Toy4x4 Digest Sun, 27 Apr 97 12:30:03 (HST) Volume 1 : Issue 152
Today's Topics:
22re fuel pump questions
aftermarket source (2 msgs)
Bio
building YOUR OWN truck
EFI to Carb. swap (2 msgs)
Replacing fluids
Toy4x4 Digest V1 #151
Water pump replacement
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Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 18:04:18 -0400
From: "T. Ryan" Subject: 22re fuel pump questions
To: "Toy ota" Can anyone answer this one:
1986 22RE electric fuel pump- when you turn on the key should you hear the
pump begin working or does it only come on when the engine is turning over?
Also wwould a leaky injector cause the 22re to start hard as if flooded and
account for a loss of fuel pressure while the truck is sitting(off)? If so
how can i test the injectors individually or determine which injector is
leaking? The truck has about 250k mile and has the original injectors.
Many Thanks
Tom Ryan, Bristol CT, 84 4runner , 86 SR5 xtra cab 4wd
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 09:36:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Purplizard@aol.com
Subject: aftermarket source
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
jonathan,
i usually use Downey or NWOR, but a local guy (pennsylvania) has started a
mailorder parts supply which has some great stuff. Its called K-Speed, and he
sells rancho, PIAA lights, bumpers/bash guards, Hi-Lift jacks, pullers, etc,
the heaviest duty snatch straps and tow hooks i've ever seen, like for
bulldozers and construction crews. plus fancy stuff like alcoa wheels and
momo accesories. a lot of his specialty is more towards high end off road,
like the new land cruiser customers, but he relates to us low buck builders
also. he can get anything you want and is real knowledgeable, although he is
a Nissan man.
anyway, i've been happy dealing with him: K-Speed 814-237-8333 Chuck Kurtz.
you're closer to the left coast, but ups is the great equalizer.
mike
PS: ship to alaska? probably cheaper to find a college kid to drive it there
for you, if you trust them.
>Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 17:38:09 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Jonathan Albrecht >Subject: where to get this stuff??
>To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
>
>Ok, I've got three more weeks down here in the Washington/Idaho area,
>and I need to get some stuff. I'm hoping that a few of you might have
>some good ideas where to go or where to order from. Here's what we need>
>
>A set of 3rd members for an IFS truck, with 5.29's.
>A set of bushwacker (not cutout) flares
>Rancho 3" suspension lift, with rs9000's, minus rear add-a-leaves.
>2 set's of Skyjacker 4" rear springs
>A pair of chrome 150 watt KC's
>
>..And a 1984-1988 short bed with no rust, preferably *not* stakeside (or
>whatever they call that, with the tie downs and stuff). Any ideas about
>the best way to ship one of those up to Alaska?
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 12:32:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jonathan Albrecht Subject: aftermarket source
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On Sun, 27 Apr 1997 Purplizard@aol.com wrote:
> PS: ship to alaska? probably cheaper to find a college kid to drive it
> there for you, if you trust them.
I wrote:
> >Ok, I've got three more weeks down here in the Washington/Idaho area,
> >and I need to get some stuff. I'm hoping that a few of you might
> > have some good ideas where to go or where to order from. Here's
> >what we need
> >
> >..And a 1984-1988 short bed with no rust, preferably *not* stakeside
> >(or whatever they call that, with the tie downs and stuff). Any
> >ideas about the best way to ship one of those up to Alaska?
Whoops, that didn't come out right. I just need a rust free 6' bed to
fit a 1986 truck.
__
Jonathan Albrecht
albr9619@uidaho.edu
http://www.uidaho.edu/~albr9619/
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 15:23:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Wsk2@aol.com
Subject: Bio
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
Bill Kilgore
Johnson City, TN
USA
Wsk2@aol.com
We have a Camry(96) but I want a 94 4RUNNER very badly
N
15
STUDENT...I want to join the local SKI PATOL at age 16
I'm working with the ladies as we speek
Looking and drooling aver 4RUNNERS, SKIING, SKIING, SKIING, and GIRLS
I stumbled upon with great luck
CAR: I like our Camry a lot and I like driving it(It has some KICK to it but
not a whole
lot.)
SELF: I am a sraight up SKIER who loves LADIES and 4RUNNERS
thanks for all the e-mail.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 10:34:30 -0600
From: "Steve and Carole" Subject: building YOUR OWN truck
To: "Toyota Info TLCA" Jack Wrote:
Nick lad, I think you missed the point completely. Without getting into a
super lengthy explanation here, the bottom line is: If you build the
truck, with custom parts or store bought, then it's your truck. If you
purchase the truck already modified, then you are the owner, but it's
someone else's truck. Someone else conceived it, planned it out, sweated
over it etc etc. It will be their truck until someone takes it even
further. They guy with the bucks has his name on the registration, but can
take no credit for it.
It's what you build, not what you buy.
Very well said, Many people will buy a truck that is already built up,
however they don't know the mechanics of HOW it was built up and what it
took to get that way. I have learned so many lessons in building my own
4Runner, should something on it break one day, I will know exactly why it
broke and how to fix it. There is definitely something to be said about
putting your own sweat and bloody knuckles into a truck.
On another note, my driveline vibrations have been cured with the addition
of a doulbe-cardan joint on the top end of a new drive shaft. The problem,
very loud chattering when the driveshaft was allowed to float. Between
acceleration and deceleration or while maintaining speed the driveline
would get really loud. The actual cause was the u-joint angles were too
excessive, 13 degrees. A new shaft with a double cardan joint and a long
travel slip yoke for about $295 has made all the difference in the world.
