Toy4x4 Digest          Thu, 31 Jul 97 12:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 341
 Today's Topics:
 '94 Factory Manuals Wanted (2 msgs)
 (was once) Lift Selection (2 msgs)
 ** The Ultimate Toy ** (6 msgs)
 35" vs 33"
 Bear with me.. rebuttal (2 msgs)
 Bear with me please...
 Blown Head Gasket ? (2 msgs)
 Charge light (3 msgs)
 Cruise Control information:
 gearing
 H4 Headlights (2 msgs)
 Hauling Mountain Bikes (2 msgs)
 Horn Installation Info. (2 msgs)
 Pismo Advice
 Shift points
 Subject: Bear with me please...
 Suspension Install Update (3 msgs)
 toy 4x4
 Toyota 4x4 Magazine
 Ultimate Toyota
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 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 08:50:31 -0500
 From: Michael Pluimer  Subject: '94 Factory Manuals Wanted
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Anyone have their '94 Toy 4x4 PU V6 factory service manuals that
 they'd like to part with?  I don't really want to fork out $160 to order the
 two manuals new.  Otherwise, does anyone have any opinions
 regarding the Haynes or Chilton's manuals?  Is one better than the other
 or are they both pretty lousy?  Thanks.
 Michael Pluimer
 '94 Toy 4x4 PU, Reg. Cab, V6, 5 spd.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 11:05:18 -0500
 From: John Vargus  Subject: '94 Factory Manuals Wanted
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Well i have all 4 sets ( kind of redudnant i know ) but each served a
 purpose at the time.
 Haynes  - was the first manuals ever bought - they were sufficient for
 light duty work and some specs ive since got rid of most of them.
 Factory Manuals - Very specific to the t and i's dotted. Also have factory
 manuals for exact specifications and procedures.  Contain very good
 troubleshooting procedures for the specific car that the manual covers.
 160 covers one model in great detail.
 Chilton Anniversary issue import guide - Very thorough and covers just
 about everything needed to do a job. Step by Step ie... remove radiator
 bolts...watch this and that. General troubleshooting but covers many cars.
 Great tips sections. Definitely worth the 20.00
 Chilton Professinal series - Very good but expect a mechanic background
 somewhat.  They leave the little stuff to common knowledge. But cover the
 hard stuff in detail. 110.00 will get you a range of about 5 years. all
 imports.
 Have to purchase through a chilton representiative.  If you decide on this
 book i can get them here and pass them on to you, I have a pretty good deal
 worked out with the guy.
 This goes out to anyone, if i can be of assitance let me know
 Depends upon your mechanical abilities and money.
 Personally I like factory and chilton.
 Just my opinion...
 John A. Vargus
 At 08:50 AM 7/31/97 -0500, you wrote:>Anyone have their '94 Toy 4x4 PU V6 factory service manuals that>they'd like to part with?  I don't really want to fork out $160 to order the>two manuals new.  Otherwise, does anyone have any opinions>regarding the Haynes or Chilton's manuals?  Is one better than the other>or are they both pretty lousy?  Thanks.>>Michael Pluimer>'94 Toy 4x4 PU, Reg. Cab, V6, 5 spd.> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 06:11:56 -0500
 From: Chris & Nicki Yorke  Subject: (was once) Lift Selection
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 James Brink wrote:> DRM033@aol.com wrote:>>   My friend just bought a 91 Caprice LT1 ex-police car with 150,000> miles for  $1300. Runs like a>> top, & still has the spotlight.  I want one now.>>>> By the way, that car is GREAT to drive on the Interstate.....>> Yeah, I know what you mean. I had an '85 ex-CHP Ford Mustang for a few>> years in college. Pretty scary when you have to carry a full-size> spare> tire in the trunk for ballast.>> Oh, the Crown Victoras run well too. More on this later; were getting> off subject material here...>> --> Jim Brink - Manhattan Beach, CA         1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R/M5> Toyota/ASE Certified Technician         32"BFG All-Terrains> (brinkjm@earthlink.net)                 LockRight/4.10 Gears> ************************************************************> **********> TLCA# 6184 / Friends of the Mojave Road (FOMR) / MRVMA-DESERT> EXPLORERS
 We had a Dodge police car when I was a kid. It had the 383
 Interceptor, you talk about a fun car. We would go to a dirt track in
 Tx. and run it sometimes got beat once by a Vette and that is only
 because he could turn his around a coerne at high speeds and my stepdad
 couldnt.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 13:49:33 -0500
 From: "John Schultz"  Subject: (was once) Lift Selection
 To:  Speaking of police cars, I saw one today with his lights flashing and he
 was sitting right behind me along the interstate, a Crown Vic I believe.
 Looks like I will be putting all of that "inadequate equipment" stuff I
 learned on here last week to good use>:^/  I've had enough of all of this
 police car nonsense now!!  Brian, howzabout letting me borrow your 33's for
 about an hour 0;)
 John> James Brink wrote:>>> DRM033@aol.com wrote:>>>>   My friend just bought a 91 Caprice LT1 ex-police car with 150,000>> miles for  $1300. Runs like a>>> top, & still has the spotlight.  I want one now.>>>>>> By the way, that car is GREAT to drive on the Interstate.....>>> Oh, the Crown Victoras run well too. More on this later; were getting>> off subject material here...
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:57:42 +0200
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
 To:  Preface: It's *MY* dream and it can cost as much as I want too :-) All the
 work would be done by myself so I'd have essentially no cost other than parts,
 not much Toyota about my Toy though ....
 Your basic use: Rockcrawler, mud bogger, all around super-4x4-toy !
