Toy4x4 Digest          Mon, 28 Apr 97 00:30:02 (HST)  Volume 1 : Issue 153
 Today's Topics:
 22re fuel pump questions (4 msgs)
 Aftermarket computer..was Re: EFI to Carb. swap
 axle wrap
 Carb to EFI Swap
 Clutch pedal pressure.
 Diff Breather
 EFI to Carb. swap
 motor done
 Questions about Toyota Trucks
 Rancho shock catalog
 Secondary circuit not working on 20R carbureter
 Spark Plugs on 96 Tacoma (2 msgs)
 Tacoma stuff
 Traction/Torque Rods
 Trailmaster IFS lift (4 msgs)
 unsubscribe
 Unsubsribe
 Water pump replacement
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
 ---   Toyota 4x4 Mailing List  (Toy4x4)   ---
 ** Sponsored by OFF-ROAD.com, The Off-Road Center of the 'Net! **
 **      Visit our WWW Page -- "http://www.off-road.com"        **
 **          TLCA Web Page -- "http://www.tlca.org"             **
 To post to list:
 Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Administrative matters (sign up, unsubscribe, mail problems, etc):
 Toy4x4-request@tlca.org
 Digest back issues are available at:
 http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toy4x4/toy4x4_digest.html
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 22:08:29 -0400 (EDT)
 From: BCSTOY@aol.com
 Subject: 22re fuel pump questions
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-04-27 18:08:46 EDT, you write:
<<1986 22RE electric fuel pump- when you turn on the key should you hear the
 pump begin working or does it only come on when the engine is turning over?>> No, the only way you can hear it runing is if you turn the key on and with a
 piece
 of wire join both terminals of a brown rectagle connector located by the air
 filter, then go to the tank you will hear it runing.
 I think I mentioned to you about the possibility of having rust somewhere in
 your
 fuel system you need to check for that and then the diagnosis can be moved to
 the next step.
 You need to try an injector cleaner made by 3m and sold by car quest it hooks
 directly into the fuel line if that makes the truck start easily then you
 know that
 you problem is in the tank, if the problem remains with the engine runing out
 the
 can then you know that your problem could be in the injectors.
 F. Ornelas
 87 4x4 on the wrks
 86 4x4
 85 4x4
 83 4x4
 82 4x4
 85 4runner
 86 2wd on the works
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 23:00:08 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: 22re fuel pump questions
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-04-27 22:42:32 EDT, you write:> F. Ornelas>  87 4x4 on the wrks>  86 4x4>  85 4x4>  83 4x4>  82 4x4>  85 4runner>  86 2wd on the works> And I thought I had a Toy problem...  :)
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 10:33:58 -0600
 From: Tony Bartlett  Subject: 22re fuel pump questions
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 If you want to check for a leaky injector hook up a fuel pressure gauge
 (I think the easiest spot is the banjo fitting for the cold start
 injector).  turn on the fuel pump (I think you can jumper one of the
 connectors on the left fender, my manual is not in front of me).  Then
 pinch off the return line (from the pressure regulator, on the flex
 hose) and turn off the fuel pump.  If your fuel pressure drops then you
 either have a bad injector or a bad one way valve in you pump.  Then
 turn on the fuel pump again and pinch off the return and supply lines.
 turn off the fuel pump.  If pressure drops, you should have a leaky
 injector.  If the pressure holds then you should have a bad check valve
 in the pump.
 Finding out what injector is bad I would need some help(Jim).  I do not
 know if there is an easy way besides removing the fuel rail.
 You might have a shop (or yourself if you have the equipment) do an
 injector cleaning that might free up any particles holding an injector
 open.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 22:49:40 -0700
 From: James Brink  Subject: 22re fuel pump questions
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 The fuel pump is activated only when the air flow meter senses air flow,
 therefore you will not hear the pump energize when the key is turned.
