted, points sat, new distributer rotor, cap and wires mounted, alternator & bracket mounted, temperature and cold running sensors mounted, new horn mounted, gound strap between engine and starter, all engine wiring connected except the alternator, new radiator mounted to radiator bulkhead and radiator shroud mounted to radiator. Since the engine parts I have been putting on came off the old engine, there is a de-cruding step inbetween. I found a cracked flex hose that went between the oil filter adaptor and the copper oil pressure guage feed line. Maybe rhats where some of the oil was coming from. Lined up for next weekend: Fitting ehaust header (mine has the 4 tube header), intake manafold, headlamp buckets to radiator bulkhead, mounting radiator bulkhead, mounting clutch, offering up gear box, installing new leadlamps (old ones had separate bulb & reflector - the reflector was getting quite rusty), connecting wire harness to front lamps, installing new speedomotor, & cable. I plan to test the wiring to make sure all my connections are correct, and possibly try to fire up the engine. Major issue is that I still do not have the transfer case I want to install and it may not be ready and available by next weekend. and the splines on the drive shaft that is going back on are still very loose. Dixon, if you keep at it, it is going to be close. TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 14:49:28 1993 Return-Path: Date: Mon, 12 Apr 93 19:40:21 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: mounts Dixon writes: The engine mounts were changed. What a pain that was. The right side mount came off, and replacement back on like a dream. The left side was not so co-operative. It did come off easily, being split in half. Getting the new one back on was not so fun. The sides of the mounting points extend far enough that it can be rather difficult to manoeuvre a complete one in. In the end, raming the engine as high as it would go, combined with shoving it to one side succeeded in the mount getting into place. However, I am still struggling with the lower nut for that mount. I notice that it is not in the most convienent place to put a socket on it. I presume you have a left hand drive rover. Sounds like you faced most or all of the same hassles I did when I changed mine (hence my warning a couple of weeks ago-probably would've been an easier job to do when you dropped the engine in there.....but it probably felt much better then-with all those brew totin' rover fans/assistants standing by-to get the motor in. Besides, there's a competition going on here.....). As I did mine, I realized that the left one should go in before the right side mount. This allowed me to gain an extra few cm's for that badly needed clearance and to move it as much as possible to the right side (as you did). I also removed the bracket that bolts to the block and fits atop the mount itself-putting it back on was no easy task. As for the lower mounting nut, I think I was able to get a socket on it (a skinny little 3/8 drive socket), but might've had to resort to using a universal in order to get my drive handle onto it. Perhaps someone out there has other tips for LHD motor mount replacements. ?? rdushin From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 14:51:38 1993 Return-Path: Date: Mon, 12 Apr 93 19:43:32 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: vin no.'s\ TeriAnn- According to the circa '65 workshop manual, you do indeed have a 1960 LHD series II 109 export model. rdushin From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 12 23:39:50 1993 Return-Path: From: daryl@rt1.menzies.su.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Overdrive and PTO compatability To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (Land Rover Owners Group) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 93 13:58:48 CST Mark Moore says > > > Big desires: Fairey overdrive unit; auxiliary fuel tank; winch; rear > > pto driveshaft and etc; safari roof; canvas top frame pieces. > William Caloccia replies > If you put on an overdrive, you lose the the rear PTO. This aint necessarily so. What you need is a transfer case (or sump plate) off of a Land-Rover Fire tender. They came standard with front, centre and rear PTO's. The transfer case sump plate is modified and carries a rear facing gear driven pto output in the lower part. Its a long time since I've seen one so the description is suitably vague. An aquaintance has one but wont part with it. Some years ago he made a copy (he has access to a machine shop) which he successfully used to make a 6x6 on a 109 chassis. Both rear axles were permanently engaged using the normal output and the driven pto unit, with the front engaging when he hit the panic button. The modern 110 derivative 6x6 drives front and middle diffs with the rear engaged via the pto take off. (LT95 g/box t/case) I do not know of a factory dual PTO LT95 box so on vehicles so equiped ( Rangies, 101's, 4sp 110's, SIII 3.5V8 and 3.9d as well as others I cant remember) a pto is probably incompatible with an overdrive. A short note/question on Fairey/Toro overdrives. All of the ones I've seen/used/had any thing to do with required rebuilds within 35 - 40K km (about 25-30K miles) or earlier. They just seem to get too hot and wear out. My own unit was *Very* noisy after only 20K Km ( about 12mth), despite monthly oil changes, that I ripped it out. Most people I've talked to think the oil capacity is too small. Does anyone know of a cheap way of improving the oil flow in these units. If I was looking simply for more road speed again I would go for 4.1 diff sets, mind you the O/drive was usefull in otherways (1/2 gears) but just too expensive due to the short life. -- | | Daryl Webb (daryl@menzies.su.edu.au) \ / Menzies School of Health Research \__/ P.O. Box 41096 || << Casuarina N.T. 0811 _-*_|\---------------------- * << Australia / \ || << Voice : 61_89_228196 \_.--._/ /||\ Fax : 61_89_275187 v * || o / || \ 1982 SIII 3.5V8 County (This is not a 110 and Yes they do exist, I've got one) ex *Modified* 1966 IIa H/top From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 12:30:22 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: forw to list. From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 01:39:58 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec writes: > After reading your posting about LR serial #s I had to pull my registration. > Mine is 164000561. This is off the plate on the bulkhead. It is > registered as a 1960. It was originally sold in Canada as a 109 pickup. > There are no sufix letters, and it starts before 241. Its deffinatly not > a series I. This serial number denotes it as the 561st Export, Lefthand drive, 109" Station Wagon, produced for 1960. Now, how it was originally sold as a pick-up, which implies that it should have a 154 prefix, I do not know. The 241 prefix denotes a Home market Righthand drive 88", Series IIA, not Series II. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 12:49:24 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: mounts From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 01:32:51 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes: > I presume you have a left hand drive rover. That it is. > probably would've been an easier job to do when you dropped the > engine in there.....but it probably felt much better then-with > all those brew totin' rover fans/assistants standing by-to get > the motor in. We had hoped that between two old engines that we could get a pair of engines mounts to use. Not the case. Three were completely split, and I had not had the foresight to order a set, and one person who said he had some forgot to bring them. > Besides, there's a competition going on here.....). :-) And pretty close too... > As I did mine, I realized that the left one should go in before the > right side mount. Maybe in the factory, not in practice. > This allowed me to gain an extra few cm's for that badly needed > clearance and to move it as much as possible to the right side ( > as you did). I just fired the engine up as high as it would go, basically until it ramed into the bulkhead. Then I dropped it about half an inch, or less, so the engine could be leavered with a crowbar from side to side. > I also removed the bracket that bolts to the block and fits atop the > mount itself-putting it back on was no easy task. I considered this approach, but looking at where the top bolt is on the lhs top bracket, quickly discarded that option. It did not look like fun, especially with a mount lounging about, ready to get in the way whenever you didn't want it there. There is little room to deal with the upper bolt anyway. A spanner would be painful, a socket requires the engine mount to be out of the way, which if it was, means that you do not have to deal with the upper mount. Additionally, a socket is going to require a universal joint as you cannot get the engine high enough for a straight in shot at it. > As for the lower mounting nut, I think I was able to get a socket on it ( > a skinny little 3/8 drive socket), but might've had to resort to using a > universal in order to get my drive handle onto it. There was no way I could get a socket on it. Even using a universal-type socket left little room, and then you had the problem of it flopping off the nut at times. I found that ensuring all the threads were nice and clean, oiled, and had the nut on and off a couple of times before the mount was actuly put in was the only way to make the process fairly painless. Once started and fingered up as far as it would go, a spanner sufficed to finish it off. > Perhaps someone out there has other tips for LHD motor mount replacements. Disconnect the right, and send the block as high as it will go. Use a crowbar to lever the engine towards the right side, and it will just fit in. There is no need to disconnect the upper bracket from the block. Better yet, is to change the mounts when you have the engine out. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 13:06:54 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: vin no.'s\ From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 01:42:56 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes: > According to the circa '65 workshop manual, you do indeed have a > 1960 LHD series II 109 export model. But a Station Wagon, not a pick-up as she said it was originally sold as. See my previous message with the serial numbers listed for 1959-61. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 13:26:52 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: serial no.'s From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 00:23:41 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@SDSC.EDU (dushin russell) writes: > On the subject of serial numbers.....an ancient service manual we have > lists early (pre '65) serial numbers separated by year and destination > (import vs. export only, I think). Nigel's numbers are 144004308, and > he's a '60. I will check on yours, TerriAnn. Serial numbers of that era were table driven and very messy and complicated without the table to decipher them. I have only filled in 1960, but you can see the pattern developing that you can transpose into 1959 and 61. In 1962 the series chanced and were prefaced with a different 4 starting digits. Also note, this is only for the 2.25l petrol engine. An example: 1959 1960 1961 88 Home, RHStg 141900001 141000001 14110001 Export, RHStg 142000001 Export, RHStg,CKD 143000001 Export, LHStg 144000001 Export, LHStg,CKD 145000001 109 Home, RHStg 151000001 Export, RHStg 152000001 Export, RHStg,CKD 153000001 Export, LHStg 154000001 Export, LHStg,CKD 155000001 88 Home, RHStg,SW Same as Export, RHStg,SW '88 until Export, RHStg,CKD,SW March 65 Export, LHStg,SW Export, LHStg,CKD 109 Home, RHStg,SW 161000001 Export, RHStg,SW 162000001 Export, RHStg,CKD,SW 163000001 Export, LHStg,SW 164000001 Export, LHStg,CKD,SW 165000001 Rgds, Dixon [who should be outside sworking on his beast] -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 13:46:04 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Subject: Re: progress report... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 00:48:42 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec writes: > Dixon, you are still slightly ahead. Yeah, but then I read onward... :-) > the engine placed on its mounts, Somehow APB managed to damage the end of the mounting bolt that ended up on the bottom. After struggling for a long while, I had a vision, wondered what I was doing under the vehicle and embarked on a programme to rectify my rust filled eyes. Yea, disconnect the upper nut (you must be beginning to get the picture here), disconnect the right engine mount, and send the block to the sky yet again. I flipped over the left mount, and dropped the engine down again, reconnecting the left mount, doing the bottom bolt on the rhs, then attacked the upper end with a very big file. It succumbed after about an eigth of an inch was sheared off. > points sat, New points and condensor went in this afternoon too... > new distributer rotor, cap and wires mounted, I have the wires, but one cap is a screw mount, the other a side entry cap. The local supplier, who I gave the specific part numbers and screw-in type information to me sent push in plugs. No problem eh? Just chop the ends of the wires and screw them into the side mount cap. Not so fast, the head of one of the screws broke off and I cannot get the last wire out. Time for a new cap... alternator & bracket mounted, Generator and bracket mounted here too... > all engine wiring connected except the alternator All wiring connected except the plug and coil wires... > new radiator mounted to radiator bulkhead and radiator shroud mounted to > radiator. You are ahead here. I am having trouble manoeuvring the right wing all on my lonesome back into position. Once it goes back on, I can put the radiator on. I need a co-operative second soul for about an hour... > Dixon, if you keep at it, it is going to be close. I have also cleaned and put the air filtre back on, connected it to the carb. finishing that stage. The brakes were bled today, though the pedal is still a bit spongy, denoting some air hiding in the system. As one bleed screw is toast and needs to be replaced, that shall be persued with haste, and upon engaging in some poaching of able bodies, will again try to finish off the bleeding process. Considering the entire system was completely dry, to have it half working is not too bad I guess. Still to go are the distributor cap and wires, the wings & radiator, the fuel line from fuel pump to Solex, the right floor and gearbox tunnel cover. The drain plug will not co-operate at all, even when I tried to persuade it with a big pipe wrench, but at this stage, I am tempted to take Land Rover's advertising of multi-fuel efficiency in deepest-darkest Africa to heart and just add new gas and fire what ever its there through the system. Maybe I'll be nice and throw some carb. cleaner or something in with it... Oh yeah, I probably should reattach the dash. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 14:04:05 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: vin no.'s\ From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 01:42:56 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes: > According to the circa '65 workshop manual, you do indeed have a > 1960 LHD series II 109 export model. But a Station Wagon, not a pick-up as she said it was originally sold as. See my previous message with the serial numbers listed for 1959-61. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 14:46:44 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: vin no.'s\ From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1993 01:42:56 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes: > According to the circa '65 workshop manual, you do indeed have a > 1960 LHD series II 109 export model. But a Station Wagon, not a pick-up as she said it was originally sold as. See my previous message with the serial numbers listed for 1959-61. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 13 18:20:54 1993 Return-Path: Date: Tue, 13 Apr 93 16:13:21 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: progress report... Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Well, I hesitate to provide this suggestion since you are ahead of me, Put the radiator bulkhead on first (3 bolts secure it to the frame & do not forget the rubber spacers between the frame and bulkhead). You can place the rear of the wing on the firewall flange, line up the mounting holes of the wing with the radiator bulkhead, pop a bolt in then go from there with everything lining up (almost). Mine has the left wing on, but your a transmission and transfer case ahead of me ACK TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 14 10:55:12 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Subject: Tuesday, and TeriAnne still has a chance to finish first... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1993 02:36:31 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Well, it is after one, and I have just returned from another sojourn in the garage. Some progress was accomplished that places me slightly farther ahead of my western competitor, yet the bulk of the time was spent on two small details that my competitor doesn't have to worry about. First, the easy stuff. It's Mini time in the Land Rover. Not wanting to wait a week for a distributor cap (the side entry cap is useless, as the fifth screw to be removed lost its head, leaving one wire securely attached) I skipped off early form work and headed out to a local British car parts/restoration firm near Ottawa. (MiniMan) There I found the object of my desires, a push in distributor cap from late sixties, early seventies Austin Mini's. That in tow, plus four new spark plugs, a new fuel filter, a fuel line (from pump to carb.), and four bleed screws, I was ready for a little evening work. The distributor cap, new rotor and wires are all attached to nice new plugs. The wire to the coil resulted in the realisation that the current coil was a screw in type. Not surprising as the original cap was of the same manufacture. Ahhh, there is the dead Winter Mini cluttering up my garage forecourt. A quick visit with a 1/2 inch spanner, and a coil was found for the LR. The old fuel line was discarded, and a new one, with filter, was attached. Except for a coolant system that will hold fluid, the engine is ready to go. Things then slowed down. There is still the problem of a petrol tank semi-filled with 15-18 year old gasoline. Granted, the Rover is designed for deepest-darkest Africa, and the worst fuel possible, the head is a 7:1 compression version, firing the gunk through the engine should hurt eh? Well, various advisors locally, who tend to like such swamp worthy vehicles as Austin Healy's et cetera, warn me against this approach. Fine. Lets look at removing the petrol tank. A little penetrating oil, a wire brush action on the two rear bolts/nuts and what do we find? A pair of rounded studs, with bulges where the nuts, in theory should be. I don't think so... Well, removing the two access panels in the floor of the rear revealed the fuel line junction, a breather/ balancing hose which was falling to pieces, yet another piece to now replace, and little that would help in the tanks removal. Tomorrow, we are off to Canadian Tire for a syphon unit. That tank is not coming off for a while... Oh yeah, renewed attenpts at dislodging the drain plug failed again... Finishing playing non-productive games with the fuel tank, I figured that the borrowed floor jack probably should go home. The weather is beginning to get nice, and the owner wishes to get his TR-8 out of the garage. So with this in mind, I figured it was time to play with the brake adjustors. Breaker bar, 11/16 socket, 11/16 spanner, silicon spray, penetrating oil, and a hand held sledge hammer to pursuad either socket or spanner to go on, I was ready. Lifting the vehicle a corner at a time, removing the tyre to allow easy access to probably frozen adjustors has resulted in four adjusted hubs. The use of force can be so useful at times... :-) Now, wether or not I actually adjusted them properly is another matter. What works on a Mini, must work on a Land Rover I guess. In one instance, a wheel out of the way allowed me to change the bleed screw on the front right wheel. It being stripped made the bleeding task a real chore. So the system needs to be bled again on one side, at least it will be easier this time. Not much progess eh? Oh well, tomorrow shall be the task of reattaching the right wing again. It is not on the critical path and stands in the way of serious progress. The entire wiring system is back together with the exception of the lights attached to the front wings and cowling. The fuel system is ready to go with the exception of a wee bit of sludge, and the Summer Mini battery is charging for a future relationship with time sharing between the Rover and the Mini. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 14 12:08:30 1993 Return-Path: To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com, dhuddles@gandalf.ca Subject: Re: Tuesday, and TeriAnne still has a chance to finish first... In-Reply-To: dixon's message of Tue, 13 Apr 93 23:36:31 -0800. Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1993 10:00:49 PDT Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" I've mentioned this stuff on the britcars list, but not here. I've become a real fan of late. It's a penetrating oil called "Kroil". Stupid name, but it works incredibly well - much better than WD40 or Liquid Wrench. You can get a sample spray can by sending a five dollar bill to Name: Kano Labs Address: 1000 So. Thompson Lane Nashville, TN 37211 Phone: (615) 833-4101 I don't know what they'll do if you send them Canadian currency; probably give you the benefit of the doubt. Dixon, this stuff might dissolve the rust on your tank studs enough to separate the lumpy remains of nuts and get the tank out, or at least loosen the drain plug... From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 14 12:16:22 1993 Return-Path: From: dhuddles@charm.gandalf.ca (David Huddleson) Subject: Re: Tuesday, and TeriAnne still has a chance to finish first... To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1993 13:09:47 -0400 (EDT) Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com In-Reply-To: from "dixon kenner" at Apr 14, 93 02:36:31 am Content-Type: text Content-Length: 412 Glad to see my jack is coming home :-) ... Be careful with the coil, make sure that it is the proper type. Does the Land-Rover need a six-volt coil or a twelve-volt coil. And what about ballast resistors etc... Make sure you don't burn out the points!!! David -- dhuddles@gandalf.ca David J. Huddleson Gandalf Data Ltd., Nepean, Ontario (613) 723-6500 Days (613) 822-1315 Otherwise From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 16 06:37:04 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Subject: Thursday progress, or lack thereof... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1993 01:27:16 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Oh well, not very much Rover action today. The Ottawa Philatelic Society had its regular meeting, so I played hookey and went off to that after paying the insurance premium form the next year on two of my cars. $100.08 for the year. Not bad I guess for a '79 Rabbit and '76 Austin Mini. And yes, they again refused to insure the Land Rover. "It's a collectors car. It is worth too much to insure" Like, the '72 Cortina was $28 last year when I insured it. How much should a '64 Land Rover go for? Maybe I should have bribed here with a meal at McDonald's. Not only would it cover the insurance premium, but she would benefit too... Oh well... But all is not lost. After getting home from the meeting, some pangs of guilt set in, so I did venture into the garage for a little while and put the right wing back on. I also replaced the three bolt holding the radiator cowling down, as the one that I could find was rather rusty, and three bew bolts looked nicer, as well as going on a little easier. Famous last words, but it looks as if the petrol tank sludge is about the only thing stopping it from moving forward (forgetting the wreckage of the Winter Mini for a moment...). Of course it may not stop, but that is what the front bumper is for... Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 16 06:43:36 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Subject: Re: progress report... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1993 01:18:38 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec writes: > Well, I hesitate to provide this suggestion since you are ahead of me, > Put the radiator bulkhead on first (3 bolts secure it to the frame & do not > forget the rubber spacers between the frame and bulkhead). In line with past progress reports, I must preface this one with one word... Trapped! After work, I fullfilled my honourable requirement to return the borrowed floor jack. No sooner had I arrived at David's house, but a garage door panel awaited my assistance for the traditional removal and freeing of a trapped TR-8. This was followed by further assistance in replacing a rather large wall to wall carpet that I had made the mistake of removing to allow a room to be painted. Thus, my sojourn in the garage here was commenced at a rather late hour, and progress was not as complete as I had hoped (you still have a chance TeriAnne, methinks you have bribed a fellow Triumph owner at the expence of a Land Rover owner... Shame... :-) ) However, I must admit that the sound of that Rover 3.5l engine in the TR-8 sounds rather nice. Now where are those addresses for the 3.5l conversion kits for the Series IIA? :-) :-) But on to the evening Rover effort. The front cowling and radiator have been attached, though two of the three screws seem to have gone missing. (I wonder where the OVLR chaps tossed them when it was removed a couple of weeks ago?). Well the centre one on on nice and secure, the radiator attached and plumbed into the block. Two full containers of anti-freeze have disappeared down its gullet, and it still wants more! It must be getting close, as some nine litres have gone in, and the capacity