 Frame and Body: 1990 style Xcab body & bed on 1985 frame with frame
 shortened to 105" and bed bobbed to fit the frame. Front frame rails
 are lengthened 4" and the crossmember also moved forward the same
 amount to accomodate the power plant and to move the front axle forward
 a bit to keep the 35's out of the fenders and to allow the use of longer
 front springs and the use of a 4 bolt Saginaw power steering box, done so
 in this manner as to not hurt the approach angle by just lengthening the frame
 rails.
 Tire size: 35" BFG M/T's ...
 Engine (type, size, induction): 5.7L Vortec V8
 Tranny: World Class T-5 from newer Camaro's... 2.95:1 1st gear
 Transfer Case(s): Dana 300 (2.6:1) w/extra external, bolt-on 4:1 reduction
 unit.
 Adapters (if any): Transfer case to tranny
 Front Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Dodge Dana 60, 4:10's, ARB, Narrowed
 Rear Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Full-floating Dana 60, 4:10's, ARB,
 Narrowed
 Particular reasons for your choices?
 Gear ratio of the tranny would make it excellent for low rpm
 street driving and gas mileage (i.e. cross-country driving),
 Yet the transfer case setup would give plenty of low range gear ratio
 options (~80:1 crawl ratio). Streetability is the main drawback to
 an NV4500 in my opinion as it's like having a 3-spd with a granny
 gear and an overdrive.
 As for the Dana 300, say what you will but a Dana 300 doesn't have an
 aluminum housing ... Need at least 35" tires to raise the pumpkins of
 the axle beef provided by the f&r D60's, no need to worry about shedding a
 pinion if you don't have to. Not only would it be a super off-road truck,
 it   should perform pretty nicely at the dragstrip too, living up to it's
 name:
 ** The Ultimate Toy **
 -----------------------------------------------------------------
 Jack Alford              Off-Road.com - The best dirt on the net!
 jalford@off-road.com              http://www.off-road.com/
 Decatur, AL
 '86 Xcab Toyota Pickup -  33x12.50 BFG MT
 Solid Front Axle - Marlin Crawler - ARB's - 4.88's
 SFWDA  -  TLCA #3415  -  Rocket City Rock Crawlers
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 12:16:04 -0400
 From: john skaggs  Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Frame and Body: 85 4Runner, Fiberglass front end (no worries about getting that
 Caddy in) bobbed rear
 Your basic use:  All around from mud to rock to mountain trails
 Tire size:  35"BFG M/T's
 Engine (type, size, induction):  500 CUBE Caddy with EFI (Tim Taylor Grunts)
 Tranny:  Reworked Ford C-6
 Transfer Case(s):  NP205 with reduction gears
 Adapters (if any): What ever it takes to get in my combo
 Front Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio):  Dana 60, ARB, 4:10, CTIS
 Rear Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio):  Dana 60, ARB, 4:10, CTIS
 Particular reasons for your choices?  Tough, Torquey, bobbed 4Runner would look
 WAY COOL!
 John Skaggs
 TLCA# 5560
 85 4Runner (gettin taller soon) still only halfway there
 Akron, Ohio
 John.Skaggs@ab.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 97 11:55:57 -0600
 From: bwiencek@kcnet.com
 Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>LetM-Us say you get to spend $6-10k in parts. This would>effectively eliminate exotic items and keep it somewhat>reasonable.
 Gee.. this is right about what I need to start planning on doing anyhow...
 The 4 runner is too darn stock right now...  I think you forgot 2 fields
 Base Truck Type:  1985 4Runner
 Lift: 4" springs.. probably production fronts and Mazda/hybrid rears? $500
 Shocks: RS9000's $180
 Your basic use: 50% street, 30% towing, 15% off-road, 5% hauling junk around
 for other projects :-P
 Tire size: Dunlop Radial Rover RV's 33x12.5x15" (or 16) on some sort of
 aluminum rims (for looks) Approx price $1000
 Engine (type, size, induction): 22RE, stock bore & stroke, '84 pistons,
 milled & ported & polished 20R head, oversize 22R valves, ported stock
 intake, Custom grind cam, Tri-y header, 2.25" mandrel bent exhaust High-flow
 injectors.  plus all other basic rebuild stuff (gaskets, rings, bearings,
 etc.) Cost $1800 reason: less $$$ than a swap.
 Tranny: Stock Toy 5-speed, HD spec. built clutch.- heck it's cheaper than the
 centerforce, and lasts longer $150
 Transfer Case(s): Marlin 4.70 second transfer case (used behind stock case),
 and driveshaft mods - $1800  Low gearing and a choice of ratios at your
 disposal.
 Front Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Stock Solid axle, 4.88 gears, ARB air
 locker
 Rear Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio): Stock, 4.88, detroit locker or
 arb...haven't decided yet (approx-$1500/pr)  Gotta have Max traction, and the
 4.88's are perfectly suited for the highway driving.
 Particular reasons for your choices? - (see above)
 That should about get ME 98% of the places I need to go. (or should be going)
 If I had a little bit more, I'd add to my list - custom Nerf bars for body
 protection, nice bumpers F&R, and a 8K-9K lb winch.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:32:38 -0700
 From: Locke Christman  Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  John Skaggs wrote:>>Frame and Body: 85 4Runner, Fiberglass front end (no worries about getting>that>                Caddy in) bobbed rear>>Your basic use:  All around from mud to rock to mountain trails>>Tire size:  35"BFG M/T's>>Engine (type, size, induction):  500 CUBE Caddy with EFI (Tim Taylor Grunts)>>Tranny:  Reworked Ford C-6>>Transfer Case(s):  NP205 with reduction gears
 John,  Did you see the bobbed FJ55 in one of the 4 wheel magazines
 recently?  It was in either Peterson's or Four Wheeler in the last 2-3
 months.  I'll try to find it tonight.  It had a 500 CI caddy and Ford 9"
 diffs.  Your Ultimate 4 Runner sounds very similar.  By the way, why a
 C6 instead of a TH 400 or TH 350?  Just curious.