 More likely than a leaky injector, I would suspect a bad fuel pressure
 regulator. This is easy to check. With the engine off, pull the vacuum
 hose off of the regulator (located under the upper intake chamber near
 the rear of cyl. head). If there is fuel present, the diaphram is bad
 possibly causing pressure leakdown. Another case could be a bad check
 valve in the pump itself requiring outright pump replacement.
 To preceisely check for a leaky injector requires a lab scope but a
 simple check can be done by disconnecting each injector and checking for
 a considerable drop in RPM (a good test-type tachometer helps). If the
 RPM change is low, the injector(s) may be allowing fuel to leak past
 the needle valve or plunger. These are moving parts and can, no, make
 that will, wear out over time.
 If the cold-start injector is either stuck closed or open, or the
 injector time switch is bad, starting the truck cold or hot can be
 difficult. These components fail often on high mileage vehicles. They
 can also cause emssions and drivabilty problems.
 Hope I could help.
 - --Jim
 - --
 Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
 brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
 Stock 4.10 gears
 Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 18:56:21 -0500
 From: Steve Capuano  Subject: Aftermarket computer..was Re: EFI to Carb. swap
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>Dont plug the vent line! it will blow out everywhere!>I think you'll be sorry after the swap. EFI is tuneable..... just use an>aftermarket computer. My friend is dumping his sidedrafts, and going back to>EFI.>> Where can a tuneable aftermarket computer be found and any one have an
 approx. price for one??
 Steve Capuano
 capuano@hypercon.com
 NRA lifetime member
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:12:31 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: axle wrap
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-04-27 20:37:28 EDT, you write:> I have a procomp 4" lift on my '87 4Runner.  I think the Pro-comps and>  the trail masters are exactly the same. I know a guy who has a procomp>  and we can't find the difference. Any way the lift was real easy to>  install it took we a little over a day and I am by no means a major>  mechanic. My only dislike  is the axle wrap I get but my frind is>  building me a torque rod.>  Ryan Bascom
 I was having a big problem with axle wrap, and I attributed it to the blocks
 on the rear of my truck. When I finally put U joints in the rear shaft, I
 found something interesting.  The joint had no play and felt tight.  I got
 the lower one out and found that on of the caps had NO needle bearings left,
 only powder. Well, I replaced them and guess what?  almost no axle wrap.  I
 don't know if that is why, but it is much better.
 Now, is it possible this helped the wrap?  Is there a way to make sure all
 the caps get lubed?  I lube the joints all the time, so that is not the
 reason mine failed.  Any suggestions?
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:45:08 -0400 (EDT)
 From: BCSTOY@aol.com
 Subject: Carb to EFI Swap
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Moses Ludel's Toyota Truck Owner's Bible also has several pages on a 22R-22RE
 swap...
 What kind of book is this I never heard of it.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:56:58 -0400 (EDT)
 From: BCSTOY@aol.com
 Subject: Clutch pedal pressure.
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-04-27 01:22:37 EDT, you write:
<> I suspect that those chunks are probably traces of ruber seals coming out of
 the slave cylinder or the clutch master cyl. They could be traces of rust
 too.