should be around 10.5 litres, unless the figure I have is for the Series III cooling system... Other than that, little was done. The fuel tank still calls me for attention, and the wings still sit astrew upon the garage floor. Tommorrow! > Mine has the left wing on, but your a transmission and transfer case ahead of I take it that you are pretty confident that the brake and clutch masters are not requiring attention. More bleeding efforts are required here, and though the wiring system should be complete (David raises an interesting point regarding the coil, I don't have a clue on this one. Winter Mini did not require a ballast resistor, Summer Mini does...) though the dash needs to be reassembled at some point, and the floors replaced. We are getting close. A tentative target date for a road test with the Mini plates (It has the Mini's coil, distributor cap and battery. That counts doesn't it? "Well Officer, its a really big Mini Moke...") is Sunday to participate in the OVLR Maple Syrup Rally to nearby Shawville for a traditional maple syrup fest in the woods... :-) We will see if TeriAnne can get the gearbox dropped in by Sunday morning... :-) Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Apr 16 07:59:44 1993 Return-Path: From: Steve Methley Subject: Dixon of duck green... To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 93 13:50:28 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Dixon writes: > However, I must admit that the sound of that Rover 3.5l engine in > the TR-8 sounds rather nice. Now where are those addresses for > the 3.5l conversion kits for the Series IIA? :-) :-) Forget the smilies and go for it! I get more pleasure from just listening to my V8's exhaust note on the driveway than I do driving a 2.25 anywhere ;-) Cheers, Steve. From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Apr 17 12:10:18 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Friday... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1993 02:23:41 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Little again this evening in terms of progress (TeriAnne must love these messages...) for a couple of reasons. The primary one must be a discovery on a number of missing items. Four bolts to hold the left wing onto the bulkhead would be rather nice, the radiator apron panel is not to be found among the various bits received when I picked up the vehicle two years ago... Other interesting items to locate, or manufacture, would be the splash guard for the left wing, a rear light (which I was told was among the various bits, something that I did not check) et cetera. Oh well, tomorrow mornings effort will be concentrated about an hour from here as I go off to strip the necessary parts off of a Land Rover slated for restoration next year. Borrowing those unique parts will get mine going in the very near future, while giving me time to get the proper parts later in the summer when some prentative maintenamce is undertaken after I move. Hmmm, since it is an 88", I wonder if they would notice if its fuel tank went missing? :-) Out of curiosity, I notice that you can retrofit the TDi into the 90. I wonder if it could go into a Series II or III? That would be nice, though probably rather expensive. 3.5l are a bit easier to come by over here... Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Apr 18 02:02:24 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Subject: Rain, mud, an ex-Series III, and no progress on the garaged beast From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1993 00:57:27 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Yet another day passes and no progress occurs on the garaged 109. However, an enjoyable rain soaked, beer filled, and cold windy day was spent in Almonte disassembling a 1970 Series III (2444xxxx G) short wheelbase Land Rover. Intending to go on a short jaunt, well, approximately 50-60 miles each way, to gather a bolt or four to hold on the left wing of my Land Rover, I arrived in time to assist in the dismantling. The engine/gearbox and axles have gone to resurrect a 109 pickup, steering rack, roof and rear seats to a Series IIA, a good number of bolts, a rear door, and battery hold down bracket to my 109. As with the Rover in Hallsville, where I got my second engine, removing this one, gearbox attached was rendered a straight forward task by cerfully removing the front end, the bulkhead basically fell off, and allowing the rotten mounts finish their deaths. Add a large International 4x4 tractor, and the engine/gearbox came out like a charm. Granted it took a longer for the tractor to use its blade to try and fill in the massive rust in the soft clay than it did to get the engine out. Twenty three years of rust makes for an impressive task at dismantling, especially if saving near-perfect condition body panels is a requirement. The vehicle, originally slated for restoration, despite having a completely rotten frame, gave its life to put two Land Rovers on the road, and help a further one finish getting there, and a final one to stay there. All is not lost for this one though, there are enough surplus parts at the home in Almonte to resurrect this one, if a suitable frame is ever found. The fuel tank mentioned yesterday? It had already been stolen for a fifth Land Rover (Series IIA) undergoing resurrection in Ottawa. Series I fans will be happy to note that a working white Series I resides at the home of the 109 pick-up being restored. So, TeriAnne, how is your 109 progressing? Progress on mine should be negligable tomorrow, as OVLR is having its annual maple syrup rally in nearby Shawville, and the thought of playing around in a Land Rover, as well as seeing another twenty of so is a bit much to pass up. Rgds, Dixon PS, there was a chance that my 109 could have been started, but the habitual solid planning between David and myself took effect. I proceeded from Almonte to his place to see if he wanted to come over to Luskville, found an empty house, so waited for him to return from where ever he was. As you can guess, he was over at my place waiting for me... -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 19 04:24:41 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Subject: Maple syrup rally... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1993 00:48:10 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Sunday's activities... The weather forecasters were wrong, and an expected rainy day out in a maple sugar bush turned into a cool, but sunny day as approximately thirty Land Rover enthusiasts embarked on the yearly Maple Sugar Rally. Approximately nine Land Rovers arrived, along with sundry other vehicles for a morning of chatter, the traditional sausage, french toast and baked bean brunch, beer, an auction of various parts, clothing items, and the required journey through the bush. Rotten weather forecasts kept a number of people away, and interestingly enough, all the arriving Land Rovers were 88's. Not a 109 to be seen... :-( The chit-chat wouldn't interest many people, but for the off road tour... Let us say it got interesting at the end... :-) The convoy left the farm and proceeded on a combination of abandoned railroad track bed, gravel road, and muddy roads. Gravel roads... boring Abandoned railroad bed... The track had been torn up many years ago, allowing for nature to take its course. A fine selection of mud, show drifts, and general ruts all added together for a fine journey that took us up and out of our seats as we lurched to and fro. :-) Muddy road... Lots of flying mud, the lead LR, seeing a suspicous puddle ahead attempted to steer around it and discovered that those fields have not seen heavy farm equipment for a very good reason. The club's president didn't stand a chance as he quickly drove up to the axles in Quebec's finest. The following vehicles? well, we continued through the puddle, stopping for, what was hoped, to be an enjoyable extraction. It wan't, as the bogged Rover came right out with a little help. The drive then became interesting. By the time the lead Rover became bogged down, we were on our final journey back to the farm. The farm's owner, overhearing one person boast that he had not even had to put his vehicle into four wheel drive, asked if we would like a ten minute jaunt into the sugar bush. We enthusiastically took him up on the offer. Well, he was correct. It was ten minutes in. It was about two hours out. The woods at this time of year up here are not the driest terrain to attempt to navigate. One should definately not stop. Well, the first three vehicles made it through the course. The fourth, the driver sliding as he rounded a corner got within inches of a tree. Fearing he migh scrape the 88, he stopped. All the rest of us had to stop too... Complementary map, horizontal