 Locke
 ------------------------------
 Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 12:35:14 -0500
 From: chris austin  Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Todd and Terry wrote:> Tranny:  NV 4500
 You said you have a NV4500 is that in a toyota and was it hard to put in
 and was it wort it?
 Chris Austin Jr.
 86'4x4 Xtra cab
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:55:25 -0700
 From: Locke Christman  Subject: ** The Ultimate Toy **
 To: "'Toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Starting point:  '80 Toy SB because the early ones are still my favorite
 body style.  The only thing better would be to import an early crew cab
 to use as a starting point (or better yet an FJ 45 or 55, but thats
 another list........)
 Your basic use:  Looking for an all around, go anywhere rig that is also
 a daily driver.  Given that I live in Western Oregon I had better be
 prepared for deep mud holes and wet sloppy snow.  I also want the
 suspension flex and TADs to tackle the rocks when I get the chance to
 head south or east.  Reasonable highway drivability required to get to>local wheelin' trails but would trailer for long trips.> Tire size:  35-36" Swamper TSL SX or Boggers.  Either would be great for
 just about any off-road terrain.  Also a set of Swamper radials for>every day driving.> Engine (type, size, induction):  Ford 302 V8, EFI.  Not that I have
 anything against Chevys but I like the compact size of the Ford and the
 fact that the distributor is up front and not jammed against the fire>wall.  Besides that it's a little unusual to go Ford instead of GM.> Tranny:  My first choice would be the NV4500 for the low 1st gear and
 overdrive 5th, however it may be too long in an '80 SB with dual 'cases.
 A second strong possibility would be a Ford T-18 (also has low 1st but
 not OD), which may be a better choice to maintain a workable overall>length for the tranny/transfer assembly.> Transfer Case(s):  Dual cases with stock gears in front case and Marlin
 gears in the rear case.  Nothing like lots of sticks on the floor and>plenty of gear combination choices!> Adapters (if any):  I'm not sure what is needed to adapt the 302 to the
 NV4500, but I suppose a bell housing adapter and some kind of hybrid
 clutch assembly.  In the case of either the NV4500 or the T-18 a tranny
 to Toy transfer adapter is needed.> Front Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio):  Toyota, upgraded to vented brake>rotors, ARB, 4.88 gears.> Rear Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio):  Toyota, upgraded to disk brakes,>ARB, 4.88 gears.
 Other stuff:  The old '80 toy would also require the following upgrades:
 PS, AC, complete gauges, new interior and paint, and finally an OME
 suspension lift (I understand that they are now available for US Toys),
 and a full cage.> Particular reasons for your choices?  Not the biggest and the baddest
 but appeals to me as being "cool".  Also this would provide plenty of
 capability for just about any off-road adventure that I would be likely
 to tackle (and maybe more).>Locke> ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 08:48 -0600 (MDT)
 From: "JC Nordyke"  Subject: 35" vs 33"
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Wil wrote:>35" advantages: The 2" of extra height makes an unbelievable difference>in ground clearance, and the 35's seem to have superior traction
 - -----------------------
 Just a note of clarification.  Even though the tire is 2" taller, you
 don't actually gain 2" of ground clearance.  You only gain 1" of ground
 clearance and you lose 1" of fender clearance.
 JC Nordyke  KC0BKC
 TLCA #2921
 jc.nordyke@mci.com
 '86 Shortie Pickup  '88 4Runner
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:33:52 -0500
 From: billm@usa.compass-analysis.com
 Subject: Bear with me.. rebuttal
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 15:12:46 -0700
 From: Eric Stegall  Subject: Bear with me please...(long)
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>...and I believe that there is a market for them out here for the
 harder-core 4 wheelers out there.> I think the REAL hard core 4 wheelers are the people who build their  =20
 4WDs,
 not buy them.  And these hard core wheelers use Toyota's, not UNISMOG's.
 What you say has some merit, Eric.  Having traveled a fair amount I can  =20
 tell you that while I have had 4 wheelers in the past (Bronco's, Jeeps  =20
 and my current passion my 1990 4Runner) I can tell you that I can accept  =20
 the limitations of these vehicles.  Perhaps I mis-spoke when I used the  =20
 term "hard-core".  I did not mean to offend anyone and I am sorry if I  =20
 did but, let me explain myself.  I have traveled extensively and can tell =20=
 =20
 you the following.  In the middle east, In remote parts of Europe, South  =20
 Africa, Sweden, South America, Australia, and even our neighbors to the  =20
 north, Canada,.. If there is a location where not getting there could  =20
 cost human lives or Millions of dollars (oil industry etc),.. you will  =20
 not see a Toyota.  What you will see is a UNIMOG.  Over the decades,  =20
 these vehicles have been used everyplace where it has been PROVEN nothing =20=
 =20
 else can go.  Not Toyotas, Not LandCruisers/Rovers, Not Humvees.  We are  =20
 talking vehicles that can climb 100% grades, ford several feet of water,  =20
 can climb over 2.5-3 foot ledges etc. without modification.  I have  =20
 personally seen one pull two Land Rovers out of a massive mud pit at the  =20
 same time.  Add to this the fact that you have low crawl ratios  =20
 approaching 100-1 and higher, Massive Mercedes Truck Diesels and Portal  =20
 axles (approaching 118-20" of clearance on some models) and you have a  =20
 vehicle that can pretty much go anywhere, anytime.  This is a vehcle that =20=
 =20
 is recognized worldwide as the premier off road, life saving (when set up =20=
 =20
 with the ambulance kit) and remote research and expedition vehicle.