 Remember just for safety you must replace both the master cyl and the slave
 and the master cyl must be bled after installation to get the air out.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 18:59:52 EDT
 From: matt877@juno.com (Matthew C Chapin)
 Subject: Diff Breather
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org>any Ideas aabout how to clamp/attach it more securely Subject: EFI to Carb. swap
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Jughead wrote:>> I'm getting rid of my EFI for a carb. and have a couple of questions.>> I'm pulling out (permanently) the charcoal canister (EVAP) now and was> wondering what I should do to the line from the canister to the gas> tank.  Should I plug it or put a small vent filter on it?  I wasn't sure> if the tank had another way of venting pos. pressure.  If it does have> another vent I was thinking of using this line for a second return line.>> I bought a Mallory fuel press. regulator so I could keep the stock fuel> pump and regulate it down to 3-6 psi.  In the instructions for this unit> it says to have a return line of equal or greater diameter than the feed> line from the pump.  Since I'm regulating the pressure down so far (3-6> psi), I was thinking about putting a splitter and two lines on the> return end of the regulator, hooking one line to the stock return line,> and the other to the line from the charcoal canister to the tank.  If> this is possible it would keep me from running a larger line to the> tank.  What are your thoughts on this idea?>> Jughead
 Jughead,
 I have a Mallory 110 pump and bypass regulator left over from my
 Sammi, I know for a fact that you need a return line at LEAST equal to
 the supply in order for the regulator to work. I found this out the hard
 way, with a pump internally bypassed at 7 psi. I don't know what volume
 the factory pump is capable of, but I know it runs at something like 40
 psi so I highly recommend a new return line (I know, $$$$!) at least a
 - -6 or equivalent. Besides, I just read that other post about the vent
 line, you definitely don't want to plug that! ALL the newer cars are
 vented thru the charcoal cannister nowadays to keep those nasty vapors
 out of the atmosphere. Good luck, keep us posted on your progress.
 Butch Stiles
 rokitman@erols.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:42:21 -0400 (EDT)
 From: BCSTOY@aol.com
 Subject: motor done
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Where did you have your machine work done, to me the critical part of a top
 of
 the line rebuild is a high quality machine shop. That was the main reason for
 me to stay away from rebuilds since my early days in this trade.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 28 Apr 97 06:29:27 UT
 From: "Matthew Farr"  Subject: Questions about Toyota Trucks
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hi there!
 A few weeks ago I rolled my 1975 Land Cruiser FJ40.  It was my daily driver.
 While it will probably live again, I need a daily driver now.  I was thinking
 that I might buy a used Toyota 4x4 truck.
 I have many questions because I don't have any experience with Toyota trucks
 other that Land Cruisers.  If you wouldn't mind, e-mail me with whatever
 information you can, or post to the list if this isn't too annoying.  My
 e-mail is MATTFARR@aol.com
 Here are my questions:
 1. Are there certain years that are most desirable?
 2. Are there any years that I should avoid?
 3. Was the 22R engine in all Toyota trucks (4 cyl)?
 4. Are they still using the 22R?
 5. What came stock? (PS, PB, A/C)
 6. What was optional?
 7. What kind of gas mileage can I expect?
 8. Does a 4 cyl. engine have enough muscle to go wheelin'? (I'm not trying to
 be insulting here -- I just thought I would ask the question...)
 9. How bad do these trucks rust, and where should I look for the rust? (this
 is a key Land Cruiser question, y'know!)
 10. What does it mean when the ads say it's a 4x2 truck, rather than a 4x4
 truck?  Is this just an advertising gimmick for a regular 2WD truck?
 11. I probably will want to get a cap for the bed so I can lock stuff up, etc.
 How hard is it to find a new cap for an older truck?
 12. If the ad says it has a rusty bed, is the bed doomed?  Should I avoid
 these trucks at all costs?
 13.  Should I avoid trucks with 80,000+ miles?  This may seem like a stupid
 question, but it seems like there are a lot of high mileage vehicles for sale
 out there.
 14.  Final question:  If I want a truck with 4x4, A/C, PS, PB, what should I
 expect to pay?
 Thanks for all the advice!
 Matt Farr
 membership officer
 Windy City Land Cruisers
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:52:09 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: Rancho shock catalog
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I will ask again.  Could someone please tell me where I can get a Ranco
 catalog for custom shocks?
 Thanks
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 21:52:48 -0400 (EDT)
 From: BCSTOY@aol.com
 Subject: Secondary circuit not working on 20R carbureter
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-04-26 23:40:56 EDT, you write:
<> My advice to you is to go with the number of bearing balls that the carb
 already
 had and the size and where they fit matters. They are forced up either by
 engine vacum or by gas flow.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 22:39:11 -0500
 From: Steve Capuano  Subject: Spark Plugs on 96 Tacoma
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Sat. I decided to change my plugs and found some very interesting cannon
 fodder.