profile. Add lots of turns ________ / | _____#5_ / | / \____#4/ 40' vertical _#9_#8_ _#7__#6_/ | rise \ water / mud mud mud mud mud mud _|_ ~~~~~~~~ Let's get a very big tractor to pull this one 88 up and around this corner and hill they thought. Well, that did not take to much time, however... The next 88 had to go around this same corner. It didn't make it, as the rhd New Zealand 88 had begun to churn the earth up a bit (see a pattern emerging?). It too had to be pulled up this small hill by the tractor. The sixth Rover was in front of us, at the bottom of a small muddied hill, with the occasional boulder in the way. It managed to get about half way up this first hill, through a process of backing up and charging forward. This process also caused us in #7 to retreat a bit. Tractor time here too, all the way up to the top. By this point, to get out of our muddied hole, we quickly found that we could no longer go forward or backwards. We sank the 88 up to the frames. By the time the tractor got us out, that first hill was beginning to look very sad. #8 was an Isuzu. Despite the romours you may have heard about its off road characteristics, let me say this... they are all lies. It got into a bigger mess that we did in the same spot. Extracting it saw the tractor, with its six foot tyres and chains bury itself up to the axles, where upon it ran out of gas. A slight delay here, but it did manage to extract itself, and in a very slow process, get the Isuzu up the little hills. 88 pick-up, number 9 in the row, chickened out and left the woods by the path it came in on. By the time the Isuzu was out, it was clear nothing was going to go through there until the woods dried out a bit more. PArticipants did learn that it is useful not to have semi bald tyres, or at least tyres that look if they belong on a yuppie jeep. They just do not cut it in the muck. In fact, the best tyres were on the 88 pick-up, being ex-military bias plys which are unobtainable up here any more. They are self cleaning to some extent. Most of the radials that were there were not. One Land Rover experienced problems when the fuel line decided to start leaking. The driver, a recent purchaser, and completely innocent of Land Rovers feared that the gas coating the front of his engine was going to result in a fireball. A quick check revealed that this Land Rover was not as original as it should be. The gas line comprised a hard plastic line to the front of the engine, a rubber hose sliding over the plastic line ending up at the Solex. Not a clamp to be seen. On the highway, the constant gas pressure would not cause a problem, but the surging of the engine running though muddy ruts, leftover showdrfts, et ceterta, caused engough problems to cause the line to start come adrift. A quick addition of a new clamp solved this problem, but while we were playing under the bonnet, a cracked brake master resevoir was found, the temperature guage was the one I had removed from the dead beige 109 in Hallsville, the brake booster was wrong for the vehicle, extra live wires were cluttered about, and the left engine mount nut on the top was not to be seen. More beer, and a trip home just about concluded the day. A little evening jaunt in the garage saw the petrol tank siphoned out (very little liquid, much evidence of a rusty muck in the bottom of the tank) and a 109 ready to finally start. Now, where are those keys... Better hurry TeriAnne, mine is ready to start, though not ready to saftey. The front lights still need to be hooked up, the brakes re-bled. Rgds, Dixon BTW, I hope the list doesn't mind these accounts. Traffic is fairly low and I thought that I might as well add some content of some Land Rover endeavours. -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Apr 19 05:57:56 1993 Return-Path: From: Mike Rooth Subject: Dixons Endeavours To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Mon, 19 Apr 93 11:46:38 BST Speaking for myself(what else?),keep the words coming Dixon,especially the OVLR newsletters.Great! Cheers Mike Rooth From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 20 12:14:21 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: OVLR's March newsletter From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1993 23:16:04 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Notes: Sorry for the delay. April's newsletter should be entered by tomorrow or Wednesday. (I hope) :-) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- OTTAWA VALLEY LAND ROVERS 1016 NORMANDY CRESCENT, OTTAWA, ONTARIO, CANADA R2C OL4 12 MARCH 1993 G'day eh. FRON THE EDITOR... First; a note about the address on the letter head. There is absolutely no truth to the rumour that Kelsey has thrown out McD for the new editor of the Newsletter. Although the editor has no doubt that McD could be easily replaced, there is absolutely no truth to the rumour at this time. The club address has not changed, just the Newsletter editor. While tending to Her Majesty's affairs in Vancouver last week I noticed the number of Range Rovers tooling about was amazing and the dearth of Land Rovers, just as amazing. Is it that Lug Nut Landie types have gone upscale (I will deal with McD and Bates later) or, is it Land Rovers have not been imported for some time? The good news is, a new Land Rover may be available soon, look for details in ROBIN CRAIG'S, GENERAL SERVICE.... While we do not profess to be experts on the French language, we do know the difference between girls and boys. Our apologies to Michel Bertrand. --------------------------------------------------------------------- CLUB EVENTS.... MARCH....Engine Swap at Dixon Kenner's is scheduled for, 13 March, 10:00 AM at Dixon's place. Here is the directions to Dixon's. If you live in Ontario cross the CHAMPLAIN BRIDGB into Quebec and take the FIR8T LEFT as you come off the bridge...travel 3 miles down the road through a set of traffic lights to a stop sign in a 50 kph speed zone....at the stop sign turn RIGHT to FRANR ROBIN80N ROAD...proceed to the next set of traffic signals and turn LEFT to NAIN STRBET/RUE PRINCIPALE ....proceed to the next set of traffic signals (park is on right) and turn RIGHT to ENDERTY RD./ HWY. 148....proceed down HWY. 148 for 7.5 miles to a STONE CHURCH (now a residence).. turn RIGHT just past the church to BRAUN RD...proceed down BRAUN RD 1 mile and turn into Dixon's...DIXON on post box... brown house with double car garage. If these directions lead you astray call Dixon at (819) ~55-2783. APRIL.... The MAPLE SYRUP RALLY is tentatively scheduled for, 18 April at Vern Fairhead"s farm....more details next month MAY.... The ENGINE TUNE-UP session is scheduled for Saturday, 10 May at 9:00 AM at Scandinavian Auto Service, organized by TED R0SE. We also plan to have a parts exchange/sale in conjunction with the tune-up session. A Canadian version of Old Sodbury's Saturday Sort-out. Start sorting through your unwanted good stuff and bring it to the sale. JUNE.... TENTH ANNIVERSARY BIRTHDAY PARTY 12 JUNE.... more later. --------------------------------------------------------------------- NEWS...NEW MEMBERS....FOR SALE.... BXECUTIVE MEETING NOTES.... THB MARCH EXECUTIVE MEETING has decided to contact suppliers to see if they are interested in advertising in the Newsletter. Advertising is to be limited to one page, and sold by the quarter page. If you are interested, contact the club at the address on the Letterhead.....The Executive has authorized expenditures of $400.00 on the club trailer. The money is for stoves, stabilizers and electrical wiring. The Club is financially solvent at the moment, but don't let that stop you from sending in large donations. LOORING FOR: Anyone with a Land Rover and/or 1 passenger that wants to drive out to B.C. via the States. Leaving, 20-24 April, will take 4-6 days to get there, will spend nights camping. Final destination: Prince George B.C. Call Marko Stefanovic (416) 825-8662 A.S.A.P. CONGRATULATION8 to Land Rover Canada on having the 1993 Range Rover Country LWB chosen as the best Sport/Utility vehicle in Canada. LAND ROVER OWNER ...reports sighting a test vehicle expected to replace the DEFENDER. TREVOR EASTON is the new Land Rover editor of The Toronto Area Rover Club Newsletter. (416) 945-6128 TOUR OF ENGLAND... contact Roy Bailie at (613) 523-5740 or write to him at, 1074 Wiseman Crescent, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada KlZ 8J4. NEXT EXECUTIVE MEETING ... Wednesday, 7 April 1993, 7:00 PM at the Red Coach Restaurant, 4049 Carling Avenue, Kanata. Telephone (613) 592-3700. All members and guests are welcome. The last few executive meetings have been rather chaotic from the point of view of transacting the club's business. The executive would appreciate getting the business meeting over before we get into lengthy discussions