 So by "hard core" I meant the people whose very lives depend on their  =20
 vehicle, and the people who are tasked to go out and save the lives of  =20
 people in, not neccesarily lesser, but different "recreational"  =20
 vehicles.
 Enough said on that subject.  A few years ago I did see a Toyota Land  =20
 Cruiser in Sweden that was set up with a massive lift and 44" tires that  =20
 was being used (allegedly) by Ski Rescue... HOT!  I also saw it here in  =20
 the states on some web page that showed it with a blonde swedish girl in  =20
 a bikini standing on it.. HOTTER!
 -Bill Miranda
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 11:20:28 -0400 (EDT)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: Bear with me.. rebuttal
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Thu, 31 Jul 1997 billm@usa.compass-analysis.com wrote:> else can go.  Not Toyotas, Not LandCruisers/Rovers, Not Humvees.  We are  =20> talking vehicles that can climb 100% grades, ford several feet of water,  =20
 Wow. 100 % grades. I am impressed.
 Dr. Karl Bellve
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 Phone: (508) 856-3785
 Fax  : (508) 856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 07:30:28 -0700
 From: Eric Stegall  Subject: Bear with me please...
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Sorry, I did not mean to badger anyone or put any vehicle down, but I just
 couldn't resist.  Oops.
 - --Eric
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:11:28 -0400
 From: Thomas Olenio  Subject: Blown Head Gasket ?
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hello,
 It appears that I am very lucky... My neighbor just gave me his 1985
 Toyota pickup.  I don't think he knew what he had, if half of what I
 read in the digest is true.
 My question is in regards to blown head gaskets.  The engine is a 22R,
 no EFI, 4wd, 132,000 miles and I have found some oil in the radiator and
 coolant in the oil.
 The engine was running fine when the prior owner pulled over on the
 highway for 2 minutes.  When he got back in the engine was running hot
 (not in red though).  He drove the 2 miles home, shut it off and gave it
 to me when he saw the coolant in the oil.  The engine never went into
 the red).
 I have heard that sometimes timing chains can rub a hole in the case of
 the 22R engine and cause this problem.  Any truth to that story?
 Are there any common problems or reasons (other than just high mileage
 and wear) that the 22R engine has in regards to the problem I describe?
 Looking forward to getting my Toyota back on the road.
 Tom
 tolenio@world.std.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 97 09:40:00 -0500
 From: Rosenberger Bud  Subject: Blown Head Gasket ?
 To: "mail@UUCP {Toy4x4@tlca.org}"  Lucky you!  I have an 85 with a 22r in the barn with a blown head gasket.
 No oil in the coolant but oil is milky and it steams when running.  You
 can do a head gasket in about 10 hours using a flashlight under your chin
 while parked at the curb starting at 11:00 pm in Tennessee while on
 vacation and youre 1300 miles from home!  I had to rent a torque wrench
 but it all went well:)    (except that I had a clogged radiator and
 overheated and blew it again after about 2 hours of driving:(  )
 Yes the chain can wear thru, and you should probably change it if you do
 replace the head gasket.
 Just pull the plugs and look at them.  It should be obvious if one or 2
 are all wet/smell bad/look bad.  If they all look OK, pull the valve
 cover off and look at the chain, tensioners, case.  You should be able to
 see the troubles.
 Others??
 Bud
 ----------
 From:  Thomas Olenio
 Sent:  Thursday, July 31, 1997 9:11 AM
 To:  Rosenber; 'mail@UUCP '
 Subject:  Blown Head Gasket ?
 Hello,
 It appears that I am very lucky... My neighbor just gave me his 1985
 Toyota pickup.  I don't think he knew what he had, if half of what I
 read in the digest is true.
 My question is in regards to blown head gaskets.  The engine is a 22R,
 no EFI, 4wd, 132,000 miles and I have found some oil in the radiator and
 coolant in the oil.
 The engine was running fine when the prior owner pulled over on the
 highway for 2 minutes.  When he got back in the engine was running hot
 (not in red though).  He drove the 2 miles home, shut it off and gave it
 to me when he saw the coolant in the oil.  The engine never went into
 the red).
 I have heard that sometimes timing chains can rub a hole in the case of
 the 22R engine and cause this problem.  Any truth to that story?
 Are there any common problems or reasons (other than just high mileage
 and wear) that the 22R engine has in regards to the problem I describe?
 Looking forward to getting my Toyota back on the road.
 Tom
 tolenio@world.std.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 07:01:22
 From: Ed Ruf  Subject: Charge light
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 AT 22:49 7/30/97 -0700, Todd and Terry wrote:>I've got an intermitent problem with my 87 22R pickup.  Running the road at>65, stereo on and headlights, I'm getting an intermitent glow from my>charge light and brake light.  If I slow to 55 it usually stops.>Alternator is putting out 57 A, 13.47 V.  A friend told me that it's my>voltage regulator.  Alternator was rebuilt just over a year ago.  Anybody>got any ideas.
 |From the annals of the old toy-l faq:
 SECTION 3.0:  ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
 +3.1:  Alternator repairs
 If the charge light AND brake light on your dash come on and stay on,
 the culprit is a problem in your charging system.  When these lights
 come on, it means your battery is not charging.  These lights will
 rarely signify a battery being at fault though.  Most often, the
 alternator belt is slipping or the alternator brushes are worn and the
 alternator is not putting out enough voltage.  When the output of the
 alternator drops below 12 volts, a relay kicks in and your dash lights
 come on.  List members have noted brush failure from between 60000 miles
 and 120000 miles with an average life of about 100000 miles.