 I had 3 NGK and 3 Nippondenso plugs. Yup 3 of one brand and 3 of another.
 I am completely perplexed, why would Toyota do this???
 Anyway, the truck feels better and the old ones were due to be changed out
 at 20K from the looks of them.
 Steve Capuano
 capuano@hypercon.com
 NRA lifetime member
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 22:54:03 -0700
 From: James Brink  Subject: Spark Plugs on 96 Tacoma
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Just a case of whats in the parts bin at the time of engine assembly.
 Both plug MFG.s are of the same specification.
 - --
 Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
 brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
 Stock 4.10 gears
 Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 18:26:38 -0400 (EDT)
 From: CaldwlCESL@aol.com
 Subject: Tacoma stuff
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Hey Dan,
 I've been meaning to drop a note to say that I am glad to see you on this
 list. As I had told you the other day on the phone, I have been going through
 the back issues of this digest to seek out any info on Tacomas. I try not to
 use the term Taco's since I am an area manager for a Taco Bell franchise.
 Especially since all one has to do is add an "n" on the end of Tacoma and
 you'd have "Taco man". Whooo!!!
 I have to say that I have found some useful info even though the Tacoma
 entries are not as common. It's especially great to see opinions of products
 that are in use as I would use them.
 Later,
 Chris Caldwell
 New E-mail Address - caldwell@vol.com
 (95.5 Tacoma 4x4 V6, TJM Bullbar, K&N, soon a Lock-right)
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 22:28:41 EDT
 From: denmother4wd@juno.com (Kimberley A Johnson)
 Subject: Traction/Torque Rods
 To: nickkrest@batnet.com
 Nick, I think you missed the point. MY POINT WAS (MY OPINION THAT IS) it
 doesnt matter what make/model you buy, remember all the lovely bickering
 about Toyota vs Ford vs Chevy (the list is endless) everyone has a
 different idea about how a truck/SUV should 4 wheel -its what the owner
 chooses to modify and EITHER PURCHASE THE PARTS OR MANUFACTURE IT this it
 what determines how well it performs. Besides my opinion is my own, we
 have our own opinion about how to modify a vehicle based on OUR OWN
 expectations and dont always find the PRE MANUFACTURED parts to
 accomodate those expectations, since we have the ability to make our own
 modifications- we do, and dont slam either independent manufacturers or
 individuals who chose to build their 4x4 the way THEY choose. This is
 America.
 ps. thanks jack & butch
 Remember it's what you build, not what kind of vehicle you buy.   TLCA
 Member #1794.
 PNW4WDA mbr.  Northern Toys 4WD Club  & Rain Country Land Cruisers
 Kim & Terry Johnson- DenMother4wd@juno.com
 On Wed, 23 Apr 1997 08:55:17 -0700 nickkrest@batnet.com (Nick Krest)
 writes:>Kim Johnson  wrote (as part of her .sig file):>>        "Remember it's what you build, not what you buy.">>I have to disagree. The question we first ask ourselves when building>a>car, bike, etc., is:>>        "Is someone already making this part?">>If the answer to question #1 is yes, then we ask ourselves:>>        "Is it cheaper (time, materials, hassle) to buy it or build>it?">>If someone has gone to all the trouble to science out a part or kit,>manufacture it to acceptable (to us) specs and QC, and priced it>reasonably, I see no reason to fab something up from scratch,>especially if>it involves lots of test-fitting. Make no mistake, we have the>materials,>machinery, and know-how, but time is money (and money is money).>>If we were to take the "build, not buy" motto to an extreme, this>wouldn't>be a Toyota list; it would be an all-custom list, with everyone>fabbing up>their own motors from billet stock; custom-molding their own tires,>upholstering their own interiors, and building the circuits and wiring>harnesses from scratch!>>Just my two cents.>> - Nick>>> ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 17:13:45 -0700
 From: "Todd and Terry"  Subject: Trailmaster IFS lift
 To:  Well, here's the deal.  I have an opportunity to get a 4" Trailmaster IFS
 lift for my 87 pickup.  The guy wanting to get rid of it wants to swap me
 for the items needed to bring his truck back to stock height (shocks, rear
 ubolts, steering arm, idler arms, bumpstops).  He will give me all the lift
 brackets, rear blocks (yuck), steering components and shocks.