about Land Rovers. If you want to observe the Executive meeting (you can ask questions at the end, I am not sure about answers) come at 7:00 PM, If you just want to visit, have a pint, eat supper and talk about Land Rovers come at 7:30 PM. TENTH ANNIVERSARY SWEAT SHIRTS...OVLR plans to sell a quality kangaroo type sweat shirt, in light grey with the club tenth anniversary logo imprinted. The shirts are made of heavier material than the green version which some of you have. The price is expected to be $40.00. Contact: YVES FORTIN at Tel. (613) 237-9719. --------------------------------------------------------------------- NEW NENBER8.... Sue and Tony Baller of Rockcliff Park (Ottawa) are new members of OVLR. The Ballers are from England on a two year posting with the United Kingdom High Commission. Tony is in the Royal Navy and keenly interested in Land Rovers. The Ballers are the fortunate owners of a British Specification, dark blue, 1991 Defender 110, Tdi. The editor has learned that McD and Bates have successfully converted Bates Sally from a Series I Land Rover into a "Boat ANCHOR". It is also reported that their next challenge is Roy Bailie's Land Rover. --------------------------------------------------------------------- TUNING LAND ROVER 2 1/4 PETROL ENGINES............by TED ROSE This is a brief "how to" guide for tuning your 2 1/4 petrol Land Rover I hope it is not to vague. It is best to tune an engine when warm. Try to combine the tune-up with an oil change. After a lot of winter starts with the cold start (choke) on, a certain amount of gasoline blows by the piston rings into the crankcase, affecting the oil pressure, lubrication and the way the engine runs in general. So warm it up, change the oil, and then start with the valves. I know the valve cover plate says " Hot or Cold" but always try to adjust them hot (read warm). Follow this sequence, 1 open adjust 8, 2 open adjust 7, 3 open adjust 6, 4 open adjust 5 or visa/versa. Continue until all eight valves are adjusted. Open is when the valve spring appears as compressed as it is going to be. Remember, don't slacken off all the locknuts at once. and only adjust the valves (tappets) that require attention. Tight is, tight enougn, on the locknuts. A good trick for the right adjustment is to go tight with the next larger size feeler gauge (0.011 inches). Then run the correct size through. It should feel just right, not loose, but not pinching or sticking. When you have adjusted all the valves then check the valves once again, maybe twice. This is a critical step in tuning your engine so take care and do it properly!!! Next, do a compression check, try to use a screw in type gauge. Disconnect the wire from the switch (SW side of the coil). Record the compression readings as you measure each cylinder. If you get exactly the same readings from each cylinder, great, but unlikely. Usually there will be some variation eg: 147, 150, 142 and 151 lbs. However if three readings are close and one i8 100 lbs lower than the other three, a tune-up is not going to help. Moving to the sparking plugs, (spark plugs). Plugs are relatively cheap, and vital to the performance of your engine. Throw away the old plugs and buy a set of new plugs. (not Crappy Tire's own brand). Use a spark plug gauge with an electrode adjuster and use it to adjust the spark plug gap. Do not assume the gap is correct straight out of the box and do not bang them on the bench or valve cover until you think they look right. Adjust for a 0.030 inch gap. Put a little anti-seize on the threads. and once again, tight is, tight enouqh. Now have a look at your distributor cap, rotor, spark plug and coil wires. If they don't look perfect, throw them under the front seat and fit new parts. Fit genuine Land Rover parts as there can be a significant difference in quality between original Land Rover and after market parts. Make sure the base plate to which the parts attach rotates freely. If it does not move, do not force it. You might remove it completely from the distributor and make sure the centrifugal weights are not seized and the springs to the distributor cam are intact and attached. The distributor cam should rotate slightly as well. Apply suction or vacuum to the pipe or hose on your vacuum advance to remove any debris. If your points are burned or damaged, don't attempt to file or repair them. Fit new points and set them to 0.015 inches. At the same time change the condenser. Remember genuine Land Rover parts only. Make sure the "pigtail" (the low tension lead and block) is in good condition. If you have a fuel filter (highly recommended) replace it. Clean the sediment bowl on you fuel pump. Make sure it comes off easily enough so you can reassemble it. Do not ignore the air filter. Take it apart and clean . Refill with 20W50 oil to the level mark. Set your timing next, 7:1 engines 6 deg. BTDC, 8:1 engines 0 deg. TDC and 8:1 (emission controlled) 6 deg. ATDC. The best advice I can give you for your carburettor is, if it is not broken don't fix it. Most of us have one of three carburettors fitted, but they all have two main adjustments, idle and mixture. So as long as the throttle shaft is not too warn, proceed. Turn your idle down as low as it will go, 700 to 800 RPM is good. Find the highest, smoothest idle speed with the mixture screw, then re- adjust the idle with the idle screw to about 800 RPM or until it sounds right, not too fast, remember you have to be able to shift gears. Give the throttle a couple of snaps, if it stalls, increase the idle speed a bit, and you are done, Any problems, call me. TED RO8E ()613) 256-1598 --------------------------------------------------------------------- GENERAL SERVICE ...........................by Robin Craig First up this month, Land Rover North America Inc. (LRNA) has announced that it is seriously considering bringing a modified Defender 90 to North America. You will remember that I told you that the 525 Defender 110's for the US and Canadian markets were for this year only. During the sales period for these vehicles a great deal of interest was shown for a two door model to be made availahle . The proposed North American 90 would be a soft top with a roll bar system similar to the Defender 110. The only picture available is an artists rendition which is shown at the end of this article. LRNA says the doors will be "half height" with sliding glass windows. The canvas pictured has large clear panels similar to current sport utility vehicles. Some points to note in the picture are; the wipers are the wrong way around and there is additional turn signals at the front and rear. The spare tyre location is not shown. This can be a problem on a soft top vehicle if you intend to have seats in the back and not have the tyre on the hood. The answer then would be to adopt a sideways swinging tailgate as seen on the Belgian 4 X 2 88's and as shown on a factory military demonstrator 90 patrol vehicle about 18 months ago. This gets rid of the awful arrangement found on some 4 X 4's where the spare is on a gate affair which has to be swung clear before the tailgate can be opened. In the mechanical department the vehicle would "be mechanically similar" to the 110's. This raises the question as to whether this is another manufacturers limited run to further the growing profile of the Land Rover margue or whether they intend to seriously sell and support the Defender product line in North America. I will re state my feelings, that to be taken seriously LRNA must be prepared to support these vehicles for a long time to come. Good luck guys. Speaking of new vehicles, there have been a couple of arrivals in the world of scale model Land Rovers. Airfix has re-released its HO scale Bristol Bloodhound kit which includes a series II 88 Soft Top. The kit is a little crude but good value for the money. The kit number is 02309 and retails for about $6.50 plus taxes. You should be able to find it in you local hobby shop. Should you have a problem obtaining a Blood Hound kit, contact Terry Jones at Hobby House, 80 Montreal Road, Vanier (Ottawa), (613) 749-5245 Dartmoor Military Models in the UK have announced that they are releasing a 1:35 scale Lightweight in kit form. The kit parts are made of metal and resin. It is unclear at the moment whether it is a Series II or series III, whether it is a 12 or 24 volt model, or which side the driving position is on. The price is yet to be announced but will be prohibitive, as most of Dartmoor's products retail in the UK28.00 and upwards range. On the up side, you will be getting a very fair representation of the real vehicle as Dartmoor are known for their quality and attention to detail. Also in the works is a 1 tonne 101 FC. John Perry of Dartmoor Military Models can be contacted at Woodsmanwell