 Your choices:
 1.) Go to a shop and get hammered for about $200 for a rebuilt alternator.
 2.) Go to a discount parts house and get a rebuilt alternator with a
 lifetime (HAHA!) warranty for about $75.
 3.) Go to a discount parts house and get a new set of brushes for about
 $4.50.  Install and drive another 100000 miles.
 The brushes available from Toyota run about $12 for a pair, but generic
 ones are just as good.  There are now brush "assemblies" available as
 well for some Toyota alternators.  These are for those who are not handy
 with a soldering iron or are lazy.  Check with your Toyota dealer (or
 one of the dealers on the Toyota Pages) for availability.  Instead of
 soldering the new brushes in place, you simply snap in a new brush
 assembly.
 If you can operate a soldering iron, or are willing to try, do number 3.
 The only other things that go wrong are the coil fusing, bearing
 failure, and the little resistor pack burning out.  However, these
 rarely fail.  The brushes just simply wear down to nothing.
 Disassembly of the alternator:
 Remove the alternator from the car and remove back cover (the side
 opposite the one with the pulley).  This is often easier said than done
 as nuts and bolts have a way of not loosening when you want them to.
 You may wish to soak the pivot and tightening nuts with penetrating oil
 if you are having difficulty removing them.  When removing the cover, if
 your model has phillips head screws, be warned that the screw heads
 strip very easily.  I STRONGLY advise you use an impact screwdriver to
 remove the screws before even trying to with a regular screwdriver.
 Impact screwdrivers are available at Sears for a little under $20 and
 can be had elsewhere for slightly less.
 Desolder the old brushes being careful not to let the springs get away
 from you as the solder lets go.  Note that Toyota uses a
 high-temperature solder in most alternators, so you will have to allow
 the old solder to heat up well.  Solder in the new brushes with the
 springs in place (which takes a little manual dexterity).  Using a
 toothpick or straightened paperclip, push the brushes down and slide the
 pick/clip through the holes provided to hold the brushes down (starting
 from outside of the casing).  Put the alternator back together.  Remove
 the pick/clip.  You should hear two distinct "clicks" as the brushes
 drop into place.  If you need to use additional solder, make sure you
 use a high-temp type and not the 60/40 solder found at Radio Shack.
 Install the alternator back into the car.  Make sure you tension the
 belt as directed in your owners manual.  Tension and tension adjustment
 methods vary from car to car, but a loose belt can cause your warning
 lights to come back on and a tight belt can harm the alternator,
 possibly causing bearing failure.
 Save the impact screwdriver for your next job.  These come in very
 handy.  If you already had one, you're ahead of the game.
 contributing: Chris Myer (cmyer@su102a.ess.harris.com)
 Aaron Lung (lung@san-jose.ate.slb.com)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:16:59 +0200
 From: Jack Alford  Subject: Charge light
 To: >Alternator is putting out 57 A, 13.47 V.  A friend told me that it's my>voltage regulator.  Alternator was rebuilt just over a year ago.  Anybody>got any ideas.
 How/what type load did you put on the alternator to verify it was putting out
 57 amps ?
 - jack
 ------------------------------
 Date: 31 Jul 1997 12:57:38 -0700
 From: Robert Elsemore  Subject: Charge light
 To: tntsteel@kingsnet.com (Return requested),>65, stereo on and headlights, I'm getting an intermittent glow from my>charge light and brake light.  If I slow to 55 it usually stops.
 I would guess that you have a bad diode in your rectifier assembly.
 Unfortunate for you, individual diodes cannot be replaced.  Have a
 alternator/starter shop check it out for you.  That service is usually
 free.
 - -Rob Elsemore, 85 4Runner  ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 11:37:38 -0600
 From: dicknu@usa.net
 Subject: Cruise Control information:
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Can anyone point me toward a source of information about
 cruise controls?  I have in mind trying to modify the cruise
 on my '90 Toy SR5 v6 PU truck.  I am thinking of trying to
 change the drop out speeds (from 10 to, say 20 mph) and
 to  have the system remember the last speed it was
 set to for all situations except reset, and dropping below
 the minimum speed.
 Thanks
 dickn'
 RAVEN Home PC Consulting       (303)452-3089                       USA
 Dick NUTTALL       11459 Irma Dr.        Northglenn CO  80233-2169
 http:/www.geocities.com/Athens/1835         mialto:dicknu@usa.net
 mailto:dickn@super.zippo.com       http://super.zippo.com/~dicknu
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 05:38:17 -0500
 From: Chris & Nicki Yorke  Subject: gearing
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Saw something in the Downey catalog the other day that recalibrates the
 speedo. I am sure there are other.
 Chris
 yorke@bellsouth.net
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:15:38 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Kevin Valentine  Subject: H4 Headlights
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Ok I recieved my H4 headlights and installed the H4 bulbs inside the lens.
 It is a really cool setup.
 I have not installed the assemblies into my truck yet however.
 Now I'm worried about the wattage I selected.  I went with the 100/80 w
 halogen H4's.
 Has anyone used these?  Did they burn up any wiring?  Were they entirely
 too bright for use on public roads (blinding oncoming)?
 I believe the stock lights are like 35/60w or something but it is a sealed
 beam halogen that does not direct the light as well,  right?
 I'm outta here (hoping my new lights are not going to give oncoming
 drivers a sunburn or give my truck some new pyrotechnic features)...
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:06:21 PDT
 From: "Boyd,Tom"  Subject: H4 Headlights
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Somebody wrote:(sorry, I can't "see" who the sender is)
 "Now I'm worried about the wattage I selected.  I went with the 100/80 w
 halogen H4's.