 My questions are:  Does anybody on the list use a Trailmaster lift?  Pros
 and cons?
 Looks pretty easy to install, is it?  ( I've done clutches, head gaskets,
 timing chains, motor swaps, lockers, etc.)  Opinion?  good move or bad
 move?
 Thanks
 Todd
 87 Toyota 4X4, EZ Lockers F/R, 30-11.50-15 TSL SX's, 15X8 AR 26's,
 RS 5000's, Ramsey front bumper, Custom Nerfs, Custom rear bumper,
 Custom body by Sierra Nevada.
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 08:34:37 -0400
 From: Bob Bascom  Subject: Trailmaster IFS lift
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 I have a procomp 4" lift on my '87 4Runner.  I think the Pro-comps and
 the trail masters are exactly the same. I know a guy who has a procomp
 and we can't find the difference. Any way the lift was real easy to
 install it took we a little over a day and I am by no means a major
 mechanic. My only dislike  is the axle wrap I get but my frind is
 building me a torque rod. Watch the sway bar drop brackets when i pus
 the truck in fourwheel drive after putting in the lift it beat the !@#@#
 out of the zirq fitting on the drive shaft so I had to lower the shart a
 little more using a couple of washers.  Hope that helped sorry about the
 length.
 Ryan Bascom
 bascom@erols.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 20:56:27 -0400 (EDT)
 From: DRM033@aol.com
 Subject: Trailmaster IFS lift
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 In a message dated 97-04-27 20:17:32 EDT, you write:>>  Well, here's the deal.  I have an opportunity to get a 4" Trailmaster IFS>  lift for my 87 pickup.  The guy wanting to get rid of it wants to swap me>  for the items needed to bring his truck back to stock height (shocks, rear>  ubolts, steering arm, idler arms, bumpstops).  He will give me all the
 lift>  brackets, rear blocks (yuck), steering components and shocks.>  My questions are:  Does anybody on the list use a Trailmaster lift?  Pros>  and cons?>  Looks pretty easy to install, is it?  ( I've done clutches, head gaskets,>  timing chains, motor swaps, lockers, etc.)  Opinion?  good move or bad>  move?>>  					Thanks>  					Todd>  87 Toyota 4X4, EZ Lockers F/R, 30-11.50-15 TSL SX's, 15X8 AR 26's,>  RS 5000's, Ramsey front bumper, Custom Nerfs, Custom rear bumper,>  Custom body by Sierra Nevada.> I have the ProComp, but it should not be too different.  You should plan on a
 FULL day minimum.  It will probably take you all of a weekend.  Get a friend
 or two to help you "whitewash the fence".  Why don't you call the company and
 they will probably mail/fax you the complete instructions.  I would not
 attempt to install it without reading them first, Unless you feel real
 adventurous.  It can be done without the destructions, but it will be a big
 hassle.
 David
 DRM033@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 20:12:54 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Jonathan Albrecht  Subject: Trailmaster IFS lift
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org> Well, here's the deal.  I have an opportunity to get a 4" Trailmaster IFS> lift for my 87 pickup.  The guy wanting to get rid of it wants to swap me> for the items needed to bring his truck back to stock height (shocks, rear> ubolts, steering arm, idler arms, bumpstops).  He will give me all the lift
 Actually, the trailmaster kit re-uses the stock steering and idler arms.
 It just uses a different bracket at the knuckle, so in effect everything
 above the diff (upper a-arm, all steering components) are left alone.