I'm almost ready for the RUBITION!!!!!!!!!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 17:43:17 -0400
From: Jughead Subject: EFI to Carb. swap
To: toy4x4@tlca.org
I'm getting rid of my EFI for a carb. and have a couple of questions.
I'm pulling out (permanently) the charcoal canister (EVAP) now and was
wondering what I should do to the line from the canister to the gas
tank. Should I plug it or put a small vent filter on it? I wasn't sure
if the tank had another way of venting pos. pressure. If it does have
another vent I was thinking of using this line for a second return line.
I bought a Mallory fuel press. regulator so I could keep the stock fuel
pump and regulate it down to 3-6 psi. In the instructions for this unit
it says to have a return line of equal or greater diameter than the feed
line from the pump. Since I'm regulating the pressure down so far (3-6
psi), I was thinking about putting a splitter and two lines on the
return end of the regulator, hooking one line to the stock return line,
and the other to the line from the charcoal canister to the tank. If
this is possible it would keep me from running a larger line to the
tank. What are your thoughts on this idea?
Jughead
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
James Owens '92 Std. Cab 4x4 w/22RE & 5spd.
(Jughead@141.com) Pro-Comp Stage II 4" Suspension
Machinist 5.71 w/ Det. Locker & True-trac
Williston,Fla. 36x12.5x15 Super Swampers
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 17:42:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Spinnetti@aol.com
Subject: EFI to Carb. swap
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
In a message dated 4/27/97 4:39:01 PM, you wrote:
>I'm getting rid of my EFI for a carb. and have a couple of questions.
>
>I'm pulling out (permanently) the charcoal canister (EVAP) now and was
>wondering what I should do to the line from the canister to the gas
>tank. Should I plug it or put a small vent filter on it? I wasn't sure
>if the tank had another way of venting pos. pressure. If it does have
>another vent I was thinking of using this line for a second return line.
>
>I bought a Mallory fuel press. regulator so I could keep the stock fuel
>pump and regulate it down to 3-6 psi. In the instructions for this unit
>it says to have a return line of equal or greater diameter than the feed
>line from the pump. Since I'm regulating the pressure down so far (3-6
>psi), I was thinking about putting a splitter and two lines on the
>return end of the regulator, hooking one line to the stock return line,
>and the other to the line from the charcoal canister to the tank. If
>this is possible it would keep me from running a larger line to the
>tank. What are your thoughts on this idea?
Dont plug the vent line! it will blow out everywhere!
I think you'll be sorry after the swap. EFI is tuneable..... just use an
aftermarket computer. My friend is dumping his sidedrafts, and going back to
EFI.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 07:25:11 -0400
From: Ed Ruf Subject: Replacing fluids
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
On 07:45 PM 4/26/97 -0700, Nick Krest wrote:
>Ed Ruf wrote:
>
> "Be careful, generalizing this is a fallacy
> in regard to hydrodynamic lubrication...."
>
>I KNEW that was gonna get me into trouble there. I didn't really look long
>and hard at my phrasing before I posted that. In truth, I DID look long and
>hard for a good synthetic gear oil. We talked to a lot of people, racers,
>engineers, shop owners, schmoes, etc., and made our decision carefully.
>It's in an axle with a Detroit Locker that sees a lot of extended use and
>high speeds in the desert, hence this is a high-heat, high-stress
>application. I wasn't trying to imply that a higher viscosity was going to
>keep metal further away from metal, but that's how it must have come out.
Nick,
Sorry if I've caused trouble. I forgot to add my own caveat. From your
original message it WAS clear to ME that your aplication called for it. I
just wanted to make the point the generalization doesn't hold true, i, for
your desert hauls it's required, but say if one only does this every other
month then I'd be worried about having the right viscosity when the lube
isn't up at the higher temps. Same goes for running heavier weight motor
oil, just for the added benefit. We ran 50 wt Amzoil in the SCCA car at R&E
Racing, because races in the summer at Willow Springs see temps of an easy
125F in the shade. But, that doesn't mean we ran the same weight in the
hauler.
Being new to the list, I'm not familiar with the scope and everyone's
background, so I'll tend to err on the conservative side.
Ed
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 11:01:39 -0800
From: "CONRAD" Subject: Toy4x4 Digest V1 #151
To: > Date: Sat, 26 Apr 1997 17:12:26 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Jonathan Albrecht > Subject: LC Engineering header
> Oh, and about the smog legal stuff, do they just need to certify the
> current design, or are they making a new (different) smog legal header?
> Jonathan Albrecht
I think they are just certifying the current design, not positive. If you
call them they will put you on a list, and let you know as soon as they get
the certification. I am waiting for that call so I can buy one.
Now then, what part of Alaska are you heading to? For some reason it seems
to me you're headed to Juneau. Is that correct? You know the weather and
4-wheeling are much better up here near Fairbanks!!
jc
Jack Conrad, BIG TOY, TLCA # 3851
conrad@mosquitonet.com, North Pole, AK
84 FJ-60, coils over leaf-over, 350,38s, ARB
92 Extra-Cab, coils over leafs, 5.29s, ARB, 35s
Land Cruiser, don't leave the pavement without one!!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Apr 1997 14:57:04 -0400
From: Gratz Subject: Water pump replacement
To: Toy4x4@tlca.org
I am replacing my timing belt soon on my '89 V6, I will be replacing the
water pump also. Any recommendations on either OEM (toyota) or after
market brand replacement part.Good or bad . TIA.
Jon G.
------------------------------
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