 Has anyone used these?  Did they burn up any wiring?  Were they entirely
 too bright for use on public roads (blinding oncoming)?"
 I have the H4 headlights and I didn't use the bulbs that came with them
 which are what? 50/60?  Anyway, I think I put in the 60/80s and they
 are muy bright-o.  I also worry about blinding oncoming drivers so I
 pointed them down and to the right.  You can actually see where the
 beam cuts, and I mean cuts, the dark in half.  I tried to aim them
 down (through approximations) below the face of oncoming drivers.
 However, drivers of the lowered Japanese cars still get some in the
 face.  I aimed the drivers side light inward toward the passenger side
 while the passenger side light aims straight ahead.  I haven't had any
 complaints or tickets yet (knock on wood).  However, driving North on
 Interstate 5 going toward San Francisco one night with the brights on,
 I was flashed by truckers\ to turn down the brights who were on the
 South bound which was about 100 yards away on my left .  So be careful
 'cause they are "Hella" bright.
 Regards,
 Tom Boyd
 San Mateo, CA
 '86 4Runner
 Tom_Boyd@pa.xerox.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 07:59:29 -0500
 From: "James E Triplett" Subject: Hauling Mountain Bikes
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, nickkrest@batnet.com
 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 Nick Krest  wrote:
 Somebody wrote:
 "I am interested in finding out if anyone has done
 anything creative in an effort to haul bicycles around
 in the back of their trucks."
 I have a Cannondale bike mount for trucks which I can't use anymore
 because of the lo-boy shell I've put on. It uses a threaded rod (like a
 Yakima) to put pressure against two rubber-coated L-brackets, which press
 against the inside of the bed lip. Like a Yakima, it uses two QR skewers
 to hold the forks steady, and has two wheel forks, too. I see no reason
 why it would be incompatible with bedliners, and I'll sell it for $40.
 You pay the shipping.
 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 This sounds interesting...  I looked in the Performance Catalog and decided
 I really didn't like the "even with the rail" bike hauling position.  I
 suppose you could slide the "Burley" trailer and the front (bicycle) tires
 under the rack, but it seems like an awful lot of apparatus to haul
 50-60lbs of bikes.  Besides, the cab of the truck is already slamming into
 the wind, I don't really want the bikes up higher than the cab (even if it
 is just part of each bike).
 I saw exactly what I am looking for at Target.  However, it was their bike
 display and not for sale.  It consisted of an inverted "top hat" shaped
 (cross section) rail, with an adjustable "stop" at one end and an
 adjustable wire (1/2"dia) which looped around one of the tires.  Two of
 these could be mounted to a couple of 2X6's and laid flat in the bed.  Just
 what I need but I don't know if I'm up for building one.  The other thing I
 discovered at Target was some plastic "magazine files", and a plastic soda
 can dispenser.  Both had about the right amount of space for a bike tire.
 This could work (mounted to one 2X6), but may be too flimsy.
 My next exploration is going to be to look at some PVC pipe at the lumber
 yard.  I would think that between all the dish drying racks, child safety
 gates, shower shelves, and lumber yard materials, I could come up with
 something.  Actually what I *really* want is just a bike rack like they
 have at the library or the mall, except only three bikes wide.
 Enough rambling...  Sorry for the bandwidth consumption.  BTW, too bad Jay
 Kopycinski limited the $$$ on ** The Ultimate Toy **... I'd just go buy a
 new LandCruiser. (There's one "on sale" for $8K off the sticker - or only
 $47K - at the local dealer.)  Awesome!  I guess I would add a winch bumper,
 trick out the 3.4L with any and all performance upgrades, and spend the
 rest on stereo equipment for my T100.  Basically I love the thing pretty
 much stock (with 31" tires).
 Done!  Sorry!  Bye...
 - -Jet-> James E. Triplett
 1996 T-100 - 5 Spd - XtraCab - Evergreen Pearl (one year old on Sunday)
 jetriple@collins.rockwell.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 13:41:17 -0400
 From: David Stracher  Subject: Hauling Mountain Bikes
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I use a set of Bike Tights mounted to a 1x6. On the back side of the 1x6
 tack (or glue) an old inner tube sliced open to prevent the board from
 sliding. (You can use carpet instead). No need to physically attach the
 board to the bed with this setup.  Bike tights are simply fork mounts on a
 small fixture that allows easy attachment to a board.
 Also you can mount a couple of Yakima Wheel holders to the same board to
 put the front tires. I use this setup because it can easily be swapped
 between my Forerunner and friends pickups.
 Dave Stracher
 djstracher@bbn.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:06:52 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Kevin Valentine  Subject: Horn Installation Info.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hi list members:
 I just received my air horns/compressor from JC Whitney and realized that
 I should have listened more closely to those of you who have talked about
 this recently.  I got the Fiamm horns (they are blue) as is the
 compressor.  The kit appears to include everything but the wire and
 connectors.
 Can anyone repost or send direct to me the instructions for installing
 this horn kit.  The instructions on the package are terrible.  I guess the
 biggest thing I'm wondering about is how you locate the wire from the horn
 button in your steering wheel to connect it to to the new horn relay.
 Any info. is much appreciated.
 Thanks
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:34:57 -0700
 From: Scott Wilson  Subject: Horn Installation Info.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org, kvalenti@potlatch.esd112.wednet.edu
 Kevin Valentine wrote:> I just received my air horns/compressor from JC Whitney and realized that> I should have listened more closely to those of you who have talked about> this recently.  I got the Fiamm horns (they are blue) as is the> compressor.  The kit appears to include everything but the wire and> connectors.