 Honestly lifts like this are kinda like a big complicated block
 lift, though I think you may gain at least an extra inch or so of
 travel, because at least on our Superlift kit (very similar design), the
 bump stop extenions were not a full 4" longer, even though the drop down
 brackets were more like 5" lower (for a suposedly 4" lift kit, and no,
 we never did measure it to see how much lift it really gave).
 What you will need to give him, are your steering knuckle adapter things
 (that the upper a-arm and steering linkages attach too), your u-bolts,
 shocks, and...that's about it.  Oh yeah, I should probably say that you
 should never re-use u-bolts (even though I always have, YMMV).> brackets, rear blocks (yuck), steering components and shocks.> My questions are:  Does anybody on the list use a Trailmaster lift?  Pros> and cons?
 I don't own one, I talked to someone who's really into Toyota's, and he
 swears that it's heavier duty than the pro-comp stage I--which I've
 never heard anything bad about.  I'm hoping to go for a Rancho 3"
 because it give more travel, has more room for stock rims (a trailmaster
 *might* have room for stock rims, but it's very tight), and gives a
 lower center of gravity.> Looks pretty easy to install, is it?  ( I've done clutches, head gaskets,> timing chains, motor swaps, lockers, etc.)  Opinion?  good move or bad> move?
 Yeah, sounds like you can do it.  Make sure you have a good jack or two,
 a couple of good tall jack stands.  You will need to press out the
 steering ball joints, and upper A arm ball joints.  A pickle fork
 wouldn't budge ours, but sometimes it's enough.  A pitman arm puller
 works great for the upper A-arm ball joint.
 Oh, you will also need to trim off or bend out the corner of the old
 place that the front A-arm brace used to bolt up to (it hits the diff).
 You might also need to trim your bumpstops for shock clearance too, so
 be sure to check that out before you go 4xing.
 Good luck,
 __
 Jonathan Albrecht
 albr9619@uidaho.edu
 http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 00:55:32 -0400 (EDT)
 From: AUDIBLEAC@aol.com
 Subject: unsubscribe
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Please remove this address from future mailings.
 Thanks,
 audibleac@aol.com
 ------------------------------
 Date: Mon, 28 Apr 97 09:17:33 +0100
 From: "jm Theobald"  Subject: Unsubsribe
 To: toy4x4@tlca.org
 Unsubscribe jm.Theobald@x400.icl.co.uk
 ------------------------------
 Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 23:03:00 -0700
 From: James Brink  Subject: Water pump replacement
 To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
 Gratz wrote:>> I am replacing my timing belt soon on my '89 V6, I will be replacing the> water pump also. Any recommendations on either OEM (toyota) or after> market brand replacement part.Good or bad . TIA.> Jon G.
 Of course, I prefer the OEM parts (bias, parts envy???). Be sure to
 replace your tensioner spring ($4.00 part) and inspect the tensioner
 pulley, #2 idler pulley (one on top), crankshaft and cam oil seals. The
 thermostat is down there too. Now is also a good time to replace the
 accessory drive belts. Some people have had problems bleeding the air
 out of their cooling systems after this procedure due to the low
 placement of the t-stat. A trick I use is to remove the top rad. hose on
 the radiator end and fill the cooling system as full as possible through
 the hose. When the engine is filled, reinstall the hose. I then top-off
 the radiator. On the V6's, it helps to run the motor until it reaches
 norm. operating temp. and shut off the motor. Wait for the engine to
 cool and recheck the coolant level. You may have to do this 1 or 2 times
 to completely purge the air from the system.
 Good Luck.
 - --
 Jim Brink				1986 Standard Bed 4X4/22R
 Toyota/ASE Certified Technician		135,000 Miles
 brinkjm@earthlink.net			32" BFG All-Terrain T/As
 Stock 4.10 gears
 Rear Lock-Right (TRD)
 ------------------------------
 The views expressed in Toy4x4 are those of the individual authors only.
 Be sure to check out the OFFROAD MAILING LIST.
 Subscription requests can be sent to: offroad-request@off-road.com
 End of Toy4x4 Digest
 ******************************