House, Brantor, Tavistock, Devon, England, PL19 ONE. Tel. 01144 822 82250 Fax. 01144 822 82459. TOW GOD, the cover name for one of this column's informers, tells us of an interesting conversation. While on exercise a senior officer from our neighbours down south visited and was chatting to the troops. Tow God asked the officer how their new Land Rover Special Operations Vehicles were performing. The reply was "I can neither deny or confirm the existence of such a vehicle"! From Soldier, the magazine of the British Army, comes this snippet proving that Land Rovers the world over are highly sought after vehicles ...........A Land Rover was lost and then found in Bosnia after a road traffic accident. A Defender was involved in an accident in which the crew were injured. While the crew of a second Defender attended to the injured, thieves made off with their vehicle. It was spotted despite a new coating of camouflage paint and military markings a few days later by men of 2 Troop, B Squadron 9/12 Lancers. The Lancers managed to hem it in, and a check of the serial number soon proved British ownership. Till next month .......................Robin Craig [graphic] CHEERS, DAVID MEADOWS............................... --------------------------------------------------------------------- -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 20 12:29:09 1993 Return-Path: Date: Tue, 20 Apr 93 10:11:37 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Thursday progress, or lack thereof... Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Dixon, Having just put on my radiator bulkhead assembly too, here are a couple of things you may want to check before trying to fire up your LR. Those three lower mounting bolts go into slotted holes for side to side movement. There are rubber spacers that go between the frame and the radiator bulkhead (the monting bolts go through them). These provide vertical placement. My LR had rubber spacers 3 deep. With thefan shroud monted to the new Series III radiator, I needed to remove 2 spacers to keep the fan from hitting the bottom of the shroud. use the side to side movement to center the fan in the shroud opening. TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Apr 20 13:42:12 1993 Return-Path: Date: Tue, 20 Apr 93 11:31:02 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Rain, mud, an ex-Series III, and no progress on the garaged beast Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Urg! It rained Sat. & I was wishing for a garage, car port, or high ground to work on the Land Rover. Lets see, I got the radiator bulkhead assy on the LR and connected the hoses and front wiring. I installed the headlamp buckets and new lamps. I gave up on trying to remove the broken exhaust manifold studs & had the local muffler shop do it. The intake and exhaust manifolds got mounted, and the linkage connected to the carb. This completed the engine assembly except for the oil filter. I lost the spring on the canister that holds the filter against the adaptor (grumble). Oh there is one other thing, the vacum advanve line had a pin hole in it (tested it just before ataching to carb). I hand pumped fuel onto the carb to make sure the fuel system was secure. I had a leak where the glass sediment bowl seated on the rubber gasket. The gasket had hardened and is not sealing. I poured antifreeze & water into the cooling system.... only to see it pouring out the hole on the water pump by the front seal :*( So much for the "good condition" water pump that came with the new engine. I pulled the pump off my old engine, degreesed it & put it on the new engine. This time no leaks. The clutch, transmission and most of the transfer case went on. Since Scotty has very important family problems to deal with, the new traansfer case is way late & I decided to put my old worn one back on. Unfortunatly the intermediate gear is still at his house. I'm at the point on reassembly where I need to put in the intermediate gear. I noticed that one of the transfer case to chasis mounts has separated. I mounted the new bumper and overriders. So, in spite of the rain & no shelter I got everything done that I had parts for. i have a new spring, vacume advance line, sediment bowl seal, and mount coming in today from Rover's North. All I should need is my intermediate gear. As soon as I get the oil filter on, oil in it, the coil to distributer wire on (This never gets installed until after the oil is in), and the vacume advance line on, I'll try to fire the engine up (fingers crossed). Dixon, better get that fuel tank cleaned quickly. Somthing you might try.. Get a pump that fits on a hand drill. Use clear hoses so you can see what is getting pumped. Connect the input hose to there the fuel line connects, put the output hose down the filler neck. Pour 3 or 4 L of pertol into the tank & use the pump to stur things up. You can keep an eye on it by looking through the hose. After a while, pump the dirty fuel into a disposal container. After the Land Rovers get on the road, we will have to figgure out how to get together and compaire Land Rovers & notes. TeriAnn From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 21 05:45:15 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Subject: Tuesday; no it is not going yet... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1993 01:02:17 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec So it is now Tuesday, and I am back from a sojourn in the garage. Is the mighty beast working yet, one might ask? Well, I believe Dr. McCoy of Star Trek fame (TOS) had the appropriate words... "She's dead Jim". After clearing out what little fluid there was in the petrol tank, replacing the breather line between the two halfs, adding gasoline and some STP-type Solex and engine cleaner additive, the fuel system was ready. After insuring that the new fuel line from pump to Solex, with a nice new fuel filtre was all properly attached, the fuel delivery system was ready. A battery was added, grounding lines were attached from engine block to frane, from the frame to the battery. The electrical system was primed and ready to go. Thus I mounted the might Rover, prepared to do battle. Looking about from my high vantage point I was ready, but something seemed to be missing. Oh yeah, keys... Now, where did I toss those things two years ago when we brought the Rover home to the promised land? With the TR-7 keys! (David, you will be happy to note that I found those too... Maybe I should bring them by your place so they will not get lost again.) Keys in hand, I returned to the launch pad, gained quick access to the controls, placed the key in and turned. Nothing happened. (Well, something happened, the dome light came on...) Hmmm, let me think about this for a moment. Key turns to the on position, but goes no further. Might that imply a starter switch? Of course, now where is it? Looking about, it doesn't seem to be anywhere. Go find the operators manual. Surely it must say where it should be? Leaf through the pages, and there is a nice diagram of the dash panel, labeling all of the various assorted switches. Follow item number 26 to the appropriate spot under the console, look at the actual console. Nothing. Curious. Get out and look at the wiring. Something is going into the dash. Oh well remove dash. Well, look at this, a switch buried inside. Must be a fancy new anti-theft device. Well, make sure everything is ready, hit the switch... Starter relay starts to clatter in a noisy fashion.... Nothing else happens. Battery is fine, wires are all looking to be in a fine position. Could it be that the damn starter has seized up after six months in the garage? Couldn't be. It worked last October. Now how to test the starter, or at least insure that power is actually getting to the starter. Go grab the booster cables! Hmmm, they do not seem to fit into the little space that is available. At least they do not fit without hitting either the frame, or the exhaust pipe. (There is even less room to go and try and jump the two poles on the relay.) Next phase... Go find a battery cable and add it to the end of the starter, so I can get the cable onto it, insuring a rapid flow of power to the starter. I quickly discovered that the nut on the starter is not metric, nor is it imperial. The damn thing is Whitworth. Find the Whitworth wrenches and with much unhappiness, pain et cetera, manage to get the nut off, a cable on, and the nut back on. Hook up the booster cable, make sure the key is in the on position, apply the other end of the booster cable to the battery. Nothing. So, we seem to have an unco-operative starter here. No problem, I have another. So lets go test it and make sure it works. It doesn't. Time to remove the starter. Oh, what a convienent position it is lodged into.... Well, first things