 Just check out my web page.  I did a whole separte section on air horns,
 and included a wiring diagram.  :)
 Scott
 - --
 _____
 /_/_|_\__      Scott Wilson
 | _     _ :     Santa Clara, CA
 */_\---/_\'     http://www.scruz.net/~barneym/scott
 (_)   (_)
 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 14:16:54 -0700
 From: "Farrales, Deo"  Subject: Pismo Advice
 To: "'swilson@pacbell.net'" ,
 Hey Scott,
 I haven't heard any news about Pismo!!!  We're planning to go down there
 at the end of August.  Any advice?  How was camping in the dunes?
 Weather?
 Thanks,
 Deo F.   1992 4Runner V6, 31's, 4.56, original HG  (all stock, so far...)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 13:33:49 -0600
 From: Jeffrey Delzer  Subject: Shift points
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> From: Steve Capuano > Subject: Shift points>> What is the theory on shifting?  I know that torque levels off and drops before> horsepower peaks, but what is the happy medium? I can drive the piss out of my> truck, but I dont know when to shift properly.  Anotherwords my engine sees red> alot.
 I don't race or tow or haul much of anything with my truck, ('94 SR5 V6
 5-speed), it's just my only means of transportation year round, rain
 snow or shine. I've always shifted at 3000 RPM because that's where it
 feels like the power is very noticeably dropping off, and the next
 higher gear pulls fine at that point. The only time I run the engine
 over 3000 RPM is in 4th and 5th gears where it has a steady load on it.
 Redline is way up around 5700 (I think?), but I've never been close to
 that. I can only remember seeing about 4400 RPM one time when I was
 trying to get to Columbia, SC, before everyone I was visiting went to
 bed. Oh yeah, I was also following a gorgeous blonde in a red camaro,
 but that's a whole different story. For cruising around town, it seems
 to be most comfortable and responsive between 2000-3000 RPM, so that's
 where I keep it.
 Jeff Delzer
 '94 SR5 V6 Xtracab Pickup
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 11:02:05 -0500
 From: billm@usa.compass-analysis.com
 Subject: Subject: Bear with me please...
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org>Don't flame me for posting this as, as I stated above, I am just sending =20=
 =20
 =3D20>out a feeler and will NOT be posting anything like this again.
 I welcome differences of opinion, I just didn't want someone to go into a =20=
 =20
 tirade along the "toyota rules" line. (i've seen this on the J**p sites).
 I will check into All NATO surplus vehicles.  I was thinking of  =20
 specializing in 'MOGS because they're unique and i've seen them work.  I  =20
 don't know if the Toyotas can come in because, if they're 1970 and above  =20
 vintage, they have to meet emissions ($$$).  I know that the newer  =20
 vehicles sold and used over there are smog legal (at least the german  =20
 ones are) and eventually all european car makers will be building  =20
 vehicles that are legal for use here,.. it's cheaper than building  =20
 market-specific vehicle and we are the #1 market for ALL car makers  =20
 (except of course for peugeot... those kooky French!)
 If you all on this list wish, I will keep you updated (hopefully not in  =20
 such wordy messages)
 -Bill Miranda>>Thanks for your patience,>>Bill Miranda>1990 4Runner SR5/V6
 How come? Difference is interesting, and diversity reduces monotony.  Can =20=
 =20
 your friend or you get any NATO Toyotas?  I've seen a web site (Gibraltar =20=
 =20
 Toyota stock holdings) that sells Toyotas for this sort of purpose.
 Thanks,
 Brendan
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 08:48:47 -0400
 From: john skaggs  Subject: Suspension Install Update
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Well it starts out good but it gets worse as time goes on.
 The good part.. 6/28/97 Talked the BOSS(wife) into getting new suspension for
 the 4Runner, called RMOR and ordered it, they send it.
 The bad part.. 7/1-7/14 Tracked on the net thru UPS web page, saw it leave Grand
 Junction and go to Denver then saw half of it leave Denver and go back to Grand
 Junction, while the other half sits in Denver 8 days (UGH!).  Called RMOR and
 UPS and push UPS into action.
 The good part.. 7/15 The suspension gets here after going around in circles.
 7/18 Start installing the lift.  I started with the rear.  Had a few problems
 because of the rusty bolts becoming one with the rubber bushings, but it went
 pretty good once I got out the sawzall to cut the bolts.  The new rear springs
 went in without to many problems, actually the only problems I had was because I
 had no help.  The RS 9000's bushings gave me a little problem but not to much.
 The bad part.. 7/19 I get ready to start on the front and I look at the new
 springs, one of them has 4" written on it and the other has 5" written on it.
 There supposed to both be 5".  I call RMOR and tell them this, they said Oh $hit
 sorry we'll find out what happened.  They found out that they got one of my
 springs mixed up with someone elses.  My other spring got sent to Minnesota.
 They call this guy and he was supposed to have sent it back to RMOR on 7/19.
 Well it's 7/31 now and RMOR still doesn't have my other spring and my 4Runner is
 still sitting in the garage with it's head held down low.
 If you've read this far, I would like to ask you a question.  I like the guys at
 RMOR and have no hard feelings toward them but I'm getting tired of driving my
 wifes little Mazda to work.
 Would I be asking to much of RMOR if I asked them to just make me another spring
 and send it to me?  I am getting really tired of waiting for this other guy.  I
 have already sent back the wrong spring on 7/21 (RMOR paid for shipping back)
 Thanks for any opinions,
 John Skaggs
 TLCA# 5560
 85 4Runner (gettin taller soon) still only halfway there
 Akron, Ohio
 John.Skaggs@ab.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:24:15 -0400 (EDT)
 From: "Dr. Karl Bellve"  Subject: Suspension Install Update
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 On Thu, 31 Jul 1997, john skaggs wrote:> springs, one of them has 4" written on it and the other has 5" written on it.> There supposed to both be 5".  I call RMOR and tell them this, they said Oh $hit> sorry we'll find out what happened.  They found out that they got one of my
 I thought the driver side spring is supposed to be arched 1 inch more than
 the passenger side. Are you sure they screwed up (not counting what they
 said) ? The front springs are supposed to be arched differently (left and
 right hand springs).
 Dr. Karl Bellve
 Biomedical Imaging Group
 University of Massachusetts
 WWW  : http://molmed.ummed.edu/~kdb/
 Email: kdb@molmed.ummed.edu
 Phone: (508) 856-3785
 Fax  : (508) 856-1840
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:03:16 -0400
 From: john skaggs  Subject: Suspension Install Update
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> I thought the driver side spring is supposed to be arched 1 inch more than> the passenger side. Are you sure they screwed up (not counting what they> said) ? The front springs are supposed to be arched differently (left and> right hand springs).>>>> Dr. Karl Bellve
 You are right sort of, but I don't believe that the difference is a full inch
 though.  And yes RMOR does take into account the difference between the front
 springs. They have a 5" right side spring and a 5" left spring.  The springs I
 got were 4" right spring and a 5" right spring.
 John Skaggs
 TLCA# 5560
 85 4Runner (gettin taller soon) still only halfway there
 Akron, Ohio
 John.Skaggs@ab.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:05:26 -0700
 From: Dan Merrick  Subject: toy 4x4
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 I HATE TO SOUND LIKE A COUCH POTATO, BUT I WAS WATCHING TV LAST NIGHT, SOME
 SHOW IN AUSTRALIA ON "THE ANIMAL PLANET" CHANNEL(???). IT WAS A SHOW ABOUT
 SOME AUSTRALIAN REDNECK AND SOME AMERICAN CHICK DRIVING THROUGH THE
 "OUTBACK".. BUT THAT DOESN'T MATTER. THE POINT I AM TRYING TO MAKE IS THAT
 THEIR CROSS COUNTRY TRANSPORTATION WAS A NEWER (89-94) TOYOTA PICKUP. WELL,
 THIS PICKUP WAS TRICKED OUT!! ARB BULL BAR, ACCESSORY LIGHTS, UTILITY FLAT
 BED WITH CANVAS COVER (SORT OF LIKE A SOFT CAMPER SHELL)...AND A STRAIGHT
 AXLE FRONT SUSPENSION!!! I THINK IT WAS A DIESEL TOO...MAYBE I'LL MOVE TO
 AUSTRALIA.
 ON A DIFFERENT NOTE...DOES ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH REMOVING THE
 OVERLOAD LEAF IN AN OLDER (85) TOY. I HAVE SEEN A REPLACEMENT SPRING IN
 "DOWNEY" THAT SAYS IT REPLACES THE OVERLOAD SPRING FOR MORE PROGRESSIVE,
 SOFTER RIDE (MORE TRAVEL??) I DON'T WANT SOME CUSTOM SET-UP WITH SWAPPED IN
 SPRINGS FROM SOME OTHER MODEL TRUCK, JUST A CHEAP ($50-100) WAY TO GET GOOD
 SUSPENSION TRAVEL AND A GOOD HIGHWAY RIDE. OH, I HAVE AN 85 SHORTBED, 2"
 SHACKLES, RANCHO RS 9000'S.
 ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED!
 DAN
 (ddm@heartport.com)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 10:37:20 -0700
 From: "Greg/Becky Graves"  Subject: Toyota 4x4 Magazine
 To:  Does anyone know if there are any magazines out there devoted to Toyota 4x4
 owners? Also I have a 93 4Runner with factory 31" tires and wondered what
 the gear ratio is that the factory has installed.The factory brochure
 stated that the 31" tire option got you 4.88 gears with an automatic trans.
 I tried on a set of 32" tires and the truck was pretty soggy on the bottom
 end. It seems that the gear ratio that has been installed at the factory
 just can't be as steep as the brochure states.ggraves@az.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 15:05:21 -0500
 From: Brian Gallus  Subject: Ultimate Toyota
 To: "'toy4x4@tlca.org'"  Your basic use:  Rock, rock and more rock>> Tire size:  35-12.50-15 BFG MT's>> Engine (type, size, induction):  Chevy 4.3, EFI>> Tranny:  NV 4500>> Transfer Case(s):  Double Marlin with 4.70 gears>> Adapters (if any):>> Front Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio):  Dana 44, ARB, 5.29>> Rear Axle (type, TAD, gear ratio):  Dana 60, ARB, 5.29>> Particular reasons for your choices?  Strength and crawl ration,
 tired of
 bouncing and breaking.
 Pretty much sums it up, doesn't it?  I personally would change the
 Marlin with dual 4.70's to a Marlin with 1 4.70 case - gives a better
 range of ratio's in my opinion.  Besides, there's really nothing in
 MN that would require a 350+ crawl ratio...  The only real change
 that I'd make would be to use Ford 9" axles instead of the Dana's -
 make the rear a full floater with Wilwood Disc's and make them both
 3" wider than stock (same with as the IFS axles) - just like 'em
 better.  I'd also make mine a shortbox with an extra cab  body and
 shorty box.
 Sorry Jay, just don't think that I could stay under the price you
 set...  I hate when money limits my dreams.
 _______________________________________
 Brian K. Gallus
 Network Administrator
 Dynamark, Inc.
 BrianGallus@Dynamark.com
 _______________________________________
 ------------------------------
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