first. Remove the cables. Once removed, I can get at the lower nut holding the starter in. It comes off with a bit of a struggle, but a socket and extension bars manage to give enough leverage. Now for the top nut. Get another extension bar to add to the long reach and remove the top nut. Of course, the starter will not move, being firmly corroded into position. Get a crowbar, and it moves... (You can all see, this only gets worse...) Getting the starter loose, it becomes very apparant that unlike a Mini, this starter is not going to go very farther unless I take the exhaust pipe off (again). So off to battle I go, removing this damn obstruction. Manoeuvering the starter out from its nice snug home is no fun. It does manage to drop out eventually, but you have to get underneath the vehicle and play with the heavy boat anchor. Now that we have the starter out, we can consult our trusty manual one would think... Not a chance. Just take the thing apart, clean up all the surfaces, check the wires are fine, the brushes touch the armature and put it back together again. Grab the battery out of the Rover, get the booster cables, and apply power. It spins very happily. Now reverse the process, and put the starter back in... Well, I must say, that it falls out a lot easier than it falls back up. A bit of a fight, and in it goes, and the bottom nut gets placed on the stud. Now for the top nut. Have I entioned that its placement is not in the mose convienent spot? If not, let me say that its placement sucks. Getting your hands around the top of the starter is not easy, even for one used to playing with Mini's. Of course, I dropped the nut the first time around, and the starter being where it is, it doesn't hit the floor. It gets caught between the starter and the engine block. getting it out of there is no fun either. Side note: Heat shields, while useful when the engine actually runs, only gets in the way from a rescue mission. Happily, dissassembling a fishing rod, I was able to go fishing for it and get it back to the surface. (Really! That is how I got it out.) The second attempt to attach it is successful, and the starter is back in its snug home, wires reattached. It was also after eleven o'clock, I was covered in grease and oil, tired, damp and cold (It was in the thirties here, raining, and sleeting. The trees are covered in ice), so I have called it a night. Tommorrow we shall try and start the Rover again, after of course, I reattach the exhaust pipe. For those who wish to try the above at home, insure that the left wing is nowhere to be seen. If it is, the above would be a nightmare to try and do. Not for the faint of heart. In fact, if someone was to do this with the wing on, I say commit them to the nearest lunatic asylum. Rgds, Dixon PS, My voltage tester is dead, but that is a minor inconvience. Trying to figure out which wires to to what on the front harnedd is another problem. All of the woven coverings are a uniform brown, the wires inside a uniform black. Getting them reconnected in the right order is going to be a pain... BTW, Why is it, when I begin to post my long diatribes that traffic here suddenly drops to nothing? I figure that I have my audience cringing in fear that they may have to do the same thing, or laughing on the floor hysterically at the trials and tribulations on reserecting a Rover, stored for eighteen years or so... So David, you still want one of these things? -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Apr 21 05:45:13 1993 Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca Subject: OVLR: April newsletter From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1993 22:38:03 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec Note: Hey, one that appears here in the same month! ----------------------------------------------------------------------- OTTAWA VALLEY LAND ROVERS 1016 NORMANDY CRESCENT, OTTAWA, ONTARIO, CANADA R2C OL4 1 APRIL 1993 G' day eh. FRON THE EDITOR.... My 1968 Series IIA is getting a little tatty. The seats are original, which is quite obvious, in fact, most of the vehicle is original down to the Lucas sealed beam headlamps that serve mostly as a warning to oncoming motorists. The vehicle has been in service for twenty-five years (eighteen with me) and been a pleasure to own, maintain and drive. When I think of it, when was the last time you saw a twenty-five year old vehicle of any kind tooling down the road. Land Rovers are the worlds most versatile vehicle and one of the most durable, but they do not last forever. Many people, such as me, are faced with a number of options, spend a bundle and restore, just repair, or drive it until it dies. The option of buying a new Land Rover does not exist at the moment, but would be welcome. Lets hope Land Rover Canada brings the Land Rover 90 Defender into Canada. The type without speed stipes, loud stereo radios, magnesium wheels, plush carpets and V-8 engines designed to propel the R.M.S. Queen Mary. We would appreciate heaters, possibly a galvanized frame, plain pressed steel wheels (16" please), a galvanized bulkhead, a 2 1/2 petrol or turbo diesel engine, at a cost of less than two loaded YJ Jeeps. Land Rover has been focusing on the high priced end of the market to date. How about something for the folks who pay taxes, sleep with their wives, and have the occasional pint. VOLUNTEERS....The club always needs people to do things. If you have a burning desire to help, why not give President Yves Fortin a call, (613) 237-9719, you could help some poor Sod get his Land Rover running, or you could help at a club event. We currently have openings for the Frame Oiler this fall. Where else could you be covered with smelly, dirty, sticky oil up to your ying-yang, and enjoy yourself. OVLR ANNIVERSARY BOOK....This First Epistle on OVLR is now being written by Mike MCD. I suppose that makes Mike an epistler when you come to think of it. This should be a good story complete with pictures. Mike is having difficulty in remembering the facts so he is making up what he can not remember. The book will feature a centre fold of Bates, naked, armed with a portable radio, chasing after a bear in the early morning. The book covers the first ten years of OVLR and will be available for a pittance, save your pennies and buy a book. We need the money. THE APRIL EXECUTIVE MEETING... A good time was had by the executive and guests. Incidental to the good fun, OVLR's business was conducted. The Tenth Anniversary Book details were resolved (Mike and Yves do everything). The Club's policy on Club assets for rent or loan was discussed. The first advertisement was received from Octopus Precision Products, West Vancouver and appears on page 6. Treasurer Tom Mayor reports the club is still solvent. Look for good deals on club hats etcetera at the Maple Syrup Rally. NEXT EXECUTIVE MEETING, WEDNESDAY, 28 APRIL 1993 (a week earlier than usual), 7:30 PM at BELAMYS RESTAURANT, 150 ROBERTSON ROAD, NEPEAN, (613) 596-6281. Come join us for supper and a pint. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CLUB EVENTS APRIL....MAPLE SYRUP RALLY is scheduled for Sunday, 18 April at Vern Fairhead's farm near Shawville, Quebec. Chef Harry and his able assistant cook Bates, are ready to put on a feast you will not forget. The menu: French Toast, Sausages, Beans a la Harry, lots of Maple Syrup and coffee. The price is $7.50 for adults and $4.00 for children under age 6. Directions; find your way to Shawville and follow the map to Vern's farm. If you arrive at the West Gate Shopping Centre located at Merivale Road and Carling Avenue before 9:00 AM, you can travel in the good company of OVLR members to Vern's farm. Lunch is served at 12:30 PM followed by a Club parts auction. If you get lost, call Vern at - [map] MAY....ENGINE TUNE-UP is scheduled for SATURDAY, 8 MAY, 9:00am at MINIMAN MOTORS located in the WEST CARLTON INDUSTRIAL PARK. Ted Rose is organizing the session and available to help. Tune-up parts are available from MINIMAN at the site. MINIMAN is in the process of setting up a Land Rover parts inventory and ordering system. Do not let the weather stop you, we will have access to the garage. As an added bonus, Mike MCD, with your trusty Editor will tune radio aerials for your CB or amateur mobile equipment. When properly tuned, you should be able to talk farther than you can see. Bring any spare parts you may have and flog them off on a friend. Here is how to get to MINIMAN. Take the QUEENSWAY WEST to CARP ROAD (past Kanata), SOUTH (left) onto CARP ROAD to the PETRO-CANADA, then RIGHT onto WESTBROOK and LEFT onto WALLGREEN. If you get lost call (613) 836-4283. Why not have a pint and lunch after at the CHESHIRE CAT PUBLIC HOUSE, north of the Queensway on Carp Road. JUNE.......TENTH ANNIVER8ARY BIRTHDAY PARTY....ll, 12